Oregon – Day 5

Caroline Wise on the beach in Oregon

Step 1. Walk on the beach, listen to the surf, get lost being mesmerized by the scene.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 2. Enter a rainforest, listen to the moss, and get lost, mesmerized by how lush it is.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 3. Walk on a rainforest trail, hear the silence, and find yourself enchanted by the serenity.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 4. Look for tiny details and examine the light; you will become aware of how profound all of this is.

Newt in Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 5. Find other life, examine it; you are just like a newt, except you are probably not toxic like this rough-skinned newt that we should avoid picking up… but come on, they are so cute!

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 6. Look up and let the sun illuminate your path, and be careful of what might lay underfoot.

Mushroom in Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 7. Realize you will see things you’ve never seen before, take photos, but leave things as you found them so others who follow can also discover the magical.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 8. Just because you’ve seen something once doesn’t mean it won’t be just as spectacular on your next encounter.

Snail in Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Step 9. Know when to keep your pace slow; life is not a race you win by reaching the end first.

Oregon Coast

Step 10. Exit the rain forest feeling refreshed, invigorated, and transformed by your encounter with slow.

Gorse on the Oregon Coast

Bonus Step. Stay out of the gorse as it is spiny and will hurt you badly. If you think you want a sample of this beautiful but invasive species, bring scissors because, as a hedgerow plant, it is tough and will defy your feeble attempts to harvest a branch with your bare hands.

11. When all else fails, return to the ocean and admire the spectacular play of light and water.

Oregon – Day 4

Oregon Coast

Toys and Time: Do You Have Enough?

I’m sitting about 100 feet above the Pacific Ocean in Lincoln City on a sunny morning, following a three-mile walk on the beach to get breakfast at the first place we came across. Jay, the owner of Vivian’s Restaurant & BBQ, greeted us, was our server, and a lot more. His place is named after his in-laws, and the guy truly loves his place on Earth. We didn’t talk much about the food, but we did get a lesson in the behaviors and language of the local birds.

An egret that was on the prowl when we arrived makes way for the heron that is dominant along this small lake that feeds the “world’s shortest river,” a.k.a. D River. Jay told us about this pecking order in addition to his observations of the gulls that keep sentry nearby to announce to the rest of the flock in hearing distance that the ducks are being fed. The ducks don’t get much, but what they do get is unbuttered. They don’t butter the toast here because kids can’t help but feed the birds, nor can Jay, and at least this way, the birds aren’t getting the worst of what we can offer them.

Because we had time to sit awhile and listen to the proprietor, we were able to share something that would have never been known about this little corner of the world had we been in a hurry or simply driven to some fast food joint. Time was the precious commodity that gave this experience to us.

Back in our room at the Pelican Shores Inn, I opened up my computer and checked to see how many people commented on the photo we posted as we started our walk up the beach. On my phone, I play with two people who are battling me in Words with Friends. I open a blank document and look for inspiration to start writing. Before finding it, I make the rounds through my current favorite websites, such as KVRaudio, Pinchplant, Synthtopia, the Reaktor user library, and even AnalogueHaven, as I’m always tempting myself to throw another Eurorack module into a shopping cart.

This is my brief dip into a few of the places that satisfy my need to play with toys. While this very computer I’m writing on is a primary tool in my toy box, there are other gadgets and dreams of new hobbies that are yet to drain my wallet.

Just for your knowledge, this computer is not something I do “chores” with – it is essential to my daily fun. Not only do I scour the world for information or keep abreast of what my friends are eating, but I also play. Sitting on my taskbar are tools for making 3D art, sculpting, painting, photo manipulation, creating audio samples, composing music, editing video, and then a couple of things I don’t even know how to use, but someday I’ll open them up, stream in a tutorial and know as little about it as I do some other things, but I’m happy.

