It’s Oh So Grand

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We’ve not seen all the sunrises that have ever risen over the Grand Canyon, but we’ve seen every one of them we’ve been present for, and that’s probably more than either of us might have ever expected had we imagined such a thing after our first visit here together. The thought strikes me that we might only be here at the edge a couple of times this year when these first rays of light reawaken the spectacle of this treasure, and while that will be infinitely more than the fraction of less than .01% of humans that will even visit the canyon and even less than that who will wake up here. While we are certainly in a fortunate minority of humanity as measured by those who will greet the first light of day from within a national park, it feels like there’s room for more. Maybe we can…I was going to write, “…add another day this year,” but before I could jot those characters down on my keyboard, I went ahead and looked for availability on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and there, on the last day of the season, found a cabin that had “Book Me!” written all over it. I obeyed.

El Tovar Hotel at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Of course, breakfast would be had at El Tovar, the home of Belgian hot chocolate, and as far as the Grand Canyon (and maybe all of Arizona), this is the only place to indulge in such a treat. We’ve been lucky enough to spend more than a few days in this famed hotel at the precipice of the canyon, but rooms are now hard to come by and have grown in expense. Rightfully so, considering the likely enormous upkeep of such a historic structure. So, while we may not want to spend so much of our budget on lodging, that doesn’t mean that we won’t attempt to eat every meal we can here.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

From Grand Canyon Village, we head west on foot in the direction of Hermit’s Rest, though the likelihood of getting that far is slim at best. Who cares? We’ll just walk out on that rim trail as far as time allows.

Elk at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

About a dozen elk were also heading in our direction, though their stopping to forage meant we were moving a bit faster. While they appeared nervous about us, we were equally nervous about them as they have a big weight advantage over us puny humans. Be that as it may, it is amazing to be in close proximity to such graceful wild animals that appear to daintily nibble at things and walk with a light gait.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

There were light patches of snow still present, though much of the white stuff had iced over. Speaking of ice, there are smatterings of that in shady spots in the Village as well as on the trail. Prior to choosing the rim trail, we’d already read that most entries into the canyon were loaded with enough ice to require crampons and walking sticks just to be safe, and we had brought neither.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We did bring wide-open eyes, ready for expansive vistas that we’d calculated would communicate directly with our memories and imaginations to remind and inspire us that what we thought we knew would appear new and unique. Searching those previous experiences, we couldn’t find a hint that we’d ever walked this trail as far as we are now, but even if we had, could that familiarity possibly diminish something that looks like this?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Right down there in the black rocks known as Vishnu Schist, a.k.a. the Basement, lies the river called Colorado, which is a place we have very minor experience with. Over ten years ago, as I’ve probably shared a thousand times by now, Caroline and I were aboard dories right down exactly there. We were on Day 7 of our journey and had woken up at river mile 84.6 above Clear Creek. We’d run a couple of rapids, one called Zoroaster, that was quite large, before taking out at mile 88.1 for a walk to Phantom Ranch. After an hour or two along Bright Angel Creek, visiting a gift shop, and visiting the first flush toilets in a week, we were again riverside where we’d have lunch before passing right through here to our next camp that was only 6 miles downriver.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The view from here is one of expanse and the immense flow of time. The gargantuan landscape stretches out in all directions; there doesn’t seem to be a beginning or an end. Down in the canyon, the world is ancient, within grasp, and extremely detailed until you try to reach out and experience it. From our perspective on the canyon rim, it feels like you could reach the other side rather quickly, but that’s an illusion, while on the river, there is no outside world. Infinity is nearly within reach of being understood if you’ve been on the Colorado through the Grand Canyon, but it’s an illusion as the North Rim is only about 14 miles away while the South Rim is under 8 miles via the Bright Angel Trail. Not that those distances really mean anything, as the majority of your time on the river, there is no way out other than straight ahead. Of the other trails in and out of the canyon, many are treacherous and difficult.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Today’s walk here on the Hermit’s Rest rim trail is one of extraordinary ease, other than the acclimation to the cold and elevation.

