Oregon Coast 2019 – Day 9

Seaside Beach in Oregon

Cannon Beach (not pictured as we were already in Seaside before I took a photo) is where we spent the better part of a few of our previous trips to Oregon and was the starting location for this last day of our visit. With the rain coming down, we skipped the usual beach walk that would take us past Haystack Rock and instead left immediately for Seaside just north of us. This brings up one of the considerations of pre-booking a room, which, unfortunately, is often required on holiday weekends.

Had we woken to nice weather, we wouldn’t have cared about breakfast (and remaining dry) quite so much; we would have started on the beach first thing, and our day would have likely included a walk at Ecola State Park. The premium we paid to be in Cannon Beach would have been justified for our convenience of doing more with the short day under sunny skies. Instead, we incurred an extra $70-$90 for our room but have nothing else of value for putting our heads down here. So it goes, and like all things on vacation, we have to negotiate the variables.

Seaside Beach in Oregon

While it may well be a gray day for the remainder of our time out here, we must consider what we’ve heard about the freeze the rest of the country is experiencing and even take note of the snow blanket on the mountains just east of us. Being lucky enough that we can take this short walk between rain showers makes things quite okay. Three tornadoes touched down in Phoenix a couple of days ago, one of them only about 5 miles away from where we live. The Grand Canyon had blizzard-like conditions, losing electricity and heat, all of this while we walked the seashore with nary a care.

Seaside Beach in Oregon

The photos so far are of the beach in Seaside and were taken after our interesting breakfast at the Osprey Cafe. The wait for a table was well worth it as I can say I’ve never had Nasi Goreng for breakfast; it was even topped with an egg, making it especially breakfasty. While I’m at it, Caroline opted for Huevos Rancheros with a kind of corn cake called arepas. We’ll be back.

Dough Dough Bakery in Seaside, Oregon

It was starting to rain again as we finished our walk for the short drive to the intersection of Broadway and Holladay Drive and a return to the Beach Books store. Last year, we met Alexa, who we learned yesterday is working today. The Seaside Yarn and Fiber store is two doors down, and in between is the Dough Dough Bakery with hot coffee, free WiFi, and some excellent baked goods. After talking books for a time with Alexa, I headed into the bakery to catch up on some very neglected blogging chores.

Armed with more coffee and willing to suffer greater indulgence for the sake of allowing me to extol the virtues of being fully on vacation where the senses should always be operating at full capacity, I had a cinnamon roll. What’s the big deal? It’s just a pastry, right? Not to a person with diabetes; it’s evil incarnate and promises to spit on my cells that cannot absorb any more glucose. More insulin is the solution, you say? Not in my world where exercise, diet control, and Metformin have been able to keep things in check. This form of hedonistic debauchery in the realm of culinary sweets is tightly controlled, but not on vacation, as that would be torture.

Seaside Yarn and Fiber in Seaside, Oregon

Let’s pretend this is just a normal day and that we live here in retirement. This raises my ire as it brings up what is broken with Oregon beyond the clearcutting of forests and overfishing: the cost of real estate. Wealth from outside the area has moved in on the coast, buying up property for vacation homes and investments, thus driving up the cost of real estate for everyone else. You need not point out that this is the norm in cities across America, allowing the wealthy to earn more from their already concentrated wealth. Combine the rising cost of a dwelling, be it a rental or purchase of a home in places with relatively depressed economies where most people make something under $15 an hour, and you have a recipe for pain.

The idea that we could rent a place in northern Italy cheaper than we can two miles inland in Florence, Oregon, strikes me as a horrible deal that doesn’t bode well for the local economies up and down the coast here. Instead of Caroline and I leaving our savings here in Oregon, we’ll likely be spending them across the Atlantic, where our cost of living will be more manageable. What justifies these extraordinary inequalities where a small cadre of wealthy people are able to bring financial ruin to so many? These actions drive the people of lesser means out of the region into bigger cities, but their lack of formal education relegates these transplants to menial jobs. I guess this is one way to curtail Hispanic immigration.

