Grand Prismatic and Other Sights

Up before the break of day so we can capture the first light to fall upon the Upper Geyser Basin. The sky is turning pink and pale blue before I’m able to capture a worthy photo to celebrate the return of the sun.

Our original plan to hike the Lone Star Trail was nixed so we could linger yet again right here with all these beautiful sights we never tire of seeing.

We’ll end up spending nearly three hours in astonishment meandering these trails refamiliarizing ourselves with features we feel we should know by now but still feel just as new to our senses as they did seven years ago on our first visit.

The building blocks are essentially all the same: water, minerals, heat, and gases, but these things visible to our senses manifest in so many ways that each unique spring, geyser, and the various other windows into the world below our feet demonstrates how little of reality is actually seen by us.

But we walk along in our daily life staring blankly at the artifice we’ve contributed to and we no longer are able to see the chaos of nature that exists around us every moment of every day. We are lulled into a routine, and that likely holds true for those who work in places like Yellowstone, as it seems to be human nature to take for granted the familiar.

You are an ant approaching a white-topped mountain that, upon the approach of the peak, you realize is not snow but calcium. At the crest, you look out across a vast sea steaming in the distance; should you fall in, you will instantly die in the scalding water. Love is similar in that you are an ant approaching the periphery of another person; you see their beauty, but in getting to know them, you find a depth you hadn’t realized before. Their potential stretches to the furthest point on the horizon, but what’s yet to emerge from them is still buried deep within. You’ll have to wait around and visit countless times before you realize they may be infinite, but are you too so infinite that you can continue to absorb what they have to offer?

The character of Earth changes every moment, with every step and shift in shadows, the thing once familiar has become something different. Did you know, did you really know that about yourself and those around you?

Why is it so effortless to see the beauty of those external things we gaze upon from the distance? The play of elements we see are all contained in this gas hovering above the surface of the earth; they, too, are internal elements of a stage we are looking into. They exist in the depths of our imagination as much as on the surface of reality, as our mind’s eye constructs the meaning of what we sense within our infinitely small heads. Inside these skulls, we work with hearts and souls to picture all things great and small that are only outside of us because of our skills of giving meaning to abstractions.

And now we reach that critical juncture where a thread must be broken as I’ve followed things as far as I can. A branch in the path is taken where things will sound and appear different, if not pictorially, then narratively, as though I may want to explore the vastness of linguistic travels; I only have an inventory of those words and ideas that I’ve allowed in. If measured in the accumulation of experiential content, I’m certainly wealthier in that department, but I cannot disgorge trees and mountains upon the paper for you to read.

Blogging here allows me my own geyser-like moments where the pressure below the surface accumulates until it explodes out into the atmosphere. There’s no idea where the fragments of thoughts will travel as they punch through, even when I attempt to guide them up and outward; momentum has a way of dictating enough chaos that sometimes the sight is beautiful, exquisite even, and then at other times they just sputter barely above the surface of awareness.

Choosing which images accompany a blog entry is never really easy. Starting this day with more than 450 photos that were taken with the hopes of being the greatest reminders ever captured, not all of them turned out that way. So, I must winnow them down to a manageable number. This particular photo Caroline chose to leave out, but it was one of my favorites and so it’s here. This scene was reduced to a monochromatic view where the reflection of our star in a thin layer of mineralized water removed most of the color that might have otherwise been present. Remove your own thin veneer of color, examine yourself for what type of light you reflect, and then ask if you are seeing the real you even then.

With the sun reflecting off this shallow pool of geyserite and calcite, a feature here at Yellowstone is created that might easily be overlooked. Not everything must have the colorful palette of the Grand Prismatic or the opulent height of the Old Faithful Geyser; even the little things deserve our recognition.

What is the musical accompaniment that should play to this bubbling of superheated water? Does it feature drums, violins, or pianos? Is it a soft voice or a bombastic rap of arrival and disappearance? Personally, I hear birds in the distance and the sporadic hiss of gas rupturing from the depths.

