Yellowstone Winter – Day 3

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Today is our 15th wedding anniversary, which is a terrific thing to celebrate in Yellowstone this winter. Our honeymoon back in 1994 was at the Grand Canyon National Park, and between these dates, we have visited forty of the fifty-eight National Parks in the United States – some many times over, such as Yellowstone (this is our seventh visit). It would be easier to list the parks we have not been to, such as the eight in Alaska, one in American Samoa, one in the Virgin Islands, Biscayne and Dry Tortugas in Florida, Cuyahoga Valley in Ohio, Isle Royale in Michigan, Congaree in South Carolina, Wind Cave in South Dakota, Kings Canyon in California, and Shenandoah in Virginia. I should also mention that we’ve been to roughly one hundred of the National Monuments, Lakeshores, Seashores, Trails, Parkways, and Memorials. To say we are in love with the natural beauty of America would start to come close to how much we appreciate this incredible country.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Onward with the day. The “Wake Up To Wildlife” tour with Doug got started so early that we had not a moment for breakfast but were supplied with a small boxed meal in the snow coach. In the dark, we drove out to Lamar Valley, a popular spot for wildlife viewing. In the first light of day, we saw three male elk roadside, quickly followed by a coyote not too far up a hill, checking us out. A car next to the road is a good indicator that someone is looking at wildlife; in this instance, that person was Bob Landis, the Emmy award-winning cinematographer for “In The Valley of Wolves.” While no wolves were in the immediate vicinity, we did get to watch a red fox mousing for food. Bob suggested we see wolf researcher Rick McIntyre a little further down the road, who had his scope fixed on a wolf pack; off we went to see several wolves.

A bull moose trekking across the snow during winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Not disappointed with our wolf sighting, we jumped back into the snow-coach and continued further into the Lamar Valley and our first glimpses of sunlight. As though with divine insight, our guide, Doug, was talking about an elusive bull moose that had been reported in the general area. With the park’s size of 2.2 million acres (890,000 hectares), which is four times bigger than Luxembourg, it would seem impossible to pinpoint a lone moose, but within minutes, there he was – a young bull moose not far from the road. Doug could not have been more enthusiastic in his sheer delight that this animal was right there standing in the sunlight. I probably snapped one or two, maybe eighty photos while the moose made its way across the road behind us.

A bull moose trekking across the snow during winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

As the moose crossed the road (there should have been a joke found in that), we got to see it spook a couple of bison that took off running alongside it. As for us spectators, the only thing missing was a giant grizzly bear chasing all three of them.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Seriously though, there was nothing missing. Coming into the park under mostly gray skies, we are having an incredibly fortuitous moment as now, when the sun and blue sky make appearances the contrasts are downright enchanting.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

There is no way to truly convey what we feel about our incredibly lucky existence and that we should be standing once again in Yellowstone while seeing it in a way that makes it an entirely new experience. One might think, “Oh, this is what rich people do,” but we are not rich in the sense that we have an inexhaustible supply of money and free time to come and go as we please. To the casual observer of this blog, do not confuse frugality in our everyday life with the opulence we wallow in when we are out gathering big experiences.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

So, on the one hand, we are rich as we put great value on seeing our world wearing its many faces. We never tire of frolicking in the wealth nature lays before us. The worth we place on seeing a moose, a stream, or god rays streaming down on a frozen landscape is incalculable.

The idea that in our lifetime, we’ll have not only smiled upon one another countless times but are smiling out at nature as it offers us so much to be happy about is a gift it seems few are allowed to indulge in.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Wolf tracks are as amazing as seeing the elegant animals themselves.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Our wildlife expedition during the first part of the day is winding down as we are now heading back to Mammoth Hot Springs.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Once we get back, we’ll only hang around briefly until the next adventure begins.

