Statue of Liberty

Ellis Island in New York

The old Central Railroad of New Jersey Terminal now stands as a monument to the millions of immigrants that once passed through here, boarding trains that took them to new destinations. For more than 100 years until 1967, this train station was a bustling place; today, it’s a reminder of those long ago days when we used to welcome immigrants.

Ellis Island in New York

The old CRNJ Terminal connects to the ferry that takes visitors out to Ellis Island, and back to the mainland, so much as the location once did, people branch out, leaving for destinations not only across America but home to the countries they came from.

Caroline Wise, John Wise, and Jutta Engelhardt visiting Ellis Island in New York

For me, this visit holds some amount of special meaning because 104 years ago, on June 14, 1905, two of my paternal great-grandparents landed here after leaving Ozalj, Croatia, onboard the Grosser Kurfurst, which hailed from Bremen, Germany.

Ellis Island in New York

My great-grandparents Blasius (Robert) and Luba (Lillian) settled in Buffalo, New York, and proceeded to have seven children: Bob, John, George, Frank, Amelia, and twins Anne and Mike. Amelia was my grandmother; she passed away more than 20 years ago. My great-aunt Anne lives and still works in Santa Barbara, California, she’s in her 80’s now.

Ellis Island in New York

Back when my family arrived, these facilities were barely a dozen years old and must have been a place of incredible wonder as the tallest and brightest city they would have ever seen was just across the Hudson River, and in short order, they would transfer to the train station we visited as tourists today. They would have to find their way into a country that didn’t speak their language, didn’t have the foods they were familiar with, nor really cared how they got along. They were free to figure out a new life for themselves.

Ellis Island in New York

It’s strange to think how close we really are to our past. Might my great-grandfather have washed his hands and face right here at one of these basins? When we approach the places our own ancestors might have walked through and touch things their lives touched, it would be nice if we could recognize a view that would allow us to connect a little better with the humanity of those who strode through our world long before us. Too often, I feel like we experience our existence in a vacuum of individuality with no foundational anchors that connect us to our ancestors and forefathers.

Ellis Island in New York

In the years Ellis Island welcomed immigrants into the lands of the United States, 12 million people used these facilities. To think that my family members stood within these walls of Ellis Island, waiting their turn to see if they would be admitted to America, and their success in doing so has made all of what I know, all of my life, possible.

Ellis Island in New York

It wasn’t likely that one of my ancestors left a drawing or message on the walls of Ellis Island, but their children gave rise to those who would have children who became my parents, and now here I am leaving messages, images, and various thoughts and memories on this age’s virtual walls.

Ellis Island in New York

These doodles and signatures were discovered during renovations and were preserved in order to share what was left behind. How will our electronic missives survive and be discovered a couple of hundred years from now?

Ellis Island in New York

Certainly, a liminal space that was not created to be inviting, but then again, I’ve probably watched too many movies that have borrowed this motif to feed the idea of creepy.

Ellis Island in New York

The threshold of a room, the threshold of a country, or the threshold of a mind are all potential barriers over which people who long for something extraordinary will have to cross. America’s love-hate relationship with immigration is one of brutality and amazing success that produces a lot of mixed feelings and is a subject that can’t be adequately looked at while writing a blog post covering a variety of topics or while out being a tourist.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt visiting Ellis Island in New York

Oh yeah, Hot Frankfurters for 2¢ each, this was quite the deal.

Ellis Island in New York

We are heading back to the ferry to another island.

Statue of Liberty in New York

After my reflective walk in the processing center, we set our sights on Liberty Island.

Statue of Liberty in New York

Yikes, the long lines to visit the interior of Lady Liberty herself were extraordinary. Another failure of planning as reservations should have been made.

Statue of Liberty in New York

A long drive north was awaiting us, plus Caroline and I knew we’d be back in the not-too-distant future as about six short weeks, on the 4th of July, the Crown of Statue of Liberty would re-open for the first time in nearly ten years. Maybe we could visit then, but for today, it’s out of the question.