This is not a win-win situation for anyone unless the wealthy, who are displacing the residents of this coastal region, believe their working-class minions will commute 20 to 70 miles from points inland to take the jobs of serving them lattes and walking their dogs. As I write this, I want to blurt out that I think this is just plain old fucked. Maybe you are suggesting I do something about it? Well, what does one do in a country where mediocrity and acceptance of a distorted and broken status quo rule the day? Ayn Rand, with her idiotic Fountainhead and Atlas Shrugged, was wildly successful in bringing us to a pure version of survival of the fittest, which has translated into everyone out for themselves and be damned those of you who can’t keep up. To this end, I don’t feel we are any longer Americans except when someone asks us for our hopes and prayers, to stand for the national anthem, or somebody brings up soldiers and their sacrifices.

Beach Books in Seaside, Oregon

Out of the bakery and back to the bookshop. This being Sunday, the bakery closes early at 1:00 p.m. due to business fading after the rush of people leaving church services. At the last minute, Caroline decided she really liked the Dough Dough Bird t-shirt too much to let it go, so we have one more item to pack tonight.

It looks like we might have another book or so coming home with us, including The Triumph of Seeds: How Grains, Nuts, Kernels, Pulses, and Pips Conquered the Plant Kingdom and Shaped Human History by Thor Hanson that Alexa inadvertently brought our attention to. She also let us leave with Me and Mr. Cigar by Gibby Haynes of the Butthole Surfers and The Adventurer’s Son: A Memoir by Roman Dial. These two last titles are not due out until next year; lucky us. These would join yesterday’s findings with 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus by Charles C. Mann, SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome by Mary Beard, and Sometimes a Great Notion by Ken Kesey.

The Ken Kesey book was recommended to us down south while at the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum in Florence due to our interest in the historic industrial side of Oregon and how its past is crashing into the reality of the present. While I thought there was a small chance we’d find this title up here in Seaside, I was surprised that they’d have a title that is 42 years old, even if it is about Oregon.

This makes me wonder about resource depletion going on 100 years ago and how the wealthy are depleting the working class today by harvesting every penny they can from them through owning their homes and apartments and wrecking their participation in acquiring a quality life for themselves. But who cares about the unwashed masses who made their bed and are now being forced to sleep in it, right? I care because Caroline and I could easily be priced out of our vacations. Right now, we are privileged to have the means to bring ourselves into these kinds of experiences and are well aware of the fact that the majority of people along this coast do not have the ability to take themselves even down to Arizona, forget about the expense of heading to Europe for a few weeks.

Moss is allowed to live a better, more symbiotic life here on the coast, where, from its vantage point near the ocean, it lives free. Its descendants inherit its place tax-free and do not require an expensive university education to make a living. The birds take a place on the beach or on a tree branch when not darting about the sky without a license or rules they have to follow as they travel freely on their quest to find food along the way. Only when humans come along to displace their habitats do these creatures and plants find their existence threatened.

I’ve probably made this exact lament at least one other time here on my blog, but I feel it bears repeating. I’m supposed to feel free. To the extent that Caroline and I have the education and economic ability to bring ourselves into these adventures, I certainly feel lucky, but I also appreciate that so many more people in Europe have the same opportunities and means to share in the extraordinary. I attribute this perceived disparity to giant differences in health, education, and business practices in Europe that have at least some bias favoring the common individual. Europe’s population is twice that of America’s, and yet they can afford free university, great public transportation, and a humane amount of paid vacation for the individual to find a quality of life that better justifies the sacrifices made for the state and for big business.

Astoria–Megler Bridge between Oregon and Washington over the Columbia River

Bridges are interesting in regard not only to transportation but to human endeavors, too. In practice, they make moving between two geographical points easier, saving us time and allowing us better access to things and people that might otherwise be out of reach. In society, we use bridges as part of our social networking, which is supposed to offer us access to opportunity, but as we become electronic shadows of our former selves, we are increasingly irrelevant as part of the intellectual highway system. In that sense, it’s as though this bridge over the Columbia had been built for birds that would just fly from shore to shore. So why is this human-to-human bridge failing?

Is it because of our dismal view of one another? Is it because we no longer feel like an integral part of a larger thing and instead are isolated electrons in orbital positions around a nucleus of the ego existing in a void? Are we nothing more than a transaction with an IP number moving about like some anonymous packet of data? While hydrogen and oxygen are almost inextricably entangled in a water configuration, it is as though we humans are on a path towards oblivion, believing we can be on our own alone in a universe where the execution of financial transactions is the apex of being. Community and belonging to a larger something is going extinct.