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The swerve of the trail has the pleasant effect of bringing the canyon below into view again and again.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Look at the river in the center of the photo, just to its right, and on the opposite shore is Granite Camp, which is next to Monument Creek and just above Granite Rapid at river mile 93.8. On the 28th of October, 2010, we slept right down there. While I’m no hydrological expert, I’d wager that the sandbar you can see is the result of the Class 8 rapid just upstream.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Framing, shadows, air quality, clouds or lack of them, season, time of day, and intensity of the sun all contribute to how we’ll see the Grand Canyon on any particular visit. Just stop in any of the gift shops and look at the photos on offer: aside from the fact they were taken by people with great cameras, being present at the right moment when conditions are just right plays an important role in what version of the canyon you might witness.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As the time inches past noon, we spot what looks like a perfect place for lunch right here at Mohave Point.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Before we set in for a mid-day meal, we spotted this lost necklace that had been placed on a branch awaiting its owner’s return. We are now the owners of this necklace; well, Caroline is. The chances of the person who lost it at some random spot on their walk ever returning to look for something they had no idea of when it fell from their neck is likely zero. So that it might continue to charm someone else who will now associate it with a perfect lunch stop at the Grand Canyon, it seemed only natural that it should continue its journey to other places.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It was Caroline’s idea to bring our thermos with us and a couple of bags of Heisse Liebe (Hot Love) tea from Germany. [Heisse Liebe is the name of a popular dessert in Germany, a combination of vanilla ice cream with a hot raspberry compote. Just to give the gentle reader an idea of what the flavors in this tea are – Caroline] After sharing a sandwich we had picked up this morning, we enjoyed a couple of cups of hot love and the smiles that come with that. [And also the memories of our first shared cup of tea from this very thermos in Winter in Yellowstone back in 2010 – Caroline]

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The perfect dessert feast for the eyes was next up on our mid-day break that included visual culinary delights such as this one.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The closest either of us was getting to this Mormon tea plant growing on the very edge of the cliffside would be from this photo; while I love most everything about the canyon, standing near areas where a gruesome potential death awaits those of uncertain footing drills into my acrophobia with tensions that extend empathetically to those nearby.

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

While neither you nor I can see Caroline’s face, I can tell you from experience that her eyes are telling the story of how deep these impressions she’s taking in are resonating within her. If not from nearly imperceptible extra moisture emanating from tear ducts, then the way she’ll smile at me with eyes pleading for my understanding of how monumental the experience and memories that flow through her. My wife, while vitally realistic, is also a romantic who loves indulging those things that plum her wellspring of love and sense of profound awe that we are so lucky to experience such gifts.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We made it out to the Abyss, but it turns out that we had nothing to fear as, apparently, we’d vanquished the monsters that might have looked into us. Instead, we are happiness personified by looking at an intrinsic beauty contained in the arrangement of rocks, plants, and reflected light that paints these images for all to see.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The cost to stay at the Bright Angel Lodge is $139 per day, and the price of three meals within the park will set you back between $100 and $200. Transportation to get to the Grand Canyon will depend on where you live, but if you are a mule deer, it’s all free, aside from the risk of being hit by a passing car. If you consider that a mule deer lives an average of about ten years, life in the Grand Canyon would cost us humans over $875,000. The lesson here might be: have cloven hooves instead of hands, and you may not have to toil a lifetime, never being able to afford real luxury.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I can’t remember a visit with such clear air as we’re enjoying here today. That is Humphreys Peak standing over Flagstaff, meaning we can see 70 miles (112km) south of here.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Maintaining a snail’s pace in order to allow even more of the canyon to seep into our souls, we required a solid 8 hours to walk 11 miles of rim trail out and back. It would have been 17.5 miles had we made it to Hermits Rest.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Returning at sunset, our hunger had grown large, and without a reservation at El Tovar, we could only hope for a table. We could have never guessed that this would be where we’d be sitting for dinner but this is exactly where we were seated and without any wait at all. It was dark as we finished, and the lounge had a waiting line, so a slice of apple pie and an Old Fashioned were not going to happen; instead, we headed to the upstairs part of the lobby to grab a table. I opened the computer to work on photos, Caroline brought out her knitting, and we listened to the piano player arpeggiate pop songs and lounge favorites into a glissando wormhole as big as the canyon just outside.

