Number 19 of 17

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Oregon Coast November 2018

Here, at the last minute, we decided that we’d go north. The destination we are heading to is Oregon, the coast specifically; it will be our 19th visit during the past 17 years. Only seven of the previous journeys into the state were made outside of late fall and winter, with our inclination to spend time on the rocky coast during the quiet season. The photo of us above is from last year somewhere along the Oregon coast.

Three Arch Rocks March 2002

Trip 1: Back in March 2002, we made our first visit to the Oregon coast and were smitten within minutes of arrival. This is the view from Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge, seen from Oceanside Beach near Maxwell Point.

Cleetwood Trail Crater Lake July 2002

Trip 2: By July of the same year, we were once again underway on our way up through California on our way to Oregon. It was the long 4th of July, 2002, and we now knew that the drive that far north wasn’t all that difficult, so off we went. The trail took us past a remote corner of Death Valley, through a ghost town, and up to Crater Lake National Park before we turned around to race home to Phoenix, Arizona.

Mount Hood November 2002

Trip 3: Hey, it’s now November 2002, and we’ve just gotten started exploring Oregon with so much left to find. Here’s Caroline standing in an ice-cold mountain stream at the foot of Mount Hood. If you think freezing cold water phases my wife, you’d be sadly mistaken. We are now attempting to see all four corners of the state and the interior, so we have a better idea of exactly where we want to return to on future visits.

Harris Beach Yurt and Caroline Wise in Oregon November 2003

Trip 4: November 2003 and where better to go than back to Oregon. In the intervening time between visits, we’d learned that more than a few state parks along the coast have yurts as part of their accommodation offerings. Back then, they were incredibly cheap in our eyes and seemed romantic from afar. With this here, our first night staying in a yurt, we fell in love faster than it took to unlock the front door. We knew we were hooked. This photo of Caroline was taken at Harris Beach near Brookings, Oregon.

Horses near the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon

Trip 5: Barely six months had gone by before the call of Oregon summoned us back. Emboldened by the ease we were getting to places we thought were too far for 5 to 7 days, we took on this July 2004 summer drive back to Crater Lake. From there, we headed over the Columbia River and up to Washington to see Mount Rainier before driving out to Olympic National Park. Our return was via Oregon and California back to Phoenix, where the scorched desert awaited us. The photo was taken somewhere between John Day and the Columbia River in Oregon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Dutch Bros in Grants Pass, Oregon

Trip 6: This one was almost missed as we were only in Oregon for 2 hours after leaving the Redwoods down in California to head up to Grants Pass for a cup of Dutch Bros. coffee. It seemed like a great idea at the time. November 28, 2004.

Cape Meares Lighthouse in Oregon May 2005

Trip 7: May 2005, and it was time to share our affinity with the Pacific Northwest with my mother-in-law, Jutta. With Caroline and I now quite familiar with some “best of” places, we took her mom to Death Valley, the Redwoods National Park, up the coast of Oregon into Washington, and then over to Glacier National Park in Montana before dropping into Yellowstone for her second visit to that park and then down across Utah before stopping for her first-ever visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The photo is of the Cape Meares Lighthouse near Tillamook, Oregon.

Caroline Wise at Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint in Brookings, Oregon

Trip 8: Oh, it’s Thanksgiving, and there’s no better way to escape family obligations around the holidays than for us to be out on the road. November 2006 was the witness to this short 7-day excursion up through San Francisco with a quick jaunt into Oregon for a couple of days before heading down to Santa Cruz, California, to spend some time on that coast, too. The photo of Caroline was taken at the Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint near Brookings, Oregon.

Carl Washburne State Park in Oregon November 2007

Trip 9: This is becoming a trend where we pack things up for a road trip that somehow keeps ending up in Oregon in November because here we are in 2007, testing the question of, “Will it be boring this time?” The answer was a resounding “NO!” This photo was taken in the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, home of the most southerly temperate rain forest in the United States.

