Hello Again, California

Cape Sebastian Scenic Overlook south of Gold Beach, Oregon

Is that California out in the distance? Not yet, but soon. Today’s setup down in Gold Beach was intentional for what would be our next stop today. First though, we made this quick stop at Cape Sebastian, not only for the view, but as a reminder that we want to take the trail from up here all the way down to the ocean.

Meyers Creek Beach north of Pistol River, Oregon

This is the spot we had to visit as our last stop in Oregon on this mighty, amazing coastal adventure we’ve been experiencing. Meyers Creek Beach has long been a favorite.

Meyers Creek Beach north of Pistol River, Oregon

Before we ever knew the proper name of this beach, we called it the Sharkfin Beach for obvious reasons. It is this rock jutting out of the sand and sea that created this affinity and keeps us coming back.

Meyers Creek Beach north of Pistol River, Oregon

We took time to linger in the fading moments that could be allocated to time on the Oregon Coast. While there’s some likelihood we’ll return this November, as I’ve already started making reservations, one never knows what tomorrow brings, so we have to take every second to absorb all we can.

Caroline Wise at Meyers Creek Beach north of Pistol River, Oregon

Note the hands in the pockets instead of holding the reins of Happy McKiteFace; there was no wind here, zero, zilch.

Coastal sand verbena at Meyers Creek Beach north of Pistol River, Oregon

Leaving the beach, we caught a whiff of this flowering plant that is not in bloom during our November visits. It is coastal sand verbena, and it smells brilliant.

Redwoods in Northern California

We’re on Wonder Stump Road just north of Crescent City, which is less than 15 miles from where we crossed from Oregon to California on Highway 101.

Redwoods in Northern California

These trees are today’s first encounter with the redwoods, and while some may think that 5 million of these giants of the more than 100 million that once existed is an adequate number, keep in mind that there are 39 million people living in California and nobody is suggesting the state is running out of habitable land. The tree we are standing below might be about 30 feet in diameter, meaning it could be about 300 to 400 years old. The Lost Monarch tree in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park has a circumference of approximately 84 feet (25.6 meters) while the oldest redwood is estimated to be about 2,200 years old, so even if humanity were to attempt to restore what we’ve ruined, not us, our children, grandchildren, or great-grandchildren would be around to see one of these trees reach even this circumference.

Redwoods in Northern California

It’s peculiar to my primitive brain how I can be so impressed standing at the base of one of these trees, and yet there is an entire ecosystem above me that is unvisitable and must remain a big unknown to my senses. The canopy of the redwoods may as well be at the bottom of the sea or on the moon.

Redwoods in Northern California

The Wonder Stump Road might only be two miles long, but we were lost under these trees for nearly as long as it would have taken to walk the road.

Overlook in Klamath, California

Had our goal been to get as far south as fast as we could, our time at the edge of the continent would have been a lot shorter, but that would have brought an unceremonious end to this trip, and so our route was designed to maximize time at the coast and allow us to dawdle.

Wilson Creek Beach in Klamath, California

Wilson Creek Beach was afforded a quick stop, a photo and go.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in Orick, California

We’ve turned off Highway 101 at the Newton B. Drury Scenic Byway in the Redwoods National Park on the way to the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park to slow things down even further. To simply drive by and ignore these trees and their lush environment feels like sacrilege.

Tiger Lily at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in Orick, California

Caroline spotted tiger lilies next to the road, but often, there was nowhere to easily pull over, so we continued on until we found some near a pullout.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in Orick, California

Sadly, there’d be no time for a hike into the woods because while we can take our time, as long as we reach Ukiah, where we have a hotel reservation, I have plans for a side trek off the beaten path to a place on the coast we’ve never visited before.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in Orick, California

These forays into forests that stretch far into the sky are difficult places to photograph, at least for me, as there is so much to see and only so much that can be captured adequately in a photo. While standing under these ancient and massive trees inspires us, there is no easy method of sharing just how grand it all is.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park in Orick, California

The ancestors of redwoods emerged about 200 million years ago, and then about 50 to 100 million years ago, the species split into the two types we know today, the coastal redwood and the giant sequoia. Maybe that’s what contributes to the sense of otherness, or whatever it is that feels different than other places; there are few living things on earth that we can stand amongst that have been on the planet longer.

