Carl G. Washburne – Rainforest

Yachats, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Beautiful Yachats, Oregon, which we should call home in retirement. (Well, that was our thinking in 2008 when things were still affordable up along the Oregon Coast. Nowadays, in 2022, as I’m expanding this post, that dream is no longer possible due to private equity and AirBnB destroying the ability to find affordability in places where big profit can be exploited.)

Devils Churn in Yachats, Oregon

The ferocity of the Devil’s Churn persuaded us that we didn’t need to spend another minute here and that we should just get down the road, or else be trapped for hours while I aim to take the most perfect photo of the chaos.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Having visited so many of these locations on prior outings, we now have a repertoire of places requiring revisits. Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park is one of those destinations in our ever-growing list of must-return-to sites.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

From sand dunes to rocky coastal mountains, the Oregon Coast is a treasure trove for exploration, but here at the Carl Washburne State Park, a lush rainforest is roadside and yet rarely visited. While the opposite side of the road, with its Hobbit trail to the mile-long sandy beach, is popular, the China Creek trail sees few visitors. This works out fine for Caroline and me, for we appreciate the quiet, the solitude, and the solemnity of this overgrown, mushroom and moss-infested forest.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Elk are said to inhabit the area along the trail, but they have remained elusive to us so far; mushrooms, though, are here in abundance.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Mushrooms come in all shapes and sizes. Imagine that these were elephants or unicorns, and there’d be millions lining up to witness the spectacle. Well, lucky us that people don’t find the same enjoyment in the rain forest so it’s all ours.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Or maybe Oregon should import gorillas into these environments, and then the crowds would come, though that would just ruin our pilgrimages to this beautiful little corner of the coast.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Ha, I should point out that this part of the trail isn’t even in the deepest part of the forest yet; that’s still coming up.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Just past these mushrooms.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

And then, blam, you are in the moss-covered three-handled family gradunza. That’s right, if you ever wondered what Dr. Seuss took influence from, this was it.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Our happy place.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

If we were small enough, our happy place might be under this mushroom, but we are giants.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Though not so giant as to compete with the trees.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Nor as big as the sun that shines down these rays into the trees, casting shadows within the fog.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

So, the best we can be are puny people in awe of how incredible not only the place is, but how fortunate we are to realize we can be here to be energized in the magic of light and shadow.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

In Arizona, the spider webs are invisible in our zero-humidity, dry climate, but up here, they are gathers of both insects and dew.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Maybe I’m getting too carried away with the god-ray photos?

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Well then, here’s a salamander taking a break with the green world around it reflected in its eyes.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Wait a minute, have I shared a photo previously of this exact location? Probably, but I’ve also taken a thousand photos of my wife and shared them too.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Not a mushroom but an alien intelligence sent here to observe us.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

I sure have created myself a task I often feel ill-prepared for by adding all of these photos. I’ve endeavored to include a corresponding amount of something to say about each, but that’s difficult, especially considering that I’ve likely written about the general area and impressions a dozen or more times.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Looking back at these memories, I see the forest as it was and still is; Caroline looks almost the same, while I’ve grown thinner and grayer. We still have that green camera bag, Caroline only recently retired that flannel shirt we bought at Euro-Disney in 1992, and she wore at our Las Vegas wedding, and we are still not quite satisfied that we’ve experienced enough of Oregon, and so this November 2022, like so many other Novembers, we’ll be back, likely on this exact trail.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

We’ve often wondered how many of our photos are from essentially the exact same spot. For that matter, how many of these words have been written verbatim time and again?

The Hobbit Trail at the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

After starting the China Creek Trail at the trailhead near the park office and covering the Valley trail, you may cross over Highway 101, where you can choose to hike to Heceta Head Lighthouse or turn right over the Hobbit Trail, returning to the park entrance on the beach (hopefully at low tide).

Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

This is one of the majestic photos that defy my belief that I captured it. Caroline should chime in here about now and inform me that, in fact, she took it.

[Come on, John, everybody knows that only you take nice photos ^_^  Caroline]

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Two selfies of us in one post can only mean I’m giving into the nostalgia of things, or maybe I enjoy getting lost in the romantic notion that those two smiling faces have been sharing space in front of the camera for so many years.

Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

This guy or gal is an uncommon sight for us to see on a beach in Oregon, especially at this time of year.

Winchester Bay in Reedsport, Oregon

I believe we are at Winchester Bay, which would make sense with our lodging being just around the corner.

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

If this is the Umpqua River Lighthouse, and it is, then we must be staying in yet another yurt because just behind that lighthouse is the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. Apparently, this was our first time staying at this park, as far as the old reservation confirmations I still have in email. We were in yurt C53, and some years later, we stayed in B18, followed in 2019 and 2021 when we stayed in C35, which is the same yurt we’ll be occupying in November 2022.

Devil’s Churn

Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Before crossing the Yaquina Bay Bridge from Newport over to South Beach, I just had to grab this photo but couldn’t avoid the lens flare; this image was the best of the lot.

South Beach Fish Market in South Beach, Oregon

Today’s breakfast was a yummy, albeit less than totally nutritious, combination of fresh fried fish and french fries from the South Beach Fish Market. The sampler plate featuring halibut, tuna, and salmon made for a great hot breakfast that won’t likely be duplicated in our desert environs of Phoenix any time soon.

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

A short walk at the Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park for bird watching was next up.

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

The way our travel plans often work up here is that we look for places we’d overlooked on previous visits, but then something catches our attention, and we act on impulse, finding somewhere to park and venturing out. At other times, we had places that were especially attractive on previous visits and couldn’t resist their allure to return as we were about to drive by while skipping new spots, often with some small amount of regret.

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

While we might know logically that there are only so many configurations of grass, water, mushrooms, moss, trees, birds, and other elements that decorate a place, they are always new and exciting to us. Just look at that log, and its reflection in the water, spectacular isn’t it?

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

The first thing you see is the grey heron, but look just below it.

Foam being shot into the air from the roiling waves below at Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

Uh oh, it’s the addiction danger place where it’s all too easy to get lost watching waves crash here at the Devils Churn. Located in the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, this wedge of basalt rock carved into the mountainy coast works to create a phenomenon when incoming waves swell in the narrowing wedge and turn into a frothy frosting-like foam before plowing into the ever-tightening rocks and shooting upwards of forty, fifty, at times what looks like one-hundred feet into the air like a geyser.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

With each swell, the water level piles up until a break in the waves allows the seawater to start exiting the slot, but just as quickly, another wave comes in, plowing over what is trying to escape.

Foam being shot into the air from the roiling waves below at Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

It is at the point where forces meet that these momentary sculptures rise and fall in a blink of an eye, never to be duplicated again.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

During high tide, we watched more than one person stand a wee bit too close to the roiling waters and get sprayed for their foolhardiness. One man was knocked off his feet – scary, to say the least, as no one would ever dare jump into those waters to save someone. On the bottom left of this image, in the dark rocks, are two people risking it all.

Foam being shot into the air from the roiling waves below at Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

As the waters shoot aloft and churn, this wicked thick foam rides atop the waves, adding a deceptive quiet calm to the seething waters below and mimicking the appearance of those waves made famous by the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai in the woodblock print titled The Great Wave.

Oregon Coast off Highway 101

After hours of watching the Devils Churn, we had some remaining daylight for further sightseeing.

Oregon Coast off Highway 101

The road south was the way we traveled, though we’d be staying north of here.

Oregon Coast off Highway 101

Somewhere over there is Agate Creek, lost in the fog. The view next to Highway 101 is taken from the location of the next photo.

John Wise sitting next to the ocean at Brays Point, Oregon

No, this is not the “Braying Ass Point,” just Brays Point.

Heceta Head Lighthouse near Florence, Oregon, is the furthest south we’ll travel tonight.

Okay, just one more photo of the beautiful dark emerald sea, and we’ll be on our way.

