Yellowstone Winter – Day 3

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Today is our 15th wedding anniversary, which is a terrific thing to celebrate in Yellowstone this winter. Our honeymoon back in 1994 was at the Grand Canyon National Park, and between these dates, we have visited forty of the fifty-eight National Parks in the United States – some many times over, such as Yellowstone (this is our seventh visit). It would be easier to list the parks we have not been to, such as the eight in Alaska, one in American Samoa, one in the Virgin Islands, Biscayne and Dry Tortugas in Florida, Cuyahoga Valley in Ohio, Isle Royale in Michigan, Congaree in South Carolina, Wind Cave in South Dakota, Kings Canyon in California, and Shenandoah in Virginia. I should also mention that we’ve been to roughly one hundred of the National Monuments, Lakeshores, Seashores, Trails, Parkways, and Memorials. To say we are in love with the natural beauty of America would start to come close to how much we appreciate this incredible country.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Onward with the day. The “Wake Up To Wildlife” tour with Doug got started so early that we had not a moment for breakfast but were supplied with a small boxed meal in the snow coach. In the dark, we drove out to Lamar Valley, a popular spot for wildlife viewing. In the first light of day, we saw three male elk roadside, quickly followed by a coyote not too far up a hill, checking us out. A car next to the road is a good indicator that someone is looking at wildlife; in this instance, that person was Bob Landis, the Emmy award-winning cinematographer for “In The Valley of Wolves.” While no wolves were in the immediate vicinity, we did get to watch a red fox mousing for food. Bob suggested we see wolf researcher Rick McIntyre a little further down the road, who had his scope fixed on a wolf pack; off we went to see several wolves.

A bull moose trekking across the snow during winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Not disappointed with our wolf sighting, we jumped back into the snow-coach and continued further into the Lamar Valley and our first glimpses of sunlight. As though with divine insight, our guide, Doug, was talking about an elusive bull moose that had been reported in the general area. With the park’s size of 2.2 million acres (890,000 hectares), which is four times bigger than Luxembourg, it would seem impossible to pinpoint a lone moose, but within minutes, there he was – a young bull moose not far from the road. Doug could not have been more enthusiastic in his sheer delight that this animal was right there standing in the sunlight. I probably snapped one or two, maybe eighty photos while the moose made its way across the road behind us.

A bull moose trekking across the snow during winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

As the moose crossed the road (there should have been a joke found in that), we got to see it spook a couple of bison that took off running alongside it. As for us spectators, the only thing missing was a giant grizzly bear chasing all three of them.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Seriously though, there was nothing missing. Coming into the park under mostly gray skies, we are having an incredibly fortuitous moment as now, when the sun and blue sky make appearances the contrasts are downright enchanting.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

There is no way to truly convey what we feel about our incredibly lucky existence and that we should be standing once again in Yellowstone while seeing it in a way that makes it an entirely new experience. One might think, “Oh, this is what rich people do,” but we are not rich in the sense that we have an inexhaustible supply of money and free time to come and go as we please. To the casual observer of this blog, do not confuse frugality in our everyday life with the opulence we wallow in when we are out gathering big experiences.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

So, on the one hand, we are rich as we put great value on seeing our world wearing its many faces. We never tire of frolicking in the wealth nature lays before us. The worth we place on seeing a moose, a stream, or god rays streaming down on a frozen landscape is incalculable.

The idea that in our lifetime, we’ll have not only smiled upon one another countless times but are smiling out at nature as it offers us so much to be happy about is a gift it seems few are allowed to indulge in.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Wolf tracks are as amazing as seeing the elegant animals themselves.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Our wildlife expedition during the first part of the day is winding down as we are now heading back to Mammoth Hot Springs.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Once we get back, we’ll only hang around briefly until the next adventure begins.

