Thanksgiving 2004 – Day 1

Rhyolite Ghost Town in California

Yesterday at 3:00 p.m., we left Phoenix via Wickenburg, Kingman, and drove to Las Vegas in Nevada before continuing northeast to Beatty, where we spent the night at the El Portal Motel for only $38. Sometime after Las Vegas, we were pulled over out in the middle of nowhere. Turns out that the road I chose to relieve myself had some kind of military secrecy thing, and the last place I should be dealing with my bladder is on this road off the freeway. There was no ticket, just a stern warning to move along quickly.

We were staying in Beatty so we could visit the Rhyolite ghost town and head through Death Valley National Park for a second time this year.

Death Valley National Park in California

Our plan is to cut through the park and head north at Olancha and then take the road over Yosemite from Lee Vining and maybe stay the night in Modesto, California.

Death Valley National Park in California

Can one ever experience enough Death? I mean Death Valley. This is our third visit and we are far from bored and feel we’ve barely scratched the surface of being able to claim we’ve really seen this national park.

Death Valley National Park in California

Spending a bit more time exploring the sand dunes as that’s the easiest and quickest thing we can do, seeing we are only supposed to be passing through.

Death Valley National Park in California

Remnants of trees are an intriguing sign of life when everywhere else we look, we see sand, salt, and scrub brush.

Death Valley National Park in California

How many other visitors feel kind of guilty about walking over dunes where there are no other footprints? Their pristine appearance should be left in perfection so the next visitor can experience how cool they look, but then we might as well just look at this stuff from the car. So we accept our destructive actions and trod on the virgin sand.

Death Valley National Park in California

Dried mudflats are almost like cement or maybe more like cobblestones.

Death Valley National Park in California

Got stuck at Stovepipe Wells talking with a guy who was working in the gift store about his years spent working in Yellowstone before moving out to Death Valley. Maybe someday we’ll be able to spend more than a week or so at Yellowstone.

Death Valley National Park in California

How much water was pooled here that left the earth so compacted? And who was so lucky to have been here to see the mountains and deep blue skies reflected in the pool?

Death Valley National Park in California

Not a blade of dead grass nor the remains of a bush offer evidence that anything here ever grows.

California central valley

Well, this is a wicked turn of events that testifies to some serious poor trip planning on my account. In Olancha we learn that the road we intended to travel over Yosemite is closed for the season due to heavy snow that collects up that way. We’re told that the mountain passes north of that may be closed or require chains, so we might want to consider an alternate route.

California central valley

Our adjusted plans take us south towards Kernville, where we can head west for a 200-mile drive across the Central Valley. This “lake” is irrigated land somewhere out here in the middle of California where so very much of our food is grown.

This being Thursday and Thanksgiving day, we decided to call it an early day and call it quits in King City. Spent the night at the Sage Motel for only $35 after having a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner at a place lost in time that we forgot to note.

4th of July – Day 6

Mono Lake in California

We got into Lee Vining, California, last night after midnight, which put us in the perfect spot to head up the mountain to Yosemite National Park or across the road to Mono Lake. We obviously chose the lake.

Mono Lake in California

We are out on the South Tufa Trail, but with over 650 miles to drive today and the need to be back in Phoenix, Arizona, tonight, we can’t fool around, and we’re soon driving away from Mono Lake.

Silver Lake on State Route 158 in California

Okay, so maybe we have time for one detour. On a side road that is only a tiny bit out of the way, we pass Silver Lake and are happy we did, as this side of the highway is totally different than the other side.

Oh, we are so close to Mammoth, we should go up and visit the Devils Postpile National Monument! Until we get up the mountain and find out we have to wait for a shuttle to take us to the monument; little had we anticipated that even in summer, Mammoth is a popular destination, and what else is there to do up here when you can’t ski than drag your kids to the nearest national monument? Fully discouraged by the crowds I needed to escape this mountain asap.

