Going to the Heard Museum

Jutta Engelhardt at the Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Another one in the series of son-in-law and mother-in-law days out. This afternoon starts with Jutta and I having lunch in the courtyard of the Heard Museum on a beautiful winter day.

Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

We tried glomming onto a docent-led tour but understanding this person’s English from a distance proved difficult for native German speaker Jutta so we broke off allowing my mother-in-law to read placards at her own pace.

Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

No matter that we’ve been here before, since both of us have sketchy memories, many of the pieces in the museum are being seen for the first time, so to speak.

Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

And even if we’d remember precisely what we’d seen before, these artifacts from the indigenous people of the Southwest are worth experiencing again and again as reminders of their unique skills and way of seeing the world.

Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

I love the idea that prior to the arrival of my ancestors the people of this continent had a vision of nature and their place in it that was so very different than that of the Europeans; it’s a constant thorn in reality that so much of a culture was destroyed for the sake of hegemonistic rule.

Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Not made of cold marble and stone but of warm wood and similar tones, looking into the souls of how indigenous people saw themselves and their gods should be a treasure and while celebrated here at the Heard, not every state in America has a museum dedicated to recognizing those who came before.

Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Here I’m reminded of the 30,000-year-old clay sculptures found in the Czech Republic, Dogū sculptures from Japan, and the 5,000-year-old Valdivia Figurines from South America. It appears that people from around the globe shared a common need to see their likeness as a work of reverence and art. With this, we conclude another mother-in-law and son-in-law day out.

Art Deco Los Angeles

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at Original Pantry Cafe in Los Angeles, California

Those traditions that rarely change have worked on me one more time, drawing us into The Original Pantry Cafe in downtown Los Angeles. It’s not really about the quality of food that pulls at me but the nostalgia and authenticity of the old-time diner.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in front of World's Largest Coke Bottle in Los Angeles, California

With some time to spare before our scheduled tour began, we drove around downtown looking for whatever, and here we found it at the Coca-Cola bottling plant on South Central Avenue.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

I had booked a walking tour through Downtown Los Angeles with the Los Angeles Conservancy to introduce us to the Art-Deco influence on the city.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

A nice surprise I’d not expected that we were given the opportunity to visit the interiors of some of the buildings we were learning about.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Sadly, I didn’t keep notes about any of this, and, short of researching the locations on the internet, I have nothing else to share besides the images of our walk around downtown.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

With little else to share aside from these images, maybe I should have chosen fewer so I could avoid this sense of obligation to write something.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Well, that wouldn’t have worked as it was difficult enough to only go with the ones you are seeing; I could have easily included ten more photos, maybe more.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Back when labor and material were cheaper it was easier to invest in enduring, ornate architecture instead of the bland plastic utilitarian ugly that permeates modernity.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Detail of the ceiling area.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

The stairs head up in the same building from the two photos above.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

I believe this was a former bank. Some of these places that remain empty are occasionally used as film sets – this is Los Angeles, after all.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Same building, different view.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Back in the “Good Old Days” big money was invested in big architecture so the rich person was immortalized for all to see. Search for “Carnegie Library” on Google for examples of this. Today, wealth builds large private homes, giant yachts, and stuffed garages with a horde of expensive and rare cars.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

This could be a scene out of a location in Germany.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

I’m feeling about as dumb as this skylight and far less beautiful as I struggle to find something to say about it.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

To walk through the streets of L.A., which I’ve done more times than I can count, you’d be excused if you failed to notice things such as I’m sharing in these photos as it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the depravity and decay that oozes over the downtown area.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Maybe the group dynamic is helpful for enabling you to slow down and gaze at the details you won’t see when you are afraid to linger lest someone else notice you are acting like a tourist and vulnerable to being robbed.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Couldn’t have asked for better weather for a walk, but we’re starting to get hungry again.

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

Back when I was an early teen wandering these streets, was I really so distracted by the hookers, winos, loony conspiracy theorists, homeless people, and such to not notice these things, or did I simply not care about the entire picture?

