Murmuration

Starling murmuration in the Arizona desert

Caroline nor I had ever seen a starling murmuration in person before, that is before our otherwise uneventful drive home from Monterey, California. We were about 40 miles into Arizona when I spotted the moving dark cloud and lucky for us there was an off-ramp that allowed us to gain a better vantage point. We watched them for about 20 minutes until they began to settle down.

Starling murmuration in the Arizona desert

We’ve passed through this area of Interstate 10 maybe a hundred or more times and never in all of those travels had we seen such a sight. A perfect ending to a perfect week-long getaway.

Christmas Day

Dawn over Monterey Bay in Pacific Grove, California

Drats, we stayed at a place without a chimney, so Santa couldn’t deliver the goods; probably a good thing because just as I don’t need any new synth modules, Caroline has enough yarn. What we can never have enough of are beautiful sunrises and great breakfasts. Lucky us, the Old Monterey Cafe was open for breakfast today, only not at 6:45 as the busser told us the day before, more like 8:00. So we took a walk across the street to a bagel shop for a cup of coffee as we were willing to wait.

Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

We’ve been up here on the central coast countless times, but we’ve never stopped at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve due to a gazillion cars parked roadside, as the parking lot is always full. At 9:00 on Christmas Day, it turns out that we are some of the first people in the reserve. This was the first view that opened up on the trail.

Surf spilling into a shallow basin in Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

Not but a few more steps up the trail, and the power of the ocean is on display a few hundred feet below us. While the ocean was calm when we arrived a couple of days before, it’s churning today. Today is also the beginning of my sense of vertigo kicking in as we encounter more than our fair share of precipitous drops and sheer cliffs that rouse the electrifying sense of deleterious swirling going on in my derriere; well that’s just where it happens!

View while at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

The plan is to have no real plan; as we were driving down Highway 1 with the idea we’d go south, that was about as far as we’d gotten with having a plan. When Caroline saw the sign for Point Lobos, she suggested that maybe today was a good day to visit, turns out she was right. Now that we’re here, we’ll see where the trail takes us.

Lichen on a tree at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

So a plan has developed, and it dictates we go slow, real slow. Our inspiration comes from this algae (Trentepohlia) that grows slowly and does not sway in the wind, migrate, or retreat in the rain. They just hang on to the surface they are attached to and imperceptibly spread out and thicken. While I could easily look it up while I’m here writing this, I’m leaving a note to my future self reminding me that I didn’t search for an answer and that I may still want to know what purpose these algae and the lichen they often live with symbiotically serve?

Sedimentary rocks layers reminiscent of similar formations in Grand Canyon National Park

Dear Geologists, when might this rock have been uplifted? Its creases are perpendicular to the rock itself instead of the ocean, and if I’m not mistaken, aren’t those creases caused by water running over the rock surface?

Breaking wave at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

The waves roll in with a swell that, in some respects, appears relatively slow until it is compressed into something unmovable, and then its true force becomes apparent. As the water reacts to not having enough space within the volume it occupies, it moves in an unobstructed direction, and in this case, that means going straight up. Air is simultaneously displaced, often with a whoosh, and water escapes as mist and spray in whichever direction the physics of the environment and moment allows. We are left with a beautiful explosion and thunderous clap of water; the rocks are left with just a little less material as erosion acts on them to rearrange their structure into something different, and memories are built and changed with nature’s infinite unfolding.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

Occasionally, we, too, are part of the landscape.

Cormorants at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

We’ve reached Bird Island near the end of the trail here at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve. The birds we are looking at are cormorants, except for those three seagulls having identity issues. For a moment, I think about their freedom, certain they don’t have opposable thumbs and that their food is always cold, but they get to warm up on an island not fit for humans without deploying a serious amount of dynamite. Their home is found wherever they happen to land. Their buffet is bountiful and free, only requiring them to spot it and then fall out of the sky into the water to retrieve it. So as long as they avoid the hawk, eagle, and us humans, they are free to fly, walk, swim, and eat without systems where the exchange of time, taxes, and mental turmoil impinge on the freedom of us humans without the means to afford some of the freedoms the more fortunate can play with.

