Coronado Trail Scenic Byway

Very Large Array near Datil, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Today’s return to Arizona started with us fueling up at El Camino Family Restaurant, as we’ll never miss an opportunity to eat there. Once out of town and heading west, it was inevitable that we would be passing the VLA (Very Large Array – see the movie Contact with Jodie Foster to see what I’m talking about).

Apache Creek Store in Reserve, New Mexico

Maybe living in Europe for ten years helped me better appreciate these unique American sights; I never tire of the old-fashioned places if, for no other reason than walking in, we might get to hear the creaky wood floor announcing our arrival. Well, that and buying ice cream to support the local economy.

Luna Post Office and Cafe in Luna, New Mexico

Another 30 minutes further east and it’s already to stop again, this time in Luna, New Mexico, for refreshments.

Somewhere near Alpine, Arizona

Back in Arizona, we stopped for homemade ice cream at the Lollipop Shoppe in Alpine and then took a turn south on the 191.

Coronado Scenic Byway in Eastern Arizona

This was the original “Photo of the Day:” wildflowers along the Coronado Trail just north of Hannagan Meadows, taken by Caroline. This is one of my most recommended scenic drives in Arizona.

Coronado Scenic Byway in Eastern Arizona

State Route 191, also known as “The Devil’s Highway,” is the Coronado Trail Scenic Byway. This road descends 5,000 feet (1,600 meters) over 60 miles (97km) via 525 sharp curves and switchbacks. The byway closely follows the route Coronado took back in 1540.

Coronado Scenic Byway in Eastern Arizona

One has to wonder, who drives around with their bow and arrows so they can shoot an arrow at a dead tree, hoping to actually hit it? I’m only showing you a section of the tree; just imagine how many arrows are in the surrounding forest from those who missed their shot.

Coronado Scenic Byway in Eastern Arizona

Approaching the end of the Coronado Scenic Byway, the smoke on the left is actually dust from what lies just over the way.

Morenci Mining Operation near Morenci/Clifton, Arizona

This is the rather giant Morenci mine, the biggest copper-producing open-pit mine in all of North America.

Clifton, Arizona

The mine has its own town, also named Morenci, and just down the road is the old town of Clifton, which appears to be falling into disrepair.

Geronimo Memorial in Geronimo, Arizona

Welcome to Geronimo that really isn’t anything much of something anymore. Aside from some nearby ruins and a couple of roadside signs that always seem to go missing, go figure as they just say “GERONIMO,” there’s just this monument giving a tiny bit of background about the Chiricahua Apache rebels and how the U.S. Government built them a “camp” called Fort Thomas where they were supposed to stay next to the Gila River and be good little Indians. Apparently, medicine man Geronimo didn’t appreciate the concentration camp. And before you get your panties into a bunch, I said concentration camp, not death camp.

Bosque Redondo – The Long Walk

Geiler Cattle Company in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

After leaving the Guadalupe Inn in Whites City, New Mexico, the three of us had breakfast in Roswell at the Nuthin’ Fancy Cafe. After a ton of desert and not one alien, we stopped for a laugh here off State Route 20 and the intersection of Altito Road, but if you don’t read German, you may not know why we stopped. You see, Geiler in German means hornier, and the idea of some serious horny cattle out there as though that were a possibility, well, that seemed pretty funny to us.

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Not so funny is this shrine to a mass murderer, but because this psycho arrives out of the over-romanticized Old West, he’s a kind of folk hero. So, what’s in the Billy The Kid Museum?

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Oh, a gun that maybe he used to murder someone. It makes me wonder why we don’t have a roadside museum dedicated to Jeffrey Dahmer featuring power tools and blood-stained towels for processing the eating of his victims.

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Okay, this fits: why not feature racist iconography out of the dark past, as those who worship at the feet of villains might enjoy memories of better times?

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Right on, some angry injun beating his drum, that works for this abomination of a place.