Caroline Wise at the Drift Inn Hotel and Restaurant in Yachats, Oregon

We had some laundry to deal with before grabbing dinner back up in Yachats, where we’d be staying. Later, we enjoyed a fantastic dinner at the historic pub and cafe, The Drift Inn with some truly great musical accompaniment offered by the band Coin of the Realm. Zach Konowalchuk on violin (passed away at 24 years old, just four years after we met him), David Konowalchuk on guitar, and Evans Longshore on bass made up the trio who played us traditional foot-tapping Ukrainian folk melodies. Prior to this evening, we had not listened to Ukrainian music but were so impressed we bought all three of Zach’s CDs. Thanks, guys, for making our night so memorable and fun.

Clay Myers Natural Area

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Another beautiful day on the Oregon Coast. Not that this implies a sunny warm day – remember this is Oregon – but nonetheless, it was a beautiful day.

We watched the sunrise from an overlook at the Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge that offered a mighty view of the ocean to the west and the sun peeking through clouds and over the mountains to the east.

Geese in the fields below us began their chorus of honking before lifting off in small groups on their quest for breakfast.

Pacific City Beach and Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area are out there in the early morning sun.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

The Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge viewing platform is top-notch,

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Following the chilly sunrise, we took a short drive to the Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island for the Island Loop Trail hike.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

This short 1.4 mile (2.25km) trail leads us past a wetlands overlook, through a coastal forest, to the estuary overlook and beachside.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

As I’ve said, it is years later as I write a lot of this, in this case, it’s October 2022 and just a month before we will find ourselves in Oregon again. Looking at these images I can’t help but head over to Alltrails to search for some hikes we’ve never taken over the many excursions along the coast. So, instead of writing I’m dreaming, which is kind of like being in Oregon anyway.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Along the path, we spied hundreds of wild mushrooms and various sorts of fungi including the most intriguing one, a red-tipped black and grey fungus. Sadly, it was quite difficult to photograph hence the mushroom picture offered above in its stead.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

We’ve likely seen all of these mushrooms before, but that doesn’t stop us from finding them intriguing every time we encounter them.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Looks like elephant skin to me.

Siletz Bay on a foggy day is still better than no Siletz Bay.

And the moments of stormy seas never fail to bring raw excitement as the ocean attacks the shore. Driving South we decided that Highway 101 was too busy for us and gave the Otter Crest Loop Road a try. There were some stretches where we felt we were the only people outside. Probably because the wind and rain were picking up.

Hey Caroline, “You sure you want to be out in that blustery rain and risk having our umbrella torn to shreds?”

Contrary to what might be seen at first blush, this is a beautiful shot of vibrantly green forest that without the presence of such thick fog, would have been framed by deep blue sky. As it is, it really is just a bunch of gray with hints of trees.

The trail alludes to the places we cannot go while something out in the mystery of that forbidden place wants to draw us in.

Most of the rest of the day was whittled away exploring the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse. Unfortunately, the facilities were about to close so we could not enter the visitor center and you need to be on a tour to enter the lighthouse.

Nah, that doesn’t look ominous to me. How could those dark heavy clouds be anything more than some thick fog?

A couple of harbor seals were as eager to check us out as we were them. I can’t get over how super black their eyes looked in this light.

This is our yurt kitchen here at South Beach State Park in Newport. I don’t think I pointed it out earlier, but this trip has been kind of special regarding our meals because I made a serious effort to cook for Caroline every night we’ve been out here. Being vegetarian on the Oregon Coast doesn’t offer her a lot of choices, but my cooking delivers just that much more luxury to her. I don’t mean to brag but she loved it and I think it added to the overall romance we’re sharing out here.

On The Trail

Yurt at Cape Lookout State Park in Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Packed up and cleaned out, we are leaving our yurt at the Cape Lookout State Park just the way we found it when we checked in two days ago. While you may not be able to see it for yourself, this is the most luxurious of all lodgings we consistently return to; nothing is better or more romantic in our view.

View from Cape Lookout in Oregon

Move with the first light of day; you might, on occasion, stumble into sights that will stay with you for a lifetime. They become special due to their rarity as after some time, you’ll recognize that most of the sights are yours alone as people cherish laziness and the warmth of their bed more than the luxury that the new day offers those looking for it.

