Solo Across America – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

Actors, that’s what I’m calling us because looking at us, you wouldn’t believe our emotional turmoil when this photo was taken moments before saying bye until next Saturday. For months, we knew this day was coming; it’s not the first time we’ve been separated by travels that took one or the other of us somewhere away, but still, when the day arrives, when the hour creeps closer when the minutes wind down, there is no good way to hug and express our love adequately enough to allay the flood of emotions. Our tethers to one another grow shorter the older we become; romance is still our middle name.

Verde River in Fort McDowell Indian Reservation, Arizona

And here I am, a little later, behind the camera, with New York on the horizon. Actually, this is the Verde River on the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation. I’ve wanted to grab a photo of this sight for years, but traffic on this bridge can move fast, making this stop precarious. Today, I took the opportunity to pull over as traffic wasn’t too bad. After I snapped this image, I was looking for a photo of the desert and some saguaro cacti that would encapsulate the environment I’m leaving, but this being summer, the landscape never offered up a scene I felt worthy of stopping for, especially when considering I have four hundred miles of driving ahead of me.

SR87 north of Strawberry, Arizona

The distance I’m driving today wouldn’t typically be an issue, but my commitment to avoiding all freeways means that not only will I have more opportunities to see the intimate side of America, but my pace will be slowed by the size of roads and more importantly, I get to stop for photos. That, though, is where problems arise. You see, taking photos in my mind only takes a few seconds, but in reality I can lose myself in the process, and I end up seriously delaying everything.

SR87 on the way to Winslow, Arizona

That is why I allocated eight days to drive out there, out across America. These very roads away from everything else draw me in, places where I can stand in the middle of the street on a busy Saturday, and people are polite enough to wait miles away for me to take a photo of a wide open space.

Little Colorado River in Winslow, Arizona

I emerged on the high desert approaching Winslow, Arizona, after passing through the cool forests of Payson, Pine, and Strawberry. I have no time for standing on the corner since I’ve been there and done that, as the saying goes. I’m feeling a bit anxious that I might be moving too slowly. It probably had something to do with leaving Phoenix later than planned, stopping at Starbucks and talking for a few minutes with regulars who wanted to hear about this trip, and then that u-turn I made to fetch some In & Out Burger that would be the last one I’d see for the next 8,000 miles (about 13,000km) I’ll be driving. Anyway, that’s the freeway out there crossing the Little Colorado River, and no, I’m not going to get on it to make up time. My commitment to this adventure of a backroads meander is holding fast.

SR87 on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

I passed a Native American hitchhiker as I drove into the Navajo and Hopi Nations. While I have the space, I don’t have the headspace to want to talk with a passenger. I feel guilty for leaving that man at the side of the road, but I’m looking for my voice out here and to have the intrusion of someone else’s, well, that risks crowding out my own. Part of me thinks he might have lent me inspiration, but then I’d be writing his story, not mine.

Horses near Dilkon, Arizona

It’s not that State Route 87 is too big a road; it is only two lanes, but this Indian Route 60 gets that much further out. There are no fences out here near Dilkon, and something about that makes the land feel infinitely more open.

Navajo Reservation on the US 191 near Nazlini

After turning right on Indian Route 15, I was greeted by a torrential downpour that would have been great had it not been for all the signs warning that I was in a flashflood area. Getting photos of the deluge proved impossible, not that shooting through a windshield ever produces great results, and there was no stopping under that storm as all I wanted to do was get out of the flashflood zone and hope it wouldn’t start hailing. This is the otherside of Greasewood looking back at what I drove through.

Near Lukachukai on the Navajo Reservation, Arizona

Dreams of better weather to the west while directly overhead are reminders that rain isn’t far away.

Near Lukachukai on the Navajo Reservation, Arizona

The dark clouds of monsoon season stayed behind me or to the right, leaving me with the sense they were pushing me along. I’d stopped in Chinle to talk with Caroline on the phone, though we’d been chatting the entire morning into the afternoon as I worked my way northeast. A friendly rez dog approached and shared in my quick roadside dinner of a boiled egg and a lettuce roast beef wrap. This reminds me that we don’t have dog food in the car for these moments. I encountered this red rock on the road out of Lukachukai, which took me on a steep, twisty road up over some mountains and brought me closer to New Mexico.

Approaching Red Valley, Arizona

Off in the distance is Shiprock, which calls New Mexico home.

Rainbow in front of the Red Valley Trading Post, Arizona

I stopped at the Red Valley Trading Post as Caroline voiced a wish for a trinket of some sort, but sadly, this trading post doesn’t offer such things. They did have an incredibly friendly rez dog out front and this rainbow, so I didn’t leave empty-handed.