Rocks rising above the water in Siletz Bay, Oregon

Trip 10: You can pass Siletz Bay near Lincoln City, Oregon, one hundred times, and this view will always look different. I’m not sure we’ve stopped here that many times, but on this November 2008 trip along the coast, we were taken by the silhouettes etching out a perfect scene as our day was coming to a close. It was difficult choosing this photo of Siletz Bay when this was also the trip up the coast that had us stopping at the Devils Churn near Cape Perpetua for a sight that enchanted us for a solid hour or more. Click here to see an image from the Churn that is still one of my favorites.

Caroline Wise Kayaking in Garibaldi, Oregon September 2011

Trip 11: Oh my, it’s been three years since last we visited Oregon though we have great excuses why we couldn’t make it. In 2009, we visited Yellowstone National Park for the first time during winter. In May of that year, my mother-in-law Jutta spent two weeks with us in the Eastern United States. In 2010, we visited Yellowstone in January again, as the year before was so fascinating. Then, later in the year, we rafted the Colorado River through Grand Canyon National Park for nearly three weeks. Enjoying the idea of boating, we stretched out on our 10th trip to Oregon for some kayaking here in Garibaldi in September 2011.

Near Heceta Head Lighthouse in Oregon November 2011

Trip 12: A second visit in one year is kind of extraordinary, but we apparently have an addiction problem, and I don’t mean mushrooms. This trip saw us bringing a friend along as maybe they can corroborate our sense of amazement for Oregon or they can point out why our regard is too high, and we can back off this incessant need to visit the state every chance we get. The mushroom was photographed near Heceta Head Lighthouse in Florence, Oregon, in November 2011.

Oregon Coast November 2012

Trip 13: Rafting in Alaska this summer wasn’t enough for us, so here we are in November 2012 for our 12th visit to Oregon. With some research, information about the location of this photo could be found but I’m feeling kind of lazy about this time in trying to write this blog. You see, when I started this entry, I thought we’d made 14 visits, but then I discovered a few more trips about which, for one reason or other, I never blogged. With no photos posted here, I had just assumed my blog showed all of our visits; wrong.

South Coast of Oregon May 2013

Trip 14: Out with my daughter Jessica in May 2013 because we’d never seen the state of Oregon with her in our company; seemed like as good a reason as any.

Oregon Sunset November 2015

Trip 15: It’s that time of year again. Here we are in November 2015, and once again it’s Oregon on our minds. We missed last year due to me starting a new company to build a Virtual Reality world, only to end up neglecting ours. True, we did raft the Yampa River up in Colorado and Utah with friends, and we visited Los Angeles and San Francisco during 2014, but it was truly the slowest travel year we’d experienced in over a dozen years.

Depoe Bay, Oregon November 2016

Trip 16: November 2016, did you think there was any chance we’d miss the opportunity to visit Oregon at this time of year?

Caroline Wise at Rockaway Beach, Oregon April 2017

Trip 17: Are we bored yet? Do we look bored? One doesn’t ride the wild corn dog if things are not top-notch. April 2017 marks the first time ever we’ve been in Oregon during this month: wow! So now we’ve visited this amazing state in March, April, May, July, September, and November, leaving only six other months we’ll have to plan visits for. Where do you find this exhilarating ride? In Rockaway Beach.

Boiler Bay in Oregon November 2018

Trip 18: By now, you must have already guessed that this was shot in November 2018. If you guessed that date, you win a trip with us to Oregon on one of our next visits. You just have to pay your way and pass a compatibility test with us grizzled travelers, and maybe you’ll be out exploring such fantastic sights such as this one on a late afternoon at Boiler Bay near Depoe Bay, Oregon.

Alsek – Day 11

Alsek Lake at sunrise in Alaska

The sun is golden on the lake as we leave our tent, portending that a great day is at hand. Waking up like this is a treasure that should live within us forever. In the future, I will have to read, look, read again, and then repeat that these moments were steeped in perfection.

