Absolutely Unsatisfying

Entering Catlettsburg, Kentucky on Interstate 64

With last night’s decision to escape the approaching storm, my 32 days of crawling across a continent are coming to an end. It was time to forget about the meander and hit the gas to get a move on it. I left Sutton, West Virginia, after a spectacular breakfast of my homemade granola with an apple from Nova Scotia; I’m only pointing this out because it was my ray of sunshine on an otherwise rainy morning on Interstate 79 before merging onto Interstate 64 in Charleston, West Virginia. It’s been almost three hours down the ugly highway system as I pass over the Big Sandy River into Kentucky, taking this photo from the driver’s seat.

Interstate 64 Eastern Kentucky

Out here on the interstate, the world is dark and dreary, not only because of the miserable weather. Monotony veering into boredom, aggression and impatience from other drivers, and the almost total lack of anything to captivate the senses all lend the impression of squandering time for the sake of covering distance. I’ve grown to hate this form of transportation; it sucks the color and joy out of anything that might be considered experiential, aside from the experience of banality.

KY-9002 a.k.a., the Bluegrass Pkwy in Kentucky

Four hours into hauling ass across Kentucky, I needed a lunch break, but not for Cracker Barrel, Bob Evans, Gino’s Pizza, Biscuit World, or McDonald’s, which were all well advertised on the freeway along with countless law firms, hotel chains, gas brands, health care options, or the many dedications to politicians, wars, or fallen police and soldiers. Figuring I might find some home cooking, as it’s often known (I grew up calling it Soul Food), I left the interstate in Lexington and found a little joint called Mimi’s Southern Style Cooking, but since when is a buffet about quality? Coming into the city and leaving it, it doesn’t matter if I’m in Modesto, California; Tucson, Arizona; Austin, Texas; Portland, Maine; or Lexington, Kentucky; we are a people needing vapes, Bud Light, scratchers, tattoos, drive-thrus, and the convenience demanded from people racing to find something elusive and always out of reach.

KY-9002 a.k.a., the Bluegrass Pkwy in Kentucky

Speeding across Kentucky was abysmal. I felt I betrayed myself by seeing absolutely nothing of the state. I’ve capitulated to the hegemonistic cultural hammer of suffering in the consumer space where I am in Everywhere, America, as defined by commerce and consumption. There is no escape from the machine out here on the interstate. Detouring out of the south to escape the rain, I’ve traded my sense of exploration and discovery for a different kind of reign that is forever relentless. Even phone service along the freeway is impeccable, unlike the majority of our days on vacation when the signal faded in and out. Having proper phone service means I’m always connected, be it for streaming music or podcasts. The ads can arrive without fail with the leash holding fast.

KY-9002 a.k.a., the Bluegrass Pkwy in Kentucky

There’s no spontaneity found at 75 mph, just the routine of watching vehicles in front, behind, and in the opposite direction; so I always know where everyone is. For a time, I thought I was out of the rain, and fortunately for me, the road was about to start a big curve to the left, letting me skirt that monster downpour in front of me.

Interstate 69 over the Tennessee River in Gilbertsville, Kentucky

While disliking my choice of leaving the two-lane byways, I also feel it was the right decision as driving in the rain was tiresome, making progress was becoming slower, and now that I know I’m speeding back toward Caroline, the excitement grows that I’ll be seeing her soon.

Tennessee State Line on U.S. Highway 51 in South Fulton, Tennessee

After a full day of driving over 500 miles (847km) to the Tennessee border, I was exhausted. I decided to go farther after finding a steak house called Abe’s Rib-eye Barn an hour ahead in Dyersburg, Tennessee. I was also seeing inexpensive hotels in the area while entertaining the idea that I was far enough away from the front of the hurricane at this point. I can’t tell how intuition worked in my favor on this day, but I skipped grabbing a hotel before dinner, which I’d typically do to put our valuables in the room. Instead, I continued to Abe’s. Chatting with my server there about our vacation and today’s change of plans, she told me that the first taste of the hurricane was coming up the Mississippi, arriving around midnight. I checked the forecast, and the area was supposed to see between two and three inches of rain tomorrow.

Bridge over the Mississippi River from Finley, Tennessee

As quickly as I could, I wolfed down my steak, realizing how fortunate it was that I didn’t have a hotel yet which allowed me to start searching for one farther west of me. I found availability two states over, hoping to get out on a more distant edge of the bad weather. Tensions in my gut were running high, or did I eat too much steak?

