The Lonely Start to a Long Drive

Route 202 at the New Hampshire State Line

The big temporary separation started this morning when I took Caroline to the airport in Portland, Maine, for her flight to Phoenix via Chicago. Afterward, our car got an oil change, which was about 1,000 miles overdue but proved impossible to get done in Canada, where a couple of places couldn’t do it because of either a lack of parts or staff. From Highway 114, I was soon transitioning to the 202, where things started looking familiar. Sure enough, this is also Route 9, the Franklin Pierce Highway, that we traveled on our way to Kennebunkport, Maine, so many weeks ago, though it feels like something more than a month or two. I didn’t stop for a single photograph; the one I took of the New Hampshire State Line was taken from a traffic backup out of my car window. Having taken over 6,800 photos on this vacation thus far, I hoped to drive away as far as possible from the congested area of the New England States and aimed the car at Cobleskill, New York, while taking a break from photography.

Route 9 at the Vermont State Line

There’s an incredible void in the car. What’s missing is Caroline’s banter, enthusiasm, and chatter, her pointing things out, suggesting places to pull over, or asking what I think about particular detours. I tried listening to music to mask the silence, but her input about what could play next was obvious, and I soon tired of my choice, so I just kept driving, growing hungrier but still wanting to put some serious miles behind me.

I want to hear my wife’s voice or know she’d landed in Chicago. That didn’t happen until about 3:30 after I pulled into Keene, still in New Hampshire, where I found somewhere that sounded reasonable for lunch; maybe this is an early dinner. A text arrives: she’s maneuvering the frustrating labyrinth of O’Hare Airport and telling me about her trek. Once she’s situated at her next gate, and I’m done with my meal, we’ll talk, and my experience says I’ll only miss her more while wishing she had another week of vacation to share the drive of nearly 3,000 miles ahead of me.

Somewhere on Route 9 in Vermont

Spending 24 hours a day, seven days a week together doesn’t create the tensions others might think could arise. The opposite happens: we grow fonder, more affectionate, more enchanted with the unfolding world we hope never stops.

Now, I have to fight the urge to bolt home because being out here in America allows me to catch up with the neglected 12 days of writing. If I were to arrive in Arizona without having at least tried to knock out some of the estimated 20,000 words I’ll likely pen for those posts, I’d fall into talking with various people at coffee shops back home, delaying everything well into October and pushing out the continuation of working on my book that’s been on hold for more than a few months by now.

Somewhere on Route 9 in Vermont

My lunch is done, and I still have 137 miles ahead. Google says it’ll take me 3.25 hours to cover that ground, probably because I’m avoiding major highways and toll roads. With my lunch bill paid, it’s time to get to the car and call Caroline to whine about how much I miss her.

Family Dollar off Route 9 on the way to Bennington, Vermont

As obnoxious as those damned Subway restaurants, dollar stores of whatever brand are of an ilk I despise. Today, it will serve a useful purpose, and I should appreciate that, but my senses tell me that these blights on the landscape are here to prey upon the poor while facilitating the never-ending loop of poverty. The details are superfluous, but that’s okay; what I share in my writing is allowed to dip into banalities. Caroline forgot the USB charging cable for her phone at the motel, and there was no way we would drive back, considering that at that time, we were also looking for breakfast, which was not easy somehow (we ended up settling on Starbucks). After trying a major grocery store and Target, we had to give up, and I gave her my cable. At Family Dollar outside of Bennington, Vermont, I was able to get what I needed, but the effort of walking into this store sapped any remaining energy I could muster, so I altered my route, saving me two more hours of driving. I turned in at the Catamount Motel in Bennington and collapsed in shame.

Writing that last sentence, I smiled to myself but realized I couldn’t let it stand. No matter how much I may have wanted to end this post on that perfect little tidbit of drama, I do not wilt that easily. Note to my editor: do not contradict me, or else. [….right. Caroline]

Hopewell Rocks to Maine

Sunrise from Shepody Inn in Shepody, New Brunswick, Canada

Overpowered by the stunning sunrise, the Bay of Fundy out between the trees is inching closer to low tide, though it may be difficult to see in the early light of dawn. We’ll find ourselves out there soon enough, but first, breakfast, courtesy of our hosts at the Shepody Bay Inn, Seydou and his wife Luba, who are also part owners of the inn. From last night during check-in and here again this morning, it is abundantly obvious that customer service is the highest priority here, which works magic to create a sense that this is one of those places that would easily bring back former guests for future visits. [As a token of our gratitude for Seydou and Luba’s hospitality, we gave them a cloth bag from Frankfurt’s Blutspendedienst (blood donation services) which has been traveling with us for decades, to pin to their wall of appreciation that is covered with many notes, letters, and mementoes of their guests from all over the world – Caroline]

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

Attesting to the popularity of the Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park on the Bay of Fundy, no matter how early you arrive, others will have arrived before you. Spoiler alert: Caroline and I did not stick around long enough to witness the tidal change here at one of the most famous places on earth to see that phenomenon of extreme tidal variation (as much as 52 feet/16 meters!). We only had time to go for a walk around the rocks.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