An encore of starlight for the walk back to our room was provided by an obliging clear sky that allowed us to marvel at a Milky Way that all too frequently is not seen by us city dwellers. Come to think of it, nothing about this time in the Grand Canyon is common to those of us who live in big cities.

Family Time – Day 2

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Darkness and cold greeted us as we left our hotel, but the tradeoff was arriving at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge at the cusp of daybreak. We’ve been here before when it was even colder and the pond we are standing next to was frozen over. But who cares about some chilly weather when already knowing what to expect, we dressed appropriately in order to brave whatever the day had to offer us. The beautiful early morning reflections are not the primary reasons we are here adjacent to the White Sands Missle Range on the Rio Grande River.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Birds, we are here for birds, lots of them. This early, while finding our place in the Refuge, we are not specifically looking for sandhill cranes yet; that’s them standing over their reflections. Nope, we have other birds in our sights. If these first two images above were the best I would have captured while making this visit, I could have gone home happy to have experienced such beautiful sights.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

But we weren’t done witnessing the extraordinary, and then again, who would have driven 450 miles (725km) for only 10 minutes of such things? Not us; we were here to milk nature in order to imbibe this intoxicating mixture of elements from the sky, water, creatures, plants, dirt, sound, smell, and feel. Stirring this all to life was a still-invisible giant ball of fire which was sending us hints like the image above that it was on its way back, just like the snow geese.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

For a good half hour, the snow geese flew in from various corners around the refuge. For reasons beyond our human brains, these bird-brained elegant animals capable of flight choose to congregate here on this lake right before us. They squawk and chatter in a secret language to which the cranes don’t seem to pay any attention, but I do. I want to know what they are saying because after enough of them have come together in a giant love puddle of snow gooseness, they hatch a masterplan that is executed in an instant with a precision that boggles my mind.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

That instant arrives when thousands of snow geese launch themselves off the water and into the sky on their way to points across the landscape to forage for food that their advanced eye-sight is able to glean in ways that insinuate that my own vision might be inferior.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Into the fiery sky, they disperse while we, who will never know what the freedom of self-powered flight is like, stand in awe, gawking at the spectacle of a giant flock of birds.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

In a flash, only the cranes remain.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Well, not only the cranes, as incredible beauty continued hanging out with us hearty travelers who were trying our best to absorb every bit of the visual symphony the scenery was wrapping us in.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Hey, rogue goose, where has your flock gone or are you going solo taking your own path?

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Don’t hesitate to note the important stuff, as some knowledge is transitory, like these birds flying across the scene. What I’m trying to say is that I think we might be at another pond at this point, but I can’t be certain. I’ve looked at the landmarks in the background, but I’m at a loss to find any specificity of location. Does it really matter?

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

I’ll go out on a limb and claim that this murmuration of blackbirds are starlings, but if they really are, I can’t really know.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Sure, the grasses are brown, gold, reddish, and kind of yellow in a palette of fall and winter hues, as are the leafless dormant trees passing through this season, but should you choose to see stagnation, lack of life, or a general sort of dullness, you might be missing the bigger picture. On closer view, the landscape is full of potential and hints of what was in the months leading up to this perfect moment. To be honest, I, probably like you, find particular beauty in scenes such as what is pictured in the very top photo above, but I’d have to attribute that to the rarity of those sights found at dawn. Those early moments at the beginning of the day or the final glow of the last remnants after the sun has dipped below the horizon typically last less than an hour, while the midday light will remain with us for many hours, bathing what we look at in light that isn’t so nuanced and transitory.

