Even More Grand Canyon

Bright Angel Lodge at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not our first time staying at the Bright Angel Lodge and not our last. Of course, we’d love to stay at the El Tovar every time, but it’s not always easy to snag a room, and at times, it’s quite pricey.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Out into the cold dawn of a Grand Canyon morning as those first rays of sun catching the rim edges always capture our sense of delight.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

America, seen in its flag, in its vastness, and in its immense beauty, is something to be incredibly proud of, but also standing behind that symbol is an immensity of hate, poverty of intellect, and systemic inequality. I have to remind myself when experiencing the great fortune of being able to place ourselves in so many iconic locations that we are profoundly lucky, though intention plays a large role, too. Still, we feel privileged to gaze upon scenes such as this. The point here is that I can’t take for granted that I was by birthright given this opportunity in life to stand in astonishment while simultaneously afforded the responsibility to recognize our collective faults and struggle, if need be, to do what I can in some small capacity to improve not only myself but those around me and our country.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Transitioning into illumination as the light of day descends into the depths of a person, place, or thing, the gravity of its heft, potential, and scope comes into clear view. Keeping a thing, person, or idea in darkness serves nothing aside from allowing a small minority to isolate the coveted opportunity afforded the select few, the riches that arrive with seeing things for what they are, regardless of how difficult it is to grasp their breadth of complexity.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at El Tovar in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As faces and smiles come into focus, we are gazing into the depths of experience that will convey lies, truths, ignorance, hate, love, or any multitude of infinities spread across time that have shaped those people we are encountering. In this sense, we find the Grand Canyon in every person we meet, but rarely do we have the time to hike its depths so that we might better appreciate the extent of where this person’s flow has taken them.

Hot Chocolate at El Tovar at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Then, in a relatively superficial moment, sitting in warm luxury at the edge of reality, a treat creates a shared experience that defines the bonds that bring us closer together in our humanity. If we spend a lifetime tossing vitriol at the ears of each other trying to convince one another of perceived evils, we’ll grow to hate even those we love. Instead, we should sit together, sip hot chocolate, and smile not only at each other but also at the sun that is rising to paint another beautiful day.

El Tovar at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Smile at the memory of the unknown architects who designed this and the surrounding buildings, giving us a sense of place in our southwest parks that endures to this day. By the way, the El Tovar was designed by Charles Frederick Whittlesey, who happens to have been the business partner of Mary Jane Colter, who designed Hopi House next door (pictured below) and a number of other buildings of significance here at the Grand Canyon.

Hopi House at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

With the many times we’ve been to the Grand Canyon and the number of blog posts I’ve made, I’ve likely celebrated this badass woman of the early 20th century more than a few times, maybe writing exactly the same thing but I can’t emphasize enough how she’s up there with women such as Lou Andreas-Salomé and Zaha Hadid as inspirations to my sense of what is a strong intellectual woman.

Hopi House at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not in a thousand years could glass and steel reflect a fraction of the beauty that these buildings offer visitors to this national park.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

You can’t see them from this photo, but you know that the clouds drifting over the canyon are helping us visitors see things in a much more dynamic way compared to if we were here on a cloudless day.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Before marriage, before children, without pets, when life has minor responsibilities, aspiring writers, artists, musicians, and philosophers should consider a gig of working a year or two here in the canyon or maybe up at Yellowstone, as I can only imagine that an extended meditation in these environments will forever change one’s life.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Maybe I could be so fortunate to one day when I am able to settle into being quiet here at the canyon, not needing to record everything I see; I could just sit in contemplation of the time that’s been at work shaping this amazing place.