Erick Schat's Bakkery in Bishop, California

Nothing like a bakery to soothe frayed nerves, except this is likely California’s second busiest bakery, the first one being the madhouse called Boudin Bakery in San Francisco, which is famous for its sourdough. Well, crowded or not, I have to get something here in Bishop, as the Erick Schat Bakkerÿ with the middle name “Schat” talks to my inner 14-year-old so like peeing in Santa Claus (Indiana) back on our year 2000 cross-country trip, I need to eat some baked schat and that’s that.

Death Valley Rd from Bishop into the National Park in California

Hey, I have a great idea to delay our seriously long drive home; let’s take this back road from Big Pine, California, for 104 miles through a seldom-used and often treacherous trek through the north of Death Valley on a nice summer day in July. A local sheriff at the gas station tried to dissuade us, but we assured him we had enough water and lived in Phoenix, so we knew these temperatures and promised that if the car died, we’d stay in place until our rescue or death from exposure.

Death Valley Rd from Bishop into the National Park in California

Well, it’s just beautiful out here. It’s quiet, too. The road isn’t half bad, but there is nobody else in sight. The temperature is well over 115 degrees and while confident nothing will go wrong, we choose to keep the air conditioning off to help ensure nothing overheats. We’re taking our time and enjoying the rarity of such an experience.

Death Valley Rd from Bishop into the National Park in California

We feel quite alone on this lonely road. Every so often, we stop and get out of the car to look for signs of life and listen for what might be beyond our view, but everything is standing still. Passing through some parts of the road, we get a little nervous as we don’t know how the conditions of what lies ahead might change and require us to turn around in our rental sedan, but we go on, paying close attention to how many miles we are into the park.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Crankshaft Junction in Death Valley National Park, California

I took a number of photos from the open car window of the crankshafts and other assorted car parts here at Crankshaft Crossing when it dawned on me that we needed a selfie to prove that it was Caroline and John Wise who stood here at this remote outpost in Death Valley back on July 6, 2004, when we were young and dumb. It took us nearly 2 hours to reach this point, which is about the halfway point to joining the main road further down the way.

Claim to fame: I posit that this is the first-ever digital selfie taken at Crankshaft Crossing. Prove me wrong.

Death Valley Rd from Bishop into the National Park in California

Wouldn’t you know that the last 10 miles of the road, after hours of dealing with varying degrees of washboard roads and uncertainty, would start making us seriously nervous?

Death Valley National Park, California

What kind of idiot thinks it’s a good idea to take a 4-hour detour on a dangerous road into Death Valley in July? Special idiots, apparently. We reached Furnace Creek, which is 190 feet below sea level, at 3:00 p.m., and it is 118 degrees in the shade.

Death Valley National Park, California

Seeing we’re already here, we should see what else Death Valley has to offer when the park is empty. And what the hell is that 60-something-year-old guy in mini shorts doing running down the road? Are we hallucinating? Was he a mirage? Turns out he might be participating in the Badwater Ultramarathon which is 135 miles long, obviously starting at Badwater, a point 279 feet below sea level, to Whitney Portal on Mt. Whitney at an elevation of 8,360 feet. Who does that? I can tell you that those people are a lot crazier than these two people who took a nice Tuesday afternoon drive across the desert.

Death Valley National Park, California

We didn’t do much out here at the Devils Golf Course besides letting Satan play through.

Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

There’s also that kind of funny moment where I left Caroline out on the fairway and pointed in the general direction of where I’d pick her up over at Badwater. Crawling out of the desert on her hands and knees, I couldn’t help but laugh at how distressed she looked. Trust me, I know she was faking it, but I gave her the water anyway after such a big effort of dragging herself the 11 or so miles to the car.

Joshua Trees in Nevada

Joshua Trees along the highway, while we sped by, were the last thing worth sharing as from the time we left Death Valley just before 6:00 p.m., we needed to just keep driving. Wow, somehow, we got home before midnight. That was one action-packed 4th of July celebration.

4th of July – Day 5

Crater Lake National Park in Oregon

Well, here we are for a return visit to Crater Lake National Park. This good fortune of making follow-up visits seems to be a thing in our lives. There’s no exaggeration when I tell you that never in our wildest dreams did we ever believe we’d be this lucky. But here we are, two years nearly to the day after our first visit, again standing on the rim of this ancient volcano looking into the deepest blue waters either of us has ever seen.