Caroline Wise and John Wise

Guess who’s out here with us? That’s right, Mr. Sunlight is here and will hopefully start warming our cheeks.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

Nope, no fog that way, nor anyone else.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

Well, there is this woodpecker out on the trail with us, and while it certainly is known to make noise, it’s somehow more appealing than the chatter that might come from those who enjoy speaking loudly in quiet places.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

The light said, “Come into me, and I will deliver you to a place of eternal perfection,” and so we went, and there we were.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

Once we’d had enough of perfection, we moved on to this view that was adequate. Sorry about the snark; it was perfect.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

Could this get any better? Yes, that part is in the next photo.

Caroline Wise and John Wise with Ann on the Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

Meet Ann; we did, on the Cape Lookout Trail that we’ve been hiking this morning. This nice lady is a mere 70 years old and was hiking briskly along all by herself. She told us how she has hiked nearly every trail between Ft. Stevens and Cape Lookout and over 30 miles of trail in Forest Park, Portland. Not one to be fearful, Ann shared her stories of venturing into Africa and New Zealand on her own, too. Her husband passed away some years ago, but she did not let that slow her down. It is always inspiring to meet such a determined spirit who is charging into life instead of passively watching it slip by. We were honored to meet her at the end of the trail, where Caroline, Ann, and I chatted for a while, listening and looking for whales.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

Intermittent terror walked with me on some of these trails where some flimsy bushes were all that stood between me and death should I somehow be thrust off the trail or misstep and catapult myself a few feet into the air and off the side. Yep, certain death at every corner.

Cape Lookout trail in Oregon

What happened to the rest of the day? There’s no telling as without notes detailing what we might have done; we only have these visual fragments that cannot tell the full story.

Though the images easily convey the fact that we experienced the day under glorious skies and must certainly have had a great time, had the day delivered otherwise, the photographic proof would have shown the derailing of perfection.

Spending the night down there on the left near Devils Lake in Lincoln City, another night in a yurt, and for only about $30, it’s the greatest deal in all of America.

Whalen Island, Oregon

Near Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Moss is the perfect accompaniment to a slow, lazy day where being on a chill plan of just taking things as they come is in order. On one of our excursions up or down the coastal highway, Caroline spotted something of interest, and without the promise of dramatic blue skies over a silvery ocean, we decided to head inland for a change.

Near Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

This narrow road leads us to the Munson Creek Falls State Natural Site. I’m guessing you can figure out what that includes.

Caroline Wise on trail at Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

It includes a Caroline wrapped up in her playfully brightly colored thick beanie and scarf. Well, that’s it for the day; we can go get dinner and return to our yurt to listen to more ocean rolling in onto the shore.

On trail at Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

As though there was no doubt about our season of celebration, we are here at our favorite time of year, fall.

On trail at Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

This is Munson Creek and not the falls.

On trail at Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

More of Munson Creek. If you are wondering about the namesake of the park we are in, the weather wasn’t cooperating to offer me the photo I’d be good with sharing, so you’ll just have to visit this area near Pleasant Valley, Oregon, and see the falls for yourself.

On trail at Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

There was plenty of damp forest and small mushrooms to keep our interest along the short 1/2-mile trail.

On trail at Munson Creek Falls near Pleasant Valley, Oregon

We’re talking about some very small mushrooms and as you can see from the glistening fern fronds, light misting rain that all worked together to create mystery and wishes for even greater quiet in the November solitude.

Near Tillamook, Oregon

The approach of mid-day left us feeling like it was eternal morning.

Tillamook, Oregon

It’s lunchtime when we start moving into the town of Tillamook looking for food, but why consider our options when we know the only possibility is another luxury stop at the Blue Heron French Cheese Company? We picked up a couple of apples at a roadside stand selling fruits and veggies, and before we left Tillamook, we made a stop at Rainy Day Books (now closed), where a recommendation has us leaving with The Long Walk by Slawomir Rawicz describing his escape from Siberia.

Nestucca Bay Yarns in Lincoln City, Oregon

We took a long, slow drive south to Lincoln City so Caroline could get some yarn shopping in at Nestucca Bay Yarns (now closed); scratch this wish list item off the list of things to do.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

As the day winds down, we are driving back up north for another night at Cape Lookout. Reaching the Clay Myers State Natural Area and Whalen Island, we were offered a dramatic sky that hints at it being the best we’ll see of a sunset on this relaxed, almost languid day on the Oregon Coast.

