Salt Lake City

Coral Pink Sand Dunes near Kanab, Utah

Attention: This post, like so many travel entries I made in the earliest days of blogging, was a mere one photo. Here in late 2022, I’ve been repairing them.

Left Kanab, Utah, as the sun crept over the horizon, with it just visible, we were passing the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park at the start of a beautiful day.

Maisy the Donkey from Glendale, Utah

Woah, this is Maisy the Donkey, who we just met last year during winter and was a juvenile; her coat was much darker. As a young lady donkey, she’s shed that thick hair, and her ears sprouted right up. We are passing through Glendale, Utah.

Man sitting under a bunch of balloons near Panguitch, Utah

This is John Ninomiya flying his cluster balloons near Panguitch, Utah, at their annual balloon rally.

Somewhere along Utah Route 89

While I can tell you that we are on state route 89, I can’t tell you anything else here other than I loved the reflection.

Courthouse Inn in Junction, Utah

Courthouse Inn in Junction, Utah, is for rent for people who might need eight bedrooms and 4.5 bathrooms for that larger family reunion they’ve been planning.

On the way to Salt Lake City in Utah

Many of the photos I take are for the future should the day come when we can’t explore these areas, and we need the reminder of what the landscape looked like when we were able to travel and stop wherever and whenever we felt like it.

On the way to Salt Lake City in Utah

Driving by free-flowing water always demands an extra moment when you understand that so little of America’s waterways are still flowing and not dammed.

On the way to Salt Lake City in Utah

It may feel like summer at home, but the green and the snowcapped mountains remind us that spring is just giving way to summer in other parts of the states.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Abravanel Hall in Salt Lake City, Utah

I could tell you we went to see a performance of A Prairie Home Companion with Garrison Keillor today at Abravanel Hall in Salt Lake City, Utah, but no one we know has heard of this National Public Radio show. Linda Ronstadt and Ann Savoy performed, as did Ramblin’ Jack Elliot.

Prairie Home Companion being performed at Abravanel Hall in Salt Lake City, Utah

Ramblin’ Jack Elliot is a bit of a legend having studied under Woody Guthrie and subsequently using that influence to help Guthrie’s son Arlo learn the craft.

Prairie Home Companion being performed at Abravanel Hall in Salt Lake City, Utah

We’ve heard their voices a hundred times, that is, Fred Newman (left), Tim Russell (middle),  and Sue Scott (right), who live on from their performances in Guy Noir, The Lives of the Cowboys, and of course the messages from the Catchup Advisory Board.

Prairie Home Companion being performed at Abravanel Hall in Salt Lake City, Utah

It was a great show for those of us oldies who like that kind of thing.

Salt Lake Temple in Salt Lake City, Utah

After the show, we took a walking tour of the downtown area, visiting Temple Square and admiring the people walking around a bustling downtown area with open restaurants and cafes.

Downtown Salt Lake City, Utah

The UTA light rail system moving people around actually had riders late in the day – take that, Phoenix.

Bountiful Lake in Woods Cross, Utah

Our day ended at Bountiful Lake, pictured above, near the Great Salt Lake and Ogden. Lodging was at the Alana Motel in Clearfield, Utah.

Jutta On The Road – Day 15

Mokee Dugway in southern Utah

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

There is no swinging steak and eggs for breakfast at the Mexican Hat Lodge, and Monument Valley is not on the itinerary for this trip, so we are heading into new territory on Jutta’s behalf. Regarding the weather, no worries. I’ve looked ahead in my photos and see that we’ll be enjoying blue skies later in the day, but for now, we have drama above.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on the Mokee Dugway in southern Utah

There’s also the matter of drama in our backsides as we drive up this narrow gravel road known as the Mokee Dugway, which, while beautiful, is fraught with nail-biting fear as the edge of oblivion is always too close for comfort. Yep, it’s cold and windy up here at this overlook, and Jutta’s thin little cardigan ain’t cutting it.