Dismal Nitch in Washington

Our act of becoming nothing was being recognized by the early 1980s as Gilles Deleuze and Felix Guattari were writing about our deterritorialization in the book A Thousand Plateaus. In the ensuing years, we’ve accelerated the process and broken free of all territories on our way to full dematerialization. While those authors were seeing the hints of losing cultural meaning they could never have predicted that the personal electronic economy would not only remove any vestige of personal territory but that it would reject the physical existence of the individual.

As we become electronic puppets on the stage of parody where consumerism has replaced survival, we no longer have a need to be human in the sense that we are an evolutionary species seeking meaning. In another age, we learned to brave the elements, were taught about our environment, we sought symbiosis with a hostile world. Becoming nothing more than information, are we casting the die that suggests that without meaning, the course of evolution may have little need of us?

In an otherwise symbiotic system where death and growth found balance, maintaining relative harmony, we humans discovered ways of subverting nature while destroying our life support system. Simultaneously, we have been dispatching culture and turning ourselves into binary anonymity. Where we used to be a family, community, town, village, state, or country, we are quickly approaching that of being nothing.

Not that any of that really has relevance here, as the larger issue is why we ever believed that the proliferation of information was going to act as a great equalizer by making the wider distribution of knowledge something empowering. Greater access has had the contrary effect in exposing the depth of the individual’s proclivities towards debased idiocy. Collectively, we pander to the lowest common denominator in the name of individual choice under the guise of freedom. We are bullshitting ourselves at the expense of our continued existence but are rendered too narrow-minded to understand our predicament. A dismal situation indeed.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Dismal Nitch in Washington

Caroline’s and my situation, on the other hand, is anything but dismal when I consider that we have options, can travel, read, write, explore our minds, develop skills, and contemplate the deeper corners of the ocean, the cosmos, and our emotions I realize our inventory of wealth is overflowing. We continuously try to build bridges with everyone and everything we encounter. While I have embraced our deterritorialization on a path to better knowing our world without any personal allegiance to any particular state, we are at the same time cultivating a global reterritorialization where we work to develop a kindred spirit with everyone. Our path doesn’t see us fading into dematerialization and nothingness as we do not lead a passive life of observation but are out here trying to find the things we do not know, understand, or fully comprehend. On occasion, we stumble into the profound and magical, dressed in moments of love that bring sunshine to the most dismal of days.

Forgotten Oregon Trip – Day 5

Oysterville, Washington

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

Up again early, waking at the Seaview Motel ready for our drive north to Oysterville, Washington.

Oysterville, Washington

If that guard donkey hadn’t been on duty and alert to my presence, I would have scaled the fence and poked my head into that old home. I was certain that the falling-down appearance was simply a decoy to trick people into not exploring the treasures left behind by previous occupants. Oysterville just isn’t the place it used to be, not that we’ve ever been out here before, but one could imagine.

Leadbetter Point State Park Oysterville, Washington

Leadbetter Point State Park didn’t deliver us to the ocean views we were looking for in the time we had remaining, and so we had to be satisfied that we’d been this far north on this tiny spur of Washington.

Caroline Wise on the Columbia River in Ridgefield, Washington

The reason we were short on time was that we had a two-hour drive to an appointment at 11:45 at Ridgefield Kayak.

Columbia River in Ridgefield, Washington

We had booked four hours on the water with a guide who was taking us up Lake River on the edge of the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge.

Columbia River in Ridgefield, Washington

Paddle, paddle, paddle, we paddled quite the way for us to reach the destination Caroline and I were aiming for.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Columbia River in Ridgefield, Washington

Here we are onshore at Bachelor Island next to the Columbia River.

Caroline Wise on the Columbia River in Ridgefield, Washington

And back to Lake River as we make our way to the dock from which we had departed.

Columbia River in Ridgefield, Washington

Our drive took us to Vancouver, Washington, where we had dinner at Patrick’s Hawaiian Food, another stop on the Columbia River for a sunset shot that was diffused by the heavy cloud cover, and then over to the airport in Portland. I think we did everything we possibly could on this 5-day excursion into the Pacific Northwest.