Over the Mississippi River entering Missouri

When racing along interstates with no time for real sightseeing, this is what the Mississippi River looks like to the driver.

Welcome sign to Missouri on U.S. Highway 155

After my early start today in West Virginia, I headed to Kentucky, Tennessee, and now Missouri, then continued until Paragould, Arkansas, a good distance from the Mississippi River.

Sunset in Arbyrd, Missouri approaching the Arkansas State Line on U.S. Highway 412

Color was again allowed to return to the world after I rejoined a two-lane highway traveling through farmland. I could comfortably stop for sunset near Arbyrd, Missouri, just a few miles from Arkansas and a dozen from my motel.

North Carolina to Tennessee

Biscuit Head in Asheville, North Carolina

We were told that Biscuit Head for breakfast was popular but not 20-minute-line popular. Was the wait worth it? Of course, it was. After we ate, it was time to get on the road for a bit of driving.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Tennessee state line with North Carolina

This is where things get sketchy in our photographic history because it appears I only shot three photos all day. I had my DSLR with me, and on other days, you can see the black strap on my shoulder, but searching high and low we do not find any other photos of this trip. While I may have opted for the convenience of my smartphone to snap the majority of the photos, it just doesn’t seem possible that on such a beautiful day that took us from North Carolina over to Tennessee into Gatlinburg and back into the Smoky Mountains that I wouldn’t have any other images from the day. So it goes, at least I have this one of us in front of the state which I should point out that the “e” on Cocke County is silent.

The Admiral restaurant in Asheville, North Carolina

A break from the rush into BBQ with a luxurious dinner at a place called The Admiral. On the left are frog legs, and on the right are sweetbreads (pancreas chunks). Whatever we had for our main course is lost in time, like the details of our daylight hours wandering around a National Park and another state. One thing I’m certain of is that we surely had a great day.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 10

This is not getting any easier. The deal is that for the past couple of days, these blog entries are not coming from notes such as the extensive highly detailed notes that accompanied the first week of our road trip. Instead, I’m trying to pull details from a journey we made 15 years ago. At times Caroline lends a hand as her superior memory, while not infallible, is often carrying details I had long forgotten. What I can tell you about this photo is that the horse and pasture yummies are all from Tennessee, and the reason I know that is from the time stamp on the photos and that the next photo shows us crossing into another state.

Welcome to Mississippi, where we are just dipping our toe into the state to gain bragging rights to having visited the north and south of the state. Our visit was pretty brief because we had to head back up to Tennessee and into Memphis specifically.

Not knowing if we’d ever visit Memphis again, we had to take this opportunity to visit Graceland, home of Elvis Presley and his final resting place.

For my mother-in-law, this isn’t exactly her idea of a great place to visit as she never developed a fondness for kitsch, nor was she a big fan of Elvis. As for me, this is an interesting look into a kind of prison that had likely become a madhouse. While others will feel a kind of closeness to the King by being among his possessions, all I can see is a place designed with the hope of being able to escape fame. During better times, this may have been a partying refuge where Elvis could entertain and share with friends and family, but then there’s the madness, isolation, and depression that came with his drug abuse and not being able to lead a normal life due to his bizarre fame.

I’d like to imagine that Sister Rosetta Tharpe once dined here with Elvis as he said thank you for teaching him what rock ‘n’ roll was going to be. While Elvis won accolades, fame, and fortune, she will live on in rock history as the pioneer who defined the sound of the electric guitar as an essential part of a music genre that has endured for the better part of 50 years.

Funny that I’ve enjoyed walking in the Acropolis in Athens, Greece, along with my share of castles, palaces, historic homes, and not-so-famous dwellings, but the feeling here is of a kind of anguish I felt at Dachau concentration camp in Germany. I don’t mean to imply that some kind of atrocities occurred here or that Graceland and Dachau should necessarily be compared; it’s just the sense of foreboding heaviness that has me ill at ease walking through this man’s home. Was it ever his intention to allow his refuge to be a museum where even his privacy is sold to those who want just a little more of him?

Once I took the thread of finding despair here at Graceland, the self-guided tour became too oppressive. This wasn’t helped by the fact that everyone was moving around in silence as visitors were given headsets to listen to a narrative about Elvis’s life here. The feeling of isolation was probably appropriate, considering that the majority of Elvis’s time here would have to have been alone. Taking off the headset, I was still feeling awkward, except now creepiness walked with me as the zombies in the house shuffled silently about, robbing the place of chatter and laughter.