At the Arizona and New Mexico State Lines near Red Valley and Shiprock

It’s growing late in the day, and while I should be reluctant to stop for even more photos, I can’t help myself. Plus, I need to remember that I planned this so I could go slow, stop frequently to see the world, consider things, maybe write a bit, and have the flexibility to take my time. Sometimes, it isn’t easy to let go of urgencies and the sense that we need to be somewhere.

Indian Service Route 13 in New Mexico near Shiprock

While it never rained on me again after leaving the Greasewood area, the threat of wet weather was ever present and mostly acted as beautiful reminders of what monsoon season in the desert looks like.

Shiprock, New Mexico

I had been disappointed that Shiprock was in shadow as I approached from the southwest, but here I am on its eastern flank, and a dramatic sky frames it ever so nicely. It was well after 9:00 p.m. when I pulled into Farmington, New Mexico, and found a motel. I set the alarm for 5:30 to get out early before sunrise to set up in a Starbucks to write this post, as the photos were prepped before I went to sleep. It’s 7:15 in the morning when I finish this. The sun is up, and I’m ready to continue this meander east, hopefully without buckets of rain along the way.

Going Out, But Not Too Far

Duncan, Arizona

This shift of place on the map, which is about 10% of the distance between our home and Tybee Island, Georgia, on the Atlantic Coast, might suggest we are out to collect new experiences and the taking in sights that will dazzle our senses, but no, we are here to indulge in the full scope of exercising the doing of next to nothing. Absolute nothing could imply post-decay or post-cremation following the demise of our living selves, but we will attempt to take strides that will either appear glacial or at least indulgently slow. To this end, while we are walking the streets of Duncan (of which there are not many) if anyone else moving around in the early hours were to see us, we would drop into the children’s game called Statue (some might know it as Freeze). Like cats, we assume they can’t really see us when we stop moving.

Beetle with long shadow in Duncan, Arizona

Not willing to move the car to take us somewhere nearby we may have never been before, our choices are limited to walking out the front door of the hotel, turning left or right, and then navigating the options where our feet can carry us. North seems the logical direction as that’s where the most amount of nature is potentially taking place. The Gila River appears to be playing the same game of Statue as us because, with only a trickle of water in its channel as the monsoons haven’t yet contributed to its flow, it might be better to refer to it as the Muddy Gila Creek, about to seize into a solid at any moment.

Datura in Duncan, Arizona

With an abundance of toxic plants in bloom, such as members of the nightshade family and a few rather large datura specimens like this one, we walk in the cool morning air, appreciating the lively black and red ants, discarded mini-bottles of alcohol, a fragile beetle clinging to life (not the one pictured above this image), a solitary crane, and the occasional rumble of semi-trucks hauling something or other to the copper mine north of us.

Ant Lion in Duncan, Arizona

Never, prior to last month anyway, had we seen an ant lion, but here we are today, seeing our second one in hardly more than a couple of weeks. I think god is signaling to us that this is the time to play the lottery. However, my logical mind takes umbrage with that cockamamy idea and reminds me that it’s likely flying ant lion season during the summer and that Caroline and I don’t get out enough during this time of year in our surrounding deserts. And I answer that with, “Who in their right mind goes from one place that’s over 105 degrees (40 Celsius) to another that is just as hot?” Obviously, we have, and we must, because maybe twenty years ago, we could play the having-all-the-time-in-the-world card, seeing that mortality hadn’t raised its head yet. Now we know it’s now or never.

Tree of Heaven in Duncan, Arizona

Only because we are here in summer are we becoming acquainted with the Tree of Heaven. We’ve walked by these trees many a time, but displaying its samaras (seeds), it caught our eye in ways it never had before. At other times of the year, it sits there, growing out of the earth all woody and green leafy with nothing that says, look at me, nor does it say smell me. I added that because another name for this tree is stinking sumac, and should you try to eradicate this invasive species from your neighborhood, it becomes known as the Tree of Hell. Cut it down, and its roots will reroute the tree, foiling your efforts to remove this persistent plant.

Breakfast at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

When Caroline and I were passing through for a couple of overnights back in April, I’d voiced that I’d love for Caroline to have the opportunity to sample Clayton’s version of eggs benedict using a dijonnaise instead of hollandaise, and so with that still in his memory, he was set up with the ingredients for exactly that this morning. I just searched my old posts and saw that I’d never mentioned this in posts about my visits earlier this year. A tragedy because the dish was well off the chart of amazing, and this morning delivered a perfect rendition of what I remembered. Stuffed, a trusty artificial intelligence informed me that the only relief to be found for this condition was to take a nap, and while there wasn’t a triclinium in sight, our bed worked just fine.