Scrub Jay at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I don’t remember seeing scrub jays on previous visits; maybe I couldn’t see the tree through the forest. And now, this visit we are seeing a few of them.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I’m here, searching my head, struggling to find something profound to say about pollen cones and the leaves of this tree that could begin to share what it is in me that finds this view so appealing. This should act as my proof that these writing exercises are, but attempts at entertaining a hobby and ultimate mastery may never materialize; then again, I can admit that even when I’m not inspired by any particular genius, I do enjoy trying to find ways into my mind where I might discover a little something that has a bit of sparkle.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

A million years ago, this view wouldn’t have looked just like it does today, not even one hundred thousand years ago would an early human have been gazing upon the exact same image. The rarity of what we see is one of the great treasures of being here in our time; it is mostly unique to our perspective and the precise moment we took out of the multitude of other things that occupy us to see the uncommon. If only we could understand that almost everything we’ll ever see as humans is sublimely uncommon and always incredible.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

These closeup shots of details that don’t offer broad vistas in the background or show uncommon animals, rare plants, or the trash of careless tourists are the things that, when we are present in the Grand Canyon, shape the entire experience, even if our focus and center of attention is the massive canyon and extraordinary colors of earth spread out in every direction.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

How many of my fellow humans, the millions of them that have visited this park since I was born, have also looked at this tree? Has even one of them recognized that it is here?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

How will I ever truly reassemble a day in photographs and words that transcend the scale and potential meaning that even a countless number of those things that I might capture impact my memories as much as the real experience?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As much as I never want to leave and have the images of grandeur slip out of view and fade from memory, I must allow what I was so lucky to witness in this brief visit to be captured by those who will follow. Is it by design that the poverty of narrative can never act as a viable surrogate to bring others into the real experiences of those who journey into remote corners?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

What might have been in the hole that wouldn’t also have been outside of it? Now, if this had been a cave occupied by people instead of an attempt to establish a mine, I’d think that someone was looking for signs of the culture that called this home, but it’s a mine.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

This here then begs the question, at almost regular intervals, sediments were laid down that compacted into harder rock than the layers between them that are crumbling in erosion and disappearing. Were those lake beds at one time, or did the sea that deposited the thicker layers disappear for a time?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Hey Pixar, instead of making movies about talking potatoes and cars, how about throwing your skills at making a movie about the formation of our earth and the passage of time? I can’t be the only nerd who’d like to see this evolutionary process in great detail as a timelapse.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not only is this blog post winding down, but so is our time here at the Grand Canyon. As we finish our re-encounter with this place that is simultaneously ancient and old while also familiar and new, we’ll once again try to bring the enormity of it all with us.

Supergroup Stromatolite at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

A petrified fish eye behind the beak of a turtle is what I see in this rock. I can only wonder what the interpretation of the canyon is to the many pairs of eyes and countless minds that try to experience see when they are visiting.

A Raven at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Maybe a bird finding contentedness soaring over an infinite landscape is a better place to be than the curious human who can never find enough answers to an insatiable curiosity.

Forgotten Oregon II – Day 1

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

If you’ve read the previous two travel posts that were titled “Forgotten…” you might have noticed that there was a Day Zero entry that this one is missing. Well, there wasn’t a single photo of our drive from Phoenix, Arizona, to Goleta, California, where we had booked a room at the Motel 6 on Calle Real.

The reason that I’m pointing out that we stayed on Calle Real is that right across the street was where we wanted to take the person traveling with us for breakfast, Backyard Bowls. We fell in love with their acai bowls and hot porridges on previous visits to our great aunt and uncle Burns, who lived right up the street.

We have 485 miles scheduled for today’s drive, but since most of it will be on Highway 1 and knowing how slow we will be, had we not staged ourselves on the north side of Los Angeles, we’d never get to Oregon. Not that we are going to arrive in Oregon at the end of this day but it is the main destination of this vacation.

With us is Caroline R. I’m leaving her relatively anonymous as she represents another friendship we wrecked. We were out here to share coastal Highway 1 with her since, if my memory serves me, she’d never been out on this stretch of scenic beauty. So, it was obligatory that we’d stop at a few key locations for her to visit the more iconic places, according to John and Caroline anyway.