Time for happy people to grab some lunch.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Funny how I’ve never been so enamored with the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, but here in winter, sans the crowds, its conveyance of being a refuge and warm shelter gives it greater significance.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Back on the road going further south than we ever have, at least during the winter.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Better take photos of all the snowcapped mountains as tomorrow they could be hidden by heavy clouds, and we cannot know if we’ll ever see them again looking just like this.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Driving over snow is a slow process which is fine by those of us who want to linger in the view.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

There were times that I couldn’t remember if we’d ever traveled a particular road before or if this was a winter-specific path that failed to see at other times of the year.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Here we are for a tour of Norris Geyser Basin, led by our guide and driver, Danielle. The other passengers were Mark and Joanna from Houston, who also accompanied us on the Wake Up To Wildlife tour this morning, and as it turned out, they would also join us on the snow coach ride to Old Faithful tomorrow. (Check out their photos and experience on their blog at www.thetravelgeeks.com.)

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

As our small group was eager and willing to see it all, Danielle charged right in and got us going.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

She marched us from here at Steamboat Geyser all the way around the snowy boardwalks, even across Porcelain Basin, only missing a small part of the basin, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We did not sprint through the basin, mind you, as the four of us were eager to take in the sights that none of us had experienced before.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I can’t believe I shot all these photos in JPEG, but that’s exactly what I did because I felt RAW was too memory-hungry and that adjusting all these images in Photoshop would be painful.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I also can’t believe I’m foolish enough to attempt posting 38 images, but this is the price I must pay for Caroline and I enjoying so many that we couldn’t decide how to cut a meaningful number from the day.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Hoar frost is a phenomenon when the ground grows very cold and squeezes up the moisture that hasn’t frozen yet.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Through a lot of map scouring, I could figure out the names of these unnamed features, but who has that kind of time? I’ll bet I regret this in the future.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Can you tell that this is a panorama made from four portrait images? I didn’t think so.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Contrary to reports elsewhere, this is not olive oil, milk, and balsamic vinegar.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I could be wrong, but I think this is the Porcelain Basin, and just as I make this half-hearted claim, I visited Google and can confirm this is, in fact, the Porcelain Basin.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

This was the path to Grandma’s house, where the big bad wolf might be hanging out. Time to leave.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Thanks to our winter guide, Danielle, for affording us so much time to see so much.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

To see and hear Roaring Mountain in the winter is a treat as during the rest of the year, you get to first experience Roaring Crowd and then, only if you are lucky, do you hear the rumbling mountainside in the background.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Hmmm, where exactly did we spot these basaltic columns?

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Not a well-lit bison in the foreground but an intriguingly lit mountain with some menacing clouds on its other side.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

A bison a bit closer to the road wearing a milkshake mustache seemed to be enjoying itself.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

The weather changes a lot out here.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Just as day gives way to night.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

While we didn’t take advantage of this little luxury, the music that plays over the ice-skating rink was a constant companion during our time next door.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

And next door was one of the jacuzzies that, for an hour, was all ours as we soaked in the hot water under light snow, serenaded by some golden oldies that played on over at the empty ice-skating rink. Seriously, life doesn’t and cannot get better than this. An amazing 15th anniversary, for sure.

Carl G. Washburne – Rainforest

Yachats, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Beautiful Yachats, Oregon, which we should call home in retirement. (Well, that was our thinking in 2008 when things were still affordable up along the Oregon Coast. Nowadays, in 2022, as I’m expanding this post, that dream is no longer possible due to private equity and AirBnB destroying the ability to find affordability in places where big profit can be exploited.)

Devils Churn in Yachats, Oregon

The ferocity of the Devil’s Churn persuaded us that we didn’t need to spend another minute here and that we should just get down the road, or else be trapped for hours while I aim to take the most perfect photo of the chaos.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Having visited so many of these locations on prior outings, we now have a repertoire of places requiring revisits. Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park is one of those destinations in our ever-growing list of must-return-to sites.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