Caroline Wise in Duncan, Arizona

It’s now hours later with vague, fleeting images of moments of inactivity. Proper lunchtime had come and gone, and back then, I had been certain I was done eating until evening anyway. Apparently, I was wrong and could be convinced otherwise. Suffering from a sore backside being planted on a hardwood chair and running out of stuff to write about, a walk seemed in order, though my first thought was, why endure the heat of the day if it doesn’t arrive with some kind of reward for the effort? Choices involved the trusty Ranch House Restaurant, where we could share a little something before joining Deborah and Clayton once more for dinner, as we did last night, or we might dip into the ice cream shop that also offers sandwiches and occasionally burritos. Making these kinds of decisions on a weekend when we are practicing our Statue routine almost felt like too much effort. Then, only minutes later, we were sharing a toasted turkey, ham, and green chili sandwich at the River’s Roadside Cafe, and afterward, Caroline tried a scoop of their Oatmeal Cream Pie ice cream.

A Woodhouse Toad in Duncan, Arizona

Dark clouds have arrived, but the forecast says storms are a no-go for today. Darn, a bit of storming would have been a delight, pushing this weekend into perfection. Who am I fooling, though? Things were already perfect, except we were running a deficit of steps needed to make our exercise routine mostly complete, mostly because we’d still fall short, though not by much. Good thing our lack of drive was overcome because out on the wild streets of Duncan, we encountered a bunch of hungry woodhouse toads strolling the streets along with us while bats worked the skies, grabbing the insects the toads would never reach. As for Caroline and I, we don’t voluntarily make a habit of eating bugs, but when we do, they should be properly prepared in a succulent and tasty dish.

Happy 4th of July from Oregon

Fogbow at Depoe Bay, Oregon

The exit portal found in this fogbow opened at the rocky shore of Depoe Bay, allowing Caroline and me the chance to begin the process of leaving Oregon. Without the fogbow, we’d have been stuck here on the coast; not a bad thing, mind you, but we do have other places to be, such as Santa Fe, New Mexico, next week. Now I’m getting ahead of myself – more about that trip later. For now, I have to contend with the situation that we are taking the next four days to drive back to Arizona, which also implies that there will be no blogging during those days and I’ll fall behind, but who’s not up for a big challenge?

R2D2 on the side of Highway 101 in Oregon

It’s the 4th of July today, Independence Day for the United States, where we celebrate the birth of our country, and this Star Wars fan sent R2-D2 out to the curb armed with the stars and stripes to remind everyone to give a nod to this special day.

Mindy and Caroline Wise in Yachats, Oregon

The original departure plan called for us not to get out of the car before we were south of Florence, but that couldn’t really be adhered to anyway, as we knew we’d stop in at the Newport Cafe for yet another yummy Pacific Seafood Scramble. Somehow, we managed to skip one more stop at Boiler Bay to look for whales, but reaching Yachats and seeing that the farmer’s market was happening on this holiday, we had to stop, and good thing we did. Not only did we score another loaf of sourdough from Mindy the Baker, but across from her, we met Broom Chick. Twenty years or more ago, Caroline and I bought a handmade gnarled corn broom at the Renaissance Festival in Arizona. While it’s well worn, we use it to this day. Well, that might not be true much longer as Caroline thought it was high time to replace it, and Samantha the Broom Chick herself, was selling her brooms at the market, and it turns out that it was her company that made our old broom, too. Sadly, we learned that we wouldn’t be able to have our relic given a makeover, so it’ll become our outside broom, and the new one will take its place in our kitchen. [We also stopped one more time at the Green Salmon for more herbal tea of the Crater Lake variety and a couple of mushroom-themed souvenirs. – Caroline]

Thor's Well at Cape Perpetua in Yachats, Oregon

Nope, this is not Florence. We have pulled over near Cape Perpetua south of Yachats for one more look at Thor’s Well hoping that since it is shortly after low tide, we might get a better look into the well. That didn’t quite happen, as you can see for yourself the fountain of water splashing out of this amazing natural feature. Being too close could be life-threatening.

Heceta Head Lighthouse in Florence, Oregon

Here at Heceta Head Lighthouse, we are closer to Florence, but still 13 miles north means we were stopping again.

Sea Gypsy Cottage Gallery in Florence, Oregon

Incorrigible could be our middle name while traveling because here we are, just a few more miles south, and a pond across from Woahink Lake captured our attention. As soon as we were out of the car, something else caught our eyes. This Sea Gypsy inviting people into a gallery was on duty, but I was resilient to Caroline’s pleading and held fast to the idea that we didn’t have the time for a visit.

Water lilies across from Woahink Lake in Florence, Oregon

Of course, we did have time to take photos of the lily pads and their blossoms, as we’d never seen this pond blooming before. Or maybe we had, but neither of us had a memory of such.

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area Waxmyrtle Campground in Dunes City, Oregon

We made it past Florence and were able to skip another stop at the Happy Kamper Yarn Barn, made easier as it was closed. We also drove right by the Darlingtonia site, but did pull over here at the Waxmyrtle Campground at Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area in Dunes City.

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area Carter Lake Campground in Dunes City, Oregon

We didn’t get far before taking yet another right turn off Highway 101 into the Carter Lake Campground, also part of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.