Fry Canyon Lodge in southern Utah

We used to take photos of places as reminders with the idea that one day, we’d return and stay at that place. Well, it turns out that Fry Canyon Lodge was closed for renovations, except those renovations would never end or maybe never begin because it never opened again.

On the way to Lake Powell, Utah

There’s a river out there, a mighty and great river.

Colorado River flowing to Lake Powell in Utah

It’s called Colorado.

Upper end of Lake Powell in Utah

Little did we know that the era of Lake Powell reaching all the way up here to the Hite Marina was well over. Across the way, on the right, you might be able to make out the boat ramp, obviously, it no longer reaches the water. The bleached rock was underwater just a few years before, but in 2002, the lake level dropped too far.

Plant flowering in southern Utah

Reminder to self: not all views must be vistas and dramatic horizons; there are spectacles closer to us if we slow down and check out what’s around us.

Approaching Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

We’ll continue on Utah State Route 95 a ways further as our destination is mostly to the west.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

No, Jutta didn’t just go and get tough; it was warming up by the time we reached the Capitol Reef National Park.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

With water flowing through the park, we’d be extra cautious as it’s been drilled into Caroline and me regarding the threat of flash floods. We are far too timid to risk something like being caught by one.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

So, instead, we’ll take the high road.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

The really high road overlooking the entirety of Earth!

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

Oh my god, I don’t know if I can drive over that. Both sides fall off at such an angle that only death can result from leaving the road. Why are there no guardrails on this ridge? My plan was to look way out there and ensure I wouldn’t see one other car ahead of us and then drive right down the yellow stripe, and that worked I can only hope I never have to drive this again in my life.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

Well, if this is the reward for maneuvering the precarious tiny slice of road, maybe it was worth it.

Somewhere between Capitol Reef and Bryce National Park's in Utah

I’ll bet a dollar that before engine-driven water pumping all the beauty in the world didn’t make up for how hard it was to farm out here. Now that we can extract every drop of fresh water from below our feet, you can bet that’s just what we’ll do.

Jutta Engelhardt at Bryce National Park in Utah

National Park number two is right here at Bryce. Years ago, when we first brought Jutta through the area, we only got as far as Zion, so now we’re closing the loop.

Bryce National Park in Utah

It’s late in the day when we got here, which you can easily tell by the shadows, huh? So there will be no hikes into the hoodoos, but then again, nobody would ever expect that of us as we race across the United States, the entire western United States.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Bryce National Park in Utah

Sometimes, a selfie with just the two of us reminds us that we are here together, which can easily be lost when Jutta and Caroline try to spend as much quality time together as possible while taking in a million new sights and experiences.

Jutta On The Road – Day 14

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on the Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

My mother-in-law might be old, but she’s not that old, meaning that this is her first steam engine train ride, and she had to come all the way to America for the experience. Like so many people, as they grow older, Jutta finds herself to be cold while the rest of us are comfortable. Knowing this, we bought her a new sweater while we were in Yellowstone so she could give up my old Jackson Hole sweater she’s been monopolizing. The first big sweater she acquired in the United States also came from a National Park, Zion, and it was a nice deep green.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

We are on the Durango-to-Silverton Narrow Gauge Steam Train en route north from Durango to, you can guess it, Silverton. The trip is three and a half hours long each way, with a two-hour stopover for lunch. We could have opted for a speedier coach ride back, but we love the experience out here. The cost of the roundtrip is $62 per adult and $31 per child. (As I add to this entry in 2022, yep, this paragraph above was part of the original post; the price of the open gondola car is now $115 per adult)

Jutta Engelhardt on the Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

It’s called a gondola, but I can’t help but think of it as the cattle car with shade. Why are we all the way back here instead of up in first class? We are cheap, but that’s not the only reason; I like the idea of being able to jump back and forth from side to side for photos without asking someone to use their window. Then there’s also the benefit of feeling the mountain air and being bathed in the soot from the burning coal.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

This is a perfect example of what I just explained as I’m obviously now on the left side of the train admiring the view from the opposite side…as if by magic.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

There’s a lot to see out here, and while the train moves along at a relatively slow pace, you must be ready at all times if you want to capture some of the best sights.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

We were just on the road that passed all of this yesterday, and yet the world looks distinctly different from this perspective.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

Pulling into Silverton.