So here on vacation, I have the best of all worlds: toys, time, and things to do, such as walks along the ocean and eating. In other words, I’m creating experiences. I’m not watching television; I’m not at the hookah lounge watching TV and smoking; I’m not asking if you’d like fries with that – this is my time, and I’d venture a wager that not enough of us do that.

But now it’s about to become housekeeping time as our visit to this hotel is coming to a close. In a few minutes, we have to check out so my thoughts will have to continue down the road and from another experience.

Lincoln City, Oregon

View from our room. That was the beach we walked to the left on for breakfast and subsequently returned on.

Caroline Wise under the rainbow on the Oregon coast

Someday, I’ll count the number of photos we’ve taken of one or both of us standing under a rainbow, but for now, I’ll just put it out there that it’s probably been thousands. Okay, so I’ll admit right now that this is likely loaded with exaggeration, but that’s the size of the fish, and I’m sticking to it.

Caroline Wise at Toasted Cafe in Depoe Bay, Oregon

In continuing our theme of going slow on this trip, we stopped at Toasted in Depoe Bay for some coffee, knitting, and writing. If you could read the screen, you’d see this next block of text as it was being written:

Caroline’s eating Toe-Jam in the rain while Soft Cell asks Where Has Our Love Gone? That’s our midday on the Oregon coast. I should offer some clarification: we are in a coffee shop out of the rain, and Toe-Jam is this shop’s name for whole-grain bread with apricot jam and feta; the eighties music, sadly, is what it is. This is likely the first time we’ve ever stopped in Depoe Bay for more than staring at the surf that puts on a great display here as a blow-hole shoots water up out of the rocks during certain tidal events.

Today though, is gray, and the sea is relatively calm. We’re not worried about things as the weather is in constant flux and can change every ten minutes.

Her feeding has me feeling like it’s my time to do likewise, and so instead of leaving this to chance, I search for my best options; Sea Hag in Depoe Bay or Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport. The Hag wins for the name, but the fresh fish options down the road look to be the better draw. So I’ll pack up and get going before I ever really got going here in this meager attempt at writing something or other.

Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport, Oregon

Late lunch meets early dinner, or will we throw caution to the wind and overeat? Our first encounter with Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport, Oregon, will not be our last. This dish of whatever it was, must have been yummy because the place impressed both of us.

The view from Local Ocean Seafood in Newport, Oregon

The sky has opened up to let the sunshine through once more in the time it took us to drive from Depoe Bay to Newport and have lunch.

Oregon Coast

This is the rest of the day where the ocean, sun, clouds, birds, sand, and other elements command our attention, and we do little else than offer our obeisance.

Oregon Coast

It was a long walk down the beach to this very short cave and a unique view of the ocean.

Seagull staring me in the eye on the Oregon Coast

Who’s looking at whom?

Seagulls on the Oregon Coast

Just taking it all in and giving things very little thought.

Oregon Coast

The view from our room in Yachats and the end of my brief writing for this day. Sometimes, you just gotta chill.

Oregon – Day 3

Drift wood on the Oregon Coast

Driftwood is a perfect metaphor for a life being well-lived. Take time, lots of time, and grow. Go deep and, with the seasons, allow the inevitable change to take hold. When you are still young and green, you can tower over those around you, grab hold of the infinite sunshine, and absorb as much as you can. Your energy is boundless, your thirst rapacious. Then, at your most confident, another tree eclipses you and is crowding you out. Its leaves are greener and somehow fresher. You never even noticed that it was standing taller than you while you were busy admiring yourself. Then a wind storm comes along, and the roots that kept you grounded have grown weak, and you topple, but you are not gone. There is still a path for your continued contribution. One is that you will be a fertile place for other life to take hold as you nourish their existence and offer shelter to help them along on their journey. The other path will take you from the place you called home and deliver you on an adventure across waterways and seas where, although you turn gray with age, you become an exquisite object of beauty. I am becoming driftwood.

