Rez Dog and GPS

On the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona a rez dog find a quick meal of roadkill.

I took a drive south today to further test using GPS when shooting photographs. With our Canon Digital Rebel XT, there is no elegant method for bringing GPS coordinates together with the EXIF data that is saved with an image. We are using a Garmin Legend C GPS unit with its Mapsource software. When I shoot a photo, I mark a waypoint on the GPS at nearly the same time. I synced the time of the GPS and the camera via my computer, which nearly doesn’t matter as the marked waypoint and the time the photo was shot will always be a few seconds off – at a minimum. Upon getting back to the computer, I dump the photos and the waypoint markers into their respective directories. Caroline then takes a tab-delimited text file of the waypoints, imports them into a database, and uses a script that displays the waypoints on Google Maps. By comparing time stamps, we are able to identify which photos belong to which waypoints and the images are mapped to their respective GPS locations on Google Maps. Shortly, the entire process will be automated, and all future photographs will find their way onto Google Maps.

The above photo was taken on the Tohono O’odham Reservation near Santa Rosa in Arizona. The GPS location was N32 22.531 W112 02.861. Our trip to Hawaii this week will feature extensive use of GPS; we hope to have map coordinates for every photo we shoot.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

Update: I returned to this post in 2023 to update the photo and check on the text; the paragraph and dog above are the original post while from this photo down are some of the other images I shot back on April 16, 2006.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

There’s very little I can share about these images 17 years after I took them, but there were some clues such as I was driving south on the west side of Picacho Peak.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

I suppose street view could help with the locations, but I don’t see that precise data really being of any use.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

Obviously, I was entering the Tohono O’odham Reservation at this time.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

Roadside memorials on the various Native American reservations are a relatively common site; somehow, I expect the worst and think this was likely a drunk driving incident as there’s very little traffic out these ways to believe it was a fatal accident with another vehicle.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

There is a part of me that would like the know the old roads I took so I could revisit them and see what’s changed.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

It turns out that the Gu-Achi Trading Post on the Tucson Ajo Highway in the town of Maish Vaya is still open here in 2023, and if I’m not mistaken, Caroline and I have stopped in in the not-too-distant past.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

I’ve turned around for the drive home.

Somewhere on or near the Tohono O'odham Reservation in Arizona

I’ve loved these solo drives out on lonely roads to take my time seeing what’s out in the desert.

Canyon de Chelly

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Disclaimer: This post was updated in October 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; most of the details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Sure, it’s a cliche that perspective changes everything, but it was just yesterday that we were looking down in the canyon, and somehow, I missed that it was this wet down here. I can’t believe we are finally visiting Canyon de Chelly properly. Our tour was arranged through Thunderbird Lodge, where we were staying.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

We knew that we’d be visiting the White House Ruin today, but that there would be a number of cliff dwelling sites for us to see came as a surprise. I was just pondering what it is that I find so intriguing about southwest Native American historic sites compared to European ones, and I guess it comes down to the mystery of knowing so little. Allowing the imagination to wander instead of having concrete images and texts lends to this sense of curiosity, and then there’s the idea that Native Americans might know something about their ancestors that they’ve not shared, which only adds to the allure.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Sure, it’s just more of the stream we are driving through that’s not deep enough for any kind of boat, but I’m seriously enchanted by this red, green, and blue landscape being traveled through on the water.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

I’m starting to get the sense that Canyon de Chelly was a metropolis back in its day.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

If there was any doubt as to why we couldn’t bring our own cars back here, those have now been dispelled. We should also hope that no one ever has the idea of paving a way into this canyon.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Those are the pictographs and petroglyphs that the following site is named after.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

These are the Antelope House Ruins of the Ancestral Puebloan culture, formerly known as the Anasazi. I wish we could get closer to have a better look at the original plaster that still holds fast to the kiva wall in front of us, as though it would somehow convey its secrets to me if only I were inches from it.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Look at the figure on the right; I think Robert Crumb stole the idea for Mr. Natural from this panel!

