Nehalem Spit

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Early Monday morning, we left our yurt at Nehalem State Park in Oregon for a walk south on the Nehalem Spit.

While I can’t hear it at this time, I just know that these crashing waves were offering their part of the symphony we listen to while strolling the ocean at the water’s edge.

Tree stumps are an invasive species here at the edge of the ocean. Without eradication, they’ll quickly populate the beach and grow a forest, so remember to always report to the local authorities when you spot these intruders.

Emerging from the depths, this jellyfish was plotting the takeover of the human race that is poisoning its beautiful sea.

No, seriously, how cold are you?

Surfer riding a wave into the outlet of the Nehalem River near Brighton, Oregon

Our five-mile trek took us to the mouth of the Nehalem River to find this surfer riding the waves where the river meets the ocean. In the relatively narrow channel, the lone surfer waited patiently, and on a few occasions, while we acted as his unseen audience, he would catch a wave that would propel him far up the channel for a ride that seemed to last a couple of minutes.

As stoked as he must have been, so were we at the solitude and beauty of the ocean-side walk. We spent nearly half of our day here.

Another key part of the orchestra and amazing visuals on offer when tuned to channel Oregon Coast in the Fall.

What was the average direction the wind blew overnight? That way, to the right.

If movie theaters in Arizona offered us high-definition live streams of coastal scenes from the more beautiful locations on earth, we’d grab some popcorn and purchase tickets for a double-feature at least once a week.

Leaving a beach is always difficult for Caroline and often requires her to stop a moment for one last look back at what we are leaving behind.

After some serious time spent walking along the coast today, it was time for a good long drive. We’re passing through Rockaway Beach just doing some sightseeing.

We made it as far as Siletz Bay near Lincoln City, Oregon, before turning around as our lodging is back up north.

Blue Heron Cheese Company in Tillamook is always great for a bite to eat, not just for us either.

On Bayocean Road next to Tillamook Bay, we are taking the scenic route to this evening’s lodging.

That spit of land in the middle of the photo is the site of the town of Bayocean, which is long gone. A hotel, bowling alley, and even a 1,000-seat movie theater were out there. By 1960, the last house was destroyed by a storm, and by 1971, the last remnant of a building was scrubbed from the place that was once home to 2,000 inhabitants.

There’s a lighthouse right out here, but for some reason or other, I apparently forgot to take a photo of it, or we didn’t take the walk.

This is part of the trail to the lighthouse, so why there were no photos just doesn’t make any sense.

The view over Short Beach, south of the Cape Meares Lighthouse, that if you squint hard you might see the tiny speck on the furthest outcropping way out there.

It was only a couple of miles between Short Beach and Oceanside, but we moved at what must have been a nearly imperceptible speed.

Look closely, and you’ll notice the clouds below the sun are the same clouds from the photo above. I’m pointing this out as people frequently comment on how beautiful our photos are, and this, I think, exemplifies the importance of changing your perspective and taking more photos than you can ever use, so you have some favorites to choose from.

Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge in Oceanside, Oregon, means we are returning to the north so we can check in at the state park before the sun fully disappears for the night.

Hawk-eye John spotted this barred owl perched on a branch in the shadowy forest just over the road. I was certain that as I reversed and pulled over for a better look, he’d fly off, but there he was, seemingly staring as intently at us as we were at him.

Cape Lookout State Park south of Tillamook is the place we’ll be taking up a yurt for another night or two as with this kind of sunset and surroundings, who wouldn’t want to linger just a bit longer?

Fort Stevens to Nehalem, Oregon

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Sunrise at Fort Stevens State Park on the coast of Oregon is exactly what one would be expected to take advantage of after waking in a yurt that is within walking distance of the shore.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

We were on a short walk before meeting up with the friends we had dinner with last night.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

The wreck of the Peter Iredale that’s been out here rusting away for the past 102 years.

Kirk Millhollin and John Wise at Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

Here’s Captain Kirk hamming it up for the camera. thought he’d be cute, but unfortunately for me, I snapped the photo a moment too soon. Just as he approached to give the appearance he was going to lay one on me, I turned my head and gave him a full-on-mouth kiss – with tongue. Yeah, who’s laughing now, Mr. Millhollin?

Update in April 2021: Sadly, Kirk and I had a total fallout back in the middle of 2017 due to circumstances that were complicated due to my wishful thinking and (in large part) my inability to simply deal with funding issues with the company I was running at the time and that Kirk moved to Arizona to be a part of. I don’t believe there can ever be a resolution beyond where we are today, which is totally 100% non-contact. After knowing the guy for 22 years, I often wonder how he’s doing regardless of the circumstances around our parting.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

Kirk had wanted to take us out to a small area spit of land on the Jetty Trail near Point Adams, where at other times of the year, he’d found an abundance of mushrooms, the special kind of magic ones that authorities frown upon harvesting.

