It was cold and breezy with a light dusting of snow here at the Grand Canyon during sunrise when we visited a few days ago. We were wrapped up the best we could, and still, we shivered on the exposed rim. Hot chocolate from the El Tovar beckoned, but first, we huddled together, waiting for the sun to make its 7:32 morning appearance. I am always overwhelmed by the beauty of the canyon in the early morning light and intrigued by the thought that with so many visitors to this National Park, so few should brave the chill to witness this spectacle.
Linda’s Seabreeze Cafe to Home
Another cracking breakfast at Linda’s Seabreeze Cafe in Santa Cruz, California. This little cafe has been a favorite since our first visit and was a required stop this trip to introduce my mother-in-law to the uber-tasty Tropical Waffles.
The waffle is an oat and cornmeal concoction topped with what must be close to two pounds of fresh fruit, pineapple, mango, banana, strawberry, kiwi, yogurt, and a toasted coconut-macadamia-ginger mixture – YUMMY. The place opens early at 6:00 except on Sunday when they open at 7:00. Don’t forget this is a cash-only establishment; besides that, you cannot go wrong making the Seabreeze Cafe part of your trip up or down the California coast.
I should never lose the amazement created by days that began at the edge of the sea when I knew my head would take rest again in the middle of a waterless desert, but to add yet another wow factor in viewing a lighthouse at dawn, well, that is just otherworldly.
Okay, if a sea isn’t nearby to lend awe, I can easily settle on a big old lake.
Diversity of views is what I’m after, but on a day with over 700 miles of driving before getting home, it might seem a bit silly to detour into the Giant Sequoia National Monument.
Sea, snow, and sand all in one winter day put smiles on faces, and what is more important than that?
These dormant trees are not walnut, almond, pecan, or citrus, and while my first inclination was to call them persimmon trees, I can’t be certain.
If we are passing Calico, California, we are only about two hours from Arizona; heck, at this rate, we should be home by midnight.
Happy New Year
Happy New Year from the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge just south of Socorro, New Mexico. The first day of the new year began for us at 4:30 a.m. on a very cold 22-degree (-7c) windy morning for some bird watching and shivering.
It was five years ago that we made our first visit to these lands next to the Rio Grande River, but it was March, and we’d learned that we missed the prime viewing season, so later that year, in the closing days of 2002, we returned and witnessed a phenomenon that struck at our heart and tear ducts.
Now, here we are, sharing this experience with my mother-in-law, who was incredulous that we had to wake up so early to arrive at the refuge while it was still dark and oh-so-cold. But as the snow geese flew in from surrounding areas to congregate at this large frozen pond, she began to understand why the timing of being here was key.
While her face is obscured in her scarf, I can assure you that she’s as thrilled as her daughter. Her exclamations and gasps let me know that this was one of the greatest starts to a new year she’d ever experienced.
And then sunrise happened and things just got better and better.
Just the day before, this was a rippling pond, but overnight, a layer of ice formed, leaving the entire surface a slippery, frosty skating rink. This sure-footed sandhill crane made its way back and forth between small flocks of fellow cranes; maybe it was determining the warmer of the two groups.
How are we so fortunate to be offered so much beauty in such a short amount of time in the first hours of the new year?
This canal channels water from the nearby Rio Grande River into the wetlands of the wildlife refuge to maintain a healthy habitat for the wintering birds who have migrated to these southerly environs. For us lucky visitors, they reflect the beautiful light of the New Mexican early morning. The steam that arises here forms delicate ice patterns on plants, and little waterfalls spill from locks while birds float along their waters amongst the overhanging grass. All this works to enchant those who brave the cold to visit this refuge on an early winter morning.
The aforementioned Rio Grande is the lifeline of these lands and the signal that we are leaving the area.
Never content to leave perfect alone, we have other plans further down the road as we point the car towards Arizona.
The further west we go, the closer to home we get.