The elephant seals are from a colony hanging out in the shadow of the closed Piedras Blancas Motel.

Maybe you are wondering now that I’ve baited you, how did we dash another friendship upon the rocks?  It was during this, our first trip with Caroline R., that we learned that we really weren’t compatible traveling with her, but a larger can of worms was looming on the horizon. We’d already invited her to join us on a whitewater trip into the Yukon and Alaska to raft the Alsek River the following summer, and it was at the end of that rafting trip that everything unraveled. After the Oregon trip, we tried, again and again, to let her know that it was okay if she felt like backing out of Alaska, but she never picked up on the clues, and we were too chickenshit to tell her that, while we loved meeting with her and her husband in Phoenix, we felt that traveling with her was unbearable to us. But why, John? For some people, it seems they are more comfortable sharing what they don’t like than what they do like. We, on the other hand, don’t need others to constantly point out where things could be better. Who cares about those details when you are where you are in the circumstances as they are?

That’s Caroline R. behind my Caroline W. One wants to have fun while the other has none.

Like all things, that too will pass; the clouds will clear, and we’ll take what we need from this trip. After all, our travels are about seeing the cup overflowing, as it’s never half full.

In the multi-verse of John, like two mirrors in a roadside bathroom, you can choose to see the version of your choice. If I’m just the simple reflection of surface John, I might have been wearing my Dumas persona (French spelling of Dumbass), but when you catch me about four layers deeper, there’s a different version, maybe the one Caroline fell in love with. That’s not an invitation for anyone else to fall in love with me, just me acknowledging that nobody ever really knows which version of a person they are looking at.

This version of Caroline is the anti-window one. You see (well, actually, you don’t), the Big Creek Bridge of Big Sur is right behind her. Most people want to capture the bridge; we’ve done that plenty of times, but I never can have enough of that smiling face.

You could ask Caroline at any time if she’s had enough of gazing out on a silvery ocean, and I can assure you she’d tell you, “Never!”

These sweets on display are not even my favorites from the Big Sur Bakery. I suppose a favorite hardly matters as the truth of it is I don’t care what I have from here because when we stop for a pastry and coffee, whatever we’re having is an instant favorite. Is it really all that special? Of course not, but the setting and the location make everything here absolutely amazing.

The trail to Garrapata Beach because we will “never” travel the Big Sur coast and not stop here unless the weather is so bad that we can’t be inconvenienced.

This is building up to be a perfect day.

These are the kind of bird photos I typically only get to shoot when in an aviary, my lucky day.

It might be difficult to see accurately in this photo, but the crest of the wave is well over my head as I stand on the beach. Due to the nature of the shore break, waves come in big here and just as quickly go right back out, but as they crash, they create the roar of a freight train. Each one I look at that towers over me has me thinking that this is the sneaker wave I should fear.

We spent just enough time at Garrapata to see all things big and small, but will have to get to driving as we still have 265 miles ahead of us.

With the sun setting before 5:00 p.m. at this time of year, it might not be all that late, but at this point, we were still two and a half hours from Willits, California.

Going Home

The small cabin on the dock was our home away from home here at Five Branches Camper Park in Bayfield, Colorado on the Vallecito Reservoir

That sweet little cabin over on the dock was our home away from home for the past five days while we stayed at Five Branches Camper Park on Vallecito Reservoir. Our lakeside view, the beautiful forest, and the ride through the woods every day are hard to leave behind. Lucky for us, we leave with fond memories. The two bears that had been visiting the camp nearly every night didn’t have the chance to eat us or any of our neighbors. The sun rose, it set, and in between, we saw the sun unless the stars were out. This place could easily stay on our list of places to return to someday. Sadly, we never had the opportunity to go out kayaking or canoeing. The problem here is that no one can take a boat out before 8:00 a.m., by which time we were already gone, and boats had to be returned by 5:00; we never got back much before 6:00. No matter, though, we enjoyed our stay.