The King’s wealth let him buy a lot of things, including a kind of immortality, as he entered the history books, but he couldn’t buy happiness. I was 14 when he died a hero to many who had worshipped a man they had had fond recollections of from the late ’50s to the mid-’60s. To me, he was cool in a “black and white era” kind of way but was a tired, bloated buffoon as I was busy worshipping the throne of Johnny Rotten and the Sex Pistols. All these years later, I can’t help but feel sorry for Elvis and the majority of others who have found fame in America, the double-edged sword where money carves away privacy, leading to megalomania or deep depression.

Hot Springs National Park in Arkansas is our next stop. Water, water, everywhere, nor any drop to bath in. While Bathhouse Row is historically awesome and architecturally beautiful, the baths are long closed as the age of therapeutic mineral baths gave way to shock therapy. Just kidding about one replacing the other, but the fact remains that public baths have fallen out of favor, so we won’t be doing any restorative swimming this fine day.

It’s pretty here in Arkansas. I don’t know what I expected, but this is beating those expectations. Okay, I know what was on my mind, more of Deliverance and squealing pigs. It’s sad this impression of the Southern United States as being one of backward, intellectually handicapped people that have been stereotyped ad infinitum during my lifetime. The idea that a bunch of “Gomer’s” lives down here is not my creation or sole interpretation; it is an image played across America millions of times a year. Why is this? Because the majority is hostile to anything less than total conformity, and those who control cultural hegemony are quick to label those that they find to be different. To be different is to be hated, and that’s just the way it is.

Good thing trees are harmonious and carefree without time to hate on others or choose to avoid certain neighborhoods due to prejudice. Instead, they grace our landscape, shade us, help produce oxygen, house us, warm us, and only on rare occasions try to kill us. For the most part, they offer us a beautiful backdrop and a place to carve our names to demonstrate that we will forever love someone.

Flowers, on the other hand, offer no permanence to carve a message upon, though they, too, indulge us by provoking our thoughts of love and romance.

A garden gnome riding a snail? Whoa, this is the most perfect thing we will EVER buy in Arkansas and it is coming home with us. I know what you are probably thinking, “Hey, is that symbolic of you riding the snail, John?” I’ll just offer you a sly grin for my answer.

Horses in lush pastures are nothing but love and are effectively the sunset and bookend for this day in Mississippi, Tennessee, and Arkansas (pronounced Arkansaw).

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 9

Maybe there should have been a sense of disappointment that we woke to overcast skies, but here in the land of hollows (pronounced holler in the local Appalachian dialect), it feels fitting that a kind of foggy mystery is hugging Earth.

We needed to stop at the Looking Glass Falls on Route 276 on our way to the Blue Ridge Parkway. The upcoming road is one of America’s most iconic thoroughfares. After having driven the Natchez Trace Parkway a few years ago, it was our dream to visit this other major historic road that glides through the countryside, offering visitors a view of this small part of the United States untouched by man and machine or parking lots and commerce. We’ll only see a tiny section of the 469-mile parkway that travels from near the middle of Virginia almost to South Carolina, but even a brief firsthand glimpse of the incredible beauty is better than nothing at all.

The road ahead cannot be known as it is shrouded in fog and beyond the horizon; if there is one, it remains unknown and incomprehensible. Maybe this sounds ham-handed and as if I’m using heavy poetic license to make something more of what should be obvious, but this is my adventure, and without embellishment, romantic notions might be lost on cold logic. Who needs objective truths when we are talking about flights of fancy, where the imagination is filling the void that lies around the corner?

Dewdrops on flowers, now here’s a great setting to help fill in the gaps. Ornamental decorations can add color to the tales being woven out of what some may call ordinary travels, though there is nothing ordinary about stepping into our world. The television, on the other hand, is a poor surrogate for having “taken” someone to an exotic location, as the viewer cannot know the hushed tones and delicate soundtrack of a forest with a stream in the distance or the stillness of a viola just before a drop of water falls from its petal.

In the mid-1980’s while also in the middle of my existential angst period, I was busy consuming every word of Friedrich Nietzsche, and on the cover of the Penguin edition of Ecce Homo (Behold The Man), I saw the scene above. Now here it is 17 years later, and existential crisis is a distant problem that gave way to an anti-foundationalist Romanticism (idealism for those who’d appreciate not having to look that up), and I’d rather just soak up the beauty than consider the hopeless masses of humanity who will never be able to appreciate these moments where aesthetics, scientific phenomenon, history, nature, and poetry meet at the mountain top of our intellects to produce emotional sacrifices on the altar of life. The photo was taken at the Wolf Mountain Overlook.