Tahkenitch Lake in Gardiner, Oregon

For more than 20 years, we’ve wanted a photograph of Tahkenitch Lake in Gardiner, but getting to a place with a good, clear view was never easy, nor was it today. The “official” overlook one might hope to catch is overgrown, but today’s weather was so perfect we just had to finally figure this out. We located glimpses of the lake through the trees driving back to the north, then parked as far off the road and walked along a narrow piece of the highway to where we could see the lake. Caroline felt she could navigate our way through the dense undergrowth and brambles over the steep terrain, and sure enough, she got us to a small clearing that offered us the greatest view ever of this wild landscape.

Caroline Wise at Driftwood Farms Yarn shop in Reedsport, Oregon

For her terrific pathfinding effort, I rewarded her with a visit to the Driftwood Farms Yarn shop in Reedsport, which, being open, helped in this special gift of mine. Heck, I even offered her a small budget for yarn and roving from my personal bank account that may or may not actually be a shared account that her paycheck is deposited into, but that’s of no real concern. What’s important is my incredible generosity letting her spend her own money.

This stop was a twofer, as we finally learned about My Yarn Shop, which used to be located in Coos Bay, further south of us. That shop in Coos Bay has been closed for a long time. It turns out that its owner, Judy Mogan, heiress to a lumber company, had passed away, and the family working to settle that part of her estate worked out a deal with the owner of Driftwood Farms for her to take on the extensive, seriously absurd, collection of yarn that Judy had amassed. I cannot emphasize enough just how large a collection of yarn was stuffed into her retail space on South Broadway in Coos Bay. It was literally tons of yarn that is now in the possession of Kim and her daughter and business partner, Jessica. Anyone interested in buying random 100-skein boxes of mystery yarn should reach out to the ladies for a real yarn bargain.

Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge in Bandon, Oregon

Here we are at Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge in Bandon, and because I can’t bring you here myself, I’m including plenty of photos so you can get some small sense of how perspective and position on the bluffs or on the beach can greatly alter the view and make this one of the great stops on the coast. Today the weather was great, but the winds quite strong, making it a bit difficult to stand near the cliff edge.

Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge in Bandon, Oregon

The same place zoomed in. Pretty, isn’t it?

Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge in Bandon, Oregon

Looking to our right from the overlook. We never tire of this view. Off to my right is Cosmo, the Tufted Puffin statue, whose photo (under cloudier conditions) I shared on a previous visit.

Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge in Bandon, Oregon

Down here on the beach below the Coquille Point, there was no escaping the heavy winds either, nor could we escape the intense beauty of it all.

Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge in Bandon, Oregon

The third and final view south down the coast.

Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint in Bandon, Oregon

While Face Rock is just a short drive south of where we just were, this is not looking to the south but is more northwest.

Devils Kitchen in Bandon, Oregon

This being a trip of zooming into the map for any hint of places that might offer us beach access, we discovered this new-to-us location known as Devils Kitchen, also in Bandon.

Devils Kitchen in Bandon, Oregon

The previous view was looking north. This is the view to the south, our direction of travel today.

Hotdog from Langlois Market in Langlois, Oregon

Once again, our entire trip has been centered around the idea that we had to make another pilgrimage to the Langlois Market in, you guessed it, Langlois, Oregon. This small town carries big heft as this little shop has sold over 1,519,845 of their world-famous hot dogs served with their secret mustard and great pickles, though we skipped the onions that should be there, too.

Iris at Floras Lake and the Boice-Cope Park in Langlois, Oregon

As I said, we are zooming into maps, and this find, also in Langlois, is at Floras Lake and the Boice-Cope Park.

Kiteboarding on Floras Lake in Langlois, Oregon

Neither Caroline nor I had any idea that watching a bunch of people kitesurfing would be so exhilarating. These talented weavers, who use massive sails to drag them across the calm waters of Floras Lake, are seriously talented athletes who fly at high speed over the surface of the lake.

Beach next to Floras Lake in Langlois, Oregon

While we could have stayed at the lake for hours, the nearby beach beckoned, but only for a few minutes.

Kiteboarding on Floras Lake in Langlois, Oregon

And then we were right back at the lake watching people flying into the sky, then landing again before the wind recaptured their kite, caught hold after they turned around, and had them speeding away from us.

Garrison Lake in Port Orford, Oregon

As much as I could have stayed there forever, mesmerized by the potential that someone was going to fly off into the ocean, Caroline reminded me that we would probably want to check into our motel before midnight. But then, approaching Port Orford, she spotted Garrison Lake on the map and told me to make a turn and go this way and that. While I might have had a differing opinion about this situation, she, being the navigator, effectively tricked me into not only breaking the spell kiteboarding was having on me but she had me going somewhere that wasn’t our cheap-ass motel.