Forgotten Washington – Day 5

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

Can you believe it? This is Junior Ranger Caroline with Alice Cullen, who is played by Ashley Greene from the hit movie Twilight. We are up here in Forks, Washington, for Twilight Fanfest 2011 and ran into Ashley, who had shapeshifted into a two-legged horse.

And, of course, this is Edward Cullen, played by Robert Pattinson, who was in character trying to avoid the crowds by being inconspicuous. Damn, we sure loved these movies and wish they’d return. There’s not a day that goes by we don’t dream about Midnight Sun coming out someday.

Is this the path to Transylvania, or am I remembering the wrong vampire film?

Whoever’s playing the joke with the sign pointing us to this moss-covered credenza had me fooled, thinking I was about to find a “Moss Covered Three-Handled Gradunza.” Silly me for confusing things.

You probably haven’t figured it out yet, but we are in the Hoh Rain Forest, which is part of the Olympic National Park and the beginning of the serious part of this blog post that I have very little to say about.

Shoot, I don’t know what I can seriously say about this close-up shot of spore plants and other things I know little of.

Is it enough to share that I like wood tones surrounded by various hues of green?

Then there are these trees straddling a dead tree in a kind of necromantic multi-year ritual that we witnessed on our first visit to this coastal forest.

Come on, Caroline, I needed a scowl as whoever heard of a story featuring a friendly smiling tree troll?

Here we are, standing in front of the only moss-covered pay-phone in the entirety of the United States, which probably no longer exists. Did we miss our golden opportunity to call people using quarters to access a landline? Hmm, a smartphone that uses quarters, now there’s a great idea. I know what you are thinking, a smartphone doesn’t have space to store many quarters? I got that figured out, too: a Kevlar pouch attached to the phone to accept the coins, which would also stop people from breaking into said phone.

There was no way on a day with bright blue skies and our proximity to the coast that we wouldn’t allocate at least some small amount of time to visit. We’ll skip the Quinault Rain Forest, which is also part of the Olympic National Park, as we do have a flight later tonight that will bring us back to Phoenix.

There was a large root ball nearby with possibly 100s of cairns stacked upon its old sun-dried roots, but my photographs didn’t offer even one that was worth sharing. That’s a good thing, though, as there always needs to be another mystery for others to find, or what hope of finding your own magic is there?

Caroline is searching for that mystery.

This is the reason Washington beaches are not known for sunbathing; how would anyone get comfortable laying on logs?

Sometimes, when searching for something to say about a photo, I learn far more than I could have imagined. My first question here was, “How long do barnacles live?” The answer is 5 to 10 years. Well then, how long might these barnacles have been attached to this mussel so I can figure out how old the barnacles are? The answer didn’t really give me the answer I wanted, as it turns out that mussels can live to be 60 to 70 years old. That means a typical mussel can host 6 to 14 generations of barnacles on its shell. Now I have to reevaluate if I’m willing to eat a bivalve that could be older than me.

Why is exploring nature better than visiting Versailles in Paris, France? At the Palace of Versailles, you are only allowed to look at what’s decreed by others who restrict your access, while in nature, you can look in the cracks, corners, and under the rocks of what nobody may have ever looked at before.

Writing the above, I realized that at this moment in Caroline’s life, I was the only person to see her. So, in a sense, she embodies all the treasure found in Versailles and all the potential found in nature, and lucky me has the opportunity to continue my exploration of her potential; love is that grand. By the way, we have stopped at the Kalaloch Lodge for some lunch; Caroline’s beer is from Fish Tale Ale, and the glass reads, “Reel Fish Swim Naked.”

From our lunchtime overview, we had about 4 hours without stops to reach the Sea-Tac airport. Obviously, we did make stops, but for the sake of this blog journey into the Pacific Northwest, this is the end of the road.

Forgotten Washington – Day 4

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

The momentum of having completed some rudimentary narrative for the previous three days has me wanting to continue and get the last two days of this trip knocked out, but I’m sitting in a coffee shop this summer afternoon in 2021, and I’m falling flat. Sure, the photo of the low sun in the fog looks dramatic, but I’ve got nothing good in my head about this day. Maybe due to the tension that was about to boil over today, I purged this part of the trip as much as possible as it turned out in some ways not to be ours.