This amanita muscaria or fly agaric is not one of the ones I was referring to although some claim that they too have mystical properties.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

Kirk, Rachel, and the kids needed to head back early to Portland, so Caroline and I returned to our yurt to get a bite to eat and pack up our stuff. Though we weren’t going far.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

We are still at Fort Stevens, except instead of the Pacific Ocean side, we are over on the Columbia River. The ruin is part of an old series of military batteries built over one hundred years ago to defend the Columbia River’s mouth.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

The rusty and crumbling fortified hulks are just the aesthetic I’m in love with.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

It turns out that there’s a guided tour that takes visitors into the underground structures; sadly, we didn’t get to participate in that as we weren’t aware of those tours at the time we were visiting.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

Some people go for jewelry and nice clothes; I go for textures and patterns found out and about.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

Near Swash Lake and Jetty Lagoon, just wandering around.

Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton, Oregon

While I believe we are somewhere out on the Clatsop Spit and that we are looking at the Columbia River, I could easily be wrong, but we are in the general vicinity of that area.

Astoria, Oregon

A late lunch in Astoria across from the Pilot House Luxury Suite that we’ll never want to afford, though secretly we’d love to.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Cannon Beach, Oregon

What happened to the time between lunch and this late afternoon is lost in memories that cannot be found, but that’s of no real matter because here we are, smiling and happy at Cannon Beach, Oregon.

[I have some faint memories that our friends didn’t actually leave but hung out with us a bit more. We definitely ended up buying a big bag of saltwater taffy in Seaside – Caroline]

Sunset at Cannon Beach, Oregon

Add to the other thousands of memories we have of sunsets along the coast, or is it millions by now?

John Wise at Cannon Beach, Oregon

Yep, it’s so cold out here at the end of the day that even I needed a beanie to keep my ears warm. Did I tell you that Caroline spun and knit this work of love for me?

Sunset at Cannon Beach, Oregon

The iconic Haystack of Cannon Beach at sunset, what could be better than a walk here, even on a chilly late fall day?

We’ll be sleeping in a yurt again this evening down south of Manzanita, Oregon, at Nehalem Bay State Park.

Tranquility

Sunset over Lake Michigan

Although back home now, I cannot leave the images of autumn behind me. From the falling golden leaves to the golden sunsets, I bask in the beauty nature throws upon my eyes. In two short days, I will return for a fortnight to Santa Barbara to continue helping my uncle in his recovery from having broken his hip. Prior to the Presidential election, I will return to Phoenix to vote and then back to California until my uncle has been cleared to once again drive and bear his full weight upon his hip. But for now, I want to have as clear a mind as this late afternoon sky possessed; I want to rest in the same calm, warm light before once again entering the emotional maelstrom that envelops a frustrated and depressed elderly uncle. Today’s photo was taken a few days prior on Lake Michigan.

Traditions

Can you see the dichotomy between tradition and punk rock? Can you sense the metal nature of where we have landed? This is one of the hearts of Amish country, and I can feel the rebellion against conformity in much the same way I did when thrashing on the dance floor of a punk gig where, while slamming, we were tossing off the chains of expectation. Yeah, that’s what’s going on here; it’s in the air. When everyone else is cut from the same fabric of banality, those who are different become the leading edge of revolution.

When I was younger, I thought history was for a boring class of traditionalists stuck in a past in which stagnation was the signature of their intellectual malignancy, tilting into obedient stupidity. It turns out that moving with the times in America means following a pop culture where dictatorial programming pushes the chattel of humanity into consumption at the expense of self-discovery. Negating the toxic move away from traditional things like love, independence, and community, there are still pockets of Americans who understand the value of a lifestyle that doesn’t have to be a reflexive exercise in blind capitalism. So, does this place of tranquility and tradition now represent an ethos that better aligns with my lingering teenage idea of escaping society’s grotesque stupidity? Possibly.

Who knew that mid-70s angry John would slide into flower-loving, leaf-peeping, soft, and fuzzy John who finds greater value in nature and people who maintain traditions against the machine of disposable intelligence?

Elkhart, Indiana, and its surrounding communities are home to many an Amish family. Traditions are alive and well amongst these rural farmers and woodworkers who appear to have little in common with their modern neighbors. The Amish have no automobiles, do not use electricity in their homes, and apparently have no need for cell phones. What they do have is an independence few Americans can understand. Amish grow their own food on land they own, clear of a mortgage that has been plowed by hand with the help of what animals they own. They sell food and handmade furniture in nearby communities, which gives them the cash to purchase particular basics and the fabrics used to make their own clothes if they don’t weave them themselves.

