Carlsbad Caverns National Park – Day 4

Jutta Engelhardt in Roswell, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Wow, I was wrong about where we were going to be last night! We ended up at the Sands Motel in Portales, New Mexico. From there, it was only 90 miles over to the Nuthin Fancy Cafe in Roswell, New Mexico, for breakfast. If you think my mother-in-law had any interest in visiting the world-famous UFO Museum and Research Center, you’d be nuts; this lady came out of having survived World War II in Germany and could give 2 cents of concern about some crazy idea that a UFO landed nearby. Yeah, I thought the same thing, “Your loss old lady.”

Jutta Engelhardt at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We made our way to Carlsbad Caverns National Park instead because in America’s natural wonders, Jutta has a big interest.

Oh, look, it’s the Cave Door Greeter, kind of like the human equivalent at Walmart or Costco.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After selling my mother-in-law on how great the slow trail through the Natural Entrance to the Big Room is, she agreed to go for a little walk.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Caroline and I have already visited Carlsbad Caverns on three previous visits in 1998, 1999, and 2002; I hadn’t anticipated that I’d still be able to appreciate it as much as I am.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There’s one thing missing as Jutta and I make our way into the cave: the chatter of her and Caroline nattering on in German about what they are looking at.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are eight more images from inside the cave following this one; you can rest assured that I feel like deleting all of them and cutting to the juicy bits that will follow later in the evening.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But I love these photos, even if they are only 8 megapixels each.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

These contrasting colors and various rock types, many of them coated in the frozen minerals leached out of the surrounding earth, make for striking images and are on a scale that makes one feel like the puny little human one is.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are three other visitable caves nearby, including Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Slaughter Canyon Cave, that we’ve yet to visit. I think we need to better plan our spontaneous trips.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just imagine what these might have looked like when water was flowing over them. Over at nearby Lechuguilla Cave, one might see it (if they are a scientist and can wait years for permission after convincing the park service that their research is worthy and they have the requisite skills for serious caving).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Of course, one could visit Kartchner Caverns in Benson, Arizona, to see a living cave system, but with their no-photography rules I fail to understand the attraction fully. I need photos, or we were never there.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We actually have been to Kartchner because when I bought tickets they didn’t tell me ahead of time that photography wasn’t allowed. I can’t even remember what I saw as my jaw was clenched down so tightly that it apparently obscured my vision and erased my memory. Now consider this view of yet another psychedelic chamber: I know I was here, right here at the spot where this photo was taken, and that makes this place sit in my memories for years, and if ever I need a reminder, I just look back to these days and revel in the experiences we’ve been able to obtain.

[Or could it be that you have no memory of Kartchner because the cave tour itself felt very short, the bats were off lounging in Mexico, and the seeming majority of our visit was spent looking at some light show accompanied by new-agey music? – Caroline]

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

No tripod, handheld, not the best ISO, and still, I managed to snap off three portrait images of this giant cascade to stitch into a panorama.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Those are soda straw formations and represent the end of our self-guided tour of Carlsbad, well, the caverns anyway; there’s more to come above ground.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

At dusk, you might be so lucky, depending on the time of year, that you too can witness the Bat Flyout. My mother-in-law had one word to describe this phenomenon, “Sagenhaft,” which translates to fabulous or amazing.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

Sadly, the bats missed this cockroach, probably because it and a bevy of its friends were camping out in what can easily be described as the worst room ever in any of the cheap motels we’ve sunk to staying in.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This one, though, will not be stayed in. It took everything in my power to remain in this room to take these photos.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

So disgusting it was I didn’t even bother to haggle about a refund; I simply wanted my mother-in-law and me to put as many miles between us and this shithole as quickly as possible. Sadly, this was the only motel in Las Cruces that had availability, which meant that though it was approaching midnight, we’d have to tough it out for another hour until we reached Deming, New Mexico, with fingers crossed we’d find a room

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

While it might be difficult to make out, I believe this is the outline of a dead body and the single greatest contributing factor as to why this room smells something worse than hell.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

I’m still trying to figure out what happened to the curtains.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This was that place of nope, the Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Seriously, nothing compares to this in all of our travels.

Canyon de Chelly

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Disclaimer: This post was updated in October 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; most of the details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Sure, it’s a cliche that perspective changes everything, but it was just yesterday that we were looking down in the canyon, and somehow, I missed that it was this wet down here. I can’t believe we are finally visiting Canyon de Chelly properly. Our tour was arranged through Thunderbird Lodge, where we were staying.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

We knew that we’d be visiting the White House Ruin today, but that there would be a number of cliff dwelling sites for us to see came as a surprise. I was just pondering what it is that I find so intriguing about southwest Native American historic sites compared to European ones, and I guess it comes down to the mystery of knowing so little. Allowing the imagination to wander instead of having concrete images and texts lends to this sense of curiosity, and then there’s the idea that Native Americans might know something about their ancestors that they’ve not shared, which only adds to the allure.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Sure, it’s just more of the stream we are driving through that’s not deep enough for any kind of boat, but I’m seriously enchanted by this red, green, and blue landscape being traveled through on the water.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

