Solo Across America – Day 7

Corn field on the Lincoln Highway east of Upper Sandusky, Ohio

Car in a cornfield. Ya, that wasn’t very inspiring, was it? My mornings are spent frantically writing in my hotel room while knowing full well that the sun is rising without me there to witness it. By the time I’m on the road, depending on the time, I get moving again, so I feel like I’m making progress inching closer to Buffalo, New York. No coffee, no hot breakfast, typically anyway, but when a quiet location inspires me, I pull over and have a roadside breakfast. Today, it was in a cornfield off the Old Lincoln Highway. As I’ve written here before, or so I think, I have an ice chest with provisions and a crate with dry goods, such as my homemade granola.

Farm details near Nevada, Ohio

While I’ve shared a few images of old-fashioned grain silos over these past few days, I’ve ended up neglecting these new versions; this particular setup is used for a small farm instead of a co-op that shares those giant ones.

Mural in Bucyrus, Ohio

The small town of Bucyrus, Ohio, is really a beautiful place, but here I am taking a photo of the mural depicting the main street instead of the real thing. It’s relatively accurate, except for the two structures left and right supporting the arch.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Leaving Upper Sandusky this morning, I was still on the fence about stopping at the prison in Mansfield, Ohio, but as I crested a hill on the road that was passing it anyway, I was enthralled by the sight of it. With it opening in just a few minutes, I thought, “Why not throw them a $10 or whatever it costs, and I’ll race through it to not delay myself too much. Ha, this place costs $30 to visit, and that’s for a self-guided tour. The official name of this prison is the Ohio State Reformatory; it is also one of the filming locations of the movie Shawshank Redemption.

Room used in Shawshank Redemption at the Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

I’d imagine a lot of the visitors to this prison are here just for Shawshank Redemption; it is, after all, often the number one rated movie on IMDB ahead of The Godfather, The Dark Knight, Schindler’s List, The Lord of the Rings, Pulp Fiction, and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, yeah, it’s that popular. Seeing I was the first person in line to buy a ticket, I was ahead of everyone else and was able to grab photos at the location where the movie was shot, but I was also able to judge how others found the rest of the prison, which wasn’t very interesting as they all passed me at some point.

Room used in Shawshank Redemption at the Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

The only lingering was being done by the cardboard cutouts such as this one of James Whitmore’s character Brooks Hatlen, and those of Bob Gunton, who played Warden Norton, and Clancy Brown, who played hardass prison guard Captain Hadley. I also found myself lingering quite a bit, though not as long as the decaying ruin will. That stuff was nice, but things were about to get better exponentially.

Church at Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

While the outside of the prison drew my attention, walking up a short flight of wooden steps into the prison church took my breath away. At this point, I was certain things could only get better.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Oh, my holy wow. Prison is everything I could have hoped for, full of darkness, a foreboding, maybe even despair.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Yep, all buttons have been pushed, except for that flush mechanism on the wall above the toilet. I can only imagine the joys of learning to shit in the presence of your cellmate. Without cell phones for reading the news back in the day, you’d just open a conversation or maybe continue the one you were having without the need to excuse yourself while heading to the can for a dank bowel movement. Obviously, some of the joy in this experience would be lost when one considers life inside an all-metal tiny box called home, sometimes for an entire lifetime.

The old library at the Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Now, if living in a cold, solid-steel cage with another man who may have been guilty of whatever terrible deed the world wanted to hide wasn’t good enough for you, there was this library, which I think could have made the whole ordeal a little better. Consider the long afternoons lounging in the sumptuous wood-lined reading rooms of the library with all the classics and all those years to take them all in; seriously, this starts to look kind of dreamy.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Your new home even came with these classic spiral staircases, but thinking about this caged tube of men descending the stairs packed in tightly, I’d bet about anything that this would be a fart fest. Sure, that would be rank; then again, everyone would be splitting at the seams laughing as so-and-so gets royally fumigated.

Hospital at the Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

This was the hospital where the best care was available to prisoners when all things were considered, you know, such as their horrendous crimes that should have seen them tortured, but that’s beside the point. They were still human and required medical care, and this was where they got it.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

The examining stool.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Fresh air to purge the misfortune of getting sick in a place you probably didn’t want to get sick in. I have this idea that enemas were the cure-all for everything, thus dissuading inmates from seeking the services of a “doctor.”

