Small Things on the Oregon Coast

Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Only two and a half miles north of Depoe Bay is Fogarty Creek Beach, the destination for today’s morning walk. Specifically, we are visiting the south side of the creek and arrive with big expectations of seeing small things.

Sea Star during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This morning was low tide, so low that it’s referred to as a negative tide, meaning even more seafloor than normal is exposed. This phenomenon will be continuing through the weekend, though we are expecting throngs of people to show up on Saturday and Sunday to visit the tidepools along with us. Today, though, we were nearly alone out here, just us, the sea stars, some cormorants, and a few people here and there during the nearly two hours we peered into pools, cracks, crevices, and right upon the surfaces where the exposed sea life clings fast waiting for the return of their universe.

Mussels during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Blue mussels had me feeling inspired to buy a harvesting permit from the state of Oregon, but Caroline reminded me that there was a warning sign, which I even took a photo of (see above), that there is a toxin in shellfish along the coast that makes them too dangerous to eat. Drats.

Lined chiton during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Caroline was enchanted upon learning that the German name of chitons is Kaeferschnecke or beetle snail. If you are wondering why that’s special, you’d need to know something about her childhood family nickname: Schnecke (snail). The specimen seen here is a lined chiton (Tonicella lineata).

Sea anemone during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

While there were only a few tide pools holding enough water for the sea anemones to be open, what there was can only be described as perfect. Such beautiful animals.

Sea anemone and Starfish during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

A scene of relative calm, tranquil even, just some sea stars and anemones living as neighbors.

Gooseneck Barnacles and Starfish during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

The same cannot be said for the crowd here at the buffet. Sea stars love eating mollusks, and of course, YouTube was happy to oblige me with a video, replete with menacing music, a haunting voice narrating the horror about to unfold (meaning the stomach of the sea star), and some obligatory sound effects of sloshing and slurping to accompany the sea star monster turning the nice pink mussel with no means of escape into a nutrient-rich soup, a broth quickly absorbed by this terror of the ocean.

Black Katy Chiton during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Chitons, on the other hand, eat algae, which I’ll trust Claude to have figured out correctly and leave YouTube alone, as I’m sure some macabre idiot probably gave these black Katy chitons (Katharina tunicata) the sensationalized treatment, too.

Striped Shore Crab during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

The closer I moved the camera, the deeper this striped shore crab crawled into the crevice it was inhabiting. I probably stood on a nearby rock waiting for a solid 15 minutes. During that time, he couldn’t help himself as sea roaches passed by, and he lunged to nab one, remaining cautious about how far he exposed himself.

Sea anemone during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Anemones control the universe; each anemone is a universe unto itself. God is a psychedelic anemone.

Sea anemone during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

But not the green ones. Green anemones are the sports fans of the aquatic world, just hanging out, drinking, and telling stupid jokes.

Ligia exotica a.k.a. Sea Roach or Sea Slater during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Ligia exotica, a.k.a. the sea roach or sea slater, is a tasty morsel for striped shore crabs.

Gooseneck Barnacles during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

These gooseneck barnacles cost about $100 a pound in Spain and Portugal, but here in America, there is no market for them. Good thing for the sea stars who have them all to themselves. Yep, I turned back to YouTube for an old video I had watched some time ago about eating these. It is the peduncle and what they hold that makes them attractive for eating. If the shellfish ban wasn’t in effect right now, Caroline and I would be adding some of these to a collection of mussels for dinner.

Sea anemone during low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

I should have used fewer images of anemones; I’ve got nothing to say about this cluster except to state the obvious: they are pretty.

A pair of nesting Cormorants at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Every time we are on the coast, we learn something new, many new things really, such as that breeding cormorants have a tuft of white plumage. The other day, we learned about their eye color and how it helps them while hunting underwater, and now we discover an iridescent sheen on their necks. When the mate flew into the nest, I was able to watch and listen to their cooing, rubbing necks and beaks, and all that flirty stuff that lets other cormorants know that these two are a pair.

Low tide at Fogarty Creek in Depoe Bay, Oregon

So, this was Fogarty Creek during low tide. It’ll be difficult not to return tomorrow, but choosing another site means we might see and learn about other new things.

Iris in Depoe Bay, Oregon

As if I didn’t have enough to write about, I thought about all the flowers I see here at the house, and after thinking about the photo of the iris I took last night, I felt inspired to capture the various blossoms while the weather is nice and the flowers are still in good form. Sure, this is the same iris I photographed yesterday, but this is in morning light instead of late afternoon. Plus, I couldn’t have a comprehensive visual list of the flowers without including it.

