Yampa – Day 3

Yampa River

So, if you’ve already read Day 1 and Day 2 of this blog about our trip down the Yampa, you may have noticed that Day 1 had a lot of detail, and Day 2 seemed to be off. The truth of the matter is that Day 1 was written years ago when the trip was still fresh in our minds. Today, it is May 11, 2018, and with four years between that river trip and now, much about what was occurring is lost somewhere in the back of my mind.

Yampa River

I could wax about the feelings that seeing these photos brings back, but as I write here on a one-hundred-degree-hot day at a Starbucks, I’m mostly at a loss to pen anything meaningful. This is tragic to me because, with other blog entries where I’ve captured an abundance of details pertaining to the day, I’ve always enjoyed reminiscing and having impressions come back to me that would have otherwise been lost forever.

Yampa River

And so it will be regarding Day 3 of our Yampa River adventure: many things I would have ended up sharing with you normally will not even be shared between myself and Caroline. I suppose this will have to end up being a photo album entry.

Yampa River

Now, where we could get lucky is if Caroline has memories tucked away where she could bring them out and add to my not-developing meander through this poor excuse. At this point, I might recommend to the reader to just skip the rest of the text that will follow, as it might just be more of the same. Then again, maybe the wife adds some interesting bits.

Yampa River

It’s beautiful, isn’t it?

Yampa River

Spectacular even.

Yampa River

This 180-degree curve in the river is “graced” by the Grand Overhang. These photos are not capable of conveying the scale of this landscape.

Yampa River

That’s Sarge upfront, and Willie (from Scotland) behind him; the other names are lost in time. While most of the rafts on our trip were rowed by guides, there was one paddle raft that could be rowed by guests, and every day, a few volunteers decided to experience the river under their own oar power. There is a guide sitting in the back, steering the craft and giving commands to the rowers as needed (usually when we hit white water).

Yampa River

I’m writing about an equal amount of description as one thinks about much of anything while out on the river, just taking in the incredible moments of being fortunate enough to even be in such an environment.

Yampa River

They say a picture speaks 1000 words.

Yampa River

You don’t have to go far before the landscape shifts again, and this corner looks a bit different than the previous one or the one ahead.

Yampa River

The road ahead is paved with perfection and elegance; you just have to put yourself on that path to find it everywhere.

Visiting Mantle Cave on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Mantle Cave

Sandstone along the Yampa River

Patterns were meant to be studied. They are how we find our way through ourselves and the universe.

Visiting Mantle Cave on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Granary

A change in scenery: we have left the river for a hike before lunch. River rafting is a bit like shampooing your hair: raft, hike, eat, repeat.

Yampa River

Try to find a better view for lunch. If you should be so lucky to have 100 incredible views for your midday meal during the course of your life, I’d think you were doing pretty good.

Lunch on the Yampa River

Knives and mayonnaise on a river trip to make sure we are having the complete experience.

Rafting the Yampa River

Stomachs full, it was not time for a nap, it was time to get back on the river so we could find another beautiful place for dinner.

Yampa River

This is the Tiger Wall, also known as “Kissing Rock,” and you can bet that all of us got the chance to step up while on our rafts and kiss the largest face we may ever kiss in all our lives.

Yampa River

Shortly thereafter, we encountered “the sporty rapid” here on the Yampa, Warm Springs Rapid. It was formed by a flash flood in the 1960s, and there are many stories about it because there were several trips in the area during that time. For us, the best part of this run for those in our raft was that just after I took this photo we got hung up on a shallow boulder that just kept us in place while raging white water rushed around us. Next, our boatman tried rowing us off our perch, and we tried to help by jumping around in an effort to shift the weight of the raft just enough so we could continue our trip downriver instead of having the water swamp our raft and push us into the churn. After a few tense moments, we successfully escaped our rock in the middle of white water, for which I was incredibly grateful.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

This is the second full can of beer Caroline has rescued from a river; what kind of luck is that? Yes, she drank it.