Caroline Wise at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon

We never expected this much snow at this time of year; this is crazy. So are the mosquitoes feasting on Caroline – so bad that we stopped at the visitors center to buy some “scented” repellent, but it seems there’s just no way of making DEET pleasant to the nose. Good thing it works, and good thing we don’t want children as this stuff is wicked evil.

I don’t know how many other times I’ve mentioned this (probably dozens), but the shirt Caroline is wearing that seems to go on all of our travels is effectively Caroline’s wedding dress. To hell with the white dress stuff; this shirt that we picked up at Eurodisney in Paris, France, on her 25th Birthday in 1992 is the one she wore a couple of years later in Las Vegas, Nevada when we were married at the Little White Chapel. Traveling with memories to make new memories that’s how we go down the road of life.

Crater Lake National Park in Oregon

It might be slightly difficult to see in such a wide view, but there’s a small island out there on the left; it’s called the Phantom Ship and stands 170 feet above the lake surface. So consider that the tiny island is actually the height of about a 15-story building and maybe you get an idea of the scale of this ancient crater. Actually, this crater is not all that ancient, as it was created a mere 7,700 years ago.

Crater Lake National Park in Oregon

Deep blue skies, deep blue waters, bright white snow, and cragged cliffs all blur together to create Crater Lake. There’s something otherworldly up here that makes you feel you are at heights never experienced before. The idea that we are only about 110 miles from the Pacific Ocean as the crow flies is difficult to comprehend when the universe up here is in such a contrast to the one below.

Caroline Wise at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon

This is how you make a beautiful site even more so.

On the way out of the national park, we stopped at the Rogue River Gorge viewpoint so Caroline could add these waters to the growing list of places her feet have felt the pulse and flow of another fluid highway. Unable to score some more Tillamook ice cream this far south in Oregon, we felt like we still won as we stopped in Medford for pastries and coffee at our favorite Oregon coffee shop, Dutch Bros.

Mt. Shasta in California

If this is Mount Shasta in California, this must mean we are traveling south and are likely headed home from yet another one of our ridiculous out-and-back marathons.

Lassen Volcanic National Park in California

The day is too beautiful, too perfect, too inviting to just plow through the rest of it so with Lassen Volcanic National Park on the horizon we just had to pass through and hopefully find something or other we could do quickly.

Lassen Volcanic National Park in California

Considering it’s already after 4:00 p.m. when we enter Lassen, we should admit that, in some way, we are moving at an ant’s pace, and maybe we should just embrace that we can’t be rushed.

Lassen Volcanic National Park in California

So if we are going to take our time and accept that we are going to be late by the time we reach Lee Vining, nearly 300 miles south of here, then we’ll do something meaningful. That bit of distraction cost us a couple of hours as we climbed along Kings Creek, which does not require anyone to stand in its rushing waters that cascade down the mountain just feet away from the trail, but this is Caroline, and ice water only adds to the challenge.

Lassen Volcanic National Park in California

Marmots are supposed to talk, or have I watched too many videos where this kind of animal screeches at people or other animals? Or maybe it should stand up and do a chubby rendition of the Hamster Dance!

Lassen Volcanic National Park in California

Just then, Lassen Volcano erupted, killing us instantly. This was the last photo I ever took before my untimely death.

Lassen Volcanic National Park in California

So, while there was zero exaggeration about our passing from this life, we were shortly afterward reincarnated as improved versions of ourselves over at Emerald Lake just before 7:00, a kind of miracle really.

Carson City, Nevada

With the recognition of how lucky the events of the day were, considering we were alive, dead, and alive again, we decided to skip over to the Nugget Casino in Carson City, Nevada, to win big. Now that we’re millionaires and not broken zombies, we’ll live better lives trying to share our good fortune.

