Number 19 of 17

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Oregon Coast November 2018

Here, at the last minute, we decided that we’d go north. The destination we are heading to is Oregon, the coast specifically; it will be our 19th visit during the past 17 years. Only seven of the previous journeys into the state were made outside of late fall and winter, with our inclination to spend time on the rocky coast during the quiet season. The photo of us above is from last year somewhere along the Oregon coast.

Three Arch Rocks March 2002

Trip 1: Back in March 2002, we made our first visit to the Oregon coast and were smitten within minutes of arrival. This is the view from Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge, seen from Oceanside Beach near Maxwell Point.

Cleetwood Trail Crater Lake July 2002

Trip 2: By July of the same year, we were once again underway on our way up through California on our way to Oregon. It was the long 4th of July, 2002, and we now knew that the drive that far north wasn’t all that difficult, so off we went. The trail took us past a remote corner of Death Valley, through a ghost town, and up to Crater Lake National Park before we turned around to race home to Phoenix, Arizona.

Mount Hood November 2002

Trip 3: Hey, it’s now November 2002, and we’ve just gotten started exploring Oregon with so much left to find. Here’s Caroline standing in an ice-cold mountain stream at the foot of Mount Hood. If you think freezing cold water phases my wife, you’d be sadly mistaken. We are now attempting to see all four corners of the state and the interior, so we have a better idea of exactly where we want to return to on future visits.

Harris Beach Yurt and Caroline Wise in Oregon November 2003

Trip 4: November 2003 and where better to go than back to Oregon. In the intervening time between visits, we’d learned that more than a few state parks along the coast have yurts as part of their accommodation offerings. Back then, they were incredibly cheap in our eyes and seemed romantic from afar. With this here, our first night staying in a yurt, we fell in love faster than it took to unlock the front door. We knew we were hooked. This photo of Caroline was taken at Harris Beach near Brookings, Oregon.

Horses near the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon

Trip 5: Barely six months had gone by before the call of Oregon summoned us back. Emboldened by the ease we were getting to places we thought were too far for 5 to 7 days, we took on this July 2004 summer drive back to Crater Lake. From there, we headed over the Columbia River and up to Washington to see Mount Rainier before driving out to Olympic National Park. Our return was via Oregon and California back to Phoenix, where the scorched desert awaited us. The photo was taken somewhere between John Day and the Columbia River in Oregon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Dutch Bros in Grants Pass, Oregon

Trip 6: This one was almost missed as we were only in Oregon for 2 hours after leaving the Redwoods down in California to head up to Grants Pass for a cup of Dutch Bros. coffee. It seemed like a great idea at the time. November 28, 2004.

Cape Meares Lighthouse in Oregon May 2005

Trip 7: May 2005, and it was time to share our affinity with the Pacific Northwest with my mother-in-law, Jutta. With Caroline and I now quite familiar with some “best of” places, we took her mom to Death Valley, the Redwoods National Park, up the coast of Oregon into Washington, and then over to Glacier National Park in Montana before dropping into Yellowstone for her second visit to that park and then down across Utah before stopping for her first-ever visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The photo is of the Cape Meares Lighthouse near Tillamook, Oregon.

Caroline Wise at Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint in Brookings, Oregon

Trip 8: Oh, it’s Thanksgiving, and there’s no better way to escape family obligations around the holidays than for us to be out on the road. November 2006 was the witness to this short 7-day excursion up through San Francisco with a quick jaunt into Oregon for a couple of days before heading down to Santa Cruz, California, to spend some time on that coast, too. The photo of Caroline was taken at the Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint near Brookings, Oregon.

Carl Washburne State Park in Oregon November 2007

Trip 9: This is becoming a trend where we pack things up for a road trip that somehow keeps ending up in Oregon in November because here we are in 2007, testing the question of, “Will it be boring this time?” The answer was a resounding “NO!” This photo was taken in the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, home of the most southerly temperate rain forest in the United States.