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Somehow, this place wasn’t closed until 1990, by which time we understood smoking wasn’t good for you; hence, the stencil informing the prisoners that no smoking was allowed in the hospital.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

There’s just no way that this much decay is the result of the past 34 years. It makes me happy I don’t rust and wasn’t painted with lead paint.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

This is likely my favorite photo of those I shot in here. The idea of living in a tower of cages is revulsive, even if I was joking about things earlier. Even being a guard here would have been as close to living in hell as it gets. I have a big F-that for the idea of something like this being a career objective.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Cages in the mazes of a prison, where men not only try to escape their cells and the facility walls but are also likely trying to figure out a way to escape their minds.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

The architecture might be interesting, but the humanity is missing, gone, crushed under the fucked souls of those who would build such horrid dungeons.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Some of these photos might be iterations on a theme, but you can trust that I had to pare ten images from my list of favorites. Redundancy for some might be tedious, but these are my memories forever visualized and I’m telling you, I’ll never be able to see such things frequently enough.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

When entering the prison, I was admonished not to close cell doors because if I inadvertently locked myself in, it would be a $300 charge to cut me out, and I might be stuck in here for a few hours. That’s too bad because I would have loved to see the perspective of being in this hole and looking out through locked iron doors to better imagine what the prisoner saw on a day-to-day, hour-to-hour basis. In addition to not shutting doors, I was asked not to eat or lick the paint chips as they likely have lead in them. People have been witnessed doing just that.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

Two photos above, I was looking one way; this is looking in the other direction.

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

This was one of the cells in solitary confinement where no natural light falls. In some of the cells, solid steel doors blocked all light and were simply too dark to photograph. As it was, this photo took a lot of patience and bracing the camera against the rusting door frame. [Did you intentionally trigger my pareidolia with that face, John? Caroline]

The Ohio State Reformatory in Mansfield, Ohio

While thick with dirt, these mattresses appear to be authentic from the time prisoners lived here; I’d say the same might be true for the scratchy woolen blankets. After two hours and leaving a lot of photos unpublished, I’m done visiting the prison, reluctantly.

OH-511 near Ashland, Ohio

I’ve not yet grown accustomed to the tree-lined roads.

Amish farm on County Road 700 in Polk, Ohio

Amish farms are incredible-looking places. Again, I’m struck by the efficiency and effectiveness of the community in supporting these operations outside the world of tradition and modern tools, yet they survive and seem to thrive.

Pumpkins at an Amish farm on County Road 700 in Polk, Ohio

On another Amish farm across the street here on County Road 700 in Polk, Ohio, a family was selling gourds and pumpkins. While they’d probably survive the trip back across the United States, I’m not sure how Canadian customs would deal with us bringing three giant pumpkins into their country.

On OH-88 near Bristolville, Ohio

I’ve driven through some rain that arrived by the buckets, so heavy that I pulled over more than once. During one of those stops on OH-88 in Bristolville, I saw lightning strike and splinter a wooden utility pole in an impressive explosion and instantaneous thunder. That was it; now I was really scared. A mile down the road, after I got going during a lull, it started hammering down again. This time, I pulled into a fire station whose electricity was off and barely operational with the help of some minor power from a generator.

On OH-88 near Bristolville, Ohio

Last of the Ohio corn with hints of blue skies in the background.Tthe break in the weather wouldn’t last, but the corn continued.

Pennsylvania State Line near Kinsman, Ohio

Maybe because this is a tertiary road in the scheme of state line crossings, it only required this afterthought of a Welcome To Pennsylvania state sign simply asking us not to litter. Better than nothing, or as my grandfather Wise used to say, “Better than a stick in the eye.”

On PA-77 near Meadville, Pennsylvania

This was too random to let go by. I have to question out loud: Who reads German out here? Maybe the Amish, but aren’t they of some kind of Dutch heritage? [No John, the Amish are not Dutch, they are Deutsch, from the Pfalz region – Caroline] For you English speakers, it reads, “Wood is wonderful.”

