Labor Day 2004 – Day 4

We had 802 miles to travel before getting home around 9:00 p.m., so we were on the road by 5:30, well before the sun made an appearance.

An hour later, we were yet to see the sunrise, but this was even better, a large flock of sheep ambling down the road. This is the kind of traffic jam we can enjoy.

Out of Baggs, Wyoming, and into Colorado on State Road 13. Yay, the sun has returned.

I will never accept the name of this chain of gas stations outside my reading of it as a 15-year-old, juvenile, dirty-minded idiot.

From Craig, Colorado, where we came and went, we continued south a while to Meeker, picking up State Road 64 west towards Rangely, Colorado.

Oh, do we really have time for these kinds of detours? Yeah, but what if we never pass through this area again? Will we regret not having stopped at the Waving Hands site? Okay, but just this one time.

From Rangely, we were driving straight south on the 138 until reaching Loma, where caught the dreaded Interstate 70 over to Cisco, Utah. Making tracks now.

The Desert Southwest comes back into view, approaching Dewey, Utah, on the 128 with a great drive along the Colorado River.

Near the junction where Moab, Utah, connects the Colorado River to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. No time to fool around as it’s getting close to 2:00 p.m., except we are hungry and need to stretch our legs, so why not head over to Eddie McStiff’s for some hot lunch? Great, they are closed for Labor Day, so we went to the Mondo Cafe even though they don’t feature Eddie’s signature miso dressing.

Hole N” The Rock south of Moab is a place we’ve wanted to visit, but we never had time, so why not stop on this day when we only have 800 miles to cover?

Albert Christensen, who built this hole-in-the-rock abode, had a beloved donkey named Harry. While Albert and his wife are gone, Harry, the Donkey is still present in their living room as a stuffed sight to behold. It seems that Mr. Christensen was an amateur taxidermist who should have considered taking his skills to Hollywood to work in special effects for horror films.

We are near Mexican Hat, Utah, on our way toward Monument Valley. Those layers out there are one of Caroline’s all-time favorite roadside views.

There are things more important than showing you one more photo of Monument Valley that we’ve all seen before, but this menu at the Mitchell Butte Dinner on the road leading into Monument Valley will prove to be a real rarity. For Caroline and I, one of the treats of driving up this stretch of road was the vendors hawking Navajo arts and food items, but some years after this visit, in trying to modernize people’s experience here, the vendors were pushed out and their shacks removed.

In our book of southwest delicacies, the roast mutton and grilled chilies on fry bread is a treat we cannot pass up. Maybe we should have eaten a lighter lunch up in Moab so we could have shared three or four of these nearly burned, tough old muttons that require a commitment to eat. Rarely do we leave without a heavy-duty workout of the jaw muscles.

Almost exactly 72 hours after we left on Friday, we are reentering Arizona, having paid visits to New Mexico, Oklahoma, Colorado, Nebraska, South Dakota, Wyoming, and Utah. Almost home.

We are approaching the edge of the Navajo Reservation as we leave Tuba City and turn south towards Flagstaff.

What a glorious sunset to send us off with. Oh, wait, what’s going on up ahead? An hour after we left Flagstaff and just a bit south of Camp Verde, with only 90 miles left out of 2700 driven so far we hit a traffic jam. This is no ordinary jam either, as we are barely moving. Thirty minutes after we first stopped we reset the odometer to better monitor our progress. Time check 8:20 p.m. By 9:10 p.m., we traveled a total of 1.7 miles. 9:50 p.m., and we are 5.1 miles down Highway 17. It’s not until 10:25 p.m., two hours and 7 miles after things came to a crawl that this clears up, and we are finally on our way home in earnest with an hour to go before we arrive.

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 3

Monument Valley in Utah

Oh no, our bonding trip has done what it was supposed to. Here, on the last day of our road trip through a small corner of the Southwest, I’m really enjoying my time with Jessica. We are on our way down this road to make a proper visit to Monument Valley.

Monument Valley in Utah

Into the park we go on a perfectly beautiful day.

Jessica Wise at Monument Valley in Utah

Our visit is brief as we are traveling a little more than 300 miles back to Phoenix this morning.

Jessica Wise at Arizona State Sign

Jessica jumps for joy, believing she survived the trip.