It was getting late when we pulled in yesterday for dinner at the Black Bear Cafe, and as we still needed to check into our room, we wasted no time and ate before jumping back in the car to continue south. Today, we have two full hours here.

Jutta Engelhardt at Handlebars Saloon in Silverton, Colorado

Lunch was at the Handlebars Saloon, which comes with plenty of Western flair for a sweet German lady who I think still pinches herself that she’s doing any of this.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

See that blown-out cloud? I was still shooting jpegs instead of RAW due to storage demands and processing requirements. We were traveling so much, and often, when my mother-in-law was here, we’d select a bunch of photos before she returned to Germany, get them printed, and pack them up with her for the flight home. Shooting RAW wouldn’t have allowed this convenience, and also, of note, the software for processing RAW, along with the slow CPU, crap operating system, and expensive hard drives, all conspired to dissuade me from opting for the better quality. Now, all these years later, you can be sure I regret it.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

Leaving the small mining town of Silverton behind.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

It seems there was a high level of confidence that this river corridor wasn’t prone to flooding; otherwise, whose idea was it to put this narrow train track right here?

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

You might think sitting at the far back of the train is disadvantageous. Obviously, it’s not – while I may not see where we are going, I have the best view of where we’ve been.

Rafting the Animas River next to the Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

I don’t believe I was aware of it at the time, but we could have taken the train to Silverton and rafted the Animas River back to Durango, not that I would have been all that comfortable with my mother-in-law putting her back into paddling whitewater. Heck, I don’t know if I had the guts at that time.

Durango & Silverton Steam Train in Colorado

Almost back to town, where we’ll collect the car and start our drive west.

Somewhere between Durango, Colorado and Mexican Hat, Utah

Also, in the area in Mesa Verde National Park, which we didn’t have time to visit this time, and maybe as interesting is the lesser-known Ute Mountain Tribal Park that we are passing.

Somewhere between Durango, Colorado and Mexican Hat, Utah

Sunset over the Old West can only mean one thing.

Mexican Hat Lodge in southern Utah

That means that dinner must be under the stars and include a good portion of cowboy beans. The Mexican Hat Lodge serves up just that, along with the world-famous swinging steak. Mexican Hat is located between Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley; a better place to stay and eat cannot be found.

Jutta On The Road – Day 13

Crossing an arm of the Green River on WY-530 in southern Wyoming

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Woke up in Green River, Wyoming, and before getting on the road south, we stopped in for breakfast at Buckaroos Family Restaurant because what sounds more old west than that? Wyoming State Road 530 is a small road, which suits us fine; it was on that when we crossed this arm of the Green River on its way to Flaming Gorge down in Utah.

Utah Road 44 Between Manila and Flaming Gorge

Utah State Route 44 is an amazing drive, not only for the incredible beauty it traverses, but there are interpretive signs all over the area telling what kind of deposits were laid down here, during which era in the historic record they came to be, and what you might find int hem such as alligators, dinosaurs, petrified sand dunes, or in the case of the Park City Formation from the Permian, phosphate for fertilizer.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Dinosaur National Monument in Jensen, Utah

Funny that across the border in Colorado is the town of Dinosaur, but here in Jensen, Utah, the Dinosaur National Monument is found.

Dinosaur National Monument in Jensen, Utah

This skull pokes out of the petrified mud on the upturned river bed along with hundreds of other fossils frozen where they fell millions of years ago or within the past 6,000 years, depending upon your particular belief system.