Art Deco Architecture in Los Angeles, California

There were many more sights on this tour where the photos simply looked horrible, but it was a great investment of $15 each for a nearly 2.5-hour tour through a small corner of the history of Los Angeles. I’d gladly do this again.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Vegi Soul in Los Angeles, California

Stretching out and trying new things by stopping in at Vegi-Soul Restaurant here in downtown.

Vegi Soul in Los Angeles, California

I can’t say I’d ever heard of vegetarian soul food before, so this sounded like a perfect option for lunch.

Los Angeles, California

A short drive of fewer than 8 miles was all that was required to bring us to our next destination.

John Wise at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, a.k.a. LACMA, is where we’ve decided to spend the next part of the day.

LACMA in Los Angeles, California

Art is what’s to be observed here in many of its myriad forms.

LACMA in Los Angeles, California

The first piece to catch our eyes, due to its obvious Germanness, was this painting from the German expressionist Conrad Felixmüller. The German words mean: “You stay healthy with bread and quark – that’s why a giant is big and strong.”

Otto Dix at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

I needed zero verification that this work was from one of my favorite artists, Otto Dix. It was abundantly obvious, though I’d never previously seen this piece. It is titled Wounded Man.

In the Japanese Pavilion at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

Now, over to the Japanese Pavilion as we are here to see an exhibit of Asian art we’ve never visited before.

In the Japanese Pavilion at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

Notes of what’s what or maybe if I’d taken photos of the placards that explained the pieces would have been helpful, but Caroline does remind me that the Japanese Pavilion houses a great collection of netsuke, miniature carved figurines that allowed kimono-wearing folks to attach small pouches or boxes to their clothing that traditionally had no other pockets.

In the Japanese Pavilion at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

There was a lot more to the exhibit, but it was these tiny pieces that I enjoyed the most.

In the Japanese Pavilion at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

Are those pickles in my head?

In the Japanese Pavilion at LACMA in Los Angeles, California

Is this the feeling of uncertainty?

Yuta and Jutta at Oki Dog in Los Angeles, California

Dinner was at Oki Dog here on Fairfax, just a couple of miles from the museum. While I have enough photos of this landmark from my youth, this one is special as the guy who made our food heard me talking to my mother-in-law and exclaimed that he had the same name. Well, the same name as it’s spoken but with a different spelling; his name is Yuta and is Japanese, while Jutta is obviously German; we all thought this was funny.

John Hernon – Former Alcatraz Prison Guard

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Attention: These posts following our coastal Christmas-thru-New-Year’s trip are named a bit specifically, that’s because when these were originally shared, they only had one photo each due to bandwidth limitations back in the day. Since that time, I’ve updated them to include images that relate to the details of each day.

Today, Caroline and I visited Alcatraz Island for the first time. Great place, well, as long as you are coming and leaving of your own free will. On the ride over to the island, the last man to get on the ferry was an elderly gentleman who wore a National Park Volunteer patch sewn onto his hat. I’ll introduce him to you later.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

There’s nothing here that hasn’t been shown a thousand times before. I’ll bet a million people a year take this exact photo.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

But then again, from the state of some of the ruins and the proclivity of the area being prone to earthquakes, maybe much of this will fall to the wayside someday.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Why is it always the places forbidden to us that hold the greatest interest for me and where I’d like to wander?

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

And who placed a key in the lock and closed this iron door for the last time?

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

It’s a strange idea that, at one time, this little walkway was once part of the path of freedom. People who worked on the island moved within the manicured landscape with walkway lights and housing on the bay with some of the best views.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

While prisoners behind bars might hear the ocean and smell the ocean, only rarely would they see the ocean.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

In their regimented universe in which these abominations to public safety were warehoused, a club of felons established their own government with rules that survived within the captivity of other men with equally harsh rules. But for all the discipline an incarcerated man can bring to bear while in prison, it’s ironic that they weren’t able to live on the outside with a similar set of guidelines.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

What the National Park Service here at Alcatraz can never share with visitors is what it sounded like back during the days when Al Capone called this home.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Five feet wide and nine feet long with a ceiling just seven feet overhead, this is where some of the worst of the worst lived and died.

