Glacier to Yellowstone – Day 3

Caroline Wise and John entering Glacier National Park in Montana for the first time

We are close to our destination of reaching the Canadian border, but we first have to deal with a National Park in our way and apparently also have to contend with an encounter with the sun.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Going-to-the-Sun Road is an imaginatively named road that elicits dreams of moving into the heavens. First, we will have many miles that need to be covered to reach such lofty heights. Lake McDonald in the early morning makes for a beautiful sight.

Glacier National Park in Montana

If we have to stop every five minutes to gawk at the scenery, we’ll never make it to either Canada or the Sun.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Where water flows, so do our emotions, and from them, an outpouring of not only love of place but the reinforcement of love between each other. Our profound luck to be first-hand witnesses to such spectacular places is a kind of magic we find inexplicable but will hopefully continue to experience well into the future.

Glacier National Park in Montana

That tiny scar across those steep slopes is the road we’ve been traveling on our way to the Sun.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Wow, somebody broke out the beauty stick and beat this part of the Earth hard.

Mountain Goats in Glacier National Park in Montana

I can’t help but see momma goat on the right seeming to be stepping out of her winter coat. At this point, we were on the other side of the Logan Pass Visitor Center, starting our exploration of the eastern side of Glacier National Park.

Glacier National Park in Montana

We must be getting close to the Sun as its reflections are becoming ever more impressive. If I’m not mistaken this is Saint Mary Lake.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Some will stop for squirrels or bears; I’m all about the thistle.

Glacier National Park in Montana

Maybe we are shortchanging Glacier National Park with a brief half-day visit?

Glacier National Park in Montana

Swiftcurrent Lake on the Continental Divide Trail in an area called Many Glacier. Now I’m certain we will not be able to give this park its due. With such a short season, this park will be difficult to visit again.

Glacier National Park in Montana

This park is a place where every corner and hillside offers a vastly different view of what you thought you were just looking at. It’s a bit of a fool’s paradise for photographers where getting lost in snapping more than you are experiencing is a real risk.

Montana

Sure, we took the obligatory photos at the Canada frontier sign and again at the “Welcome to Montana” sign for those traveling south, but those selfies were weak compared to this beautiful shot of a dramatic sky and weathered barn set in the green grass surrounded by cragged mountains. Matter of fact, we went so far that we were on the other side of the “Leaving America” sign, and upon seeing the long line of traffic to cross into Canada, we changed our mind about stepping into the Great White North and made a U-turn. We still have to go through U.S. Customs even though we’ve not left America, as the border control agents couldn’t see that we’d never left. So the obligatory moment of tension mounts as we wonder if our names have somehow shown up on some list that mandates that we are border bait for a cavity search. Fortunately, we had digital pictures that showed us just minutes before on the American side and had, in fact, not been in Canada, so after a minute or two with our friendly border agent, we were allowed to proceed.

Museum of the Plains in Browning, Montana

In Browning, Montana, we needed to stop in at the Museum of the Plains Indian to learn something more about the indigenous people that once enjoyed the lands of their ancestors without the interference of those who would rather they live somewhere else, such as on the moon. The contrast between the art of Native Americans who lived in Pueblos and those who lived on the Plains is stark.

Museum of the Plains in Browning, Montana

Both historic and contemporary arts and crafts are on display here. Too bad no in-residence Native Americans are sponsored here to help us visitors learn something more about the Blackfeet, Crow, Northern Cheyenne, Sioux, Assiniboine, Arapaho, Shoshone, Nez Perce, Flathead, Chippewa, and Cree cultures that are represented here.

Montana

I see it, too, off in the distance, way out there….. Being out here on the Great Plains is a terrific contrast to the canyons, mountains, and forests that we traveled through on our way north.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Roosevelt Entrance at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

It’s YELLOWSTONE! Not just once in a lifetime, not even twice, but a third visit is in order, even if it’s a fraction of the time of our previous outings.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Fourth of July long weekend you can rest assured that finding lodging in the park would be a long shot. Even finding something outside of the park wasn’t that easy, and apparently, we got one of the last two rooms available in Gardiner, which is just outside the park over in Montana. Here we are at the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces, and this, at least for today, will have to be the extent of our time in the park as it’s getting dark.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Hot water, minerals, and plants that thrive in this chemical soup may not be everybody’s cup of tea, hmmm, probably be a horrible-tasting cup of tea, come to think about it, but Caroline and I enjoy every single proverbial drop of it.