Rocks rising above the water in Siletz Bay, Oregon

Trip 10: You can pass Siletz Bay near Lincoln City, Oregon, one hundred times, and this view will always look different. I’m not sure we’ve stopped here that many times, but on this November 2008 trip along the coast, we were taken by the silhouettes etching out a perfect scene as our day was coming to a close. It was difficult choosing this photo of Siletz Bay when this was also the trip up the coast that had us stopping at the Devils Churn near Cape Perpetua for a sight that enchanted us for a solid hour or more. Click here to see an image from the Churn that is still one of my favorites.

Caroline Wise Kayaking in Garibaldi, Oregon September 2011

Trip 11: Oh my, it’s been three years since last we visited Oregon though we have great excuses why we couldn’t make it. In 2009, we visited Yellowstone National Park for the first time during winter. In May of that year, my mother-in-law Jutta spent two weeks with us in the Eastern United States. In 2010, we visited Yellowstone in January again, as the year before was so fascinating. Then, later in the year, we rafted the Colorado River through Grand Canyon National Park for nearly three weeks. Enjoying the idea of boating, we stretched out on our 10th trip to Oregon for some kayaking here in Garibaldi in September 2011.

Near Heceta Head Lighthouse in Oregon November 2011

Trip 12: A second visit in one year is kind of extraordinary, but we apparently have an addiction problem, and I don’t mean mushrooms. This trip saw us bringing a friend along as maybe they can corroborate our sense of amazement for Oregon or they can point out why our regard is too high, and we can back off this incessant need to visit the state every chance we get. The mushroom was photographed near Heceta Head Lighthouse in Florence, Oregon, in November 2011.

Oregon Coast November 2012

Trip 13: Rafting in Alaska this summer wasn’t enough for us, so here we are in November 2012 for our 12th visit to Oregon. With some research, information about the location of this photo could be found but I’m feeling kind of lazy about this time in trying to write this blog. You see, when I started this entry, I thought we’d made 14 visits, but then I discovered a few more trips about which, for one reason or other, I never blogged. With no photos posted here, I had just assumed my blog showed all of our visits; wrong.

South Coast of Oregon May 2013

Trip 14: Out with my daughter Jessica in May 2013 because we’d never seen the state of Oregon with her in our company; seemed like as good a reason as any.

Oregon Sunset November 2015

Trip 15: It’s that time of year again. Here we are in November 2015, and once again it’s Oregon on our minds. We missed last year due to me starting a new company to build a Virtual Reality world, only to end up neglecting ours. True, we did raft the Yampa River up in Colorado and Utah with friends, and we visited Los Angeles and San Francisco during 2014, but it was truly the slowest travel year we’d experienced in over a dozen years.

Depoe Bay, Oregon November 2016

Trip 16: November 2016, did you think there was any chance we’d miss the opportunity to visit Oregon at this time of year?

Caroline Wise at Rockaway Beach, Oregon April 2017

Trip 17: Are we bored yet? Do we look bored? One doesn’t ride the wild corn dog if things are not top-notch. April 2017 marks the first time ever we’ve been in Oregon during this month: wow! So now we’ve visited this amazing state in March, April, May, July, September, and November, leaving only six other months we’ll have to plan visits for. Where do you find this exhilarating ride? In Rockaway Beach.

Boiler Bay in Oregon November 2018

Trip 18: By now, you must have already guessed that this was shot in November 2018. If you guessed that date, you win a trip with us to Oregon on one of our next visits. You just have to pay your way and pass a compatibility test with us grizzled travelers, and maybe you’ll be out exploring such fantastic sights such as this one on a late afternoon at Boiler Bay near Depoe Bay, Oregon.

Leave The Nostalgia Behind

Nitzer Ebb ticket

Nostalgia is a malady of modernity as things recorded are able to be re-consumed over and over again ad nauseam. Yet, this appears to satisfy a wide swath of humanity who finds comfort in the familiar. To a new generation that lives in the immediacy of information at their fingertips, the novelty of the new is in constant flow and is ready to be tapped at their convenience. From this massive intellectual migration out of history to a form of homelessness as identified by not having a place people can return to, the deterritorialization of our species is evolving due to this separation of our social, cultural, and political practices. We are the epitome of the precariat, as we exist without predictability or security. Our collective identities are waking up to the bizarre reality that citizenship, culture, and customs are arbitrary fixations that serve the economy more than they serve the heart and soul of an individual.