Caroline Wise at the southern end of Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

Caroline is pointing to the place where our trail will take a final turn inland and back to our car. It’s been a great walkout here as we stroll along the ocean, lost in the beauty of it all and entertained by our thoughts or lack thereof.

Garrapata Beach near Big Sur, California

Too late to return north as we’d figured we would likely be somewhere on the road stuck in traffic in Carmel instead of enjoying the sunset, so we went further south to Garrapata Beach. This is our favorite beach if one could have a favorite beach as it seems that all beaches to some degree are our favorite. What makes this one unique is the quick break of the waves close to shore after welling up to heights that are taller than we are and then some tall cliffs behind us that must capture the sound of the crashing waves because it sounds like a freight train rumbling through here. In our travels from the coast of Alaska and Hawaii, the North Sea to the Atlantic, and the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific, this beach has stood up as having the loudest, most thunderous waves, and for that reason, it is exhilarating. For size, volume, and speed the North Shore of Oahu wins that contest.

Garrapata Beach north of Big Sur, California

So this was our Christmas day: a slow walk in the universe of infinite coastal beauty without the emotional and consumer drama that seems to bog people down in obligations instead of true celebration.

Alsek – Day 12

Raft on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

I have to take a shit, badly. The problem is that the unit is full, not a little full, but within an inch of the top. It was suggested I could hover, but with my sciatica, I don’t trust my legs to keep me aloft in the required position, while the thought of falling on top of 35 pounds of other people’s poo doesn’t sound great either. I could have dug a hole yesterday when I first encountered the urge, but I thought that with my Catholic training, I’d be able to pinch it off. Now I’m straining to remain in control while Pauly waves goodbye, and we head for the exit while I silently beg for one.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Alsek Lake in Alaska

I must look for my inner zen and be in the solemn moment of enjoying these last moments of our crazy adventure. This is such a spectacular landscape that is beyond any place I might have ever dreamt would be a place I’d get to visit in my lifetime. While Antarctica is certainly out of reach, with trips typically starting at around $20,000 per person, this journey down the Alsek has been within reach not just once but twice now. The faces in this photo have a deep appreciation for how lucky they are and find it almost hard to grasp that we muster the courage and save enough money to be able to have these experiences.

On the Alsek River in Alaska

Looking in the rearview mirror, Alaska will quickly fade from our sight and challenge us with the question that begs us, “Did we really do that?” but I hope these visual and written tidbits will always be fond reminders that before we became just “and” we were brave and adventurous.

On the Alsek River in Alaska

It’s hard moving away from this, and yet, by this time, I find I might enjoy hot water again or the simplicity of not having to set up and break down a tent and sleeping bag so often. The little inconveniences, though, are such a small price to pay in exchange for looking out at a mountain passage that is filled with glacial ice that’s been accumulating longer than humans have been on this continent.

On the Alsek River in Alaska

Looking back upriver, letting the enormity of the trip settle in and reflecting on the extraordinary weather that greeted this journey. We had some wind and minor drizzle, and now, here on our last day, it is as though the weather is saying, “Go home.”

Bald eagle along the Alsek River in Alaska

We’ve seen close to a dozen bald eagles in the trees and on the shore; there must be some kind of abundance of fish in these murky waters. We are now in heavily fished waters.

On the Alsek River in Alaska

Last look back just before pulling ashore.

Breaking down rafts on the Alsek River in Dry Bay, Alaska

Our take-out is near Dry Bay, Alaska. Here, we unpack the rafts, clean them for shipping back to Haines, and get ready for our short ride to the airstrip.