While I’m okay with the photos I was able to capture, this is not an easy place to grab great images due to the difficulty of working with the light and high contrast between the rocks that are almost up in your face compared to the bright background. Then, there’s also the issue of how one might feel about others in their shots. Obviously, I got lucky from time to time and could wait for a passersby to dip behind a rock or be caught in the shadows, becoming part of the silhouette.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

If you don’t want to get muddy, this is not the place for you. You could choose to view the rocks from the tower that brings visitors down to the shore, but you’d miss a lot of other sites that are equally beautiful.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

I see the advantage of living nearby and being able to dip into the park at various times across the day and week, as low and high tides are a moving phenomenon that will seriously affect what you will see and where you can visit. While today at 9:00, we were afforded this opportunity to traverse the majority of the shoreline; if we’d been here ten days earlier or ten days later, the seafloor would have been underwater, making it inaccessible, requiring us to visit later in the day unless we joined a kayak tour of the area.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

Adding Hopewell Rocks to our long list of natural sites we’ve visited over the years, while significant for us, doesn’t dent what remains and will always be there unexplored by us because with an estimated 60,000 to 110,000 natural and historic sites distributed over the earth, it’s obviously impossible that anyone will ever be able to accomplish such a feat. If I were to make an intense effort, I could scour our blog posts and come up with a fairly close approximation of how many hundreds, possibly low thousands of sites we’ve been lucky enough to visit, but I doubt we’d find more than maybe 3,000 such places, potentially significantly less. This is not a lament; it only adds to our sense of wonderment that these two people who love these situations equally were able to discover one another and then find the ability to bring ourselves into these exotic places of such joy.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

To those of you who were not here on the day of our visit, thank you for not cluttering the environment with your presence and your loud voices or music. To the influencers looking to inspire over-tourism by your antics of glamorizing yourself for likes, we are thrilled that you’ve not found the Maritimes yet.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

I know there was an epic photo here somewhere; there was a vantage point that would have given me that photo, but I couldn’t find it.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

Hey, Caroline, is the perfect photo I’m searching for over there?

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

“Yes, John, it was here, but the clouds are coming in fast, so you’d better get to it.”

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

Rarely has mud ever looked so beautiful.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park at Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada

By this time, we’d gone farther, lingered longer, and seen more than we’d ever anticipated here at the Bay of Fundy, but we had an appointment in America for a reservation in Portland, Maine, so we were heading for the exit.

Lobster at Collins Lobster Shop in Alma, New Brunswick, Canada

After some days away from lobster rolls and with last night’s reencounter, we are now well aware that our chances to indulge in the luxury of such fresh lobster are coming to an end, and so lunch was easily inspired after passing a few roadside signs directing us to Collins Lobster Shop in Alma. An hour down the road and shifting our awareness to the dwindling opportunity for another particular bit of decadence, Caroline finds Snow’s Softserve & Ice Cream in Hampton, which turns out to have orange and licorice swirl flavor ice cream, better known as tiger tail.

Fall foliage near Machias, Maine

Fortunately, the weather was kind of bleak on our drive out of Canada, but it was also that way entering Maine, which meant we had to make an effort to stop for something to note that we’d arrived back in the U.S.

Fall foliage near Machias, Maine

It’s about time to say goodbye to fall colors, at least for Caroline, who will return to the desert tomorrow night, where it’s still full on summer. If only we could say goodbye to those damned billboards for Subway, which we’ve easily seen over 100 of, advertising that crummy chain of restaurants, while zero moose have been seen.

Davis Pond in Eddington, Maine

With our efforts to take photos finished, it was time to return to Caroline reading out loud in the car, which we had skipped over the past few weeks during which we were always on the lookout for where to stop next. Opening the Kindle, we picked up where we left off a month ago in The Marshes of Mount Liang, a.k.a. The Water Margins, a.k.a. The Rebels of Mount Liang, in chapter 41 of 120. The chapter title was Song Jiang Plans the Capture of Wuweijun; White Eel Takes Bee Sting Huang Alive!, probably the longest chapter in the book so far. An absolutely riveting chapter at that.

Lobster Roll from Red Barn Restaurant in Augusta, Maine

Finally, there are more lobster rolls, especially a proper all-American one, such as this perfect example from the crazy popular Red Barn Restaurant in Augusta. This effectively brings us to the end of our vacation.

The Maritimes are Calling

View from Lubec, Maine

That’s Canada on the horizon, though that sounds like something far away. It’s just across the narrow bay connected by a short bridge that will bring us to Campobello Island, but first there are things to do and places to be.

Quoddy Head Lighthouse in Lubec, Maine

Quoddy Point Lighthouse. Sure, we’ve been here before, but that morning, it was foggy, and now, 17 years later, memories of the day are foggy, too, so a revisit felt perfectly in order. Then there’s the proven scientific fact that people can never get enough lighthouse experiences, well, at least people such as us.