It feels as if nostalgia draws me into the confinement of not getting out of my own past and so I need to practice letting go of those strings that hold me to that past. Recently, we were supposed to travel to Los Angeles, California, to see the band Nitzer Ebb, who we’d last seen perform back in 1991. Instead of incurring even more costs, we decided at the last minute to eat the price of the tickets and take a pass on digging into what was amazing to us some 30 years ago.

A couple of nights ago, it happened again after we arrived at a small venue in Phoenix where we were supposed to take in the Legendary Pink Dots. We walked in while the first act was performing but decided to head out to the patio instead. The second act was a solo artist who helped usher us back down the road before the headliner ever took the stage. The worst part of the night was watching the audience and getting confronted with scenesters and the ubiquitous black uniform that is de rigor for alternative culture. There is no novelty left in warmed-up memories that are better left fading in the background.

So, how about those old books I still own? Are they reminders of places I’ve been, or could I possibly ever read them again? We have DVDs gathering dust on shelves because, at one time, they were favorites that we felt changed our outlook or perception of aesthetics. Over the last twenty-odd years, I’ve not been able to bring myself to watch one of them; as a matter of fact, I recoil at the idea of listening to dialogs that never seem very far from my memories. As I’ve shared with many a person, Gilligan’s Island is never far from my mind’s eyes and ears and now I curse that show I watched so often back in the early 1970s.

I’m disconnected from my own generation, my parent’s generation, and, for the most part from the Millennials too. I’ve always abhorred conformity and ritual where growth is not the intended consequence of the endeavor. As a whole, we are boring people with isolated instances of genius, creativity, inspiration, and purpose. We function on the margin where our humanity is sacrificed for the benefit of the few, and then we gawk at the spectacle of those who crack under the immense pressure of divorcing greater purpose for the convenience of existence.

To paraphrase William S. Burroughs, changes can only be brought about by altering the original. Copies are part of a virus that repeats itself word for word, thought for thought. I desire to be more than a copy of who I was at 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. The original must be torn asunder and reassembled, taking elements and cutting them up with the alien, strange, and unfamiliar. We must crush our tendency to find the nostalgia in who we were just yesterday and embrace a strong evolution to find what is new in tomorrow.

The Need To Get Out

Coffee at Los Hermanos Mexican Restaurant in Superior, Arizona

This morning, I’m out on the road for a solo trip southeast, with my first stop happening in the old mining town of Superior, Arizona. Driving down Main Street I was surprised to see that, after years of threatening to reopen, the Historic Hotel Magma is once again in business. Caroline and I first learned of the town and the hotel from the Oliver Stone film titled U-Turn, featuring (among others) Joaquin Phoenix, which was our introduction to this actor. I stopped in at the Los Hermanos Mexican Restaurant for some coffee and to take these notes. From here, I’m going south through Ray, Kearny, and Winkleman before turning northeast to circle up through Christmas and then Globe, Miami, and Top-of-the-World, which will lead me into Superior once more today before going home.

Picketpost Mountain in Superior, Arizona

While the roads have been taken before, and this could be considered an indulgence of nostalgia, I have little choice if I want to wander into nature for a day trip. After 24 years in the Desert Southwest, Caroline and I have traversed almost every paved road and many a dirt road throughout this region. My goal is more to stop in cafes to have a cup of coffee and simply get away from my routine in Phoenix. Maybe along the way, I’ll find something to eat or, as I have my camera with me, a landscape might encourage me to capture an image I’ve not seen before.

I can’t remember visiting Ray before, but if I did, it is mostly or totally gone. Seems like a mountain’s worth of earth was moved from where it originally was to another location as the mine out this way is still active. I had to pull over nearly a dozen times in order to maintain the pace that allowed everyone else traveling the same road to pass me. The saguaros look over the road just as they have for decades, but I don’t recognize one of them. They stand there silently, never moving, not even swaying in the wind, just waiting and bearing witness to our coming and going. A dead javelina was proof of its failure to cross the road, and as not a chicken was seen, I can only surmise they, on the other hand, were successful in their attempts.