Camp next to the Yampa River

When you see boatmen gathered on rafts in this configuration, it means they are done for the day, almost. Between pulling into camp and making our dinner, they usually take about a half-hour to an hour to chill and evaluate the day, maybe talk about tomorrow’s plans.

Yampa – Day 2

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

Finished yesterday with a “minor” mishap. As we went off to sleep, we found out that my CPAP battery had given up its charge. Inexplicably, it simply appeared to be dead, and after the initial panic that I would be without my CPAP for the length of the river trip, we had to accept our new situation and hoped it would not interfere too much with the quality of our trip down the river. So far, so good, and here we are, all bright smiles and ready for whatever comes next.

Rafting down the Yampa

For something to happen, we must go forward in search of just what that will be. For those of us who have never been here, this is pure exploration.

On the Yampa River

Deeper into the canyons, our boatmen row while we indulge in the luxury of taking time to see our surroundings.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

Close-up detail of the cliff in front of us.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

The canyons and the rocks they are made from vary from corner to corner, and it is often the contrast between the types and colors that demand the greatest scrutiny.

Rafting the Yampa River

Those dark gray clouds portend something ominous in the distance. While it’s too early for a serious monsoon, it’s never too early for a good rain shower. Good thing that just a couple of hundred feet down the river can change your entire perspective; maybe blue skies are still going to arrive?

Kayaker on the Yampa River

We take an early camp so we can go on a hike; this is the view from where we are spending the night.

Plant life along the Yampa River

With our tents set up, Caroline and I wander around to investigate the area. The first plant to catch my attention was this juniper tree.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Sometimes, the beautiful depth of field and particular lighting are enough for me to post a photo to add visual memories to our journeys.

Plant life along the Yampa River

I could be mistaken, but I think this is a variety of sagebrush.

Trail for our hike along the Yampa River

As remote as this place feels and in spite of the fact that you can only get here by the river, there’s enough foot traffic to keep the trails clear and well-defined.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Just like I can never post enough photos of rivers, oceans, cliffs, animals, clouds, and Caroline, I can’t post enough of the plant life we find, either.

Panorama near our camp on the Yampa River

The sky grew dramatic and maybe even a little bit threatening.

Plying the Yampa River

It is warming the cockles to see a dory with its iconic form plying the waters in front of our camp.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Note: you can’t imagine my shock when here in the last 48 hours of 2023, methodically working through these blog posts and scanning for grammar inconsistencies and omissions, I discovered this, and the next two images had no text. There really is nothing to add as in the intervening years, we’ve not found any lost journals that could lend details to these days on the Yampa. 

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Not the loveliest of weather for a hike.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Good thing there are lovely flowers along the trail; they’ll certainly appreciate whatever rain they can capture.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Despite the looming clouds, our group decided to hike up to Wagon Wheel Point, which promised dramatic views over the Yampa. John decided to sit this one out because of his recently injured knee. Led by most of the guides, we hiked up the Bull Canyon Trail, which is relatively short but quite steep (about 500ft elevation gain in a bit over 1 mile). Once we had reached the canyon rim, we walked a bit further on what looked like an unpaved road to reach the overlook at Wagon Wheel Point. It was very humid but never actually rained, although there was lightning and thunder. Needless to say, we didn’t linger and turned around soon.

Plying the Yampa River

And then their travel companions brought up the rear as they went by effortlessly on the way to their camp.