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

I think the wheels fell off this once-quaint idea of building a museum to this type of character.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Bosque Redondo was the end of the trail for over 8,000 Navajos who were force-marched off their lands and into New Mexico on what is known as “The Long Walk.” A new visitor center has opened here on these grounds next to the Pecos River in Fort Sumner, New Mexico. I would have supplied a link to more information, but the links are a hit-and-miss hodgepodge of snippets of info that fail to go into great detail about the significance behind the memorial.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

This map shows a proposed route of what could one day be the Long Walk National Historic Trail.

Pecos River at Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

We are out on the interpretive trail; this is the Pecos River running through the Memorial Park.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

This memorial was just opened back on June 4th, not even 3o days ago; even the dragonflies are new.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

The exhibits in the facility are not yet all-together there; this is all a bit of work in progress.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

And if you arrive in the summertime, expect the temperatures to be north of 100 degrees (40c).

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

There’s a nearby photo that depicts Native Americans under armed guards building the barracks for the white guys, except those were built with adobe bricks; we’re guessing this is a recreation over the foundation, so we get the idea.

Billy the Kid grave site in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Nearby, the Billy The Kid Grave Site is guarded by a cage, and somehow, people want to throw money at it and leave flowers. Next week, I’m gonna set up a shrine and museum in honor of John Gacy, the Killer Clown, so people pay my bills by throwing their spare change at his headstone. Don’t go telling me or anyone else that he was cremated because that doesn’t matter; we just need a place, some artifacts, and maybe some body parts.

Encino, New Mexico

Encino, New Mexico, simply turned into a ghost town and is being allowed to crumble. Too bad Charles Manson didn’t kill people here.

Encino, New Mexico

Maybe Kenneth Pinyan, a.k.a. Mr. Hands and the city of Enumclaw, should come to mind? Last night he died after having his internal organs used as a punching bag by a stallion penis.

Encino, New Mexico

Makes you wonder what kind of bestiality might have been happening out in these parts, seeing how this Encino Motel was under new “menagement,” obviously a play on menagerie and management.

Somewhere on New Mexico Route 60

My mother-in-law’s body is in there, don’t tell anyone.

Rio Grande River in New Mexico

We crossed a fuller-than-usual Rio Grande River; seems I’m kind of full of it, too.

El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico

Of course, we stayed the night in Socorro, as where else should we have had dinner? Staying here allowed us to not only grab our evening meal at our favorite little restaurant in New Mexico – the El Camino Family Restaurant, but you can rest assured that breakfast will also be right here.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Leaving Las Cruces, New Mexico at dawn

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; the bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Up early Saturday morning for the 188-mile (304km) drive that passes through Texas and back into New Mexico.

Ruin in New Mexico

Welcome to Salt Flat, Texas. This is about all that’s left.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park in New Mexico

Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We reached Carlsbad Caverns quickly enough, and like Jutta’s and my trip here a week ago, a single bat was on the wall to greet us as we entered its domain.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We hoped to enter the cave through the Natural Entrance, which can’t be a given and depends on if my mother-in-law feels she has the stamina. Fortunately for us today, this is how we entered the cave.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Having just photographed the cave a week prior, I wasn’t sure if I would find any new angles to share, but here goes.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

While the cave system feels huge, it also feels rather compact as the paved walkway twists and turns so much that you never really know where you are.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

The trail is 1.25 miles long with an elevation gain or loss of 750 feet, though somehow it doesn’t feel like that at all, probably because your senses are tuned to taking in as much as possible.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

While this cave is astonishing, there’s much gone and broken as when it was first discovered; people didn’t know anything at all about the fragility, age, or health of an ecosystem that might be still evolving in this now mostly dead cave. Of course, we wouldn’t be able to enjoy it quite the same without the great lighting and pathways, but it sure would have been great to see and hear the cave while water was still actively forming these ribbons, stalagmites, stalactites, and other formations that boggle the mind.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Like organic creatures, these formations could have been considered lungs, and if you’d told me that, I might have believed you.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After descending about halfway, we detoured from the Big Room so we could make our reservations for the King’s Palace Tour at 3:00 p.m. Finishing the King’s Palace, we re-entered the Big Room to finish the trail we skipped earlier.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

What photos came from the main cave area or the King’s Palace are lost to time; suffice it to say that they are all from Carlsbad Caverns.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just stop and think about this: all of this rock used to be a solid structure until groundwater dripped through the earth, carving out the limestone.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But as where rivers scrape clean the surfaces they run over, these waters leach minerals carrying them along to form what we see here today.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Somewhere in our vicinity is the Lechuguilla Cave system, which is still very much alive but it’s off-limits to all but scientists and park personnel.