From sand dunes to rocky coastal mountains, the Oregon Coast is a treasure trove for exploration, but here at the Carl Washburne State Park, a lush rainforest is roadside and yet rarely visited. While the opposite side of the road, with its Hobbit trail to the mile-long sandy beach, is popular, the China Creek trail sees few visitors. This works out fine for Caroline and me, for we appreciate the quiet, the solitude, and the solemnity of this overgrown, mushroom and moss-infested forest.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Elk are said to inhabit the area along the trail, but they have remained elusive to us so far; mushrooms, though, are here in abundance.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Mushrooms come in all shapes and sizes. Imagine that these were elephants or unicorns, and there’d be millions lining up to witness the spectacle. Well, lucky us that people don’t find the same enjoyment in the rain forest so it’s all ours.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Or maybe Oregon should import gorillas into these environments, and then the crowds would come, though that would just ruin our pilgrimages to this beautiful little corner of the coast.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Ha, I should point out that this part of the trail isn’t even in the deepest part of the forest yet; that’s still coming up.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Just past these mushrooms.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

And then, blam, you are in the moss-covered three-handled family gradunza. That’s right, if you ever wondered what Dr. Seuss took influence from, this was it.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Our happy place.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

If we were small enough, our happy place might be under this mushroom, but we are giants.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Though not so giant as to compete with the trees.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Nor as big as the sun that shines down these rays into the trees, casting shadows within the fog.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

So, the best we can be are puny people in awe of how incredible not only the place is, but how fortunate we are to realize we can be here to be energized in the magic of light and shadow.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

In Arizona, the spider webs are invisible in our zero-humidity, dry climate, but up here, they are gathers of both insects and dew.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Maybe I’m getting too carried away with the god-ray photos?

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Well then, here’s a salamander taking a break with the green world around it reflected in its eyes.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Wait a minute, have I shared a photo previously of this exact location? Probably, but I’ve also taken a thousand photos of my wife and shared them too.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Not a mushroom but an alien intelligence sent here to observe us.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

I sure have created myself a task I often feel ill-prepared for by adding all of these photos. I’ve endeavored to include a corresponding amount of something to say about each, but that’s difficult, especially considering that I’ve likely written about the general area and impressions a dozen or more times.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Looking back at these memories, I see the forest as it was and still is; Caroline looks almost the same, while I’ve grown thinner and grayer. We still have that green camera bag, Caroline only recently retired that flannel shirt we bought at Euro-Disney in 1992, and she wore at our Las Vegas wedding, and we are still not quite satisfied that we’ve experienced enough of Oregon, and so this November 2022, like so many other Novembers, we’ll be back, likely on this exact trail.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

We’ve often wondered how many of our photos are from essentially the exact same spot. For that matter, how many of these words have been written verbatim time and again?

The Hobbit Trail at the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

After starting the China Creek Trail at the trailhead near the park office and covering the Valley trail, you may cross over Highway 101, where you can choose to hike to Heceta Head Lighthouse or turn right over the Hobbit Trail, returning to the park entrance on the beach (hopefully at low tide).

Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

This is one of the majestic photos that defy my belief that I captured it. Caroline should chime in here about now and inform me that, in fact, she took it.

[Come on, John, everybody knows that only you take nice photos ^_^  Caroline]

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Two selfies of us in one post can only mean I’m giving into the nostalgia of things, or maybe I enjoy getting lost in the romantic notion that those two smiling faces have been sharing space in front of the camera for so many years.

Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

This guy or gal is an uncommon sight for us to see on a beach in Oregon, especially at this time of year.

Winchester Bay in Reedsport, Oregon

I believe we are at Winchester Bay, which would make sense with our lodging being just around the corner.

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

If this is the Umpqua River Lighthouse, and it is, then we must be staying in yet another yurt because just behind that lighthouse is the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. Apparently, this was our first time staying at this park, as far as the old reservation confirmations I still have in email. We were in yurt C53, and some years later, we stayed in B18, followed in 2019 and 2021 when we stayed in C35, which is the same yurt we’ll be occupying in November 2022.