This is you splayed out flat. Bacterial mats, hydrological functions, pathways, things carrying information, and various decorations. You, too, are a biological entity, and while you may choose not to see it here in Yellowstone, just like the rest of our planet, we are part of an enormous living thing oblivious to the symbiotic nature of it all. We stroll atop things with egos that hold us outside of the planet that is solely responsible for our potential existence.

Our fragility stops us from diving into the boiling pit of beauty, not just that our organic being would be boiled off of our bones but metaphorically speaking too, we cannot jump into the boiling pit of knowledge as our minds would be boiled out of our sanity and so we are rendered small, petty, and often stupid. We stay safe behind the signs others have put up for us as we cannot comprehend where it’s safe to tread.

Ah, the perfect metaphor for John can be found right here in this crusty corner spouting off a bunch of hot water and gas. Nature, in this sense, is lucky as it doesn’t require words to convey the message of what it is while we humans attempt to be like nature when we put our most beautiful people forward, but isn’t that denying the intrinsic nature of what people are, the sum of their words?

And don’t think for a moment that art is not the sum of a human’s words. We could not paint without the knowledge that pigments are able to stain a surface and that we can exercise control to determine if the strokes are horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. We either mimic patterns already seen, or maybe we stumble into inspirations, but still, they are tools being utilized by a mind that has assigned a linguistic value to all parts that will be utilized to create something.

This luxury we have to go about our world outside the biological function of requiring food and shelter has allowed us to be witness to this beautiful flow found in nature and copy it so we might adorn ourselves or our dwellings with the aesthetic sights we’ve witnessed. Using technology from the earliest cameras to our current age of digital imaging, we have made those things of earth and universe portable. Instead of needing to experience nature on strictly its terms, we package it up and carry reminders with us wherever we might go.

This is Turquoise Pool at Midway Basin, but it’s not the Turquoise Pool I’ve known. I did not know Turquoise Pool because Turquoise Pool is not knowable. I’ve seen this pool before; I know I have, but then why do I not really remember it? Because, like me, it’s changing. Were its waters hotter or colder the last time we were here? Were the conditions dryer or wetter? What of the sun? The characteristics of nature are forever changing, though it may be difficult to determine just how or when they changed.

Sure, this is a slightly different viewing angle of Grand Prismatic, but I couldn’t choose between the two, so just as we stare at it for an inordinately long amount of time, why not offer the chance to see it as we do in the park where we look from multiple different spots along its bright orange shore.

Have I written this before that I don’t believe we’ve ever seen the center pool at Excelsior Geyser Crater? Maybe we have, but who cares, as this will forever be the way I saw it for the first time on this visit.

Here we are on the Fountain Paint Pot Trail, just getting lost in the park instead of starting our drive home as though one more minute, one more geyser, one more time holding hands and smiling at each other will sear the important stuff into our memories never letting them go.

Clepsydra Geyser as seen close up and zoomed in.

Clepsydra Geyser as seen from a different angle. Like the Grand Prismatic above, it’s not just seeing a thing but taking the time to see it again and again, so you might appreciate its various characteristics that you’ll only want to see yet again. The hopelessly insatiable desire to fall into beauty holds us tight, allowing the justification to go further.

Silex Spring on the way back to the car and now we’re satisfied.

Hey Reason,  it’s only 22 miles to Norris Geyser Basin, and should you never be able to return to Yellowstone, wouldn’t you want to know you saw it all on such a nice day?

The rugged moonscape of Norris is like a wholly different environment where the elegant grace found in the other basins has been stripped away. The ground is hotter here, too, making me wonder if this won’t one day be where the volcano we are walking upon today erupts.

And with this photo, we bid adieu to Yellowstone and make our way to the exit, seriously this time.

We needed to get south with no small amount of haste, so we were relegated to taking photos from the moving car, but that’s okay as it feels like we had a satisfying, immersive moment in America’s first national park. I wonder how long it will take before we return.