NOTE: It’s now four years after we took this trip when I’m posting details for days 2, 3, 4, and 5. The brain is foggy, and while the pictures lend something back about the days, I’m left to a pure interpretation of them for the story. Caroline will have made a once-over on my writing by the time you are reading this and will have hopefully added some of her recollections, too. (May 9, 2018)

Yampa – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the put-in for the Yampa river

Here we are, set to go out on our third river trip, this time on the Yampa and Green Rivers. Yet again, we’ll be traveling with our favorite boatman, Bruce Keller, as well as river friends Steve “Sarge” Alt and “First Light” Frank Kozyn. We first met all three on our Colorado River adventure in 2010, and Bruce has since then also been our guide on the Alsek in Alaska. Our put-in today is at Deerlodge Park in Colorado on the eastern edge of Dinosaur National Monument. Unlike our previous multi-week trips, this “little” sojourn will only be five days long. At Deerlodge Park, we pack up our dry bags, find a personal flotation device that appeals to us, go through a safety talk, and before we know it, it’s time to get to the business at hand.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The brochure promised us plenty of sunshine, flush toilets, and feather beds. So far, our guides have certainly delivered on the first promise; we could not have wished for better weather. Back at the put-in, the terrain was relatively flat and for a moment did not portend that within an hour we’d be entering canyons, but here they are, and with their arrival, a rush of intrigue comes with this change in landscape.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The passage narrows, and it starts to feel as if civilization moves further away from us. While not as expansive as the Alsek and not as deep and broad as the Grand Canyon, the intimacy of the Yampa here in Dinosaur National Monument is already allowing me to feel like this place is of a size that I can take in and almost comprehend.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the water getting a little choppier, the sense of being somewhere wild grows within. The adventure of the trip starts to take hold.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Geological details surround us. This is about the time I started to dream of a trip without a schedule where we could pull up to the cliffside and examine the sandstone, look for fossils, or just hang out and bask in the location we are so lucky to be experiencing.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

It’s just past midday, and we’ll pull into our first camp early to give us plenty of time to set up our tents, build out the kitchen, do some exploring, or just chill out and enjoy the moment.

Lichen in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Our tent is up in minutes, and soon, we are out examining what’s to be found in our new neighborhood. Turns out there’s this gang of lichen hanging out, and while it looks soft and fluffy, looks can be deceiving. We also found a good amount of cacti giving us the stink eye, but no dinosaurs yet…..hmmm, I wonder if any of the other guests could be considered one?

Steve Alt (Sarge) and Frank Kozyn (First Light Frank) washing dishes off the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

That’s Sarge on the left and First Light Frank on the right; they are the official dishwashers on this trip down the Yampa. I just dare you to try to come between these two former Marines and their dishes. They even travel with their own gloves.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the rafts tucked away for the night and our bellies full, the only thing left to do was sit around a fire and talk. Like all first days out on a river, this one came with most everyone cutting out early and catching up on the sleep they’d been deprived of over the previous couple of travel days as we converged on Vernal, Utah, where the trip first organized before heading to our put-in this morning. It’s great to be out here on a river again, wondering what big adventure awaits us around the next corner.

Going Boating

Caroline Wise in Page, Arizona

Last night, we drove up to Page, Arizona, on Lake Powell to position ourselves for the long drive to Vernal, Utah. Without distractions, the road is nearly 500 miles long and will require about 8 hours to cover. We don’t want to be late, as being well-rested tonight and able to rise early tomorrow is imperative. The boat Caroline is standing in front of is John Wesley Powell’s famous boat, “Emma Dean’, not the real one, but a recreation built by the Disney Company for a movie they made about Powell’s trek down the Colorado. A part of his journey was on the Green River, the same river that we’ll be joining during our big adventure that starts tomorrow.

John Wise with Maisy the Donkey in Glendale, Utah

We may not see Maisy the Donkey often here in Glendale, Utah, but we’d swear that she remembers us as every time we stop, she brays and comes right over for a snuggle.

Caroline Wise with Maisy the Donkey in Glendale, Utah

Maisy was just a youngster when we met; she’s a seriously affectionate donkey.

Somewhere in Utah

Not a great photo, I’ll grant but we rarely see Golden Eagles. My apologies for the dearth of images that accompany this 500-mile day, but my attention was elsewhere, as in getting my nerve together for the five days of whitewater rafting that awaits us.