Aster flower in Depoe Bay, Oregon

With my eyes darting to and fro, scanning the property, it was this aster that caught my attention next.

Blackberry blossom in Depoe Bay, Oregon

A blackberry blossom teases me because we’ll likely be gone before this summertime fruit reaches peak sweetness. Good thing I have a sweet wife to turn to when the rest of nature isn’t ready to share yet.

Rose in Depoe Bay, Oregon

It is the roses that I see first when looking over my right shoulder and out the window next to the front door.

Lily in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Just a hint of the lilies can be seen over the rail of the deck on the western side of the house, in front of the roses, but mostly out of view until I stand up.

Escential Raspberry Lemonade flowers in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Seriously? This is Escential™ Raspberry Lemonade, yep, a trademarked plant.

Veronica Snow Candles in Depoe Bay, Oregon

According to visual search functions, these are Veronica snow candles.

Hydrangea in Depoe Bay, Oregon

While hydrangeas might be obvious to others, again, I needed to turn to the internet to identify these blossoms.

Azalea in Depoe Bay, Oregon

The older I get, the dumber I must become, as even the common azalea was outside the sphere of my knowledge. I’m groaning here admitting this as I just know that my wife will come over while editing this post and, in her thickest German accent, say, “Really, John, you didn’t know that those were azaleas and hydrangeas? You probably had to look up the rose, too, huh?” [Truthfully, I did not recognize the azalea but was able to identify the hydrangea – Caroline]

Meadow buttercup in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Finally, we arrive at the meadow buttercups that are in abundance here, and this concludes the first part of the day. In a minute, after putting my writing fingers away, I’ll get to taking care of portioning our leftovers from yesterday’s lunch, and then for the next nearly four hours, we’ll be either up or maybe down the road. I leave that choice to Caroline as she scours options while I ready our dinner.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

How often has it happened to you that you were on your way to the photo shoot, and at the last second, you decided to load up some Kodak Tri-X instead of the old Kodacolor? Everything old being new again, I suppose I shouldn’t joke as it’s within reason to assume I could be shooting with my old Ricoh KR-5. As a matter of fact, it’s a bit sad that I no longer possess those skills to manually set everything on a camera and then developing the film it at home. All that aside, the truth of this switch to black & white partway through the day is actually mundane. There were a few images below that played well sans color, and I didn’t like switching back and forth between black & white and color, so the rest of the day had to be desaturated. We are visiting Moolack Beach north of Newport this afternoon.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Where are the marine biologists when you need one? For years, Caroline and I have been enamored with these patterns in the moist sand that, if I think hard about it, are seen following the tide going out. We’ve never seen them being made, that was until today. In the lower right corner is a small beetle-like thing, not the blob on the far edge, that is walking around but doesn’t seem to be making a deep enough impression. After a ton of research, maybe more than 5 or 10 minutes worth, it appears that these impressions are being made by foraging sand hoppers, a.k.a. the lowly sand flea. This would make a lot of sense because, as I said, we never see what’s making the patterns, and it is a characteristic of the sand hoppers that, when threatened, such as when humans approach, they jump away. Add to that that they are scavenging organic matter on the beach: as the tide recedes, debris is often left behind, so the sand fleas are out wandering the domain of where their tiny legs will take them without having to expend the energy required to perform those fantastic leaps out of harm’s way.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

This was the image that started the whole black & white sequence of thoughts. The gull was standing on a still wet edge of the shore with a perfect mirror of itself. I set my exposure for that image, but then the gull started flying away, and I felt close enough to get a nice photo of it in flight. Obviously, I was overexposed for anything other than shooting against the darker background and sand, and as I panned with the camera to capture the bird flying away, I got this blown-out image where only the yellow-orange of the beak had color. While I liked that, I liked the high-contrast effect of the black & white ‘Punch’ filter even more, and to have some uniformity between these afternoon images, I treated them all with the same filter.

Yaquina Head Lighthouse seen from Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

I intentionally set my light balance on the sky after zooming into a brighter area, as I wanted to achieve a silhouetted image of the lighthouse against the overcast sky. Between the time we walked down on the beach and the point we arrived as close as we’d come to the Yaquina Head Lighthouse, the sun had been blotted out by a thick band of fast-moving clouds that also dropped the temperature enough that we were nearly frozen by the time we got back to the car. Thank you, Kia, for putting heated seats in our car.