On PA-77 near Blooming Valley, Pennsylvania

While the hills have been rolling off and on since yesterday, I seldom get to pull over on the road when there is no shoulder, jump out of the car with my hazard lights on, and snap a photo while standing in the middle of the street. Good thing there was just that Amish buggy a short ways down the road. He’d never be able to race up on me.

Sunset near Sugar Grove, Pennsylvania

The sun came out when necessary for photos. Otherwise, it rained or was so cloudy that any images would have been dull and gray. Sometimes, it feels like nature is working as a nudge to keep us going so we don’t miss the important stuff and are not sleeping in the car by the side of the road 100 miles from a hotel.

New York State Line near Sugar Grove, Pennsylvania

At the edge of dusk, I crossed into New York State, reaching Jamestown just a few miles from the state line, checked into a hotel, and had to settle for some generic fried cod instead of some incredible walleye or pike caught in a nearby lake. So it goes, this was never meant to be a culinary adventure, well, not yet.

Solo Across America – Day 6

Courthouse in Pontiac, Illinois on the famous Old Route 66

I pulled into Pontiac, Illinois, last night on the edge of town, as that’s where the cheaper hotels typically are located, right? Who knew I was in such a beautiful little town on the famous Old Route 66 – the Mother Road? The fog I woke to this morning was thick; you choose the saying that works for you to describe how heavy it was. After breakfast at a dingy place next to the road (not in this downtown area), I was on my way and experiencing corn in a new way: corn in the fog. Who knew that corn under these conditions would still look like corn? I was expecting marigolds. There was one point in my early morning corn delirium where, in the distance, I thought I could make out the Statue of Liberty, which had me in disbelief that it was corn and soybeans all the way between here and there.

Flowers on Highway 116 in Illinois

When I left Arizona, my criterion was to avoid larger roads; there was no intention or fixed ideas for finding amazing natural sights or historical areas, only the hope of being surprised by what I found on the small roads of America. Little did I know that I was entering a path of corn and soy. There are no regrets because I’ve gotten exactly what I bargained for: a trip across the country to see what I could see outside of expectation, come what would. Driving on freeways, I would have never left the pace of the big city, but out here, I’m witnessing the speed of the rural Midwest, which appears to be moving at about the same pace that flowers and corn grow.

Iroquois River near L'Erable, Illinois on Highway 52

I was on Highway 52 near L’Erable, Illinois, when I passed the Iroquois River.

Highway 52 in Illinois

The trees are changing the farther I go east, though much more corn would lie ahead.

Sheldon, Illinois

Passed a series of small towns: first up was Donovan, Illinois, with a population of 300. This being a presidential election season, you can rest assured that there is signage posted even in the smallest towns that love blending god and politics – we’ll leave it at that. Next up was Iroquois, the self-professed Town of Bunkum (nonsense). I’m here passing through Sheldon because in spite of my instructions to Google to avoid highways Google doesn’t realize that this includes four-lane divided highways that look a lot like freeways. So, I find country roads going in my general direction, adding 20 minutes here, 14 minutes there, and pretty soon, I’m able to add extra hours to my driving day due to some wild zig-zagging through farmland.

Indiana State Line on Highway 18

You see that road? It’s a quiet two-lane affair with soybeans growing over there; the corn is behind me. This is the Indiana State Line on State Route 18, middle of nowhere.

Corn on State Road 18 in Indiana

The promised corn.

State Road 18 in Indiana

Tree densities I’ve not seen in days; welcome to a changing landscape.

First fall colors on State Road 18 in Indiana

Oh, is that the first sign of fall colors starting to emerge or is it Homer Simpson merging into the trees?

Tippecanoe River at State Route 18 near Springboro, Indiana

I’m crossing over the shallow Tippecanoe River, still on State Route 18, near Springboro, Indiana.

Train Crossing on Country Road N 525 W near Delphi, Indiana

I passed through a beautiful small town called Delphi, which tells visitors that it played an important role in the Wabash and Erie Canal system that connected the waterways of Indiana with the Ohio River and the Great Lakes. I went looking for further information about that while writing this post, but I also came across this tidbit that most recently put Delphi, Indiana, on the map: it’s home of slain teens Abigail Williams and Liberty German whose murder case went unsolved for six years, likely a grisly affair.