Dinosaur National Monument in Jensen, Utah

So there they were, God and a bunch of his (her?) assistants (?). It was the third day of creation, and dry land and plants had just been created. Already, I’ve got serious issues here as those plants need a sun for photosynthesis, but that arrives only the next day, and what about the water? Water shows up on day 5. But let’s go back to day 3. This is devious because with the dry land already in place, God knew that in the future, day 6 for him specifically, he was going to create land animals and people, which means in the making of all this rock, he planted hints in the shape of giant extinct lifeforms, knowing we’d be baffled by the mystery. I suppose I can go with the idea that he knew that the people he was creating were not going to be as dumb as a river bed of rocks, but come on, look around you. We are that box of rocks.

Dinosaur National Monument in Jensen, Utah

Come on now, those of deep faith, just go ahead and admit that the spine that was destined for you got lost in the mud of creation, turned to stone, and now your ability to consider reality is as petrified as these old dinosaurs right here.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at the Colorado Stateline

Well, that was probably enough of me blaspheming his holiness’ mythologies and so we should just get on down the road and into Colorado, the colorful (and windy) place.

Old trading post likely near Rangely, Colorado

Ah, here’s something else I can stir the pot about. Remember Native Americans? Yeah, not many do because our ancestors were close to being fully effective in making relics like those found encased in stone, such as the dinosaurs. Do you know why that is? Because we are white gods cleansing the world of pesky things we don’t need, such as clean air, water, food security, a roof over poor people’s heads, and compassion. I’m not saying all of us whites are bad, just the bad ones, and you all know who you are. Sweet Jesus, our Lord in Heaven, says the atheist to nobody reading this; what’s the big axe yer grinding here? Oh, you think vacation is all about double cheeseburgers and sunshine? Luckily, we can still pass reminders of the people who lived on these lands for THOUSANDS of years before George, Helmut, and Lorenzo dropped in to kill everything that moved.

Pictograph at Canyon Pintado off Highway 139 south of Rangely, Colorado

Pictographs at Canyon Pintado are the only other reminders left in all of Colorful Colorado that Native Americans once lived in the area. Take notice of the red outline of the arms and hands, somebody (defaced) painted it all white in an effort to erase the reference to the Indian that first made it.

Pictograph at Canyon Pintado off Highway 139 south of Rangely, Colorado

Oh, it seems I was mistaken, and the evil oppressors missed something; no worries, I destroyed it right after I took this photo. Seriously, this is wall tongue-in-cheek, but I do have a real beef in that I don’t think America has begun to reconcile its sordid past of hate-based politics of exclusion. As for the God stuff above my incendiary Native American blatherings, that nonsense is just beyond the pale and needs to be retired.

Grand Mesa Byway in Colorado

Grand Mesa Byway is a terrific byway as far as byways go. The road travels to places that, if you’ve never been on this byway, will be unseen by you until you travel out this way. And when you get to the destinations the Grand Mesa Byway will bring you to, you’ll know that you’ve been there because that’s what byways do.

Grand Mesa Byway in Colorado

Uh, we did not; I repeat, we specifically did NOT order snow for this trip. A frozen lake in June? Give me a break; it’s summer, right?

Grand Mesa Byway in Colorado

Sure, I know there’s snow out there, but that’s just decorative, so I can attempt to take dramatic photos.

Ouray, Colorado

Ouray back when it was just a small mountain town still unclaimed by the wealthy horde that was about to take it over.

On the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado

The Million Dollar Highway was cut out of Billion Dollar Views.

On the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado

Why there is Twenty Dollar Weather hanging out over perfection is an unknown, kind of like how God creates light on the first day, but the sun doesn’t show up until day 4. I’m living in some kind of Catholic Parallel Universe trying to make sense of what’s inspiring me to write so much nonsense when I’m obviously not writing a bible.

Brown Bear Cafe in Silverton, Colorado

Brown Bear Cafe in Silverton was our temporary heaven as they had hot food. There were no angels, but they did have dessert.

On the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado

We are quickly running out of light, and me out of ideas about what else I can write here to finish fleshing out this blog post that would probably have been a whole lot better had I written it 17 years ago as the events of the day were unfolding. Well, at least the photos are now here.

Zion National Park

Caroline Wise near Cedar Breaks, Utah

With upwards of 11 feet of snow on the road ahead, there was no visiting Cedar Breaks National Monument today.

