Umpqua to Siletz Bay

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Our last day on the Oregon Coast started in our rental yurt at Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. This view is from the overlook in front of the lighthouse, and between us and the ocean, you’ll find many an offroad enthusiast with some kind of vehicle racing over the sand.

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

These romantic artifacts from our past survive both as beacons beckoning us to remember the past and drawing those of us attracted to the light still visible from another age.

Siltcoos Beach in Florence, Oregon

With 375 miles ahead of us today, we will not be able to stop everywhere, but that doesn’t mean we won’t push things. We walked over the sand dunes here at Siltcoos Beach, hanging out for about a half-hour.

Siltcoos Beach in Florence, Oregon

Maybe because we don’t live here, we have to hold fast to these images and memories, immortalizing them on these pages so we can always refer to them. I wonder if those who live in these places put as much emphasis on seeing intently what might be too easy to take for granted.

Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Another short drive and we pulled over to Honeyman State Park, a park that we had somehow missed stopping at on any of our previous visits to Oregon. The air was still, and with the sky speckled with light, thin clouds, we were treated to a perfect reflection of trees, sky, sand dune, and clouds on the small lake.

Prichard Wayside in Florence, Oregon

That’s the Siuslaw River Bridge over there, and we’re at the Prichard Wayside on the south side of Florence as we take this opportunity to see this bridge from a different angle. If time allowed, we’d make it a project to capture all of the coastal bridges of Oregon from various perspectives and different lighting situations; heck, I should include that we’d like to do the same for the nine lighthouses out here, too.

Big Creek Bridge in Lane County, Oregon

Big Creek Bridge is just north of Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, which we are indeed passing by without a brief return visit.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

The same could not be said about our next stop as we pulled into the parking lot at Devils Churn for a brief stop.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

I swear, we’ll only be here a few minutes.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

Yes, Caroline, I’m almost done. I think.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

But how can we leave when things are this spectacular?

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

Well, it required nearly an hour for us to pull ourselves away and get back on the road. Let me correct this before Caroline does: it took nearly an hour of prodding. In Yachats, we drove next to the bay and marveled at the rough surf under the deep blue skies and then had a lunch of clam chowder at Mo’s Annex in Newport. Obviously, there are no photos of this segment of the drive as maybe, just maybe, I was a bit too indulgent at the Churn.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

In Otter Rock, we threw a last look into the Devil’s Punchbowl.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

No, I won’t get lost in the crashing surf here, too; I know we still have about 300 miles ahead of us, and it’s after lunch.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

Yeah, but I would have missed this one had I jumped back in the car.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

We’ve only been here for about 15 minutes.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

That is a gutsy surfer on a good 8-foot wave on a late fall day in these cold northern waters. Now we can get back to the car, and we’ll just keep going all the way to Seattle for our flight home.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Wouldn’t you know it, we ran into another distraction in Depoe Bay, where we watched water shooting no less than sixty feet into the air. This shot is not of that 60-footer; just keep scrolling.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Getting closer…

Depoe Bay, Oregon

A spouting cone was working hard as the tide was at just the right height for this horn to spout a jet of misty water high in the air, accompanied by the onlookers’ oohs and aahs. With the perfect shot in the camera, we can take our drive north seriously now.

Rocks rising above the water in Siletz Bay, Oregon

By the time we reached Siletz Bay, the sun was low in the sky, and we were trying to convince ourselves that we really should stop making all these roadside visits, but the day was so beautiful, and we suckers for beauty were mere moths drawn to the light. Click here to compare to the photo I took of the same place three days before.

Tillamook, Oregon

Under a pink, lavender, and dark blue sky, we reached Tillamook with the hopes of nabbing one more sandwich from the Blue Heron Cheese Company, but unfortunately, we were more than a few minutes too late. We arrived in Seattle, Washington, sometime late in the evening with heads full of terrific Oregon memories from our 10th visit to the state.

Sleeping Bear Dunes

Staying at the edge of the water demanded we wake before sunrise to see our star rise over Saint Mary River. Regarding the city we stayed in called Sault Ste. Marie, notice that we are on the Saint Marie (Mary) River, and the Sault part of the name is from an obsolete word that is used to describe rapids. [I’m going to go out on a limb and say that it is related to the English word somersault – Caroline] It was those rapids between Lake Superior and Lake Huron that necessitated the locks that were built here.

A timelapse video would probably best depict the action of one of these massive ships passing through the locks, but I’m shooting photos, and this ship in the early sunlight will have to suffice.

Oh yeah, we are still leaf-peeping.

We pulled over near St. Ignace at the lower end of the eastern Upper Peninsula to look up at this strange rock outcropping called Castle Rock that is now used as an observation point to look out over Lake Huron. We’ll have to make a note of it and move on.

