Yellowstone Winter – Day 6

Another snowshoe hike was on order for the day; this one was taking us over the Upper Geyser Basin to Biscuit Basin with a return on a snowy bike path.

Starting out early today, we were able to take our time lingering under the ghost trees, eyeballing ice bacon, watching bison stalk us, and catching our breath after the altitude and cold air stole it from us. More about all of that as this day unfolds.

These particular bison weren’t the creepy stalker ones that were hiding behind trees plotting something nefarious just out of view. I’d tried photographing those, but they were blending in with the dark trees, trying to be stealthy. Never trust a conniving bison is what my grandfather taught me.

Having spent the latter half of Tuesday here on a mostly sunny Upper Geyser Basin, we were not taking a lot of time this morning to dwell, as the area between Morning Glory Pool and Biscuit Basin is an unexplored corner for us, I think, and we want to get to it.

The geyser in the previous photo was captured as it was finishing an eruption before returning to just billowing steam. I’ve always found it intriguing to be able to see deeper into the springs and geysers of Yellowstone, so I’m sharing this close-up view of the interior.

The vertebrae and pelvic bone of an elk are not something you see every day.

For that matter, the interior of the Morning Glory Pool is also not seen every day.

Maybe I should have gone through all of our other photos of previous visits to Yellowstone to see if I have another image of Artemisia Geyser, but I do believe this is our first.

Ghost trees typically sit next to hot springs where the steam freezes on the tree, enshrouding it with incredible ice sculptures, dripping icicles, and what we affectionately call ice bacon. Ice ribbons form on branches with stripes in a gradation of clear to milky ice and back to clear – it appears that as the water freezes, the temperature, humidity, or who knows what determines whether the ice forming is going to be clear or milky. This looks to all the world like bacon strips made of glass.

A close-up of some of the ice sculptures we found intriguing.

We’ve never in our lives seen ice like this.

With blue skies on the horizon, we can have hope for a bit of sunlight today.

What you may not be able to immediately make out in this photo is that ribbons of ice have melted to a small extent during the previous warm days when it was hitting highs in the mid-30s (+1 and +2 Celsius), creating the icicles hanging from the tree.

Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Tempting fate, Caroline is standing next to Mirror Pool under nature’s daggers.

A bit of a guessing game is going on here, but I think that we’re looking over towards Cauliflower Geyser from a bridge that will take us over to Biscuit Basin.

The weather moves around a lot in Yellowstone, threatening doom one moment and heaven the next.

Near the entrance to Biscuit Basin, you’ll find Vulnerable Spring, though not typically with bison in the background standing in the snow.

As I write this, I find no small amount of sadness that the diversity of colorful hot springs right before my senses is unable to elicit the poetry or creation of a new language to convey the profundity of what is experienced when approaching something simultaneously beautiful, mysterious, and absolutely dangerous to life. While this is not something that can attack and maul you, it would be a conscious decision to be taken by its scalding grip.

Step upon the wrong spot, and you could find yourself the victim of your own curiosity, but that cautious distance we maintain works to pique the interest to see further into the workings of the earth. Drawn to see more, smell more, and know more, we are pulled closer, if not physically, then sensually, so we might have a secret whispered to the spirit looking for more.

If I were a painter, the play of light, steam, elements, life, light, and time would certainly guide my hand in knowing where to put down the stroke that might define the shape of things on the canvas. If I were a musician, might the patterns become self-evident notes offering me access to a world the likes of Eric Satie, Sergei Rachmaninoff, or Max Richter have known? But I aspire to write and find myself grasping at worn words that, much like tones and hues in novice hands, leave little lasting impression, and so I continue to practice laying letters down while never really growing confident that I have added any value to the page.

It will have to suffice that the light that shines from within the shared love of these two people fortunate enough to experience places that can make hearts sing, simply plays to the universe with us as the only audience.