Caspar David Friedrich

This scene titled Wanderer Above The Sea of Fog by Caspar David Friedrich from about 1818 was the cover that graced Ecce Homo. Courtesy Wikipedia.

The arteries of life crisscross this landscape and all I can see are trees and streams. My eyes are blind to the microbial world, and even with what I can see, such as the mosses and leaves, I cannot identify precisely what they are. Why is this information about our natural world seemingly so unimportant to us humans? It’s not enough that the scene is beautiful; we owe it to our short lives to understand and know the earth we live upon and within.

Being this close to another National Park, there was no way Caroline and I wouldn’t take the time to peek in.

I suppose that trying to brag that we’ve been on the Appalachian Trail would be nothing less than disingenuous, even though we are standing on that very famous trail. The fact of the matter is that we are right next to a parking lot where the A.T. crosses the road, and so we’ve “hiked” about 100 feet of the 2,180 miles of the trail. For the math nerds out there, we’ve covered about 0.000008% of the A.T. and only have 99.999992% more of the trail to hike.

Uncertainty is never fun, and so while I think these are maitake or hen-of-the-woods mushrooms I wouldn’t bet money on it or cook some up and gobble them down to find out.

Ah, yes, that is blue sky beyond the trees.

Wow, a hornet up close and personal. I’ve been told that these flying demons are aggressive beasts, but being only inches away from it, I’ll bet I was more nervous than it was. While it may pack a wallop of a sting, it also packs a wallop of evolutionary efficiency in its design as it looks to be a perfect form considering its life among the rest of us living things.

While the hornet is free from rent, obligation to pay taxes, or barter its time for food, we humans, on the other hand, are often bound to conformity. This march to social conditioning often starts here in the church, and while some may argue that it is a foundation of our ethics, I believe we are naturally moral beings and that the church does much harm to propagate complacency in ignorance by reinforcing our laziness to challenge authority. Someday, I believe all churches will be relics of another age, just as caves and pyramids are reflections of an earlier primitive self.

Philosophy, art, ethics, nature, history, conflict, and harmony do, in fact, travel with me on vacation as I’m not able to escape myself. The composite of who I am is what helps form how I see the landscape and subsequently try to capture these images that will hopefully bring me back to a moment of inspiration. From this scene, I want to imagine being an observer here about 600 years ago, before the Native American population first encountered Europeans. What was it like to walk free, find, capture, or harvest food, explore without permission the surroundings, or layabout in the valley and watch skies above travel overhead to places unknown?

It’s beautiful here in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, but like so many other first-time encounters with our national parks, this one was too brief.

Seeing the Watts Bar Nuclear Plant on our way eastward was a conflicting sight as I’m at once fascinated by the technology and convenience while simultaneously uncertain about the waste issue. Of course, coal is not a viable answer either, nor the dam that has backed up these waters to destroy a healthy river system. Seems to me that only leaves, wind, and solar, which come to think about it, are two of the elements that, in their natural state, contribute to these trips being extraordinary.

The trees are on their way to full summer bloom here in mid-spring. I’d like to return in two months to see the trees with their leaves filled out and the little house and yard covered in shade. It’s pretty out here in Tennessee where nature doesn’t portray a poor education or hostility towards others, just an indifference to being here regardless if I am or not.

Seems that even many locals disdain boiled peanuts but Caroline and I sure enjoy them. They taste a bit like lentils. Being on vacation, we weren’t in much need of anything being notarized, so we weren’t able to take advantage of that while picking up another road snack. By the way, you won’t find boiled peanuts west of the Mississippi or much further north than Virginia.

Like boiled peanuts, this isn’t something we see every day: gourds. While popular as containers, musical instruments, birdhouses, and other crafty things, I can’t imagine why anybody driving by would be inclined to impulse buy gourds. Maybe this is the regional distribution point of dried gourds, and my ignorance of the area doesn’t let me know the important role they play in Tennessee culture.

Why a pig? Because this company called Piggly Wiggly changed the world of grocery shopping back in 1916. Prior to this chain of stores that got its start in Memphis, Tennessee, people would give a clerk a list of what they wanted and that person would fill their order. What changed was that Piggly Wiggly’s founder gave customers open shelves and a cart to collect their groceries themselves, and with that, the modern grocery store was born. You can learn a lot about America just by driving across its breadth.