Caroline Wise, John Hernon, and John Wise at Alcatraz Prison in San Francisco, California

About that volunteer who boarded with us, it turns out this guy was a prison guard while Alcatraz was still operating. Now 84 years old, John Hernon visits the island at least once a month to break out of the routine and tell some of us lucky tourists stories of his time on the Rock. He enjoys having his picture taken, unlike Sean Penn, who we ran into on New Year’s Eve at a small burger joint. He promptly gave me the finger as I raised my camera – no, I didn’t take a picture of him or his finger.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

The kitchen looks as though you could put it back to work today.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Back in early 1963, the prison was closed and started to fall into decay. Ten years later, the island prison became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area with things starting to be stabilized. Finally, in 1986, the island was opened to visitors.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

I’d like to believe that guards had cushy jobs out here, but it can get cold and windy out on San Francisco Bay; I’m pretty sure those guard shacks were not heated back in 1934 when the prison was first opened.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

Remnants of an old history are tossed everywhere, in the surf, too.

Alcatraz in San Francisco, California

So much of the island is off-limits to us visitors; I’m certain it’s all the most interesting stuff, too. We could have explored the island and what’s left of the buildings all day, but our time was over too soon.

Street Musician in San Francisco, California

This is Michael Masley, known as The Artist General. He’s on the street playing his Cymbalom, and you bet we bought a CD from him. Amazing watching and listening to this man play his unique instrument.

Caroline Wise at the Original Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop in San Francisco, California

With plenty of time before dinner, it was a great idea to grab a tiny snack at the Original Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop. Why split a sundae when you can have two, along with a hot chocolate? Okay, one of those hot fudge sundaes was mine.

Maritime Museum in San Francisco, California

After our ice cream indulgence, it was a short walk to the Maritime Museum for a quick tour.

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships in San Francisco, California

And not far away, well just across the street really, are the Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships.

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships in San Francisco, California

This photo was taken on the Eureka, a 19th-century paddle steamboat.

San Francisco, California

We weren’t about to eat a thing here at Fishermans Wharf as we had bigger and better plans.

Millennium Restaurant in San Francisco, California

We had reservations for Millennium Restaurant, a vegan affair created by chef Eric Tucker. If I could employ this amazing chef to cook for Caroline and me in Phoenix, I’d convert to veganism in a second. Our rather pricey dinner here was one of the best meals I’ve ever enjoyed.

Caroline’s Birthday

Near Seacliff south of Santa Barbara we stopped at dawn along the Pacific coast for this gorgeous orange slice of sunrise sandwiched between a light blue sky and the still dark ocean

Attention: This post had a few extra images added to it in 2022 to offer a better overview of what was seen on this day.

Today is Caroline’s birthday. Our original plan was to go to Disneyland yesterday, as today is Monday, and Caroline should be at work, but family is a higher priority, so we tended to that.

Near Seacliff south of Santa Barbara we stopped at dawn along the Pacific coast for this gorgeous orange slice of sunrise sandwiched between a light blue sky and the still dark ocean

These moments on the coast are not about an early morning respite from Tata and Woody; I’m taking Caroline home today and turning around tomorrow to come back. With my uncle in the hospital, there’s not a lot to be done, and family friend Boyd has agreed to get Tata to and from the hospital to visit him, so these duties are covered.

Mission Basilica San Buenaventura in Ventura, California

So, as much as possible, we’ll take our time getting back to Phoenix, as after today, it looks like I’ll be away for about a week or so. This is the Mission Basilica San Buenaventura in Ventura.

Sunrise at beach in Ventura, California

We spent about an hour along the ocean watching the sunrise.

General Patton Memorial Museum at Chiriaco Summit, California

Now it’s birthday time with a visit to the General Patton Memorial Museum at Chiriaco Summit because what’s better than sharing with Caroline some history of the guy who helped kick the Huns’ ass.

General Patton Memorial Museum at Chiriaco Summit, California

Where was this when I started dating Caroline?

General Patton Memorial Museum at Chiriaco Summit, California

It’s kind of strange that you can see more swastikas in America than in all of Germany.

