Camp Verde Loop

Driving north on highway 17 I leave the road to visit Black Canyon City, Arizona

I pulled off Highway I-17 just north of Phoenix, where it enters the mountains, for a brief visit to Black Canyon City.

The phone is off the hook and unavailable at the closed Black Canyon Greyhound Park in Black Canyon, Arizona

The phone is off the hook and unavailable so am I today on my 42nd Birthday. I took a long and meandering drive, making Black Canyon City my first stop. Wandering around, I visited a deserted facility that turned out to be the Black Canyon, Greyhound Park. Dusty and weathered the facility ages, just like me.

Maggie Mine in Black Canyon City, Arizona is nearly in ruins, careful this is private property

The views are great, with Towers Mountain and Crown King to the northwest. Mines dot the surrounding hills, both operative and defunct. Most of these lands are private property and well-marked as such. Mine owners are a riley bunch on the whole, so as you go around these parts, it is best to honor the “no trespassing” warnings.

Fort Verde State Historic Park in Camp Verde, Arizona

Without much to investigate, I make my way back to the 17, traveling north. Camp Verde is the next exit I take to look for Fort Verde. Fort Verde was the primary base for General George Crook’s scouts and soldiers.

Lately, Caroline has been reading the book Once They Moved Like the Wind in the car while we are out driving, and I have been going out to check out the sites referenced in the book or with historical context regarding the Indian Wars.

Historic settings inside restored and preserved buildings at Fort Verde help portray the times the fort was in use

The preserved and well-maintained buildings of Fort Verde are on the National Register of Historic Places and feature interpretive exhibits, helping the visitor draw a more vivid picture of how the Fort looked and how its residents lived while the State of Arizona was being established.

Nearby Camp Verde are worthwhile destinations, including Montezuma’s Castle and Montezuma’s Well, while only 20 miles northwest is the Verde Canyon Railroad.

Driving east out of Camp Verde the road climbs the Mogollon Rim towards Strawberry, Arizona

Driving east out of Camp Verde on State Road 260, the Mogollon Rim lies before you. The Rim extends from here to the Mogollon Mountains in southwest New Mexico, defining the southwestern edge of the Colorado Plateau.

A resident of Phoenix and parts south makes regular visits to Rim Country. The area is popular for its cool temperatures, many lakes, campgrounds, and small towns that allow an escape from the bustle of America’s sixth-largest city.

A temporary meadow lake created by melting snows on the Mogollon Rim in Arizona

In the mountains of the Mogollon Rim, the elevation rises as high as 7,000 feet, which makes for occasional snowy winters. As winter snows melt, temporary meadow lakes are created across the plateau, as seen here on the left.

The Ponderosa Pine found extensively across the Rim lends an alpine atmosphere to the region, broadening its appeal.

A black bear paw impression next to a meadow lake on the Mogollon Rim in Arizona

Within the forest, hikers and surprised drivers will often spot elk, deer, javelina, and, on rare occasions, a bear.

Walking along the above lake on my way back to the car, I spotted this relatively fresh bear track amongst some cow hoof impressions and quickly scanned the area to find out if I might be looking like a juicy berry to a bear in hiding. Fortunately, or maybe not, there was no bear to be seen.

The trail to and from Tonto Natural Bridge near Payson, Arizona

Leaving the lake on State Road 87 I am driving south through an old favorite place of mine called Strawberry. Soon after, I pass the little village of Pine, an attractive place where weekend visitors can stop to buy local honey and maybe a bite to eat.

My intended destination today, though, is the Tonto Natural Bridge State Park. The turnoff from State Road 87 to the park is a steep road leading into a tiny valley with a fee station, charging a $3 per person entry fee.

A well-marked trail guides you to the bottom of the bridge for a great view of the surroundings. Allow at least ninety minutes to hike down, explore, and hike back up.

The 183-foot-tall natural bridge as seen from a catwalk leading to the 400-foot tunnel running underneath the Tonto Natural Bridge in Arizona

The bridge itself stands 183 feet high. The tunnel below is 400 feet long and measures 150 feet at its widest point.

Rocks at the base of the bridge near the end of the tunnel are covered in moss accumulated due to a fine misting from a small waterfall trickling down from the top of the bridge like a silver curtain.

On hot days, you will find youngsters of all ages playing in the stream and standing under the cool mist descending through the mountain air. Today, at the beginning of spring, only a few other visitors have taken to the trail.

Looking into the 400-foot-long tunnel which is 150 feet wide at its broadest point at Tonto Natural Bridge in Arizona

This photograph tries but does not quite succeed in demonstrating that the tunnel you are looking through is 400 feet deep and 150 feet wide. Only a visit to Tonto Natural Bridge will relate to just how large the entire bridge structure truly is.

Before I turn to leave, I stand at the end of the catwalk, hoping the wind will direct those cool, misty waters my way so my return trip up the canyon might be just a bit more comfortable.

183 feet above the stream bed below a fine mist descends from a small waterfall draping over the Tonto Natural Bridge in Arizona

No luck with the uncooperative wind, though. This small waterfall is only to be appreciated by viewing today. The hike back out is fairly painless, even for an overweight guy like myself.

The rest of the trip home is about 90 miles south, but first, I will pass through Payson and a gorgeous valley with green mountains on my right and the four peaks to the left. Thus, my Birthday drive comes to a close.

A Day in Little India

Leaving Arizona looking east at the rising sun behind a cloudy sky

Sonal, a friend and owner of Indo Euro Foods, and I visited Little India yesterday. We left at 6:30 a.m. for the 370-mile drive west to Artesia, California, where the ethnic shopping area of Little India is situated. While Arizona is expecting rain, we drive away from the sun rising behind a light cloud cover. The overcast sky does not let up and we enter California a couple of hours after our departure. Like Arizona, California is awash in wildflowers. Purples, yellows, reds, whites, and oranges stretch toward the horizon.