Here in Kearny, it’s nearly as quiet as the javelina was still. I’m on the main thoroughfare that is considered the business district, but that’s playing fast and loose with semantics. Taking a break, sitting next to the road in the shade at a rusty old picnic table, it’s striking how much I take my luxury for granted. I’m 101 miles from home, and if I lived here, I might as well have been at the opposite end of the universe. The economy of Kearny is obviously hanging on by a thread. There’s a tiny grocery store behind the gas station on my left; Cosmic Coffee is long shuttered. There’s a burger joint and pizza place that is still operating and hopefully will continue to do so, as there’s really nothing else left.

What there are are mountains all around me, and on those brown cliffs and peaks are cacti. At night, I’d imagine one might hear the occasional truck heading down the road or a coyote in the distance, but that would be about it. On moonless nights, the Milky Way must shine like the beacon it is to those who are so lucky to have dark skies.

There’s a surprising amount of foot traffic here near the grocery store. One group of people told me it was “Asian Day” at the deli counter, so they picked up lunch and were off for a picnic. A UPS truck passed by as a reminder that the global market is just a mouse click away, and while it might take an extra day to reach Kearny, Himalayan salt, expensive German cutlery, Adidas sweatpants, and a new Fitbit would reach me exactly as it would over in Phoenix.

Hayden, Arizona

Despair follows the road south. The economy along the way is fucked, and with the mines being the major employer, the strikers every so many miles suggest things are even worse than my vulgar description for those trying to hold on to the hope of having a job. We first passed through this part of Arizona 17 years ago, and the decay obviously runs away unabated as I follow a path I’ve traveled on more since that first occasion.

Giorsetti's Superior Grocery in Winkelman, Arizona

I’m getting lunch at Maria’s Mexican Restaurant, and even if I wanted something else, there are no other choices down here. I drove by Giorsetti’s General Store and was pleasantly surprised to see that it was still open. Not so lucky were the dead javelinas as I spotted two more adults and two juveniles, though none of them were close enough to one another to suggest they were related, well, besides their unfortunate circumstances. Also found dead on the road was a large bloated deer with an obviously broken neck, a not-so-smelly skunk, and some unidentifiable fur patches that were nearly fully merged with the pavement.

So here I am, full of carne asada with beans, at the end of Highway 177, about to head northeast on Highway 77, which will lead me past Christmas. Earlier, I wrote that I was passing through that town, but now I see that the half-dozen or so homes up the mountain that are in Christmas are, in fact, well up a dirt road I won’t be traveling on today. In my head, I’m flipping the coin of taking the road less traveled with a long drive home or returning the way I came, but know that I must take the quieter path.

Gila River at the Christmas Recreation Site in Winkelman, Arizona

My heart is on its way home, though my desire to remain in roaming mode is still wanting to rule the day. A stop along the Gila River and a pitstop in Globe were all that I was going to get in before pulling into North Scottsdale to pick up Caroline.

Nourishment

Mangalitsa pig ears and tails

I’d like to make Frankfurt Green Sauce (Grüne Soße), but I cannot find the following fresh herbs for sale in America: salad burnet, sorrel, chervil, cress, and borage. While fresh Wagyu beef can be purchased across Japan, you’ll have to order it frozen online here in the States. Back in 2011, Caroline and I enjoyed a small wheel of Cendré de Lune or Ashes of the Moon cheese (a variety of brie) in Canada, and while it was one of the most magnificent cheeses we’ve ever experienced, it’s not allowed to be sold in the U.S. Visit Hungary and indulge your palate on some Mangalitsa pork, then ask your local grocery store to get some for you. Need some goose fat? You’ll be ordering that from France or the United Kingdom because you won’t find it on these shores. Maybe your recipe calls for some Crème Fraîche or Quark? I hope you have a local German store else you’ll likely be purchasing online from a company like the Vermont Creamery, which is one of the very few companies I can find in America that makes these products.

I used to think that America was the place where everything was possible and readily available, where our future was as big as the country is wide. Now, I look at Groningen, Utrecht, and Amsterdam in the Netherlands and how they are re-engineering their cities to be more accommodating to bicycles while cars are pushed to the edges of town. In Germany, the first bicycle highway is under construction, with ten cities being connected via a 100-kilometer (62-mile) stretch of road far away from cars. It goes without saying that the rail systems in Europe, Japan, and even China all make our aging rail infrastructure look like we haven’t progressed in 50 years. Oh yeah, that’s because we haven’t.