General Patton Memorial Museum at Chiriaco Summit, California

…and this, Caroline, was the tank that blew Hitler’s head off. From Caroline, “John, just what kind of idiot are you?”

No time to linger as we are now trying to reach Phoenix before 6:30 when Caroline has a final in her Visual Basic class at Paradise Valley Community College.

Bosque Redondo – The Long Walk

Geiler Cattle Company in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

After leaving the Guadalupe Inn in Whites City, New Mexico, the three of us had breakfast in Roswell at the Nuthin’ Fancy Cafe. After a ton of desert and not one alien, we stopped for a laugh here off State Route 20 and the intersection of Altito Road, but if you don’t read German, you may not know why we stopped. You see, Geiler in German means hornier, and the idea of some serious horny cattle out there as though that were a possibility, well, that seemed pretty funny to us.

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Not so funny is this shrine to a mass murderer, but because this psycho arrives out of the over-romanticized Old West, he’s a kind of folk hero. So, what’s in the Billy The Kid Museum?

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Oh, a gun that maybe he used to murder someone. It makes me wonder why we don’t have a roadside museum dedicated to Jeffrey Dahmer featuring power tools and blood-stained towels for processing the eating of his victims.

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Okay, this fits: why not feature racist iconography out of the dark past, as those who worship at the feet of villains might enjoy memories of better times?

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Right on, some angry injun beating his drum, that works for this abomination of a place.

Billy The Kid Museum in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

I think the wheels fell off this once-quaint idea of building a museum to this type of character.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Bosque Redondo was the end of the trail for over 8,000 Navajos who were force-marched off their lands and into New Mexico on what is known as “The Long Walk.” A new visitor center has opened here on these grounds next to the Pecos River in Fort Sumner, New Mexico. I would have supplied a link to more information, but the links are a hit-and-miss hodgepodge of snippets of info that fail to go into great detail about the significance behind the memorial.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

This map shows a proposed route of what could one day be the Long Walk National Historic Trail.

Pecos River at Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

We are out on the interpretive trail; this is the Pecos River running through the Memorial Park.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

This memorial was just opened back on June 4th, not even 3o days ago; even the dragonflies are new.

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

The exhibits in the facility are not yet all-together there; this is all a bit of work in progress.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

And if you arrive in the summertime, expect the temperatures to be north of 100 degrees (40c).

Bosque Redondo Memorial in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

There’s a nearby photo that depicts Native Americans under armed guards building the barracks for the white guys, except those were built with adobe bricks; we’re guessing this is a recreation over the foundation, so we get the idea.

Billy the Kid grave site in Fort Sumner, New Mexico

Nearby, the Billy The Kid Grave Site is guarded by a cage, and somehow, people want to throw money at it and leave flowers. Next week, I’m gonna set up a shrine and museum in honor of John Gacy, the Killer Clown, so people pay my bills by throwing their spare change at his headstone. Don’t go telling me or anyone else that he was cremated because that doesn’t matter; we just need a place, some artifacts, and maybe some body parts.

Encino, New Mexico

Encino, New Mexico, simply turned into a ghost town and is being allowed to crumble. Too bad Charles Manson didn’t kill people here.

Encino, New Mexico

Maybe Kenneth Pinyan, a.k.a. Mr. Hands and the city of Enumclaw, should come to mind? Last night he died after having his internal organs used as a punching bag by a stallion penis.

Encino, New Mexico

Makes you wonder what kind of bestiality might have been happening out in these parts, seeing how this Encino Motel was under new “menagement,” obviously a play on menagerie and management.

Somewhere on New Mexico Route 60

My mother-in-law’s body is in there, don’t tell anyone.

Rio Grande River in New Mexico

We crossed a fuller-than-usual Rio Grande River; seems I’m kind of full of it, too.