Fawn at Garrison Lake in Port Orford, Oregon

“But John, I know how much you enjoy seeing fawns because you once told me it was the first movie you remember seeing at the drive-in movie theater in Buffalo, New York, when you were only four or five…and how you cried when Bambi’s mom was shot. I thought you’d like coming out here to see fawns. Google’s mapping service showed me that there were three young deer frolicking by the shore.” What? Excuse me? Then Caroline tried convincing me that just as they show Dunkin’ Donuts and Starbucks on maps, they added wildlife sightings, too. I think she’s pulling that roving she bought earlier over my eyes.

Garrison Lake in Port Orford, Oregon

Strange how a dozen miles north, the wind was nearly howling and here at Garrison Lake, things were as calm as could be, tranquil even.

Sweet Pea at Tseriadun State Recreation Site in Port Orford, Oregon

You have no idea how many times Caroline and I have shared between us that we feel like we’ve seen everything there is to see on the Oregon coast, but this trip has turned out to be an eye-opener. We have arrived at Tseriadun State Recreation Site, also in Port Orford, late in the day, as in after 8:00 p.m. These flowers are sweet peas, a toxic plant if eaten, but perfectly delightful to be gazed upon.

Caroline Wise at Tseriadun State Recreation Site in Port Orford, Oregon

So much to see, so little time, though our opportunities are greater than most others. We are grateful.

Tseriadun State Recreation Site in Port Orford, Oregon

We are also incredibly fortunate. To have started the day with a fogbow and now to be greeted by a sun dog, effectively a sun rainbow.

Tseriadun State Recreation Site in Port Orford, Oregon

A funny thing happened on the way to the sunset on the other side of a giant rock separating the two halves of the beach here: my camera battery malfunctioned. I took a spectacular photo of this very location with my phone, but the colors are hysterically out of sync with the tones I achieve with my DSLR. I liked the image enough to share it on Facebook – click here to see it. Having never heard of this beach, our expectations were low, but after visiting, we’ll make a note to return again one day.

Tseriadun State Recreation Site in Port Orford, Oregon

This final photo south of Port Orford, just before the sunset, will have to stand in for our fireworks shot because, at 10:00 from the balcony at Motel 6 in Gold Beach, our photos turned out horribly. We didn’t try very hard, and I only used my phone as I was too lazy to set up for shooting under poor lighting conditions. It was after all already a 17-hour day of impressions, and it was so nice to simply watch the beautiful show and listen to the crazy echoes bouncing off the adjacent mountain across the Rogue River. Wow, we’ve stumbled into another perfect 4th of July. Happy birthday, America! We hope you can survive this existential crisis you are suffering through.

Never Ending Oregon Adventure

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Out at the fog line between Fogarty Creek and Gleneden Beach, two whales were working the seas early, letting us have one more in the countless number of whale sightings we’ve experienced on this trip. Our first stop was once again at Boiler Bay, where we’ve had such great luck with whale watching.

North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

North Fogarty Creek Beach was the destination where we collected our steps this morning. That we’d be foiled in getting all we wanted wasn’t known just yet.

Sea Stars at North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Little did we suspect it would be low tide and that we’d run into this family of sea stars posing in the hopes of becoming internet famous.

North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Draining sands leave incredible patterns when the tide recedes into the ocean.

North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

And not all the patterns are the same.

North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Like I said.

North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

The rock formations way out act as a breakwater for the waves, leaving this part of the shore temporarily calm until the waves return to breaking over the walls.

Caroline Wise at North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Choosing what to do and see next requires studied consideration from Caroline.

Anemone at North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

As for me, I just look for more anemones, mussels, barnacles with large peduncles, and sea stars.

North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Barnacles on an island deny me an inspection of their clustering families.

Fresh Rockfall at North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This is a very recent rockfall, likely in the past hours, as nearby we saw other footprints and dog paw impressions on this side of the beach which is not accessible during high tide but they were obviously left recently in wet sand close to the waterline. We could see how high the tide had been in other parts of the beach and the sand underneath the fallen rocks was clearly smoothed by its lapping water during the night. The smaller chips and stones were absolutely undisturbed and looked fresh.

Bald Eagle at North Fogarty Creek Beach in Depoe Bay, Oregon

A couple of gulls were seen chasing this bald eagle away, and its presence wasn’t enjoyed by the pigeon guillemots who were hanging out on the edges of Fishing Rock. In case you were wondering about the coloring, juvenile bald eagles are dark.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

For the duration of this trip and during previous visits over the years, we’ve been calling this general area Boiler Bay, and while that’s correct (the wayside is officially called Boiler Bay State Park), the spit of land that juts furthest into the sea and which we are standing on was, in the past, more commonly called Government Point.

Caroline Wise at Elsie's Discount Roving in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This is not always the easiest shop to visit. We were just about to give up when the owner stepped out of her home and asked if she could help us. That person was Elsie, the proprietor of Elsie’s Discount Roving in Depoe Bay, and those two rugs are going home with us.