Alsek Lake at sunrise in Alaska

The sun shining with blue skies is arguably the “perfect” day, but if clouds and snow with some high winds had developed overnight, then that would have been perfect, too. The photos might be less than stellar in some way, though I would hope I still could have gleaned a promising angle to portray the beauty of what the cold environs were offering. To that end, I share these spectacular skies with you here on the last full day of our Alsek river journey.

Canadian tour of boaters heading down the Alsek River in front of Mount Fairweather in Alaska

A fellow group of rafters from Canadian River Expeditions who had stayed out on the knob of the island in Alsek Lake were headed out early this morning with an incredible view of Mount Fairweather to bid them safe travels. This was the second time we were denied staying out there due to others arriving before us, so it goes, as maybe it contributes a reason to visit this river a third time.

Alsek Lake at sunrise in Alaska

The view changes minute by minute, with each iteration looking more appealing than the one that preceded it.

A bee about to land on a flower near Alsek Lake in Alaska

While the bee enjoyed pollen for breakfast, we pulled in close to the fire as, although we had blue skies; it was still a bit chilly out here this morning. Fortunately, we didn’t have to make do with pollen, though flowers are abundant; we were able to feast on made-to-order omelets.

It wasn’t long after this that more than a few fellow travelers became nappers. In the distance, an eagle was heard but remained unseen. Gulls and terns flittered about as out on the lake; icebergs would roll to the sound of ice calving off the glacier far in the distance. At times, the calving must have been fairly serious as the water would surge to shore with a sound more intimidating than the effect. All the while, the clouds shift and move in and out as they dance across the morning sky, painting shadows across the landscape.

Caroline Wise's hand compared to a bear paw print next to Alsek Lake in Alaska

While I explored in one direction, Caroline headed off with Willie and Sarge to see what they could see; they came across these bear paw prints, but luckily not the bear that made them.

Camp on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

Not a bad place to camp, huh?

Camp on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

And if you need more space, you could set your tent up over there.

Out on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

There would be more than eating, sitting by the fire, and picking at chapped, dry, and peeling skin that has been exposed to more wind, water, and sun than is typical when we are back home. Out on the lake, we were rowing to a safe distance from those giant multi-ton bergs of ice that can cause havoc to tiny little people of frail form when encountering the crushing effect that old ice can play on what would have otherwise been a great day. I admit to the dilemma I face in that I simultaneously want us to row up the ice cliff so we can reach out and touch those giants and then again enjoy my distance of relative safety.

Bruce Keller, Sarge, and First Light on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Oh, how beautiful it is out here, except for these old guys. From left to right: Steve “Sarge” Alt, Bruce Keller, and Frank “First Light” Kozyn.

Out on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

Just cruising around the neighborhood and checking out big ice.

Keith Dimond, Thirsty, and Don on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

Keith, Thirsty, and Don bring up the rear of our leisurely excursion into water and ice.

William Mather on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Last photo of William Mather from this trip. Caroline and I first met Willy back on the Yampa River some years ago, and seriously enjoy his company and storytelling. We have an open invitation to visit his farm over in Scotland, and if all goes well that’s what we’ll do in the year 2020.

Surface of Alsek Lake in Alaska

If you never stop to look down at the small stuff, you might miss some of the best views in life. This is reminiscent of some of the golden patterns we’d seen back on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon.

Caroline Wise on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Paddled a raft next to icebergs; yep, been there done that.

My "Alsek" socks were just finished here at Alsek Lake by Caroline Wise while in Alaska

During the course of this Alaskan adventure, Caroline worked vigilantly on my newest pair of socks, and so here I am on the shore of Alsek Lake in front of the glacier with Mount Fairweather over my right shoulder and the Pacific a good distance behind me as I pose to model my handmade socks of love.