Gooseneck barnacles at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Earlier, I wrote about my desire to try eating barnacles and wondered out loud why we don’t eat them in America. Well, it’s a day later when I’m finishing this post, and I’ve had time to think about that. I’m no longer interested unless I’m in Spain or Portugal, where they cost $100 a pound, as the high price would dissuade people from over-collecting them. Why the change of heart? A gooseneck barnacle needs 2.5 to 3 years to reach a couple of inches in length, and they can live for up to 20 years, compared to cattle that we harvest in about 18 months, collecting about 720 to 896 pounds (327 to 406 kg) of meat from the 1,200-pound animal. Then there are chickens that we slaughter at eight weeks, providing us with about 5-6 pounds (2.3-2.7 kg) of meat. I guess I’m happy we’ve not found a market for barnacles, otherwise, there’d be none here at the shore during low tide to admire.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

This was the photo that absolutely convinced me that it was going to be black & white.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

As the cloud bank ripped by on its way south, there were fleeting moments where a muted image of the sun could be seen with the naked eye. There was no risk of rain, though this heavy, dark cloud might suggest an imminent downpour. It is merely an effect of the photographic technique and post-processing.

Clover blossom at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

You’ll have to take my word for it that this clover blossom was a riot of color; I couldn’t very well jump out of the aesthetic sense I was using to finish the day now, could I?

Finding Routines on the Oregon Coast

Harbor in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Wake up and check the weather. No rain. The sky looks clear. Let’s go. The harbor looks nice; let’s walk from here. Brrr, it’s cold in the shadows! How can it be only 41 degrees (5 Celsius) on a summer day? We should walk in the sun. But if we walk south, we’ll be on the road. Okay, let’s turn around and head for Boiler Bay. Oh, look, that coffee shop is open. Mmmm, marionberry scones.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Following our amazing week on the Oregon Coast, we shared an even amazinger weekend out here. Maybe it was the amazingest even. But now it’s Monday all over again (oops, I mean Tuesday), so this might start to be seen as some kind of routine for us. Wake, walk by the sea, have homemade breakfast (the scone was pre-breakfast dessert), work/write, eat homemade lunch (today it was cold corona beans with fresh chermoula), work/write, make dinner, walk, sleep, repeat. That sounds like a good plan to me, but please keep the rain away.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

There is one thing that is not becoming the routine I’d hoped for, and that’s working on the draft of my novel. As important as I might want to find that project, being here with Caroline and being present for the two of us has more significance in the scheme of things. Some photos of how and where we are sharing our time before and after the work day, some memories of those experiences noted, fresh homemade meals (outside of our routine menu), and extra smiles at one another due to our proximity are all taking precedence over my desire to have found an abundance of opportunity to visit great settings for multi-hour writing sessions. At home, Caroline and I are always apart on weekdays, but here in Oregon, we’ve always been connected at the hip, 24/7, as they say. To break with that tradition while here at the seashore would feel counter to every other day we’ve spent out here.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

These places on the coast have been experienced by the two of us precisely equally. To disrupt that balance would be a kind of sacrilege to all that is perfect between Caroline and me. As I sit at a dining room table in the house we are borrowing for this excursion, I can look out the window, such as now, when the weather is perfect and the trees are blowing. If I go to the kitchen window and look through some branches and over the leaves, I can catch glimmers of the sea out on the horizon. Nature beckons, but Caroline must tend to her computer and the job obligations she has, and while I know she’d never ask me to suffer on her behalf, there’s something reassuring in knowing that we are fully sharing in our experiences while up in Oregon.

Seals in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Sometimes, a not-so-great photo must be shared because it’s the best we’ve got. We’d stood on an overlook high over the cove and watched a few seals coming and going in the water while on a more distant shore, maybe a dozen were congregating in the sun under a cliffside covered with no less than hundreds of birds, but if you told me it was thousands, I’d likely have believed you. We both thought the smaller seal had died, so this photograph came about as Caroline took my phone and zoomed in to somewhere around 30x, and we learned that it was apparently asleep.

Taft Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

Then the whole day goes by, and even dinner has already been had before we find ourselves back out in the world where other stuff is happening, and we become part of that parade of things in nature.

Taft Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

To the trained eye it is obvious that we are looking at seals, not driftwood, on the northern end of the Salishan Spit. Those with untrained minds might wonder why we are out here on such a windy day. For my eyes and imagination, I have to wonder why we chose to live in Phoenix, Arizona, though I don’t really, as it’s a simple equation. When where you live is relatively benign, with wide streets, not grand boulevards, strip malls, and enough cinderblock to build 1000 pyramids, that banality exponentiates the charm of everywhere else you go.