Time for happy people to grab some lunch.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Funny how I’ve never been so enamored with the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, but here in winter, sans the crowds, its conveyance of being a refuge and warm shelter gives it greater significance.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Back on the road going further south than we ever have, at least during the winter.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Better take photos of all the snowcapped mountains as tomorrow they could be hidden by heavy clouds, and we cannot know if we’ll ever see them again looking just like this.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Driving over snow is a slow process which is fine by those of us who want to linger in the view.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

There were times that I couldn’t remember if we’d ever traveled a particular road before or if this was a winter-specific path that failed to see at other times of the year.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Here we are for a tour of Norris Geyser Basin, led by our guide and driver, Danielle. The other passengers were Mark and Joanna from Houston, who also accompanied us on the Wake Up To Wildlife tour this morning, and as it turned out, they would also join us on the snow coach ride to Old Faithful tomorrow. (Check out their photos and experience on their blog at www.thetravelgeeks.com.)

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

As our small group was eager and willing to see it all, Danielle charged right in and got us going.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

She marched us from here at Steamboat Geyser all the way around the snowy boardwalks, even across Porcelain Basin, only missing a small part of the basin, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We did not sprint through the basin, mind you, as the four of us were eager to take in the sights that none of us had experienced before.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I can’t believe I shot all these photos in JPEG, but that’s exactly what I did because I felt RAW was too memory-hungry and that adjusting all these images in Photoshop would be painful.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I also can’t believe I’m foolish enough to attempt posting 38 images, but this is the price I must pay for Caroline and I enjoying so many that we couldn’t decide how to cut a meaningful number from the day.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Hoar frost is a phenomenon when the ground grows very cold and squeezes up the moisture that hasn’t frozen yet.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Through a lot of map scouring, I could figure out the names of these unnamed features, but who has that kind of time? I’ll bet I regret this in the future.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Can you tell that this is a panorama made from four portrait images? I didn’t think so.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Contrary to reports elsewhere, this is not olive oil, milk, and balsamic vinegar.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I could be wrong, but I think this is the Porcelain Basin, and just as I make this half-hearted claim, I visited Google and can confirm this is, in fact, the Porcelain Basin.

Winter at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

This was the path to Grandma’s house, where the big bad wolf might be hanging out. Time to leave.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Thanks to our winter guide, Danielle, for affording us so much time to see so much.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

To see and hear Roaring Mountain in the winter is a treat as during the rest of the year, you get to first experience Roaring Crowd and then, only if you are lucky, do you hear the rumbling mountainside in the background.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Hmmm, where exactly did we spot these basaltic columns?

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Not a well-lit bison in the foreground but an intriguingly lit mountain with some menacing clouds on its other side.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

A bison a bit closer to the road wearing a milkshake mustache seemed to be enjoying itself.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

The weather changes a lot out here.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Just as day gives way to night.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

While we didn’t take advantage of this little luxury, the music that plays over the ice-skating rink was a constant companion during our time next door.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

And next door was one of the jacuzzies that, for an hour, was all ours as we soaked in the hot water under light snow, serenaded by some golden oldies that played on over at the empty ice-skating rink. Seriously, life doesn’t and cannot get better than this. An amazing 15th anniversary, for sure.

Yellowstone Winter – Day 2

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

For the duration of this winter vacation in Yellowstone National Park, we will rise before dawn, eat breakfast before daybreak, and use every moment of available light to explore, learn, and have fun. Our first scheduled activity for the day didn’t get underway until 9:00, so we used the time to return to the terraces here at Mammoth Hot Springs. In the center of the photo is the Liberty Cap.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Finding these shrouds rising off the hot waters of the springs is to witness a dance in which clouds of steam wrap and unfold parts of the landscape, showing us a part of the park only few will ever see with their own eyes.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

With nearly four million visitors in the summer months and only about 100,000 during the winter, the contrast is stark and recognizable right away. Are we here all by ourselves this morning? It seems that way.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Sit still and try to remain quiet while the earth all around you offers you its sound. Look deep into the travertine with its mineralized waters patiently waiting to spill over the edge and try to comprehend the passage of time the planet knows, as some things move at speeds that require great patience to witness.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Behind teeth of ice, something is hidden under snow, temporarily remaining out of sight. What was here just a few months ago? Do those who stood here remember what they’d seen?