Canyonlands to Natural Bridges

Newspaper Rock on the way to The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park in Utah

Updated in 2022: On the previous day’s post I added an addendum while I’m opting to insert some photos I felt were missing from this post. As we headed into Canyonlands, we stopped at Newspaper Rock.

An old abandoned granary at Canyonlands National Park in Utah

Today is Memorial Day, the day we commemorate U.S. soldiers who died in military service. Standing at this abandoned granary in the Needles district of Canyonlands National Park, I can’t help but think that there is not a day set aside to recognize the Native Americans who died during their own military service to defend the lands they called home. If we can have a Martin Luther King Jr day, then I think we can just as easily have a National Day of Recognition for Native Americans.

Cryptobiotic soil in Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The earth I stand upon is actually a trail, and the park service would prefer that I remain on this trail. All around me is cryptobiotic soil. This fragile habitat is what holds the surface together and makes life for many species possible in this arid environment. If you click the picture above to open the larger image, you can see the detail of the cyanobacteria, mosses, and lichen – well, I can only guess that is what you can see because I’m not a biologist, but there is definitely some type of species making the soil its place of dwelling.

The trailhead of the Confluence Overlook Trail in Canyonlands National Park in Utah

We are on our way home today and only visiting the Needles district of Canyonlands National Park for a short time, figuring we shouldn’t be getting home too late. These rocks are at the end of a road where a trail begins that takes visitors out to the confluence overlook of the Colorado and Green rivers. As we were about to leave, we nodded and said hello to two ladies who were donning hiking boots and about to embark on the trail when we recognized them from our hike out to Horseshoe Canyon on Saturday. These ladies from Poland are easily in their mid-60s, if not just about 70, and are a grand inspiration in tackling this nearly 11-mile trail today.

Unidentified plant near Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The end of the road was our destination and turnaround point. On the way back out of Canyonlands, the sun’s position in the sky allowed us to better appreciate the carpet of wildflowers stretching in all directions. So much for making good time up the road as we whipped out the macro lens and tried stopping for each species of flower we could spot – at 5 miles per hour. When what might be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity arises that gives you the chance to witness something so spectacular, you must take the time and disregard the potential discomfort or tiredness at a later time, lest you’d look back and feel foolish for hurrying along and missing out on greatness seldom seen.

Unidentified flower near Canyonlands National Park in Utah

Oh, more flowers, more than one could shake two sticks at. I could easily post 15 or more photos of the various types of blossoms that presented themselves roadside on this beautiful day. It took close to an hour to travel the 10 miles between the park exit and Newspaper Rock. Down on our knees or sitting on our butts, we lingered amongst the flowers, taking in their scents and colors. In a week, would they still be here to dazzle those visitors?

Panorama of landscape near Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The scenery out here on a spring day wants to stop the car on its own accord and forces us from our seats to spend a quiet, intimate moment with nature. At this rate, we’ll be home at midnight. When we were here four hours earlier, it was beautiful then, too, but now the light is absolutely perfect. This is one more of those occasions of finding yet another perfect place on earth, one that makes you think, “Hey, I could live here, and then I’d know how the view changes with the day, the season, and the weather.”

Stand of aspen trees near Monticello, Utah in the Manti-La Sal National Forest

We are not far from the main road when a paved road on the right appears to be a detour we haven’t taken before. County Road 136 says it leads to Monticello and so we take it. We begin to climb into the Manti-La Sal National Forest and mountain range. What a find, out of the desert and into the forest. The views from up here stretch for a hundred miles north. While the view was terrific to our eyes, the haze did nothing for the camera and the quality of the images I shot. So instead, I offer these aspen trees, and more specifically, I offer them to my daughter Jessica, who long ago told me that she loves aspen, and now when I see a stand of them, I think of her.