Pat Pellet of Barbazon Expeditions in Dry Bay, Alaska

This is Pat Pellett, who operates Brabazon Expeditions (should you want to go fishing, hunting, or hiking up this way). He’s here to transport our gear and us to the nearby airstrip for our bush plane flight as we start to move back towards civilization. We met Pat five years ago along with his dog; it feels kind of strange that this remote we’d meet someone we’ve encountered before.

Map of Dry Bay, Alaska

I was lucky to be the first of us to reach the airstrip with our gear in consideration of my situation. One poorly exercised fart at this point would have spelled massive doom. Regarding my outhouse encounter, it took a moment to let go as I’d forgotten to pee before entering this relatively basic facility. After 12 days of reinforcing the demand that we did not pee in the unit, it was awkward to let myself sit there and release. My next issue was cleaning up, as the brain was disconnecting from how things get done while essentially still in the wild. Where does the paper go in a remote outhouse? The big clear plastic bag seemed like an option, as there was no apparent place to burn the paper. I finally figured that it must simply go down the hold, and so with much guilt and uncertainty, I finished my business and sheepishly slunk away.

Sockeye salmon near Dry Bay, Alaska

Next to the airstrip is a slough where I spot my first wild sockeye salmon swimming by and then another and another.

Grizzly bear near Dry Bay, Alaska

Caroline joined me after the first group finally arrived at the airstrip, and I took her down the trail to the slough to show her the salmon when, off to our left, a grizzly bear was emerging from the treeline. As we spotted him, he spotted us, and he proceeded to sit down for a moment. Seeing he didn’t seem all that concerned with our presence and that we felt like we were a safe distance we all just waited patiently to see each other’s next move.

Grizzly bear near Dry Bay, Alaska

Lucky us, we didn’t need to start screaming to try to scare him off, as he simply got up and lumbered across the shallow waters, occasionally stopping to look for a salmon, but maybe he was just way too full because his effort was practically none. A perfect exclamation point to our adventure.

The plane from Yakutat Coastal Airlines

The plane from Yakutat Coastal Airlines is about to make its first of three flights to drag us and all of our gear out of there.

The slough near Dry Bay, Alaska

With the plane off to make its first delivery, we return to the slough and keep a lookout for grizzlies. With no more bears to be seen, we instead appreciate the beauty of the nearby mountains and the luscious green growth of summer.

Caroline Wise on the plane from Yakutat Coastal Airlines leaving Dry Bay, Alaska

Well, this is kind of meta; Caroline is wearing her Yakutat Coastal Airlines hat on a Yakutat Coastal Airlines flight helmed by Hans, who is not German but has a German name. Caroline picked up the hat last time we flew into Yakutat from Dry Bay.

Braided river in Alaska

The low-flying flight to Yakutat is incredibly beautiful, and if I had, but one wish while up here, it would be that the plane was a little lower and a lot slower.

Coastal Alaska

Snow on the mountains, rain on the horizon, lush green mosquito-infested lands with a snaking river cutting through it are just begging for us to put down somewhere out there and just get one more night of camping out in this landscape.

Coastal Alaska

In every direction, there’s half an expectation that as I gaze out on the horizon, I’ll spot a city out there, but again and again, there’s only more wilderness.

Coastal Alaska

The Pacific Ocean.

Coastal Alaska

Just look at all the mosquitos. Must be a trillion or more of them.

Coastal Alaska

Closing in on Yakutat, Alaska, below the clouds.

Flight from Yakutat to Anchorage, Alaska

After indulging in a junk food orgy of mussels, fried clams, french fries, and chicken wings, along with two amber ales for Caroline and three iced teas for me at Yakutat Jacks, we were soon boarding a small commercial jet. Minutes later, we were above the clouds going to Anchorage, Alaska.

Flight from Yakutat to Anchorage, Alaska

Things look kind of different up here compared to down there on the river.

Flight from Yakutat to Anchorage, Alaska

Our last sight of an anonymous glacier before setting down in Anchorage to catch our flight back to Phoenix.

Flight from Yakutat to Anchorage, Alaska

What an adventure this has been.