I’m starting to get the sense that Canyon de Chelly was a metropolis back in its day.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

If there was any doubt as to why we couldn’t bring our own cars back here, those have now been dispelled. We should also hope that no one ever has the idea of paving a way into this canyon.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Those are the pictographs and petroglyphs that the following site is named after.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

These are the Antelope House Ruins of the Ancestral Puebloan culture, formerly known as the Anasazi. I wish we could get closer to have a better look at the original plaster that still holds fast to the kiva wall in front of us, as though it would somehow convey its secrets to me if only I were inches from it.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Look at the figure on the right; I think Robert Crumb stole the idea for Mr. Natural from this panel!

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle, Arizona

There had to be at least one selfie here to prove we were the ones on this epic journey, it also makes for a nice reminder of our time shared with Caroline’s mom.

Whitehouse Ruin at Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

This is the White House Ruin in Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona. The building in the back is the namesake of this particular location. Should I ever be so lucky to return here, I’ll bring my 70-200mm lens to try grabbing a better image of it as after I got home and zoomed into this image, I could see writings on the walls, and while I can guess that they are from people moving through the area about 100 years ago, I’d still like to see more details. Interestingly enough, I cannot find any close-up photos of that building.

White House Ruin in Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Arizona

White House Ruin, too, but a better overview of the complex; of note, this was about as close as we were allowed to get.

Caroline Wise flying a kite on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Every so often, Caroline remembers to bring a kite with us on the off chance she finds a windy enough place to take it airborne. We are still on the Navajo Reservation but are heading in the general direction that will take us home after our next stop.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

We are at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado, Arizona.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

This guest hogan is not visitable unless you are invited as an artist in residency; what a crazy honor that would be.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The old kitchen in the private home of John Lorenzo Hubbell who purchased the trading post out front back in 1878.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And this is the dining room where the Hubbells would have taken their meals.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

One of the seven bedrooms in the Hubbell home.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The portrait is of J.L. Hubbell, which seems to be how he was known then, and above on the ceiling are Navajo baskets hung upside down.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And finally, the main entrance to the residence.

Montezuma’s Castle to Meteor Crater

Jutta Engelhardt at Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Arizona

With Caroline back at work, Jutta and I took off for a day trip north. Our first stop was Montezuma’s Castle National Monument.

The cliff dwelling high on a sheer rock face known as Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Arizona

I stitched 14 images together to create a detailed look at the cliff dwelling. The image on my computer is 11,255 x 5,239 pixels in dimension. Tours are not offered of this fragile monument, so the best one can do to see more details is either bring binoculars or take a super hi-res photo.

The cliff dwelling high on a sheer rock face known as Montezuma's Castle National Monument in Arizona

So you can have a better sense of just where this precarious cliffside castle is situated.

Jutta Engelhardt in Leupp, Arizona

Without much of a plan, we continued north until reaching Leupp, where we stopped for lunch at a roadside stand selling mutton stew – a Navajo favorite.

Leupp, Arizona

Those snow-capped peaks on the left are next to Flagstaff, but that’s not the reason for the photo; my mother-in-law has rarely seen Navajo cowboys on her visits to America.

Donkeys near Leupp, Arizona

I guess they’re not totally wild donkeys, as I don’t think they’d approach us if they were.

Meteor Crater Natural Landmark in Winslow, Arizona

Our last stop on this impromptu journey was Meteor Crater near Winslow, Arizona.

National Parks we Visited on Vacation

Brochures from the National Parks we visited on our vacation.

Our vacation covered a lot of landmarks, including these 12 National Parks and Monuments. After having visited more than 120 facilities, we have collected a crate of these brochures, sadly, budget cuts are going to trim how many brochures the parks are sent to a mere 5000 – imagine that the Grand Canyon has millions of visitors every year. Missing from the photo are brochures for Pt. Reyes National Seashore and the Grand Teton National Park.

Jutta On The Road – Day 16

Jacob Lake restaurant at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Here, we are approaching the conclusion of an incredibly ambitious, maybe overly ambitious, trip that took in 9 states over 16 days. Our overnight was at Jacob Lake Inn, where we snagged a cabin; we were about to have breakfast at their restaurant.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Under incredibly clear skies, we are driving down to the north rim here in the Grand Canyon National Park, our 14th National Park or Monument of this trip.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Talk about choosing the right day to be here.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The south rim looks like it’s a stone’s throw away, while the San Francisco Peaks over in Flagstaff are about 60 miles away as the crow flies but about 200 by car.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

You might notice that we were not out here for sunrise, nor will we be on hand for sunset, which is all okay as there’s no small amount of exhaustion going on. Then again, this kind of visibility is outrageous.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

While this side of the Grand Canyon is not as busy as the south rim, how we calculated our arrival when absolutely nobody else was here will have to remain a mystery.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

As I said, no one else is here with us.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Just us and this tree.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

As I stop to really look at this photo of mother and daughter, I’m realizing that there are more photos of these two together in the United States than were ever taken of them in Germany where they were born and Jutta still lives.