4th of July – Day 4

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

We greet ourselves with astonishment that we are so fortunate to visit one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever been to a second time. Who gets this lucky in life? Less than two years ago, we crept down the road for our first visit to a legitimate rainforest, listening to Enya, Brian Eno, and Vangelis.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

Driving in, I spot purple in the sea of green. It’s not hard to make a quick stop when you are only driving five mph. I think this is a Marsh Orchid, though, in reality, I’m not a botanist who really cares what it is beyond its striking characteristics of vibrant, colorful contrast to all that’s around it.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

The visitor center wasn’t open yet when we arrived at the Hall of Mosses Trail, but that didn’t mean the trail was closed. This being summer, we were certain the throngs would be out in force, but it turns out that Hurricane Ridge is the main draw in this massive national park. When we visited this part of the park back in 2002, we left our motel before daybreak to be the first on the trail in order to best experience the quiet and solitude, but it so happened that we were never disturbed. Today is playing out much the same.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

Note to selves: visit in late summer or early fall depending on when the wild berries are edible. A question to ourselves: if we really want to eat wild berries, will we be in competition with bears for one of their food sources?

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

I don’t know what others see in this image, but it looked awfully sensual to Caroline and me, almost naughty really.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

The larger world is so easy to see, but it is what is hidden and small, out of sight, and requiring a closer look that holds an enchantment that I long to want to know, to understand, to go within.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

I should exclaim at some point here an enthusiastic “Happy Independence Day!” as it is the 4th of July in America. While we’ll miss any fireworks displays later today, the spectacle we are able to indulge our senses on both here in the Hoh Rainforest and later at the ocean will make up for missing anything exploded in the night sky with a giant boom.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

I probably should have chosen a lot fewer photos to accompany this blog entry, as our notes about this leg of the trip consisted of a single line entry that noted what time we arrived and left the area. So, the visual narrative will have to suffice where you can deduce that the images are a sequential story that followed our two-hour walk into the rainforest.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

Hall of Mosses now makes all the more sense, though Cave of Mosses would also have worked on this part of the trail.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

Land of Big Trees works occasionally, too. By the way, that tiny blue spot is Caroline, who is standing there for comparison.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

Would you believe this is a giant sandworm? Maybe a wood-colored forest snake? Okay, so the truth is it’s a 2,000-foot-long tree that fell in the last ice age that is a hollowed-out portal to another dimension; maybe not, but it could be.

Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington

Limax Maximus isn’t the greatest superhero name when the two words are used together, but Limax sounds like one of the greatest superhero names to me. A spotted leopard slug, on the other hand, does not sound the least bit super or heroic. Sexy, though, comes to mind because what’s not sexy about slugs?

Ruby Beach in Washington

From spotted slugs to starfish, they could take on an air of unwholesomeness, but your mind would have to be in the gutter. Not that my mind is necessarily in the gutter (though it’s been known to flounder there from time to time), so what I was alluding to is transitioning from the slug to the chocolate starfish. I shouldn’t have gone there, but I did, so that’s that. By the way, we are at Ruby Beach out here on the Washington Coast, and it just so happens to be low tide.

Ruby Beach in Washington

Don’t worry; I know of no way to besmirch the innocent anemone by dragging it into sexual innuendo that puts my immaturity on display. Funny how we’d never ask an anemone to act its age and remain appropriate as it gets away with showing us its anus. Come on now, have you really ever thought about it that the center hole is both its mouth and its butthole? Oh, how I wish I was built the same way.

Ruby Beach in Washington

Right about now, the reader must be wishing their eyes and ears were like these crustaceans, sealed up tightly.

Ruby Beach in Washington

Who’s that knocking at my door?
Said the fair young maiden!

Well, it’s only me from over the sea,
Said Barnacle Bill, the Sailor,
I’m all lit up like a Christmas tree,
Said Barnacle Bill the Sailor.
I’ll sail the sea until I croak,
Drink my whiskey, swear, and smoke,
But I can’t swim a bloody stroke,
Said Barnacle Bill the Sailor.