There are no electricity, cable, gas, or credit card bills cluttering their mailboxes. Their vehicles are simple but distinctive black wooden affairs drawn by horses, or they ride a bicycle. Life for the Amish is much the way life has been during the previous centuries since America’s inception, except for the tourists driving through in their cars, gawking, and taking photos as though the Amish were a curiosity in the zoo. Throughout this burgeoning cultural hegemon trying to engulf them, they’ve never capitulated, and to me, that’s a toughness of resolve I can admire.

Now, back up, John, this isn’t a trip of socio-political observations; you are here to admire the beauty of the countryside, so get back to that. Quilts and family-style binge dining must be part of this day, and dropping in on an Amish gift shop would have been a wish by the wife; food will be my wish.

I should point out that I’m fully incompatible with the lifestyle experienced here and at other Amish locations across this area of America as I do not possess the requisite religious beliefs that would allow my integration within this community, but that doesn’t mean I can’t respect the efforts it must take to buttress the encroachment of modernity. Idealistically, I look upon this scene and wish to find my way in, but the die that’s been cast, which paints me as a cynical hedonist, is far too long-established to break out of my trajectory.

I suppose this husband and wife then are quite similar to me and my wife: we go about our routine that’s been normalized for our circumstances. They may be in a good or a bad relationship, just like any other number of couples, but I don’t think that a situation that requires them to dress to community conformity and saddle up their horses is really any different than us meeting the clothing expectations of a corporate entity and our stopping at the gas station to fuel up to ensure we arrive at work on time.

One might argue that these religious communities are indoctrinating each successive generation, but then I’d ask, how is this different than my upbringing in Los Angeles watching the Munsters, eating Lucky Charms because the ad was exciting, and wanting to be the next Joe Namath because others around me were elevating this American football hero onto a pedestal? When it comes right down to it, does anyone in our society live outside the norm of their narrow socio-economic order? We can ask ourselves, does this man love his son and want what’s best for him, or has he relegated that role to electronic devices that influence his child more than a paternal relationship ever will?

The Amish don’t require state-sanctioned approval to operate these buggies. There are no federal mandates regarding safety features, fuel economy, or even how old you have to be to operate one. Children as young as eight years old are allowed to drive a buggy, which sure does offer them an interesting level of autonomy to visit friends on adjacent farms or run an errand. I don’t mean to imply that somehow life is ideal out here or that the Amish have found a kind of super-enlightenment; I think I’m trying to reconcile my own bias as to what it means to be free.

Even the horses of the Amish are nice and polite compared to many of the skittish horses we encounter in other corners of the states. Has anyone ever noticed that there don’t seem to be any dogs on Amish farms?

I wish that this had been my go-kart when I was a kid.

I really don’t have anything to add to this photo other than I liked it enough to want to include it.

Amish father and son riding a plow being dragged by work horses in the Elkhart area of northern Indiana

I thought we’d be ignored while we were touristing our way through these Amish lands as I was certain that farmers and inhabitants were stared at all the time, but time and again, people were staring back, likely curious why anyone else would want to point their cameras at people who were just going about their lives.

I’ve tried figuring out if these are Amish or Mennonite girls but have come up blank unless gangland dress in the Elkhart area has taken a turn towards wholesomeness.

From the north-central part of Indiana, we took off for the western edge of the state adjacent to Indianapolis for a night in Rockville, which appeared centrally located to a bunch of covered bridges, but somehow, we ended up arriving during Indiana’s largest annual festival that is centered right here in Rockville, and maybe you’ve guessed that it’s the Parke County Covered Bridge Festival focused on the area’s 31 historic bridges. With everything booked, we went on a frantic search for any available room, which proved pricey when we finally found a place in Crawfordsville, nearly 30 miles away.

Coastal Michigan Lighthouses

Crystal Lake near Frankfort, Michigan

Woke up at the R&R Motel in Frankfort, Michigan. How could we not stay in this town? Caroline is, after all, from Frankfurt. The first stop was to race up the 6 miles to the Point Betsie Lighthouse for sunrise, but the view over Crystal Lake was so compelling that we pulled over to walk down the lakeshore.

Lake Michigan near Frankfort, Michigan

With the sun yet to strike Lake Michigan, the hues of turquoise water meeting the still-gray sky were powerful enough to distract me from our objective. Regarding the birds, I can’t be certain as I write this, but it appears those birds are magnificent frigatebirds that technically shouldn’t have been in this area, but it’s not impossible that they were here either.