Our friend Kirk apparently had developed a crush on Rainy, and being as smitten as he was, he went overboard, making himself the center of attention to the point of being overbearing. By the time I had to let him know that Caroline and I needed some “us” time up in the mountains of Olympic National Park, I’d already been smoldering that he was hijacking our vacation instead of sharing it. The dumb thing about this situation is that we’d do the exact same thing later in the year when we’d invite someone else named Caroline to join us in Oregon, where we’d learn that we didn’t want to travel with her either. The trouble there was that she was scheduled to join us on the Alsek River up in Canada and Alaska the following summer. I’m yet to blog about the Oregon trip but I’m pretty sure it’ll be relatively easy to push her to the side as I did with the blog post about the Alsek.

Just give us some nature, wildlife, coast, some small restaurants, a coffee or two, and each other’s hand, and Caroline and I can be perfectly content to walk through our world. Our sympathy for those who don’t vacation as much as we do but voice envy about our privilege needs to be limited as the difficulty of meeting their ideas for lodging, food, waking, sleeping, walking, and quiet are not compatible with John and Caroline Wise. I should make one exception as we have always enjoyed traveling with my mother-in-law Jutta, well, except those times when I get cranky but seriously, our time spent with Caroline’s mother has been terrific over and over.

The forest doesn’t perform for us; it doesn’t try to make us laugh or demand that we look at it. It’s just a forest that does what it does and probably does it better when humans are not around. It’s our good fortune to be able to visit such places where serenity can be experienced.

What’s the difference between this image of the sun whispering to us through the fog while silhouettes of trees act as columns holding up the sky to a cathedral where the sun streams through stained glass and we stand before such a sight as us worshippers kneeling in the nave before the beauty surrounding us? To answer this, I’d have to suppose that humanity has forgotten how to be smitten by the natural world and has even grown numb to the artifice found all around them in their world of contrivances.

Nothing needs to be done to this piece of driftwood to make it more dramatic or give it greater utility; it is perfect and beautiful.

The layers! Caroline will know what I meant.

Some random spider spent the energy and time to construct and likely repair this beautiful web full of morning dew. The temporary nature of webs is like friendships: they are constructed in relative haste, serve a short-term purpose, and then fade unless constant attention is given to them. But even the spider finds it more effective to simply take the hour and spin a new one the next day. I wish I had the wisdom of spiders.

Here I am in 2021, assembling this blog post, and I could have made my life easier by leaving out the redundant images that are iterations of dozens of others that effectively show the same thing. But my desire to refresh my memories with distant fragments of things seen with these eyes is insatiable even though at this point where thousands of blog posts and possibly 10’s of thousands of images have been shared, it will be difficult to review them all in my remaining lifetime. But still, I enjoy knowing that I could stumble upon them in the future, and they’ll bring a smile to my face, or I’ll discover a detail I missed before.

This brave deer stood motionless looking at the human standing motionless staring at it. Maybe we were both incredulous that the other creature seemed safe enough for this moment that we could stop and dwell in consideration of what the other was thinking. Strangely enough, there were two other encounters with deer today, at least as far as photographic proof is concerned.

Even when alone with our thoughts in places such as this, while Caroline and I can be aware of our togetherness, we can still find those quiet moments of aloneness where we are here with the mushrooms, newts, moss, ferns, birds, and fog.

Instead of acting as prisms to see the details of the leaf or surrounding forest, it appears that the water droplets are acting as mirrors of the foggy sky overhead, and so they have taken on this silvery appearance. What the truth is doesn’t matter, as the only important thing is that the droplets are enchanting.

Oh yeah, I just posted that other trail photo with Caroline walking; oh well, I have a soft spot for these scenes.

Kirk and I met back in 1995 when I was opening an internet cafe, he worked as a cook in the kitchen, and you can rest assured that he’s a dick.

I would have never guessed that we’d see Mt. Rainier three days in a row, and this time from our ascent into Olympic National Park, over 100 miles away from that majestic mountain.

Mount Olympus as seen from Hurricane Ridge.

Flowers as seen by humans.

Humans as recorded by electronics after being illuminated by photons.