Of the over 1,200 species of barnacles, it’s probably not a bad thing that when Ballochy Bill The Sailor was adapted to a cleaner version of the song known as Barnacle Bill The Sailor, the writer didn’t know about these acorn barnacles as the song would certainly not had the same cadence and flow. Click the link for the song’s history, and you can read the original lyrics of the raunchier version; seriously, you should read those lyrics.

Ruby Beach in Washington

Can you grow back like a starfish? Do you even know the reference? Try listening to this song from Antony and the Johnsons titled Cripple And The Starfish.

Caroline Wise at Ruby Beach in Washington

It’s sunny when it needs to be, while at other times, a bit of moody, overcast sky sets a tone that paints the environment with the appropriate colors to suit our senses and create just enough magic that makes it all special.

Oregon

It was 2:00 p.m. as we left Aberdeen, Washington. Sadly, our notes point out that we ate at KFC in town, not that Aberdeen has a lot more to offer than that but it’s kind of embarrassing to admit we ate there. Maybe I should also come clean that we once ate at a Taco Bell leaving Death Valley, though we tossed it after a few bites, deciding to wait for something reasonable further down the road. Plus, we had to eat fried chicken in commemoration of Jim Morrison. Are you intrigued why the singer for the Doors inspired this instead of Aberdeen’s most famous resident, Kurt Cobain? Because punk rock and LSD.

Toketee Waterfalls east of Roseburg, Oregon

This is the most unceremonious passing through Oregon EVER! We enter the state on Interstate 5, and nearly without pause, we just drive south. Reaching Roseburg, we turn left as we’re staying at the Featherbed Inn in Chemult, Oregon, but before we get there and with the few remnants of available daylight, we stop at Toketee Falls. From rainforest scenes and marine life at the edge of the sea to a walk in the forest to this waterfall, we cannot complain that this 4th of July was anything other than spectacular.

4th of July – Day 3

Game Ridge Motel Rimrock, Washington

I’m going through the torture of having minimal notes and even a spreadsheet itinerary from this trip over the 4th of July long weekend, but luck or maybe old age would have it that 16 years later, as I try to pull any impressions that were made during this trip, I struggle to find enough details.

So, I end up with relatively weak blog entries where the finer points are slim. In this instance, I’m able to put a shell together and occasionally more things that hinge on the notes that Caroline happened to be keeping. Here in 2020, when I finally got around to this backfill operation, I learned that this motel is no longer on this earth. Only two other photos of the sign are found on the internet, and both of those were taken after the place closed. This shouldn’t matter much, but I don’t believe that 16 years ago, I was able to see that the corporatization of America would start to eliminate small motels in favor of larger, more modern hotels. This begs the question: what incentive exists for investors to build or renovate these rustic retreats that are already cheaper than their big-city counterparts, which draw in a clientele opting for greater conformity?

Rimrock Lake in Rimrock, Washington

Rimrock Lake in better days. I say this as upon looking up the locations of where these photos were taken I found the lake has been nearly drained for farm irrigation. Maybe global warming plays a role, too, but who’s going to admit that in the current political climate? I feel nostalgic for these days early in the new millennium when we were still trying to clean the air and waters of our country. Back then, when we took these long drives, it was inevitable that we’d spend a good amount of time scrubbing the windshield at a gas station, sometimes even between refuelings, as we tried to remove the bugs plastered to our window to the world. Today, we rarely have to worry about encounters with swarms of bugs as it seems our incessant obsession with ridding our crops of pests is delivering results. How detrimental is a situation where humans can have such a large impact on such an important resource?

Waterfalls in Washington

I spent a fair amount of time trying to find these falls that obviously were somewhere between Rimrock Lake and the park entry for Mt. Rainier, but had no luck. Caroline took a peek at Google Maps and came up with Clear Creek Falls, easily accessible from our road.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Mount Rainier in Washington

Excited to enter another national park that is new to us.

Mount Rainier in Washington

Our hopes of things opening up to spectacular views that will invite us to spend the hours of time we’ve allocated to exploring Mt. Rainier are dwindling.

Caroline Wise at Mount Rainier in Washington

This was a surprise find: snow. While it’s foggy up here, the temperature is actually quite nice, so it seemed like a great opportunity to take off the shoes and pose in the snow on Rainier.