Caroline Wise at Helen's Corral in Gardiner, Montana

We ate bison burgers at this little joint called Helen’s Corral a few years ago and are enjoying it a second time while reminiscing about our previous visits to Yellowstone and that Caroline’s mom was here with us on our last excursion into this corner of America. Tomorrow brings nearly a full day of revisiting some familiar places. We can’t wait.

Tubac to Tumacácori – Solo

Tubac, Arizona

Arturito has enjoyed his time hanging out with us for some travel and once again asked if he could join me on a visit down south. Today’s destination after my detour through Tucson is Tubac.

Tubac, Arizona

Tubac is looking more and more like an alternative to Sedona and Bisbee as a serious art colony. This is a nice place to visit, though, here in the middle of June; I guess with the snowbirds all having returned to Minnesota and other points back east and the threat of Arizona’s scorching heat, it’s a bit quiet down here right now.

Printing Press in Tubac, Arizona

Wow, this is the printing press that published Arizona’s first-ever newspaper. The Tubac Presidio State Historic Park is a treasure well worth a visit, and it’s where I found the press.

Tumacacori in Tubac, Arizona

Welcome to the Tumacácori National Historical Park which’s just a few miles south of Tubac. This old mission was gutted over time, but it’s still interesting to visit.

Tumacacori in Tubac, Arizona

Not sure what happened to the altar. I’ll need to bring Caroline back so we can investigate this together and learn what is to be known beyond simply taking photos of this spot on the map of history.

Tumacacori in Tubac, Arizona

Nothing is quite as nice as an oasis in the desert for offering a respite from the hostility of the larger desert that surrounds us. No wonder Tubac is an up-and-coming destination.

Crown King to Montezuma Well – Solo

Road to Crown King, Arizona

Up into the mountains, it should be cooler there. This exit to Bumble Bee and Crown King is about an hour north of us and is one of the nearby areas we’ve never explored.

Road to Crown King, Arizona

The drive to Crown King is about 28 miles of dirt road that leads into the Bradshaw Mountains. Along the way, I pass abandoned buildings and mining equipment.

Crown King, Arizona

After a lot of dust and a few switchbacks, I arrive on this sky island up at about 5,700 feet of elevation. It’s certainly cooler up here, but there’s nothing to do. Don’t need anything from the general store, not going to the saloon, who needs a gift, and I don’t have a quad to go exploring the local forest. While Crown King is certainly beautiful, I think this will be my first and last visit.

Grasshopper at Montezuma Well in Rimrock, Arizona

Hmmm, maybe our car dying was a part of the apocalypse because it seems the locusts are starting to take over. Then again, I am prone to looking for drama.

Montezuma Well in Rimrock, Arizona

While I first visited Montezuma Castle back in the early 1980’s I’ve never been to Montezuma Well. The Sinagua that took this as their home grabbed some prime real estate here on the cliffside, as right below them is a small lake.

Montezuma Well in Rimrock, Arizona

Actually, this “small lake” is a natural spring that is fed by a 1,500,000-gallon underground supply.

Butterfly at Montezuma Well in Rimrock, Arizona

And butterflies, too. Alright, I’ve seen enough to know I have to bring Caroline back to Montezuma Well. The day trip is over; time to head back to Phoenix.

New Mexico Missions to Bandelier – Day 2

For everything modernity has wrought and all of our technological convenience, humanity will never improve upon the sunrise and sunset. We may excel on the small scale and even one day destroy on a larger scale, but nature is the true master of that which boggles the senses with the profound.

Bandelier National Monument is our first stop today on our exploration weekend of all things Native American. Many of the dwellings here were carved out of the relatively soft tuft. The area was ultimately abandoned around 1600 AD, with the inhabitants moving towards the Rio Grande, joining the Pueblo communities of Cochiti and San Ildefonso.

I don’t think I’m wrong, but I do believe this will be the first time Caroline or I have ever been able to visit a reconstructed Kiva.

Our imaginations will have to fill the gaps of what the environment may have been like when Kachina ceremonies were being observed. What were the sounds, language, smells, shadows, ceremonial clothing, masks, and paint that all came together to tell the story of the moment?

This northwest corner of New Mexico is a diverse one with many contrasts.

San José de Los Jémez Mission is not far from Bandelier and was more or less on our way to Albuquerque, where we had one more historic Native American visit to make.

