Annular Eclipse Over the Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

With Brinn and Chris in tow, Caroline and I took a road trip this Sunday north to the Grand Canyon, our scenic location choice to see an Annular Eclipse. Obviously, this photo does not show the eclipse, though I was tempted to open this post with an image of it because I have two spectacular ones I’m sharing below, but that would be out of sequence. What this is, is a rattlesnake and the very first one I’ve ever seen in the Grand Canyon, and yes, I did get down and intimate with this chill snake that had its rattle stowed.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

While not the typical view of the Grand Canyon, it is the one I’m sharing from our perch at the Desert View Watchtower. This is where the Colorado River, after coming in from the North, turns west. Near the top right of the photo is a very dark shadow, which is a side canyon delivering the waters from the Little Colorado River from Eastern Arizona.

Annular Eclipse at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As the sun was eclipsed the colors over the canyon took on otherworldly hues, looking like we were transported to Mars.

Annular Eclipse at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I was shooting through a 200mm lens with an ND-9 filter at 100 ISO as I pointed my camera directly at the sun. Caroline took the time to clean up some of the photos from the sequence and, with Photoshop, built this awesome composite of the Annular Eclipse as seen from the south rim of the Grand Canyon.

Even More Grand Canyon

Bright Angel Lodge at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not our first time staying at the Bright Angel Lodge and not our last. Of course, we’d love to stay at the El Tovar every time, but it’s not always easy to snag a room, and at times, it’s quite pricey.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Out into the cold dawn of a Grand Canyon morning as those first rays of sun catching the rim edges always capture our sense of delight.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

America, seen in its flag, in its vastness, and in its immense beauty, is something to be incredibly proud of, but also standing behind that symbol is an immensity of hate, poverty of intellect, and systemic inequality. I have to remind myself when experiencing the great fortune of being able to place ourselves in so many iconic locations that we are profoundly lucky, though intention plays a large role, too. Still, we feel privileged to gaze upon scenes such as this. The point here is that I can’t take for granted that I was by birthright given this opportunity in life to stand in astonishment while simultaneously afforded the responsibility to recognize our collective faults and struggle, if need be, to do what I can in some small capacity to improve not only myself but those around me and our country.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Transitioning into illumination as the light of day descends into the depths of a person, place, or thing, the gravity of its heft, potential, and scope comes into clear view. Keeping a thing, person, or idea in darkness serves nothing aside from allowing a small minority to isolate the coveted opportunity afforded the select few, the riches that arrive with seeing things for what they are, regardless of how difficult it is to grasp their breadth of complexity.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at El Tovar in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As faces and smiles come into focus, we are gazing into the depths of experience that will convey lies, truths, ignorance, hate, love, or any multitude of infinities spread across time that have shaped those people we are encountering. In this sense, we find the Grand Canyon in every person we meet, but rarely do we have the time to hike its depths so that we might better appreciate the extent of where this person’s flow has taken them.

Hot Chocolate at El Tovar at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Then, in a relatively superficial moment, sitting in warm luxury at the edge of reality, a treat creates a shared experience that defines the bonds that bring us closer together in our humanity. If we spend a lifetime tossing vitriol at the ears of each other trying to convince one another of perceived evils, we’ll grow to hate even those we love. Instead, we should sit together, sip hot chocolate, and smile not only at each other but also at the sun that is rising to paint another beautiful day.

El Tovar at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Smile at the memory of the unknown architects who designed this and the surrounding buildings, giving us a sense of place in our southwest parks that endures to this day. By the way, the El Tovar was designed by Charles Frederick Whittlesey, who happens to have been the business partner of Mary Jane Colter, who designed Hopi House next door (pictured below) and a number of other buildings of significance here at the Grand Canyon.

Hopi House at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

With the many times we’ve been to the Grand Canyon and the number of blog posts I’ve made, I’ve likely celebrated this badass woman of the early 20th century more than a few times, maybe writing exactly the same thing but I can’t emphasize enough how she’s up there with women such as Lou Andreas-Salomé and Zaha Hadid as inspirations to my sense of what is a strong intellectual woman.

Hopi House at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not in a thousand years could glass and steel reflect a fraction of the beauty that these buildings offer visitors to this national park.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

You can’t see them from this photo, but you know that the clouds drifting over the canyon are helping us visitors see things in a much more dynamic way compared to if we were here on a cloudless day.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Before marriage, before children, without pets, when life has minor responsibilities, aspiring writers, artists, musicians, and philosophers should consider a gig of working a year or two here in the canyon or maybe up at Yellowstone, as I can only imagine that an extended meditation in these environments will forever change one’s life.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Maybe I could be so fortunate to one day when I am able to settle into being quiet here at the canyon, not needing to record everything I see; I could just sit in contemplation of the time that’s been at work shaping this amazing place.