We had to content ourselves with walking around her, posing in front of her, and seemingly all too quickly, leaving her. A quick tidbit of trivia: the pedestal behind Jutta and Caroline was a point of contention back in the late 19th century and almost derailed France’s gift from finding a home in New York, but thanks to Joseph Pulitzer and his efforts, the pedestal was funded, and the rest is history.

Statue of Liberty in New York

Goodbye, Lady Liberty…

New York City

…and goodbye, New York City.

Owego, New York

With no less than seven hours of driving ahead of us today, we didn’t take much time for sightseeing along the way, but a sign here in Owego, New York, directed my attention to this ice cream stand featuring Perry’s Ice Cream that screamed STOP!

South of Ithaca, New York

We are passing by the Finger Lakes; this photo was taken just south of Ithaca.

On the shore of Cayuga Lake, one of the Finger Lakes in New York

It was already after mid-day as we were passing Cayuga Lake on its western shore.

Cayuga, New York

We were stopping near the small town of Seneca Falls for gasoline, and sure, it had only been 90 minutes since we had those ice creams, but come on, this is bacon ice cream. What in the world might bacon ice cream taste like? The obvious answer would be a resounding thud of duh, well, bacon, of course. But it wasn’t as bad or weird as it sounded. The bacon was cooked in a maple syrup base and that was used for flavoring the ice cream. Yes, there were bacon chunks in it, but seriously, it was pretty good. You, too, can try bacon ice cream; just go to the Cayuga Sugar Shack on Route 89 and brace yourself.

Waterloo, New York

Waterloo, New York, turns out to be the birthplace of Memorial Day.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise somewhere east of Buffalo, New York

Every so often, we need to pull over and stretch our legs, and a nearby horse in a pasture looking like it needs visitors is even more reason to pull over at that moment.

Sunset approaching Buffalo, New York

Our hopes of arriving in Buffalo, New York, for a sunset view of Niagara Falls, were being dashed as between bacon ice cream and too many stops to look at horses, streams, farms, the countryside, and finally, the sunset, it would be dark by the time we arrived in the city of my birth.

Jutta Engelhardt at Bocce Club Pizza in Buffalo, New York

As we were reaching Buffalo, we called Bocce Club Pizza to see if they’d still be open when we arrived, and sure enough, we had plenty of time. They don’t close until midnight on Friday and Saturday. We ordered the largest monster of a pizza we could to ensure we’d have a ton of cold pizza for the drive south the day after tomorrow. Pizza from Bocce Club is the best cold pizza one could ever dream of eating.

New York City in a Day

Streets of New York City

An ambitious day was planned so that, if all went well, we would see a big chunk of New York City over the next hours. After all, this might be Jutta’s one and only trip to NYC. We began at 6:30 a.m. by boarding the subway at Pavonia station and heading to 33rd St., where we transferred trains going north to 72nd St. From there, we walked up Broadway to 80th St. to pick up breakfast at the famous H&H Bagels.

Central Park New York City

We wasted no time with a sit-down breakfast, we were eating our bagels and drinking coffee as we walked over to Central Park West and 81st St., entering the west side of Central Park.

The Belvedere Castle in Central Park New York City

Forty-five minutes later, we exited Central Park and were on 5th Ave. next to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which wasn’t open yet, so a visit would have to wait for a return trip. We boarded a southbound bus getting off at 50th St.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Rockefeller Center in front of The Empire State Building in New York City

In planning this vacation back east, I had to choose wisely the places that would best convey a sense of having somewhat properly visited enough iconic places that my mother-in-law would earn bragging rights back home in Germany that “she’d been there and done that.” The bus dropped us right at 30 Rockefeller Plaza, where we rode an elevator to the Top of the Rock – Rockefeller Center. That’s the Empire State Building behind Caroline and me.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on Rockefeller Center in front of Central Park, New York City

The view from the other side was perfect, and to those anonymous people on the web who wrote we should visit the Empire State Building at night and the Rockefeller Center in the daytime, we offer a big appreciative “THANK YOU!”