The Welcome to California sign next to the freeway near the Arizona border

The eastern desert of Southern California has blossomed thousands of poppies, the state flower. My intention to stop on the freeway to grab a photo is sidelined since I wait and wait for the perfect photo until there are no more poppies on the side of the road. We are now fast approaching Los Angeles, and I am afraid we will soon be on the outskirts of the metropolis, where I will no longer find wildflowers. I take the opportunity to photograph a yellow hillside with snowy mountain peaks off in the far distance.

A yellow flowered hillside next to the 10 freeway with a snow-covered mountain peak in the distance in California

Typically, the 10 freeway into Los Angeles is a well-worn, somewhat barren brown strip of land with an occasional prison or rising mountain well away from the highway, but on this day, unlike no other I have seen out here, this road is a striking visual symphony of color. After nearly 6 hours of driving, we arrived in Artesia. Little India is found off the 91 freeway by exiting the Pioneer Blvd off-ramp and turning south.

The snack display case at RasRaj Indian fast food shop in Artesia, California

Before getting on to serious business, we find ourselves hungry and looking forward to some of the best Indian food short of home cooking. Our first stop is RasRaj, a fast-food Indian restaurant serving awesome Gujarati dishes as well as mouth-watering Indo-Chinese dishes. Everything here is vegetarian. Looking at the snacks counter, it is hard to take ordering from the menu seriously.

A sizzling plate of Indo-Chinese veggies, rice, and noodles called Manchurian Sizzler at RasRaj in Artesia, California

Well, choosing is not so hard. Of course, I will have to choose between a Thali (a variety of typical Gujarati dishes), a Somosa Chaat, or Bhel Puri, or do I go for the Manchurian Sizzler? I go for the latter, a lava-hot plate of splattering veggies, rice, and noodles. Initially, Sonal and I wanted to split an appetizer, which is actually a meal in itself – the stuffed chili. RasRaj wouldn’t have them until Saturday. Thank God, as this saved us from ourselves. After finishing our lunch, we are both too stuffed to eat a peanut.

Ziba Music and Gift Center selling Indian music, Bollywood DVD's, and musical instruments in Artesia, California

Now it is time to get busy as our day is short in Little India. The next stop is Ziba Music & Gift Center at 11808 186th Street selling Indian music from Bhangra and Lounge to Bollywood soundtracks and devotional recordings. Ziba also carries the newest DVD releases coming out of India, along with all the classics. Additionally, on offer are a few book titles chronicling favorite actors such as Shahrukh Khan and Amitabh Bachchan. If you need musical instruments from India, this would be a good stop. Sonal is here to pick up music and movies to bring to her shop in Phoenix and also some items that have been specially ordered by customers.

Earring selection at Bangle Bazaar in Little India - Artesia, California

While Sonal browses the shelves, I walk around the corner to Bangle Bazaar to find a gift for Caroline. My wife can never have enough jewelry and has taken a liking to the costume jewelry worn by Indians so I pick up a couple of earrings to appease her for not being able to come along today. Afterward, we have to leave Pioneer Blvd for a short drive to the distributor of Haldiram products. Haldiram makes sweets and snacks.

Warehouse for Haldiram products, sweets and snacks from India in Artesia, California

Sonal orders 20 different products, which end up coming in some rather large boxes. We begin to wonder if they will all fit in the van. They do, but it is apparent that we will be curtailing the shopping for lack of space. The next stop is scratched off the list, and the products we were to pick up will have to be shipped to Phoenix at a later date.

Sonal with a full shopping cart at Little India Market on Pioneer Blvd in Artesia, California

We have a product return that needs to be delivered to Ajay from Nirav, another Indian food distributor. Ajay also has a grocery store on Pioneer Blvd, the Little India Market, which is where we will drop the return. At Ajay’s, Sonal grabs a cart and quickly forgets that her van is nearing capacity. Piling stuff into the cart for her store, she throws in 12 of this and 6 of that, followed by handfuls of whatever falls into her hands – Sonal is a pro shopper. I try to put on the restraints and continuously remind her that we have so very little room left but to no avail – Sonal is gonna get what she needs for the store, and there ain’t no stoppin’ her.

Shana delivering Paneer cheese to us at Little India Market in Artesia, California

Following this frenzy, we are scheduled to meet with Shana, who has the distributorship in Southern California for the Nanak brand of Paneer cheese. She is bringing 10 cases of cheese, 5 cases of Ghee, 3 cases of Paneer Poppers, and a couple of other things that promise to lower Sonal’s van to within a couple of inches of the ground. The boxes are somehow made to fit between, up, over, on top of, and next to the other 1124 pounds of food; we will be driving back to Phoenix today. Through Shana we learn of one more stop we have to make before getting back on the freeway heading east. She knows someone who specializes in South Indian products. Following her out of the parking lot, Sonal’s van scrapes the bottom; it is literally just an inch or two off the ground.

Attempting to leave Los Angeles in bumper to bumper traffic and in the rain - we barely move.

The guy we visit sells us some Telugu and Tamil DVDs and now Sonal has a contact to make her South Indian customers in Phoenix a little happier. The van couldn’t carry even a feather’s worth of volume more. From the roof to the floor, window to window, empty corners, and the floor between our seats, everywhere in the van is a package, box, or container. On the freeway, at 6:00 p.m., we get stuck in a bumper-to-bumper crawling parking lot. It will be 2 hours before we move 35 miles and are finally on our way at a reasonable speed. It takes until shortly before 2:00 in the morning before we reach Sonal’s house and put away what needs to go in the freezer; then, I speed home and fall into bed.