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle, Arizona

There had to be at least one selfie here to prove we were the ones on this epic journey, it also makes for a nice reminder of our time shared with Caroline’s mom.

Whitehouse Ruin at Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

This is the White House Ruin in Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona. The building in the back is the namesake of this particular location. Should I ever be so lucky to return here, I’ll bring my 70-200mm lens to try grabbing a better image of it as after I got home and zoomed into this image, I could see writings on the walls, and while I can guess that they are from people moving through the area about 100 years ago, I’d still like to see more details. Interestingly enough, I cannot find any close-up photos of that building.

White House Ruin in Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Arizona

White House Ruin, too, but a better overview of the complex; of note, this was about as close as we were allowed to get.

Caroline Wise flying a kite on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Every so often, Caroline remembers to bring a kite with us on the off chance she finds a windy enough place to take it airborne. We are still on the Navajo Reservation but are heading in the general direction that will take us home after our next stop.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

We are at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado, Arizona.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

This guest hogan is not visitable unless you are invited as an artist in residency; what a crazy honor that would be.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The old kitchen in the private home of John Lorenzo Hubbell who purchased the trading post out front back in 1878.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And this is the dining room where the Hubbells would have taken their meals.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

One of the seven bedrooms in the Hubbell home.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The portrait is of J.L. Hubbell, which seems to be how he was known then, and above on the ceiling are Navajo baskets hung upside down.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And finally, the main entrance to the residence.

Hopi Reservation

Painted Desert near Winslow, Arizona

If today’s route is leaving Winslow and our first destination is the Hopi Reservation, then you should know that you’ll be passing right through the Painted Desert.

Hopi Reservation in Arizona

The reason behind this drive north was to visit Kykotsmovi, Third Mesa, on the Hopi Reservation for a Kachina Dance. Photography of the event is not allowed, and it is requested that our interpretation of events not be conveyed either, so we abide by the Hopi requests so that we might be able to attend these dances for years to come.

Hopi Reservation in Arizona

The road to Kykotsmovi, Third Mesa, and one of the longest inhabited places in the United States.

Hopi Reservation in Arizona

After the dance, we had lunch at the Hopi Cultural Center and then visited the Arts and Crafts store of Tsakurshovi owned by Janice and Joseph Day near Shungopavi. My mother-in-law bought her granddaughter her first Kachina Doll and earrings for Caroline. We have been visiting Tsakurshovi for years after Duke and Sarah Kayduk of the Calf Canyon Bed & Breakfast in Bluff, Utah, recommended we visit them on Second Mesa.

Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle, Arizona

We’re not done with our visit to northern Arizona and are spending the night in Chinle on the Navajo Reservation. This is Canyon De Chelly National Monument and tomorrow, we have a jeep tour down below.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle, Arizona

A lot of planning, effort, and expense goes into these trips, and with Jutta’s visit this year lasting 65 days, we go far to ensure she leaves with a lifetime of memories and shirts she’ll wear for years to come. So, from historic, cultural, musical, artistic, natural, and moments spent with family, we know she’ll carry a ton of these experiences back to Germany with her.

Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Dinner and lodging were at the Thunderbird Lodge near the entrance to Canyon De Chelly.

St. John’s Indian School

Deacon Cline Anselmo from St John's Indian School near Laveen, Arizona

Drive south on 51st Avenue out of Phoenix, Arizona, for a mighty good way, and you will drive into Laveen and the Gila River Indian Reservation. South of Laveen is the St. John’s Indian School. Of the original boarding school, all that’s left are a few ruins and signs of foundations. Fortunately for me today, Deacon Cline Anselmo was coming to work at the still functioning and quite beautiful little church. The Deacon pointed out where the dormitories, bakery, food storage, and old church used to be.

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

Update: it’s 2023 in late June as I turn my attention to extending this post that originally was nothing more than the first photo of Deacon Anselmo. Once I’m done with this post, I’m going to try giving up on additions and corrections in order to turn my attention to other things. Plus, I feel like I’m running out of steam to tackle more.