St. Patricks Cathedral in New York City

Across the street, we briefly visited St. Patrick’s Cathedral. While Pope Paul VI, Pope John Paul II, and Pope Benedict XVI have all held mass here, sadly, there will be no sermon led by the holy pontiff today.

Rockefeller Center in New York City

That’s the Rockefeller Center building standing 850 feet (259 meters) over New York City.

Grand Central Station in New York City

From there, we walked over to Grand Central Terminal to learn about the history of this landmark and snap a few photos. It is 10:45 as we leave Grand Central on the subway, going towards SoHo for some lunch.

Jutta Engelhardt about to enjoy lunch at Lombardi's Pizza in New York City

Another tip from the web, arrive at Lombardi’s Pizzeria early if you want to miss the crowds. We arrived at 32 Spring St at 11:15, but they don’t open till 11:30! Luckily, that didn’t stop them from inviting us in early, offering us drinks, and taking our orders. It must have been 11:35 when our pizza arrived, and sure enough, it lived up to its reputation as one of the best pizzas in America. Lombardi’s is considered America’s first pizzeria!

Caroline Wise at a subway station in New York City

Back into the subway as we need to keep moving quickly, and it’s doubtful our feet will be able to drag us over all the miles of the city I have planned for us to see.

Leaving the subway in New York City

Next stop, Wall Street.

Wall Street in New York City

After photos in front of the Stock Exchange and a quick walk around this very crowded corner of NYC, we tried visiting Trinity Church which was having mass at the time and restricted to those wanting to attend the service.

Jutta Engelhardt with a NYC policeman

No problem, we started walking east to our next big stop, but first, a quick photo with one of New York’s Finest.

Streets of New York City

Nope, we’re not there yet. Maybe we should have grabbed a taxi?

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the Brooklyn Bridge in New York City

Finally, here we are at the Brooklyn Bridge! We walked across the full length of the Brooklyn Bridge on its old wooden planks, over the traffic below us, and into Brooklyn Heights. It took about 45 minutes to mosey across, with many a pause for the mother-in-law to rest and admire the views.

Brooklyn, New York

Over here in the green, quiet Brooklyn Heights, it was like entering another world.

Brooklyn, New York

After getting our fill of the world-famous brownstones, we sat in the park for a while resting our feet and listening to the kids play before walking along a few more of the streets enjoying the architecture. As we approached the river we had a nice view of the city to which we would soon return via subway under the East River.

Jutta Engelhardt at the South Street Seaport in New York City

Once back on the Manhattan side, we visited the South Street Seaport, had ice cream, and began the long walk back toward Wall Street.

Streets of New York City

This city will not be experienced by taxi, bus, or subway; you must get out among the throngs of residents and visitors in order to best feel the vibe that seems to extend into all corners and side streets.

Streets of New York City

In 1793, this former mansion was built by James Watson, the first Speaker of the New York State Assembly. Following the Civil War, the house was purchased by Irish author Charlotte Grace O’Brien, who converted the property into the Church of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary, which houses the Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann Bayley Seton. It’s great that New York has been able to preserve some of its heritage as one of the most modern cities took shape on this island.

Streets of New York City

Then, just a couple of hundred feet away, the city looks different. No matter how much we’ll see today, it can never be enough to get a proper introduction to this dense city for my mother-in-law but it’s better than never having been to New York City.

The Statue of Liberty as seen from Battery Park in New York City

At Battery Park, it was near sunset and 6:00 p.m. as we sat down on a park bench at the riverside to look out on the Statue of Liberty. We are tired; our feet, which have not recovered from our long walks in Washington D.C., are mighty beat. We debate if we are going to keep our dinner reservation or just grab a quick bite from a streetside vendor. Fortunately for us, we muster the gumption to move on and keep that reservation. At Bowling Green subway station we board the train going north.

Jutta Engelhardt leaving the subway in New York City

We disembark at Canal St. Station near Chinatown and walk to Mulberry Street in Little Italy. We are thrilled to be here.