It’s our goal to snap a photo of us in front of as many National Park and Monument signs as we can; often, they are not worth sharing on the blog here, but we have them. As we age, we’ll have these at our disposal to prove to ourselves that, at one time, we really did go to all the places we claim or have forgotten.

We are on the edge of Albuquerque, and literally down the hill, we can see a newer subdivision of homes that crawls ever closer to displacing more Native American history. Fortunately, for now sites like this under the protection of the National Park Service offer some chance for survival.

Sites such as this Giant Tee Pee in Lupton, Arizona, could be disappearing as travel demographics and the desire for these novelties wane. Maybe nostalgia will help them hold on, but from our recent encounter with neglect and abandonment, as we’d seen in Bowie, Arizona, there’s little hope that these one-time icons will survive.

That’s Flagstaff in the distance, which, if you know your geography, means that we are on Interstate 40 driving west and that most likely, either there or maybe in Holbrook, we’ll turn left and head south back towards Phoenix.

Southern Arizona

Coronado National Monument in Hereford, Arizona

Our friends in Tucson, Arturo, and Guadalupe, have three children: two young girls and their son, who is about to leave for college. While this young man’s name is Arturo, too, we call him Arturito, though, on occasion, I’ll call him Artoodeetoo. He’s known us since about 1998 and had recently voiced an interest in taking a road trip with us. So, seeing we were taking a day trip around the southern end of the state, we asked him if he’d like to join us today, and on the way through Tucson, we stopped and picked him up. Our first stop was some sightseeing at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona, which is 90 miles southwest of Tucson, close to the Mexican border.

Coronado National Monument in Hereford, Arizona

While I could be mistaken, I think we are looking at Mexico in the distance.

Caroline Wise, Arturo Silva, and John Wise at Chiricahua National Monument in Willcox, Arizona

The kid is camera shy, and it took some serious cajoling to get him to join our photo. Now, at Chiricahua National Monument in Willcox, we are again about 90 miles from our last location. Do you see a pattern? Was it planned?

Chiricahua National Monument in Willcox, Arizona

So far, our investigation into places we’ve not been before is suggesting that Chiricahua is a location we must come back to.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Fort Bowie National Historic Site in Bowie, Arizona

Oh well, we are only 19 miles from Chiricahua so I won’t be able to pull that one on you that all of our stops today are 90 miles apart.

Fort Bowie National Historic Site in Bowie, Arizona

Fort Bowie was opened in 1862 and abandoned not too long after that in 1894. The Fort played a role in the fight with the Chihuahuas, while its most famous prisoner was Geronimo himself. As you can see for yourself, there’s not a lot left out here.

Yucca Lodge Motel in Bowie, Arizona

Who knows the last time this old motel in Bowie saw guests? At one time, Bowie was an important stop on the American experience for people traveling across the states where the Yucca Lodge Motel on the corner of Lincoln and Highway 86 (now the 10 Business Loop) was competing with Home on the Range Motel just across the street on the opposite corner. Another block up the street, you could get a bite to eat at Geronimo’s Castle Cafe, which was shaped like a teepee; it’s still there, but it’s closed too. The town had one last hurrah when, in Rambo Part 2, it was divulged that John Rambo (played by Sylvester Stallone) was from Bowie, Arizona. Happy Memorial Day!

Montezuma Castle to Tuzigoot

Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Camp Verde, Arizona

This was a solo trip up north and back for me today. The first stop was Montezuma Castle National Monument in Camp Verde, which, if I’m not mistaken, was the first place in the National Park system I visited as a young adult back in late 1980 or early 1981 after I first moved to Arizona. While this cliff dwelling is not appropriately named, at least it is protected. The original inhabitants of this five-story, twenty-room abode were thought to be the Sinagua people related to the Hohokam. It’s estimated that it was inhabited between 1100 and 1425 AD.

Ants at Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Camp Verde, Arizona

Funny how we only ever see ants in the light of day, but a good part of their life is spent underground in pitch-black tunnels where the ant metropolis hums away, caring for the colony.

Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Camp Verde, Arizona

This is Beaver Creek and was a major contributing factor to how the inhabitants of Montezuma Castle were able to establish a settlement here in this part of the desert.

Tuzigoot National Monument in Clarkdale, Arizona

Thirty minutes up the road and off the Verde River is Tuzigoot National Monument, another Native American dwelling in ruins.