Grand Canyon With Jutta

Flagstaff, Arizona

[Note: this post wasn’t put together until February 2022 and was not based on notes, purely taken out of memory.]

We didn’t get out of Phoenix very early, as the time stamp on these old images showed us reaching this meadow near Flagstaff around 1:00 in the afternoon. With the Grand Canyon National Park so close to us, we have the luxury of late-day departures and still arriving at the canyon in time for sunset.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

That’s Lookout Studio, designed by the inimitable Mary Jane Colter, meaning the building on the left, not the giant canyon in the background.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s too late to get very far down the Bright Angel Trail, but that’s okay, as sunset and dinner await us.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

By this time, I was sitting on my hands in excitement as on this visit to the Grand Canyon, something extraordinary was in order, but Jutta wasn’t going to learn about it until the next day.

Dante’s View as Overlook of Death

Started the day thinking we would drive out to Racetrack Playa with our puny two-wheel-drive sedan – wrong. When the sign says recommended for high clearance vehicles, well, at least here in Death Valley, they mean it. One of these days, we’ll see those mysterious sliding rocks.

Now, with about 8 hours to play with as the Playa is off the itinerary, we’ll have to satisfy ourselves with other sites. Flowers are a nice start.

And more flowers.

We are often asked, “What’s to do in Death Valley?” If layers of multi-hued rocks, sand, salt flats, grand vistas, the occasional wild animal, extremes, hanging out below sea level, views of things you’ve never seen with your own eyes, and the stinkiest toilets in Southern California (at Bad Water, especially when in Summer) are of no interest to you and your experiences, you might hate being in Death Valley. But, if you are intrigued by things never seen, smelled, or felt by your senses, then this place will have things in abundance for you.

The next stop was Dante’s View, one of the more famous overlooks of Death Valley and the salt bed below. A few years ago, a flood of near biblical proportions inundated this National Park. Had we been here those days, we would have been looking out at a very temporary lake that, in places, was two feet deep. Some people canoed across the basin, likely the only time in their lives they would have that opportunity.

In the month that followed the most intense wildflower explosion occurred, which we did not learn of until the tail end of the phenomenon and sadly missed it. Now we’re stuck with this dried-out salty white view of a lonely desert. Oh, well, at least there are these human ornaments enhancing the view.

Maybe it’s the psychedelic attraction at work here, as images such as these trigger memories from long ago.

Like us, Jutta never tires of seeing these sights as we try to cement impressions deep into our histories.

Yesterday, I wrote about Bennetts Long Camp and the naming of this desert valley to reflect what it did to some of those who passed through over 150 years ago; here’s another sign identifying their way into death.

I don’t believe I knew prior to today and our walk on this trail that there were water-carved slot canyons here.

So, just how did this aggregate fill what appears to have been a burrow that seems to have been dug into accumulating layers of sedimentary sand well before it turned to rock? Was this once a home for a creature long ago?

One day, we’ll need to carry a book about the geological history of this region with us so we might better understand precisely what’s been going on here across time.

Into the sand dunes because nobody can ever experience too many environments in a single day.

We didn’t make it out to those dunes, but maybe someday.

While I didn’t share a photo, as I’m already posting so many here today, I’d taken images of the fading stars as we entered the park along with the first glimmers of sunrise, but this moonrise couldn’t be ignored.

A good macro lens would have come in handy in photographing these fine examples of salt crystals branching off like fibers reaching for the sunlight.

As above, so below.

Happy mom and fortunate daughter after another tremendous day experiencing the extraordinary.

Death Valley Signs of Life

Death Valley National Park, California

Not much death happening around here at this corner of Death Valley.

Devil's Golf Course at Death Valley National Park, California

Just a bunch of life from what we can see. This is the Devil’s Cornfield, made up of clumps of soil weathered by aeolian winds with arrow weeds growing atop of them. What are Aeolian winds? From Wikipedia, I quote: “Aeolian processes, also spelled eolian, pertain to wind activity in the study of geology and weather and specifically to the wind’s ability to shape the surface of the Earth (or other planets). Winds may erode, transport, and deposit materials and are effective agents in regions with sparse vegetation, a lack of soil moisture, and a large supply of unconsolidated sediments. Although water is a much more powerful eroding force than wind, aeolian processes are important in arid environments such as deserts.”