Navajo Reservation in northeast Arizona

Those sheep are carrying away the remains of my kid. I suppose the joke would have been funnier had they been goats.

Navajo Reservation in northeast Arizona

Like all trips from the Wise family, it ain’t done until we get home.

Hubbell Trading Post on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

The Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site felt like a good place for just one more thing.

Hopi Reservation

Oh, but wait, if we turn west instead of continuing south, we can visit the Hopi Reservation. By the way, if you look at a map, you’ll already know I’m zigzagging, as the trading post shouldn’t have been on our route home.

Hopi Reservation

I figured that if Jessica was enjoying herself in the discovery of these remote locations, I should take advantage of our time out here and share as much as possible.

Jessica Wise at the Painted Desert in Northern Arizona

One last photo near where our trip really got underway near the Petrified Forest was taken in the Painted Desert while still on the Navajo Reservation.

The day after the end of this wonderful trip and trying to capture every minute we could before her departure for naval basic training in Chicago, we headed over to a local art theater in Scottsdale for an opening day screening of Fahrenheit 911 by Michael Moore. Little did I know that Jessica had arranged for her father to break his neck to exact revenge for pushing her over the cliffside. As we walked down the left aisle, an old man was bent over on the floor. I never figured that out, so it must have been a setup. Stumbling over Grandpa, probably with her hoping I’d break my neck crashing into the seats, I ended up kicking the guy, relatively hard actually, which had him uttering a gravelly-voiced bark of “Son of a BITCH!”

Jessica and I laughed so hard I was sure we’d be asked to leave the theater. For hours afterward, we were both practicing our best imitation of the old guy cursing “Son of a BITCH!” and laughing as hard as when it happened there in the dark theater.

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 2

Jessica Wise on the Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

Our descent into father/daughter madness continues with me scouting the next location to take action. I got it, the old “throw the kid from the speeding train” trick. She must have figured out my dastardly plan and has strapped herself to her seat on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad in Colorado. This photo was her laughing at me and gloating, “You didn’t expect that, did you? I’ve got you figured out, old man!”

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

Okay, enough of the drama (I can hear Caroline cackling back in Arizona, “Ha John, you never stop with the drama!”) and so I’ll get serious about this narrative.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

We are having a great time out here, but I’m sure you already knew that by the smiles I’m capturing on Jessica’s face. I’ll need to keep those close to my heart as aging into adulthood, and whatever changes her career in the Navy will bring she risks those eyes of innocence becoming shaded by cynicism. Hopefully, the explorations into experiences will leave her with the idea that there are always possibilities that go beyond what you are leaving behind and that you are always leaving something behind.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

One day, she’s a high school student in rural Texas; the next, she’s traveling in the mountains to an old mining town, but maybe tomorrow, she’s on that raft out there testing her mettle.

Silverton, Colorado

Here we are in Silverton, Colorado, for lunch. Our stopover will be short, and then we’ll be back on the train, returning to Durango.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

We wander around the edge of town, away from the other tourists who are more interested in trinkets and souvenirs, which forces me to give credit to Jessica for sharing my enthusiasm for the spectacle of nature.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

I have to admit that before embarking on this epic three-day journey, I was afraid it might be boring for my teenage daughter. I’m enchanted that she and I are getting along and laughing as much as we are.

Cow Canyon Trading Post in Bluff, Utah

With so much available daylight here in summer, we don’t waste any of it staying in place; we remain on the move. This stop for a photo was in Bluff, Utah, on our way south.

Monument Valley in Utah

Perfect timing to reach our first sight of Monument Valley in the last moments of the setting sun.

Jessica Wise and John Wise at Monument Valley in Utah

I can’t get over that Jessica is not wearing the face of simply tolerating the whims of her father but seems to have eyes that exclaim that she’s having fun. Don’t worry; I do consider that she might just be a good actress and wants to avoid that side of her father she doesn’t really like.

Mexican Hat Lodge in Southern Utah

We had to turn around down near Monument Valley to drive back up through the Valley of the Gods into Mexican Hat where we were staying tonight. When I booked this evening at the “Home of the Swingin’ Steak” I was already well aware of their vegetarian option as that’s what Caroline orders when we are here. The man on the grill is Clint, a legend!

