Jutta On The Road – Day 10

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Glacier National Park, Montana

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Wake up, practice the ablutions you’ve adopted, and step into new, unknown experiences so your life might rise like the sun on the horizon. When the final night comes, will you be able to celebrate in the knowledge that you danced through this life, even if it’s just metaphorically? Yes, Jutta comes to America primarily to visit her daughter and maybe me a bit (but only a bit), and then there’s the obligatory exploration of aspects of her ability to bring in the new, to dance with her children in unfamiliar places, often doing unfamiliar things. Today, that involves the three of us driving into the mountains of Glacier National Park here in Montana. Before we got to this park sign, we detoured a brief way up north to the Canadian border, getting there before the sun did, turned around, and headed this way.

Glacier National Park, Montana

We were not those lucky few who could afford to stay within the park’s borders, so we had to drive down from Eureka through Whitefish and Columbia Falls to get here, but upon our arrival, it appeared that everything was just as amazingly beautiful as if we’d slept within Glacier. The lodges in the park are highly coveted and, like all great places, are booked well in advance, but don’t worry if you can’t snag a reservation; just look at the following photos to see that you too can experience the astonishing.

Glacier National Park, Montana

We’ve read that Glacier is crowded; well, maybe that’s true in the summer or up at the Logan Pass visitors center, but right here, right now, things are, as you can see, perfect.

Glacier National Park, Montana

What’s not perfect is the insane road that’s been carved out of the mountainside. Beware those who easily entertain a fear of heights.

Glacier National Park, Montana

Just looking at all that snow triggers my anxiety as I can easily imagine that during the winter, the road we are traveling is a frequent target of the snow gods ready to toss passing cars off the road. Funny how the imagination can impact the pucker factor even when such situations are not really possible or even likely but somehow have crawled into the mind.

Glacier National Park, Montana

The worst part of the road is that you can see it ahead, while the best part is EVERYTHING ELSE!

Glacier National Park, Montana

You know, to be honest, I’m happy to be here before the main summer season gets underway, as with the amount of snow here still draping the mountains, one gets a faint idea of what this corner of Montana looks like during the winter.

Glacier National Park, Montana

That’s Wild Goose Island in Lake Mary, meaning we’ve already gone over Logan Pass, and while I may be mistaken, I think that’s Going-To-The-Sun Mountain to the right and the namesake of the road we are on.

Glacier National Park, Montana

Heading into the Many Glacier area of the park that requires visitors to get on Highway 89 north towards Canada and turn off at Babb, this is one seriously big national park.

Swiftcurrent Lake at Many Glaciers in the Glacier National Park, Montana

We’ve arrived at Swiftcurrent Lake and will now dream for as many lifetimes as necessary about staying at the chalet over on the far left.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Swiftcurrent Lake at Many Glaciers in the Glacier National Park, Montana

After visiting Glacier National Park, a number of people asked if we’d ever been up to Jasper and Banff National Parks, and as sad as it is to admit here in 2022 when I’m writing this post, we’ve still not visited that corner of Canada.

Glacier National Park, Montana

It’s all pretty crazy when you stop to think that this is just a small part of the Rocky Mountain range that stretches 3,000 miles from northwest Canada down to New Mexico.

Driving north on Highway 89 towards Canada in Montana

Being a short 10 miles from the Canadian border, you bet we headed up there.

Blackfoot Nation Sculpture in Babb, Montana

We could have shared a boring photo of the customs station or sign to Canada, but this roadside Blackfoot Nation Sculpture was way better.

Somewhere on Highway 89 in Montana

Highway 89 will take us all the way to Gardiner, Montana, today, which is where we’re staying the night so we can visit the next national park first thing tomorrow.

Somewhere on Highway 89 in Montana

Along the way, we’ll pass through Fairfield, Neihart, Ringling, Wilsall, and Wineglass.

Somewhere on Highway 89 in Montana

Minutes before, we were passing through Ringling, Montana. It sure is wide open out here.

Rainbow over the Yellowstone River on Highway 89 in Montana

You just know that this had to be the last photo of the day as we cross the Yellowstone River with one fairly strong rainbow and a hint of pale one to its left. Yep, this is how life should be: rainbows welcoming us back to Yellowstone, where we’re going in the morning.