We are about to cross the Mackinac Bridge, which is currently the third-longest suspension bridge in the world. At home, looking at my photos taken that day from the Father Marquette National Memorial, I was perplexed as to why the bridge looked so short compared to the photo of the same bridge, two images below. I finally figured out that I had used my 70-200mm lens to shoot this photo at 140mm, which shrunk the space between the foreground and background. Just wait till you see how long it really is.

We turned eastward to follow the Lake Huron lakeshore. Caroline once more shed her shoes and lept into the water, or maybe she just gently strode in? With Lake Huron in the bag, so to say, we have now visited all of the Great Lakes and the Saint Lawrence Seaway. To Caroline’s bragging rights, she has stood in the waters of the Great Lakes, the Pacific, the Atlantic, and the Gulf; rivers include the Colorado, Little Colorado, Snake, Mississippi, Columbia, Yellowstone, Ohio, Klamath, Missouri, Rogue, St. Croix, the Animas and many a smaller but no less significant waterway across America.

That bridge that looked a bit short is actually 26,372 feet long, or just a hair shy of 5 miles! From this spot on the lake, we headed 20 miles southeast to Cheboygan before turning west to reach the west side of the state.

Going through Google’s Streetview, these streets look like any other streets but bordered with these bursts of color, the roads take on wholly new qualities that propel the views into something extraordinary.

Over on the western side of the state, we are back at the shore of Lake Superior.

We are moving south with an objective referenced in the title of this blog. Along the way, we’ll be passing some beautiful towns, ones I stopped at with my mother a few years before. As I’ve not recovered from that trauma yet, and I desire this trip to be uniquely Caroline’s and mine, we are bypassing Petoskey, Charlevoix, and Traverse City in order to take in more nature.

Witness this humble seagull of Charlevoix that is nothing at all like the intolerable snobs found in town. Contrary to the elitists that pollute the nearby intellectual and cultural waters of a beautiful space, this lowly seagull adds to the sense of wildness, and while it might shit on us, it isn’t an intentional act committed in the yawning ignorance of someone who fashions themselves as better than others due to their fortunate economic perch.

Driving next to Grand Traverse Bay.

Passing through Maple City.

Shetland School from 1871 near Maple City, Michigan

This former one-room schoolhouse, built in 1871, must be one of the most photographed buildings in this part of Michigan. It is now a private residence.

This little outpost near Maple City is called Michigan Traders, and for the fall season, they are hosting The Ugly Tomato Farm Market; if Caroline’s memory is correct, which it often is, this is the first place we ever tried the famous Honeycrisp apple.

Just out of Maple City in the direction of Glen Arbor is another opportunity for us to use our coveted National Park Pass, the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

It’s already late in the day upon our arrival, meaning exhibits and the visitor center are already closed for the day, no matter, as at least we’ll gather some impressions of the park anyway.

We meander along the narrow roads, waiting for the sand dunes to make an appearance.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore overlooking Lake Michigan

And here they are starting to emerge near the water’s edge.

Sunset from Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore overlooking Lake Michigan

In the eight years since we began these haphazard journies through America, we have never failed to be amazed at the sights and people we have met along the way. I can no longer tell you how many times we have sat at a precipice, hillside, forest, sand dune, trail, or roadway and watched yet another golden sunset fill us with oohs and aahs.

Just moments after I had taken the previous photo, we walked towards another vantage point. What you could not see in the setting sun was that the wind was howling. If you look at the grass here, you will see it blowing to the right, and the white fuzziness over the bright spot is a thin layer of blowing sand.

In the little town of Honor, Michigan, across from Long Lake, we pulled up a couple of seats at the Manitou restaurant before driving a few more miles south to stay in Frankfort…you know, like Frankfurt?

Autumn

Lake Winnebago, Wisconsin

Out of the American Southwest, we aimed for the northern woods to witness autumn. Fall in Arizona is much like springtime in Arizona and not too distant from the conditions of winter. To differentiate seasons in the desert, one only needs to consider the temperature. If it’s above 90, you are moving in or out of Summer; everything else is simply the rest of the year. Through our travels and reading, we have come to be aware of the leaf peeper phenomenon. Leaf peeping is the act of venturing into the natural landscape to participate in the act of witnessing foliage change color. It is true we have some deciduous trees changing color in the mountainous areas of Arizona, but those leaves turn yellow, gold, and finally brown. Vibrant reds, vivid oranges, and fluorescent yellows must be seen where an abundance of maples grows. And so it was that we followed our inner geekiness on a pilgrimage to the forests of Wisconsin and Michigan with the hope we might catch prime leaf-peeping season before high winds and a freeze stripped the trees bare.

Fond du Lac, Wisconsin

And so, with the break of dawn and the crazy idea that we should make it to Michigan today, which is about 450 miles away according to the route up U.S. Highway 45 that we’re eyeballing, we’ll have to keep gawking at the sights to a minimum as if that were possible.