Point Betsie Lighthouse near Frankfort, Michigan on Lake Michigan

Under clearing blue skies, the day is starting off perfectly. Catching these first rays of sunlight on the Point Betsie Lighthouse has it appearing that our timing couldn’t have been better.

Frankfort North Pier Lighthouse in Frankfort, Michigan

Back in town, we stopped at the Crescent Bakery for breakfast, which is within easy walking distance of the Frankfort North Pier Lighthouse. If the day were to stop right here, neither Caroline nor I would have anything to complain about, but as is the story of our travels, we were hardly done.

Betsie Lake in Frankfort, Michigan

With our sights set on the Elkhart, Indiana, area for later today, we only have a brief 235 miles of driving, so going slow is absolutely in the cards. Good thing because just getting out of Frankfort is proving difficult; look at the scenery here at Betsie Lake, and you should understand the dilemma.

Betsie Lake in Frankfort, Michigan

No, Caroline, we are not going to spend the whole day with me trying to photograph the most perfect grass growing out of a shallow lake, reflected in those waters, with some fall colors showing up in the background; I’ve almost got it…

Inspiration Point in Arcadia, Michigan

Jeez, had we gotten stuck there at Betsie Lake, we’d never have made it down here to Inspiration Point in Arcadia, where we found…you knew this was coming, INSPIRATION!

Somewhere on Route 22 in western Michigan

I’m checking myself as to what is truly inspiring: a platform above the lake or this giant legless bigfoot (obviously footless, too) that is made of hay bales.

Somewhere on Route 22 in western Michigan

For my 60th birthday, I’ll compile a dozen of my favorite red barns found across the United States to roll out a 2023 calendar, but this would mean I’d have to bump my calendar of favorite abandoned homes for 2023; good thing I have time to figure this out.

Fish Tale Cafe in Onekama, Michigan

Okay, that last paragraph was a fish tale, as I have no plans for my 60th, aside from growing older, but we are seriously at the Fish Tale Cafe in Onekama, Michigan.

Fish Tale Cafe in Onekama, Michigan

Who would have ever guessed that I’d be able to claim I ate the biggest burger I’d had up to this point in my life here at the Fish Tale Cafe? Which already implies I’m making this up, but look for yourself. Do you think I shared this with Caroline? She’s a vegetarian and is having a grilled cheese and bowl of veggie soup across from me. With all this driving and raw nature, I need to keep my protein levels high.

Manistee, Michigan

Here we are in Manistee, a truly beautiful town, and all I’m posting is this stairwell. Well, it’s like this: I took a couple of dozen photos of my favorite corners but not one of them is worthy to represent here, but these lines, colors, and lighting have aesthetic qualities that I find appealing.

Manistee, Michigan

There were also these leaves in town, so Manistee also has natural beauty and not just architectural relevance.

Manistee, Michigan

Still in Manistee and now hanging out with some monarch butterflies, as one can only handle so many leaves and lighthouses.

St Joseph North Pier Inner Lighthouse in St. Joseph, Michigan

Oops, spoke too soon as here we are further down the road and angling for a shot of the St Joseph North Pier Inner Lighthouse as seen from Silver Beach.

Caroline Wise at Lion Park Beach in St. Joseph, Michigan

I don’t want to say this is a frisky look from my wife, but I don’t know how else to characterize it. The pelican she’s riding was found at Lions Park Beach which was also where we found someone’s cellphone, which we took to a local police station. As for Mr. Springy Pelican, he came back to Arizona with us.

Lion Park Beach in St. Joseph, Michigan

This morning, the color scheme was turquoise and gray; this evening, it is silver and blue, topped with a fat layer of orange. I’d guess that in a few months, everything will be bathed in winter white and gray, cold and ice, and those things that made this visit so enchanting will be dormant until spring rolls back around.

Lion Park Beach in St. Joseph, Michigan

And here I thought that truly spectacular sunsets were restricted to the desert southwest; I was wrong.

Lion Park Beach in St. Joseph, Michigan

And what the heck is this deviltry? I’d have to guess that it’s the evil of California emitting the flames of hell, which helps explain why so many people in the middle of America hate that state. Come to think about it, Arnold Schwarzenegger is the current governor; maybe he’s over there filming a new sequel to the Terminator series?

Lion Park Beach in St. Joseph, Michigan

After all the sunset action that two people could handle, we left Lake Michigan and headed for Indiana, grabbing a room on the state line in South Bend. Our goal was to sleep in Elkhart, but for one reason or another, we weren’t able to find a place.