Leaving town, I had no choice but to turn onto Highway 25, a divided highway. Nope, I wouldn’t have any of that, and within a mile, I turned onto State Route 218, adding 25 minutes to my drive time. I didn’t get far before I needed to turn left on County Road 525 W, but I missed it. I quickly turned around and found myself on an even smaller road. Noooo! A clever ploy by Google to get me back to Highway 25, the faster route. Damn it, Google, I’m not looking for fast, I want the opposite! While I was here, I thought this place amongst the corn was the perfect place for lunch. There I was, enjoying my lettuce-wrapped mortadella, when an approaching train whistle alerted me. I could see the crossing a little further up this remote road, so I raced over. The excitement of being out here never ends.

Wabash River near Peru, Indiana

Hardly an hour passes during waking hours that Caroline or I are not reaching out to one another. There are times when she’s busy putting out fires at work, or I don’t have phone signal, but sooner rather than later, a nudge offering a hug or expression of love is shared, keeping us connected during the day. With me now three time zones away, that might get difficult this evening, but the good news is that we are also now merely 48 hours from seeing each other again.

Amish couple in Monroe, Indiana

This Amish couple should be Caroline and me, sitting next to each other, moving at the speed a horse can pull us, my beard not gray yet, and Caroline rocking a bonnet. We’d ride our buggy into the sunset and sleep among the corn because life is an adventure, and love is grand.

Corn on State Route 124 in Indiana approaching Ohio

While I was in Monroe, Indiana, taking photos of Amish people who naturally don’t like being photographed, there was a sign nearby, the real reason I stopped, that showed the current price of soybeans and corn. I don’t know if this is a buying or selling price, but here you go: Soybeans are $9.63 per bushel. A bushel of beans weighs 60 pounds (27 kilos), and a bushel of corn weighing 35 pounds (16 kilos) goes for $3.36. Now consider that, on average, about 200 bushels of corn are produced on an acre of land. The ten states of the Great Plains and the Midwest that grow corn have about 65-80 million acres under cultivation, which include about 110,000 square miles of corn. Germany, in comparison, is about 137,000 square miles in size.

Ohio State Line in Willshire, Ohio on Highway 124

Welcome to Ohio on State Route 81 in the town of Willshire.

Courthouse in Van Wert, Ohio

I’ve joined the Lincoln Highway in Van Wert, Ohio; this is the Van Wert courthouse.

Miami & Erie Canal in Delphos, Ohio

In Delphos, Ohio, you can find remnants of the Miami & Erie Canal.

Bethel Church of Christ in Ada, Ohio

One is never far from the house of God when in America. This one is the Bethel Church of Christ in Ada, Ohio.

Courthouse in Upper Sandusky, Ohio

This concludes our travel day, not with another photo of corn but a spectacular bit of architecture in the Upper Sandusky, Ohio, courthouse. I learned at dinner that it was featured in the movie Shawshank Redemption. Tomorrow, I’ll pass through Mansfield, Ohio, where a prison used in that film can be found.

Mother and Son Going to Buffalo, NY – Day 13

Ohio

Millies Café – “Go a quarter-mile and turn right at the caution light, go about four miles” are the instructions we use to find breakfast. Nothing on the highway identifies the place. Good thing we arrived on Wednesday, according to the waitress, as on weekends it’s standing room only. If you were to see for yourself how sparse the local population is out here, you’d understand how popular this place is to bring people in from near and far.

Ohio

Before and after breakfast, we were dealing with somewhat heavy fog, which quickly burned off into a blistering heat combined with humidity conditions, leaving us feeling like we were in a tropical fishbowl. We sweat. The air conditioner vents in the car sweat. The air is sweating. Humidity is a nemesis and absolutely alien to someone who’s been living in that good old Arizona dry heat. Moving around causes each individual pore to sweat in a kind of torture. Seconds later, every square inch of clothing is damp, but it’s so hot that our clothes are not cooled by the breeze or fans blowing air in the car. We are so hot and humid that we start creating our own personal cloud of humidity. I think we will start raining upon ourselves.