Rock at Alsek Lake in Alaska

We look at building materials every day of our lives. With conformity of patterns ruling our modern architecture, it is a rare day we get to see nature in all of its raw forms. Here, on this journey down the Alsek River, we have seen how ice carves the landscape, silty water scrapes river channels out of the earth, propelling boulders downstream. Forests give way to the forces of nature, various creatures cling to life in the brief moments that the environment allows their survival, and rocks crumble to dust, but before they do, they lay here for years, allowing us visitors to glimpse their intricacy and natural beauty.

Rock at Alsek Lake in Alaska

I enjoy the unexplained mystery of how this white-rusted rock becomes enmeshed in the surrounding black rocks that kind of look a bit like shale. If I give it another moment of thought, I can figure out what was happening so many years ago when these two rocks met and got married, but then the mystery will go away, and what fun is that?

A stalk of life in a desolate setting next to Alsek Lake in Alaska

This photo tells you more than what might be seen at first blush. Look at the bathtub ring of sand on the rock and keep in mind that I’m about 120 feet (40 meters) away from the lakeshore. The sand around the stalk of this plant has been washed away, not by rain but by a wave that would have risen out of the lake due to the movement of ice somewhere out there. This certainly gives me pause about where we set up our tent, and just like our previous overnight next to the lake, I’m wondering about the wisdom of desiring the waterfront abode.

Bleached drift wood at Alsek Lake in Alaska

There’s no escaping the end-of-journey melancholia that arrives with the waning final moments of a grand adventure. The feelings are amplified when the occasion is found deep in nature, as the connections to the bustle of life in a city have been pushed to the remote edges of experience. A trip to a capital city, on the other hand, will simply require us to transfer our busy activity back home, which is how we typically live anyway. There’s no way to take the serenity of nature and the big outdoors back home with us. Crashing into the airport and the frantic parents traveling with their children is an abrupt cessation of the tranquility we had while outside of civilization and all of its trappings.

Sunset over the Pacific Ocean as seen from Alsek Lake in Alaska

Dinner around the campfire on our last night next to the lake was an incredible smoked halibut chowder, great conversation, and a spectacular sunset. Could we ask for more? Okay, there is something more: that smoked halibut was from Dejon Delights back in Haines, and they do mail-order, so in this circumstance, I’ll be taking the flavor of our adventure back to Phoenix with us. Tonight, though, we sleep under the stars to the sound of calving glaciers and water lapping at the shore, forever lost in moments that should echo throughout our lives.

Oregon 2017 – Day 1

Breakfast at Besaw's in Portland, Oregon

Left Phoenix on the last non-stop flight to Portland yesterday and stayed at the same mediocre motel we usually stay when coming into and leaving Oregon when arriving by plane. Breakfast was a return engagement at Besaw’s, where our first visit was memorable enough that it warranted our coming back.

Portland, Oregon

We were running late in Portland in part because we were not in a big hurry. We had some business to care for prior to getting out of town and heading for the coast. Unfortunately, we weren’t sacrificing so much time to be able to pay a visit to our favorite bookstore, Powell’s, maybe on our next visit.

Eurorack modules from Control Voltage in Portland, Oregon

When we were in Oregon just five months ago, I was dwelling long and hard about what Eurorack modules I should buy, and instead of being fully on vacation, I was half on my synthesizer back home, dreaming about what I could add to it when I finally got to Control Voltage in Portland. This time, it is getting pushed out of the way at the beginning of the trip, plus the shop is closed on Monday when we fly back to Phoenix.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

This is our home for the next four days. You might notice that we have typically been here in November, and you might also notice that we never stay in one place for four days. Due to my work taking the majority of my time in Phoenix and what it doesn’t eat, I give to my year-old synth habit. Caroline and I needed a quick getaway for some solid us time. With Cannon Beach growing on us during our previous visits, it seemed like a great spot to put down roots.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

We arrived during low tide; lucky us.

