Buffalo Memories – Day 3

Love Canal in Buffalo, New York

My cousin Brian Marynowski is our tour guide today. Our first stop was at Love Canal, which used to be a thriving neighborhood here in Buffalo until buried toxic waste started seeping into basements and bubbling up in areas where kids played. Ultimately, the contaminated area was evacuated, and attempts to remediate the place were undertaken, starting about 30 years ago. It was just a few years ago that Love Canal was moved off the Superfund site list, but I doubt anyone will be living here along these decaying streets again in my lifetime.

Niagara Falls in Buffalo, New York

Water spilling over rocks to form waterfalls is so much more than a simple description. The roar of the plummeting waters with rising mists catching the sun to produce countless rainbows reminds us of the force that water is when it’s not sitting in a pool or lake, just playing home to some fish. Our second time here, and still, we’ll not be venturing out on the river below that takes visitors to the foot of Niagara Falls, but one day we’ll get out there.

Caroline Wise, Brian Marynowski, and John Wise at Niagara Falls in Buffalo, New York

That’s Brian Marynowski between us and the city of Niagara Falls, Canada, behind us. As where Buffalo is in a state of decay, the city across the river is thriving. I think some of the differentiating characteristics between the neighbors was that one embraced change and diversity while the other, afraid of losing their blue-collar past, held onto ideas of how things should stay the way they were and that it was everyone else’s fault their city was faltering.

Our Lady of Victory Basilica in Buffalo, New York

This beautiful corner in Buffalo is Our Lady of Victory Basilica, which is also referred to as Father Baker’s.

Our Lady of Victory Basilica in Buffalo, New York

Inside, Our Lady of Victory compares with many of the cathedrals of Europe.

Schwabl's Roast Beef in Buffalo, New York

This amazing temple to the divine Beef on Weck should be considered a holy shrine as they are not only the creators of this Buffalonian delicacy but have been a fixture in this city since 1837. This was where we had lunch, even though Brian insisted there was somewhere better. I closed my ears to that argument and didn’t note the address so I could remain a purist and maintain my loyalty to the one and only Schwabl’s.

Mount Olivet Cemetery in Buffalo, New York

The visit to Mount Olivet Cemetery was an unexpected surprise as I’d not previously considered that many of my relatives found their final resting place here in Buffalo. The cemetery is located at 4000 Elmwood Ave.

Robert Knezetic grave at Mount Olivet Cemetery in Buffalo, New York

Here lies my paternal great-grandfather Robert Knezetic, born Blasius, who was father to my grandmother Amelia Wise.

Lillian "Luba" Knezetic grave at Mount Olivet Cemetery in Buffalo, New York

His wife was Lillian, also known as Luba; she was born in Croatia as Louisa Priezula.

John A. Wise grave at Mount Olivet Cemetery in Buffalo, New York

This is my paternal grandfather, John Alexander Wise. He was a giant in my eyes, but I later came to understand that he was an angry and raging man who lent that quality to my father, who, in turn, tried to let me inherit the trait. I hope that the ugliness in this bloodline dies with me.

Amelia Wise grave at Mount Olivet Cemetery in Buffalo, New York

This was my dear grandmother and a woman who certainly loved her grandchildren. She endured a very hard life of deprivations, mostly created by her husband, my grandfather. Her health started to deteriorate in the late 1970s, and she passed away at the age of only 64.

Jacob Marynowski and Jonathan Marynowski at 109 Delta Road in Buffalo, New York

To finish off our second full day in Buffalo, Aunt Lillian prepared a picnic BBQ for Brian, Jonathan, Jacob, Caroline, and myself. Sadly, I wasn’t able to snap a photo of my favorite aunt as she’s not been feeling well with her diabetes. This dreaded disease is what killed her father and her brother, and now it’s her nemesis, too. Hung out talking for the rest of the day enjoying the nostalgia of lives lived in the City of Light – Buffalo, New York.

Lafayette and Niagara – Day 2

109 Delta Road in Buffalo, New York

Back in Phoenix, Arizona, we would be fast approaching our first 100-degree day, while here in the Northeast, spring is just now starting to peek through the long winter’s doldrums of gray and cold. That red POS in the driveway is our rental car; we loathe that thing and wish we could exchange it for a normal car.

Anderson's Custard in Buffalo, New York

For some silly reason or other, we didn’t take a single note for today or tomorrow, so details are obviously lost, but suffice it to say the majority of our time was spent with family. My aunt Lillian and cousin Brian have to work, so Caroline and I will wander Buffalo until they are done. While we had breakfast with them, we couldn’t resist the indulgence of going for a big fat cup of custard from Anderson’s before we got serious about our exploration.

Ellicott Creek in Buffalo, New York

There is no plan on what to visit other than just trying to enjoy the nice weather. My shortsightedness tells me I need not worry about photos as it was two years ago that I captured everything I needed to when I visited with my mom. Maybe I should have considered the improvement in camera quality or that the weather is nicer, but then again it’s great to just wander around without any demands.