Lake Winnebago, Wisconsin

Lake Winnebago and the surrounding tributaries were our first stumbling blocks out of the gate. What the photos can’t share is the lovely sound of flocks of geese overhead, heading to warmer climes down south.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

Somewhere along the way, we passed through Oshkosh, Wisconsin. This is not Oshkosh.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

If this doesn’t sing fall to you, nothing will.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

I can assure you that they weren’t speeding, but they might have been gobbling.

New London, Wisconsin

This is no longer the City Hall for New London, Wisconsin, on Route 45; I just can’t believe a new building could be cooler than this.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

After a couple of teases yesterday, it’s looking ever more promising that the colors we’d hoped for are on big display and that we will not have to worry about finding disappointment.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

And then there was this: wtf? Who thinks these are in good taste? From my perspective, they are racist figures, and while I’m well aware that racism is alive and well across the breadth of the United States, I still prefer not to see this; then again, when we are in the South, I just know we’re going to see the rebel flag down that way. Funny how, after World War II, the German government made swastikas and images of Hitler illegal, but we can’t do something like that right here…oh yeah, freedom of speech and all that.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

If I were only in Phoenix for a week, the cinderblocks and beige everything would be experienced as an overwhelming scream of conformity, but as I live there month to month, year to year when I can get far away from that sterility, my eyes and senses demand I soak in as many old homes, barns, streams, wooden churches, and unfenced yards as I can.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

The desert bakes this scene out of your imagination. The very idea that water just flows in random places and not because it was dammed further upstream or that it’s been raining, but it’s just here boggles the mind.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

It seems that a trip for us must now have at least some dirt road; maybe this is one of the key signs of looming perfection.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

Many more of these detours, and we won’t be getting to our next destination until it’s good and dark, not that that would be a first.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

Getting back on the road…

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

…only to find another moment of distraction.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

Of course, I had to stop to photograph this old Ford truck sinking into the earth and being eaten by the weeds. Gives meaning to Found On Road Dead.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

Should you have some kind of PTSD from the leaves of fall because you’ve grown up somewhere you had to clean them away or suffer from some other kind of trauma related to an abundance of leaves, you might want to skip the next days of blogging.

Somewhere on Highway 45 in Wisconsin

Nature’s fireworks explode right in front of us.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

Here we are, entering the Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction because we needed a nice break out of the car, and walking around a lake sounded like a therapeutic jaunt that would stretch these legs.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

Wow, curling bark! This is the most beautiful curling bark I think I’ve ever seen.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

But John, didn’t you say you had to temper these jaunts else you’d arrive late in that place you are supposed to get to this evening? Yeah, but there’s some nature out here begging us to explore.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

Those famous words are coming back…as above, so below.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

Mmmm, is that a yummy squirrel snack we spy you noshing on?

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

Hey, hey, you humans, you got snacks?

Caroline Wise on the Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

This is a human squirrel scurrying through nature, hunting for visual treats. The orange hands are indicative of the female of the species.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

Like dirt roads that must be taken, a visit to the forest would be incomplete without mushrooms.

Fallison Lake Nature Trail near Boulder Junction, Wisconsin

A tree felled by a beaver is certainly not something we see very often. I could stare at those impressions left by the beaver’s teeth for a long time and try to imagine its vigilance in bringing it down one scrape at a time. That’s some serious power put to work in order to harvest dam parts.

Quinn Motel in Ironwood, Michigan

It’s almost 14 hours after we left Fond du Lac this morning that we pull up to the kind of motel we want to afford. We’re in Ironwood, Michigan, just across the border from Wisconsin, and Quinn’s is offering us an overnight stay for only $30! We couldn’t resist and couldn’t care less about the condition of the room as long as we had a dry place to sleep.

Visual Therapy

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

Moments to myself are the rehabilitative therapy I require as there are stressors, even in the most beautiful of places, that demand we take time for ourselves. The birds flying with their beaks in the water, leaving the trails behind them, are looking for food; they are called black skimmers.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

Catching the sunrise on the coast while well and good, I am like this bird out here alone with my shadow. Caroline is somewhere else, far away under that sun to the east.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

Not long from now, I’ll head back into town to visit with my uncle, but until then, I can just hang out here and watch the colors of the morning give way to those of the day.

Coast of Santa Barbara, California

The blue sky and approaching ocean all let me know that time is up; I must leave but will return.

Before the day was out, my aunt and uncle wanted to hand me an envelope of cash, but I couldn’t take that from them. They, being who they are, insisted. I had to say no. They asked what they could do for me after these weeks of helping them with so much of my time, and they went for the jugular, asking if maybe I wanted something for my camera. I told them I’d been looking at a quite expensive Canon 70-200mm lens, and they said, “Done.” It turned out that it was a hair less than what was in the envelope.