Williamsburg – Mt. Vernon – D.C.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt - prisoners in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Up early in Colonial Williamsburg to capture some of the solitude the morning offers, and I found these two crusty hags in the stockade. I can only imagine the depths of their lurid crimes. The old town just isn’t what it used to be.

Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Nothing is open at this time of day, and due to my relentless need to rush from one place to another, we are only allowed the briefest of impressions. We don’t always move this way, but when we do, we sometimes end up wishing for some flexibility that wasn’t built into the plans. Such is the nature of wanting to share firsthand impressions of places with Jutta and trying to prioritize some things while effectively diminishing others.

Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Even before anyone else is stirring, we have to turn our focus on heading up the York River. From there, we’ll skip over to the Rappahannock River and finally trace up the famous Potomac.

Washington's Home in Mount Vernon, Virginia

We have arrived at Mt. Vernon to visit the home of the 1st President of the United States, George Washington.

Washington's Home in Mount Vernon, Virginia

Not only was he our first President, but he scored by being one of the early landowners in America on the Potomac River to be able to choose where to put his home.

Washington's Home in Mount Vernon, Virginia

The grounds are extensive, and it was soon abundantly clear that there’s no way I allocated enough time to do justice to what’s here to discover.

Washington's Home in Mount Vernon, Virginia

A hilltop overlooking the Potomac River may not be beachfront on Kauai, but if you had to live in the Eastern U.S. close enough to work so the horse and buggy might get you somewhere in a reasonable amount of time, well then, George Washington picked a mighty fine location that while only 16 miles from D.C., feels well removed.

Washington's Home in Mount Vernon, Virginia

I should point out that the original post from this day and those surrounding it were originally rather brief, and while the story will remain thin, I’ve added a good number of photos that weren’t included in the original posts. The exclusion of so many photos was due to the limits of bandwidth back then. However, when updating the posts, I often can’t really add any more context because I’m now so far removed from the events of those days.

Washington's Home in Mount Vernon, Virginia

The final resting place of George Washington, his wife Martha, is interred to his right. Time to head to our next stop on this whirlwind adventure.

Washington D.C.

Our hotel is but a few minutes walk around the corner from the White House. After check-in and parking the car for the next three days, as we will stick to getting around by foot and subway, we are off and soon walking by the home of Mr. Barack Obama on our way to the National Mall.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Washington D.C.

Next up, we pass the Washington Monument, hoping to reach the Lincoln Memorial before sunset.

Washington D.C.

Just before reaching the reflecting pool, we come upon the new World War II Memorial. The last time Caroline and I were here, construction wouldn’t begin for at least another year. The finished Memorial is beautiful and fits between the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial as though it was always meant to be here.

Washington D.C.

Looking back from the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool with the U.S. Capitol and the Washington Monument in view at sunset makes for a stunning image of our well-planned capital city.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Washington D.C.

Sunset was just starting to finish its business as we stood below the towering Mr. Lincoln in awe of all the history surrounding us.

Washington D.C.

As the lights on the monuments come up, so does the desire to see everything in the evening, but we have a busy couple of days that demand we all get some sleep.

Washington D.C.

And so, past the White House, we go on the way back to our hotel.

America – Day 13

Marine Corps War Memorial near Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

Waking up to the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial this morning. Not much else to say here but “Oorah!”

Graves of John and Jacqueline Kennedy at Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

At Arlington National Cemetery, we walked the grounds for a good while before heading over to the Eternal Flame at John and Jacqueline Kennedy’s gravesite.

Carousel Billy Goat at National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.

I wasn’t going to post this picture of another goat, this one a billy from a carousel that went round and round, immovable and fixed in time….again another metaphor for those who sit in these seats of power. The reason I wasn’t going to share it was that it’s not very compelling on its own, but I couldn’t find this anywhere else on the internet, so I’m thinking that this might be the only photo that exists of this carousel Billy goat at the National Museum of American History. Funny how everything here in D.C. seems to be a reminder of something that has been as opposed to showing us what can be.

China Town in Washington D.C.

For everything that Washington D.C. might be missing, culture is not one of them. This is a cultural melting pot with people from around the world seen walking these streets. Due to the abundance of diplomatic missions, it seems like foods from around the globe are also present. While Chinatown here has a wonderful gate, there’s not much more to the place than that, at least from our cursory observation. This is definitely not Chinatown from San Francisco or even Los Angeles.

Annapolis, Maryland

This was the best we could do in seeing Annapolis in Maryland. While it comes highly recommended, we have other plans for the rest of the day and will leave this for another visit.

Caroline County, Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay

This is why we couldn’t spend more time in Annapolis: Caroline County! Just kidding, we are driving down along the Chesapeake Bay and are looking forward to the wetlands and quiet after the crowds of D.C.