Sadly, I can hardly see what personal details and characteristics wild animals have to offer aside from their presence. Obviously, I can tell babies and juveniles from adults, but I cannot comprehend the rarity of them in this environment as I can when relying on photographs where the aging process and choice in clothes convey what stage or point in life the person was. While Jane Goodall was lucky enough to live with apes long enough to identify their personalities and people who have pets learn those animals’ characteristics, I cannot take up a spot here at the refuge where I might encounter the same snow goose or crane on a day to day basis. Instead, I’m stuck with these two loons.

And for loons, there’s only one place to eat while in Socorro, New Mexico and that’s right here at the El Camino Family Restaurant where little more than 12 hours ago we had dinner. Then, in another 8 or 9 hours from now, we’ll be right back here for dinner again, but right now, on this wonderful Christmas morning, we are grabbing breakfast.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

We’d discussed heading north to visit the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument series of church ruins but instead opted to return to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge (by the way, Bosque is pronounced “bohs-kee” in these parts. We came back for some of the trails we’d never walked before.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

And the man said unto nature, “We humans, in our generosity, have carved out this fraction of the domain your ancestors once knew, but we are not heartless to your plight of a shrinking domain, so here, take this river bottomland we are not interested in and call this home.” Up here on this cliffside, we assumed our perch over the kingdom of creatures so we might better sense the rule of all that is below. This is the joy of being GODS.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

So, if you are the god you so arrogantly claim, how about you demonstrate that lofty position and chow down on this yummy cactus paddle as the javelinas do?

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Or might you be so humble as to organize the atomic and molecular structure of the universe to produce plants just like the force of evolutionary nature does?

Oh, I see how it is; we are here to sow destruction, create entertainment that satisfies our boredom of being horrifically aware of our existence, and steal what we can from all that is or might be as it feeds our sense of superiority. The depth required to be true creators and stewards is elusive to our puny-spirited population of idiots. But not us; we are here on Christmas Day to tread lightly, eschew entertainment and the consumerist experience to find the enchantment nature is putting on display in crazy abundance, delight in this brief moment of existence, and through it all, we hope that we’ve not intruded upon the potential of other life to indulge in another perfect day too.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

While we were here at the Bosque, we walked along, chatted, and obviously took a significant number of photos, maybe too many. Then again, these images capture precisely the world as it looked to us, and as such, they appear unique as they coincide with our memories, whereas someone else’s photo taken on a different day won’t strike the same notes as these will. True, there are images I’ll share here that fail to readily demonstrate in an apparent way why I thought there was something extraordinary about the view and would certainly fail to compel someone else to walk in our footsteps, but they sing to my memories. As others go into their unfolding world using the luxury of digital photography and even a rudimentary ability to write, I’d like to encourage people to record their world in this slow medium, meaning not using video, and then, years down the road revisit these documents and appreciate just how amazing your own memory is in bringing you back to something that might have otherwise been long forgotten.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Hello, future recollections of that day back at the end of 2021 when Caroline, Jessica, and I strolled through this wildlife refuge under fluffy white clouds set against a deep blue sky, and with the sounds of birds in our ears, we just walked along with nowhere else to be.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Maybe in that sense, we were much like these deer who couldn’t have cared about the larger world outside of their immediate experience. They were in the moment having deer thoughts and doing deer things just as we were having human moments doing human things, totally unconcerned with what was happening in the larger outside world beyond being right here.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Screwbean mesquite is a species of the tree that, as far as I can determine with 2 minutes of research on Google, will have that mesquite flavor desired by grillers across the southwest. As for the beans, I’m going to invite Caroline during her editing of this post to learn about the cooking potential they might have and share what she finds. [Screwbean mesquite pods are edible, particularly ground into flour that is gluten-free and nutrient-rich. However, other mesquite species are said to be more flavorful. – Caroline]