We have some amazing food in America, but it’s largely relegated to a dozen major metropolitan areas where restaurants that are not franchises can still exist if you are willing to pay for quality. I suppose it’s the same for nature where our bigger cities have incredible parks, but we can’t afford much more than a few trees, a small playground, a dog run, and if you are lucky, some lights for an evening stroll.

Last month, I wanted to sample some fountain pens before purchasing a new one. One might think that in the fifth-largest city in America, I’d find one pen shop, nope. While in the Frankfurt airport earlier this year, I stopped in the Montblanc pen shop but realized I wasn’t in the mood to drop $700 to $1500 on a new fountain pen. In the relatively small town of Weimar, Germany, with a population of 65,542, I had two shops to choose from (I considered various pens and ultimately bought one).

Maybe this is the way it’s supposed to be as we crash into the cultural phenomenon of diminished attention spans, accelerated time, and competition with the infinity of digital media that demands everything is done fast. Franco “Bifo” Berardi is likely right in his postulation that we have forsaken our ability to allow our senses to elaborate on what it means to indulge in quality and meaning. Slowing down must surely be a sign of mental illness because who has the time to nourish their soul? The funny thing is, it is the wealthy who still hold fast to the essence of luxury, where to enjoy something means taking one’s time to savor the indulgence.

Caroline and I are well aware of our obsession with the speed of information and the rapidity that which knowledge can flow into our lives, and yet we are also very alert to the fact that our senses are only truly satisfied when we are lingering on a quiet beach on the Oregon coast, rafting through a deep canyon in Croatia, touching the inner silk lining of a bagworm cottage, or tasting something as uncommon as Szechuan duck tongue. Reading a book, exploring a modular Eurorack synthesizer, or spinning yarn with a drop spindle are also ways we slow down. In this sense, we are able to explore the luxury experienced by the fantastically wealthy who can afford to give their time over to their passions.

Photo: Mangalitsa pig ears and tails being used to make pork broth.

Reset to Normal

Braverman Family

That was quite the month when all of my attention turned to my health, and I do mean all of my attention. There was no room for anything else but a keen focus on losing weight, controlling my diet, and tight monitoring of my diabetes. I put a hold on reading, the synthesizer, writing, and socializing as all I could see was imperative to deal with things related to my body before I lost that opportunity. That was until today.

Our day started with a visit with our friends Itay and Rotem, who just moved back from California after a two-year visit to the frenetic chaos of Los Angeles. It was two years ago back in August 2017, when they first invited Caroline and me to share some shakshuka shortly after they were married and just days before they moved to L.A. A year after they drove out west, we visited them in their tiny apartment, where once again, we joined them for more shakshuka (click here for that blog entry and remember to scroll down to the photo). And now here we are once again in Arizona in the new place Itay, Rotem, and little Liam are calling home, welcoming us to what is now a tradition, a meal of shakshuka. In case you don’t know what this dish is, it is popular in the Middle East and is made of tomatoes, peppers, and poached eggs. In Italy, it is known as Uova in Purgatorio or “Eggs in Purgatory,” with the eggs representing souls and the tomato mixture they are poached in, looking like the fires of hell.

Green Chef Meal Kit

Today is also of note because I am at the 30-day mark from when I went all-in on my diet, and now I need to break out of that singular focus and bring normal back into my life. Of course, there will still be an emphasis on diet as Caroline and I try to continue looking closely at the calories we are eating at each meal. To that end, we are making an act of convenience with our recent subscription to Green Chef, which will begin this Monday.

Green Chef is a meal kit delivery service focusing on Keto, Paleo, Vegetarian, and Balanced Diets using organic ingredients. I learned to cook for a family of eight, and I’ve never really been able to adjust my perspective on how much I should cook for Caroline, so I tend to lean towards larger concoctions. Over the past month, we’ve both been tracking our calories and now realize we are good with meals that are under 500 calories, and Green Chef fits that requirement. By supplying us with kits that are measured to provide just the amount of ingredients required to make dinner for two, I’m hoping to become accustomed to handling food amounts that don’t produce a ton of leftovers.