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

This morning, it was Chris from the Ski Shop next to the hotel who would take us out. Today, we have our first cross-country ski lessons. Neither Caroline nor I had tried this form of skiing before, and I was quite apprehensive about trying it, although eleven months ago, when booking this lesson, it sounded like a really great idea.

Bundled up and shaky, all of my attention was aimed at Chris and his confidence that he could teach us how to do this. The lessons began with baby steps; his aim was to get us accustomed to our body’s relationship with the terrain and the equipment before guiding us through the various motions of cross-country skiing. Within the first fifteen minutes, I was the first to spill; a valuable lesson to be had here: do not step on the ski you are trying to lift. The next important lesson is how to get up from the snow: grab the skis, pull them towards you, roll onto your knees, leverage your weight by pulling against the skis, and rise up on one leg – easy. Before the lesson was finished, we had made our first glides down the tiniest of hills and were supposedly ready for the bigger world. Chris recommended that we spend time later in the day at Indian Creek.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

After lunch, Laney from Florida took us fifteen miles to our drop-off location at the Indian Creek trailhead.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Up through Golden Gate, we drove over the snowy roads in the bumpiest vehicle we have yet ridden in.

Caroline Wise on cross-country ski's in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Alone in the woods for the next two hours, we practiced going back and forth and trying to maneuver the small hillside without gaining too much speed – our snowplow abilities were still underdeveloped.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on cross-country ski's in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

It’s extraordinary how quickly we warmed up with half a dozen layers of clothes on as we worked hard to move with at least some grace over the snow.

Caroline Wise on cross-country ski's in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We are still not very good at this, but for our first steps in a sport that is new to us, we are happy with the results Chris helped us achieve.

Caroline Wise on cross-country ski's in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We may not have looked very good out here on this first try, but the thrill of it all left us happy as clams that we’d tried.

Our time has run out as we depart the warming hut for the snowcat that has returned to bring us back to the Mammoth Hot Springs area.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Like our encounter with cross-country skiing, these also are our first rides aboard a tracked vehicle able to drive deftly over the snow and ice.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

The nine hours of daylight we are afforded seem to go by quickly.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

It’s not a great shot of bison, but they are the first we’re seeing today.

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Back through Golden Gate, and while the park service has years of experience bringing visitors here in winter, we are just a bit nervous heading downhill, knowing what the view normally looks like as we essentially head for the edge of the road at the edge of early evening.

Caroline Wise in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Dinner is had in a dining room that is mostly ours, followed by some writing and hanging out in the hotel lobby, rounding out another perfect day for us: best friends spending moments from a lifetime together.

Yellowstone Winter – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Below-freezing temperatures, gray-cold sky, snow, and ice, it must be winter. But we are not in Phoenix, we are on vacation in Yellowstone National Park for our first winter visit to the park. Saying we are thrilled barely captures a fraction of what we are feeling; this is ecstatic, Wunderbar, delightful, and amazing. Pinching ourselves won’t make this more real; it cannot take away the sense of possibly doing something that could be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. We are at once adults looking through the eyes of a child experiencing all the wonder befitting a curious and imaginative wide-open sense of awe.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Friday night, we flew into Bozeman, Montana, and earlier today, Karst Stage transportation brought us to Mammoth Hot Springs. Melinda at the front desk checked us in, starting our visit on the right foot with her enthusiasm, friendliness, and patience by walking us through all the coupons for meals, tours, snow coach drops, and transfers, making our hot tub appointments, and pointing us to the ski shop. At the front desk of the ski shop, a gentleman by the name of Point set us up with snowshoes and then offered to drive us to the Upper Terrace Loop trail for our first-ever Jack London experience.