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

The Rio Viejo trail follows a former riverbed of the Rio Grande that’s now on the other side of a berm to our far left. In its stead is this trail, the screwbean mesquite trees, along with a bunch of cottonwoods. At this time of day, though, there weren’t many birds here.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

But there was a group of javelina coming out of the nearby brush, and as we stood silently, allowing them to do and go about their business, they slowed down, checked us out, and continued on their way.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

We counted eight javelinas in this squadron (I looked that up). Walking out of the bush and prior to sensing us, they were preoccupied foraging for whatever it was they were sampling from the forest floor. I’m guessing we were afforded the close encounter with these peccaries due to the direction the wind was blowing, but when they got within about 20 feet of us, they’d stop, and while looking straight at us, their snouts started frantically wiggling as though they were evaluating the potential threat in front of them that they likely could barely see. Lucky us, we could see them all quite clearly, but unfortunately, they never were in the right position for us to gather a good sniff of their musky stink that earned them the nickname skunk pigs.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

We’ve continued up the dirt road going north to position ourselves near the Coyote Deck. From here, we’ll just hang out a good long while before continuing the loop toward where our day began.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

From corners far and wide, the geese are heading back to the safety of the ponds where they can pull up their pillows and get some rest, safe from the coyotes that would gladly make feasts of the abundance of these feathery treats.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Just as we were about to head back to the hotel so we could catch something or other on TV, maybe some football, even more birds came flying in. Don’t you just hate it when you know there’s something worthwhile on the television and nature keeps interrupting you from getting back to the important stuff, like watching all of those old Christmas movies you’ve already seen dozens of times before because It’s a Wonderful Life is just that great? Yeah, well, I was being cheeky, and although it’s Christmas day and the romantic drivel of consumer-driven merrymaking is supposed to be all the rage along with this fakey nostalgia for such ugly, repetitive nonsense, I’d rather tell you to go stuff yourself regarding traditions…watching wild birds in the air rocks while roasted geese on your table are sad and tragic, just like your pathetic lives in front of idiot boxes.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Everything in that paragraph above was written by my wife, Caroline, against my wishes as I would never take such Scrooge-like digs at this Great American Holiday, which represents the best of what we have to offer as a free and decent people. As a matter of fact, I regret that we skipped out of Phoenix for years so we could avoid my mother during Thanksgiving, as who wanted to be part of that shit show?

Editors Note: Again, my wife has taken certain liberties with this last sentence to make me appear as some kind of crude curmudgeon with a broken sentimentality organ. I would never talk ill of the dead.

Note of Truth: Okay, so I take full responsibility for all of the text in this post, but after writing for the 28 photos that preceded this descent into farce, I just couldn’t come up with nice flowery things to continue rambling about the refuge and our delight at being here. So, I took a tangent, but after 2,000 words and so many photos, there’s NO WAY anyone is still reading this; even the Google indexing algorithm probably dipped out about a thousand words ago.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Hey John, instead of turning this obviously wonderful experience into a tragic parody of some poorly executed attempt at humor, why not just delete some photos, consolidate the text, and make this easier on all of us? My best answer is, when I was choosing photos in the days leading up to the point I’d start writing, I was certain that I required every single photo I’d chosen because each had the potential to be great if only I could add some meaningful poetic musings to elevate them. Instead, I’ve, in effect, maligned the magnificence of these cranes, some geese, too, as I channeled grumpy John.

