North Rim Grand Canyon to Capitol Reef – Day 2

Up and out early for a visit to Capitol Reef National Park.

I wish I could tell you what’s on this Mule Deer’s right eye; maybe it’s a mini-satellite tracking device.

We are seduced by the golden colors of fall glowing in the sunrise. Our positive first impressions of Capitol Reef are already hinting at the need for a follow-up visit.

Being suckers for petroglyphs, we add these to the list of stuff we must return for in order to have a fuller picture of the park than our quick tour is going to allow us to have.

Dirt roads are the paths to quiet riches because where the pavement ends, the crowds remain at bay, not that this place is swarming with visitors today.

A bit of Chaco cultural influence is at work on this relic of a “modern” building.

My best guess for what created these multi-colored layers is that this was a floodplain at one time. I think it wasn’t a lake as there are no black layers that would imply plant and fish life that was settling at the bottom, and the layers are seriously almost uniformly thin, so maybe it was quickly disappearing floodwaters that came and went?

If we are in Hanksville, Utah, this must be the famous Hollow Mountain gas station. We are about to turn off Route 24 for the 95 before taking the 276 to Bullfrog. Where…

…we were hoping to catch this ferry across Lake Powell. We just missed it by minutes and with almost two hours before the next ferry going in our direction, we opted to drive back towards Hite and take the bridge over the Colorado.

While we will always enjoy a good ferry trip over the water we don’t much mind a stunning drive over the desert either.

Colorado River flowing into Lake Powell in Utah

Can you guess just where the Colorado meets the lake?

Wow, this is one spectacular approach to a bridge.

Hite Crossing over the Colorado River in Utah

Back in 1983, Lake Powell was in danger of spilling over the top of the Glen Canyon dam; under the bridge, you can see the bathtub ring the full lake left behind. Matter of fact, besides the ugly tragedy of destroying Glen Canyon by backing up the Colorado River, the water bleaches the sandstone and deposits tons of sediment in the lake, depriving the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon of the kind of river dynamics that made rafting a huge variable. Taming the beast to remove the risk of encountering the wild has been one of humanity’s greatest faults.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Colorado State Line

Why go straight home when you can detour and take in four states in one day? And I don’t mean some short little detour either; we go large and head through Blanding up to Monticello, where we catch Highway 666 so we can drop into Colorado going to Dove Creek. South through Cortez, we continue on the Devil’s Highway, where we can have a meaningful and potentially evil encounter with the Colorful State. Sadly, I have to report that neither Satan nor his minions were found on this day.

Snow-capped mountains and bald eagles, that’s America.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the New Mexico State Line

Into New Mexico, we are still on Hell’s Highway as we cruise past Shiprock and south to Gallup before turning west for the final drive home on this blistering fast loop out around the Four Corners of the American Southwest.

Mount Rushmore Trip – Day 2

Albuquerque, New Mexico

We’re running late. It’s already 6:15 a.m. when we are getting back on the freeway. Why the rush? We are trying to get to Mount Rushmore in South Dakota, which is about 1,200 miles (2,000 km) from home. Our first stop this morning is 383 miles (616 km) from this overpass. Time to move quickly.

Garden of the Gods in Colorado

The trip of the “Western Edge” appears to be a theme here as we are just to the west of Colorado Springs, Colorado, when we arrive at Garden of the Gods, our first stop. This free-to-visit park was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1971, and should you find yourself driving up the middle of Colorado one day, you should drop in.

Garden of the Gods in Colorado

If we had the time, we’d be out there on that wagon for a hayride.

Garden of the Gods in Colorado

Our visit to Garden of the Gods was brief, but we did get a great impression of the place.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Anybody who knows us knows that there was no way we were going to pass up on the opportunity to visit a national park, even if it meant we’d have to drive through midnight. To dip our toe into Rocky Mountain National Park was only going to add about 100 miles (160 km) of driving, which sounded easy peasy to us, too, and so up the mountain, we strode.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Out in these mountains, the Colorado River is born, which makes possible the abundance of food, life, recreation, and prosperity that many people enjoy from around the globe. Without the snowfalls in the Rockies, our lives in Arizona, Nevada, and Southern California would be vastly different.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

How lucky are the people of Earth that America’s 18th President, Ulysses S. Grant, established Yellowstone National Park? He was followed by our 26th President Theodore Roosevelt, who was one of the park system’s greatest supporters in giving to all of us these pristine, undeveloped treasures that we can experience in the way nature has shaped them without the heavy hand of man who has often been less than kind on our environment.