Sleeping Bear Dunes

Staying at the edge of the water demanded we wake before sunrise to see our star rise over Saint Mary River. Regarding the city we stayed in called Sault Ste. Marie, notice that we are on the Saint Marie (Mary) River, and the Sault part of the name is from an obsolete word that is used to describe rapids. [I’m going to go out on a limb and say that it is related to the English word somersault – Caroline] It was those rapids between Lake Superior and Lake Huron that necessitated the locks that were built here.

A timelapse video would probably best depict the action of one of these massive ships passing through the locks, but I’m shooting photos, and this ship in the early sunlight will have to suffice.

Oh yeah, we are still leaf-peeping.

We pulled over near St. Ignace at the lower end of the eastern Upper Peninsula to look up at this strange rock outcropping called Castle Rock that is now used as an observation point to look out over Lake Huron. We’ll have to make a note of it and move on.

We are about to cross the Mackinac Bridge, which is currently the third-longest suspension bridge in the world. At home, looking at my photos taken that day from the Father Marquette National Memorial, I was perplexed as to why the bridge looked so short compared to the photo of the same bridge, two images below. I finally figured out that I had used my 70-200mm lens to shoot this photo at 140mm, which shrunk the space between the foreground and background. Just wait till you see how long it really is.

We turned eastward to follow the Lake Huron lakeshore. Caroline once more shed her shoes and lept into the water, or maybe she just gently strode in? With Lake Huron in the bag, so to say, we have now visited all of the Great Lakes and the Saint Lawrence Seaway. To Caroline’s bragging rights, she has stood in the waters of the Great Lakes, the Pacific, the Atlantic, and the Gulf; rivers include the Colorado, Little Colorado, Snake, Mississippi, Columbia, Yellowstone, Ohio, Klamath, Missouri, Rogue, St. Croix, the Animas and many a smaller but no less significant waterway across America.

That bridge that looked a bit short is actually 26,372 feet long, or just a hair shy of 5 miles! From this spot on the lake, we headed 20 miles southeast to Cheboygan before turning west to reach the west side of the state.

Going through Google’s Streetview, these streets look like any other streets but bordered with these bursts of color, the roads take on wholly new qualities that propel the views into something extraordinary.

Over on the western side of the state, we are back at the shore of Lake Superior.

We are moving south with an objective referenced in the title of this blog. Along the way, we’ll be passing some beautiful towns, ones I stopped at with my mother a few years before. As I’ve not recovered from that trauma yet, and I desire this trip to be uniquely Caroline’s and mine, we are bypassing Petoskey, Charlevoix, and Traverse City in order to take in more nature.

Witness this humble seagull of Charlevoix that is nothing at all like the intolerable snobs found in town. Contrary to the elitists that pollute the nearby intellectual and cultural waters of a beautiful space, this lowly seagull adds to the sense of wildness, and while it might shit on us, it isn’t an intentional act committed in the yawning ignorance of someone who fashions themselves as better than others due to their fortunate economic perch.

Driving next to Grand Traverse Bay.

Passing through Maple City.

Shetland School from 1871 near Maple City, Michigan

This former one-room schoolhouse, built in 1871, must be one of the most photographed buildings in this part of Michigan. It is now a private residence.

This little outpost near Maple City is called Michigan Traders, and for the fall season, they are hosting The Ugly Tomato Farm Market; if Caroline’s memory is correct, which it often is, this is the first place we ever tried the famous Honeycrisp apple.

Just out of Maple City in the direction of Glen Arbor is another opportunity for us to use our coveted National Park Pass, the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

It’s already late in the day upon our arrival, meaning exhibits and the visitor center are already closed for the day, no matter, as at least we’ll gather some impressions of the park anyway.

We meander along the narrow roads, waiting for the sand dunes to make an appearance.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore overlooking Lake Michigan

And here they are starting to emerge near the water’s edge.

Sunset from Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore overlooking Lake Michigan

In the eight years since we began these haphazard journies through America, we have never failed to be amazed at the sights and people we have met along the way. I can no longer tell you how many times we have sat at a precipice, hillside, forest, sand dune, trail, or roadway and watched yet another golden sunset fill us with oohs and aahs.

Just moments after I had taken the previous photo, we walked towards another vantage point. What you could not see in the setting sun was that the wind was howling. If you look at the grass here, you will see it blowing to the right, and the white fuzziness over the bright spot is a thin layer of blowing sand.

In the little town of Honor, Michigan, across from Long Lake, we pulled up a couple of seats at the Manitou restaurant before driving a few more miles south to stay in Frankfort…you know, like Frankfurt?