Then again, do I really look all that grumpy? By the way, my daughter used to have the world’s stinkiest feet. We recently learned it could have been due to a type of bacteria that apparently also affects dogs, so if I were a betting man, I’d say my weird-ass daughter likely played footsy with her dogs back when they were still alive. I point out their life status as after staying with her in more than a few hotel rooms this year; we’ve not had one gacking moment, not even a little one. That’s my daughter in the middle for those of you who don’t know, and maybe I should also point out finally that she blogs, occasionally as poorly as I do, over at TheJessicaness.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Bright golden grass growing out of the shallow waters of this pond with the sun setting couldn’t be left behind. Writing that, I can’t help but think about how often I have wanted to leave my daughter and her rotting feet behind, but something compelled me to keep dragging her along. Ha, no, that didn’t happen; she’s married, and lucky for me, her husband Caleb somehow adapted to enduring the wretched stench of a magnitude compared to which even my farts smelled subtle and nearly insignificant. But enough of this airing of dirty feet on my eloquent and lovely blog I’m soiling with remembering my daughter just this way on Christmas; I’ll move on, I swear.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Sunset is coming, which means we are about to leave for dinner, and I have nothing else to say.

Bosque del Apache near Socorro, New Mexico

Really, nothing. Okay, here’s a Merry Christmas, but that’s it.

Early Riser Advantage

Sunrise April 5, 2021 in Phoenix, Arizona

There’s an advantage to heading out for an early morning walk before the sun appears; it is found in sunrise scenes such as this one. These moments are tiny fragments of the day, barely lasting 5 to 10 minutes before they fade from existence. Maybe our alarm clocks should be tied to color sensors placed outdoors that alert us when certain spectacular hues are being painted overhead. It happens relatively often that we’ll nearly miss a sunset before one of us catches a glimpse of radiant skies to the west that demand we run outside to witness the last glimmering beauty found in the sky from the setting sun.

2,000 Miles In A Circle

Sunrise in Phoenix

In the ongoing saga of pandemic isolation, today marks the moment when I’ve walked over 2,000 miles in circles around our neighborhood. Having such a glorious sunrise for the occasion created a sense of celebration. Walking over 4 million steps since last March needed to be equated to something, so I checked the handy-dandy online maps and saw that I’ve walked the equivalent of the distance from Phoenix, Arizona, to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Now, that feels like I’ve accomplished something.

End of Remote Self-Isolation is Near

Sunrise in Trinidad, California

Why haven’t we ever been to Patricks Point near Trinidad, California, before? Having been to the Redwoods National Park and some of the nearby State Parks that also feature redwood trees, I must admit that I might have taken it for granted that we’d seen what was worth seeing. That is until today. Of course, there’s the blight that is Eureka, which in reality is quite beautiful in its own right, but the drug problems afflicting that community create a homeless problem and, in turn, a crime problem that has tainted the area in my eyes. Even at our lodging for the night, we were warned about leaving anything in our car if we were to visit Patricks Point State Park up the street as our host knew people whose cars had been broken into and even her own car had been robbed. With our out-of-state license plates, she felt, we’d likely be targeted. Keep in mind that we are 4 miles north of Trinidad proper and 30 miles from Eureka; such are the problems with California’s current unemployment and homeless situation.

Update summer 2024: I wrote here that this was our first visit. Well, I was wrong, and all I needed to do was check my own blog. In 2024, looking for other information for our visit this summer, I saw that we drove at least part of Patricks Point Road, starting in Trinidad and traveling north.

Sunrise in Trinidad, California

We’re at the end of Stagecoach Road and about to turn left in order to return to Highway 101 so we can begin in earnest our drive into Southern California for our last night out on the road. Instead of taking that turn, Caroline asked for one more detour to the right.

Sunrise in Trinidad, California

This was where she wanted me to go, more or less. Actually, there was a lighthouse shown to be in the area. Well, that lighthouse is about 15 feet tall and hardly qualifies as a legitimate safety beacon for passing ships as it’s more a decorative building hiding behind a hill. We are now endeared to the area though, and make a point of putting it on the mental list of places to return to.

Richardson Grove State Park in Garberville, California

In an age where public toilets are a rare commodity due to the pandemic, these redwoods will suffice in bearing witness to our need to release the waters from within.

Northern California on the 101 Highway

And then we drove and drove and then drove some more. We drove all day with very few breaks for photos, especially once we entered the Bay Area via Oakland on the 580 before hitting Interstate 5, where we’d have to pass the bovine fattening factory zone some call Cowschwitz.