Caroline Wise at Cannon Beach, Oregon

The tide is so low that at most any other time, Caroline would be totally submerged trying to pose here.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

Once again, we are enchanted with our good fortune to be at the sea. From our arrival at around 3:00 until dinner at 8:00 we walked and walked the length of the beach.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

With the shifting clouds and dramatically changing light, we are never bored of the views. Like November, here in late April, it’s like we have the place to ourselves.

John Wise and Caroline Wise at Cannon Beach, Oregon

Pardon the yellow tones that I couldn’t correct in this photo; I’ve been lazy of late with many of my photos and have used my phone for convenience. As I’m posting this, I’m realizing that I need to put an end to convenience and get back to serious business with quality images shot in RAW format. What is easy to see in this photo are the two happy people.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

Ten minutes later, the view looked like this. I could have taken a thousand photos this afternoon.

Hawaii – Day 10

Sunrise at Kahili Mountain Park on Kauai, Hawaii

There’s a fine line between helpful technology and technology that intrudes and disappoints. The pen and paper I use to capture these notes rarely fail. Though pens run out of ink, they are easily replaced. While an SD Card in my GoPro failing, taking with it snorkeling footage and a time-lapse of us driving from our cabin to Hanalei is a disappointment. The intrusion occurs when my mother somehow thinks it would be cool or helpful to let us know that our car that is camping at her place is having problems starting. Wow, is it the engine, battery, Mayan apocalypse? Why in the world does she think we needed distressing news texted to us? By the time we saw the message last night, it was already midnight in Arizona and so we got to go to sleep in worry.

From today’s sunrise, it wouldn’t be too far a stretch to suggest that Kukulcan, the Mayan feathered serpent god, had left the pyramid of the sun and was arriving to personally greet me in this new age; alas, it was just the patterns of the clouds allowing in patches of fiery light that stroked the imagination into fantasy.

This cock is relatively stupid while simultaneously protective of his hens; mine is out with her snorkel, scratching at the sea and pecking for fish. Sure this feathered specimen of maleness may look elegant, bold even, but at his core, he fertilizes eggs and battles for supremacy from any and all threats. Pardon the screed I’m about to share; it is my inner-cock mouthing off nonsense from my growing bias emanating from the encroachment of age.

Why wear a bikini for your cell phone when it’s for your boobs? Why wear a swimsuit that requires constant decracking? What’s up with the skimpy bikini top that forces you to dig your chin into your chest to ensure you still have nipple coverage? Small talk on beaches is highly overrated and most often inane. If the face can be an indicator of intelligence, it might appear that smarter women are more modest about their bodies and are dressed more conservatively out here. Those relying more on sex appeal than brains are flaunting a serious amount of butt cheeks along with more tats and piercings. I know I’m likely going to be accused of being sexist, but the same applies in other ways to the lunkhead men who are strutting their stuff in the same fury.

Older men still running on the high side of testosterone care little about the bulge of midriff fat or gratuitous amounts of body hair confronting others. Older men from professions tend to wear t-shirts out here, maybe due to the practicality of worrying about skin cancer. The higher the number of tattoos, the more cock-like the swagger. Forty with a rear-facing baseball cap? I can only wonder about the person’s carrying capacity that exists between their ears. ALL men check out young women’s rear ends, all of them. Muscular men travel in packs. Overweight middle-aged men travel with their spouses. Men who are traveling alone demonstrate some creepy anti-social behavior and the body language of lonely desperation, appearing sad and tragic. Strangely there are no solo women visitors to this beach. Hindus wear too many clothes in the ocean. I’ve only seen two hipsters over the course of our stay; I’m guessing they cannot afford Hawaii on coffee-shop wages. Not a goth in sight, I suppose the sun would foil their goals.

The other half of this Statler and Waldorf shtick has returned from the sea and kicks the pen from my hand, as she can tell by now when I’m channeling the grumpy old man routine.