Death Valley National Park, California

Proof that water can run pretty deep here when it does rain, or how does one explain this phenomenon?

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

Living in Arizona, we have come to not see names of places as literals, such as Bloody Basin, which is not full of blood, and Big Bug Creek, well, maybe the big bugs are now extinct. So when you see Salt Creek on the map in Death Valley and everything tells you that this dryest of dry places is tough on life, who would ever expect to find Salt Creek flowing with water supporting a small marsh? Salt Creek turns out to be the remnant of Lake Manly, which 12,000 years ago during the Holocene was still a real lake before the area turned to desert. Amazingly, underneath all of this scorching desert lies one of the world’s largest aquifers, the legacy of Lake Manly. At Badwater Basin, one can see signs of the aquifer in the small areas covered by a thin layer of water.

Death Valley National Park, California

Not far from the Devil’s Cornfield, we are now visiting the Devils Golf Course.

Death Valley National Park, California

I’d venture that these are the petrified waveforms that froze in time back when the devil was playing golf and listening to whatever kind of music a devil listens to, probably AC/DC.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

How lucky we are that on this particular weekend in this most inhospitable of landscapes known as Death Valley, we would find wildflowers in bloom.

Death Valley National Park, California

Sand, flowers, rocks, satan, and snow.

Death Valley National Park, California

There seems to be more water flowing here in Death Valley than one would imagine.

Death Valley National Park, California

After taking a wrong turn here at the Bennetts Long Campsite many years ago, a group of people heading for California’s gold rush area was effectively trapped due to lack of water and navigating skills. While a person did walk about 250 miles looking for help, some of the party died here, hence the naming of the place that would become known as Death Valley.

Death Valley National Park, California

We explored a side canyon with a name that has been lost in time.

Update: In 2023, we took a hike up Golden Canyon, this is that canyon.

Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

Does my wife have bird-like features, or is it just the weird camera angle?

Death Valley National Park, California

The sun is getting low, and soon, we’ll be overtaken by hunger. Better head for the exit.

Death Valley National Park, California

Tomorrow, we will take in the view from above.

Redwoods

Redwoods National Park in California

Time to hit the road, well, after taking to the skies. Today, Southwest Airlines flew us to Sacramento, California, after a short delay while they exchanged planes since the one we had boarded first was leaking fuel from the engine. Flying meant we were ill-prepared for camping, requiring us to purchase supplies. Walmart and Whole Foods were the two stops that brought us up to speed. Now, on the way, we aim for the Redwoods National Park on our way to the Oregon Coast State Parks, where we’ll be roughing it in yurts.

Harris Beach State Park in a yurt Brookings, Oregon

Those Mongolian-influenced tents come with a heater, lockable door, beds, table, light, windows, picnic table, and barbecue. The weather is beautiful, and things are looking good. Tonight, we are back at Harris Beach State Park for the third time in the past five years. As a matter of fact, we’ll be staying in yurts for five consecutive nights. This year, we got smart and decided to bring our own bedding, as sleeping under our comforter with pillows picked up locally is far better than our sleeping bags, or so we hope.

We’ve Been There

National Park pamphlets from across the United States

Be sure to click the above image to see a larger image and clearer view of the 88 National Park pamphlets we have collected over the past seven years. Caroline and I have actually visited 128 National Parks and Monuments but haven’t always been able to nab one of the brochures; either they were out, or there wasn’t ever one printed. We still have 261 parks and monuments left to visit, which seems to be nearly impossible as trying to get to some of these remote outposts at a rate of nearly nine a year for the next 30 years is a tough nut to crack. Highlights and favorites would include Yellowstone at the top of the list, Glacier, Everglades, Redwoods, Olympic, Grand Teton, Death Valley, Grand Canyon, Crater Lake, Chaco Culture, and Carlsbad Caverns.