Sunset on Utica Ave in Kings County, California

The interstate was slow due to holiday traffic, for although California authorities asked Californians not to travel over Thanksgiving, it was obvious that very few heeded that warning. Our excuse for being out here is that we live in Arizona with a Republican Governor who is toeing the line for the President and doesn’t give a shit about life, and we are too stupid to think for ourselves, so we threw out the little caution that eeked into our brains and went on this here Remote Self-Isolation Vacation because we are selfish and self-absorbed, well just like Californians really.

Off the major highway, we found ourselves on a farm road that grew smaller and smaller until Google had us on a dirt road for a short stretch. If an alien spaceship had hovered over us after dark in this vast black plain of nothingness, we’d not have been surprised. Finding Highway 99, we were soon in Bakersfield, and before we knew it, we were pulling into our hotel in Tehachapi. Tomorrow we go home.

Edit: Nearly out of Bakersfield, we got off Highway 58 on Oswell Street, heading to Ben Paca Mexican Grill. I wanted some Mexican food, and as far as joints near the freeway were concerned, this one came as highly rated as one might hope. The Hot Cheetos Burrito for about $10 caught my eye as I’d never heard of such a thing. Should we pass through again, we’ll be getting another one of those!

Alsek – Day 11

Alsek Lake at sunrise in Alaska

The sun is golden on the lake as we leave our tent, portending that a great day is at hand. Waking up like this is a treasure that should live within us forever. In the future, I will have to read, look, read again, and then repeat that these moments were steeped in perfection.

Alsek Lake at sunrise in Alaska

The sun shining with blue skies is arguably the “perfect” day, but if clouds and snow with some high winds had developed overnight, then that would have been perfect, too. The photos might be less than stellar in some way, though I would hope I still could have gleaned a promising angle to portray the beauty of what the cold environs were offering. To that end, I share these spectacular skies with you here on the last full day of our Alsek river journey.

Canadian tour of boaters heading down the Alsek River in front of Mount Fairweather in Alaska

A fellow group of rafters from Canadian River Expeditions who had stayed out on the knob of the island in Alsek Lake were headed out early this morning with an incredible view of Mount Fairweather to bid them safe travels. This was the second time we were denied staying out there due to others arriving before us, so it goes, as maybe it contributes a reason to visit this river a third time.

Alsek Lake at sunrise in Alaska

The view changes minute by minute, with each iteration looking more appealing than the one that preceded it.

A bee about to land on a flower near Alsek Lake in Alaska

While the bee enjoyed pollen for breakfast, we pulled in close to the fire as, although we had blue skies; it was still a bit chilly out here this morning. Fortunately, we didn’t have to make do with pollen, though flowers are abundant; we were able to feast on made-to-order omelets.

It wasn’t long after this that more than a few fellow travelers became nappers. In the distance, an eagle was heard but remained unseen. Gulls and terns flittered about as out on the lake; icebergs would roll to the sound of ice calving off the glacier far in the distance. At times, the calving must have been fairly serious as the water would surge to shore with a sound more intimidating than the effect. All the while, the clouds shift and move in and out as they dance across the morning sky, painting shadows across the landscape.

Caroline Wise's hand compared to a bear paw print next to Alsek Lake in Alaska

While I explored in one direction, Caroline headed off with Willie and Sarge to see what they could see; they came across these bear paw prints, but luckily not the bear that made them.

Camp on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

Not a bad place to camp, huh?

Camp on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

And if you need more space, you could set your tent up over there.

Out on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

There would be more than eating, sitting by the fire, and picking at chapped, dry, and peeling skin that has been exposed to more wind, water, and sun than is typical when we are back home. Out on the lake, we were rowing to a safe distance from those giant multi-ton bergs of ice that can cause havoc to tiny little people of frail form when encountering the crushing effect that old ice can play on what would have otherwise been a great day. I admit to the dilemma I face in that I simultaneously want us to row up the ice cliff so we can reach out and touch those giants and then again enjoy my distance of relative safety.