El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico

Of course, we stayed the night in Socorro, as where else should we have had dinner? Staying here allowed us to not only grab our evening meal at our favorite little restaurant in New Mexico – the El Camino Family Restaurant, but you can rest assured that breakfast will also be right here.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park – Day 4

Jutta Engelhardt in Roswell, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Wow, I was wrong about where we were going to be last night! We ended up at the Sands Motel in Portales, New Mexico. From there, it was only 90 miles over to the Nuthin Fancy Cafe in Roswell, New Mexico, for breakfast. If you think my mother-in-law had any interest in visiting the world-famous UFO Museum and Research Center, you’d be nuts; this lady came out of having survived World War II in Germany and could give 2 cents of concern about some crazy idea that a UFO landed nearby. Yeah, I thought the same thing, “Your loss old lady.”

Jutta Engelhardt at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We made our way to Carlsbad Caverns National Park instead because in America’s natural wonders, Jutta has a big interest.

Oh, look, it’s the Cave Door Greeter, kind of like the human equivalent at Walmart or Costco.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After selling my mother-in-law on how great the slow trail through the Natural Entrance to the Big Room is, she agreed to go for a little walk.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Caroline and I have already visited Carlsbad Caverns on three previous visits in 1998, 1999, and 2002; I hadn’t anticipated that I’d still be able to appreciate it as much as I am.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There’s one thing missing as Jutta and I make our way into the cave: the chatter of her and Caroline nattering on in German about what they are looking at.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are eight more images from inside the cave following this one; you can rest assured that I feel like deleting all of them and cutting to the juicy bits that will follow later in the evening.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But I love these photos, even if they are only 8 megapixels each.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

These contrasting colors and various rock types, many of them coated in the frozen minerals leached out of the surrounding earth, make for striking images and are on a scale that makes one feel like the puny little human one is.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are three other visitable caves nearby, including Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Slaughter Canyon Cave, that we’ve yet to visit. I think we need to better plan our spontaneous trips.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just imagine what these might have looked like when water was flowing over them. Over at nearby Lechuguilla Cave, one might see it (if they are a scientist and can wait years for permission after convincing the park service that their research is worthy and they have the requisite skills for serious caving).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Of course, one could visit Kartchner Caverns in Benson, Arizona, to see a living cave system, but with their no-photography rules I fail to understand the attraction fully. I need photos, or we were never there.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We actually have been to Kartchner because when I bought tickets they didn’t tell me ahead of time that photography wasn’t allowed. I can’t even remember what I saw as my jaw was clenched down so tightly that it apparently obscured my vision and erased my memory. Now consider this view of yet another psychedelic chamber: I know I was here, right here at the spot where this photo was taken, and that makes this place sit in my memories for years, and if ever I need a reminder, I just look back to these days and revel in the experiences we’ve been able to obtain.

[Or could it be that you have no memory of Kartchner because the cave tour itself felt very short, the bats were off lounging in Mexico, and the seeming majority of our visit was spent looking at some light show accompanied by new-agey music? – Caroline]

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

No tripod, handheld, not the best ISO, and still, I managed to snap off three portrait images of this giant cascade to stitch into a panorama.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Those are soda straw formations and represent the end of our self-guided tour of Carlsbad, well, the caverns anyway; there’s more to come above ground.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

At dusk, you might be so lucky, depending on the time of year, that you too can witness the Bat Flyout. My mother-in-law had one word to describe this phenomenon, “Sagenhaft,” which translates to fabulous or amazing.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

Sadly, the bats missed this cockroach, probably because it and a bevy of its friends were camping out in what can easily be described as the worst room ever in any of the cheap motels we’ve sunk to staying in.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This one, though, will not be stayed in. It took everything in my power to remain in this room to take these photos.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

So disgusting it was I didn’t even bother to haggle about a refund; I simply wanted my mother-in-law and me to put as many miles between us and this shithole as quickly as possible. Sadly, this was the only motel in Las Cruces that had availability, which meant that though it was approaching midnight, we’d have to tough it out for another hour until we reached Deming, New Mexico, with fingers crossed we’d find a room

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

While it might be difficult to make out, I believe this is the outline of a dead body and the single greatest contributing factor as to why this room smells something worse than hell.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

I’m still trying to figure out what happened to the curtains.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This was that place of nope, the Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Seriously, nothing compares to this in all of our travels.