As we sat roadside with the grill swinging back and forth, just as advertised, a dog emerged from the night, and instead of coming up begging for food, it flopped down in the dirt, rolled over, and showed us its belly, putting on a perfect show of total cuteness. A metaphor for a father and daughter known to quibble, just show each other some vulnerability, and you’ll understand how cute the other is.

In America with Jay Patel – Day 1

Arizona State Road 89 traveling north into the Painted Desert on the Navajo Reservation

A new adventure is about to begin as we start an exploration into a corner of the country as of yet unseen by Caroline and me. Joining us for this road trip is our friend Jay Patel, who is moving back to India later this year. At 10:00 a.m., Jay and I pick up our rental which is a shiny new red four-door Chevy Impala. We packed the car with clothes, coolers, and a hundred CDs. After lunchtime, we collect Caroline from her office and we are underway. We are driving north, and only two hours up the road and reaching Flagstaff we are in need of the kind of medicine only Starbucks can offer. Eleven shots between us, and we are ready to continue after Caroline and Jay stock up on free samples of espresso brownies. With Jay’s pockets full, we leave.

On Arizona State Road 89, we pass Sunset Crater National Monument where Jay and I just a few weeks earlier had been visiting on a day trip that took us to Monument Valley on the Arizona / Utah border. A little further up the road, we pass the turnoff for the Grand Canyon and are now on the western edge of the Painted Desert and the Navajo Reservation.

The Gap Trading Post on the Navajo Reservation looking north east at the Echo Cliffs in Arizona

Caroline asks that we stop at the Gap Trading Post for some quick shopping. The red woolen yarn she wants is not available today, so we pile back in the car to resume our journey. The Gap is in the shadow of the Echo Cliffs and is named for a small passage that allows travel to Kaibito further into the Navajo Reservation but that’s not the direction we are heading today. A half-hour up the road we are on and we will come into view of the Vermillion Cliffs.

The Vermillion Cliffs on the left and Echo Cliffs on the right, the road is about to fork towards Lake Powell northeast and Marble Canyon northwest in Arizona

Here they are, the Vermillion Cliffs. The road is about to divide, with one leg going northeast to Page and Lake Powell and the other northwest in the direction of Marble Canyon and the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The Vermillion cliffs run above the Colorado River and are an imposing wall that helps frame this beautiful area of Northern Arizona.

Looking north on the Colorado River at the Navajo Bridge in Arizona

It is about 6:00 p.m. when we reach the Navajo Bridge straddling the Canyon, perched high over the Colorado River. We can’t linger as the shadows are growing longer, and we need to get down to river level while we still have good light. The beginning of Marble Canyon is just around the corner and down a short road. This will take us to the river’s edge and Jay’s first close encounter with the mighty Colorado River at Lees Ferry, where whitewater trips into the Grand Canyon begin.

Caroline and Jay standing in the Colorado River at Marble Canyon in Arizona

Caroline is quick to doff her shoes and make her way to the river. We encourage Jay to do the same and he obliges with enthusiasm until his tender little toes hit the freezing cold water on Paria Beach. We spend a bit more time here smelling the sweet wildflowers along the shore and canyon walls bathed in the golden late afternoon sun.

Jay standing on top of Vermillion Cliffs near the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Driving up and over the Vermillion Cliffs, we are ascending the Kaibab Plateau. Along the way, we dip into a special treat Sonal and her mom made us earlier in the day. Jay is serving up the Pav Bhaji, which is a sort of mashed potato mixture with tomato, onion, lots of garlic, peas, and a particularly spicy masala. He rolls these up burrito-style in an Indian flatbread called Methi Roti, and we chow down while we continue our drive toward Utah. The heavy spices, green chili, and chili powder have nearly the same effect as the Starbucks from earlier, bringing new life into the car – our taste buds are now wide awake.

The sun setting on the Kaibab Plateau in Arizona

At the LeFevre Overlook, 6700 feet above sea level on the Kaibab Plateau in Northern Arizona, we watch the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky orange and gold with wispy clouds capturing the last rays of our setting star. By the end of the day, we had driven 507 miles, ending up in Richfield, Utah, to stay at the Apple Tree Inn. The time zone shifted us from Pacific to Mountain time, and with the lost hour, we finally got to our rooms close to midnight.