Back at our lodge at the water’s edge, we were greeted by Jovana from Montenegro, who’s also rafted the Tara River in her home country. Our lobster benedict was a nice start, but the vibrant conversation with this temp worker really made our time in Lubec wonderful. From this tiny outpost in the Eastern United States, she’ll be leaving on Monday for a vacation that will take her to Miami, New York, and Chicago before taking the long series of flights that will return her to friends and family in Montenegro.

Mullholland Point Lighthouse on Campobello Island, New Brunswick, Canada

And in mere minutes, we arrived in New Brunswick, Canada, for our first lighthouse experience on this side of the border for this vacation. It is the Mulholland Point Lighthouse in Welshpool on Campobello Island.

Lubec, Maine as seen from Campobello Island, New Brunswick, Canada

See you later, America. From here, if you look hard, you might be able to see the Redwoods in the far distance, which is, of course, if you buy into the idea of a flat earth. Should you notice hints of familiarity with the previous image, that’s because this is Lubec in Maine from a new perspective that neither Caroline nor I have ever seen.

Ferry approaching on Campobello Island, New Brunswick, Canada

The ferry that will deliver us to Deer Island is arriving.

Deer Island Light Beacon on Deer Island, New Brunswick, Canada

This is the Deer Island Light Beacon. Whose dumb idea was it to build beacons? A beacon is not a sexy brand; it’s a lighthouse or nothing. Once we were off the ferry, we followed the cars that took off like a bullet, as if they knew something we didn’t know. So, instead of stopping for photographs on the island, we maintained our position and raced along with them. Good thing my fox-like instincts were working for us because they brought us directly to the next ferry crossing, which was shortly upon loading for the next crossing. [Also, on this first crossing, we were able to spot the Old Sow from a distance in the water near that beacon. The Sow is a whirlpool formed by currents and tides between these islands, best seen at specific times of the day relating to ebb and flood maximums. Also worth noting, in my opinion, is that the first ferry is privately operated and cost us $30 Canadian, while the next ferry is operated by the province and free of charge. – Caroline]

Ferry from Deer Island to L'Etete, New Brunswick, Canada

Obviously, that’s Europe in the distance. Our next landing was in the small landing at L’Etete on mainland New Brunswick.

On Roachville Road near Sussex, New Brunswick, Canada

It’s a long way to Prince Edward Island today. Whoever planned this trip was entertaining an optimism that might have been misguided or maybe just forgetful of how often we need to stop and document something or other while we crawl over the landscape. With that in mind, we decided that it was, sadly, freeway time again. One option had us driving around St. John, and the other was to stop in town for lunch; we took the latter. Lock, Stock, and Barrels, a brewpub, appeared to be as good a choice as any if we were to continue our sampling of lobster rolls, and with an upgrade of our sides to poutine, we fared perfectly well. Afterward, we rejoined the freeway, but by the town of Sussex, after 47 grueling non-descript miles (75 kilometers), we left that stupid freeway and encountered Roachville Road and the speed of travel that serves us best.

Smith Creek No. 1 Covered Bridge near Sussex, New Brunswick, Canada

Not as ubiquitous as corn, there are probably, though not exactly likely, more covered bridges than one could throw the proverbial stick at. Maybe if I had many sticks, I could throw sticks at them all, but then who really wants to create problems with poetic metaphors? Little could we have known that our detour and encounter with the Smith Creek #1 Tranton Covered Bridge from 1927 and other things along the road would add something special to our drive today, beyond all the lighthouses.

Trash collection box on Roachville Road near Sussex, New Brunswick, Canada

This peculiar roadside box plays a role in today’s adventure.

Smith Creek near Sussex, New Brunswick, Canada

Smith Creek, seen here, while not playing an essential role in the story that’s about to follow, certainly adds to the beauty narrative that the freeway was failing to deliver.

The Alston Farmhouse in Newtown, New Brunswick, Canada

This is the Alston Farm, and I wouldn’t have known that had I not been willing to stop and ask the man doing yardwork a question. You see, the peculiar box we’d seen was not the first one, different-shaped boxes, painted versions, and like right here, some houses had none. With this man in his front yard, we could confirm just what they were, though we had our hunches. Sure enough, they are trash bins, not Amazon delivery boxes.

Canadian Twenty-Five cent piece featuring the Oldfields Covered Bridge in Mount Pisgah, New Brunswick, Canada

The man we were talking to was 88-year-old Bob Alston, the friendliest Canadian we’ve met on this trip so far. True, it’s only been a few hours in Canada, but this guy will be the yardstick to measure all others. Aside from learning about why he doesn’t use the trash boxes and part of his career working for the promotion of the Sussex area, New Brunswick, and Atlantic Canada (the term he preferred over the Maritimes), he also shared a story about the Oldfields Covered Bridge in nearby Mount Pisgah, that we had already passed but failed to visit. The area’s covered bridges became important to Bob and his wife Sandra when, for several years, before the nearby freeway changed the route that would take travelers right by their home, the husband and wife were selling all manner of memorabilia and souvenirs regarding the nearby landmarks from a small shop they set up in their home.