Little Italy in New York City

There must be more restaurants along this street than nearly anywhere else in America. Sidewalks are taken over by tables and diners who watch the throngs of people walk down the center of the street looking for a bite to eat for themselves or maybe just to gawk at the crowds.

Little Italy in New York City

A band of wandering locals walks up Mulberry, playing Italian favorites like the theme of The Godfather. We sit down at Pellegrino’s for a great dinner and enjoy the people-watching as much as the food.

The Meetles band playing the subway in New York City

It is dark as we leave Little Italy. After reaching the subway station, we were reenergized to be entertained by The Meetles, a band paying tribute to classic rock and the Beatles. We debated going back to Times Square but were all in agreement that it was time to call it quits. It was 9:30 p.m. when we arrived back at Pavonia Station and our hotel. We did all that we could, though we have one more iconic NYC moment on the agenda for tomorrow.

D.C. to NYC

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

Our last day in Washington D.C. starts with us paying a visit to Arlington National Cemetery and the gravesite of John F. Kennedy.

Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

We first visited this resting spot for soldiers from nearly all of America’s conflicts back in 2000, during our expeditionary journey across the United States that saw us racing from Arizona to Maine before heading south to take in places like Washington D.C., Kentucky, the Natchez Trace Parkway, and Louisiana. We didn’t have a proper visit to these grounds then; sadly, we are failing in that task today, too.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

Washington National Cathedral might have been slightly out of our way leaving D.C., but who turns up their nose at some classic neo-gothic architecture when it’s so close?

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

Started in 1907, the cathedral, like most others, would take a long time before being considered finished. In this instance, it took 83 years until 1990, when construction was finally completed.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

This cathedral is part of the Episcopal faith, which got its start when the United States was breaking free from Britain and the Church of England which required allegiance to the monarch.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

We, though, are not here for religion or God; we are here for our senses and to see how old-world European cathedrals compare to what sprung up over here.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

Strangely enough, Caroline and I have visited more Spanish missions in California than any other house of worship across America.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

I don’t know what I was expecting when I planned our visit, but this is quite a beautiful cathedral. I suppose I’d likely seen it in the news being used for funerals or for inaugural prayers, but a foggy memory isn’t certain.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

Things missed while visiting: listening to the organ or a music recital, a tour of the bell tower, and attending services.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

The light is magnificent in many parts of the cathedral.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

I might be wrong, but this seems like a stained glass window one would only see in America.

Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

Close-up detail of the rose window, dedicated in 1977 in the presence of President Jimmy Carter and Queen Elizabeth II.

George Washington statue in the Washington National Cathedral in Washington D.C.

This is the namesake of the cathedral, George Washington, in an alcove under stained glass windows towering above.

After leaving the D.C. area, our destination today is New York City, four hours away.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in New York City

It was late in the afternoon as we arrived at the Courtyard Marriott in Jersey City, New Jersey on the Hudson River. Mere moments after dropping off our bags in the room, we were jumping on the subway at the Pavonia/Newport station en route to Times Square.

New York City

The sun was just peeking over the horizon as we started our walk up Broadway to 42nd Street.

New York City

While it’s a well-known phenomenon, the vibrant energy coursing through this city is palpable. Excitement pulls us in.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in New York City

Gotta remember to take the occasional selfie of Caroline and me so we are reminded that these adventures weren’t just Caroline and Jutta traveling with their personal documentarian.

New York City

Can we ever have too many photos of things that amaze us?

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in New York City

The streets were crowded and, sure enough, lived up to the buzz that this corner of America generates. We weren’t allowed too much time to gawk, though, as we had reservations for a famous local attraction over on 5th Avenue between 33rd and 34th Streets.

New York City

View from the Empire State Building.

New York City

A perfect, cloud-free, fogless, clear night to look out upon New York City.

Caroline Wise in New York City

We must have lingered more than an hour up here. We did take the elevator to the 102nd-floor observatory but enjoyed the 86th-floor more, with the wind and sounds of the city below.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in New York City

Not a lot accomplished yet here in New York City but we have a full day planned for tomorrow.