Coastal Oregon

Channels of light, blankets of shade, paths of wind, and bodies of water: this landscape is a mutable canvas. How do we adopt this natural art as mental persuasion which alters our mindscape by shifting the elements and allowing us to glow in a similar beauty such as that which we find in our travels and discoveries? It’s easy to fall in love with the surface of things; it takes time and hard work to understand the deeper intricacies of just what it is that creates such magnificence.

Path to the sea on the Oregon coast

Is the path always straight ahead? Is it mostly clear? Once you reach the other side, is the depth beyond your ability to make instant sense of the situation, or might you already be floating on that which you brought with you in order to be prepared for taking on new challenges? Finding new things in previously unseen places is one of the human rewards where our imagination allows us to discover a wealth of experience that feeds our dreams. On the other hand, it is also quite likely that we never put ourselves in a situation where we must look into the unknown down a path we’d prefer we’d never seen.

Oregon Coast

Moments of reflection are transitional and dependent on perfect circumstances. Dry sand and turbulent water are not conducive to mirroring anything, though both are fun and allow us an amount of carefree play within and upon them. When the water surface is calm or a thin sheen of water washes over the beach, we are presented with a clarity of the reverse image of what is being reflected. For those moments, we see the same world differently. In our minds, we must find the calm waters of existence with an added sheen of knowledge washing over our senses to find ourselves reflected differently than the same old picture that makes up the majority of the time we are present.

Oregon Coast

Rays of golden light and horizons of days to come as experience washes in with the tide. We are present and aware of our changing world in subtle ways unique to each of our perspectives. Just 30 feet below or 100 feet south, the view of reality is vastly different compared to those who might observe the scene from yet another vantage point.

Oregon Coast

Maelstrom and light, calm and darkness, fluid and solid, life and death. These all exist simultaneously in the narrowest slice and in the broadest sense of all that is before me, and yet within, we are encouraged to harness the calm, tame the darkness, and embrace life. Yet we are complex composites of the elements that have created our world, not a tiny subset to be ordered and made tidy. My inner turmoil is as chaotic as the crashing waves; the light used to find my way dims and becomes familiar with being shrouded in bad weather. I am fluid and try to be solid; my life is grand, and death is inevitable. The interplay and dancing of my constituent parts are my landscape, with roots that ebb and flow and yet allow me to take unforeseen paths. After my arrival, I gained perspective where knowledge can be reflected upon others I might encounter on this adventure.

Oregon – Day 2

John Wise and Caroline on the Oregon Coast

This blog entry is not exactly like others I’ve made, just as this trip is a bit different than others, too. I needed some restorative time with myself, and my wife is the perfect complement that allows me to find that. Today, I was able to spend some quality time writing, not that I had an agenda or even a seed of thought of what I would write about, I only knew that I wanted to sit somewhere and give the process a chance to happen. This is what came out of the first session after breakfast.

Sitting in Contemplation:

Would a bird be able to fly thinking of quantum electrodynamics? No, that is why they can be birds. We can think of escape velocities and find solutions to great problems; this is why we can be human.

Sitting here next to the ocean, taking time to think of nothing, I’m waiting for my imagination to return while my critical brain is encouraged to lay fallow. Turning off the mental process and worry after months of being constantly buried with the stress of running a busy life has taken its toll on allowing me to find solace in relaxation; these two things should never be placed in a sentence next to each other. Relaxing need not be stressful, but when through that exercise, we desire to find the quiet mind that opens the creative window where the bounty of imaginative thought resides and find it blocked by the chatter of that which inhibits us from truly being on mental holiday, then finding that sought after relaxation becomes yet another chore that brings more stress and not the desired solace.

We should strive to remove more from the repertoire of brain-making-noise activity. Take the time to stare into the sky, the waves, at the grasses being blown by the light wind. Get lost in the shifting cloud layers whose patterns of light change the silvery sheen cast down upon the roiling surf. Meditate on the mother and son walking barefoot on an early fall day in cool northern ocean waters and realize they are there in the moment for hugs and the playful creation of memories that will stay with both of them for the rest of their lives. Take inspiration from the dogs running in futility after seagulls that should always remain elusive from the maws of canines, yet while their attempt does not end in triumph; it does allow those watching their enthusiasm to have fun in their sprint across the sand and surf.