John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Jutta Engelhardt at the bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

With barely enough time to get good seats at the Natural Entrance amphitheater, our explorations ended with us watching the Bat Flight  – more than 350,000 bats making their way out of the cave’s Natural Entrance tornado-style for a night of bug munching.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Afterward, we felt like munching on something as well and headed to Carlsbad for dinner at Chili’s, one of the few eateries still open at 9.30 PM.

Steins Ghost Town in New Mexico – Day 5

Jutta in Steins Mercantile part of the Steins Ghost town in New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included one photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

My mother-in-law standing under the dollar bill we stapled under the shelf. In March, I stapled another dollar there when my grandfather Herbert and aunt Eleanor and I passed through on the way to Florida. There is also a bill on the left of the picture that Caroline and I stapled on the wall when we visited Steins in November 2000 on our way back home across the United States.

Somewhere in Arizona

Today, we found our way back to Phoenix through a very hot desert.

Rollover accident along the highway in Arizona

Well, that just sucks, a rollover accident where the roof of the SUV had to be cut off; we can only hope that everyone was okay. And that is the end of our short 5-day mother-in-law/son-in-law super drive.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park – Day 4

Jutta Engelhardt in Roswell, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Wow, I was wrong about where we were going to be last night! We ended up at the Sands Motel in Portales, New Mexico. From there, it was only 90 miles over to the Nuthin Fancy Cafe in Roswell, New Mexico, for breakfast. If you think my mother-in-law had any interest in visiting the world-famous UFO Museum and Research Center, you’d be nuts; this lady came out of having survived World War II in Germany and could give 2 cents of concern about some crazy idea that a UFO landed nearby. Yeah, I thought the same thing, “Your loss old lady.”

Jutta Engelhardt at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We made our way to Carlsbad Caverns National Park instead because in America’s natural wonders, Jutta has a big interest.

Oh, look, it’s the Cave Door Greeter, kind of like the human equivalent at Walmart or Costco.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After selling my mother-in-law on how great the slow trail through the Natural Entrance to the Big Room is, she agreed to go for a little walk.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Caroline and I have already visited Carlsbad Caverns on three previous visits in 1998, 1999, and 2002; I hadn’t anticipated that I’d still be able to appreciate it as much as I am.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There’s one thing missing as Jutta and I make our way into the cave: the chatter of her and Caroline nattering on in German about what they are looking at.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are eight more images from inside the cave following this one; you can rest assured that I feel like deleting all of them and cutting to the juicy bits that will follow later in the evening.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But I love these photos, even if they are only 8 megapixels each.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

These contrasting colors and various rock types, many of them coated in the frozen minerals leached out of the surrounding earth, make for striking images and are on a scale that makes one feel like the puny little human one is.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are three other visitable caves nearby, including Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Slaughter Canyon Cave, that we’ve yet to visit. I think we need to better plan our spontaneous trips.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just imagine what these might have looked like when water was flowing over them. Over at nearby Lechuguilla Cave, one might see it (if they are a scientist and can wait years for permission after convincing the park service that their research is worthy and they have the requisite skills for serious caving).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Of course, one could visit Kartchner Caverns in Benson, Arizona, to see a living cave system, but with their no-photography rules I fail to understand the attraction fully. I need photos, or we were never there.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We actually have been to Kartchner because when I bought tickets they didn’t tell me ahead of time that photography wasn’t allowed. I can’t even remember what I saw as my jaw was clenched down so tightly that it apparently obscured my vision and erased my memory. Now consider this view of yet another psychedelic chamber: I know I was here, right here at the spot where this photo was taken, and that makes this place sit in my memories for years, and if ever I need a reminder, I just look back to these days and revel in the experiences we’ve been able to obtain.