There’s a poetry that floats overhead and flows downstream while shadows play and a glistening reflection works to seduce us, but the fleeting nature of it all is orchestrated for an immediacy that does not wait for others to join in with appreciation for this once-in-a-lifetime moment that can only ever be known by those present for witnessing such things. And so we take all we can into memories, but those impressions are weak and betray the desire that wishes to hold fast forever to a scene that might only exist in a passing, yet profound, glance.

What if we understood that all around us, above and below, everywhere in all situations, we were capable of extracting immense beauty from life? Would we continue numbing our sense of the profound that stared at us from our first to last breath and still chose to be immune to awareness in exchange for some meaningless gratification of the ego that never really satisfies the soul?

We are as steam is to a hot spring, the life on a planet. We will appear for a simple moment, adding grace to a landscape, and just as quickly disappear into an invisible atmosphere as though we never existed. Yet, within those fleeting few seconds, the light of our being might have illuminated a corner of someone else’s consciousness. Did we offer delight to them or weigh heavy like storm clouds looming on the horizon?

How easy it is to witness beauty and allow its constructs to be assembled in ways we define as intrinsically wonderful when we condition ourselves to define nature in non-threatening ways. Replacing the grandeur of our earth with promises of heavenly eternities diminishes our need to see the world as it is: incredible and rich with wealth beyond the things we adorn upon vapid existences.

There is no monetary value to seeing one’s shadows standing 30 feet tall in pristine snow, but then again, the remembrance of such a moment shared with the person you love is priceless.

We burst into nature and expend our energy in a flash of bedazzling spectacle if we are fortunate, or we whimper to the exit, hurt and unsatisfied as being here and gone is the fate of us all.

The warm glow of the late day tells us that time is moving us toward sunset and that we’ll soon approach nightfall. The temperature will drop, as will our ability to continue past the wee hours. We’ll take time to replenish ourselves with food and sleep, but who among us understands the need to take time to replenish ourselves with sensuality found in the dance of nature? Even if our lives should be brief and taken away too soon, what will the encounter with its magic have been worth? Will you have lived or simply existed? This then begs the question, how do we accept the machinations of a society diminishing the value of the individual by corrupting our ability to find the light that illuminates our better senses?

The silhouettes of life around us grow longer, as does the value of what our own shadows have collected by just being out here walking into beauty.

Goodbye day, and thanks for allowing me this opportunity to roam in a world that, for a little while, is mine to share with others from now and into the future, should these words continue to flow outward.

I achingly long to remain under these skies, in these moments, next to my best friend, who is in the same space as I am. I sense the sting in her eyes and murmur in her heart as the music of nature paints this canvas of the extraordinary that’s being amplified by our shared love.

The pulse of life is there; can you hear it, see it, feel it? It will continue throughout the night and still be with us the next day, with or without you, with or without me. If we are lucky, we will rise together again to witness the cold give way as our hearts warm the relationship between you and me, us and them, day and night, life and death. Persisting in celebration, love, and happiness, this is the landscape we live to always explore.

The call of life comes from deep within and deep below if you are able to tune your senses to pick up on the magic of all this. But for now…

…we will go to sleep like all things do so we might restore ourselves for another day emerging from the deep.

Yellowstone Winter – Day 5

Breakfast is finished, trail mix and Clif bars are packed for lunch, Camelbak bladders are filled, and then I notice one of Caroline’s snowshoes is broken. The ski shop for Old Faithful Snow Lodge is around the corner and down the hall from the lobby. Without a hint of trouble, the girl at the window trades our rental snowshoes from Mammoth with a pair from her inventory. Our ski drop, this is what it is called even though we are going snowshoeing, leaves the hotel at 9:00. At 9:30, after being dropped off next to the Kepler Cascades, the snowshoes are strapped on, jackets zipped up, and we are on the march.

Seven miles is the total trip distance we must snowshoe through snow and ice. The Lone Star Geyser Trail follows the Firehole River for much of our trek. Crunch, crunch, crunch, our snowshoes plod ahead, breaking the silence that, at times, is accompanied by the gentle sound of the babbling waters.