The road to Waimea Canyon is paved with bananas and guava, along with a bevy of flowers, greenery, vines, and fields of coffee plants. These fruit, drink, and occasionally homemade baked good stands that work on the honor system are a real treat and a compelling reason you should travel with cash while on the islands.

Do you like beautiful, colorful spiders that try tricking you that they are not spiders by pairing up their legs, so you might think this four-legged yellow and black thing on the web is a trapped kitty kat? Then, venturing into the woods should be on your itinerary, too, because Hawaiians love their insects.

This orchard planted in red earth is growing some kind of stuff that is certainly not marijuana, coconut, pineapple, bananas, or corn. I’m wondering what it is, but I made no notes, nor do I remember going up to one of the trees to investigate just what they were.

We are 1,000 feet above the ocean and there is Ni’ihau again in the distance. In the foreground is Buffalo grass, which is invasive, but it does add a nice appearance to things. It is a shame how many species have invaded the islands; seems like everything and nearly everyone here is from somewhere else.

This is our first look into Waimea Canyon on this trip. This appeared much larger on our last visit, but back then, we hadn’t spent weeks at the bottom of the Grand Canyon or had just come off an adventure into the enormity of Alaska. Coming to grips with the nature of familiarity and how it alters our perspective might be a part of the maturing process, but there’s certainly a place for naivety and celebrating our first encounters with novelty.

Gaining elevation as we progress, the canyon grows in depth. Now, with our second visit to the area in pocket, we’ll have to consider hiking in Waimea Canyon should we find ourselves in Hawaii a third time. Upon searching for trails, it looks like the Kukui Trail would be perfect, especially if we could spend a night at the campground down there.

Here we are at the Kalalau overlook with the southern end of the Napali Coast over our shoulders. Down below are nearly ever-present helicopters that ply the airway to show others the spectacular part of the coast that we have yet to effectively visit. While last time we embarked on a hike out the Kalalau Trail, a broken toe that I acquired on Molokai in the days leading up to our time on Kauai thwarted our ambition under otherwise perfect weather conditions. One day, we will make it out there.

This is the Cliff Trail and is one of the shortest trails we’ve ever been on. A mere 1/10th of a mile is completed in about 4 minutes.

As we looked for vantage points to check out the view and consider trail options, this wild goat approached laughing out loud that we needed trails while it went where it pleased.

Before we get to the sunset proper I thought I’d try something different this late afternoon and share what the edge of a Hawaiian sunset looks like.

This was tough as one of my sunset photos had amazing god rays in the distance…..

….while this one is terrifically molten gold with a small boat passing by.

As we approached Waimea, the long string of parked cars was a good indicator of what lay ahead, so we simply pulled over and parked. So we wouldn’t miss a moment of the Christmas parade, we hoofed it and arrived just as the Waimea Canyon Middle School was turning the corner as the beginning of the festivities.

The parade is great with the spirit of the kids and families lining the street, making this into a party atmosphere. It all reminds me of another great parade when we were so lucky to be in Canadian, Texas, for a Middle of America Fourth of July celebration. Click HERE to visit that trip.

Along the parade route were plenty of food vendors to satisfy those of us who hadn’t set up a small BBQ in front of our chairs; as a matter of fact, Caroline and I were without chairs in any case, so where would we have set up a BBQ? The first thing I tried was some corn chowder, while Caroline opted for pasteles, a kind of Filipino tamale. After Santa passed and the parade ended, it took us over an hour to get to the other side of town. On such a small island with few roads, the people who live here full time are lucky that others allow them to pull in front of them instead of the mainland way of ensuring no one gets in. By and large, the atmosphere on the Islands is one of tremendous friendliness and people going out of their way to be polite.

It’s late, and yet it is still bright out, with the moon shining enough to illuminate the trees and our cabin from a distance. The stars are out in force and strangely enough, I wish for rain as I miss its sound on our tin roof.