John Hernon – Former Alcatraz Prison Guard

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Attention: These posts following our coastal Christmas-thru-New-Year’s trip are named a bit specifically, that’s because when these were originally shared, they only had one photo each due to bandwidth limitations back in the day. Since that time, I’ve updated them to include images that relate to the details of each day.

Today, Caroline and I visited Alcatraz Island for the first time. Great place, well, as long as you are coming and leaving of your own free will. On the ride over to the island, the last man to get on the ferry was an elderly gentleman who wore a National Park Volunteer patch sewn onto his hat. I’ll introduce him to you later.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

There’s nothing here that hasn’t been shown a thousand times before. I’ll bet a million people a year take this exact photo.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

But then again, from the state of some of the ruins and the proclivity of the area being prone to earthquakes, maybe much of this will fall to the wayside someday.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Why is it always the places forbidden to us that hold the greatest interest for me and where I’d like to wander?

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

And who placed a key in the lock and closed this iron door for the last time?

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

It’s a strange idea that, at one time, this little walkway was once part of the path of freedom. People who worked on the island moved within the manicured landscape with walkway lights and housing on the bay with some of the best views.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

While prisoners behind bars might hear the ocean and smell the ocean, only rarely would they see the ocean.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

In their regimented universe in which these abominations to public safety were warehoused, a club of felons established their own government with rules that survived within the captivity of other men with equally harsh rules. But for all the discipline an incarcerated man can bring to bear while in prison, it’s ironic that they weren’t able to live on the outside with a similar set of guidelines.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

What the National Park Service here at Alcatraz can never share with visitors is what it sounded like back during the days when Al Capone called this home.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Five feet wide and nine feet long with a ceiling just seven feet overhead, this is where some of the worst of the worst lived and died.

Caroline Wise, John Hernon, and John Wise at Alcatraz Prison in San Francisco, California

About that volunteer who boarded with us, it turns out this guy was a prison guard while Alcatraz was still operating. Now 84 years old, John Hernon visits the island at least once a month to break out of the routine and tell some of us lucky tourists stories of his time on the Rock. He enjoys having his picture taken, unlike Sean Penn, who we ran into on New Year’s Eve at a small burger joint. He promptly gave me the finger as I raised my camera – no, I didn’t take a picture of him or his finger.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

The kitchen looks as though you could put it back to work today.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Back in early 1963, the prison was closed and started to fall into decay. Ten years later, the island prison became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area with things starting to be stabilized. Finally, in 1986, the island was opened to visitors.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

I’d like to believe that guards had cushy jobs out here, but it can get cold and windy out on San Francisco Bay; I’m pretty sure those guard shacks were not heated back in 1934 when the prison was first opened.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Remnants of an old history are tossed everywhere, in the surf, too.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

So much of the island is off-limits to us visitors; I’m certain it’s all the most interesting stuff, too. We could have explored the island and what’s left of the buildings all day, but our time was over too soon.

Street Musician in San Francisco, California

This is Michael Masley, known as The Artist General. He’s on the street playing his Cymbalom, and you bet we bought a CD from him. Amazing watching and listening to this man play his unique instrument.

Caroline Wise at the Original Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop in San Francisco, California

With plenty of time before dinner, it was a great idea to grab a tiny snack at the Original Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop. Why split a sundae when you can have two, along with a hot chocolate? Okay, one of those hot fudge sundaes was mine.

Maritime Museum in San Francisco, California

After our ice cream indulgence, it was a short walk to the Maritime Museum for a quick tour.

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships in San Francisco, California

And not far away, well just across the street really, are the Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships.

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships in San Francisco, California

This photo was taken on the Eureka, a 19th-century paddle steamboat.

San Francisco, California

We weren’t about to eat a thing here at Fishermans Wharf as we had bigger and better plans.

Millennium Restaurant in San Francisco, California

We had reservations for Millennium Restaurant, a vegan affair created by chef Eric Tucker. If I could employ this amazing chef to cook for Caroline and me in Phoenix, I’d convert to veganism in a second. Our rather pricey dinner here was one of the best meals I’ve ever enjoyed.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Leaving Las Cruces, New Mexico at dawn

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; the bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Up early Saturday morning for the 188-mile (304km) drive that passes through Texas and back into New Mexico.

Ruin in New Mexico

Welcome to Salt Flat, Texas. This is about all that’s left.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park in New Mexico

Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We reached Carlsbad Caverns quickly enough, and like Jutta’s and my trip here a week ago, a single bat was on the wall to greet us as we entered its domain.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We hoped to enter the cave through the Natural Entrance, which can’t be a given and depends on if my mother-in-law feels she has the stamina. Fortunately for us today, this is how we entered the cave.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Having just photographed the cave a week prior, I wasn’t sure if I would find any new angles to share, but here goes.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

While the cave system feels huge, it also feels rather compact as the paved walkway twists and turns so much that you never really know where you are.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

The trail is 1.25 miles long with an elevation gain or loss of 750 feet, though somehow it doesn’t feel like that at all, probably because your senses are tuned to taking in as much as possible.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