Caroline Wise on the Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Neither of us had ever had snowshoes on our feet prior to today, but this is something to fall in love with. If either of us thought we might be clumsy using this new mode of transportation, it didn’t matter as we were up here all alone.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

It’s difficult to comprehend how extraordinary all of this is as 24 hours before, we were in the desert experiencing a day like so many other mild Phoenix days of winter, and now we’re deep in winter but also at Yellowstone, here without thousands of others and a soundscape, unlike anything we’ve heard here before.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

It’s like time has slowed down and is meeting us on our terms compared to the bustle of the summer season.

Caroline Wise on the Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

A mile and a half later, we had finished the trail and decided to walk back to the hotel via the boardwalks of the Terraces instead of getting a ride back from over near the warming hut. Finding the stairs downhill too packed with snow to walk on, we decided to slide down on our bottoms. Woohoo! Those snow pants really did the trick!

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Getting back shortly before nightfall, we went to dinner and met Cody, who would remain our server of choice for the rest of our stay at Mammoth and then it was time for the hot tub. We nervously expected to freeze getting in and out of the water; it was, after all, in the low 20s (about -5c), but to our great surprise, this was a piece of cake. The concrete around the jacuzzi is heated, and getting out of hot 105-degree water (40 Celsius) in freezing weather was easier than one would think – no, there was no wind, and the door to the heated changing room was only steps away.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Our first day in Yellowstone was perfect and nothing less. The photo is on the Upper Terrace with a hot spring reflecting the now-dead tree branches that have been consumed by the hot mineral waters.

Hiking The Grand Canyon

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

[Note: this post wasn’t put together until February 2022 and was not based on notes; it was taken out of memory.]

For the past two months, I’ve been driving my mother-in-law Jutta Engelhardt mad as we went hiking, visited the gym, got her on a bike, had her volunteering at Tonopah Rob’s farm with me, and generally kept her ridiculously busy. Over that time, I never let on why I was pushing her nearly every day to keep moving, but that reason is being shared with her right now. We are hiking her into the Grand Canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

In all her visits to the canyon, of which there are many, we never attempted to hike her into this place as we never felt her health and stamina were up to the task.

Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

So here she is at 73 years old, more than ten years since that first visit back in 1997, and I’m confident she’ll do just fine.

Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Her enthusiasm is great, and she’s excited by the prospect of going on such a hike, though she’s also a bit nervous about “How we’ll get this old lady out of the canyon.”

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

My memory is fuzzy, but I don’t believe I’d be exaggerating if I claimed that Jutta told us 100 times this day how appreciative she was for not only bringing her here but believing she’d be able to do such an extraordinary thing.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Down we went, ensuring she remained sure-footed and relying on the walking sticks. If she fell down along the way, it wouldn’t have been the first time while visiting us in America, but all the training in the gym we’d done in those previous 60 days was to avoid such a potentially scary situation.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

While the ladies made their way down to where these mules were tied up, I raced down to snap a few photos.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

And when I rejoined Caroline and Jutta I was able to grab a couple more images of the mules on their way back to the rim after their break.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As for us…

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

…we’ve reached the halfway point at Cedar Ridge. Now that the easy stuff is out of the way, time to get serious.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

But not before admiring the canyon for another moment as we had lunch, visited the toilet hut, and smiled at each other a lot.

Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Now, Jutta’s endurance is about to be seriously challenged.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Notice that she’s still smiling.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We stopped frequently with Jutta, apologizing that she was slowing us down. Of course, we reassured her that we were here JUST for her, and this was all about her accomplishing a hike in the Grand Canyon in her 70s. This was worth every second we were spending with her here.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We did have a bit of a scare towards the end of the hike as snow flurries were dusting the area, and it felt like we were losing light, but we just kept on going forward.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

After 8 hours out here hiking the 2.8-mile roundtrip trail to Cedar Ridge, we were done, and the smile should tell you everything.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We celebrated this grand accomplishment in the Grand Canyon with our favorite hot chocolate on earth at El Tovar. Here’s to winning!