Near Cedar Breaks, Utah

It’s nice to visit places with snow as opposed to living in places with snow, and the opportunity to visit on such a blue-sky day is just an absolute delight.

Caroline Wise near Cedar Breaks, Utah

Friendly horses next to the side of the road also help bring another level of happiness to our travels.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Zion National Park in Utah

And then we arrive at another National Park and have to stop for yet another selfie in front of the park sign.

Zion National Park in Utah

This is such a beautiful place with fond memories of our first visit back in 1999.

Zion National Park in Utah

The deep blue sky forms the perfect backdrop for the bands of red rocks punctuated by puffs of sage and a few random trees.

Zion National Park in Utah

Carved out and worn down, the sandstone that remains offers many hints of what was once here before the weather and time wore the earth down.

Zion National Park in Utah

Epic views pop out at you when driving into the park. If only we could walk in instead of rushing in with a car.

Caroline Wise in Zion National Park in Utah

My less-than-virgin steps into the icy waters of the Virgin River right here in Zion National Park.

Zion National Park in Utah

The colors of fall hang on until spring starts to show its face, which is still about six weeks away.

Arizona Strip

Never thought we’d visit this corner of Arizona. Welcome to the Arizona Strip, the one corner of the state you cannot visit if you are trying to get here from Arizona. The only way in and out is from Highway 15, which crosses between Utah and Nevada.

Hoover Dam in Arizona

The memory of Lake Mead lapping at the spillway feels like it was 100 years ago. The white rock is bleached from when the waters were that high.

Near Hoover Dam in Arizona

While it may still be winter in Utah, here in Arizona, south of the Hoover Dam, it is apparently springtime already.

Near Hoover Dam in Arizona

Our last glimpse of the Colorado River as it makes its way down to Havasu Lake before a trickle of the flow might make it to Mexico. Our weekend jaunt is over, and with about 45 minutes of light left, we’d be getting home in the dark. All-in-all it was a great little trip that put great little smiles on our faces.

Lake Powell to Bryce National Park

Lake Powell in Arizona

Well, at least there’s still some water left in our quickly disappearing lake here in Page, Arizona. It’s a beautiful though slightly chilly morning here as we point the car north and head into…

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Utah State line with Arizona

Utah! Isn’t it nice to just go out on some random day and see what the world around you looks like?

Road side in southern Utah

The spectacle of our exposed earth shows us its long, deep history by putting itself on display for all to see.

Dirt road in Utah

Pahreah Ghost Town is up that road, and while it’s tempting to go check things out, we couldn’t be sure that we wouldn’t find a wet, impassable part of the road, so we played things safe and made a note to help our memory bring us back this way someday.

Pie and Coffee at Thunderbird Restaurant in Mount Carmel Junction, Utah

We finally did it and stopped at the Thunderbird Restaurant in Mount Carmel Junction, Utah. This is the home of the “Ho-Made Pie,” and in that classical all-American setting where pie and coffee are able to put your mindset of the 1960s road trip on Route 66, this is that place.

Caroline Wise and Maisy the Donkey in Glendale, Utah

Meet Maisy the Donkey. This cute young lady lives in Glendale, Utah, and might be the friendliest donkey EVER!

Caroline Wise making snow angels in Utah

We leave Arizona with spring-like weather and end up visiting winter, where the snow angels take flight.

Bryce National Park, Utah

A bit more snow than we’d counted on.

Bryce National Park, Utah

We had entertained the idea that we might hike a short trail here in Bryce National Park, but upon looking out here, we were not prepared with the proper clothes or shoes.

Bryce National Park, Utah

Seeing Bryce covered like this is certainly a treat. By the time we landed in Cedar City, we were early enough that we were able to have a luxurious dinner at Taco Time before checking into the Cedar Rest motel for the great rate of only $26. Saving so much money on food and lodging, we stepped up the indulgence and visited the Stadium 8 theater to catch a screening of Clint Eastwood’s new film, “Million Dollar Baby.”