Tree Tunnels & Blueberries

Copper Harbor, Michigan

“Seek and ye shall find” paves the way to a moment of “lo and behold,” and a vision of beauty enshrouds us. I can’t say that we intentionally focus on finding the gorgeous corners of our world, but then again, we really don’t make much effort at all to focus on cities where the toil of work makes monsters of people who forget or never knew the calming effect of being in places where tranquility is a drug for those who can locate a frequency aligned to its prescription.

Copper Harbor, Michigan

Dawn over serenity is a destination afforded only to the few whose constitution demands a refreshing cleansing of the grime that accumulates during the drudgery of trading time for money, though there is no greater truth in our modern world that money equates to being able to afford the discovery that takes one places, often deep within.

Leaving Copper Harbor, Michigan

The roads to external and internal beauty find their starts at different junctions in our lives. One path begins with a word, the next with a book. Maybe a sunrise alights the spark where the journey into early light takes hold of the eye and imagination, suggesting that there is something else at work aside from the simple repetition of a planet circling a nearby star. Here on the Upper Peninsula, the literal beginning of a path slices down an entire country, and while interesting as a whole, we’ll experience but the tiniest of fractions during our journey of it. Like a great book where we are limited to only reading the first chapter, we’ll be denied what the rest of the story delivers.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Our drive this morning is effectively navigating a tree tunnel as it wends its way south out of Copper Harbor; within moments, we gasp at the profundity of autumnal beauty. Surely, we should have anticipated seeing this rainbow of color, but the dense layers of foliage juxtaposed against the woods and asphalt brought us beyond even our wildest dreams.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

It is as though the strings of the orchestra are focused on creating a symbiosis between the melancholic and the ecstatic as we are simultaneously elated and emotionally fragile that, for some incomprehensible reason, this is all ours to experience. The musicians of the forest perform for us and us alone, where are the others?

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Notes from a felted piano touch the delicate soft places of emotion that seem to guide the rustling of leaves saturated in the hues of autumn while the heartstrings of John and Caroline synchronize with the speed of the landscape pulsing in attraction to pull us in.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

The visual magnificence of this play of light has touches of brilliance and surprise that, while they might be a composite of different sights gathered on other days, stand unique in their performance that will only be offered at these exact moments where we were present to accept the song and theater of nature.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Maybe all of this should have remained in the furtive clutch of hidden memories as it is an absurdity to consider that these feeble words will weave together the threads of a narrative that can share how the two of us bring images of sea and sky, the sounds of elation and noise, words of enlightenment and imagination, and the joys of love and anguish to define the overflowing romantic sense of being in such a place that largely defies explanation.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Later we came to learn of our extraordinary good fortune of being at the right place at the right time as we were told that we were witnessing a record year for leaf peepers during peak color change. And as beautiful as it truly was, later in the day, someone asked if we had driven the Brockway Mountain road that allegedly puts this tree tunnel to shame; we had not. Upon leaving Copper Harbor, we had seen the turnoff but knew not where it led or what it might behold. No matter, as we are so entranced with the natural beauty of the Upper Peninsula that we are sure to return many times to these moments.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Then, after the infinity spent in the delirium of total saturation, we are again at what appears to be the sea, though, in fact, it is merely a lake but of such depth that it too has a song that resonates within us as so many other places of great beauty.

Wild blueberries found off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

On our way to Gay, Michigan, we passed a lady rummaging on the roadside. My unabashed curiosity demanded I stop the car, followed by a quick reverse while lowering the window, and an inquiry as to what she was looking for.

Wild blueberries found off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Cranberries were what the lady was hunting and she kindly offered to show us where to look. With Caroline kneeling down next to our amateur botanist, I spotted what looked like blueberries and asked what they were. After mentioning that the local cranberries are a sour type, requiring cooking and a good dose of sweetener, she tells us that the little blueberries are yummy wild blueberries and perfectly edible.