Ptarmigan a.k.a. grouse seen in Olympic National Park.

This was the only real reason for our trip to Washington this summer; Caroline wanted her Junior Ranger Badges from Mt. Rainier and Olympic National Parks.

On our way out to the northwestern edge of the continental United States.

Seriously, I don’t really know what I can say about driftwood covered in moss in front of the blue waters of this lake other than it’s kind of sexy.

The spots of sunlight were all I needed to find this magical.

Caroline and I first visited this tiny corner of the earth back in 2002, and so it was only nine years later when we returned, but as I write this, it’s now been ten years since that visit in 2011. No matter, really, as I never dreamt we’d go two times, so missing a third is not a disappointment.

I’d like to tell you that I photographed Caroline standing back there years ago, but as I studied the image of her on a similar bend in the boardwalk, I came to the conclusion that it is not the same spot.

Tatoosh Island and the Cape Flattery Lighthouse.

Can’t go any further down here at the cliffside where America falls into the ocean.

The last time we were in Neah Bay, we got an earful about the desperate economic situation of the indigenous Makah people. While we visited the small museum here in town before we ventured out to Cape Flattery today, it just didn’t feel like enough, so we took up a table at a bayside restaurant to try and offer just a little more support of the Makah Tribe. Thirty years after I really started becoming aware of the plight of America’s original population, I still can’t help but feel repulsion at how ineffective the dominant culture has been in supporting people outside the narrow definition of who is considered the real American.

Forgotten Washington – Day 3

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

There were other ways we could have gone; we could have stayed over on the mainland and just driven south, but the opportunity to catch an early morning ferry couldn’t be passed up. While maybe just a utility to locals, ferries for both Caroline and I are part of an adventure that takes us and our car over the sea, magic.

Trying to take a selfie looking into the sun is never a good idea and I hate that big old shadow it creates there on my chest, which isn’t too bad as typically it’s on our face.

Kirk recommended that when we hit Seattle we had to go to Beth’s Cafe on Aurora Avenue and hope we were arriving early enough to beat the crowds to this popular eatery. We only had minutes to wait.

I’m not sure if it’s the food or the art on the wall that makes this place so popular, but if more restaurants featured hand drawings of people asking to see my chocolate starfish, I know I’d be a regular customer of that establishment.

While a cute snail can hardly compete with demons with meat horns and murder shakes, we’ll know that for at least part of a morning, the art of Caroline graced the walls of Beth’s.

Our mountain of breakfast was wheeled to our table and then three men of a muscular stature lifted the plate that would feed the four of us with food left over for at least three others. You will not find a larger breakfast. Seriously, that’s a 12-egg omelet.

Well, it turns out that Archie McPhee’s toy store can be a great distraction. I should say that Caroline and I were lucky we flew in as if we’d had our car with us; we might have left with a bunch of things we never really needed, but that didn’t stop Rainy and Kirk from leaving with a few choice items.

Since this was Rainy’s first time in Seattle, Washington, an obligatory trip to the Pike Place Market was in order, especially for her to visit the world’s first Starbucks, a.k.a. the Mothership for baristas of that brand.

Caroline and I had a different location that was our pilgrimage, it was the Seattle location of Kinokuniya. We’d been to the Los Angeles location many a time but this was our first time here. Japanese books, magazines, videos, and assorted gifts are the specialty, and while we could forego toys, we’ll never be able to leave one of these stores empty-handed.

Did I tell you that we’d visited Archie McPhee’s?

That was enough of Seattle, and we are now back on a ferry.

The dangers of Archie McPhee’s. We laughed pretty hysterically for a good 30 minutes out here.

I don’t know about you, but that big ass mountain hiding a big ass volcano inside the friendly snow-covered peak sure doesn’t look like it’s over 75 miles away from where we are on Puget Sound.

The look of celebrating horses on a ferry to Bainbridge Island.

Caroline has been suffering from “Yarn Fever” for a long time now; here we are at the Churchmouse Yarns & Teas on Bainbridge Island.

Because somehow there are men out there who don’t understand this idea yet.

I don’t know where the time went, but somehow, all the goofing off and shenanigans ate up our day. We are heading to Sequim for our night at the Great House Motel, which was $80 then and only $99 here in 2021.