Mystic Seaport Museum – Day 10

Seven years ago, when we first passed through this coastal town of Mystic, Connecticut, it was late in the day, which didn’t afford us an opportunity to spend any quality time here. We are rectifying that today.

A restaurant so small I’d say you’d be lucky to get a dozen people in this joint that’s appropriately named Kitchen Little. I had the Portuguese Fisherman breakfast consisting of chouriço (Portuguese chorizo) and linguica (Portuguese kielbasa) mixed with eggs, peppers, onions, and a jalapeno cheese on top of a Portuguese English muffin while Caroline’s breakfast omelet included fiddlehead ferns, a tasty veg discovery we’d never heard of before.

I’m happy nobody was with us on our walk through town and along the river when this drawbridge was raised for a passing boat, as we’d have embarrassed ourselves with our geek-squeals of delight, oohs, aahs, and general nerdiness that might be weird to normal people who live near drawbridges. This is the Mystic River.

The last time we were here at Mystic Seaport Museum, it was only 45 minutes before closing time; now we’re here before they open at 10:00 and are like kids going into Disneyland for the first time.

There’s a dilemma for me when entering any museum and that’s, where do I start? I want to be everywhere simultaneously and see the most important things first. That level of anxiety creates issues for me as I typically downplay the first things I see, knowing that around the corner is the real stuff. In the end, everything was worth seeing, and I often wish I’d spent more time exploring and examining the details of those impressions.

Then there’s the variable that asks, how long will it take to see everything? The answer is likely longer than we have to dedicate to this moment we’re out here. Part of my brain panics with the thought, but what if we never come back? Reality thought plays out with the good fortune that if we try to exercise some intention and desire to return, then we likely will.

The whaling ship Charles W. Morgan launched back on  July 21, 1841, and was retired in 1921 after 37 voyages over the course of its career. Lucky us as next year, the Morgan will be taken out of the water for renovations that will take nearly five years, but today, under beautiful skies, we get the opportunity to walk out on Chubb’s Wharf and walk on the deck and below of the oldest surviving commercial ship that is still afloat.

To our untrained eyes, the ship looks perfect, but then again, we cannot see what’s below the surface and how the structural integrity of the ship is holding up after being in the water for 176 years. In a world of replicas, simulacra, and simulations, it’s nearly unbelievable that this actual ship plied the waters of Earth, hunting whales and storing their oil below this deck.

Look into the rigging and try to imagine the people who crawled up the mast while at sea. They would be over 100 feet over the deck or more than 11 floors above the sea as they maneuvered among the 7,134 square feet of sail.

Below the deck are the galley, sleeping quarters, and storage space for supplies and whale oil. I can’t help but think that if the opportunity arose where a modern fleet of these old wooden masters of the sea was to offer adventurers to cross the Atlantic on such a craft, some of us would sign up for such a voyage.

While these try-pots are certainly a historic curiosity, there is also something very grim about authentic cast iron pots that were used to cook down whale blubber into oil. In some way, I feel like this is akin to looking into the ovens at Dachau that were used for cremating humans.

The Mystic Seaport Museum is a living treasure that reminds visitors that when the ships of the world came into port a full cadre of crafts and services had to be on hand to service the needs of the ships and their crews.

Plymouth Cordage Company Ropewalk was once the largest rope producer on earth, but after 140 years of business, the company shut down in 1964. The machinery and 1/3 of the ropewalk itself were moved from Massachusetts here to Mystic Seaport, where we can see the equipment and type of environment in which rope for rigging along with twine was made. For those with a keen eye, you can see that the process is nearly identical to making yarn. As for the shortened ropewalk, it used to be 110 feet long, which was needed by the men to walk out the fibers as they twisted them into lengths of rope up to 90 feet long.

This is the Fishtown Chapel that was moved to the museum in 1949. For a while back in 1900, it was used as a school but was then abandoned and sat decaying before being rescued and restored.