Oregon – Day 5

Caroline Wise on the beach in Oregon

Step 1. Walk on the beach, listen to the surf, get lost being mesmerized by the scene.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 2. Enter a rainforest, listen to the moss, and get lost, mesmerized by how lush it is.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 3. Walk on a rainforest trail, hear the silence, and find yourself enchanted by the serenity.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 4. Look for tiny details and examine the light; you will become aware of how profound all of this is.

Newt in Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 5. Find other life, examine it; you are just like a newt, except you are probably not toxic like this rough-skinned newt that we should avoid picking up… but come on, they are so cute!

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 6. Look up and let the sun illuminate your path, and be careful of what might lay underfoot.

Mushroom in Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 7. Realize you will see things you’ve never seen before, take photos, but leave things as you found them so others who follow can also discover the magical.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 8. Just because you’ve seen something once doesn’t mean it won’t be just as spectacular on your next encounter.

Snail in Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 9. Know when to keep your pace slow; life is not a race you win by reaching the end first.

Oregon Coast

Step 10. Exit the rain forest feeling refreshed, invigorated, and transformed by your encounter with slow.

Gorse on the Oregon Coast

Bonus Step. Stay out of the gorse as it is spiny and will hurt you badly. If you think you want a sample of this beautiful but invasive species, bring scissors because, as a hedgerow plant, it is tough and will defy your feeble attempts to harvest a branch with your bare hands.

11. When all else fails, return to the ocean and admire the spectacular play of light and water.

Utah to Oregon Road Trip – Day 5

Oregon Coast

It’s now two and a half years since we made this trip along the Pacific Ocean in Oregon, and I wrote this in May 2018. I should have been blogging about the journey then, but I was carving time out of operating TimefireVR, and spending quality time with Caroline required serious efforts. I could have been writing during the evening or on stops at coffee shops, but it was a legitimate vacation for me, too, as my time in Phoenix was a rare commodity not often shared with writing my blog, let alone my wife. So when we returned to our routines, I continued to neglect my blog and now regret that as so many nuances are lost in time.

John Wise wearing a hand knitted beanie made by Caroline Wise

It’s not often that I get a solo photo of me taken by someone else (in this case, Caroline) that I really do like, but this is one of them. Caroline had been spinning, weaving, crocheting, I mean knitting this for me in the early fall just for a winter adventure and so here I am modeling it for the first time.

Oregon, Coast

I know this spot; seen it a dozen or more times. From memory, I have no idea of the name or the exact place on the map. While Google Maps could help me find it, I guess I don’t really care, as the visual reminder is enough to make me enjoy another glance westward from the road as we travel north.

Proposal Rock in Neskowin, Oregon

Gilligan never slept here.

Caroline Wise at Tillamook Cheese Factory and Ice Cream store in Tillamook, Oregon

So this is how I deduced that we were traveling north today; this is Caroline about to enjoy a Marionberry Pie ice cream cone at the Tillamook Cheese Factory and Ice Cream Store in Tillamook, Oregon. From Lincoln City, it’s about an hour or three if you are us to drive the 44 miles between our yurt and this small town famous for its cheese.

Blue heron taking off near the Oregon coast

It’s scenes such as this that are the cause of delays and making drives that could be made in an hour take multiple hours to finish. While it is true that much of my life revolves around food, it doesn’t dictate the timing of our day more often than not. We are not in a rush to get to a resort or a movie. We have no family to meet out this way. We are free to explore at our leisure and stop where we are inspired to do so.

Coastal Oregon at sunset

I’m fairly certain these spectacular sunsets happen all the time; they must. It cannot just be our fortunate luck that we are looking in the right direction at the right time. Then I ask myself why don’t I see more of these kinds of Oregon coast photos? Why are people not clamoring to buy up every inch of this section of the Pacific coast? If I had to wager a serious guess, I’d suggest that people are too busy seeing their destination and the bumper in front of them to realize that just to their left or right are some amazing sights not often witnessed.