We are two days into an extended coastal vacation, and the initial rush into shutting off the outside world is just now starting to offer results. The inside world, the one that appreciates this contrast of golden seagrass, wet sand, the green crest of the waves before they break into foamy surf, and the stretching of the deep ocean into the horizon where my ability to understand its size or bounty is beyond the scope of my experience is only now starting to dawn. Overhead, the sky shifts from layers of blues, whites, and grays to a flat palette of sorrowful heaviness portending bad weather. Without a dramatic, lively blue sky dancing under the sun, my eye focuses on the ridgelines of blowing grass being combed by the wind that also encourages those walking just beyond the dune to bundle up and find warmth within.

This is what I seek: the warmth within. Not the kind of warmth that keeps us toasty and protected from the cold, but the warmth of creative flow that only arrives with the calming of the noisy mind. I will continue to sit here next to the ocean in search of nothing much more than the quiet and casual observation of a world that continues to show me its heartbeat. The pulse of life cannot be enjoyed if one doesn’t remember to take the time to see and listen to the murmur that can only be experienced when the last word has been thought and spoken. It is time to fly.

Salami, cheese, and bread from Andreoli Italian Grocer back in Arizona

Our lunch break is a gift from Giovanni at Andreoli Italian Grocer back in Arizona. Following our feast, we will head out for some serious exploration and walking, along with another coffee or two.

Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach, Oregon

We are not venturing far and wide but are instead spending quality time being slow. Here at Cannon Beach in November, we have found the perfect place to be in relative solitude away from crowds with just enough amenities to bring us the creature comforts of luxury.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

Night in Contemplation:

Writing when there’s nothing to write about because there’s nothing else to do and nothing left to read. I can’t turn on the television with the ocean in front of me with the sound of crashing waves rolling in. The low-frequency thud of a deep but unfelt earthquake sounded while the occasional flash of lightning was seen on the horizon to the west. The last time I witnessed the sound of a quake was on a winter night in Yellowstone, as a small earthquake was heard in the distance. Strange earth tones, for sure, and one we are not witnessing very often.

What of the possible tempest in the distance? I’ve heard that a winter thunderstorm on the Oregon coast this time of year is not a common thing to experience either. Nor is this cold that has me near shivering due to my familiarity with our desert home in Arizona. Oh, how we take for granted our creature comforts! While, yes, we are ocean side and on the fourth floor of our motel, the windows are open and the cold air has been blowing into our room since this afternoon and has made our temporary dwelling nearly as cold inside as it is outside. At least it’s dry in here; out there, it has been raining off and on.

A sound will drag me out on our balcony to hear an engine, a voice in the distance, or something of who knows what kind of nature? I come back in to at least get out of the low winds, though gusts can cut right into my face with a slap of supercooled air: winter is in the air.

My fingers are starting to feel as though they’ll start shaking in the cold. I rub my feet together and try to entangle my toes to generate some heat through friction. I’d like to shut the sliding door but that would turn off the ocean and all the random other sounds which are mixed in with the constant roar of the sea.

The brightest flash of lightning yet pulled me from my chair. I stood waiting for another flash that never came. Still, it’s cold out in the wind; lucky me, it’s just cold in here and not windy. So I watched the horizon for another minute or so, and then I heard the remnant of thunder that had traveled many a mile over the Pacific to reach us with its low rumble.

This then begs the question: if having heard the sound of a distant earthquake, was that, in fact, thunder? You see, I can’t say I’ve ever heard thunder from a storm that was more than about 30 seconds away. This thunder was at least 60 seconds, if not 90 seconds or more, after I saw the flash.