Trying to imagine the buzz around town when a whaling ship was seen on the horizon returning to its home base after being out at sea for two years. The spouses had to wait for the hopeful return of husbands and fathers who would come back to see their children having grown significantly older. With the masts towering 11 stories high, it would have been taller than everything in the area. At the height of the whaling industry, skyscrapers had not yet been built in Chicago or New York, so these ships would have been seen as incredible feats of engineering.

How fortunate America is that Mystic Seaport Museum also plays host to the Henry B. DuPont Preservation Shipyard, where the craft of keeping aging ships afloat and in working order lives on. We could stay here all day and maybe even a second full day, but with 245 miles between us and our next motel, we can’t linger too long, and with heavy hearts, we pull ourselves away.

Once again on the road, it was a brutal drive south past New York City – where we found ourselves in a traffic jam on the Cross Bronx Expressway that forced us to stop and crawl for an hour and a half.

We only had three miles to travel through this congested city, but it took 90 freaking minutes of astonishment and moments of claustrophobia.

Finally, we start to see the clutch of NYC release its grip on us. How do people do this every day?

Across the bridge in New Jersey, we fly in between beautiful wetlands on one side of the turnpike and stinking factories on the other. It was almost 9:45 p.m. when we arrived at our Days Inn in Wilmington, Delaware.

Vermont and Beyond – Day 5

Who asks for a 4:30 wake-up call while on vacation? The kind of people who want to be outside their room by 5:15, that’s who. Why would anyone want to be up and gone by the break of dawn? Because there is no other way to witness this kind of sky. How many times will anyone have the opportunity to see such sights with their own eyes?

What are the subconscious influences that determine why particular routes are chosen over others? As I look at the map of the area, there’s a part of me that thinks that maybe we should have hugged the St. Lawrence River, but our primary place of interest wasn’t that waterway but getting over to Maine. But why Maine? To some degree of awareness, I vaguely know that the idea of the state holds some kind of romantic intrigue. I don’t know why this is in the back of my mind, and can only guess there are images that found their way into my imagination that took hold, kind of like the notions I have about old abandoned buildings.

I know that we have to avoid freeways at all costs until they become the only way to get to our destination, and the rural roads we travel – if we are so lucky to find ones without fences – have an appeal due to the lack of barriers, which draws me into this particular land being more open than those lands beyond even only two-wires of barbed wire standing between me and what’s on the other side. This doesn’t feel rational, and in the distance, I see exactly what I would see even with the two thin wires, but there’s an emotional component that defies logic. Somehow, this applies to my sense of maps when I’m plotting a path.

Rambling along old backroads, we are leaving the Trout River-Westville Rd and turning south on State Route 30 at the Canadian and United States border in New York. Across the border is Godmanchester, and in front of us is Constable. On the radio, we mostly find French broadcasters and a great diversity of programming – not like what we have heard further south. Not many people are living up here. There are a few farms but not much else besides the countryside and plenty of signs.

There are a lot of internal signs that impact my decisions to operate from intuition, while when physically maneuvering our world, the signs imposed by laws constrain my actions. The internal signs are pointers to dreams that help fulfill aspirations, and so it is that we are out here now, trying to decipher and make real whatever the hopes were that formed the structure of this adventure.

There’s so much water out here, and so much we can’t see. If we were here on a summer evening would we hear frogs, would we see fireflies, or whatever other nocturnal life living out here? Those who dwell along these roads and waterways, do they spend time learning about their environment, or is it invisible background noise no longer making an impact? We are enchanted by scenes like this and look for what fish, birds, butterflies, and plants are along the riverbank and what’s in the channel. We are only afforded the most superficial of experiences, though, as this isn’t about immersion but impressions.

While driving just south of the Canadian border, we’ve been tuning into various radio stations along the way with the majority of them broadcasting in French. When the soundtrack to an environment is as new as the place itself, the thrill of novelty is amplified and takes us into perspectives beyond our expectations. Since our departure this morning from Massena, New York, we’ve been traveling on the Military Trail Scenic Byway.