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

Today, in 2023, as I am working on this old post, it is now considered “Woke” to create awareness about the forced assimilation, denial of using indigenous language, and the cutting of hair in the 408 Indian Schools across the United States that once existed. The abuse should just be swept under the Indian blanket since that stuff “happened so long ago.” It’s wrong to hold people of today responsible for atrocities they had nothing to do with, such as slavery. By the way, the last Indian School closed in 1996.

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

According to a study in 2019, only 2 of 113 cities with populations over 200,000 are considered truly integrated. Take Detroit, for example; it is 70% black, while the neighboring suburb of Grosse Pointe is 90% white. Why be aware of this in our age when it’s a non-issue because the forces of lock-step conformity desire the image of one big happy American family undivided by class or race to stand unchallenged?

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

Certainly, not all the boarding schools that attracted or pulled in Native Americans were bad, just as not all Catholic priests molest children. This is not a zero-sum argument that drags an entire system into the mud, but we have to recognize that these things were done in our fathers’, grandfathers’, and other distant relatives’ names and that this long history of abuse has likely left us with biases that are still structurally inherent in how things work in modern America.

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

Now consider that in Tule Lake, California, from 1942 to 1946, there was a Japanese Internment Camp, the largest in America, with 18,000 prisoners. We are not talking just adults; nearly half the population were children, some just a few days old. They lived there for four years, and some of the survivors would be in their 80s today; so much for ancient history, huh? Just as we’ve erased our other embarrassments, we’ve moved to take away the evidence of wrongdoings so plausible deniability can present itself as fashionable modernism. We can live in the moment without a nagging past in which people in the United States were intentionally disadvantaged. It is only the “Woke” who want to keep these things alive instead of people picking themselves up by the bootstraps like real Americans always have. People who want justice only want a handout, welfare, or to shame white people out of revenge.

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

Learn what we want you to, replace your individuality and culture so you better integrate, and we’ll ensure that when you return to your people, your community will come undone into absolute dysfunction rife with malaise as the glue of belonging to something unique is destroyed. This is how we’ll break you and then blame you that even with the best of our guidance, you still have chosen the bleak path of laziness, regardless of how much your community is economically disadvantaged.

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

I was never taken away from my parents and placed in a boarding school where Catholic disciplinarians shook fingers (and instruments of corporal punishment) at my wayward ways and foretold of my future of hellish existence if I didn’t conform to the principles of the white man and his god. I don’t know what it was like to cry myself to sleep without a family member to turn to for emotional support, feeling like my mother had abandoned me to the wolves. Or might you think this was like summer camp just without lakes, canoes, the forest, or the chance your family would pick you up in two weeks?

St. John's Indian School and Catholic Church in Laveen, Arizona

This is not about being “Woke” it’s about recognizing that communities that have been repressed and isolated for centuries do not recover in 20 or 30 years. Traditions led by dominant forces are able to persist for centuries, and change only happens when average people no longer want to bear witness to the crimes, such as when Martin Luther translated the bible in an act of defiance. Those who are woke today are attempting to act in defiance, and those who benefit from the status quo are fully aware of what’s at risk if things change because change often sweeps away bad actors. Good thing the bad actors of our age have PR companies that are able to control narratives using the arms of media to subdue contrary opinions, such as the truth.

Somewhere south of Laveen, Arizona

I get it; the dominant culture and ruling class love the perceived stability they’ve created for themselves, and as long as everyone else stays in their lane, life will be perfect. It will be perfect because that’s what we are selling you if only you would position yourself in the winner’s seat and do as we tell you. Do you want to win the game with us? Or do you want to sit there and whine in your poverty, isolation, and total disenfranchisement that actually and, in all honesty, absolutely blocks you, but that’s beside the point and isn’t part of the narrative anyway? That kind of knowledge is toxic, so we’ll call it “Woke” and be done with it. I know full well I’m on the winning side and that the life Caroline and I have is one of great fortune, and I don’t entertain the idea that everyone can be pulled from the flood waters of poverty and discrimination, but sometimes I feel that we’re not even trying anymore to throw the disadvantaged a lifesaver. If you are a minority in America, there’s a likely chance you’ve been fouled, and the referee is nowhere to be found.