Scattered Light

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Most of our Yellowstone sightseeing has been on backcountry trails so far, but the allure of the geyser basins begs for us to visit, and this morning, we finally gave in. It was sunrise at Biscuit Basin when I shot this photo, and it was the scattered light pushing through the steam and the shadows created by the tree that painted this canvas.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

I took a step back and found this view just as appealing, so I thought, “Why not continue this theme?”

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Then, a step to the left created the impression of the light and sky in motion. How was I supposed to choose just one image?

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

After that brief visit to Biscuit, we headed over to Midway Geyser Basin.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Up close, we were offered an extremely steamy view of Excelsior Geyser and Grand Prismatic Spring, so steamy that I couldn’t capture a worthy photo of the Grand Prismatic, but this one of Excelsior works.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Over to Firehole Lake Drive.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Where were we again when we stood next to this stream?

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Today’s hike was the South Rim Trail that took us up and down 328 steps of the Uncle Tom’s Trail into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone for a fantastic view of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Sure, the falls are incredible but don’t forget to take a closer look at the canyon that is worthy of admiration too.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We continued on the rim trail to Artists Point and some mud pots.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We then looped back to the parking lot via a forest trail taking us past Lily Pad Lake and Clear Lake.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Passing old dormant springs along the way, we ended up in a large meadow.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The light, flowing patterns, and surface tension all worked to create this abstraction of a face that will never be seen in nature, just like this ever again.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

And then there are patterns that convey no hint of anything other than the peculiar color and shading that comes with bacteria and minerals flowing and cooling off at different points on the surface of what lay before us.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Don’t stop; just keep on going while the daylight invites you to enjoy what your eyes can find.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We gotta keep on going up the trail as we have no idea what is just around the corner.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Ah, more beautiful stuff.

Part 2,704 in the series of “Caroline Standing In Water.”

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

For a moment, I thought this small geyser might be my sunset photo as the golden light of the late day caught the eruption and steam billowing off it, but then there was this…

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

…maybe if I was better with Photoshop, I could have gotten rid of the lens flares, but when you are out taking hundreds of photos and posting so much of your travels, there’s only so much time to dedicate to these things. What’s important is that an impression made in our eyes and minds was captured and at some point in our futures, the images will resonate in such a way with us that even flawed photos will bring us back to this afternoon in Yellowstone National Park.

Mount Washburn

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Up before 6:00 to get breakfast out of the way and be on the road north so we might beat any crowds that could have the same idea we have for our day.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Trekking up the mountain was great in the early morning, except for the 1300-foot (396m) elevation gain.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Along the way, we passed a large herd of bighorn sheep that paid us absolutely no mind as we and other hikers went by within eight feet of the resting animals.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Thank our lucky stars, we made an early start on hiking Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone National Park. Not only would today be in the 90s (33c) but by afternoon, the mosquitoes, deer flies, and horse flies were unbearable. The peak of Mt Washburn is up at 10,243 feet (3122m) and offers the best view of Yellowstone and the surrounding mountain ranges, including the Grand Tetons, the Bear Tooth, and the Absaroka.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

On the way up, I was forced to take many breaks as not only the elevation took its toll, but so did my extra weight. On the way down in the afternoon, we could not stop more than once or twice due to the mosquitoes buzzing about our ears, threatening action while the flies were all business: one moment of pause and they hooked on for a mid-day snack.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This is our sixth visit to Yellowstone, and not a single corner, bend, or spot in the park is so familiar that we can overlook it.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Mammoth Hot Springs was convenient enough to drop in on, and although we were supposed to be focusing on new places, we couldn’t help but revisit the familiar.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Not two hundred feet away and everything looks different.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Not the best photo of a bear, but a bear.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

It’s all so beautiful we just have to grab more photos to drag home with us.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Around this time, we started getting bored, so we made our way back to the Old Faithful Inn, took up seats at the sports bar, and watched something featuring a ball and a bunch of men running around; just kidding, there’s no sports bar at Old Faithful Inn, we had to watch this in our room. Ah, just kidding again; there are no televisions at Yellowstone. Come to think about it and if I want to be truthful, we don’t watch sports, and we certainly didn’t get bored.