Our hearts pull us toward North Hero here on our return to Vermont, but the desire for new experiences demands we head over the bridges toward Swanton, Vermont.

There are a few things one must see in Vermont, and farms play a large role in that.

Covered bridges made of wood are another thing on the must-see list visitors should seek out. This particular one is the Power House Covered Bridge in Johnson, Vermont.

Add forests and cascades to that list; check.

Metal moose and giant metal daisies are the kind of lawn ornaments the people of Ohio could learn about, with their plastic deer decorating their front yards. Come to think about it; I wonder why the people of Arizona haven’t discovered fake enormous scorpions or javelinas for their yards? Then there are those pink flamingos down in Florida – that’s it; I want to see giant metal pink javelinas in my future.

With only a bit more than five hours in Vermont, I’ll be the first to admit that it was nowhere near enough time to understand the breadth of character this state has. Our second glimpse of the place makes it even more attractive, and the hope to return for a more extensive will burn within.

Hello, New Hampshire and North Stratford! So, we know nothing more about this first town in New Hampshire than we did before we passed through. Sadly, this state will mostly be a blur. Our route will take us down the Daniel Webster Highway along the Connecticut River until we reach Groveton, where we pick up the Berlin-Groveton Highway, also known as the Woodland Heritage Trail.

Stark Covered Bridge over the Upper Ammonoosuc River in Stark, New Hampshire is as good a reason to stop to take in a sight. Have I ever shared that Caroline and I are in love with America’s scenic byways?

While we were in town, this old church from 1853 also caught our attention. It was built shortly before the bridge above.

And within two hours, we were about to say goodbye to the Granite State but not before we heard our first loon out here on the White Mountain Scenic Drive. I should make a note to Caroline and me that we need to come back to this corner of America sometime in June or September to better explore Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island.

Home for the next three nights will be right here in the great state of Maine.

No loons here, but plenty of frogs to listen to here at Cupsuptic Lake on Wilson Mills Road.

How did I miss that the Wilhelm Reich Museum called Orgonon in Rangely, Maine, was along our path? Here we are, showing up well after they closed for the day, drats. Who was Wilhelm Reich you ask? Author of The Function of the Orgasm, The Murder of Christ, Listen, Little Man!, and The Mass Psychology of Fascism. Reich was also a controversial figure for his theory of Orgone, or the energy of the orgasm, and how its regulation was important for mental health. I first learned about him from William S. Burroughs back when I was a teenager in high school.

In Rangely, where we’ll be spending the night, we had an early dinner and then used the late-day sunlight to head up “Moose Alley.” Along the way, we spot about a dozen moose that look like they barely survived winter and some elk and even a beaver. Back in town, the sound of frogs and loons will soon take us off to sleep, but first, we request another 4:30 wake-up call.

St. Lawrence Seaway, NY – Day 4

Lillian "Luba" Knezetic and Robert Knezetic of Ozalj, Karlovac, Croatia

If I had to guess, I’d say this is the first portrait of Louisa Priezula and Blasius Knezetic in the United States somewhere near about 1905 after they passed through Ellis Island. My great-grandmother, while known as Luba in her village of Ozalj near Karlovac, Croatia, would become Lillian in America in order to better fit in. Blasius became Robert. Seven years after taking up residence in Buffalo, New York, they started having children, starting with my Uncle Bob and stopping at the seventh child, my Aunt Ann.

It’s a shame that I never dug deep into who my family was as I was too preoccupied with my own travails to be able to take much interest in people who felt distant and foreign, combined with the fact that I’d never know them. Growing older, I now know that I’d like to know more about their story, but those who could share and might have known something are all gone. Keep in mind that while I’m writing the majority of the blog entries from this trip in 2007 based on notes Caroline kept as we drove across the Eastern United States, is now 2020 when I’m finally assembling this. Hindsight is really at work these days: back in 2007, I felt like my family would somehow always be there – wrong.