I’m not comfortable, and yet I am. I’m cold, but it’s the night’s embrace sharing itself with us. It’s the loneliness of the ocean keeping that kind of overbearing knowledge of vastness away from those of us whose nature would be swallowed by immensity if we were to encounter it on its own terms. Instead, we must only listen to its roaring song on the fringe of its edges.

The sound coming through the open door has become white noise that has lost a lot of its early character when, in the middle of the day, I was watching its illuminated waters so vigilantly and associating its sound characteristics with individual waves and encounters with parts of the landscape. Tonight, though, while I sit in front of its orchestra, I cannot simultaneously see the ocean and type at the same time. Outside, there’s just enough light to see a bit into the distance, but here, we only get to feel the moistened air that is the ocean’s exhale.

I take comfort in this experience that has so much to share that differs from what I find in my normal routine. One cannot simply turn on the cold any better here than a desert dweller can turn down the heat on a summer day. So if a vacation is to do something out of the ordinary as it compares to our daily habits, then maybe weather vacationing should be a thing. Live in Phoenix? Take a week of January in Minnesota to truly feel the different clime, allowing you to know that you are on a true vacation.

I should sleep now, but the cold has caffeinated me into a cramping shiver; I should close the door and allow the yawn to drag me off to comfort. Will I miss out on a special sound, such as a draft or howl of cold wind, that would offer yet another unforgettable memory? Such as the 70mph gales storm winds that drove Caroline and me from a New Year’s perch in a bird’s nest on a cliffside in Big Sur some years ago.

There’s so much nothing I think I’d rather be doing, and sleeping shouldn’t be one of them, but I must. I should try to be reasonable, though how should I know what for, when we are free to do what we will, until when we’d like to, as nothing is on our agenda? Oh well, I’ve sat here and dropped almost 900 words on the page that hardly feels like a thing was accomplished. Musing need not be reflective of genius but of a process that evolves.

Oregon – Day 1

Caroline Wise at Pine State Biscuits in Portland, Oregon

We flew into Portland, Oregon, late last night and went directly to Rodeway Inn by the airport, where we’ve stayed a number of times and where we’ll stay at the end of this trip before flying back to Phoenix in 10 days. An excellent breakfast and knitting were had at Pine State Biscuits in downtown Portland, and then it was time to braid the Columbia River on our way to the Pacific.

Caroline Wise and John Wise making a pit stop at 420 Holiday in Longview, Washington

Recreational marijuana is legal up here in Oregon and Washington, so why not stop and inspect the goods as the last time I looked at legal marijuana in a shop was in Amsterdam. This particular shop in Longview, Washington, seemed fitting to the idea of a vacation with the name 420 Holiday. If you are wondering if we bought some weed, come on, do we look like stoners?

Caroline Wise in front of a Welcome to Washington state sign

From Oregon over to Washington and then Washington back to Oregon.

Wahkiakum County Ferry on the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington

And then Washington back to Oregon, or something like that. This is the Wahkiakum County Ferry on the Columbia River between Puget Island, Washington, and Westport, Oregon, and it is the last ferry on the river before it dumps into the ocean. Every chance we get, we’ll opt to take a ferry, even if it’s a bit out of the way.

Astoria, Oregon looking across the Columbia River to Washington

Made it to Astoria, Oregon, and while I’m tempted to drive over that bridge into Washington to go get a coffee and a pastry at Chinook Coffee (love this little roadside shack), we are here early enough to go to this place on the river that has been closed by the time we are passing through on our other visits.

Whalebone Yarn Swift at the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon

The day started with knitting, so let’s continue with a theme; here at the Columbia River Maritime Museum is a Whalebone Yarn Swift, which was used to hold a skein of yarn while it is wound into a ball.

The Light Ship Columbia at the Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon

This floating lighthouse is a Light Ship named Columbia and is a National Historic Landmark. The mouth of the Columbia and the crossing of the “bar” is notoriously treacherous, and this “Light Ship”  helped guide the way. As you might deduce from the available light, we were too late to visit this landmark and so now we have one more reason to come back to Oregon.