In the month leading up to my derailment, I was on a tangent, buying a bunch of new books to fill in some gaps in my knowledge. I can now start returning to this reading list that includes A Thousand Plateaus: Capitalism and Schizophrenia by Gilles Deleuze and Felix Guattari, Capitalist Realism: Is There No Alternative? by Mark Fisher, Sex and the Failed Absolute by Žižek, Slavoj (shipping soon), After Finitude: An Essay on the Necessity of Contingency by Quentin Meillassoux, Ethics: An Essay on the Understanding of Evil by Alain Badiou but all of this was mentioned back in my blog entry about my antilibrary.

Bionic Lester MKIII from Industrial Music Electronics

On the synth side of things, I recently received the production version of Bionic Lester MKIII that I’ve been testing for Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics this summer. I’ve only made a cursory pass-over of the module that Scott modified at the last moment before going into production by adding a comb filter mode that was suggested at the 11th hour by a friend of his in Chicago while he was demoing it at Knobcon in early September. Read a great interview with Scott over at Perfect Circuit by clicking here.

Also coming up from Scott will be new test modules for Kermit that he describes as a modulation aid used primarily for LFO duties. In addition to that refresh, he’s promising an update to the Malgorithm module that acts as a bitcrusher. Ongoing work for Volkmire’s Inferno is progressing, with a promised new firmware for testing coming up soon. Scott recently demonstrated the finished Bionic Lester and a working prototype of Volkmire’s Inferno at Modular8 that you can watch by clicking here.

CV Tape Station from Xavier Gazon in Belgium

Months ago, I ordered a CV Tape Station from Xavier Gazon, but through a series of fortunate delays, I’m now receiving a greatly improved model that just cleared customs in New York after being stuck in Belgium with their customs office for nearly two weeks.

So while my reading list and need to play on the synthesizer are abundantly clear I’m at a loss of where my writing exercises will go. There’s a bit of a void in my head where ideas should be hanging out, but there doesn’t appear to be a thing in that space. Maybe a road trip is in order, as Caroline and I appear to be taking a pass on heading out over Thanksgiving this year. Without her and I traveling I might entertain the thought of heading north or northeast to somewhere like Bluff, Utah, or Cortez, Colorado.

Okay, the truth is I’d prefer Europe, but so would Caroline, so just hopping over for more of my life playing La Dolce Vita will have her confronting me with some Lucha Libre moves to wrestle that idea out of my head. One can dream.

The Fall

Fall Leaves in Phoenix, Arizona

Heading out this morning, I saw my first sign of fall with the leaves turning yellow and brown. It’s a bit confusing, therefore, that in the late afternoon, we can hear the buzz of cicadas, which is a sure sign that summer is still here. Yet the mornings are starting to cool and are in stark contrast to the daily highs that were in the 100s just a week or two ago. Up in Flagstaff, Arizona, they saw snow a week ago, and in Montana just yesterday, they had 4 feet of snow or 122 centimeters of the freezing stuff.

The summer is fading fast with the passing of the equinox as autumn starts to make itself known. Somehow, this is reflected in my headspace as I’ve been taking a pause from writing and playing with making music. I shouldn’t be too surprised by my creative desert as my modus operandi has typically been one of intense focus at the expense of all else. With my current diet and weight loss urgency, I’ve had all of my senses tuned to working on extending the summer of my life instead of giving into the fall.

Being consumed by novel tasks is one of the drugs that have always consumed me, but here, at this later stage of life, I see the imperative to work towards the habituation of healthy practices. Hopefully, the old maxim about being better late than never can still be realized by this man of oft bad habits. Trying to find a balance, I have to remember not to neglect my attempts at practicing the creativity I’m able to express, as losing that would be as dire as losing a limb.

Maybe it was the yellowing leaves on the sidewalk acting as a reminder of time passing that inspired me to jot down some thoughts today. Or maybe there’s a quiet urgency within me that’s afraid of allowing the creative embers to go cold. So, I force myself to write as a method of throwing kindling into the mind so the fire might roar back to life. Whatever it was, I cannot sit idly by as fall portends winter and that season is a forlorn space with a pallor that threatens to chill the sparks I need to stay warm.