Vermillion Cliffs area northern Arizona

We are now on our way home; if only that were our home over there.

Vermillion Cliffs area northern Arizona

The Vermillion Cliffs area of our state of Arizona is one of our great treasures, but rarely, if ever, have I heard anyone else mention them.

Navajo Bridge over the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

From here, we’ll turn south and, in about 4 hours, be pulling into the driveway of the place we live. Here is the Navajo Bridge.

The Colorado River and the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Both the new and the old Navajo Bridges cross the Colorado River. The old one is now only used for foot traffic while foot traffic is forbidden on the newer road bridge.

So, as I wrote in my disclaimer in the previous days’ posts, these entries have been written between 15 and 17 years after the events of the days covered. There was indeed a two-year gap in finishing the writing and photo prep due to losing track of working on this sequence, with other things grabbing my attention, but now they are done. While lacking the granular details, I’d like to have reminisced with, at least we now have a comprehensive visual record with minor tidbits brought to the blog, which will allow a greater chance of us stumbling into the images than when they sit in storage on a hard drive. Writing today, I think back to when my mother-in-law still had the ability to join us for such grueling adventures and wish we could share these old memories with her, but she’s in assisted living these days, and cognitive issues limit her ability to follow what she’s looking it on a computer or phone screen. Another reminder to do the things with those you love when they can be fully enjoyed and then celebrated for years into the future.

Jutta On The Road – Day 15

Mokee Dugway in southern Utah

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until 17 years after the trip. It should be noted that it was a huge mistake to have not written it way back when. Sometimes, after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip (or even during), I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

There is no swinging steak and eggs for breakfast at the Mexican Hat Lodge, and Monument Valley is not on the itinerary for this trip, so we are heading into new territory on Jutta’s behalf. Regarding the weather, no worries. I’ve looked ahead in my photos and see that we’ll be enjoying blue skies later in the day, but for now, we have drama above.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on the Mokee Dugway in southern Utah

There’s also the matter of drama in our backsides as we drive up this narrow gravel road known as the Mokee Dugway, which, while beautiful, is fraught with nail-biting fear as the edge of oblivion is always too close for comfort. Yep, it’s cold and windy up here at this overlook, and Jutta’s thin little cardigan ain’t cutting it.

Fry Canyon Lodge in southern Utah

We used to take photos of places as reminders with the idea that one day, we’d return and stay at that place. Well, it turns out that Fry Canyon Lodge was closed for renovations, except those renovations would never end or maybe never begin because it never opened again.

On the way to Lake Powell, Utah

There’s a river out there, a mighty and great river.

Colorado River flowing to Lake Powell in Utah

It’s called Colorado.

Upper end of Lake Powell in Utah

Little did we know that the era of Lake Powell reaching all the way up here to the Hite Marina was well over. Across the way, on the right, you might be able to make out the boat ramp, obviously, it no longer reaches the water. The bleached rock was underwater just a few years before, but in 2002, the lake level dropped too far.

Plant flowering in southern Utah

Reminder to self: not all views must be vistas and dramatic horizons; there are spectacles closer to us if we slow down and check out what’s around us.

Approaching Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

We’ll continue on Utah State Route 95 a ways further as our destination is mostly to the west.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

No, Jutta didn’t just go and get tough; it was warming up by the time we reached the Capitol Reef National Park.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

With water flowing through the park, we’d be extra cautious as it’s been drilled into Caroline and me regarding the threat of flash floods. We are far too timid to risk something like being caught by one.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

So, instead, we’ll take the high road.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

The really high road overlooking the entirety of Earth!

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

Oh my god, I don’t know if I can drive over that. Both sides fall off at such an angle that only death can result from leaving the road. Why are there no guardrails on this ridge? My plan was to look way out there and ensure I wouldn’t see one other car ahead of us and then drive right down the yellow stripe, and that worked I can only hope I never have to drive this again in my life.

Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

Well, if this is the reward for maneuvering the precarious tiny slice of road, maybe it was worth it.

Somewhere between Capitol Reef and Bryce National Park's in Utah

I’ll bet a dollar that before engine-driven water pumping all the beauty in the world didn’t make up for how hard it was to farm out here. Now that we can extract every drop of fresh water from below our feet, you can bet that’s just what we’ll do.

Jutta Engelhardt at Bryce National Park in Utah

National Park number two is right here at Bryce. Years ago, when we first brought Jutta through the area, we only got as far as Zion, so now we’re closing the loop.

Bryce National Park in Utah

It’s late in the day when we got here, which you can easily tell by the shadows, huh? So there will be no hikes into the hoodoos, but then again, nobody would ever expect that of us as we race across the United States, the entire western United States.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Bryce National Park in Utah

Sometimes, a selfie with just the two of us reminds us that we are here together, which can easily be lost when Jutta and Caroline try to spend as much quality time together as possible while taking in a million new sights and experiences.