[Or could it be that you have no memory of Kartchner because the cave tour itself felt very short, the bats were off lounging in Mexico, and the seeming majority of our visit was spent looking at some light show accompanied by new-agey music? – Caroline]

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

No tripod, handheld, not the best ISO, and still, I managed to snap off three portrait images of this giant cascade to stitch into a panorama.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Those are soda straw formations and represent the end of our self-guided tour of Carlsbad, well, the caverns anyway; there’s more to come above ground.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

At dusk, you might be so lucky, depending on the time of year, that you too can witness the Bat Flyout. My mother-in-law had one word to describe this phenomenon, “Sagenhaft,” which translates to fabulous or amazing.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

Sadly, the bats missed this cockroach, probably because it and a bevy of its friends were camping out in what can easily be described as the worst room ever in any of the cheap motels we’ve sunk to staying in.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This one, though, will not be stayed in. It took everything in my power to remain in this room to take these photos.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

So disgusting it was I didn’t even bother to haggle about a refund; I simply wanted my mother-in-law and me to put as many miles between us and this shithole as quickly as possible. Sadly, this was the only motel in Las Cruces that had availability, which meant that though it was approaching midnight, we’d have to tough it out for another hour until we reached Deming, New Mexico, with fingers crossed we’d find a room

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

While it might be difficult to make out, I believe this is the outline of a dead body and the single greatest contributing factor as to why this room smells something worse than hell.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

I’m still trying to figure out what happened to the curtains.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This was that place of nope, the Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Seriously, nothing compares to this in all of our travels.

Jutta and John on a Roadtrip – Day 1

Jutta Engelhardt at Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

Disclaimer: This post was updated in October 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. Most of the details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Jutta and I left early this morning for a road trip that would take us from Phoenix to New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and back to New Mexico before returning to Phoenix, Arizona. But first up was a quick stop at the Petrified National Forest.

Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

We didn’t head out into the wilderness or down any amazing trails but did a bit of sightseeing from the car so Jutta could refresh her memory of her previous visit.

Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

This is one of the nice aspects of keeping our National Parks Pass current as it doesn’t bother us to dip in for a brief visit, and just that quickly, we were back on Interstate 40 driving east.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise enjoying a Dairy Queen somewhere in New Mexico

With such a long drive today and Jutta’s tendency to get sleepy in the car, there’s nothing like a Blizzard from Dairy Queen to pick her up. We were passing through Gallup, New Mexico, where gas and toilet facilities were also likely needed.

Somewhere between New Mexico and Colorado

With this being one of Jutta’s longest stays in the United States and Arizona moving into summer, I thought it would be a good idea for her and me to not only have a little 5-day mother-in-law/son-in-law road trip but to get her to cooler climes. Unfortunately, I’d forgotten that monsoons get started earlier in New Mexico than for us just west of this state. Oh well, soon, we’ll be heading north.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise on a road trip

Did someone say they needed a coffee? Hey, that’s a good idea! So it was time to call Caroline and ask her to find us the nearest Starbucks. She came through, and we are reenergized and can keep plowing ahead.

Sunset in Colorado

I can only guess that we were somewhere between Colmor and Springer, New Mexico, although we could be a hair just south of that, too.

Blackjack's Saloon & Steak House in Trinidad, Colorado

It was dinner time when we crossed into Colorado, and once again, Caroline came to the rescue, directing us to Blackjack’s Saloon & Steak House in Trinidad.  Instead of taking a break after dinner, I was determined that we would position ourselves as close to Wyoming as I could get us. Two-hundred thirty miles further north, we finally called it quits in Longmont, Colorado, only about an hour from Wyoming.

Today’s drive was one for the record books at 948 miles or 1,525 kilometers, nearly the equivalent of driving all the way from Germany’s south to the far north and back again. So, why would I embark on such a difficult endurance test for my mother-in-law? Our trips need to be memorable, and grueling is just one aspect; there’s more to come.