Yellowstone

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Idaho State Border

We zipped past Salt Lake City early in the morning, entering Idaho before 10:00 a.m.

Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

By 1:00 p.m., we had reached the Montana Stateline, and fifteen minutes later, we drove through the gates of the world’s first national park – Yellowstone.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

With almost 1000 miles (1564km) behind us, we are ready to start our sixth visit here. This time, we had planned to take in sites unseen on previous visits, so shortly after passing through the front gate, we stopped at the Two Ribbons Trail and took an easy 1.5-mile (2.3km) walk down a boardwalk along the Madison River.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This is the kind of nature we can get behind…

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

…this kind, not so much.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

A visit to Terrace Springs took only a few minutes.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Hello, Mrs. Elk.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

A little further north, Caroline suggested we check out the Monument Geyser Basin Trail.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Why did I agree? This short but brutal hike took us up the side of a mountain with more than 600 feet (182m) of elevation gain in less than half a mile (800m).

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We always need a visit to West Thumb…

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

…for a view of the Fishing Cone on the lake and everything else at this southern end of the park’s geysers.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Looking a bit too stormy, so we better head to our magnificent hotel.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

After we checked in at the Old Faithful Inn, it was time for a walk here on the Upper Geyser Basin.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Of course, our walk should be under a beautiful sunset.

Blue Star Geyser at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Blue Star Spring in the Lower Geyser Basin, taken during our after-dinner walk, wasn’t blue at all in the golden-orange light of the sky.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Life is good.

Jutta On The Road – Day 12

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Again, at the break of day, we are on our way into another Yellowstone adventure of exploration. I can say this with confidence all these years later because every time we’ve been in this park, it’s left indelible impressions on us regarding our time here. It’s probably a cliche to put it this way, but I don’t think we are as much into Yellowstone as Yellowstone gets into us.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

If it looks like boiling water, you’d be a fool to put your hand in to test the observation, so I’m just going to assume that these grasses and plants have learned to live on the edge of a hostile environment, though I can also accept that what I think is boiling is just escaping gas floating to the surface of this pool.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

There are plenty of obvious sights here in the park that easily suggest a great photo might be had, but to try and see what, while common, may not have been seen frequently is a challenge.

Bison in Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

And then there’s that moment when no matter how often you’ve seen a bison, a deer, or an elk, you just have to take one more photo out of fear that you won’t have seen any other wildlife during your visit so you use it to prove your visit included animals because what would a Yellowstone adventure be without the beasties?

Don’t forget the iconic photos either, preferably not one with your mother-in-law being gored by a giant sharp-horned hairy bison the park service constantly reminds people to stay clear of, but more like this one where mother and daughter pose for a photo together in front of the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

I’d really love to know how this tree came to lose whatever earth might have been below it prior to its roots having to act as legs.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Okay, so the trees have been standing in this shallow, apparently hot, highly mineralized water long enough to give the trees the appearance of wearing white ankle socks, but then why isn’t the grass white? While I can answer with a bit of quick logic that the grass grows and dies off so quickly it doesn’t have time to absorb the same chemicals the trees do, what I cannot figure out or learn from the mind of the internet is how this grass is growing in such a hostile environment in the first place.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Godzilla, is that you? Oh, it’s just my mother-in-law leaving the bathroom; just kidding, I love hanging out with Jutta, seriously.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Not Old Faithful.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Orange bacterial mat with mineral islands sporting forests for microscopic life I cannot see, this is why I come to Yellowstone.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Reflections that blur the point between sky and earth are another good reason to be here.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

Humans throw coins in fountains to have their wishes come true. While I can’t be certain, I think the marmots sneak out here when nobody is looking and throw marmot coins into this pool, hoping their wishes might also come true. If you think those are mostly just stones of the same size, you’d be wrong. I verified them as currency, and that’s that.