Scrub Jay at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I don’t remember seeing scrub jays on previous visits; maybe I couldn’t see the tree through the forest. And now, this visit we are seeing a few of them.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I’m here, searching my head, struggling to find something profound to say about pollen cones and the leaves of this tree that could begin to share what it is in me that finds this view so appealing. This should act as my proof that these writing exercises are, but attempts at entertaining a hobby and ultimate mastery may never materialize; then again, I can admit that even when I’m not inspired by any particular genius, I do enjoy trying to find ways into my mind where I might discover a little something that has a bit of sparkle.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

A million years ago, this view wouldn’t have looked just like it does today, not even one hundred thousand years ago would an early human have been gazing upon the exact same image. The rarity of what we see is one of the great treasures of being here in our time; it is mostly unique to our perspective and the precise moment we took out of the multitude of other things that occupy us to see the uncommon. If only we could understand that almost everything we’ll ever see as humans is sublimely uncommon and always incredible.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

These closeup shots of details that don’t offer broad vistas in the background or show uncommon animals, rare plants, or the trash of careless tourists are the things that, when we are present in the Grand Canyon, shape the entire experience, even if our focus and center of attention is the massive canyon and extraordinary colors of earth spread out in every direction.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

How many of my fellow humans, the millions of them that have visited this park since I was born, have also looked at this tree? Has even one of them recognized that it is here?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

How will I ever truly reassemble a day in photographs and words that transcend the scale and potential meaning that even a countless number of those things that I might capture impact my memories as much as the real experience?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As much as I never want to leave and have the images of grandeur slip out of view and fade from memory, I must allow what I was so lucky to witness in this brief visit to be captured by those who will follow. Is it by design that the poverty of narrative can never act as a viable surrogate to bring others into the real experiences of those who journey into remote corners?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

What might have been in the hole that wouldn’t also have been outside of it? Now, if this had been a cave occupied by people instead of an attempt to establish a mine, I’d think that someone was looking for signs of the culture that called this home, but it’s a mine.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

This here then begs the question, at almost regular intervals, sediments were laid down that compacted into harder rock than the layers between them that are crumbling in erosion and disappearing. Were those lake beds at one time, or did the sea that deposited the thicker layers disappear for a time?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Hey Pixar, instead of making movies about talking potatoes and cars, how about throwing your skills at making a movie about the formation of our earth and the passage of time? I can’t be the only nerd who’d like to see this evolutionary process in great detail as a timelapse.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not only is this blog post winding down, but so is our time here at the Grand Canyon. As we finish our re-encounter with this place that is simultaneously ancient and old while also familiar and new, we’ll once again try to bring the enormity of it all with us.

Supergroup Stromatolite at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

A petrified fish eye behind the beak of a turtle is what I see in this rock. I can only wonder what the interpretation of the canyon is to the many pairs of eyes and countless minds that try to experience see when they are visiting.

A Raven at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Maybe a bird finding contentedness soaring over an infinite landscape is a better place to be than the curious human who can never find enough answers to an insatiable curiosity.

Exploring Details in the Grand Canyon

A Raven at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I’m not just a fool; I’m a damned fool because who else in their right mind would consider sharing 33 photos, no matter how beautiful a day it was when ten years later, they finally turn to share the images of said day? Chalk it up to my moment of being a bird brain.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Alrighty then, one down and just these 32 to go.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Alrighty then, two down and just 31 to go.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I guess that won’t really work, will it? Maybe I should start deleting 20 or so of these because what can I possibly have to say about things such as tree needles?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Right, I’ll just follow that story about needles up with how much I love the twisted bark of trees that grow at the edge of the canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

And more rocks of a type I can’t say a thing about but think are as groovy as some of the rocks I’ve encountered on other visits, or in the bottom of the canyon, or in Utah, New Mexico, even Europe somewhere, or other I’ve been.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Sweet God, this is only the 7th photo, and I’m making an even greater fool of myself by seriously blabbering on about really nothing at all.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Maybe all those years ago, when I started this idea of blogging, which in reality was only seven years ago, I should have gone with the popular thing at the time, like the idea of a Photo of the Day blog.

Mule Deer at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I present you with the majestic and beautiful deer just chilling out not raising an eyebrow at us obviously gentle people that exude a love of everything.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Rock kaleidoscopes require no special twisting lens to appear as jeweled refractions of light with dancing colors tickling the eye; they just do it.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Is it even comprehensible that each grain of height that has accumulated here is another slice of time covering an age that dwarfs anything we’ll ever experience in our minuscule 80-ish years?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Alrighty then, I even caught the sign. This is Hermit Shale, dating to about 280 million years old which is closer to the top layers of the canyon you were looking at in the previous photo compared to the stuff at river level that is nearly 2 billion years old.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Before mammals, there was an ocean and landscape teeming with life, such as this fossil of a random mollusk that is over 250 million years old; dinosaurs hadn’t yet appeared

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Not even my mother-in-law is that old. [It’s okay to groan at the stale obligatory joke]

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Trivia points: the blue shirt I’m wearing is one of the shirts I wore down the Colorado River, which I’ll wear until mere threads survive.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I think I’m obsessed.