Cows on the Oregon Coast

Damned cows pick up all the luxury real estate where they get to lounge around, graze all day, have their teats massaged, and take pride that the cheese and ice cream made from their milk is made all the yummier by the salt air and golden purple light of their environs. Wish I were a cow sometimes, maybe a Brahman, though the slaughter aspect would be a huge bummer. We stop from time to time so I can commune with them, which reminds me of the first time I pulled over and let off a loud MOO at a pasture of cows, more to Caroline’s surprise than to the large assembly of bovines’.

Near the Oregon Coast at Whalen Island in Cloverdale

We are traveling south, and in other blog posts about the Oregon coast, I have written about this location with the tiny road that travels out to Whalen Island, but right now, it will have to suffice to say that this image, too, is from our road trip on this particular day and is in fact in the sequence of where we were at this time of the day. I don’t know about you, but the reflection and hints of gold and orange in the clouds help this photo stand out and force me to gasp at the profound beauty, or maybe it’s the triggering of the memory that makes it special to me.

Sunset on the Oregon coast at Cape Kiwanda

Just another average Oregon coastal sunset at some other nondescript beach that obviously nobody else goes to because you don’t see any people, do you? Because I’ve seen so much better, and this one was missing the striking purple hues I’ve come to expect. I almost didn’t shoot this image, but hey, it’s better than a poke in the eye, so here’s yet another look at our boring trip to Oregon. Enough snark; this is from Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City, as is the photo below.

Sunset on the Oregon coast at Cape Kiwanda

With the sun now below the horizon, we can safely go for dinner and head to our yurt back at Devils Lake State Park. Besides eating, listening to the ocean, and who knows, maybe we will take an evening walk along another deserted beach. I have no real idea how the rest of the afternoon into evening played out two-and-a-half years ago. One thing is certain: we were awash in things we found extraordinarily beautiful.

Caroline Wise at Newport Cafe in Newport, Oregon

And then there was this Ultimate Monster 4-pound burger with eggs, ham, grilled onions, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and maybe something else, but it’s so big that it’s hard to know just what we ate. Next time, we’ll be sure to order the 8-pound Super Ultimate Monster, and I won’t let Caroline talk me out of it. You, too, can indulge in one of these at the Newport Cafe in Newport, Oregon – just down the road from Lincoln City if you believe 25 miles is ‘just down the road.’

Denver to Rocky Mountains

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Before heading out of Denver this morning, I have another request from Caroline to satisfy, and that’s for us to visit the Denver Botanical Garden. You can rest assured that these orchids are not near our motel because our typical lodging arrangement is more likely to smell of cigarette smoke, stale beer, and a hint of urine and located where, at best, weeds might be growing. Where exactly we stayed is lost, lost, lost, as are many details about this trip to Denver because, once again, this is another of those posts that arise from a forgotten past when, for reasons beyond the timeline of active memory, there was nothing ever written or noted about this visit and so in 2023 I’m here at work trying to assemble something that might reflect relatively accurately about the events of the day.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Searching for something to say about the garden, there was a moment when I thought I wanted to claim it felt like cheating to photograph gardens and flowers as everything is already organized, but just as quickly as I entertained that idea, I realized that photographing anything is in essence configured in a similar way as whatever the subject matter aside from people and animals, the scene is presented as the scene is. Still, there’s something that has me feeling like I’m adding filler with no valuable caloric content, just sugary convenience.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