Niagara River in Buffalo, New York

We slowed our usual pace to take a walk along the Niagara River as the day was simply beautiful and deserving of appreciation.

Fowler's Chocolates in Buffalo, New York

I grew up on Fowler’s orange chocolates, especially the ones that are shaped like buffalos. Even living in Arizona, I was able to maintain this connection as my mom would order a bunch of them every Easter; so seeing we are right here in Buffalo and the memory crept into my head, it seemed like there couldn’t be too much sugar in the day, and so here we are.

Santasiero's Restaurant in Buffalo, New York

We weren’t away from the house all that long before my aunt was done with her bit of work, and we were able to spend the afternoon talking. When Brian and his boys, Johnathan and Jacob, joined us, it was time for the six of us to go for dinner. Our destination was a place I’d not been since I was a little boy: Santasiero’s Italian Restaurant at 1329 Niagara Street. This place has been a Buffalo staple since 1921.

Caroline Wise at Santasiero's Restaurant in Buffalo, New York

After way too much coaxing, Caroline finally agreed to wear the bib. You would have thought we were asking her to have a root canal the way she fought the strong-armed tactics deployed for our own selfish entertainment. I am certain that nearly everyone in my family has worn a bib at this establishment at one time or another and now Caroline joins that long tradition.

Lake Erie, Pennsylvania – Day 1

Leaving Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Airport

Sonal was kind enough to pick us up this morning at 6:30 to bring us to Sky Harbor. Our non-stop flight left Phoenix just after 9:00 a.m. and arrived in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, at nearly 4:00 p.m. I had booked the flight after looking at the number of stops, car rental rates, and airfares at a dozen airports back east. The cheapest flight was into Newark, New Jersey, but that came with the highest rental car rate; Chicago was almost as bad. Columbus, Ohio, and Pittsburgh had the best combination of prices, but Pittsburgh was closer to Niagara Falls – where we were headed. Airfare was a reasonable $235 each round trip, and the rental car for two weeks was a mere $316 with Budget. Once landed, we picked up the car, which was unfortunately upgraded to a fire-engine red Mustang, and were soon on our way into the city.

Caroline Wise at Primanti Brothers in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Our first stop was at the world-famous Primanti Bros. in downtown Pittsburgh for one of their incredible sandwiches. The Primanti sandwich features your choice of meat, egg, or cheese, which is then stacked high with coleslaw and french fries on thick Italian bread – they are yummy. Caroline opted for the Colossal Fish & Cheese and I the Corned Beef & Cheese, though we did have to ask the waitress why the menu lists a #2 best seller but not the #1. She says, “It’s because beer is the number 1 best seller here!”

Sunset over Lake Erie in Pennsylvania

The road out of Pittsburgh is littered with roadkill. It wouldn’t be so bad if it weren’t for the stink that goes along with so many dead and rotting animals. At some point, we start keeping track of the zoo outside our stupid red car, which includes some of the following: badger or raccoon (difficult to identify in its current state), a small furry grey thing, two deer with big stink, another furry thing, skunk, something unseen but its aroma reached us easily, bird, bird, furry things, raccoon, possum, something too flat to identify, more deer.

Leaving the turnpike (at the time, we had no idea why a turnpike is a turnpike), we were leaving the death zone and heading for the beautiful lake at sunset zone. Regarding this road nomenclature, I later learned that back in the day, a “pike” was a stick blocking a path. Upon paying a toll, the pike was “turned” up, thus allowing the person to pass the barrier.

Caroline Wise and John Wise entering New York State

We stayed along Lake Erie on Highway 5 through the rest of Pennsylvania to the New York Stateline. Taking photos is becoming a chore as getting in and out of this horrible Ford Mustang that we are close to hating takes an inordinate amount of work. The seatbelt requires a reach-around that demands contortionist skills. The window frame was not designed to rest your arm on it. The passenger seat sits so low and cannot be raised enough for my 5-foot 4-inch wife to see over the hood, which is difficult for me, too. The emergency brake handle was placed strategically in a spot to ensure you’d never want to rest your leg against the center console.

Sunset in Western New York

Passing through Ripley, New York, Caroline recognizes Plummer’s Tavern and points it out, reminding me that we’d eaten there back on our year 2000 cross-country road trip. Our destination tonight is Buffalo.

Valvo’s Candies in Silver Creek, New York

At the time, we were shocked to see this again as, in our memories, Dolly Dimples the Killer Doll was somewhere back in Pennsylvania, not right here at Valvo’s Candies in Silver Creek, New York.

Bocce Club Pizza from Buffalo, New York

While it was almost 10:00 p.m. when we pulled up to 109 Delta Road here in Buffalo to spend the night with my aunt Lillian, it wasn’t too late for her to help us get a pizza from Bocce Club Pizza from around the corner on Baily Avenue. Getting our fill of the world’s best pizza and catching up a bit on the intervening seven years since the last visit, we were off to sleep. It’s been a busy travel day after nearly 18 hours of being in motion.