Caroline Wise at Gilgamesh Brewing in Lincoln City, Oregon

On Sunday, Caroline and I stopped in at the Lincoln City Outlets, looking for a few things, such as jeans and a couple of books. My very old pair of jeans that have been worn during many a winter in Arizona, trips to Europe, and here in the cold summer environment of Oregon have given out. Caroline tried performing an emergency repair, but with each squat for a photo, I was putting too much pressure on the crotch that has been hanging low due to my significant weight loss since the jeans were purchased. No luck at the store, so I ordered those online later that night. The books we wanted were The Hidden Life of Trees: What They Feel, How They Communicate by Peter Wohlleben and The Overstory by Richard Powers, also about trees. Unfortunately, here in the heavily forested lands of coastal Oregon, the bookshop didn’t have either. Walking through the outlets on that day, Caroline considered trying a beer at Gilgamesh Brewing, hoping for an Enkidu brew.  We decided to give them a try today since she won’t be around for happy hour with her coworkers on Friday. They missed the opportunity to brand one of their brews Enkidu, and so Caroline settled on a flight. [My favorite were the Mamba ale and DJ Jazzy Hef hefeweizen (I’m not a fan of some of these names), but the IPAs/pale ales were nice and also the coffee-infused beer. – Caroline]

Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

Also, this past Sunday saw us hiking the Lower Cascade Head Trail. I already wrote about my underlying tensions of being on popular trails in that day’s post. This here was the alternative I had wanted to hike; it is the Cascade Head Rainforest Trail that we are getting in before leaving Depoe Bay tomorrow.

Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

Ferns add vibrant green accents to much of what we see in the forests up here, but maybe because they are so ubiquitous, I seem to neglect paying enough attention to focusing on them exclusively.

Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

So often, many of the most beautiful mini-gardens are found growing out of the broken stumps and fallen trees that adorn the forest.

Banana slug on the Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

Kind of ironic that this is the biggest banana slug we’ve ever seen, and we didn’t have a banana with us to show the scale of this giant. I could tell you that it was larger than my hands, but for all you know I might have tiny Trump hands.

Salmonberry on the Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

Salmonberries! This trail is now depleted of these tasty morsels as we ate them all. Seriously, we must have munched on no less than 40 each.

Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

While we’ve experienced plenty of the coast and low tides on this extended stay in Oregon, I’d hardly gotten enough rainforest therapy, so this was just what I needed to balance it all.

Cascade Head Rainforest Trail in Otis, Oregon

At a point, we made the conscious decision to avoid the Carl G. Washburne State Park with its China Creek Loop via Valley Trail on this trip, as that is likely our favorite trail on the entire coast, and we’d like it to remain that way. This decision was based on our experience on Amanda’s Trail south of Yachats and the dearth of mushrooms. We figured it’s too dry a time of year for those fungi and that China Creek Loop likely holds a significant part of its enchantment due to mushrooms and newts that prefer wetter times of the year.

Neskowin Beach in Neskowin, Oregon

When we were at Gilgamesh Brewing, Brandon, our server, picked up on Caroline’s German accent and consequently shared with her his time studying in Tubingen. When asked about the cost of living on the coast, he told us that he shares a tiny 300-square-foot studio with his wife for $800 a month up in Neskowin (just up the road from Lincoln City), which reminded Caroline that we’d not visited the Proposal Rock area up there yet like we’d wanted to. With the negative tides, the Neskowin Ghost Forest should have been well exposed, too bad we’d gotten carried away with the tide pools. All the same, we decided to visit the beach up there, seeing how the Cascade Head is just south of the area.

Caroline Wise at Neskowin Beach in Neskowin, Oregon

Wind on our last full day on this central part of the coast was all the reason Caroline needed to bring Happy McKiteFace out so it might feel the wind one more time under its wings.

Proposal Rock at Neskowin Beach in Neskowin, Oregon

This is Proposal Rock on Neskowin Beach, and somewhere behind it are the Ghost Trees that are named such because an earthquake caused a subduction event and landslide that saw the trees drop into the ocean and then get broken off and buried in a subsequent tsunami. The trees are best (or maybe only) seen at low tide and that wasn’t happening tonight. Caroline did manage to find a full can of La Croix grapefruit soda on the beach and that was enough of a reward for us.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Look at these two growing older farts, falling into the subduction zone of aging and getting buried in a tsunami of memories. While this time up in Oregon has been a “remote working” opportunity, both of us feel that the whole thing has been like a vacation.

Sunset at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Of course, we had to stop in at Boiler Bay yet again with the hopes of spotting more whales. Though they weren’t to be seen, we did find this awesome sunset just hanging out, waiting to be appreciated. We offered it what it needed, and in return, it gave us everything we needed before heading back to the house in Depoe Bay for our last dip in the hot tub.