Yellowstone National Park Wyoming

There, did you see that? The Eye of Yellowstone winked at us in the reassurance that it was okay for us to leave as we’d be coming back again. With that, we pointed the car south and moved on.

Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming

I’d like to offer my apologies for including this photo at such a low resolution, but there were so many mountains in this shot of the Grand Teton range. I couldn’t even take this one photo and had to take countless images that were assembled as the panorama you are seeing. To have included a high-resolution version would have meant I would have had to upload one, and then anyone could have just stolen this masterpiece, claimed it as their own, and grown rich.

Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming

This looks awfully familiar, and that would be because every trip we make to the Tetons requires us to stop right here at this oxbow bend in the Snake River, which is also the same area we saw our first ever moose back in the year 2000.

Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming

More Tetons because everyone loves the Grand Teton.

Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming

Not a wolf.

We are on Highway 26 going southeast after leaving the national park via Moran Junction instead of traveling through Jackson Hole.

It might not be that great town of Jackson that everybody adores, but it sure is beautiful out here, too; plus, it’s taking us into part of Wyoming we are unfamiliar with.

Going along enjoying the rainbow of earth.

Every trip should include three or four obligatory stops at incredibly photogenic abandoned businesses and homes.

We’ve turned west on Highway 28, traveling along the Oregon Trail for a bit before cutting south again.

The Great Plains in Southern Wyoming.

Jutta On The Road – Day 11

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

The Roosevelt Gate, which could also be known as the “Gate to Heaven,” stands at the north entry to Yellowstone National Park. While the rest of the trip might have been taken at a fast pace, we have two nights in the area in order to get a good dose of the place.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

On the terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs for sunrise, such a wonderful place to catch the sun’s arrival.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We learned long ago that one of the treats of Jutta visiting us in the United States is to be found on the occasions when we can bring her back to a place she never thought she’d get to visit even once in a lifetime, such as what we’ve done taking her to the Grand Canyon time and again.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Then there’s our own curiosity following our first encounter with Yellowstone back in early 2000 when we saw the remnants of the destructive force of the big Yellowstone fire of 1988 that burned for approximately five months. Each time we return to this place, we are scouring our own memories, looking for signs of change and regrowth.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

This might not be the conventional or popular view associated with Yellowstone, but I find that unfortunate as the diversity of landscapes on offer is incredible. One can only wish to be on hand for a couple of more years to see the evolution of changes due to the seasons, water levels, cloud cover, lighting, and the rest of the environmental factors that impact the view.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

If you were to ask Caroline or me, you’d learn that we’ve never met a boiling cauldron of gaseous mud that we didn’t love, not that one gets to encounter such things on a regular basis.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Behold an evolved skin-removing device capable of snuffing out the life of those who tempt the gods of crusty edges found at the hot springs of Yellowstone.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Almost worse than someone dying in a hot spring is the damage done to the surfaces around the springs, where visitors have to witness that idiots preceded their own visit. For those who somehow don’t know, this is the Grand Prismatic Geyser.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Sure, a bison, elk, or bear might walk across this, but they live wild; we live with intention and are often capable of following rules. Heck, just to visit Yellowstone, a person most obviously has been able to maintain a job somewhere otherwise, how’d they afford to get themselves to this remote corner of America? To the best of our ability, these places shouldn’t be trampled underfoot by hordes of people neglecting their responsibility to help preserve such treasures for those who follow. And of the bear that walks across this? There will never be thousands of them per day.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We are staying at Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Cabins, obviously in a cabin.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Once we were checked in, the next obvious stop would be Yellowstone Lake.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Followed by that favorite area called West Thumb.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

This being our 5th visit to Yellowstone, there’s a certain calm allowed in chasing around to see it all; we can just go slow and take in the detail at a pace I’m certain my mother-in-law is a lot more comfortable with, too.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I’ll never tire of the phenomenon when the environment is so big that we can see a storm off in the distance and dream of its ferocity and just go on with our sightseeing like the bad weather is a million miles away until it’s not.