The sun is hiding out behind clouds; then again, the wind is also at bay, and we are comfortable on our long walk. Not too far along, we spot a Canadian goose treading water, and he has company; a male and a female hooded merganser duck are swimming to and fro.

Ducks and geese are easy to get along with; they stay in the water, and we stay on the trail – simple.

Not so simple to deal with: along the trail, we see a spot where a herd of bison appears to have been hanging out. Turns out that it is a lone male bison who is not a very good housekeeper and has a healthy bowel, giving the impression that a small group lived in this riverside pasture. Lucky for us, he is not to be seen until we round the corner. Now you know why we came to know it was a single him. Caroline is nearly ready to turn back, but I assure her that this little bison is a good 130 feet away; 75 feet is the minimum suggested distance. We pass him while he busies himself, rooting grasses out of the deep snow. We couldn’t help but pause and watch him use his head as a plow, swinging it from side to side to push snow out of his way and revealing sweet morsels below.

Lone Star Geyser erupting at 12:10 p.m. on January 14, 2009 in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

By noon, we are upon Lone Star Geyser, and imagine there is no chance we should be so fortunate to have this geyser erupt during the short window we’ll be present. After all, this geyser erupts every three hours, and we were fairly certain that we had seen what must have been the steam cloud from an eruption at 11:00. Wrong. At 12:10, Lone Star begins erupting. For twenty minutes, the geyser puts on a show for our personal enjoyment and total disbelief that this is actually happening.

By 12:38, we were certain the spectacle was over, and with a four-and-a-half-mile hike back to Old Faithful Snow Lodge, we beat feet and got along down the trail.

On our way back, we saw Mr. Bison again, except this time he was napping under a tree in shallow snow. He seemed as tranquil as a full bison might actually become in appearance to two nervous snowshoers trying to look calm as they snuck by.

While from Buffalo, I did not mean to imply I was the beast napping under a tree. On the contrary, I’m the rainbow ice-cream-headed two-legged scaredy cat from the desert.

Crunch, crunch, crunch, we crunched to where the trail began and then crunched on over to Kepler Cascades for a peek and a toast of hot tea from the thermos before once again going crunch, crunch, crunch back to the Snow Lodge.

The Kepler Cut-Off trail next to the road was narrow and not groomed, making me prone to stumbling, so we re-joined the road and crunched our snowshoes all the way back to the hotel and our cabin.

After seven hours and seven miles, we were walking directly into the dining room to replenish our tired bodies. Oh, how we wished the Snow Lodge had jacuzzis as they do up at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Yellowstone Winter – Day 4

8:30 in the morning, and we are yet to see the mighty sun, but over the clouds and fog, one senses it is just moments away from throwing its rays upon our faces to bring a warm glow to our cold cheeks.

A half-hour ago, we clamored into the snow coach for the four-hour, fifty-mile crawl across the snow to Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin.

Through mountains and meadows past rivers and creeks, we are going just slow enough that from time to time, I’m able to capture an image worthy of sharing.

We occasionally stop along the road to stretch our legs, get some fresh air, and check out places such as Roaring Mountain. As I just posted an image from that area yesterday after our stop at Norris Geyser Basin, I present you a closeup of ice instead.

What if you cross Jeff Goldblum from The Fly with John Hurt’s character from The Elephant Man during winter? You get The Frozen Elephant Fly from Yellowstone.

Along the way, we stop to look down upon the Gibbon Falls, gaze at trumpeter swans, then drive along the Firehole River and its cascades, and take a needed pit stop at Madison Junction for the heated restrooms.

It was interesting to encounter those warm facilities but also peculiar in some way, as my impression prior to arriving at Yellowstone was that things were operating quite minimally. So why heat a bathroom halfway between Mammoth and Old Faithful? Ah, day visitors come in from West Yellowstone on snowmobiles to see Old Faithful erupt, grab lunch, and exit the park.