Mount Rainier in Washington

We’re not wasting any time hanging out hoping for an improvement in the weather as we’d been warned long ago that we could visit this national park and never see what we came for. Down the mountain, we went on our way through Ashford over to Shelton. I mention Shelton because it was there by the side of the road that we picked up two pounds of cherries, one dark and one Rainier. Caroline nearly finished the Rainiers before we were 20 minutes up the road.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

We arrived in Port Townsend just in time to attend a tiny Low Tide Festival up here on the Olympic Peninsula. If we couldn’t admire mountains stretching 14,000 feet into the sky, we could be just as happy exploring tidepools at sea level. The lady volunteering at the information booth couldn’t believe that we had driven up from Phoenix mainly to experience the exceptionally low tide celebrated by this event. After a short conversation, we headed to the coast to explore.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

Who doesn’t love chitons? The orange part is its foot, and if we look in the gap at what looks like a kind of cable, that’s its gills. Back when we picked this up, smartphones hadn’t been invented yet, so we couldn’t ask Google to show us the anatomy of a chiton to determine what its head was and where its anus was. Good thing we didn’t choose to suck one end or the other.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

On the subject of technology: I shot this image with our Olympus C-5050 Zoom that was able to capture 5MP images. Just that month, in July 2004, Sprint released a phone with a 1.3-megapixel camera capable of capturing 1280 x 960 and sending it wirelessly, a first in the American market. The best I could do with the photos we were shooting during these days was dump them on a notebook so I could clear the memory card and keep on shooting. At this time, I was shooting on 256MB Compact Flash cards that were only $110 each compared to the 2GB cards that were going to come out later in the year for $800 but were targeted at a price too high for Caroline and me. Sixteen years later, I shoot on a 256GB SD Card that cost me about $65 and would have saved over 100,000 of the 5MP images I was shooting back then.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

Low tide for seagulls is like the buffet for the non-discriminating obese on a budget. Here again, we are confronted with a dramatic change between this trip and the time I’m blogging about it. What I’m referring to is the buffet. By 2020, they are mostly gone. A few exist here and there, and Chinese buffets seem to be going fairly strong yet, but by and large, they have left the dining scene. Maybe Instagram proved to be part of the reason, as just how photogenic is it to shoot a selfie hovering over the restocked fried chicken trough? Then it seems the budgets of the elderly were negatively impacted as the buffet became too expensive even for them. Tie it all together with the much dreaded “Fried Rice Syndrome” caused by the bacteria Bacillus cereus, which propels its victim into simultaneous vomiting and diarrhea, and who really needs that?

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

We’ve never seen an otter on land. You have no idea how badly we want this marine mammal to be a cuddly, affectionate fellow that would come out of hiding for some belly rubs, but that didn’t prove to be the case.

Point Wilson Lighthouse at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

At the end of the spit of land here in Port Townsend, Washington, is this lighthouse which is the signal our time out here is coming to an end.

Fort Worden in Port Townsend, Washington

Fort Worden was peeked at briefly before making our way to the car. Not much else to add here, as there are no notes. Even Caroline is unable to pull further memories out of her braincase.

Port Townsend, Washington

When you travel, what are the sights that you need to remember that will remind you of what was enchanting at the time? For us, it’s probably almost everything.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

Creepy hot dogs exposing themselves is just one such sight guaranteed to make us want to return to a spot on the side of the road. Why we didn’t try to get someone to take a photo of us posing with this Discovery Bay icon is beyond me. Sixteen years later, the evil wiener of flashing perversion is a distant memory that has disappeared from the landscape; only his shadow might still exist for those who drive by and remember his unsettling smile. I have to wonder if he’s now a fixture in the Sea Change Cannabis Dispensary that stands at the location.