Ohio

The Ohio River Valley in July is not only a nearly unbearable land of humidity but also laden with crops this time of year. From vineyards, corn, beans, and melons to tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplant, and tobacco, we are taking inventory of a cornucopia of produce here along the river.

Ohio

Towns come and go, none really stand out. The scenery is definitely the winner here until we make Manchester, Ohio, where we stop at a small winery called Moyer on the Ohio. As they also have a cafe on the premises we use the opportunity to have lunch. Mom also picked up four bottles of Ohio wine, and we were right back on the road.

Ohio

Our waitress recommended that we cross the river into Maysville, Kentucky, about 20 minutes southwest of the winery. She emphasized that we go to Old Washington in Maysville in particular.

Ohio

I don’t believe I’ll ever be able to just drive by an abandoned gas station, as there’s something fascinating about these places. My best guess about what the attraction is would be that my imagination conjures the sights and sounds of travelers from the past who are driving somewhere new. Not going to work or school but on a migrant journey following opportunity and chasing new horizons. Without the mass media, we have today, those travelers from a previous age would be venturing into a great unknown where every corner showed them the unexpected.

Those people were fleeing their own uncertainty and inability to deal with particular situations, hoping for a new start elsewhere. When I stopped at a house in ruin, there really wasn’t anything special about the chaos of the place that appeared ransacked following its previous inhabitants abandoning it, but there was one thing that stood out. While everything appears to be turned over the potholder above the stove looks untouched. The person who put that back up on its hook after removing dinner from the oven probably never thought that they’d never use it again.

There are certainly parallels between these rural abandonments and Buffalo, which makes me wonder about what places in America are next.

Kentucky

Great recommendation from the woman at the winery to visit Old Washington. This is where Harriet Beecher Stowe found some of the inspiration to write Uncle Tom’s Cabin after watching a slave auction at the local courthouse back in 1833.

Kentucky

Quite a few old buildings from the 1700s still stand on Old Main Street; I only wish we had more time to visit. The truth is that we had enough time, but the hot weather and humidity were too oppressive for Mom’s comfort, so she waited in the car with the a/c on while I jumped out and grabbed a few photos.

Kentucky

There’s a lot of history in this small town I hope to find again someday in the future, but for now, we are leaving.

Kentucky

Back across the river in Ohio, just before Ripley, we stop to take a photo of a houseboat that is undergoing renovation. Seeing the owner, Mom now has the wherewithal to exit the car. I see how it is; if it’s something my mom wants, she’ll go the extra mile. She asks Bob, the owner of a local upholstery shop, about his labor of love. He’s been working on this aluminum 42-footer for four years now and is almost ready to start putting it back together.

Kentucky

Ripley itself is one of the towns Mom and I swear we must come back to. Sometimes, in the most unlikely of places, the most wonderful surprises await you. Today, it happened multiple times. Driving through Ripley, Mom spots an Easy Step shoe outlet and insists on visiting. Twenty minutes later, with five pairs of shoes and a new purse, she emerges to me, napping in the running car.

Kentucky

A few more miles down the road, and we’re aiming to cross the river back into Kentucky. Our $5 ferry ride has us landing in Augusta, Kentucky, our next amazing surprise location. Not far after leaving Augusta, we are on some of the twistiest roads known to mankind. A light rain starts to fall, but only for a minute before it starts to pummel the earth. Darkness descends in midday, and lightning strikes not more than 300 feet in front of us, making Mom grab my arm so quickly and tightly that I thought I’d jerk the van off the road.

Kentucky

The rain comes and goes while the road continues to twist and turn, zig and zag and we finally return to the road we were supposed to be on. The next stop was at a gas station for the facilities. I ask about a good place for home cooking and the attendant is quick to tell us of Mr. Ed’s in Verona. About 10 miles up the highway and then about 3 miles west, we will find Verona. One wrong turn, and we took the long way down a narrow road, which proved nice for photos but added a few miles to the journey. At the intersection of Mudlick and Glencoe Roads, we see that the girl meant Mr. Herb’s in Verona; there could not be another restaurant in this tiny village.