Update: just two years later, in late 2023, the price is down to $55. I have the sense that there’s something wrong with our economy and the state of health regarding small companies. 

Don’t ask; I’m just the photographer.

I insist that I’ve never kissed this person, ever.

Forgotten Washington – Day 2

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

In yesterday’s post, I mentioned that we were staying in Arlington to position ourselves for a big adventure. We needed to be in Anacortes by 9:00 a.m. sharp and so with the four of us needing to coordinate showers and breakfast, I wanted to be close enough to our destination that we wouldn’t be late.

Today’s kayak trip was taking across a bay over to Burrows Island.

There were no photos of us crossing the bay as my camera was in a waterproof bag, but as soon as we were sitting in a shadow on very calm water, I was able to bring it out and snap a couple of under-exposed images.

While we are accustomed to seeing jellyfish in aquariums and dead on the shore, it’s not very often we see them alive in their natural habitat. Had this been a Portuguese man o’ war, I would have been worried as that would mean we had somehow arrived in the Atlantic Ocean, and well, that would have been pretty strange.

From snowshoes, Seadoos, bicycles, rafts, ferries, and kayaks, Caroline and I are having the times of our lives as we get to travel through our environments by all manner of craft and by foot as we invest in these experiences. All it has taken is a strong commitment and the occasional taking on some debt for these important explorations of pushing ourselves further than we might have imagined.

Writing this part of my recollections, I can’t help but be critical and wish that we’d been doing this kayaking thing far more often than we have. It had been just two years prior to this trip that Caroline and I first ventured out on the water in a kayak on the Atlantic coast, and then the very next day, we were over on the warm Gulf waters in the Florida Keys kayaking for our second time. Just one year prior had been our first encounter with the whitewater of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, and now here we are, hoping we just might see orcas. Living in the desert doesn’t make finding this practice time any easier.

I can go ahead and tell you right now that we did not see a single orca today, but our guide spotted this skeleton shrimp in a clump of seaweed floating at the surface, and well, that was good enough for us, exciting even. It’s not every day that one finds themselves kayaking a stretch of the Pacific Ocean next to an island and just spots such a tiny creature. But why was this so “exciting?” This creature had just been discovered in the past year and here’s our guide just finding one like that! This makes us some of the first humans to see this species in the wild; I got my money’s worth.

I don’t know how we were gifted with perfect weather at Mt. Rainier yesterday, nor can I explain that we had a wonderfully calm ocean for our kayaking trip.

Out of Burrow Bay and onto Burrow Island for lunch.

A fourth-order Fresnel lens once sat in here, but in 1972 it was replaced with an automated system seen here.

The lighthouse went into operation in 1905.

Lucky for us, we’re not in a hurry to get back on the water and can just linger a while enjoying the sea…

… the nice weather and the view of my beautiful wife, it’s all so lovely out here.

It’s a rare day that we travel with others and while there can be issues of bumping us out of our isolation and needing to accommodate these fellow travelers, we’d like to believe it does us good to not always have everything our way.

On the southwest corner of the island, we got into some current that made us work hard to escape it. This very idea that the water could push and pull us where it wanted to take our kayak was unnerving for me as I started entertaining ideas that as we paddled against the flow, we’d roll out of the kayak, and I’d be in the water I didn’t want to encounter.

But here we are, back on land when this happened. As Kirk worked to get out of his kayak, a long, solid ripping sound was heard that left little to the imagination of what had occurred. Caroline ran to Kirk’s car to grab his overnight bag so he could change and repair the dignity that remained in his boat.

At over one hundred miles away, I’m struck that we can see Mt. Rainier in the distance. Or, is the earth really flat, and this 14,411-foot (2.7 miles / 4.4 kilometer) tall mountain is only visible because of the flatness? I quickly do the geometry in my puny head and realize that if that mountain were on that shore and stood almost 3 miles high, it would be a lot higher than what I’m seeing, so if it’s that short, it must be sitting on a curve that slopes out of view! Nah, the earth is flat.

Dinner was at a Thai restaurant, as we’d not learned yet that ethnic food in small towns never failed to let us down. Lodging was at the Acorn Motor Inn for $79, and upon checking their prices ten years later, it would only cost us $89 a night to stay again.