Caroline Wise picking Wild blueberries off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

We spent the next hour collecting a bag full of these wild treats. Over the next three days, we rationed this peninsular treasure, enjoying its near-winter sweetness while relishing our great fortune yet again and basking in the memory of picking berries next to Lake Superior.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

We could have gone in any number of directions up in the Copper Harbor area, but compromises are always required when exploring new lands and new terrains of experience and so we go forward to wherever that forward might take us. Had we remained in the autumnal heavens of tree tunnels, we’d have never discovered the things we hadn’t imagined were out here.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

The atmosphere weighs heavily upon the waters of Earth as gravity works to contain that liquid domain within boundaries ordained by the nature of our planet. We stride over these surfaces with the intention of finding something of meaning that remains mysterious and elusive, but that doesn’t squash the curiosity of these two people who seem to intuitively understand that something magical is right in front of our senses. Is it the white froth of the waves, that large mossy rock there on the shore, or the trunk of a tree gripping its tiny corner on land above the depths? It must certainly be everything and nothing, as even in the dark sky, our minds are looking for patterns that might offer answers to the unknowns.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Oh my…it’s a scene mimicking our very lives. At the edge of the shifting sands of time, we hold fast in a tenuous grip of our place within it, but at any moment, we might succumb to the battering energy of life that laps at our fragile existence

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Gay Bar in Gay, Michigan

But everything changes once we hit the Gay Bar. Seriousness and discovery give way to debauchery and humor. We have arrived in Gay, Michigan, population unknown, though obviously fluctuating due to those bent on visiting a gay bar at least once in their lives. Souvenirs are, as you’d expect, Gay-themed and bawdy. Lunch was perfect after ordering a footlong hotdog, allowing visitors to brag about having had 12 inches in the Gay Bar.

Fish Bail vending machine in Gay, Michigan

Beyond my juvenile prurient humor, it was this bait vending machine outside the Gay Bar that really attracted Caroline’s attention. Hopefully, she can add just why it was so interesting to her.

[I just couldn’t believe there would be such a thing as a live bait vending machine. Food, drink, underwear, we’ve all seen (or heard of) those machines, but live bait? Too bad we didn’t check the price. In hindsight, we could have bought some and fed fish somewhere – Caroline]

Deer on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Somebody forgot their lawn ornament next to the road.

Leef peeping on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

I’m speechless about seeing even more of these colors, or maybe I have just run out of words that will convey anything else.

Leef peeping on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Yep, red, yellow, orange leaves, and me in awe; nothing else exists right now.

Quincy Mill ruin near Mason, Michigan on the Upper Peninsula

Exploring the Quincy Stamping Mill ruin near Mason, Michigan, and also paid visits to the Quincy Smelting Works and Quincy Mine Museum further down the road. But hey, that sounds interesting; where are the photos? The gargantuan chore of assembling all these materials 16 years after we took this journey (it’s February 18, 2022, as I write this) is already an undertaking of a scale I don’t want to make larger. When I’m done with the nine days we were here in America’s mid-west, I’ll have pushed the original brief single photo posts, each with about 180 words of text to something containing between 25 – 35 photos and about 1,000 words each.

Random sign on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Fulfilling Caroline’s dreams and ensuring I don’t have regrets, we stopped at a yarn store somewhere after the mining museum, but where that was exactly and what its name might have been are lost in time. Regarding these roadside all-American signs extolling the virtues, typically religious, of the community or of the kind of morals people should live by, Caroline has been enchanted with them for years since first laying eyes on them.

Mt. Shasta Restaurant in Michigamme, Michigan

While we stopped for dinner, our hopes were dashed as the kitchen had already closed, but the OPEN sign hadn’t been turned off yet. As luck would have it, our stop wasn’t for naught as this location on the side of the road across from Lake Michigamme was full of history that was pointed out by the person informing us we wouldn’t be eating walleye here tonight. The Mt. Shasta restaurant played a role in the 1959 Oscar-nominated film Anatomy of a Murder starring Jimmy Stewart, Lee Remick, and Eve Arden.

Caroline Wise at Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming, Michigan

Still a half-hour from Marquette, where we’d stay the night and obviously still hungry, we found the Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming was open; time to eat, as who could know if anything was open further up the road.