Taft Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

It’s possible that as an amateur photographer, I’ve come to rely on the silhouetted image a bit much, but when you are confronted with the glistening, almost blinding reflection of the sun and its silvery scintillations on the surface of the ocean, there’s really no other way to convey how stark and seductive the image is.

Caroline Wise flying her kite on Taft Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

We might be exploring some photographic/thematic redundancy here during our stay in Oregon, and while novelty might wear thin for the repeat visitors to this blog, these reminders of how often Caroline was able to fly her kite, how frequently we walked the same stretch of beach or similarities between forest walks will all be powerful recipes for putting smiles on our faces in the years to come.

Nelscott Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

We walked north along Taft Beach, passed by the Inn at Spanish Head and crossed over to Nelscott Beach. A bit farther up north, the beach is bisected by a small stream not far from where we the other day we had descended the cliffside on a set of stairs that includes all the stairs ever.

Jellyfish on Taft Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

For us, seeing this jellyfish on the shore, magnifying the sand below and amplifying the light ahead, makes for an interesting sight. As for the experience of the jellyfish being out of the water and likely either at the end of its life or about to kick sand, I’m guessing things are going poorly for it right now.

Purple Iris in Depoe Bay, Oregon

June, the host of our June getaway on the Oregon coast, asked that we pay attention to the irises in her front yard and send her a photo of them should they bloom. I didn’t look at them yesterday, with the rain and overcast sky and all, so they might have bloomed then, but it was only today, getting back to the house shortly before 9:00 p.m., that I reminded Caroline that we need to remember to check in on the flowers. She looked over and thought that they might have flowered, and obviously, on closer examination, we found they indeed had entered the state of ultimate beauty.

Happy New Year From Out Here

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Happy New Year, and welcome to 2024. I took up my place in the first sunlight of the day while Clayton was busy in the kitchen making coffee and presenting us with a parfait breakfast starter.  Caroline is on the phone with her mom in Germany, and I try basking in the warm sunshine while writing, but enjoying the ambiance of the Simpson Hotel is a powerful distraction.

Karthik and Lakshmi at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

A newly married young couple who arrived last night joined us for our morning meal: Lakshmi and Karthik, who also live in the Phoenix area. They’ve been out wandering around the area for the past week, trying to get more of the Southwest into their senses before Karthik takes off for India to deal with some of the beaurocracy involving working on an H1B visa. While he’s gone, Lakshmi will be dealing with their move up to the Portland area. When they told us about their travels from the Petrified Forest to Gallup, over to Santa Fe and Albuquerque in New Mexico, and various points between before finally landing in Duncan, Arizona, it was nice to see a mirror image of Caroline’s and my enthusiasm for sharing time together exploring our world. In the popular vernacular of the day, they are vibing. Over breakfast, sumptuous as always, we discussed the drive home, in which all four of us were traveling in the same direction but talked of a detour through Virden, New Mexico, to try catching sight of some sandhill cranes.

Sandhill Cranes in Virden, New Mexico

These large birds were in short supply, and the ones we did spot were quite distant from where we could observe them. We’d brought binoculars, but even so, nobody got a great view of the cranes. No matter, we’d seen wildlife and were able to share some enthusiasm with Lakshmi and Karthik about how incredible these opportunities are.

Cow sign in Virden, New Mexico

With nothing left to do, and instead of trying to wedge something else into the last minutes of our getaway, we accepted that our long weekend was coming to a close and that by focusing on the drive west, we’d be able to go further into In Search of Lost Time.

On a final note, Clayton left us with a quote from historian Charles A. Beard to ponder: “The bee fertilizes the flower it robs.”

Surprise Guest

Bat in Phoenix, Arizona

I stepped out on our balcony for some reason or other and looked up to check on the mud dauber wasps’ nests that hold fast to the walls and sliding door frame and saw something out of the ordinary. While I thought I knew what it was, I wasn’t certain. After fetching my 200mm lens to zoom in but still a good distance from framing this thing on the wall, I got this shot, which is cropped in more than 50% to even get this level of detail. Sure enough, it’s a bat. This is the first time I’ve been aware of a bat taking refuge on our balcony! Hopefully, it will still be hanging out when Caroline gets home so she can see it with her own eyes. As this is already a violation of my self-imposed break in blogging I’m going to avoid writing anything else, though this discipline is hard fought for.

New Mexico, Here We Come!