We are in the Gila Wilderness Area and are already on a trail along Whitewater Creek. Of course, we need to stop and smell the flowers or plants, whatever presents itself for inspection.
Can we really ever have too many reminders of those we’ve shared great adventures with? Ten years ago, I would have said my mother-in-law was offering up a half-hearted fake smile; today, I believe it is coming from genuine enthusiasm and the knowledge that she knows she is going to explore the extraordinary with us.
This is the attraction we are visiting in this small corner of New Mexico, the Catwalk Recreation Area, which allows us to walk right over Whitewater Creek, running just below our feet. From here, we’ll focus on our return to Phoenix but what a great way of closing out one year and bringing on another.
Sunrise in Santa Cruz
The day starts shortly before 6:00 a.m., and lucky for us it did. This sunrise is courtesy of our perch on the shore in Santa Cruz, California.
Our excellent breakfast was at Linda’s Seabreeze Cafe, which, along with the lighthouse view, made for the perfect beginning to the day.
Of special note: this post is being updated in February 2023 with the addition of 13 photos that were also taken during this trip from November 2006. They weren’t included back then as bandwidth limitations restricted be to 1 photo per post. The original text that described the day has been distributed between the new photos and, where possible, expanded upon.
Monterey begged us to stop to visit some of the locations we had just finished reading about in Steinbeck’s Cannery Row. Visiting the aquarium today wasn’t to happen as with more than 700 miles needing to be covered, free time is at a premium.
Maybe stupidly, maybe indulgently, we opted to skip Highway 101, which travels inland at quite a fast pace and took good old Highway 1 south along the coast.
We are suckers for the Pacific; even if it does mean we won’t get home until almost 2:30 in the morning. The weather along the coast was picture-perfect all day.
We often stop to take photos of places we’d like to stay in the future but nearly always fail to reference the old directories to find those clues. Maybe if I’d been able to write extensive posts during these days, we’d have had an easier way of finding the hints but the truth is that blog posts are not always easy things to search when looking for specific information.
Caroline asked for a stop at the Big Sur River Inn General Store to pick up her all-time favorite Eucalyptus Soap from Big Sur Country Soap. A coffee stop at the Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant is now a part of our routine – we have lost count of how many times we have been here. The view is from Nepenthe Restaurant and gift shop.
If it were possible to commit every shift in perspective to be experienced along the central California coast in our memories, Caroline and I would collect and cherish each and every one. Having made this pilgrimage seemingly countless times and finding the reality of our adventures no less exciting than the first journey, the photos drawn from those days work to draw us back and remind us of how fortunate we’ve been to drive Highway 1 as frequently as we have.
One hundred years ago, the only way anyone was going to see this view was to take a seriously long walk from points inland, or they would have boarded a ship plying California’s coastal waters, dropping the person at one of the few ports so they could make the cumbersome travel over the rugged terrain. Today, we jump in the car and drive 15 to 20 times faster than we could walk and pull over to take it all in. We live in an incredible age where I don’t think we always see clearly how lucky we are.
Lucia Lodge is not cheap, but the location is hard to beat.
A final pullover to see the elephant seals near San Simeon once again, and then it was serious business to get home – it took another 12 hours before we would put our sleepy heads to rest.
Okay, just one more look back at the beautiful sea.
While we didn’t have time to visit the James Dean Memorial itself, we snapped this photo to remind us to return. As of 2023, we’ve passed through here a few more times but still haven’t paid homage to the memorial.
Brown’s Orchard
It is 6:50 in the morning, and the sun is rising over the Dos Cabezas mountains near Willcox, Arizona. Last night, we drove 200 miles southeast of Phoenix for a weekend of visiting ghost towns and, more importantly, picking apples at Brown’s Orchard. Our cheap $35-a-night motel in Willcox is a Patel operation with the familiar Gujarati cooking smell taking over the reception area; Bollywood music plays in the background. It is cold down here, a surprise to my legs covered to the knee by my all-too-thin shorts. A polo shirt and no sweater doesn’t help this situation. Fortunately, I brought socks and hiking boots.