Somewhere south of Laveen, Arizona

You might even think your world is on fire, smoldering as the flames move closer and closer to destroying the fragile threads barely kept together in your impoverished and/or marginalized existence.

Gila Bend, Arizona

Fortunately for me, I’ve run out of photos from St. John’s that I wanted to share and can move on to the slow decay of the declining town known as Gila Bend, Arizona.

Gila Bend, Arizona

Trust me when I tell you that I love decay, not of the mind, but when it comes to small towns, there’s a kind of charm and intrigue that arrives with the collapsing economy. Big cities on the other hand, when economic malaise takes over, become the breeding ground of a blight ripe for criminal activity to fill the void. That’s a different kind of scary compared to the type that arrives with poking one’s head into a dilapidated old building, wondering if a hobo has taken up residence.

Gila Bend, Arizona

In this case, there is no building to poke a nose into – while the steps into the storefront remain, there is nothing to walk into.

Gila Bend, Arizona

Why do bits and pieces remain behind, such as part of the entry, the sign, a filled-in swimming pool, and an empty jacuzzi that’s just baking in the sun? Somebody came in here and made an effort to haul the majority of stuff away while leaving these things. I’m perplexed.

Gila Bend, Arizona

While I’m compelled to look into refrigerators of abandoned properties, I’m reluctant to gaze into the receptacle of human waste, but that doesn’t mean I don’t take a gander as though what I might find could convey something of interest.

Gila Bend, Arizona

I think I heard someone in the bathroom…just kidding.

Gila Bend, Arizona

Was there a time when a TV in your room cost extra? What did they mean by “Free 19-inch Color TV?”

Gila Bend, Arizona

In a country where land is so plentiful, we just abandon one location, leave everything there as it’s too expensive to carry away, and build new just down the street. But when it comes to housing for the poor, the land is too expensive, and everyone screams, “Not In My Back Yard.”

Gila Bend, Arizona

Three deserted gas stations in town? There may have been more, but these were the only ones I photographed.

Gila Bend, Arizona

How many more years will all of this remain in place?

Gila River Arts & Crafts in Sacaton, Arizona

Looking at the map of this trip, I can only wonder why I took such a peculiar circuitous route, ending up in Sacaton, where I visited the Gila River Arts & Crafts Center. This part of the day was absolutely neglected in the original post. I visited Google to learn more about the museum and gift shop but information about this place is next to non-existent. It turns out that the building was razed not too long after my visit and while the plot of land was scheduled to have something new built there, that is yet to materialize.

Gila River Arts & Crafts in Sacaton, Arizona

The Gila River Japanese Internment Camp has been off-limits to visitors for a long time, and even had it been open, there’s very little left aside from some foundations, but the exhibit here at the center was well presented. There’s the Huhugam Heritage Center in nearby Chandler, run by the Gila River Indian community. Maybe the exhibit ended up there, but their brief opening hours (six hours over the course of three weekdays) make it nearly impossible to visit with Caroline. Add to this, there are no photos allowed in the museum.

Gila River Arts & Crafts in Sacaton, Arizona

Sadly, I’ve rarely been able to bring myself to buy anything at these places as one never knows what is made for mass consumption in other countries and what’s stylized in such a way to make a purchase more palatable to the tourists, and so I simply don’t want any Native American artifacts that we’re not purchasing as art. Caroline does recall that I brought home several types of tepary beans, though.

Gila River Arts & Crafts in Sacaton, Arizona

And that was my day of wandering around things that all go away.