As I share this image of the bison that just crossed the Firehole River I’d like to explain why above I alluded to the Firehole Canyon. We drove that narrow little spur, but the lighting and infrequent stops didn’t allow me to capture even one somewhat decent image. Likewise, I didn’t get a worthwhile photo of a bald eagle that was flying by and landed on a roadside tree. So it goes when trying to take photos from a moving vehicle with windows that don’t open.

At our destination, the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, we gobble down a hot lunch in a rush to get back outside, don our snowshoes, and find our way to the Upper Geyser Basin, where the sun shines, and blue skies beg for our appreciation. We are happy to oblige.

Shuttered for winter as it would be too costly to operate, meaning heat it, there’s a strange quietness to this otherwise bustling icon.

Hot springs bubbling over with their heavily mineralized waters jet steam into our faces and fog our glasses, filling our noses with their familiar sulfurous aromas. We feel at home in a comfy, cozy place; it is as though we are visiting family. While many will pass through this environment oblivious to its inherent beauty, the raw natural state of this unspoiled land speaks volumes to us: it lulls us with its song, transfixing our senses into a near zen-like meditative state of bliss.

How to explain to someone what Yellowstone is beyond geography and geological sciences seemingly cannot be accomplished with the poverty of language I’m stricken with. One must possess the love of all things and have the ability to see beyond artifice, modernity, and fear to find oneself in a kind of oneness or even nothingness within this bastion of wilderness.

Drift with the steam, lose yourself in the clouds, and swoon in the beauty of it all.

Note to John: should you ever forget these things and places; this was that spot approaching the bridge between the Old Faithful Geyser and Observation Point Trailhead. Just ask someone to show it to you on a map.

Snow and steam, earth and water, fire and air, the elements are all around us.

Color and scent, warmth and cold, sunny and cloudy, our senses are measuring all that is around us.

I was wondering how vibrant the colors of winter would come through or if the cold strangled the bacteria pushing it to a kind of monochromatic hibernation, but here it is in all of its vibrant glory.

Would anyone ever remember this level of detail as they scan their memories 10, 15, or 25 years in the future?

How wonderful that life encodes the most important memories in DNA so the patterns that must repeat are safeguarded from disappearing while our impressions are fleeting observations that really have no consequence on the bigger picture.

All the same, I enjoy these reminders that are encoded on memory cards, providing me with reference points to the patterns I’ve explored.

My photos, at least as of early 2009, don’t offer me an easy way to tag my location or attach memories I might want to travel with these images, so on occasion, at least for location, there’s Google. This is Doublet Pool.

Not all photos of us need to include our faces, as these also tell stories. Caroline is seen here trekking into the sunset with snowshoes and trekking poles, as we don’t yet trust our footing on all that snow and ice.

It took quite a while to identify this, but it appears to be Lion Geyser…

…while this was just beautiful.

Sawmill Geyser seems appropriately named as while it’s erupting, the patterns in the ejected water slice through the air like a buzzsaw hunting for something to cut.

Is this an emissary bison from the herd crossing the Firehole River we’d seen earlier in the day, sent to determine if a warm camping spot was available at the grounds of the Old Faithful Geyser?

After dinner, we’re on our way north to the Lower Geyser Basin on the Steam, Stars, and Winter Soundscapes tour. For the bargain price of only $32 each, we were whisked into the night to visit the paint pots and geysers with the added luxury of being provided hot chocolate in insulated souvenir mugs.

While we were out on the dark trail admiring the stars, steam, and sounds, we had a bonus sound no one could have anticipated: the rumble of Earth caused by an earthquake. When the low-frequency hit, I informed the small group what we’d just heard, though they were incredulous as none of us felt a thing. Back at the Snow Lodge we asked about any recent quake activity and were told of one this evening that occurred deep below Yellowstone Lake. The only thing missing was a display of the Northern Lights, but I ordered those for tomorrow night’s entertainment.