Kentucky

The food is excellent. The starter is fried green tomatoes; we agree they are the best we have ever had. I ordered the cod, for which they are locally famous, and Mom went for the catfish. For sides, Mom has more fried green tomatoes, and for me, the green beans. Both of our dishes are great, but I would have preferred the catfish. For dessert, we nearly have coronaries before reaching the front door after gobbling down a deep-fried slice of apple pie with ice cream and caramel sauce, an “oh my god!” experience. Feeling like we’re falling behind schedule, although it’s a loose one for sure, we decide on taking the dreaded freeway to shave some time off the driving requirements.

John Wise in Indiana

The idea was to beeline it to Madison, Indiana, and then take Highway 56 across the state as we continue in our effort to bypass any major cities and minimize freeway driving. Right, enough energy to go shoe shopping and eat deep-fried apple pie, but it’s too hot, and her feet hurt, so I have to get out and snap a selfie of myself. I should have worn donuts on my shoulders to get my mom to follow me around.

Indiana

Does that look like Kentucky to you? As far as I could tell, the barge was hauling coal.

Indiana

In Old Madison, we almost ruined our plans. This place must be one of a small handful of absolutely perfect places in America. I had said Harbor Springs in Michigan would be in the top three, and Monterey, California, would probably be there too; that leaves Madison to round out the list. I’ll have to give this more thought and see just what my top 10 favorite American cities would be. I suppose I would also want to include Canandaigua, New York. While I’m at it, throw in Apalachicola, Florida, so there it is a beginning to my all-time favorite cities in the United States.

Indiana

We talk of staying the night after spotting a riverside motel that, for only $59, begs us to stay. Our loved ones back home are begging us to return, so we decide it’s better to get a few more miles down the road before calling it a day.

Indiana

Only 75 more miles were driven before we were too tired to continue. We made it to Paoli, Indiana, but didn’t quite find what we were looking for in accommodations. In French Lick, we stop at the Lane Motel grabbing a nice little room for about $57.

Mother and Son Going to Buffalo, NY – Day 12

Pennsylvania

Breakfast starts the day at a little café called Skyjet located at the ‘top of the hill’ right here in Tionesta. Nice place with average food, not bad at all, just not outstanding.

Pennsylvania

Our drive is taking us through the Allegheny National Forest and mostly along the Allegheny River. The road twists and turns for quite a long time. We zig and zag, heading toward the western edge of Pennsylvania. Our goal is to stay in rural settings as much as possible as we aim to find the Ohio River somewhere out in front of us.

Pennsylvania

Countryside ruins hold intrigue as I wonder about the lives that occurred within these walls and consider the lost dreams as the former inhabitants pulled up roots and moved down the road to start over. On the other hand, urban ruins are loaded with the bad feelings of people who may have never had ambitions and were simply beaten down by the system. For me, they are two sides of tragedy but one I never want to witness firsthand as I don’t believe the latter really ever aims for a fresh start.

Pennsylvania

By the time we reach Oil City, Pennsylvania, it’s time to take a hard left to aim south. The sky is cloudy but does not appear to be threatening us with imminent rain. The humidity is almost overwhelming. Everything in the car is damp, everything we wear is damp, and sweat continuously drips, dampening our hopes of drying out. Our escape from the heat of the Arizona summer has been less than effective, futile even. The next day’s weather report tells us to expect more of the same. Caroline informs us it’s over 120 ‘real’ degrees in Phoenix, not the reported 117 degrees.

Pennsylvania

Through farms and forests, we crawl along. Finding elderflowers in Eldersville, Pennsylvania, seemed poetic. West of there, we enter West Virginia at a tiny border crossing that apparently doesn’t deserve a Welcome to West Virginia sign. Our first town is Follansbee where we stumble upon a bakery; not much left, though, we leave with a still-hot blackberry pie. Don’t think for a second we left with a slice; we left with the whole thing.

Wellsburg, West Virginia, is a well-maintained, beautiful village kept alive by the steel industry and coal-generated power. Lunch was at a small Main Street restaurant with a great homemade chicken dumpling soup. Their chicken pot pie was the daily special; I went for it while Mom had a Philly cheesesteak. Steel and coal are still alive here, and the town is better for it. Wellsburg is impeccable.