America – Day 16

Northern terminus of the Natchez Trace Parkway near Nashville, Tennessee

At the 6,083-mile mark of our journey, we enter the Natchez Trace Parkway, and for the next 444 miles, we’ll almost wish that this scenic road was not open for cars but just bicycles, as this would be one of the most perfect roads for an extended bike ride, except for the rain. Immediately after passing the entry sign, we encounter a bunch of wild turkeys and a deer. We are excited.

Drying tobacco along the Natchez Trace Parkway

This is the first time Caroline and I have seen drying tobacco. If either of us still smoked, I think we might have considered pilfering a small leaf and taking it home to fire it up. Hmmm, had we known about smoked drinks at the time, we should have taken some of this tobacco to add a little flavor from the Natchez Trace to a drink.

Alabama Tennessee state line on the Natchez Trace Parkway

No selfie here in this rain, plus we would have blocked your ability to read the sign. Way more important to read the sign than see our faces, which, of course, will come up soon enough because a day without John and Caroline’s faces is like a day without sunshine, which we don’t have right now.

One of the many creeks along the Natchez Trace Parkway

The Natchez Trace Parkway runs a bit more than 30 miles across the northwest tip of Alabama, crossing the Tennessee River. The above creek is not the Tennessee River but a creek I cannot identify, though I’m sure it’s in Alabama and not Tennessee.

Mississippi state sign on the Natchez Trace Parkway

Only four hours on the trace, and we are already 127 miles done with this stretch of our trip. Behind the Entering Mississippi state sign is a Native American burial mound!

Plant life on the Natchez Trace Parkway

In keeping with my thought that I must share more than the big picture and great landscapes, I present you with this close-up of plants growing on a tree.

Spider webs

Caroline took this photo of spider webs; well, that’s what she says it is. Looks like melted plastic and water drops to me. I’m seriously curious about the fluorescent green dots on the back of the leaf in the top left corner. Are they radioactive?

On the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

There are no businesses along the Trace, no gas stations, motels, or food stands. Signage is kept to a minimum, and no commercial signage is allowed. Places to get on and off the trace are also relatively rare. Near Tupelo, we left the trace to find lunch and thought we should fill the tank. Someone back at the last visitor center on the trace tells us about a place in Saltillo, Mississippi, that, in our opinion, was seriously lacking, but it was only $10 a meal. Got $10.10 worth of gas, which ended up being 6 gallons on the nose. In a minute, we were back on the trace. Guess we’ll have to visit the Elvis Presley Birthplace & Museum in Tupelo on another trip across America.

Creek along the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

The rain comes and goes, as do the creeks scattered along the route.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

While the road that is the Natchez Trace Parkway pretty much follows the historic trade route, there are still sections of the original foot trail that dot in and out along our drive. This section of the footpath looked to be the perfect place to grab a selfie. Jeez, I have to admit that my wife is really cute with short hair. Please, nobody tell her that I let you know.

Thorns, vines, and rain along the Natchez Trace Parkway

The further you go and the deeper you look, the more you find worth remembering about your time out on the Natchez Trace Parkway. Maybe even a bicycle would be too fast to travel this road; a good long walk might be the more appropriate mode of travel. Heck, that’s exactly how traders used this path in its early history.

Spider walking the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

Speaking of walking. We ran into this arachnid that was taking its time to explore the trace as leisurely as anyone else might dream of.

Colors of fall leaves on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

The colors of fall warm the heart of desert dwellers, especially when they are made up of rare leaves unseen in Arizona, though we do have our fair share of cactus needles.

Creek along the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

By this time, if anyone didn’t know it, you should be able to tell that not only do we love ocean shores and big rivers, but love these tiny creeks too.

French Camp on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

French Camp Visitor Center is one of the few structures right on the Trace. This cabin was built back in 1840. We spot a few more deer in the area, and fog shrouds the trees across the way. In less than an hour, we’ll leave the trace for the night.

Dusk on a rainy early evening on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi

It’s almost dark by the time we leave the trace and head to Kosciusko, Mississippi, to find a room. We have some pretty low standards, but the places we find in this corner of Mississippi are horrible. So we continue down the road to Carthage and check into the Carthage Inn. Food choices in Carthage are meh….doesn’t seem this part of Mississippi is much of a tourist destination.