Before leaving Buffalo, we stopped at Barnes & Noble to pick up a map of the United States, a coffee, and hopefully, something that would detail hiking and bike trails across the Buffalo region. Sadly, that kind of book does not exist.

Our route is moving in reverse of the trip my mom and I took a couple of years ago and so Caroline and I drive this abomination car called Mustang north through Lockport and Newfane up to Olcott Beach on Lake Ontario.

You just knew Caroline had to step into Lake Ontario at the first opportunity. From this point east, we’ll be traveling the Seaway Trail National Scenic Byway.

To some, these may be simple dandelions, but to these two people from the desert of Arizona, they are a field of glorious color.

Thirty Mile Point Lighthouse in Barker, New York, is only about 14 miles up the road from the previous lighthouse, but we are far from suffering from lighthouse fatigue, so we had to visit.

Why we find shoe trees so interesting is kind of strange, considering that this is likely not good for the tree. Either they are nailed to the poor tree, or they hang from the branches, and when the shoes get wet they probably put a lot of stress on it.

Charlotte Genesee Lighthouse was our next major stop along the byway. By the end of this trip, we’ll likely realize this journey to the Eastern United States should have been called the 2007 Lighthouse Tour. I should point out how nice it is to be out here with Caroline to enjoy the luxury of taking in the really important things and not being on a race to the next diner, restaurant, farmers market, ice cream stand, bakery, or winery as I was with my mom back in 2005.

Well, speaking of food. Mom and I stopped here, and I fell in love with the location right on Lake Ontario, so it seemed like a great place to bring Caroline for lunch. We had a Red Plate and a Guppy Plate, which are both haddock but in different portion sizes. Still hungry, I also ordered a Texas Hot. No wonder I’m fat. For those who may not know, a Texas Hot is a charbroiled hot dog with a red chili sauce. It’s a Western New York thing, so now you know. To top it all off, we each had a Birch Beer that might best be described as a kind of root beer.

Visiting Rudy’s Lakeside Drive-In in Oswego, New York. I wonder what kind of idiot is driving that ugly, poorly designed-Mustang out front? Oh yeah, I’m the idiot. I seriously wish we’d exchanged this thing for something else, anything else, even a moped.

Driving along, looking at the fruit trees in bloom, recently plowed fields, and the occasional glimpse of the St. Lawrence Seaway on our left, Caroline and I are attuned with senses on high alert, looking for spots that make us say ‘wow.’ This small streambed with barely an inch of water running over clean bedrock was just one of the moments. On this afternoon, we were traveling northeast on New York Route 12 to its terminus in Morristown, NY, before getting on NY 37. As usual, we passed over the stream and, recognizing the beauty of the location, had to turn around, park the car, and walk out over the bridge to take the shot. If I had a wish, it would be that we were biking this road. It is quiet out here; the occasional scent of flowers and sweet grasses is just dreamy; it’s hard to imagine the harshness of winter that just passed through before us.

There are many waterways, creeks, and streams along the road. Each is photogenic in its own right but we are recognizing that we are now starting to run behind. While our schedule is flexible, we booked rooms for each and every night, so we do have destinations we need to get to, and in some cases, we need to check in well before midnight.

At times, the road couldn’t be any closer to the water, and the flies couldn’t be thicker. I don’t believe we’ve ever encountered thicker clouds of flying insects before being out here. While some of the photos could portray just how bad they were, Photoshop came to the rescue to remove the blurs that added nothing to these photos or our memories.

Tibbetts Point Lighthouse in Cape Vincent, New York at the mouth of the Saint Lawrence Seaway. We are only 100 miles away from Massena, New York, up the seaway, but at our speed, it will be midnight before we arrive. Time to hit the gas.

Amazing photos along the seaway are not here but the memories hopefully travel with us. Dinner was at Bauernstube Restaurant for German food. This is the same place my mom and I had breakfast a couple of years ago. Hmm, wasn’t I just saying this trip isn’t all about food?

The Lakeview Motel in Massena, New York, for the bargain-basement price of only $55 a night was ours. What do you think? Was the view worth it?