Pennsylvania

We remain on the West Virginia side of the Ohio River as we meander further south for another hour or two of curves and hills. Passing the south side of Wheeling, we cross over the river, landing in Ohio. More forests and farms dot the landscape along this side of the Ohio River.

Pennsylvania

It is a slow day of driving for us and by the time we start approaching Belpre, Ohio, we are ready for dinner. I know you must be thinking, “Jeez, these two are eating their way across America.” To an extent, that is true, but since leaving Wellsburg, hours and hours have passed.

Ohio

We see that Parkersburg, West Virginia, is bigger than Belpre and figure there are better dining options over there. So we pay the toll to cross the bridge and, at the toll booth ask an elderly guy where’s the best place to get catfish. He recommends that we go back up Route 7 over in Ohio, where we just came from, to a place called Catfish Heaven. Great, we make a U-turn that takes a mile to figure out. We pay the toll to return over the bridge and head back up Route 7.

Four or five miles, just as the guy told us. There it is, except it is called Catfish Paradise. I should note I know this is the right place because before committing to this backtracking, I stopped at a 7/11 to ask the cashier for confirmation of the location. I explained that my mom and I wanted some catfish and that the guy at the toll booth told us about Catfish Heaven; she nodded in agreement and confirmed that the place is only 4 or 5 miles north.

Ohio

We miss the turn but find a middle-of-the-road spot to make a U-turn that was probably only supposed to be used by law enforcement – hey, I’m a tourist! We see fishermen around the roadside little lake and think, wow, this must be a catch-and-eat fresh kind of place. Oh, NO, it’s not! This is not a restaurant. This is a catfish farm with no onsite cook waiting to batter our fresh catch of the day and throw some hot sauce and lemon at us.

I’m sure that this is some kind of joke played on tourists, knowing we wanted fried fish, not swimming fish. Mom is cackling like a chicken; I’m a bit annoyed at wasting the 20 minutes, seventy cents in tolls, and having to listen to Mom bust a gut for the next 10 minutes.

Ohio

Defeated we decide to skip our hunt for fish and keep on driving, certain we’ll find something soon.

Ohio

Out on the Ohio Scenic Byway just enjoying the day.

Ohio

Lucky us as one of our encounters with a local person, had recommended that we leave Highway 7 and take Route 124 instead. We are now on even more rural lands with no services, no hotels, no restaurants, and a detour. Tomato fields, bell peppers, corn, eggplants, chilies, beans, and more tomatoes dot the landscape here near the Ohio River.

The urge to nab a few of the red ripe tomatoes is almost too much to bear, but Mom shoves a heap of guilt on me that this would be stealing. It would be sampling, and there is no one roadside to sell us any. We drive on.

Ohio

With starvation setting in, we are now wishing we’d grabbed a couple of those catfish that could be turned into sushi instead of facing death. That Bocce Club pizza we bought a few days ago and sat on the backseat for a day or so would come in handy about now, and we’re both certain it would still be great. Dreams of Perry’s ice cream overwhelm us as we cruise through this food desert where the uncertainty of our next meal is torturing us.

Ohio

Beautiful river scenery and tiny villages go by until we reach Pomeroy, the largest town we have seen in hours. So large is Pomeroy that it has a McDonalds, a KFC, and a Wendy’s. It is the Wild Horse Café, though, that gets our vote for dinner.

Ohio

We are sitting riverside at sunset for dinner. Our server brings over some tortilla chips with salsa that is surprisingly really good. Waiting on our entrees we have this great view of the glowing clouds reflecting in the Ohio River. Our lodging for the evening is also in Pomeroy at the Meigs Motel. More of the Ohio River awaits us in the morning.

America – Day 5

Hopewell Culture National Historical Park in Chillicothe, Ohio

We are 2,361 miles from home, and it’s 34 degrees out this morning with ice on our windows. Our first stop is at the Hopewell Cultural Historic Park which features 23 mounds built almost 2,000 years ago right here in what would become Chillicothe, Ohio. The Hopewell people thrived in this area from about 200 BC to AD 500. In the desert, it’s a rare day that we see fog, but this morning, there’s a thin layer over the mounds and a bit more drifting over the nearby Scioto River.