Patricks Point Drive in Patricks Point, California

Heed this stop sign, or you will certainly regret your indiscretion. We are on Patricks Point Road.

Luffenholtz Beach in Trinidad, California

This is Luffenholtz Beach south of Trinidad, and while Caroline and I drove at least part of this road back in 2006 (we know we did because there’s a blog post) neither of us has any recollection of that drive. As a matter of fact, in 2020, we thought we were traveling this road for the very first time, stating just that in a post.

Mattole Road near Ferndale, California

We have left Highway 101 again, this time for a road we are absolutely 100% certain we’ve never driven before. The initial stretch of road is California 211, but in Ferndale, the road shrinks as we head out on the Mattole Road for the Lost Coast.

Mattole Road heading towards Cape Town, California

Many sections of the road out here are only a single lane, and they are also in tight curves with big blind spots, so stopping is not an option. Then, we emerge from the dark forest into wide-open vistas that are idyllic, serene landscapes.

Mattole Road heading towards Cape Town, California

Without guardrails, I’m inclined to hug the centerline and drive at barely 20mph, else we risk falling off the road and into the infinity of time.

Cape Town, California

We’ve arrived in Cape Town, as in California, not South Africa.

Mattole Road heading to Black Sand Beach on The Lost Coast of California

After driving for a while, we had some idea of the frequency of other cars traveling this road and felt okay about stopping in the middle of the street and jumping out for a photo.

Adjacent to Black Sand Beach on The Lost Coast of California

You wouldn’t know it from this view, but we’ve arrived at the Black Sand Beach down here on the Lost Coast north of the King Range National Conservation Area. I’ll turn around and show you.

Black Sand Beach on The Lost Coast of California

There’s nothing and almost nobody else down here.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Black Sand Beach on The Lost Coast of California

Well, there were these two dorks hanging out looking for the things we’d possibly not seen before.

Gumboot chiton shell at the Black Sand Beach on The Lost Coast of California

Seek, and you shall find. We were on our way back to the car when I spotted something peculiar that turned into the great treasure of this month away from Arizona: the shell of a gumboot chiton.

Point of Cows on Mattole Road at The Lost Coast of California

Somewhere along the road, and not marked, is the Point of Cows. That’s what we are calling this in lieu of finding the exact spot from the map.

Mattole Road near Petrolia, California

This concludes our coastal adventure as we turn inland and start the serious effort to move ourselves closer to home.

Lindley Ranch in Petrolia, California

Much of the landscape for the first 20 miles after leaving our turn inland was similar to what we were driving past on our way out, but still, I felt I should offer at least a peek at what is on this end of Mattole Road as we drive through Petrolia.

Mattole River Bridge in Honeydew, California

Our last photo of the day is from the Mattole River Truss Bridge in Honeydew, population 277, of which we met three of the locals. They were sitting near the bridge and informed us that this old relic from 1920 is going to be torn out and replaced with a modern structure. We learned a few other things from the heavily stoned and friendly people, but what they didn’t tell us was that we should probably have used this bridge and taken the northern route back to Highway 101 because the way we went included some sandy loose gravel sections of road in tight curves on steep mountainsides. More than once, I was given an adrenalin boost from the abject terror I was feeling as we started losing traction, and fear informed me that if I lost momentum, our tires would never grip this stuff well enough to let us finish going up the incline. I was close to panic. Consequently, I didn’t stop one time before reaching Highway 101, and by the time we reached Ukiah for the night, I was exhausted. What an adventure it was.

Leaving via the Redwoods

It’s 7:00 as we start to pull away from our yurt here at Harris Beach State Park in the far south of Oregon. We have 400 miles to drive today in order for us to reach Sacramento, California, for our flight home. Fortunately, we are booked on the 7:40 p.m. departure with an arrival in Phoenix at 10:30 p.m.

With no less than 7 hours required to reach the airport, we don’t have a lot of time today to goof off.