Deer roadside on County Road 101 west of Monticello, Utah

The road was hardly long enough; we could have easily stayed all day on this twisting section of pavement. A couple of patches of snow dotted the hillsides, soon to be gone with summer just around the next corner. More pullouts and some benches to sit for hours and gaze out over Canyonlands to the west, the La Sal mountains to the north, and Ute Mountain to the east over in Colorado would have been welcomed. What was the next best thing? A deer gazing at us. Next to the road at the edge of the forest, a staring contest was begun. Wait a minute, is that a lawn ornament? A silly place for one if it is, ok, it blinked and went back to foraging.

The Peace Tree Juice Cafe in Monticello, Utah

Out of the woods and into town. How is it that the little blip on the road of Monticello, Utah, has this awesome place called The Peace Tree Juice Cafe serving up some great all-natural, organic, fresh, diverse foods, and in Phoenix, we get Applebee’s? There are Peace Tree locations in Moab and Blanding as well; how did we miss stopping in at the Moab location? Drats.

Air Freshener from Torsten Kühne of Frankfurt, Germany

A friend of ours from Frankfurt, Germany, Torsten Kühne, had made a bunch of air fresheners as part of an art project to have people send him photos of the air freshener from around the world.

The trail to Sipapu natural bridge in Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah

A little further south, we arrive at our last stop of this trip, Natural Bridges National Monument. Caroline grabs the Junior Ranger booklet and we scoot to the trail as quickly as we can. This is our second visit to the park, but this particular trail was new for the two of us. We only went as far as the big overhang to view Sipapu Bridge as time was closing in us. The next one, Kachina Bridge we gazed at from the main paved trail. But the third bridge had to be seen from below.

Underneath the Owachomo bridge in Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah

Years ago, we took our picture under this very bridge, the Owachomo Bridge. Somehow, we hadn’t recognized back then that the trail continued under the bridge to where this photo was taken. Look under Owachomo; Caroline is standing there in a yellow shirt. I also learned today that there is a trail that loops for 8.6 miles from Sipapu to Kachina to Owachomo and back to the parking area at Sipapu – it seems like there is always something to come back to in the National Park system.

Caroline Wise getting her Junior Ranger Badge at Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

Back when Caroline started doing these Junior Ranger programs, little did we know how many she’d collect; adding this is part of our effort to identify the various places and the dates she got them.

Moki Dugway near Mexican Hat, Utah

We often wonder how many times we’ve been to places, and it was just this year when we were trying to figure out if we’d ever driven down the Moki Dugway or if we’d always driven up it. This photo answers that question, as from the series of images, we were obviously on our way down that way.

An empty sales stall at Monument Valley in Utah at sunset

It’s late now, and it no longer really matters how much more time is taken because we will be home somewhere in the middle of the night. So why not stop once more at the Mexican Hat Lodge and grab dinner? We did; I could not resist another swinging steak. We wolfed down dinner, trying to bask in the atmosphere for the brief visit, and were once again going south. As on our trip up north a few days prior, we are passing through Monument Valley again at sunset. The shops have closed up, the natives have gone home, no more jewelry for sale today.

Monument Valley, Arizona

Update in 2022: Why so many images were left out is a mystery to me; maybe I was thinking that we’d already shared too many images of those places.

Desert Details

Various plants, flowers, and dead old logs on the desert floor in Arches National Park in Utah

While traveling, I shoot a lot of photos, too many to post. Often, it is a chore trying to pick a few favorites that I will post with a short narrative about our journey. It can be too easy a choice to select those images with sweeping horizons, vast landscapes, and dramatic sunsets. But that can also give the impression that I miss the fine points. So today, I am showing the fine details and skipping the grandiose.

Desert plant life in Arches National Park in Utah

At sunrise on a holiday weekend, there is no waiting at the ranger booth to pay fees; two hours later, there will be over a hundred cars backed up with impatient families racing to collect an experience or two as they zoom over the road to a “hot” destination to snap a few photos and be on their way. Arches National Park this Memorial Day weekend will be plenty busy, but right now, it is all ours. The trail to Landscape Arch is quiet. All around us, spring has delivered an abundance of flowers and greenery. During the late summer and early fall, it is easy to look past the dead brush, crunchy weeds, and all of the other stuff that looks as though it was alive at the time the rocks that make up the park were still sand.