Two osprey starting to build a tree top nest next to Vallecito Reservoir in Bayfield, Colorado

Today, Caroline was sporting her eagle eye as while we were driving along the narrow lakeside road; she spotted two large birds sitting atop a barren tree. I turned around so we could inspect (and verify her rare find – think myopic); sure enough, she had seen two ospreys, also known as seahawks. The bird coming in for a landing is carrying a branch that we watched it snatch off a nearby tree with a pronounced snap. It circled around and was about to deliver the beginnings of a new nest for momma and poppa birds.

Aspen stand off the Redrock Highway in northern Arizona on the Navajo Reservation

The next hours we drove through the Ute Reservation and their town of Ignacio. Next was Aztec, New Mexico, and the first and one of the last Starbucks we would find before passing through Flagstaff, Arizona, later in the day. So, I’m addicted. It is a long drive from Durango, Colorado, to Phoenix, Arizona. After Aztec and nearly the same town, we drive through Farmington. It was in Farmington back on October 19, 2000, that we had the chance to spend a night at Kokopelli Cave while my mother-in-law Jutta was visiting. The cave is one of the most unique places in all of America to stay at. But today, we are going home.

Looking south on the Navajo Reservation in eastern Arizona

We have left the Redrock Highway with some great views and beautiful red sandstone bluffs but quality photos were not in the cards this trip. Back down on flat land, we were afforded some tremendous vistas; even a little rain was spotted way off in the distance left of the centerline. No rivers, no trees, and not much of anything out here. Can you guess why this made perfect Indian Reservation land? The answer is easy: there was nothing our forefathers wanted from this land. Caroline and I find it infinitely gorgeous; sadly, most tourists do not. The casual observer gets distracted by the poverty, desolation, and inane stereotypes that have been propagated over the years regarding the indigenous people of North America.

Two dead calves roadside on the Navajo Reservation

Two dead calves lie in front of the gate that leads to Keams, Arizona – they are a warning not to trespass on Indian lands. Even if one were to want to open the gate to take a shortcut to Keams, how would you maneuver the carcasses?

New Native American pictographs of Mickey are replacing the more old fashioned Kokopelli, dear, or sign for the sun, water, or some other dumb stuff

This is the new face of Native American rock art, also known as pictographs. Out with Kokopelli, the sun, water, dear, or other tired, old-fashioned symbols from the previous thousands of years. Modern Indians are putting down new icons, like Mickey Freakin Mouse. Strangely, Mickey is almost across the street from the two dead calves. Could this be some mysterious signal to passing native motorists that running down animals to leave subversive and superstitious-looking roadside messages is right on? Then they throw out Disney characters to disorient us, tourists, into fearing the red man. Maybe the tide is turning, and the Indians are getting wise to our wacky right-wing belief systems and are starting to toy with our heads. Native Americans, rise up and take over the media landscape; it’s time for revenge for what was taken from you. The first step, corrupt our icons.

A curve in the road on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

With the aerosol bombardment of peyote starting to wear off, a curve in the road returns me to my senses and out of the hallucinations I was obviously having back there deep on the Rez. I’m sure that later when I look back at those photos, the dead calves and Mickey will have proven to be a figment of my imagination. You can bet I’m happy to be returning to normal.

Dead horse on the Navajo Reservation, Arizona

And just then, in that moment of doubting what I was seeing, here’s the remains of a horse that will be ridden no more.

Up that way is the Navajo Rez, behind the camera is America. Fuck yeah!

In front of the camera is the Navajo Nation, and behind me is America, where I feel like a white guy. Soon, we will approach gas stations with hordes of hot tourists driving down Interstate 40, clogging some of the grimiest bathrooms your nose wants to experience in the summer. Flushed of their overflowing bladders, they will flock to the freezer for ice creams and coke – good old American food, no more of that sinewy old mutton and fry bread cooked in lard for me. Just me and my America, going home. Makes me well up and think about listening to this when I get home.