Near Cape Lookout south of Netarts, Oregon

No more owls were spotted overhead, maybe because the fog was too thick.

Near Cape Lookout south of Netarts, Oregon

There may not be a lot to see, but what we do glean is maybe even more enchanting than on a sunny day, which is more common during our visits this far from home than these densely foggy ones.

Cape Lookout south of Netarts, Oregon

Outside the front door of our yurt on the inky dark coastline, we got a fire going to make our dinner. If we had a hot chocolate from Dutch Bros. while we sat there warming by the embers, I can no longer remember, but I’d like to believe we did.

Nehalem Spit

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Early Monday morning, we left our yurt at Nehalem State Park in Oregon for a walk south on the Nehalem Spit.

While I can’t hear it at this time, I just know that these crashing waves were offering their part of the symphony we listen to while strolling the ocean at the water’s edge.

Tree stumps are an invasive species here at the edge of the ocean. Without eradication, they’ll quickly populate the beach and grow a forest, so remember to always report to the local authorities when you spot these intruders.

Emerging from the depths, this jellyfish was plotting the takeover of the human race that is poisoning its beautiful sea.

No, seriously, how cold are you?

Surfer riding a wave into the outlet of the Nehalem River near Brighton, Oregon

Our five-mile trek took us to the mouth of the Nehalem River to find this surfer riding the waves where the river meets the ocean. In the relatively narrow channel, the lone surfer waited patiently, and on a few occasions, while we acted as his unseen audience, he would catch a wave that would propel him far up the channel for a ride that seemed to last a couple of minutes.

As stoked as he must have been, so were we at the solitude and beauty of the ocean-side walk. We spent nearly half of our day here.

Another key part of the orchestra and amazing visuals on offer when tuned to channel Oregon Coast in the Fall.

What was the average direction the wind blew overnight? That way, to the right.

If movie theaters in Arizona offered us high-definition live streams of coastal scenes from the more beautiful locations on earth, we’d grab some popcorn and purchase tickets for a double-feature at least once a week.

Leaving a beach is always difficult for Caroline and often requires her to stop a moment for one last look back at what we are leaving behind.

After some serious time spent walking along the coast today, it was time for a good long drive. We’re passing through Rockaway Beach just doing some sightseeing.

We made it as far as Siletz Bay near Lincoln City, Oregon, before turning around as our lodging is back up north.

Blue Heron Cheese Company in Tillamook is always great for a bite to eat, not just for us either.

On Bayocean Road next to Tillamook Bay, we are taking the scenic route to this evening’s lodging.

That spit of land in the middle of the photo is the site of the town of Bayocean, which is long gone. A hotel, bowling alley, and even a 1,000-seat movie theater were out there. By 1960, the last house was destroyed by a storm, and by 1971, the last remnant of a building was scrubbed from the place that was once home to 2,000 inhabitants.

There’s a lighthouse right out here, but for some reason or other, I apparently forgot to take a photo of it, or we didn’t take the walk.

This is part of the trail to the lighthouse, so why there were no photos just doesn’t make any sense.

The view over Short Beach, south of the Cape Meares Lighthouse, that if you squint hard you might see the tiny speck on the furthest outcropping way out there.

It was only a couple of miles between Short Beach and Oceanside, but we moved at what must have been a nearly imperceptible speed.

Look closely, and you’ll notice the clouds below the sun are the same clouds from the photo above. I’m pointing this out as people frequently comment on how beautiful our photos are, and this, I think, exemplifies the importance of changing your perspective and taking more photos than you can ever use, so you have some favorites to choose from.

Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge in Oceanside, Oregon, means we are returning to the north so we can check in at the state park before the sun fully disappears for the night.

Hawk-eye John spotted this barred owl perched on a branch in the shadowy forest just over the road. I was certain that as I reversed and pulled over for a better look, he’d fly off, but there he was, seemingly staring as intently at us as we were at him.

Cape Lookout State Park south of Tillamook is the place we’ll be taking up a yurt for another night or two as with this kind of sunset and surroundings, who wouldn’t want to linger just a bit longer?