I spent nearly 90 minutes writing the previous two paragraphs, which could be more time than we even spent in the garden; such is the nature of scouring a mind, looking for any hint of impressions that might have been made a decade earlier. One could be wondering what the importance is of backfilling this stuff, and my answer is that without the photos up here, they are lost in the depths of my hard drive where we rarely, if ever, look back at the photos occupying those magnetic particles. Take this post where I’m sharing 17 of what I felt were the best photos on the day we were visiting Colorado. I shot 229 photos, and the majority of them should be tossed. The tedium of going through so many photos to reacquaint ourselves with memories would be cumbersome, while here on the blog, we can do a quick scan of a day to pick up the high points, and if we are so inclined, we can read a little something or other that might offer us a chuckle.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Maybe I have a small disconnect with flower gardens in that I’m not sure where they come from. Take this dahlia; where do they grow wild? After a little search, I learned they originate in Mexico and Central America, while roses came from Central Asia. I’d wager that my relationship with flowers was negatively influenced by the fact that in my childhood, I only ever saw them in stores and that they now feel like some kind of cultivar only created for human appreciation, kind of like chihuahuas.

Squirrel at the Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

While still at Wikipedia, I thought I’d look up something interesting about the squirrel, and well, there’s little that’s really interesting about this furry creature. But then, just as I was about to turn away, I gave a second thought to its name, which in Old English was Ācweorna, that gave way in the days of Middle English to Aquerne; both words are cognates of the German word Eichhorn. Look closely at the English variants, and you should be able to see the similarity. Obviously, we are not near squirrel yet, which would be influenced by the Anglo-Norman French word esquirel, which came from the Latin sciurus (which in turn is derived from Greek skíouros, which means shadow tail). For those of you who might not know much about the English language you speak, its origins are mostly found in French and German, with nearly nothing remaining of the original forms of English in the modern tongue we use.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Going out on a limb here by claiming this might be a magenta strawflower.

On the way to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

It was now time to head up into the mountains, the Rocky Mountains National Park, to be precise. For one reason or another, we opted to travel the southern boundary and enter through the western gate. Maybe it was meant to facilitate a loop around and through the park, but without afternoon photos, I wasn’t able to decide with any certainty. What I am confident about is that we had beautiful weather for our visit.

On the way to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

I wanted to believe that this is the Colorado River but after chasing the road using Street View, I can’t figure out anything about the location.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Entering the Rocky Mountain National Park via Trailridge Road on the west side of the park just north of Grand Lake. I’m certain about this fact, as the rock layout of the foundation of this sign matches the Street View capture. Looking back at this 10-year-old image of me, I can better recognize the amount of gray hair that was appearing and realize that it didn’t happen as quickly as I sometimes fear. As for Caroline, and I’m sure she’ll disagree, she looks exactly the same, though she’ll point out that she now has about 30 gray hairs at the center front of her hairline; big deal because I now start looking like Santa Claus.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Thanks to the good ‘ol internet for reminding me that we are at the Continental Divide in front of Poudre Lake. By the way, you may notice here that the weather is changing. Look closely and you might catch a whisp of a rainbow that’s over the small lake right near the short here.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

We are in front of the Alpine Visitors Center

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Hunting for sunshine and blue skies limits the direction I’m taking photos. With the change in conditions, you can bet we’ll have to plan on a return visit to capture the vistas under optimal conditions.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

While faint, there’s nothing wrong with double rainbows to brighten the heavy clouds marching in.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

We never expected that our visit would turn into a trip to the Rainbow Rockies.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

The elevation up here is no joke, with me getting dizzy every time we step out of the car. Hopefully, upon our return on a future visit, we’ll opt to stay in Estes Park in order to acclimatize to the heights of this national park.

Clarks Nutcracker bird at the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

What a perfect example of the Clarks Nutcracker that posed for minutes, striking various stances for me to capture its elegance.

Caroline Wise at the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

To the astute reader, you might recognize that this photo of Caroline earning her Junior Rangers badge was at the Kawuneeche Visitor Center, which is near where we entered the park, and that would be correct. It’s placed here at the end of the post, as I felt it was a good closing for this entry.

Following our visit to the Rocky Mountains, we likely drove back to Denver via Estes Park and then headed towards our hotel in Aurora. We dined at a Ted’s Montana Grill around the corner from the ALoft at the Airport. Afterward, we returned to our room because, at the break of dawn the next day, we were catching a flight back to Phoenix so that Caroline could go directly to work.