Back in the 1990s, Canada was searching for design proposals for themed provincial quarters that were to be minted in celebration of Canada’s 125th Anniversary of Confederation, and as luck would have it, the Oldfields Covered Bridge erected in 1910 was the one chosen out of the 400 submissions for New Brunswick. After telling us about this, he asked if we’d like one of those old quarters. Heck yeah, we would, telling him enthusiastically. He went into the house and brought out two, one for each of us, so we wouldn’t have to quarrel over them.

Oldfields Covered Bridge in Mount Pisgah, New Brunswick, Canada

We turned our car around, drove back down the road, and waited patiently for the sun to find a way through the rapidly moving clouds. Another story Bob told us was that in their earliest days, covered bridges were also known as kissing bridges because they would allow young couples a moment of privacy when they could steal a kiss without anyone else seeing them. Turned around yet again, we stopped in front of Bob’s driveway and thanked him one more time for being so generous with not only the rare coin but with his time as we distracted him from his chores.

Havelock, New Brunswick, Canada

That experience and many others that Caroline and I enjoy are things that can’t be had when traveling on freeways; there is no human contact when we are speeding down major highways, and at best, we earn the anger of fellow drivers for their perceived grievances. It is, in large part, the chance of encounters such as today that make our efforts to go slow all the more worthwhile.

Caroline Wise and the Giant Lobster of Shediac, New Brunswick, Canada

I thought we’d just drive by it. I can’t tell you why I was momentarily so delusional, but there I was with Caroline by my side telling me I needed to turn around because she had to have a photo of the Giant Lobster of Shediac. While I took the photo, I was more concerned with finding an angle to reference Gilles Deleuze in the paragraph, but then I thought I’d also have to mention Jordan Peterson. While I love the French philosopher, the Canadian professor is too far off in the weeds in my opinion, lacking credibility with his bologna concept of Deleuze’s “lobster god,” representing a rejection of traditional values and a celebration of nihilism and chaos, but this is a vacation, not a moment of delving into kooks and thinkers. Instead, celebrate the fisherman who hasn’t flinched or changed his gaze in 34 years, the world’s largest lobster, and my wife, like I do.

Two women performing publicly in Shediac, New Brunswick, Canada

Every so often, we must stop for one thing or another, and so it was in Shediac. Leaving a gas station, we noticed a couple of young women who were fully set up and performing in French for anyone interested in town. Nice touch, Canada.

Waterway in Boudreau, New Brunswick, Canada

This is the southern end of Lake Boudreau on Route 133, which means we have another 40 minutes of driving ahead of us before we move from one Canadian province to another.

Moose warning near Port Elgin, New Brunswick, Canada

The relative size of a moose to a car is no joke, nor is being able to read these signs in French, though it is much easier to figure out with the English equivalent printed next to it.

View from Jourimain Island, New Brunswick, Canada

Looking west from Jourimain Island in New Brunswick, our brief eight or nine-hour first encounter with this province has been a positive and beautiful one, though I knew nothing about this part of Canada compared to its famous places such as Vancouver, Banff, Québec City, Newfoundland, and Prince Edward Island. I’d imagine that if time allowed, there would be a thousand other beautiful locations in New Brunswick that would only require people to leave the expediency of the freeway and venture into the heart of the country.

Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island at Cape Jourimain, New Brunswick, Canada

Speaking of Prince Edward Island, this is the Confederation Bridge that crosses the Northumberland Straight and is Canada’s longest bridge, spanning eight miles or almost 13 kilometers. We have finally arrived but are still more than an hour away from our lodging.

Sunset from Prince Edward Island, Canada

Add a couple more minutes to our travels as the epic final moments of the sunset demanded that we stop yet again. Tired and only wanting to reach our hotel, we skipped grabbing a bite at a gas station or dipping into Charlottetown, figuring the restaurant at Shaw’s Hotel would be open; it is Friday night, after all. Wrong, they closed at 8:00, and it was 8:30 when we pulled up. While I was checking in, a staff member came over and told me that after hearing about our situation, the chef offered to make us something easy, like pizza, salad, or maybe both. We enthusiastically and profusely thanked them, saying yes to a pepperoni pizza and two small Caesar salads. When I asked about the bill, they booked it to our room and offered to deliver the meal so we could unpack our car. Here we were, on the edge of the universe facing the Gulf of St. Lawrence, around the corner from the North Atlantic, and we were going to have a hot, fresh pizza delivered to a cottage in the middle of nowhere. This is a privilege.

Slow Going in Maine

Kennebunkport, Maine

Driving back into the center of Kennebunkport, we are here with nary a soul which suits us fine after last night’s crowded streets that weren’t inviting us to stop. That’s not absolutely true; we pulled in front of the Crab Shack minutes before they closed to grab a scallop sandwich. That was only possible because the 15-minute parking spots were empty. From our shared quick snack, we went back to our hotel and jumped into the photography/writing routine. But that was then, and this is now.

Kennebunkport, Maine

We were searching for the one iconic image that would scream Kennebunkport more than any other photo, but that proved elusive, so I snapped off photo after photo, and not a single one offered me what I wanted. Truth be told, I’m not enamored with this tiny enclave on the sea as there’s something that’s not us, while the Oregon Coast never seems to fail in charming us, no matter how often we return.

