Death Valley Signs of Life

Death Valley National Park, California

Not much death happening around here at this corner of Death Valley.

Devil's Golf Course at Death Valley National Park, California

Just a bunch of life from what we can see. This is the Devil’s Cornfield, made up of clumps of soil weathered by aeolian winds with arrow weeds growing atop of them. What are Aeolian winds? From Wikipedia, I quote: “Aeolian processes, also spelled eolian, pertain to wind activity in the study of geology and weather and specifically to the wind’s ability to shape the surface of the Earth (or other planets). Winds may erode, transport, and deposit materials and are effective agents in regions with sparse vegetation, a lack of soil moisture, and a large supply of unconsolidated sediments. Although water is a much more powerful eroding force than wind, aeolian processes are important in arid environments such as deserts.”

Death Valley National Park, California

Proof that water can run pretty deep here when it does rain, or how does one explain this phenomenon?

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

Living in Arizona, we have come to not see names of places as literals, such as Bloody Basin, which is not full of blood, and Big Bug Creek, well, maybe the big bugs are now extinct. So when you see Salt Creek on the map in Death Valley and everything tells you that this dryest of dry places is tough on life, who would ever expect to find Salt Creek flowing with water supporting a small marsh? Salt Creek turns out to be the remnant of Lake Manly, which 12,000 years ago during the Holocene was still a real lake before the area turned to desert. Amazingly, underneath all of this scorching desert lies one of the world’s largest aquifers, the legacy of Lake Manly. At Badwater Basin, one can see signs of the aquifer in the small areas covered by a thin layer of water.

Death Valley National Park, California

Not far from the Devil’s Cornfield, we are now visiting the Devils Golf Course.

Death Valley National Park, California

I’d venture that these are the petrified waveforms that froze in time back when the devil was playing golf and listening to whatever kind of music a devil listens to, probably AC/DC.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

How lucky we are that on this particular weekend in this most inhospitable of landscapes known as Death Valley, we would find wildflowers in bloom.

Death Valley National Park, California

Sand, flowers, rocks, satan, and snow.

Death Valley National Park, California

There seems to be more water flowing here in Death Valley than one would imagine.

Death Valley National Park, California

After taking a wrong turn here at the Bennetts Long Campsite many years ago, a group of people heading for California’s gold rush area was effectively trapped due to lack of water and navigating skills. While a person did walk about 250 miles looking for help, some of the party died here, hence the naming of the place that would become known as Death Valley.

Death Valley National Park, California

We explored a side canyon with a name that has been lost in time.

Update: In 2023, we took a hike up Golden Canyon, this is that canyon.

Caroline Wise in Death Valley National Park, California

Does my wife have bird-like features, or is it just the weird camera angle?

Death Valley National Park, California

The sun is getting low, and soon, we’ll be overtaken by hunger. Better head for the exit.

Death Valley National Park, California

Tomorrow, we will take in the view from above.

Redwoods

Redwoods National Park in California

Time to hit the road, well, after taking to the skies. Today, Southwest Airlines flew us to Sacramento, California, after a short delay while they exchanged planes since the one we had boarded first was leaking fuel from the engine. Flying meant we were ill-prepared for camping, requiring us to purchase supplies. Walmart and Whole Foods were the two stops that brought us up to speed. Now, on the way, we aim for the Redwoods National Park on our way to the Oregon Coast State Parks, where we’ll be roughing it in yurts.

Harris Beach State Park in a yurt Brookings, Oregon

Those Mongolian-influenced tents come with a heater, lockable door, beds, table, light, windows, picnic table, and barbecue. The weather is beautiful, and things are looking good. Tonight, we are back at Harris Beach State Park for the third time in the past five years. As a matter of fact, we’ll be staying in yurts for five consecutive nights. This year, we got smart and decided to bring our own bedding, as sleeping under our comforter with pillows picked up locally is far better than our sleeping bags, or so we hope.

We’ve Been There

National Park pamphlets from across the United States

Be sure to click the above image to see a larger image and clearer view of the 88 National Park pamphlets we have collected over the past seven years. Caroline and I have actually visited 128 National Parks and Monuments but haven’t always been able to nab one of the brochures; either they were out, or there wasn’t ever one printed. We still have 261 parks and monuments left to visit, which seems to be nearly impossible as trying to get to some of these remote outposts at a rate of nearly nine a year for the next 30 years is a tough nut to crack. Highlights and favorites would include Yellowstone at the top of the list, Glacier, Everglades, Redwoods, Olympic, Grand Teton, Death Valley, Grand Canyon, Crater Lake, Chaco Culture, and Carlsbad Caverns.

North Rim Grand Canyon

North Rim of the Grand Canyon looking into a hazy bluish corner of the canyon from Cape Royal under little fluffy white clouds on a perfect summer day

While yesterday I voiced lament that we don’t do enough local travels these days, this moment at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park is a peek of what’s to come. Our room is reserved for early October, and our first hike of the North Rim down into the canyon is planned. We will explore the North Kaibab trail, and weather, gumption, and endurance allow; we will hike from the rim to Roaring Springs. The hike is 9.4 miles (15km) round trip, not a huge obstacle, but the hike out is intimidating as we face 3,400 feet (1037m) of elevation gain.

Zion

Standing in the middle of the road in Zion National Park in Utah looking at the red and white rock against the blue sky

Coming back to Zion National Park is a reminder that Caroline and I haven’t done enough local traveling in the past year and a half. The last time we were in the area was in July when we drove by Zion on our way to and from Yellowstone National Park. Just north of Zion is Bryce Canyon National Park, and just the same, it too beckons for a return visit. Short weekend trips to monuments of the Southwest have been made more difficult with Caroline studying for her degree, and the fact is we have been to all National Parks and Monuments within a 500-mile radius, so it’s not like we are deprived of anything. But when you pay a return visit to these natural beauties, you ask yourself, why did I stay away for so long?

The Day After The Big Day

Maria and Nelson Tello at Cape Royal on the north rim of the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The wake-up call from the Luxor front desk came in at 7:30; by 8:30, we were on the road. After driving 90 miles in Nevada, we dipped into Arizona for a short 29-mile drive across the northwestern corner of the state called the Arizona Strip. This is the only part of Arizona that you cannot get to from Arizona; you must enter from Nevada or Utah. The first stop in Utah was Zion National Park near Springdale. After a brief visit and drive through Zion, we headed east through the Coral Pink Sand Dune area and then dropped south on our way back into Arizona, going to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park. It was already late afternoon as we started the drive in the park that took us to Angel’s Window and Cape Royal overlooks, where the above photo was taken. Driving home, we saw the Vermillion Cliffs, crossed the Colorado River on the Navajo Reservation, and finally passed Flagstaff on our way home to Phoenix, Arizona.