I don’t know if we missed this on the way up or if we were in too much of a hurry to reach our yurt, but a headless Babe here at Trees of Mystery certainly demanded a photo. What I wouldn’t give for some red and white paint along with a ladder so I could get up there and paint a bloody stump over the canvas….maybe I’m remembering Mark Pauline at SRL (Survival Research Laboratories) and channeling his shenanigans?

We’d made good time on the road, and with a few hours to spare, we needed to spend time amongst the Redwoods. The lighting was just right, so here we go.

I can no longer tell you which part of the park we were visiting as just as I shared in the previous posts, this entry is being penned 13 years after the visit. Read the day before this if you want more details of what happened.

This year of 2007 saw us traveling a lot. In January, we spent New Year’s at Bosque del Apache over in New Mexico, watching snow geese launch at dawn. A week later, we were in San Francisco for five days, and before the month was over, we made it to the Grand Canyon and Los Angeles. Of course, my mother-in-law Jutta was with us, and we definitely had to entertain her, but we didn’t stop there. February took us to Death Valley for a few days, but then we took a break until the end of March before heading over to Santa Barbara to visit family. In April, we visited the Trinity Site in New Mexico, home of the first atomic blast. In Early May, we flew into Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, for a 15-day East Coast trip that had us in New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusets, Rhode Island, Connecticut, back to New York and Pennsylvania, before dipping into Maryland, spending a minute in North Carolina, zipping through Virginia and then driving back to Pennsylvania to catch a Chihuly glass art installation at the Phipps Conservatory. Restless, we returned to Santa Barbara in June and then spent the 4th of July in Yellowstone for five days. Nothing happened after that until August, when New Mexico drew us back. September saw us heading into Kansas so Caroline could learn to make yarn by learning to use a spinning wheel; actually, that took quite a while. And now here we are in California checking out raindrops on ferns and I can honestly say that they are just as fascinating as any geyser, great lake, lighthouse, canyon, or ponies out on Assateague Island.

It’s long been our belief to find the magic in every place we visit and to be fully in the moment instead of comparing our present situation to something else we could be doing. The fern growing out of the trunk of this tree should be as inspiring as seeing Old Faithful erupt or even just waiting nearby as Old Faithful gurgles and belches between performances. Try to imagine yourself as an explorer who just stepped off the boat from Europe in a nearby bay some hundreds of years ago, and you are seeing a tree of size and height unimaginable from where you are from; this is where we are every time we fall into a place, whether we’ve been there before or not.

A brilliant metaphor is in this photo: our path is blocked by this ginormous fallen tree. Did we have to turn around? Did we crawl under in that tiny space? Out of view, there was a detour we were able to navigate; isn’t this a good approach to the blockages we encounter in life? Why wasn’t I taught that before I became a teen and found myself lost in puberty?

I’m always taken by the paths that are carved through these environments. Making these places more accessible so we people leave the least amount of impact is brilliant. Not only are more of us afforded the opportunity to fall in love with our natural environment, but we also gain valuable memories that spur our dreams to consider where our next steps might take us.

By the way, when preparing these photos for posting, I find the quality often to be horrible with their 8-megapixel resolution but even with the relatively poor quality, I’m happy to have these reminders. How different it is to look at someone else’s images of a place compared to looking at our own. While seeing these again is almost like seeing a stranger’s photos, in the back of my mind, I know that I saw this with my own two eyes, which somehow allows them to be fully familiar.

Did I get carried away in sharing?

But it’s all soooo beautiful and dripping with pretty.

Moss on trees? Yeah, I’m all about that.

Climbing into the universe of the mushroom? You already know I love it there.

Contrast and change? Right up my curiosity.

It’s the vertical fern leaf in the dark shadow that made this photo for me.

But we can’t stay here physically forever; we have a plane to catch.

So we’ll have to get out here and call this short 2-hour visit to the Redwoods enough. While I’m sure I’ve shared it here countless times, I know that when we landed back in Phoenix and drove away from the airport at 10:30, we were pinching ourselves that the day began waking up in a yurt next to the ocean, followed by a long walk through the Redwoods before returning to the desert. Life is magical, all of it.