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 1

Jessica Wise and John Wise in Arizona

Time for some father-daughter bonding, so Jessica and I headed out on the road to torture each other. I mean, seriously, who travels with their 17-year-old kid when said kid actually wants to spend time with a parent? I always thought this was anathema to the very ideas of freedom. And it’s not like we haven’t had a rocky past where Mr. Opinionated A-Hole made his fragile progeny weep giant tears of hurt.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

But here we are all the same, just the two of us testing one another to see who will crack out a giant desiccated car-length turd of despair. This example log at Petrified Forest National Park may not have been a tree at all and could seriously be a T-Rex BM back in the day when Father Tiny-Arms attempted to visit the Grand Canyon but got so pinched in the tension of such an ordeal that this happened.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Of course, I’m just kidding. My heart is not made of stone, and I’m sure hers is not either, though her mother sent me this image claiming it is, in fact, a fairly accurate representation of that cold thing beating in her chest. What I didn’t laugh at was her claim that she’d inherited from me.

Jessica Wise at Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Jeez, we only made it to the north side of the park before I had to push Jessica over a cliff. How she caught that pole is beyond me. I guess if she’s old enough to be heading off to the Navy, she’s old enough to have been practicing pole skills. Oh, did I forget to share that? Jessica needed me to sign off on her early enrollment to join the military, and after a minute of trying to dissuade her, her argument was too strong to ignore. Her reasoning was something like this, “I don’t know what I want to do, and I don’t want to end up pregnant or on drugs, which seem to be the options out here in Florence, Texas.” Well, how do you argue with that?

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Next, I tried the old trick that I’d hidden her birthday present out in the maze and all she needed to do was to brave the heat and hellish sun exposure and start hunting for it. I insisted there was a cash element to it, but she wasn’t biting. I think she knew by this time I would drive away.

Jessica Wise at Window Rock, Arizona (Navajo Nation)

But then there she is, putting on that cute “I’m seriously nice, Dad, but you have issues” smile, and I give in to allowing her to eat. My daughter is a vegetarian, yet another reason to leave her by the side of the road.

Jessica Wise and Colorado State Sign

Jessica exclaims, “What am I supposed to do, just pose here or something?” I responded with, “Look behind you; you are on Highway 666, which seems an appropriate place for the spawn of some evil like you to find your way. I’ll just tell Caroline you got cold feet about the Navy and decided to go nomad.”

Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

This is turning out more difficult than I thought, as even up here in the mountain retreat of Mesa Verde National Park, she wouldn’t believe me that her room for the night was in a kiva on the other side of the wall. It’s not that I don’t cherish my daughter, but you’ve never smelled her feet, and if we get to a motel tonight, I’m going to suffer in inhuman ways unimaginable to others. Guys have feet like hers (including the incredible size; I swear if she were shorter, she’d be a hobbit). Her feet are of the kind where you ask people to take their shoes off outside and wash those mosquito attractors before entering the room or just leave them sealed up in their shoes that are probably growing to their feet anyway.

Sunset in Colorado

Wow, we made it to the world’s cheapest motel I could find in Cortez, Colorado. This remnant of dryas would have provided more loft under our heads than the pillows we were given. To add insult to injury, I found us a Chinese restaurant to “dine” at. Anyone who’s traveled America’s minor roads knows, “Never go to a Chinese restaurant in a city under 150,000 people,” and here in Cortez, the population doesn’t even hit 8,500. You wanted vegetarian food, it’s this or Arby’s.

Pow Wow and Diwali

Pow Wow in Mesa, Arizona

Our visit to the 20th Annual Mesa Pow Wow was a great treat as it did not require us to visit a remote reservation for a day of cultural celebration.

Pow Wow in Mesa, Arizona

This festival is held at Pioneer Park on Main Street in Mesa on Saturday and Sunday. With approximately 100 Native American vendors selling art, crafts, t-shirts, food, and various other items, there are quite a few things to check out.

Pow Wow in Mesa, Arizona

The music and dance are major parts of this festival, with dances including the Fancy War Dance, Grass Dance, Southern Straight, Northern Traditional for men, and Fancy Shawl/Jingle Dress, Cloth/Buckskin Northern, and Cloth/Buckskin Southern for women, along with special dances for the Tiny Tots.

Diwali Greeting in Phoenix, Arizona

Happy Diwali…

Sonal Patel on Diwali at Indo Euro Foods in Phoenix, Arizona

….from Sonal Patel at Indo Euro Foods and all of her friends helping celebrate this Hindu festival of lights.