We’re out on this frosty morning for a drive south to check out some old ghost towns and whatever abandoned stuff we can find.
First up is Webb, originally a railroad stop for local agriculture. An old school building, now a residence, and a collapsed dwelling are all we find; an old post office is supposed to exist, but we don’t see it.
And so we continue down dirt roads, looking for Gleeson and the Arizona Ghost Town Trail.
We’ve come across Gleeson and the Joe Bono Mercantile and Bar. This old building was a general store until the 1950s, and then, after Joe Bono took it over, it was a bar that remained open until the 1970s. Apparently, it was the last operational business in town.
Through the dirty window, this was what my camera could make out of the decaying old place.
This is our second visit to Gleeson; the first time was six years ago with my mother-in-law when we stopped here at the world-famous Rattlesnake Ranch.
After a moment of backtracking we head north on the Ghost Town Trail but first a stop to inspect a giant black grasshopper that appears to be of the “Lubber” family.
This dirt road with a fair amount of washboarding is taken easily in our little Hyundai Accent – in other words, any car can make this road. In Courtland, a few remains of buildings crumble away, rejoining the earth they were formed with. The jail building is holding up the best; a nearby sidewalk comes from nothing and goes nowhere, and a few foundations hint at storefronts that may have at another time opened their doors to patrons strolling by.
Pearce is at the end of the trail near the highway and, as ghost towns go, this one is doing ok. This old jail, built in 1915 for only $615, was abandoned in the mid-1930s.
This particular weekend locals near the ghost town of Pearce have come out and set up stands roadside for a community yard sale. We stopped and found little of use, but the walk up and down the street was well worth our time. This is the Soto Bros. and Renaud Store, a.k.a. the Pearce General Store, built in 1896 that served the local population of the town of 1,500 until the place started to decline during the Great Depression. It is mid-morning, and time to get to the main reason we have made this journey.
We are going apple picking. Last year, I stumbled upon a website telling of the opportunity to pick your own apples and have them made into apple juice while you wait. The only problem was that when I called for more information, I found that it was too late in the season to come out. This year, Brown’s Orchard proprietor June called to let me know that the apples were in, and we finally arrived on the last apple-picking weekend.
With a wagon in tow, armed with fruit pickers to collect the 160 pounds (72kg) of apples we need to do our very own cider pressing. Caroline and I scour 36 acres of apple trees, hundreds of trees, in fact. We pick from Red and Golden Delicious, Red Rome Beauties, Jonathans, and our favorite – the Winesap.
The trees are beautiful this time of year with leaves turning fall colors. The ground is covered with fallen apples that a flock of sheep is munching on while two dogs watch on. The aroma is of sweet apples and fragrant vinegar as the apples on the ground have seen better days.
Finally, I struggle to drag our laden wagon with a flat tire back to the barn. Wasting no time, Gerard, June’s husband, got us to washing apples. Once cleaned, the apples are tossed into a grinder, filling a bucket that, in turn, is dumped into the press. By the time all the apples have been prepared, and it is time to start the pressing mechanism, 3 gallons (11.5 liters) of juice have naturally flowed from the apple mash already. Another 9.5 gallons are pressed from our hand-picked apples using the press.
As the juice flows, Gerard gives us a sample glass at first, I am aghast to drink anything made of apples since, in the orchard, Caroline and I must have eaten and sampled more than 20 apples each, but the juice is amazing, and so we sample, sample and sample some more. We have been ankle-deep in apples, picked and ate apples, washed, ground, squeezed, drank, wore apples, and would love to do it all over again.
Smokey Morning
Late last night, on the way home from Salt Lake City, Utah, sleep overwhelmed us into taking a room in Flagstaff. In the morning, driving south, smoke from the fires surrounding us turned the sky grey. This photo was taken between Camp Verde and Flagstaff, Arizona.