Lavender on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington

The lavender in bloom acts as a reminder of the lavender coffee we had in Sequim.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

The last time we were out this way was back in November 2002, and the conditions were quite different. Cold and icy come to mind, but on looking at the photos, I see we also had a fair amount of blue sky. The one constant is the green.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

From Crescent Beach over to Whiskey Creek here on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we found a drive that leaves everything to be in love with. The Halibut Hole cabin is an exceptional standout for lodging we should someday come back to.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

Having visited Cape Flattery on our previous visit, we decided to hike out to Cape Alava further south here in Ozetta on the western side of the Olympic Peninsula. After falling in love with the quiet little town of Forks we are making a return visit to once again stay at the Town Motel.

Note: four years after this visit to Forks, the town was put on the map by Arizona resident Stephenie Meyer, who wrote the Twilight saga featuring glitter vampires.

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 1

Jessica Wise and John Wise in Arizona

Time for some father-daughter bonding, so Jessica and I headed out on the road to torture each other. I mean, seriously, who travels with their 17-year-old kid when said kid actually wants to spend time with a parent? I always thought this was anathema to the very ideas of freedom. And it’s not like we haven’t had a rocky past where Mr. Opinionated A-Hole made his fragile progeny weep giant tears of hurt.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

But here we are all the same, just the two of us testing one another to see who will crack out a giant desiccated car-length turd of despair. This example log at Petrified Forest National Park may not have been a tree at all and could seriously be a T-Rex BM back in the day when Father Tiny-Arms attempted to visit the Grand Canyon but got so pinched in the tension of such an ordeal that this happened.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Of course, I’m just kidding. My heart is not made of stone, and I’m sure hers is not either, though her mother sent me this image claiming it is, in fact, a fairly accurate representation of that cold thing beating in her chest. What I didn’t laugh at was her claim that she’d inherited from me.

Jessica Wise at Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Jeez, we only made it to the north side of the park before I had to push Jessica over a cliff. How she caught that pole is beyond me. I guess if she’s old enough to be heading off to the Navy, she’s old enough to have been practicing pole skills. Oh, did I forget to share that? Jessica needed me to sign off on her early enrollment to join the military, and after a minute of trying to dissuade her, her argument was too strong to ignore. Her reasoning was something like this, “I don’t know what I want to do, and I don’t want to end up pregnant or on drugs, which seem to be the options out here in Florence, Texas.” Well, how do you argue with that?

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Next, I tried the old trick that I’d hidden her birthday present out in the maze and all she needed to do was to brave the heat and hellish sun exposure and start hunting for it. I insisted there was a cash element to it, but she wasn’t biting. I think she knew by this time I would drive away.

Jessica Wise at Window Rock, Arizona (Navajo Nation)

But then there she is, putting on that cute “I’m seriously nice, Dad, but you have issues” smile, and I give in to allowing her to eat. My daughter is a vegetarian, yet another reason to leave her by the side of the road.

Jessica Wise and Colorado State Sign

Jessica exclaims, “What am I supposed to do, just pose here or something?” I responded with, “Look behind you; you are on Highway 666, which seems an appropriate place for the spawn of some evil like you to find your way. I’ll just tell Caroline you got cold feet about the Navy and decided to go nomad.”

Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

This is turning out more difficult than I thought, as even up here in the mountain retreat of Mesa Verde National Park, she wouldn’t believe me that her room for the night was in a kiva on the other side of the wall. It’s not that I don’t cherish my daughter, but you’ve never smelled her feet, and if we get to a motel tonight, I’m going to suffer in inhuman ways unimaginable to others. Guys have feet like hers (including the incredible size; I swear if she were shorter, she’d be a hobbit). Her feet are of the kind where you ask people to take their shoes off outside and wash those mosquito attractors before entering the room or just leave them sealed up in their shoes that are probably growing to their feet anyway.

Sunset in Colorado

Wow, we made it to the world’s cheapest motel I could find in Cortez, Colorado. This remnant of dryas would have provided more loft under our heads than the pillows we were given. To add insult to injury, I found us a Chinese restaurant to “dine” at. Anyone who’s traveled America’s minor roads knows, “Never go to a Chinese restaurant in a city under 150,000 people,” and here in Cortez, the population doesn’t even hit 8,500. You wanted vegetarian food, it’s this or Arby’s.