Flowering plant life in Arches National Park in Utah

To be distracted in thinking that Landscape Arch is ‘the’ thing to see is easy, and if you want to view just what the big attraction is, you can Google that, but I want to share with you what the average visitor appears to be missing. Look down at the ground, feel the fine, still cool, red sand, put your nose close to the flowers, and try to find their fragrance. There is a world of ever-changing desert life that fills in the spaces under the soaring skyline. First, you have to come to your senses that what is between your car and your idea of a destination is just as integral a part of the journey as the collection of trophies.

Flowers blooming in Arches National Park in Utah

A tiny flower is observed. How long will it live? What is its purpose? Should I have brought a book about the local flora so I might be wiser tomorrow for learning today the breadth of variety that exists in a landscape, so many people might see as barren? All around me, giant red sandstone rock begs for attention; I gladly give mine to those things below the radar screen.

A chipmunk eating breakfast in Arches National Park in Utah

Before leaving Arches we visit the now-open visitor center so Caroline can pick up a Junior Ranger guide. She whittles away like a chipmunk, trying to finish the exercises to earn her badge, and in no time, she is being sworn in. With so many people swarming into the park, we decide to leave early. This is not the first or second time we have visited Arches, and we drive over to the more subdued Dead Horse Point State Park.

A yellow Colorado Chipmunk posing at Dead Horse Point State Park in Utah

The rim trail is our hike of choice. The overlook of the Colorado River is truly stunning, but so is this yellow Colorado chipmunk. I don’t know about you, but I had never seen a chipmunk with yellow markings before – now that’s epic. For a couple of hours, we amble along the cliffside, taking our time to commune with lizards, study various cactus flowers, take in the intoxicating scent of cliff rose blossoms, and generally stay in amazement at the colorful state of the otherwise monochromatic desert.

Twisted bark of a tree at Canyonlands National Park Islands in the Sky sector in Utah

And now, over to Canyonlands and the Islands in the Sky district. The focus of this hike could loosely be considered to be the Upheaval Dome, and we sure are thrilled to see this natural anomaly about which scientists still aren’t sure how it was formed, but we are also just as happy to see how some terrific trail builders cut us a path over this difficult terrain so we can find our way over a primitive land with relative ease.

Little purple flowers in bloom at Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The day will end with dinner in Moab at Eddie McStiff’s and another visit to the local grocery for some fresh fruit and snacks for the next day. The town of Moab is stuffed to the gills with visitors on Memorial Day – the busiest day of the year for this mountain biking mecca. A torch-red strip of flaming clouds cut a diagonal across the light clouds before the sunset. Tired from a busy day of looking at small details, we head to our room to digest the rich diet of a million things our eyes ate over the course of a beautiful day.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Arches National Park in Utah

Addendum: This post was missing all of these photos from what I’m calling an addendum. Why I only focused on the fauna and flora in close-up when I originally posted this is now beyond me. So here in the closing days of 2022, I’m rectifying these omissions to include images of where the photos above were taken. Obviously, our day started in Arches National Park.

Arches National Park in Utah

These thin fins, being all that remains of what was once solid rock surrounding them, just feel crazy that they’d still be standing while everything else simply eroded away.

Arches National Park in Utah

Delicate arch.

Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

After leaving Arches National Park, we headed over to Dead Horse Point State Park still near Moab, Utah.

Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

While Caroline works on her Junior Ranger booklet, I’m here with my new lizard friend, taking photos and hanging out.

Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

The view from Dead Horse Point of a gooseneck in the Colorado River.

Caroline Wise at Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

Earning her Dead Horse Point badge and a Red Rock Ranger patch is another pivotal moment in Caroline’s life.

Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The Green River Overlook in the Canyonlands National Park, Utah.

Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The Grand View Point in Canyonlands.