Ferry at Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

This is the ferry crossing at 23865 River St. near Route 352 in Whitehaven, Maryland. Just one car at a time gets taken over the Wicomico River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on a ferry over the Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

These are what faces look like on their very first ferry crossing in America. The Chesapeake Bay is beautiful, even on a cloudy day.

Narrow bridge just the other side of the ferry in Whitehaven, Maryland

Just after arriving on the other side of our ferry adventure, we have this rickety old wooden bridge to contend with.

Welcome to Virginia state sign

Spent quite a bit of time in the wetlands of Maryland before reaching Virginia, where we were getting nervous it would be dark by the time we saw (or didn’t see) our next landmark.

Susan's Seafood in New Church, Virginia

Caroline is a sucker for signs; the wackier, the better. Had to stop at Susan’s Seafood to snap a photo for our memory books. We didn’t get anything to eat here, so we’ll have to reserve an opinion on that, but we might be back, especially after I read the glowing reviews. Along the way, we also passed the world’s largest decoy factory and another sign at a repair shop that read, “We fix anything but a broken heart.”

It’s dark, seriously dark, by the time we reach the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel. So, while we can’t see much from the top of the bridge, these tunnels are amazing while simultaneously being kinda creepy as we plunge below the bay. Once back on the mainland, we headed for Hampton, Virginia, where we had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to eat at The Grate Steak, where we got to cook our own steak (or veggie burger). Our hotel was the Legacy Inn by the airport in Richmond, Virginia. We are exhausted and crash well before midnight, as we have asked for a 5:30 wake-up call.

America – Day 12

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the White House in Washington D.C.

Today will be a walking day, and we are lucky to have the perfect weather for it. Our first stop was the White House. The excitement of being here in Washington, D.C., is palpable. As a child, I dreamed of one day visiting the nation’s capital, and here I am. You might have guessed my excitement level from the smile on my face.

The White House in Washington D.C.

The other side of the White House. Someday, we will have to go through the protocol to request a visit to this historic residence, someday.

The Washington Monument as seen from across the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

We walked across the National Mall and made our first visit to the Lincoln Memorial, then walked out past the Vietnam and Korean War Veterans Memorials before heading to the Tidal Basin for this spectacular view of the Washington Monument.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial next to the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C.

I knew a man ever so briefly who cared for President Roosevelt and ensured his smoldering cigarette never caught the White House on fire when he was heading to bed. My great-uncle played a role in the lives of several presidents and always remained loyal to his oath of confidentiality throughout his life. This, though, was his favorite of all the men he served in his time of service to our country and the White House.

Bronze of President Jefferson at the memorial honoring his contribution to the United States

President Thomas Jefferson was and is one of my favorite presidents, not just for his eloquence in crafting documents that have held strong for a couple of hundred years but for his renaissance nature of being curious about many things, peoples, and cultures throughout his life. If only today we had statesmen who had the intelligence, foresight, and ambition this leader had. From draftsman of the Declaration of Independence, governor of Virginia, minister to France, to the man who set Lewis & Clark out on an expedition to the unexplored West, allowed for the Louisiana Purchase, and was the third U.S. president. We make a note to someday visit Monticello in Virginia.

Jefferson Memorial in Washington D.C.

The Jefferson Memorial on a beautiful fall day.

The United States Capitol building in Washington D.C.

It was a circuitous route that brought us to the U.S. Capitol building. First, we walked by the Bureau of Engraving and Printing before rejoining the National Mall for an up-close look at the Washington Monument. Next up was the Air & Space Museum, where we took a photo of us standing in front of the Spirit of St. Louis with the plane perfectly in focus and us perfectly out of focus. Then we headed to the Capitol. Have you noticed what an incredibly beautiful day it is?

Inside the Natural History Museum in Washington D.C.

This felt like the perfect metaphor for how things get done here in the United States. The human skeleton represents one side of the population, and the obstinate goat is on the other side; neither side wants to do what the other wants, but somewhere in the middle, a compromise is made. This display was at the Natural History Museum, which is part of the Smithsonian. In our limited time at the museum, we were also able to take in some mummies, dinosaur bones, diverse rocks, and minerals, along with the Hope diamond.

Benjamin Franklin in front of the Old Post Office in Washington D.C.

From Benjamin Franklin, I learned what a polymath was, and from a young age, I knew I wanted to be just like him. His accomplishments are too broad for me to capture here; better if you just go read a Wikipedia article or a book about this great American.

Ford's Theatre in Washington D.C.

The site of the demise of President Abraham Lincoln, our 16th president. Ford’s Theatre is a grim reminder that even great people can be vulnerable to the anger of the person who sees no other way to settle a grievance. We not only visited the inside of the theater, taking note of the Presidential Box where John Wilkes Booth assassinated Lincoln, but we also went across the street to the Petersen House and saw the location where Lincoln passed after he was taken there.

Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

After visiting the sad and tragic site where a beloved president was murdered, it was time to revisit the Lincoln Memorial to take a moment to think about the founding of the United States and the turmoil we have endured so we could be a leading example of what is to be a nation of laws and order.

Abraham Lincoln seated in the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C.

This is the man I learned about, who was a self-taught lawyer, an autodidact who inspired me as a child that I could learn anything and become anything I set my sights on. Lincoln failed twice in business before turning 25 years old; he failed eight times running for public office. Yet he persevered and, with determination, became one of the most memorable presidents in the history of the United States. I had a lump in my throat standing before the statue of this great man, and I again have a lump in my throat as I write this.

The White House at night in Washington D.C.

Dinner, sadly, was not at the White House. We took the Metro to Foggy Bottom and walked the rest of the way to Georgetown for a meal at an Indian restaurant. We finished up the night with one last glance at the Washington Monument and then a slow walk past the White House, hoping for the odd chance we’d see President Clinton out smoking a cigar or something.

America – Day 11

Ephrata Cloister in Ephrata, Pennsylvania

Like so many other times on this trip, so far, places are either closed for the season or are on shorter hours, and we simply arrive too early. This is the Ephrata Cloister in Ephrata, Pennsylvania. Conrad Beissel, a man of German descent, was Ephrata’s founder and established this corner of Pennsylvania as somewhere he felt he could live as a hermit. By the early 1750s, Beissel was no longer alone, having attracted nearly 80 others who chose the ascetic life of celibacy and self-discipline. Mark this cloister as somewhere we need to return to.

Beaver Street in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

From beautiful architecture to a frightening neighborhood of row houses that have the feeling of a kind of poverty Caroline and I do not typically encounter. Mind you, we’ve been on and near skid-row in downtown Los Angeles and have witnessed poverty on more than a few Native American reservations, but something is foreboding about how people are packed into such a small area.

Lancaster County Prison in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

One can’t help but take the situation in this area and play stereotypes with assumptions, such as the idea that too many of the kids growing up in neighborhoods such as the one just above end up here in this prison. This is not the idyllic side of the area often associated with the farmlands of the Amish.

Row houses in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

More row houses. While certainly an upgrade from the other neighborhood, these have a scuffed appearance. I would love to have seen this area in its prime when the industrial/farming economy was bustling, and these homes were brand new.

Farmers Market in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania

Two things are striking about this photo, first, fresh food is for people over 40, and second, the diversity in these farmer’s markets is shocking when compared to what we know from Arizona. This market was in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, and while we certainly didn’t leave empty-handed, we no longer know exactly what we left with (Caroline remembers apple Schnitz and a big coffee cake). We need some Amish farmers to move to Arizona; as a matter of fact, everyone in America needs some local Amish to help fill their pantries.

Amish buggy on the way to Intercourse, Pennsylvania

We can now officially claim that we’ve been to Amish country as we are witnessing our first horse-drawn buggy in traffic. The next souvenir will be the obligatory yellow “buggy crossing” sign refrigerator magnet.

Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

Wow, a real Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania! How do I know it’s an Amish farm, you ask? Do you see any electrical wires running to that property? There are also no signs of vehicles such as tractors out there either. The only thing missing from this scene is the horse-drawn plow with a bearded man dressed in black behind it.

Hans Herr House in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

This is the oldest house left standing in Lancaster County; it is the Reverend Hans Herr’s house. Hans was born in Zurich, Switzerland, in 1639 and was the first Mennonite bishop to emigrate to America. He sailed to America at 70 years old, and within ten years, his son Christian Herr built this house in 1719. What struck us about all of this is that it has been documented that at least 13,223 people were claiming to be direct lineal descendants of Hans Herr as of 1994.

Fall colors in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

The colors of fall.

James Buchanan's house in Wheatland, Pennsylvania

Those faces should be disappointed, but we got lucky today. A wedding was getting ready to take place, but our sad story about being so far away from home and wanting to visit our first Presidential home did not fall on deaf ears. George was now our gracious and super informative guide on a quick tour of the James Buchanan home called Wheatland in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Buchanan was our 15th president, preceding Abraham Lincoln. American history for the win.

Welcome to Maryland state sign

It’s just a two-state day, so it doesn’t feel like we’re working hard enough. Maryland is welcoming us.

The Capitol building in Washington D.C.

Okay, two states and the District of Columbia! Earlier in the day, we’d decided to bypass D.C. as we figured it would be another congested version of New York City. At the last minute, we changed our minds in Baltimore and pointed the car to our nation’s capital. Our first motel was such a disaster that we asked for a refund; the next place was only 10 minutes from the White House and much better. Excited to explore this place in the morning.