Kennebunkport, Maine

This rusting old anchor stuck in the mud had a certain appeal, and if I had the luxury of contemplating my words and what I’d like to say here, I might find a poetic metaphor for this representational artifact to sum up this morning in a town whose reputation seems larger than the reality of what the place is offering to my senses today.

Kennebunkport, Maine

We are moving out of town and discussing our driving plans, as deviating from my plan of no freeways might require suspension. When I was planning this trip back in April, and I saw that today would require seven hours of drive time, I likely believed or hadn’t considered that getting out at 6:00 in the morning wasn’t ever going to happen, and I admit that I’m a bit surprised at the incredibly slow pace of our travels. If we followed my original plan, we’d drive for about fourteen hours today. Leaving at 8:00 a.m., we wouldn’t be happy getting into Lubec, Maine, after 10:00 p.m., especially as we have to check in by 8:00. The dreaded freeway has become an option.

Walker Point in Kennebunkport, Maine

Silhouetted, the peninsula known as Walker Point appears in view. This is where the Bush family property is located and has been in the family since 1902. With the Texas and U.S. flags flying over the property, I’m quite certain we saw the former president’s entourage last night.

Kennebunkport, Maine

There’s something about their obvious human construct that cairns represent that speaks to me, and likely a lot of other people, on some deeper level and seems to transcend their utility of marking a place or guiding a trail. In an instant, we know that someone else is messaging us, but we typically can never know who. In antiquity, they could have been used as grave markers, and because we are drawn to patterns, especially ones that are natural to the environment, there must be a long history. Our earliest known references begin about 4,000 years ago in the Epic of Gilgamesh, continue with the Iliad and the Odyssey, and are also found in the Old Testament, specifically in the book of Genesis. Due to the temporary structures of cairns, nobody could ever hope one might last even 100 years, but in our imaginations, they seem to last forever and explore something instinctual.

German Protestant Cemetery and Church in Waldboro, Maine

Speaking of stone reminders, we are stopping at the German Protestant Cemetery and Church in Waldoboro, Maine, because not only is the place built by and used by the German community that settled these parts, but there’s also a famous grave on site.

German Protestant Cemetery and Church in Waldboro, Maine

This is not that grave, though it is an interesting tombstone with its off-kilter lean and lichen growing on it. The one that drew us in was that of Conrad Heyer, a Revolutionary War veteran who, at 103 years old in 1852, is one of a handful of people who vie for being the oldest person ever photographed around the time cameras were invented. While Conrad deserved a nice white spire as his gravemarker, it made it difficult to photograph and still be able to read the inscription. Plus, his grave gets photographed a lot, whereas this couple who were entombed nearby in the same plot and had the family name of Benthner are likely never photographed.

German Protestant Cemetery and Church in Waldboro, Maine

The German Protestant Church at the site, built in 1772 and still used occasionally, was locked, but the windows were clean enough that I could snap a few photos. It’s one of the three oldest churches in Maine.

German Protestant Cemetery and Church in Waldboro, Maine

The old part of the graveyard here is the final resting space for some of the area’s earliest settlers, along with soldiers from the Revolutionary War, the War of 1812, and the Civil War.

Fruit stand in Warren, Maine

A little farther up the road in Warren, Maine, was a fruit stand where we were hoping to find blueberries and peaches. No blueberries were found, but small plums, peaches, and red pears were on hand and soon found their way into our stomachs. I should also fess up at this point that we ended up joining the freeway for 37 miles as it promised to save us an hour compared to the slower roads through dozens of small towns, and importantly, it would help us reach our hotel in time to check in, albeit just in the nick of time.

Tenants Harbor, Maine

Sure, we could have stayed on the freeway longer than 37 miles, but we had designs to make our way out to Sprucehead Island; more details about that adventure will be coming up. Meanwhile, we were tracing the coast as best we could and wasting any of the time we saved to reach Port Clyde.

Tenants Harbor, Maine

This photo, the one above and the three below were all taken in the Tenants Harbor area. Maybe we should have ended the road trip part of our vacation right here and set up here in town for the next weeks.

Tenants Harbor, Maine

The Oregon Coast might be our main happy place, but the Maine Coast is running a close second after we reach these more remote sections and remember what endeared us to this region 24 years ago.

Shore rocks at Tenants Harbor, Maine

These rocks at the shoreline at Marshall Point are likely from the Appalachian Orogeny and consist of schist, gneiss, and quartzite, all dating back to about 500 million years ago.

Seagrass at Tenants Harbor, Maine

While its name is Common Rockweed, it is spectacular in my view.

Marshall Point Lighthouse in St. George, Maine

The Marshall Point Lighthouse in Port Clyde was the reason for our detour and the therapy for enduring those 37 miles on the freeway.

Marshall Point Lighthouse in St. George, Maine

The volunteers at the lighthouse were great. Volunteers usually are when you consider that they offer their time for free and must deal with hangry tourists in a hurry to add things to a bucket list. One particular lady from the Ithaca, New York, area who lived in North Carolina a good long time and loved it before moving to Maine in retirement spoke with us about everything under the sun while still asking everyone who passed by to sign the guest register. Because of the many volunteers at our poorly funded monuments, cities and states can afford to keep these places open.