Black Bridge over the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Yep, we’ve been on that river under that bridge.

Scrub Jay at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Needing to take aim at some inanity due to having difficulty finding deeply meaningful things to say, I’ll just go with…birds fly…for this photo. Oh yeah, this is a scrub Jay, so there’s that, too.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I don’t know why I don’t carry my 70-200mm lens with me to more places, other than the thing is seriously heavy.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Sure, I, too, am thinking that maybe a couple of bird photos could have sufficed, but here’s a third so that’s that.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Canyon view without people.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The same view with people, in this instance, my wife and her mom, Jutta Engelhardt. Looking at my mother-in-law now I might have to reevaluate my joke about her and state as fact that she could be at least 200 million years old.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Come on, John, stop this barrage of endless Grand Canyon views. We get it; you are at the Grand Canyon and love everything you see.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s unbelievable that it’s already been four years since we hiked Jutta down that very trail you see in this photo. A tiny part of the South Kaibab trail that we turned around once we’d reached the Cedar Ridge overlook.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Indulgent lingering is what I’d call this.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I’ll bet this spire has a name, but I can’t find it anywhere; how about my editor-wife Caroline lend a sleuthing hand here?

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Squirrel!

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

This is called Blue Grama, as opposed to old Grandma, who’s traveling with us.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

If the sun is setting, I must be running out of photos for this glorious day.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

But first, I’ll have to take 100 photos of the exact same place because you never know which one will be perfect.

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Talking about perfect.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Even my mother-in-law is pretty grand.

Stars overhead at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The night sky after too many beers.

The Magic of the Grand Canyon

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Williams, Arizona

Late yesterday afternoon, Caroline, Jutta, and I drove up to Williams, Arizona, west of Flagstaff, in order to be well-positioned for an excursion to the Grand Canyon today, and from the photo, I’d guess you’ve already figured out my plan. We are at the Grand Canyon Railway & Hotel and are about to get onboard.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the Grand Canyon Railway in Arizona

You might glean from the seats, from what you can see of them, that we opted for second class. This is hardly my mother-in-law’s first trip to the canyon, and the ride is a short one at little more than 2 hours.

On the Grand Canyon Railway in Arizona

The onboard live entertainment definitely offered a sense of Western flair.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Following our arrival, we needed to find a worthy spot along the rim with just the right view for what came next.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Jutta is being presented with the first rough draft of Stay in The Magic, my book about Caroline and my trip down the Colorado River a couple of years ago.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

These moments are Jutta’s first opportunity to see details of our incredible 19-day journey down the canyon, and while looking at the accompanying photos here in full view of the very place our trip took place, Caroline is offering her a narrative of what things were like for us down below.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Time for lunch over at the El Tovar.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

With the limited daylight of winter, there’d be no rest for the wicked (jet-lagged), and so, with little pause, we headed out for a walk along the canyon rim.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I believe this is the first time we’ve visited the Trail of Time since it opened right around the time we were heading down to Lees Ferry before boarding dories and our first-ever whitewater adventure.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

As Jutta has obviously not yet read my book, and there’s a chance she never will, we are busy explaining that rocks such as this are what we saw a mile below.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The park service has done a great job in demarcating time using brass markers set in the walkway that demonstrate at what point in history and which geological layer you’d be in if time and history were a simple and short trek.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Of course, I failed to photograph the names of many of the rock layers, as who knew I’d want to refer to them in a blog post? Sometimes, I’m an idiot of immense shortsightedness.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

That’s right, this is a rock that is just one of many all around us.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

And before we know it, it’s time to appreciate a bit of sunset before tucking into dinner.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Dinner would, of course, be at El Tovar because style and ambiance dictate it to be so.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Some after-dinner star-gazing, and we’ll head off to sleep.

Still There

Running a rapid on the Colorado river in the Grand Canyon October 2010

Two and a half months ago, Caroline and I finished an 18-day rafting trip down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Truth is, we never really stopped that trip, and a part of us is there every day. Only recently have we been able to look at the video we shot; before this, the images were still too fresh in the mind’s eye. Watching it now, we can’t believe that we were down in that canyon riding whitewater surrounded by history as old as life itself.

For any other journey we have taken in the past years, there would be an accompanying blog entry, and there may yet be one posted here, but for now, all of my efforts go into simply finishing the story – which, by the way, I am currently at the end of day nine and have passed 35,000 words. Over time, I’ll be posting tidbits and moments up here, but first, I have a whole lot of work left in front of me just to finish telling the story.