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We’re driving home tonight as this milestone in Jutta’s life has been achieved, and there is nothing left to do here except start bragging.

Grand Canyon hiker Laurent "Maverick" Gaudreau at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

This is epic Grand Canyon hiker Laurent “Maverick” Gaudreau. We met him on the bus out to the South Kaibab Trailhead. We learned of his incredible feat of hiking rim-to-rim 100 times just the year before during his 80th year. Not a year after I took this photo, he would take his wife’s and his life.

Grand Canyon With Jutta

Flagstaff, Arizona

[Note: this post wasn’t put together until February 2022 and was not based on notes, purely taken out of memory.]

We didn’t get out of Phoenix very early, as the time stamp on these old images showed us reaching this meadow near Flagstaff around 1:00 in the afternoon. With the Grand Canyon National Park so close to us, we have the luxury of late-day departures and still arriving at the canyon in time for sunset.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

That’s Lookout Studio, designed by the inimitable Mary Jane Colter, meaning the building on the left, not the giant canyon in the background.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s too late to get very far down the Bright Angel Trail, but that’s okay, as sunset and dinner await us.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

By this time, I was sitting on my hands in excitement as on this visit to the Grand Canyon, something extraordinary was in order, but Jutta wasn’t going to learn about it until the next day.

Dante’s View as Overlook of Death

Started the day thinking we would drive out to Racetrack Playa with our puny two-wheel-drive sedan – wrong. When the sign says recommended for high clearance vehicles, well, at least here in Death Valley, they mean it. One of these days, we’ll see those mysterious sliding rocks.

Now, with about 8 hours to play with as the Playa is off the itinerary, we’ll have to satisfy ourselves with other sites. Flowers are a nice start.

And more flowers.

We are often asked, “What’s to do in Death Valley?” If layers of multi-hued rocks, sand, salt flats, grand vistas, the occasional wild animal, extremes, hanging out below sea level, views of things you’ve never seen with your own eyes, and the stinkiest toilets in Southern California (at Bad Water, especially when in Summer) are of no interest to you and your experiences, you might hate being in Death Valley. But, if you are intrigued by things never seen, smelled, or felt by your senses, then this place will have things in abundance for you.

The next stop was Dante’s View, one of the more famous overlooks of Death Valley and the salt bed below. A few years ago, a flood of near biblical proportions inundated this National Park. Had we been here those days, we would have been looking out at a very temporary lake that, in places, was two feet deep. Some people canoed across the basin, likely the only time in their lives they would have that opportunity.

In the month that followed the most intense wildflower explosion occurred, which we did not learn of until the tail end of the phenomenon and sadly missed it. Now we’re stuck with this dried-out salty white view of a lonely desert. Oh, well, at least there are these human ornaments enhancing the view.

Maybe it’s the psychedelic attraction at work here, as images such as these trigger memories from long ago.

Like us, Jutta never tires of seeing these sights as we try to cement impressions deep into our histories.

Yesterday, I wrote about Bennetts Long Camp and the naming of this desert valley to reflect what it did to some of those who passed through over 150 years ago; here’s another sign identifying their way into death.

I don’t believe I knew prior to today and our walk on this trail that there were water-carved slot canyons here.

So, just how did this aggregate fill what appears to have been a burrow that seems to have been dug into accumulating layers of sedimentary sand well before it turned to rock? Was this once a home for a creature long ago?

One day, we’ll need to carry a book about the geological history of this region with us so we might better understand precisely what’s been going on here across time.

Into the sand dunes because nobody can ever experience too many environments in a single day.

We didn’t make it out to those dunes, but maybe someday.

While I didn’t share a photo, as I’m already posting so many here today, I’d taken images of the fading stars as we entered the park along with the first glimmers of sunrise, but this moonrise couldn’t be ignored.

A good macro lens would have come in handy in photographing these fine examples of salt crystals branching off like fibers reaching for the sunlight.

As above, so below.

Happy mom and fortunate daughter after another tremendous day experiencing the extraordinary.