Bay view from Port Clyde, Maine

If this kind of view looks appealing to you, too, there are rooms to rent in the Port Clyde area. We’d highly recommend a visit, especially after our next stop.

McLoons Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island, Maine

We’ve reached Sprucehead Island.

McLoons Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island, Maine

More than 60 miles away from the nearest freeway or only about 10 miles south of Highway 1, you’ll find McLoons Lobster Shack. You should go, you must go; it’s pricey, but it’s amazing.

Caroline Wise at McLoons Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island, Maine

We knew we’d ordered too much food, but when would we get a second visit? Caroline ordered the normal lobster roll, and I went for the Lobster Rolls Royce with twice the meat. We ordered some of their grilled clams, which might have been the best we’d ever had, enhanced by the most amazing herb, garlic, and butter sauce. The perfectly grilled, buttered bread that wraps the lobster also has a layer of mayo spread on its inner surface; as this is the traditional Maine way of serving a lobster roll, we went hybrid style with sides of drawn butter to slather over the lobster for that extra indulgence. Magnificent, but that perfection comes with a high price, and today, that was $106 for lunch, though it also included the world’s biggest whoopie pie, a New England favorite from the Pennsylvania Amish, which Caroline opted for.

McLoons Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island, Maine

The location on Sprucehead Island for this lobster shack couldn’t have been chosen any better. From every angle, every seat, and where we parked our car among the hundreds of people who reached this location before we did, everything is beautiful and the perfect setting for amplifying the senses to enjoy a big fat, luscious, and yummy lobster roll. Seriously, it was that GREAT!

View from Owls Head Lighthouse in Owls Head, Maine

Sometimes, the name of a place is enough to entice Caroline to investigate further, and so it was with Owls Head that we’d delay our return to Highway 1, though there was one special reason beyond the name that drew her attention.

Owls Head Lighthouse in Owls Head, Maine

The Owls Head Lighthouse. No time for a visit to a museum or gift store though; we needed to push on.

Penobscot Narrows Bridge in Stockton Springs, Maine

Approaching Stockton Springs, we spotted a rare place to safely pull over to get a good look at the Penobscot Narrows Bridge that neither of us could remember from previous visits to the area. This is one of those times when the blog truly comes in handy: our first road trip down this stretch of Highway 1 in Maine was in November when the Waldo–Hancock Bridge from 1931 still stood here. Our second visit to the area saw us crossing this new cable-stayed bridge, which had opened six months before. Upon checking that old blog post, I read this confirmation of our crossing and wondered why we didn’t include a photo. I guess I didn’t feel the quality was up to standard, but upon checking our photo archive, I saw one almost acceptable photo; more importantly, it shows the old and the new bridge still standing side-by-side. That historical relevance was enough for me to update that post this morning.

Penobscot Narrows Bridge in Stockton Springs, Maine

Pressed for time, there was no chance we’d be visiting the highest bridge observatory that’s part of one of the bridge towers. Maybe on a future visit, we can ride the elevator up. Until then, we can work at forgetting about this sight so it’s new again after some more years pass.

Tracy's Seafood in Sullivan, Maine

By the narrative so far, one might think we just ate lunch, but the truth was that we needed to stop the frequent pullovers for photos and work at getting up the road. Knowing how small Lubec is, we were aware that getting dinner there was increasingly unlikely, and still basking in the glow of our lobster rolls, we felt a second lobster roll would perfectly punctuate the indulgence of our coastal Maine drive. Tracy’s Seafood in Sullivan, Maine, served our needs, and as you can see from their sign, these were significantly cheaper than the lobster rolls had for lunch.

Sunset in Lubec, Maine

Two hours later and shortly before 8:00, we pulled into Lubec, Maine, for our stay at the Inn on the Wharf. With their day almost done, especially now that their last guests were getting checked in, the young women and I spent about 15 minutes talking about the great opportunity they’d just experienced in Maine. One was from Montenegro, one from Columbia, and the other from Bulgaria. All were college students back home and were 72 hours from finishing their obligations of fulfilling the work that brought them over for the summer.

New England – A Patchwork

Sunrise in Shaftsbury, Vermont

I can’t say I’m very happy with yesterday’s perfunctory blog post. Sure, it covered that we went from A to B, ending up in C, but I think this is where, after 12 days on the road, my writing is growing sloppy. Things like the abundance of love traveling with us, the hand holding, snuggling, and non-stop smiles are not being written about. The constant state of wow and awareness of our crazy privilege is never far from mind. Our days are jam-packed from 5:30 in the morning when we wake up to 10:30 at night when we finally get to sleep, but this is how we want to spend our time, knowing that we are taking advantage of that precious commodity we’ve been allocated. Even as I write this because it’s nagging me how sloppy I feel yesterday’s post was, there’s a mist on the meadow across the street from our lodging, the sun has peeked over the horizon, and we should be out already exploring Kennebunkport while it’s still quiet and the mass of tourists we saw there last night haven’t emerged from their cocoons yet. Finding quality headspace time when the senses are working overtime is not always easy, but we know that immersion, demands, and outcomes have always proved worthwhile.