While this cave is astonishing, there’s much gone and broken as when it was first discovered; people didn’t know anything at all about the fragility, age, or health of an ecosystem that might be still evolving in this now mostly dead cave. Of course, we wouldn’t be able to enjoy it quite the same without the great lighting and pathways, but it sure would have been great to see and hear the cave while water was still actively forming these ribbons, stalagmites, stalactites, and other formations that boggle the mind.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Like organic creatures, these formations could have been considered lungs, and if you’d told me that, I might have believed you.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After descending about halfway, we detoured from the Big Room so we could make our reservations for the King’s Palace Tour at 3:00 p.m. Finishing the King’s Palace, we re-entered the Big Room to finish the trail we skipped earlier.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

What photos came from the main cave area or the King’s Palace are lost to time; suffice it to say that they are all from Carlsbad Caverns.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just stop and think about this: all of this rock used to be a solid structure until groundwater dripped through the earth, carving out the limestone.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But as where rivers scrape clean the surfaces they run over, these waters leach minerals carrying them along to form what we see here today.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Somewhere in our vicinity is the Lechuguilla Cave system, which is still very much alive but it’s off-limits to all but scientists and park personnel.

John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Jutta Engelhardt at the bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

With barely enough time to get good seats at the Natural Entrance amphitheater, our explorations ended with us watching the Bat Flight  – more than 350,000 bats making their way out of the cave’s Natural Entrance tornado-style for a night of bug munching.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Afterward, we felt like munching on something as well and headed to Carlsbad for dinner at Chili’s, one of the few eateries still open at 9.30 PM.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park – Day 4

Jutta Engelhardt in Roswell, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Wow, I was wrong about where we were going to be last night! We ended up at the Sands Motel in Portales, New Mexico. From there, it was only 90 miles over to the Nuthin Fancy Cafe in Roswell, New Mexico, for breakfast. If you think my mother-in-law had any interest in visiting the world-famous UFO Museum and Research Center, you’d be nuts; this lady came out of having survived World War II in Germany and could give 2 cents of concern about some crazy idea that a UFO landed nearby. Yeah, I thought the same thing, “Your loss old lady.”

Jutta Engelhardt at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We made our way to Carlsbad Caverns National Park instead because in America’s natural wonders, Jutta has a big interest.

Oh, look, it’s the Cave Door Greeter, kind of like the human equivalent at Walmart or Costco.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After selling my mother-in-law on how great the slow trail through the Natural Entrance to the Big Room is, she agreed to go for a little walk.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Caroline and I have already visited Carlsbad Caverns on three previous visits in 1998, 1999, and 2002; I hadn’t anticipated that I’d still be able to appreciate it as much as I am.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There’s one thing missing as Jutta and I make our way into the cave: the chatter of her and Caroline nattering on in German about what they are looking at.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are eight more images from inside the cave following this one; you can rest assured that I feel like deleting all of them and cutting to the juicy bits that will follow later in the evening.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But I love these photos, even if they are only 8 megapixels each.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

These contrasting colors and various rock types, many of them coated in the frozen minerals leached out of the surrounding earth, make for striking images and are on a scale that makes one feel like the puny little human one is.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are three other visitable caves nearby, including Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Slaughter Canyon Cave, that we’ve yet to visit. I think we need to better plan our spontaneous trips.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just imagine what these might have looked like when water was flowing over them. Over at nearby Lechuguilla Cave, one might see it (if they are a scientist and can wait years for permission after convincing the park service that their research is worthy and they have the requisite skills for serious caving).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Of course, one could visit Kartchner Caverns in Benson, Arizona, to see a living cave system, but with their no-photography rules I fail to understand the attraction fully. I need photos, or we were never there.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We actually have been to Kartchner because when I bought tickets they didn’t tell me ahead of time that photography wasn’t allowed. I can’t even remember what I saw as my jaw was clenched down so tightly that it apparently obscured my vision and erased my memory. Now consider this view of yet another psychedelic chamber: I know I was here, right here at the spot where this photo was taken, and that makes this place sit in my memories for years, and if ever I need a reminder, I just look back to these days and revel in the experiences we’ve been able to obtain.

[Or could it be that you have no memory of Kartchner because the cave tour itself felt very short, the bats were off lounging in Mexico, and the seeming majority of our visit was spent looking at some light show accompanied by new-agey music? – Caroline]

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

No tripod, handheld, not the best ISO, and still, I managed to snap off three portrait images of this giant cascade to stitch into a panorama.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Those are soda straw formations and represent the end of our self-guided tour of Carlsbad, well, the caverns anyway; there’s more to come above ground.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

At dusk, you might be so lucky, depending on the time of year, that you too can witness the Bat Flyout. My mother-in-law had one word to describe this phenomenon, “Sagenhaft,” which translates to fabulous or amazing.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

Sadly, the bats missed this cockroach, probably because it and a bevy of its friends were camping out in what can easily be described as the worst room ever in any of the cheap motels we’ve sunk to staying in.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This one, though, will not be stayed in. It took everything in my power to remain in this room to take these photos.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

So disgusting it was I didn’t even bother to haggle about a refund; I simply wanted my mother-in-law and me to put as many miles between us and this shithole as quickly as possible. Sadly, this was the only motel in Las Cruces that had availability, which meant that though it was approaching midnight, we’d have to tough it out for another hour until we reached Deming, New Mexico, with fingers crossed we’d find a room

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

While it might be difficult to make out, I believe this is the outline of a dead body and the single greatest contributing factor as to why this room smells something worse than hell.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

I’m still trying to figure out what happened to the curtains.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This was that place of nope, the Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Seriously, nothing compares to this in all of our travels.