A Bunch of Random Stuff on the Oregon Coast

View south from Cape Foulweather in Otter Creek, Oregon

Sometimes, a mystery should remain so. We kept seeing a sign directing us to a historic marker on the side of the road, but only when we were driving north, so we’d often miss the small turnoff when we were wending our way south. This morning, we took our time, determined to stop at this mystery spot. The small road turned out to be an alternative way to Cape Foulweather, but this couldn’t be it; why wouldn’t the sign say such? Well, there’s a fork on that small road, would the historic point must be on it? Nope. Swinging around, we saw the sign again, except this time, we saw that it clearly said Cape Foulweather Historic Point. How’d we miss that so many times in the past weeks? [Because just after the sign for Cape Foulweather there was another sign for “historic point” without the additional info, leading me to believe (incorrectly) that there was a second one – Caroline]

Yaquina Head Lighthouse seen from Moolack Beach overlook in Newport, Oregon

How often have we stopped at the Moolack Beach Overlook gazing south towards Yaquina Head Lighthouse in Newport, Oregon? Countless times is exactly how many. We only have two things in mind today: the first was to get breakfast at Newport Cafe for the Pacific Seafood Scramble, and the second was to visit Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence.

Kouign-amann (Queen Ah-Mon) from How We Roll Bakery at the Newport Farmers Market in Newport, Oregon

Breakfast was already out of the way when Caroline and I simultaneously spotted the Newport Farmers Market in full swing, and with easy parking available, we were there in a second. The first vendor we spoke with was Frances O’Halloran, owner of LoveJoy Botanicals, who sold Caroline a bottle of Strawberry Rhubarb Rose Shrub, and just before we walked away, she clambered for a bag to show us a purchase she’d made that morning, here at the market, over at How We Roll Bakery. She insisted that we JUST HAD TO go buy some Kouign-Amann (pronounced Queen Ah-Mon). This photo shows those pastries, and they are indeed spectacular. Roy and Jenn are the proprietors of this obviously popular market stand, witnessed by the long line. We were told, or was it warned, that we’d love them just as everyone else has and that maybe two wouldn’t be enough and that soon they’d be sold out. Good thing we were just coming from a big breakfast. Otherwise, I think we could have bought four for each of us and made these the first meal of our day. A laminated pastry with butter, sugar, cardamon, and a ‘hint of salt,’ this couple has perfected their technique.

Patina Thai Jewel Beetle Wing Pendant from Amy J. Pattison in Newport, Oregon

Our next purchase was from Amy Jilliane Pattison, who makes these Thai Jewel Beetle Wing pendants; Caroline also snagged a sea glass pendant.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

Uncertain if we’d ever stopped at this particular location, Caroline asked me to pull into the Seal Rock State Recreation Site. Without a real plan, that’s where we are, on our way to the overlook.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This mammoth basalt formation, a sea stack called Elephant Rock, appears to have formed between 15-16 million years ago by the Columbia River lava flow. Here are some amazing scientific facts about that event that lasted millions of years. That flow released 105,633 cubic miles (170,000 cubic kilometers) of lava that flowed from eastern Oregon down to the mouth of the Columbia River, where it turned left and traveled more than 100 more miles until reaching this very area right here, Seal Rock, Oregon. To help you visualize just how much lava that was, if it was water covering the entirety of the continental United States, everywhere would be covered with almost 70 feet of water.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

I legitimately thought I was done with tide pools; I really don’t have anything left in me to say about tide pools during this visit to coastal Oregon, other than, to my surprise, we arrived at low tide and found more mussels, barnacles, seaweed, small fish, sea stars, and anemones.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

The problem is that I’m compelled to share more photos of it all because, though I’m at a loss of words, we never tire of seeing the intertidal life that lives right next to us humans.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

I have no idea what the greenish-brownish brain-like stuff is, but I believe that the shell and pebble collection belongs to anemones that are camouflaged by this debris.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

My only excuse for another anemone photo is that these aren’t green.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

But the seaweed is green, and the geology is beautiful.

Great Blue Heron at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This great blue heron represents a conflict of opinion between Caroline and myself. You see when I have too many photos chosen for a post, I’ll bring my wife over to help prune my overzealous enthusiasm to overshare. In this case, our choices didn’t agree, so I’m sharing her pick first, separating two heron photos by the following beautiful reflection of a fossilized giant shark fin.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

Just kidding about the fossil, but you can see the resemblance, I’m sure.

Great Blue Heron at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

And now the same heron, looking north with ruffled feathers after shaking itself following the eating of a fish.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

Still in the Seal Rock area, we couldn’t be certain if we’d ever visited the Driftwood State Park before, so we’ll visit it now, possibly not for the first time.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

We’ve been smitten by this effect of clouds of steam that are rising out of beach sands. The motion of the moisture floating up is mesmerizing and is better seen on video or, better yet, in person, but this blog is not a vlog, as all this dialogue would move my creations out of TikTok shorts into feature-length films.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

How nice it was for someone to erect this cairn so we wouldn’t lose our way off Driftwood Beach.