Trump Supporters in Show Low, Arizona

Like Satan diving into holy water, we are genuinely concerned about outing ourselves as the enemy were we to walk through the doors of The Trumped Store here in Show Low, Arizona. Claims of the best coffee in the area and the promise of hotdogs were not enough of a draw for us to cross the street and pay a visit. In these days of diminished retail presence, someone is making enough money selling Trump paraphernalia to have been planted on this main thoroughfare through town for years now. My favorite part of this enterprise is a quote from their website where grifters are grifting the grifter:

“The products sold by company are not licensed, introduced, or otherwise authorized or approved by President Trump, His Campaign or by any of its affiliates; and President Trump’s Campaign Committee does not receive any proceeds whatsoever from the Trumped Companies Sales or Activities.”

East of Show Low, Arizona on U.S. Route 60

Out of the ugly and into the beautiful. Truth be told, that stop in Show Low was a minor speed bump because the road northeast of the Phoenix area was as spectacular as it always is. There are no photos from that leg because we’re entertaining the idea that instead of spending the night in Albuquerque, New Mexico, we might be able to make it all the way to Santa Fe. Leaving earlier than anticipated helps in this equation of covering the requisite 500 miles to reach this city sitting in the clouds at over 7,100 feet (2,194 meters).

Near Springerville, Arizona

It’s so easy to see the world reflected in the still waters lying upon the surface, but do you know how to see it in the eyes of the person you love? And how should you know with certainty that what you see in those eyes is a real representation of enchantment or a façade being presented for the sake of harmony but hiding deeper unhappiness? Maybe you don’t, but Caroline and I seem to have either reached a permanent delusional state of tricking one another, or we really do see the resonant frequencies of amazement in each other’s smiles when we stop to gaze at the exquisite sights that nature deploys upon those susceptible to such murmurs.

New Mexico State Line on U.S. Route 60

We left Phoenix seemingly minutes ago, and blam! we’re in New Mexico. These roads we’ve been traveling might be at risk of growing overly familiar, and maybe we struggle to find alternative routes to mix things up a bit, but that won’t stop us from these long hauls. After previous journeys that took us over Holbrook, Arizona, to Gallup, New Mexico, or when we skirted through St. John’s, Arizona, over to Zuni before taking the route south through Mogollon, New Mexico, then cutting over through Duncan, Arizona, we find a way so the adventures continue to pile up like so many stickers found on this State Line sign on U.S. Route 60. As for the nature of what brings us out this way yet again after having been in this Land of Enchantment twice already in the past five weeks: well, those exact details will have to wait until tomorrow when I share that story.

Pronghorn Antelope off U.S. Route 60 in New Mexico

We might have had better luck catching, dispatching, and cooking this pronghorn antelope than getting a proper dinner meal here in New Mexico because it seems everything other than fast food closes at 8:00 p.m. It was just a few weeks ago on our way to Gallup, New Mexico, for the Sheep is Life celebration that we were wondering out loud why we haven’t seen any pronghorn on that trip, and then here today, we finally see a solo member of the species hauling ass trying to race past us. While it finally put on the brakes and reversed direction faster than we possibly could have, we have to have respect for this antelope speeding well over 55 mph (88 km/h), making the capture of this photo taken by me in the driver’s seat tricky, to say the least. Little did I know that the pronghorn antelope is the second fastest land animal on earth, only surpassed by the cheetah by a mere mile or two per hour.

La Ventana Natural Arch in El Malpais National Monument, New Mexico

Prior to stopping here at the La Ventana Natural Arch in El Malpais National Monument, we dipped in at the Narrows Rim Trail that we hiked last year for some reminiscing. Back then, we didn’t hike the entire trail because we arrived at the trailhead late, and this has us dreaming of a return to the 7.3-mile out-and-back hike that brings you to a cliff across from the arch pictured here for a view from above. Enough of the sightseeing; time to finish the long haul to Santa Fe.

Frog Pond

Ground Squirrels at Reach 11 Recreation Area in Phoenix, Arizona

We’d not stopped at the Reach 11 Recreation Area here in Phoenix for quite a while and we felt that today after breakfast was a great time to take a walk, before it gets uncomfortably hot to be out in this exposed area. Everything we love about this place is much the same as it was the last time we visited, lizards, birds, ground squirrels, ants, flying insects, and as much quiet as one is likely to find considering we are in the city. There is something new though; well, not new but certainly an abundance we’d not witnessed previously: we counted no less than 6 little plastic bags of dog shit tossed to the side and 4 piles of dog shit right on the pathway abandoned by those who simply couldn’t be bothered.

Frogs at Reach 11 Recreation Area in Phoenix, Arizona

Meanwhile, over at the frog pond, the croakers were out in force. Once again, please forgive the poor quality of these photos taken with my phone but it’s the best I have to offer as I left the DSLR at home since I hadn’t considered there’d be wildlife out for our morning walk.