Canyon de Chelly

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Disclaimer: This post was updated in October 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; most of the details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Sure, it’s a cliche that perspective changes everything, but it was just yesterday that we were looking down in the canyon, and somehow, I missed that it was this wet down here. I can’t believe we are finally visiting Canyon de Chelly properly. Our tour was arranged through Thunderbird Lodge, where we were staying.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

We knew that we’d be visiting the White House Ruin today, but that there would be a number of cliff dwelling sites for us to see came as a surprise. I was just pondering what it is that I find so intriguing about southwest Native American historic sites compared to European ones, and I guess it comes down to the mystery of knowing so little. Allowing the imagination to wander instead of having concrete images and texts lends to this sense of curiosity, and then there’s the idea that Native Americans might know something about their ancestors that they’ve not shared, which only adds to the allure.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Sure, it’s just more of the stream we are driving through that’s not deep enough for any kind of boat, but I’m seriously enchanted by this red, green, and blue landscape being traveled through on the water.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

I’m starting to get the sense that Canyon de Chelly was a metropolis back in its day.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

If there was any doubt as to why we couldn’t bring our own cars back here, those have now been dispelled. We should also hope that no one ever has the idea of paving a way into this canyon.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Those are the pictographs and petroglyphs that the following site is named after.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

These are the Antelope House Ruins of the Ancestral Puebloan culture, formerly known as the Anasazi. I wish we could get closer to have a better look at the original plaster that still holds fast to the kiva wall in front of us, as though it would somehow convey its secrets to me if only I were inches from it.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Look at the figure on the right; I think Robert Crumb stole the idea for Mr. Natural from this panel!

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle, Arizona

There had to be at least one selfie here to prove we were the ones on this epic journey, it also makes for a nice reminder of our time shared with Caroline’s mom.

Whitehouse Ruin at Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

This is the White House Ruin in Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona. The building in the back is the namesake of this particular location. Should I ever be so lucky to return here, I’ll bring my 70-200mm lens to try grabbing a better image of it as after I got home and zoomed into this image, I could see writings on the walls, and while I can guess that they are from people moving through the area about 100 years ago, I’d still like to see more details. Interestingly enough, I cannot find any close-up photos of that building.

White House Ruin in Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Arizona

White House Ruin, too, but a better overview of the complex; of note, this was about as close as we were allowed to get.

Caroline Wise flying a kite on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Every so often, Caroline remembers to bring a kite with us on the off chance she finds a windy enough place to take it airborne. We are still on the Navajo Reservation but are heading in the general direction that will take us home after our next stop.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

We are at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado, Arizona.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

This guest hogan is not visitable unless you are invited as an artist in residency; what a crazy honor that would be.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The old kitchen in the private home of John Lorenzo Hubbell who purchased the trading post out front back in 1878.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And this is the dining room where the Hubbells would have taken their meals.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

One of the seven bedrooms in the Hubbell home.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The portrait is of J.L. Hubbell, which seems to be how he was known then, and above on the ceiling are Navajo baskets hung upside down.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And finally, the main entrance to the residence.

Montezuma’s Castle to Meteor Crater

Jutta Engelhardt at Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Arizona

With Caroline back at work, Jutta and I took off for a day trip north. Our first stop was Montezuma’s Castle National Monument.

The cliff dwelling high on a sheer rock face known as Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Arizona

I stitched 14 images together to create a detailed look at the cliff dwelling. The image on my computer is 11,255 x 5,239 pixels in dimension. Tours are not offered of this fragile monument, so the best one can do to see more details is either bring binoculars or take a super hi-res photo.

The cliff dwelling high on a sheer rock face known as Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Arizona

So you can have a better sense of just where this precarious cliffside castle is situated.

Jutta Engelhardt in Leupp, Arizona

Without much of a plan, we continued north until reaching Leupp, where we stopped for lunch at a roadside stand selling mutton stew – a Navajo favorite.

Leupp, Arizona

Those snow-capped peaks on the left are next to Flagstaff, but that’s not the reason for the photo; my mother-in-law has rarely seen Navajo cowboys on her visits to America.

Donkeys near Leupp, Arizona

I guess they’re not totally wild donkeys, as I don’t think they’d approach us if they were.

Meteor Crater Natural Landmark in Winslow, Arizona

Our last stop on this impromptu journey was Meteor Crater near Winslow, Arizona.