Robert Frost home in South Shaftsbury, Vermont

It is too early to visit the Robert Frost Stone House and Museum, not that I’m in any way certain we’d have dipped in if it had been open as experience suggests that we’d be viewing the inside of a house, some interpretive plaques, and a donation box near the door. While he was an important American prize-winning poet, I’ve not paid attention to his work since I was a kid.

Silk Road Covered Bridge in Bennington, Vermont

I have to say that I don’t always understand the romanticized perception of covered bridges other than the rarity of their existence and maybe what they harken back to. I suppose in our collective mind’s eye, we see the horse-drawn carriage on an idyllic winter day pulling a bucolic family over the bridge, or maybe it’s spring heading into summer, and we believe we remember the young couple going on a date, the horse galloping along the country road among the farms, but aren’t these likely reflections of our literature and more probably movie manufactured images? Of course, there’s no denying that there’s an architectural element of interest, but I have to wonder out loud how much of this is cultural conditioning. I don’t want to come off as sounding cynical, and I do love seeing the deep red contrasting colors set against the environment. I also could see them having an economic benefit from the tourists seeking them out, but I also have to think about the cost of maintenance at a time when general road conditions are not always ideal. Many, far too many, of the houses we are driving by have fallen into a state akin to hovels and yet are still occupied while Dollar Stores proliferate, serving those in poverty.

Battle Monument in Bennington, Vermont

This is the tallest building in Vermont, 306 feet high (93 meters), and it is the Battle Monument in Bennington. It commemorates the Battle of Bennington, fought in 1777 during the Revolutionary War. Had we been here after 10:00, we could have taken an elevator to a viewing point somewhere on high, but not today; we are too early.

The Big Pont on the Molly Stark Scenic Byway in Bennington, Vermont

Stopping to capture a deeper look into nature’s beauty is a driving force behind these road trips. Somehow, city and state agencies don’t consider where visitors might want to pull over to take in the sights; then again, they never took into account that bicyclists might want to share the road, and so things are too often designed for the convenience of commerce. In an evolving economy where travel, remote work, and adventures increasingly capture large parts of daily life, I don’t believe the United States is moving in a direction to cater to those needs. As we’ve been traveling over the breadth of this country, we’ve wanted nothing more than to extoll the vibrant beauty and great opportunity to witness America, but that’s not always been made as convenient as we’d wish. We need more pullouts so we’re not pulling over to the side of the road with our hazard lights flashing because we can’t fully leave the asphalt.

Caroline Wise at Hogback Mountain Country Store in Marlboro, Vermont

At the Hogback Mountain Country Store in Marlboro, Vermont, Caroline finally found the maple soft-serve her friend Christine had recommended. We were also able to grab a bottle of “very dark” maple syrup at this store on top of Hogback Mountain.

View from Hogback Mountain in Marlboro, Vermont

This viewpoint from the shop offers a line of sight looking out over Vermont into New Hampshire and Massachusetts.

Creamery Covered Bridge in Brattleboro, Vermont

This is the Creamery Covered Bridge in Brattleboro, while the one further above was the Silk Road Covered Bridge in Bennington, both in Vermont.

Brattleboro, Vermont

We are well aware that we are giving short shrift to the towns and villages we are passing through, but these places easily become timesinks when trying to find the best angles to capture the essence and charm of the place. Instead of indulging the 20 minutes or more when we should be strolling the streets of these places, such as here in Brattleboro, we typically opt to keep moving while entertaining the idea that maybe someday we’ll return to spend quality time.

Brattleboro, Vermont

The old Stone Church, also in Brattleboro, no longer functions as a church.

Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

Instead, we traveled on a short detour to Putney, Vermont, where we found the church of Green Mountain Spinnery. I’ll explain: this ancient machine is an old-fashioned wool spinning contraption used as just one part of turning raw wool into yarn. If you are a fiber arts enthusiast, this is a nerd-nirvana kind of place.

Caroline Wise with Sally and Marley at Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

Our tour guide to this fiber mill, Sally, on the left, was joined by Marley, on the right, who has been mastering the craft of how all of this works.

Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

I don’t believe this facility has a modern piece of equipment within its walls. Even the spinner that rings extra water from the freshly washed wool that arrives with oodles of lanolin is from the very early 20th century, somewhere around 1906, if my memory serves me right. Pictured above is one of the carders.

Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

Even nearly empty bobbins have a sense of art to them; I think I could have spent another hour on their factory floor exploring the nooks and crannies.

Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

Hanging skeins of yarn ready to go to market or be returned to the person who contracted their services.

Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

Fully loaded bobbins with plied yarns, ready to be wound on skeins.

Caroline Wise at Green Mountain Spinnery in Putney, Vermont

With arms full of ten skeins of yarn, eight for Caroline for a vest she’s considering, and two for me and what will likely become a beanie. The ladies at Green Mountain Spinnery were incredibly gracious and super busy. While in the shop, another six people showed up, all wanting tours. The processes and history being kept alive here are increasingly rare, and we are truly grateful that we were allowed a glimpse into it all.