Fog out over the farm near the Scioto river in Ohio

These are the kind of views we live for, well, these and a million others. We’re not far from Laurelville, where we met and talked briefly with a guy who collects hornet nests as a hobby. We’d never seen one before and found them quite interesting, but why someone would collect them, we didn’t know. He also makes apple cider, which is why stopped in the first place. Along the way, we dipped in at Hocking Hills State Park for a pit stop, unaware of what amazing spectacles were hidden in the park. Someday, we must return to Hocking Hills State Park: MUST!

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Nelsonville Brick Plant in Nelsonville, Ohio

Caroline and I agree this is one of the worst photos we’ve ever taken of ourselves, but it’s the only one we have with the kiln while visiting the Nelsonville Brick Plant. This place was built back in 1877 and closed in 1940.

Downtown Nelsonville, Ohio

I feel like we’ve landed on the real Main Street America, seeing downtown Nelsonville.

Waterfalls on the Muskingum river in McConnelsville, Ohio

This is part of the McConnelsville, Ohio, lock and dam project on the Muskingum River. Back in another age, this place was plied by steamboats. Out on the water, away from the falls, fishermen in small boats can be seen enjoying the day, hopefully as much as we are.

Roadside somewhere in Ohio

This photo was taken somewhere along State Route 60. We are traveling roughly south-easterly toward Marietta, Ohio.

A barn with "Mail Pouch Tobacco" emblazoned on it just north of Marietta, Ohio on State Route 60

This was our first encounter with the “Mail Pouch Tobacco” brand. Turns out that this or a slight variation is emblazoned on barns throughout the area. This one was just north of Marietta, Ohio, as seen from State Route 60.

Caroline Wise in the wheelhouse of a steamboat in Marietta, Ohio

Notice the strict pose from the German after reading the sign, “DO NOT TOUCH ANY CONTROLS PLEASE.” Caroline was not going to be accused of violating international law and being a bad steward of travelers’ diplomacy by acting out of line. This was taken while we were visiting an old steamboat at the Ohio River Museum in Marietta, Ohio.

Fish in the Muskingame river in Marietta, Ohio

As an added attraction, you get to feed carp with bread next to the boat. They get downright greedy! Right after I took this photo, the fish asked, “Why you take my photo, human?”

Knowlton Covered Bridge in Monroe County, Ohio

We took quite a bit of quality time to explore this little corner where the Knowlton Covered Bridge still stands. It was built back in 1887, is 192 feet long, and is only open to pedestrians.

Welcome to West Virginia state sign over the highway

Another one of these locations where we won’t be stopping for a selfie in front of the “Welcome To Our State” signs. This sign even has its own cool bridge, so we get over the disappointment quickly as we drive under this big green arch. For the sake of knowing precisely where we are at this juncture, we crossed the bridge on State Route 2 between Dilles Bottom, Ohio, and Moundsville, West Virginia. On the radio, we are listening to some bluegrass from the Jolly Brothers.

Entering Pennsylvania

More welcoming from the front seat of our speeding car. All state borders should have a pullout for selfies. Vote for it. Welcome to Pennsylvania.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania at dusk

Pittsburgh at dusk as we are heading for parts north of here.

Selfie of Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to New York state sign

Five days to make it to New York. It must be due to my being born here that I was drawn to get here sooner rather than later.

Dunkirk, New York

Before we got our first look at Lake Erie here in Dunkirk, New York, we stopped in Ripley for dinner at the Plummer’s Tavern. We tried the lemon fish with coleslaw and would return if we were to travel up this way again.

The giant doll in front of Valvo's Candies in Silver Creek, New York

Not exactly the kind of thing you might want to see when you’ve been out on the road for the better part of 16 hours, but there she stood, “The killer doll girl from the 50s – Dolly Dimples.” Not to besmirch this almost famous roadside attraction, but it did make us ask, WTF is this? Turns out she’s connected to Valvo’s Candies in Silver Creek, New York, and yes, her name really is Dolly Dimples. The next stop is Buffalo, New York – my birthplace.