Arches to Mesa Verde – Day 2

Arches National Park near Moab, Utah

Today’s adventure starts in Moab, Utah, at Arches National Park.

Arches National Park near Moab, Utah

From the moment we first saw Delicate Arch in someone else’s photo, we knew we had to come see it for ourselves. It’s a lot bigger than I thought. I have another photo with Caroline standing below it, where you’d see that she’s tiny in comparison, but this is the better photo. I intended to take a selfie of us out there, but my vertigo got the best of me, and it turned out that Arturo also has a wicked fear of heights, so he was staying even further away from the edge than I was.

Arches National Park near Moab, Utah

Horses among the pictographs tell us that these etchings in the rock are relatively modern as pre-Columbian contact Native Americans didn’t have horses in North America.

Arches National Park near Moab, Utah

Landscape Arch was another big draw as it is razor-thin and feels like it could tumble to earth at any time.

Arches National Park near Moab, Utah

Balanced Rock requires no effort in the world to see it other than getting yourself to the park, as it is right next to the road. How about another park?

Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah

Dead Horse Point State Park, which looks a lot like Canyonlands National Park if you ask me, was the next park.

Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah

That’s the Colorado River out there; someday, we should raft that thing.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah

We peeked into Canyonlands National Park rather quickly but will save it for another visit as 10 minutes here won’t do it justice.

Bedrock Store in Bedrock, Colorado

Welcome to Bedrock, Colorado, where the Flintstones were filmed back in the early 1960s. Fred once bagged groceries here at the Bedrock Store while he was in high school and a couple of years before he met Wilma.

Bryce to the Great Basin – Day 1

Coral Pink Sand Dunes in Utah

We’ve been by the Coral Pink Sand Dunes before when the bright sun of the middle of the day helps them live up to their name. Here in the early morning dawn, they may seem a bit lackluster, but don’t let that keep you away.

Southern Utah

Just as the sun is about to creep over the mountains, we hit a patch of fog, making for some fairly nice god rays.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Bryce National Park in Utah

Today’s first major destination is Bryce Canyon National Park for a hike into a canyon.

Bryce National Park in Utah

The Queen’s Garden / Navajo Loop trail is a 2.9-mile round trip and offers some of the best views of Bryce Canyon, which looks totally different from below than from above.

Bryce National Park in Utah

Like all places we’ve been to the view changes dramatically when you change the location from which you are doing your gazing.

Bryce National Park in Utah

I cannot describe the depth, smell, and feel of the air and its temperature on my skin. I’ll never be able to adequately explain how the colors and contrast between blue and red challenged my eyes to find as much detail as I could. This photo is a weak reminder, albeit an important one, as it brings me back to the day, but I had to be here in person to create a sense of firsthand knowledge. While I would like to encourage everyone to get out and see the land where they live, I also have to be thankful that the majority are satisfied with the television view of our reality from the comfort of their own homes.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Nevada State Sign

Our second national park of the day requires us to change states and make our way to Nevada. It’s only a few hours away, so it’s well worth the minor effort.

Great Basin National Park in Nevada

We are at Great Basin National Park, driving up into the mountains.

Great Basin National Park in Nevada

This is the reason we are here today: the bristlecone pine tree. These trees can live up to 5,000 years and survive the worst conditions in the worst soils. When a tree dies, it is often that only a part of it will fall dead while the other half continues growing for centuries. The part that has died can dry into a wood that is often harder than steel. To get to these incredible trees, you’ll have to head to the trailhead at 10,000 feet and then climb another 800 feet to the trees.

Great Basin National Park in Nevada

Just the idea that these trees were standing vigil high in the mountains watching countless generations of humans come and go while we entered the Bronze Age, built the pyramids, learned to sail across oceans, ushered in the Renaissance, learned to fly, and built weapons that could destroy most life on Earth. Prior to today, I don’t believe I ever thought that I’d reach out and touch a living thing that was thousands of years old.

Caroline Wise at Silver Jack Motel in Baker, Nevada

We’re gonna hang out in Baker, Nevada tonight as we didn’t have time to visit the caves up in the Great Basin and have decided to pay them their due in the morning.