Vista Point on Highway 101 in Florence, Oregon

For the astute, they might notice I’m looking north, and that’s because I think the views both north and south are tremendous.

Pacific Ocean Vista Point on Highway 101 in Florence, Oregon

This is the view south from the Pacific Ocean Vista Point pullout, the direction in which we are still traveling.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

The carnivorous Darlingtonia lays in wait for the next over-rambunctious child to fall into its maw. Do you see those red blood vessels running up the side of it? It’s hungry for an innocent unsuspecting life. Those forked appendages under its monsterish green head act as both a bib and napkin for cleaning up after devouring the next mammal that gets too close.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

This is the blooming flower of the Darlingtonia that only does so in May and June, hence why it was so important to make a special trip down this way.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

We’ve visited this tiny patch of carnivorous plants previously. They are only found in Northern California and Southern Oregon in bog-like areas.

Berries at Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

Growing in the same area were these berry vines. I’d like to identify the variety, but Oregon is chock-a-block full of berry varietals, so I’m not going to even try. What I can tell you is that while they weren’t fully ripe yet, they were tasty.

Hemitomes congestum a.k.a. the gnome plant at Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

A woman also visiting the Darlingtonias and hanging out for a good long time while others came and went was sharing travel notes with us and asked if we’d seen these things nearby. We’d not, so she showed us where they were, and it turned out that they were a rare find. Their formal name is Hemitomes congestum, with a common name of the gnome plant. In the family of Hemitomes, it is the only member of that branch. Little is known about the gnome plant, and it’s only speculated that its lack of chlorophyll is due to a parasitic relationship with a fungus from which it gathers its nutrients.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

The last photo of the day is from Seal Rock Beach, as seen from an overlook.  Out there in the sea on the left by the rocks surrounded by water, that’s where we were exploring tide pools and saw the Great Blue Heron. A late lunch/early dinner once again at Ona Restaurant in Yachats and a cold brew in Newport from Dutch Bros were the final activities of another busy Saturday.

Not Doing Much on the Oregon Coast

Seagull at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Maybe my bird brain was telling me that if I didn’t take many photos, I’d knock out Friday’s post lickety-split and not fall behind, but here I am on Monday, searching my noggin for any details of what we were doing just three days ago, and if it weren’t for these images refreshing my memory of our physical locations, I don’t think I’d have anything to go by. There were no notes, no whales, no trails discovered for the first time; it was a day on the coast with walks along the sea in order to collect steps and not only spend time next to the woods in the cozy house in which we’ve been luxuriating.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Since Caroline found out the path in front of the local timeshare property [otherwise a behemoth eyesore – Caroline] is open to the public, and it takes us past the rookery of murres, cormorants, and gulls on a small island just off the shore, we’ve been enjoying the commotion, nest building (a few sea gull chicks have already hatched), and the crashing waves hitting the rocky shore. This was it from our morning at the shore.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

When afternoon rolled around, we showed up at Boiler Bay with my zoom lens. As we’ve had so many sightings of whales, we figured there was a good chance we’d see more today. That didn’t work out: not a whale in sight.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Having the 70-200mm lens did give me the opportunity to practice using it after an extended break from shooting with it. Am I out of practice, or am I fooling myself into believing I can use such a heavy lens without a tripod? Most of the images I took are of poor quality with far too much blur. I probably took 50 photos of cormorants nesting in shadows on a steep cliffside; not one of them was worth sharing. When the wind wasn’t blowing, plants made for good subjects.

Cormorant at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

We’ve been watching the cormorants, presumably the males, leaving their mates on cliffside perches to fetch food and nesting materials. When these birds take off after a diving session, it takes a moment for them to shed enough water from their wings to get well above the surface, and until then, their little feet seem to run above the surface as their wings continue to splash along with each flap until after about six to eight beats, they are again on their way to gaining altitude.

Seal at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

From our position on shore, the seals laying in the sun seemingly always have their butts facing us, while in the water, they often are taking glances at us shore things.

Murres at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

At full zoom, my photos do not show a fraction of how amazing these murres appear. Through our binoculars, that’s another story. The flight of these penguin-looking birds is curious as they beat their wings furiously, not anywhere as fast as hummingbirds, but comically in some way, and they fly quickly. When the cormorants return to nests, they carry food in their beaks, while the murres utilize a gular pouch which is located between their beaks and their chests and allows them to carry the food instead of their stomach, which is another method used by some birds for feeding their young.

Sunset over Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

So, this has been our version of not doing much, yet it felt like a full and complete day stuffed with wonderful experiences and sights that should leave anybody happy for weeks into their future.