Jutta On The Road – Day 9

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

We wake up in a place that’s new to all of us. Nobody here on this adventure has any experience of what to do once the day begins in Concrete, Washington, about 40 miles south of the Canadian border. Well, I have a general idea, that’s to continue our drive eastward.

Adding a new national park to the list of these American treasures we’ve been so fortunate to visit, here we are at the North Cascades National Park today.

While everyone’s heard of the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, and Yosemite, I don’t know of anyone who’s told us that we just had to visit the North Cascades. Might this be one of the United State’s best-kept secrets, or is it like Alaska and too difficult to get out here?

We’re at Gorge Lake, fed by the Skagit River; just out of sight are some high-tension powerlines; who built powerlines through a national park?

On one hand, it’s a shame that back during these days of moving quickly through these environments, we’d race through, take in an overview, and move on. With Jutta traveling with us, it wasn’t any better or worse as our methods of taking inventory had us thinking we’d scope the amazing places we want to return to, and then at a future point, we’d do just that. That hasn’t always worked out, such as with the North Cascades.

Looking through these memories, I’m struck by how beautiful this place is and wonder if Caroline and I shouldn’t consider putting a trip to Seattle on the itinerary, renting a car, and combining a return visit with another trip to nearby Olympic National Park too so we might get to do some hiking in these areas and feel like we’ve seen something more than what can be gleaned from a pullout on the road.

Off on a tangent, I went, where were these peaks and streams? If I do plan for a return, say in 2023, where should I look for trails for us to hike?

Maybe a little too much elevation gain would be required to hike to the top of the treeline, but I could think of worse ways to spend a day.

I believe this is Mt. Terror, strangely named, I think, but then again, I’m never going to try to ascend its peak.

We left the park and drove east as my crazy ambition was to have us visit Glacier National Park tomorrow; this is just nuts. And though we might be rushing through the landscape, we still have time to stop for a woman making waffle cones for homemade ice cream in the quaint town of Winthrop.

Time for old farm buildings bordering on decay? Always.

While we may not have taken enough time to truly linger in the flora of eastern Washington, I’ll certainly try to capture enough of the sights so we can remember that we were at one time in places that might have failed to lock into our mind’s eye quite the way Yellowstone or the Oregon Coast has.

Tiger Historical Center and Museum required a stop at the request of my mother-in-law. You see, the Engelhardt’s have what you might call spirit animals associated with them or animals they grew up loving. For Caroline, that would be the snail; for her sister Stephanie, it is the mighty mouse; and for Stephanie’s husband Klaus, it is the tiger.

This is the Columbia River, and at the time of this writing, in 2022, I can’t remember in what year back in the early 2000s Caroline and I first traveled the Columbia between Oregon and Washington, but looking at this image here I’m left thinking how different this northeast part of the river looks when compared to it entering into the Pacific Ocean at the Columbia Bar.

Caroline Wise with Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at the Idaho State Sign

Taking these selfies at state lines was not always easy as the state signs themselves were not put up in consideration of sun orientation and time of day when you might be asking people with sensitive blue eyes to look, so I’ve taken plenty of squinty-eyed photos of these two women.

Then there’s the camera operator error and not recognizing that we were all too blurry to be able to use the selfie. If you are wondering what happened to Idaho and our driving across it, there were photos but nothing worth sharing.

Do not listen to sentimental music when exploring old memories; as I try to write about our moment here at the banks of the Kootenay River, the music in my ears renders a solemnity on the verge of sadness about the man I was as I applied a fierce intensity of moving us through such beautiful places instead of taking the appropriate amount of time to let it all sink in. Now that I’m older, I can better see the world through my mother-in-law’s eyes, and back then, on this trip, she was already 70 while here at the cusp of my turning 60; I’m enjoying our newer go-slow approach. I suppose this was the price to be paid when hanging out with your children still ripping through the world with a take-no-prisoners approach to life.

An American Bald Eagle flew just feet in front of our car while driving a back road and perched in a nearby tree in Montana

Just in front of our car, as we passed the Yaak River, an American Bald Eagle swept across the road and perched in a nearby tree. I stopped as quickly as possible, certain I was frightening away the eagle. Caroline jumped from the car with the camera in hand, and to our surprise, the eagle sat patiently posing while Caroline clicked away. Wow

The Tobacco River near Eureka, Montana, at sunset was near our cheap motel. While the lodging might have been a bit on the shoddy side, the views never are.