Bruce Keller, Sarge, and First Light on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Oh, how beautiful it is out here, except for these old guys. From left to right: Steve “Sarge” Alt, Bruce Keller, and Frank “First Light” Kozyn.

Out on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

Just cruising around the neighborhood and checking out big ice.

Keith Dimond, Thirsty, and Don on the Alsek Lake in Alaska

Keith, Thirsty, and Don bring up the rear of our leisurely excursion into water and ice.

William Mather on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Last photo of William Mather from this trip. Caroline and I first met Willy back on the Yampa River some years ago, and seriously enjoy his company and storytelling. We have an open invitation to visit his farm over in Scotland, and if all goes well that’s what we’ll do in the year 2020.

Surface of Alsek Lake in Alaska

If you never stop to look down at the small stuff, you might miss some of the best views in life. This is reminiscent of some of the golden patterns we’d seen back on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon.

Caroline Wise on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Paddled a raft next to icebergs; yep, been there done that.

My "Alsek" socks were just finished here at Alsek Lake by Caroline Wise while in Alaska

During the course of this Alaskan adventure, Caroline worked vigilantly on my newest pair of socks, and so here I am on the shore of Alsek Lake in front of the glacier with Mount Fairweather over my right shoulder and the Pacific a good distance behind me as I pose to model my handmade socks of love.

Rock at Alsek Lake in Alaska

We look at building materials every day of our lives. With conformity of patterns ruling our modern architecture, it is a rare day we get to see nature in all of its raw forms. Here, on this journey down the Alsek River, we have seen how ice carves the landscape, silty water scrapes river channels out of the earth, propelling boulders downstream. Forests give way to the forces of nature, various creatures cling to life in the brief moments that the environment allows their survival, and rocks crumble to dust, but before they do, they lay here for years, allowing us visitors to glimpse their intricacy and natural beauty.

Rock at Alsek Lake in Alaska

I enjoy the unexplained mystery of how this white-rusted rock becomes enmeshed in the surrounding black rocks that kind of look a bit like shale. If I give it another moment of thought, I can figure out what was happening so many years ago when these two rocks met and got married, but then the mystery will go away, and what fun is that?

A stalk of life in a desolate setting next to Alsek Lake in Alaska

This photo tells you more than what might be seen at first blush. Look at the bathtub ring of sand on the rock and keep in mind that I’m about 120 feet (40 meters) away from the lakeshore. The sand around the stalk of this plant has been washed away, not by rain but by a wave that would have risen out of the lake due to the movement of ice somewhere out there. This certainly gives me pause about where we set up our tent, and just like our previous overnight next to the lake, I’m wondering about the wisdom of desiring the waterfront abode.

Bleached drift wood at Alsek Lake in Alaska

There’s no escaping the end-of-journey melancholia that arrives with the waning final moments of a grand adventure. The feelings are amplified when the occasion is found deep in nature, as the connections to the bustle of life in a city have been pushed to the remote edges of experience. A trip to a capital city, on the other hand, will simply require us to transfer our busy activity back home, which is how we typically live anyway. There’s no way to take the serenity of nature and the big outdoors back home with us. Crashing into the airport and the frantic parents traveling with their children is an abrupt cessation of the tranquility we had while outside of civilization and all of its trappings.

Sunset over the Pacific Ocean as seen from Alsek Lake in Alaska

Dinner around the campfire on our last night next to the lake was an incredible smoked halibut chowder, great conversation, and a spectacular sunset. Could we ask for more? Okay, there is something more: that smoked halibut was from Dejon Delights back in Haines, and they do mail-order, so in this circumstance, I’ll be taking the flavor of our adventure back to Phoenix with us. Tonight, though, we sleep under the stars to the sound of calving glaciers and water lapping at the shore, forever lost in moments that should echo throughout our lives.