To the west are mountains, mountains, some desert, more mountains, and the ocean, and to the east, the Great Plains for as far as you can go, sort of.

Caroline Wise and John Wise entering South Dakota

While to the north is Wyoming and beyond that are parts unknown to the two of us, though we are willing to go into that void to see for ourselves just what is there.

And what we find is the golden sunset of perfection and you need to know that we had to bask in this beauty as long as we could because these two travel cheapos are on the hunt for a motel and not just any motel.

Carpet in cheap motel, Wyoming

We scored with that vintage kind of flair that lets you know these rooms have not been renovated since 1974. The great thing about this carpet is that it doesn’t matter how many people before our arrival have bled, ejaculated, vomited, urinated, defecated, blew snots on, or rolled around with open sores on the carpet because that’s all lost in the pattern. No, we do not travel with a black light, as knowledge is not power when you are only interested in saving money.

Cheap motel in Wyoming

These types of bed covers are a kind of Russian roulette where you just want to close your eyes before pulling back the corner. Then you have to decide if you really want to count how many pubic hairs are on the sheets and pillows. Almost worse is when you realize there’s no blanket underneath it and that this thing is going to be lying right on top of you. Our favorite moments, though, are when we finally do lay down, and gravity pulls us into the developing black hole at the center of the mattress that hardly qualifies as being such, as it is more a membrane funneling us into the center of the universe known as the “pile of John and Caroline trying to not roll onto each other.”

Mount Rushmore Trip – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise leaving Arizona

When leaving on a Labor Day weekend, make note that it is better to depart on Thursday, a day before everyone else is about to hit the road for the last long weekend of summer. It was already after 3:00 in the afternoon when we joined the barely moving cluster of holidaygoers that had us inching out of the city.

Bloody Basin Road sign in Arizona

What should have taken about 45 minutes to reach the Bloody Basin Road exit took about 90 minutes today, but once we got to this point on the highway we were moving fast and were well on our way.

Meteor City, Arizona

We passed through Flagstaff at 6:00 p.m. and drove east on the I-40 as sunset was approaching. Caroline was pointing out how long it had been since we last traveled this highway and how much she enjoyed seeing the Painted Desert, the various Trading Posts with their faux teepees, and the roadside dinosaurs that try to pull people into Holbrook for petrified tree souvenirs.

Toilet Mint at Motel in Albuquerque, New Mexico

It was 9:00 p.m. when we passed through Lupton, Arizona, and already 10:01 p.m. when we hit the New Mexico state line less than a mile later. Oh yeah, we changed time zones! By 11:30, we are checked into our $26-a-night Interstate Inn on the western edge of Albuquerque. At the time I took this photo, I was too tired and bleary-eyed to notice the urine stain carnage, but what does one expect for $26? I took the photo because of the toilet mint, which perfumed our room with its men’s room odor. No time to worry about these things as we’ll be back on the road in little more than six hours.

Bosque Del Apache NWR – Day 2

Honey Doo Inn in Truth or Consequences, New Mexico

The Honey Doo Inn was attractive just because of the sign. Okay, that’s not 100% truthful, as the price is always a factor. If we are going to travel once or twice a month, we need to do so with the minimum of expenses. Staying in places like Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, off the beaten path is one way to combat high lodging prices, and so that’s part of the attraction that brought us here.

Truth or Consequences, New Mexico

Digging the Native American motifs on the old water tower.

Truth or Consequences, New Mexico

And the funky display of thousands of CDs on the facade of this building.

Turkey in New Mexico

While I’ve heard the joke about chickens crossing the road to get to the other side, I’ve not caught the one about the turkeys crossing the road. A rafter of turkeys had already crossed while this lone wolf stayed behind, keeping its eye on me, probably as a protection against me making predatory moves on his women.

Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in New Mexico

We’ve reached the Bosque Del Apache Wildlife Refuge outside of Socorro, New Mexico. Turns out there are not a lot of birds here right now, as their favorite time of year is mid-November through the end of January. It’s still beautiful out here along the Rio Grande River.

Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in New Mexico

Giant red ants, obviously a giant-sized mutant that was caused by nuclear fallout from the nearby Trinity test site where the world’s first nuclear weapon was detonated back on July 16, 1945. What else lurks below the surface of the desert, waiting to emerge as monsters ready to devour humankind?

Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in New Mexico

Nope, no birds here nor giant sandworms.

Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in New Mexico

Snow geese awaiting our arrival. Little did we know on this visit that we were supposed to show up at daybreak for the giant fly-out or an hour earlier than this when they begin the fly-in. Hopefully, on a subsequent visit, we’ll be able to witness these spectacles.

Socorro, New Mexico

Socorro is a relatively nice little place, though there’s not a lot left of this mile-long town that runs along the highway connecting Albuquerque, New Mexico, and El Paso, Texas.

Luna, New Mexico

Luna, New Mexico: population one wooden cowboy and a mailbox. Next stop: Phoenix, Arizona.

Bosque Del Apache NWR – Day 1

El Ranchito Mexican Restaurant in Globe, Arizona

You never know when spotting a small roadside Mexican joint whether you found that diamond in the rough. Most are mediocre, but on occasion, we fall into some of the best experiences. We didn’t make note of this particular place as being extra special and never went back, so while it might have been okay, it wasn’t an Ed’s La Casita East further down the road here in Globe, Arizona. Ed’s has a spicy guacamole we are in love with, but if we never try new stuff, we won’t discover new loves.

Roadside shrine on highway 60 in Arizona

Roadside shrines often drag us in for a closer inspection, especially the ones that are ornately decorated and maintained, showing the love and prayers for those being memorialized out in the middle of nowhere.

Morenci Mine in Morenci, Arizona

By the way, we are on another road trip. This one is going east out on the 60 towards Clifton-Morenci near the New Mexico border. This is the Morenci open-pit mine that hauls out about a million tones of copper ore every day.

Caroline Wise and John Wise near Hillsboro, New Mexico

We’ve been traveling together now for about 13 years and still love one another’s company on these long journeys into parts unknown. This trip will last the entire weekend and will take us across the border to New Mexico with a few new places to mark on our map.

Hillsboro, New Mexico

Hillsboro, New Mexico: population about 100 people.

Hillsboro, New Mexico

If these places had seriously adequate internet service, they’d be the perfect place for Caroline and me to take up residence; that is, of course, until the connoisseur in me started begging for foodstuffs we wouldn’t find for 100 miles in any direction.

Hatch, New Mexico

This is the Valley Cafe, and they had one of the best salsas we’ve ever had. I asked them for the recipe, and strangely enough, they gave it to me.

Hatch, New Mexico

When in the world-famous Hatch, New Mexico, be sure to stop at any of the roadside chile stands and pick some up. Don’t worry about what you’ll do with them until you get home, and then start hunting for recipes to spice up your meals. By the way, is it chili or chile?

Native American Lands – Day 2

Ute Reservation, Colorado

We are on a guided tour through the Ute Reservation in Southwest Colorado and are immediately surprised by the amount of broken pottery we are shown. That these small fragments of cultural treasure are lying here for us to witness is lucky for us. Thank you to everyone else who has ever visited and withstood the desire to walk away with a souvenir shard.

Ute Reservation, Colorado

Pictographs are easily spotted in nearly all directions.

Ute Reservation, Colorado

While the rock formations are of great interest, too.

Caroline Wise on the Ute Reservation, Colorado

But it is the fragments of dwellings that draw us in.

Ute Reservation, Colorado

An old visitor center that operated from 1971 to 1981 is near the foot of Chimney Rock.

Zuni Art, New Mexico

From one reservation, we headed to another south of us. The Zuni Reservation is in northwest New Mexico. We were looking for some food but found art and fell deeply in love with Zuni art.

Zuni Art, New Mexico

At the time, we couldn’t afford a piece from the collection we were checking out, and I regret it.

Native American Lands

Our drive back to Phoenix is filled with beautiful landscapes and dramatic skies.