Connecticut River on the New Hampshire State Line in Brattleboro, Vermont

Crossing the Connecticut River, we are about to enter New Hampshire, and I need to find a healthy outlet for the tensions crawling up my butt, along with these drivers in New England who seem to believe that tail-gating is the proper way to encourage me to GTFO of their way. It is said that Zonies (those of us from Arizona) are distant, the Californians are flakes, and New Yorkers are plain rude, but these Vermonters and New Hampshirians are increasingly appearing to be entitled assholes. Our encounters with some, but not all, locals suggest they have social issues beyond the populations of almost every other state we’ve ever visited.

Rusty bridge between Brattleboro, Vermont and New Hampshire

This is not the bridge we crossed into New Hampshire; the new one parallels the old rusty hulk of an artifact we are walking out on.

Stone Arch Bridge in Stoddard, New Hampshire

While a footpath now, the Stone Arch Bridge appears to be just one of five here near Stoddard, New Hampshire.

Mushroom at the Stone Arch Bridge in Stoddard, New Hampshire

First mushroom in the wild I’ve seen in thousands of miles, growing out of moss, to boot. It’s a scene right out of Oregon.

North branch of the Contoocook River in Antrim, New Hampshire

The north branch of the Contoocook River in Antrim, New Hampshire, and, again, if I’m not mistaken, this river is the one that flows under the Stone Arch Bridge.

The President Franklin Pierce Homestead in Hillsborough, New Hampshire

A president you’ve likely never heard of, Franklin Pierce, the 14th president of the United States, lived on this homestead a long time ago.

Kat's Corner in Hillsborough, New Hampshire

Stopped for lunch at Kat’s Corner, just down the road from the president’s place. Kat was still there, though it was well after 2:00 when the kitchen usually closes, but she was gracious enough to feed us. We opted for the ‘Strami Burgers, ‘ which seemed unique to the area, and while she got to cooking, we could chat with her from the countertop where we were sitting. Kat is ready to retire; she’s battle-scarred from doing business in a place with too many customers demanding the kind of privilege that’s created war stories and has damaged her experience of owning this place. It’s a tragedy that after the corner shop and cafe finally change hands, as it’s already been sold, she leaves this business she’s loved for so long with memories tainted by hostility. Lunch was great, truly homemade fare for those who appreciate the love people bring to their business.

Concord, New Hampshire

Concord, New Hampshire, is a wonderfully vibrant-looking place that appears to have saved its small main street businesses. Now, if only they could take a page from Portland, Oregon, and learn something about civility. I don’t mean to imply that Portland doesn’t have its problems, some of them huge, but it is a friendly city; maybe that’s why it’s so scuffed, and this place looks like Singapore, where you are going to jail for spitting out a piece of gum.

State Capitol building in Concord, New Hampshire

This is the New Hampshire State House; some would call it their State Capitol Building, but that would be wrong here. Try it, and you’ll soon find yourself behind the glare of wicked stares and a proper brow lashing.

Side of the road in Rochester, New Hampshire

At least there are dirt roads where we could find a modicum of tranquility away from the angry, aggressive drivers and busybodies.

Rochester Reservoir in Rochester, New Hampshire

Our roadside stop was at the Rochester Reservoir, which had plenty of do-not-trespass signs, but do they really mean no photographers, or does the warning apply to would-be picnickers and the homeless who might want to bathe in these waters?

Caroline Wise and John Wise on a Maine State Line with New Hampshire

We’ve reached Maine but still have a good bit of driving before reaching our destination. This is our third visit to this state.

Looking to the sea in Kennebunk, Maine

We’ve reached the wealthy enclave of Kennebunk, which is not where we are staying. We are up the street in Kennebunkport, though that is also where the Bush family, as in the two presidents, have their retreat at Walker Point. Speaking of the Bushs, we were pulling into town and stopped at a light when a couple of women started waving to some cars, as in three identical black SUVs driven by what were obviously Secret Service agents; their passengers could have only been former President George W. Bush and his wife Laura, as nobody else in Kennebunkport this evening could possibly also be deserving of a Secret Service escort.

Sunset in Kennebunkport, Maine

It costs $25 to park at the beach. It’s a day pass, but what if you only stop for a few minutes to grab a few photos? You’d better hope that the car that scans license plates to ensure enforcement doesn’t roll by yours while you dart out to the seashore. The week pass is $103. Guess who won’t be visiting any beaches in Kennebunkport during their stay?

Time To Go

Maine License Plate "VEGGIES"

On May 12, 2007, while driving south on the Atlantic Highway between Belfast and Camden, Maine, we found this license plate. For some reason, we dragged it back to Arizona and for the past 11 years, it has sat on a bookshelf gathering dust. Today it is finally heading to the landfill, but it couldn’t have traveled 2,830 miles west and hung out for over 10 years without it being put to use for something so here it is going up on my blog. Maybe someday someone will reach out and let us know that we found their license plate way back when.