Off To Los Angeles

Yoma Myanmar-Thai Restaurant on 713 E. Garvey Ave Monterey Park, California

Up early in Phoenix, Arizona, for a 380-mile drive to Yoma Myanmar-Thai Restaurant in Monterey Park, California. Our first stop in California was just across the street at Shwe Minthamee, where we picked up some desperately needed Burmese ingredients for making salads that we fell in love with back when Little Rangoon was open in Scottsdale. Now well stocked, it was time for lunch. First up, we split a Lahpet Thoke. Laphet is the most famous salad ingredient in Burma (now Myanmar); it is pickled (fermented) green tea leaves. When these tea leaves are mixed with shredded cabbage, tomato, egg, and a mix of crunchy bits – including peanuts, roasted garlic, sesame seeds, and roasted yellow peas, we have the perfect salad – in our book. We had a couple of other items, but it was the salad that made our drive worthwhile.

For dessert, we visited Beard Papa’s, obviously very popular with L.A.’s Asian population. Beard Papa’s serves up “Fresh’N Natural Cream Puffs,” claimed to be the world’s best.

Shopping in Little Tokyo - downtown Los Angeles, California

Next stop was Little Tokyo in downtown Los Angeles. This was our first goofing-off mini-vacation this year, as I had to cancel any pleasure trips in order to focus on writing my book. The first shop, and really the only stop we were interested in, was the bookstore upstairs in this photo. It is called Kinokuniya, and rarely do we leave this place without spending a quick $100.

Shopping in Little Tokyo - downtown Los Angeles, California

Caroline spent a good hour looking through fibercraft books in Japanese – it is a Japanese bookstore, after all. Afterward, we took our time to walk around Little Tokyo.

Looking at the south-eastern edge of Little Tokyo in downtown Los Angeles, California

Coming out of Phoenix with our drab, conformist, and generic urban areas, it is always nice to visit a vibrant city center. We are looking at one of the corners of Little Tokyo; also in front of us is the L.A. City Hall in the distant background. A mile north is Chinatown, and adjacent to that is the Old Barrio of L.A. – where Los Angeles got its start. A few miles west is Korea Town, Little Saigon is over in Orange County, Little India is in Artesia, and Thai Town is over near Hollywood. Throughout the greater Los Angeles area, funky enclaves of culture thrive and give Caroline and me wonderful choices to choose from for entertainment and food compared to strip malls and drug stores on every corner out in the desert we live in. If you are wondering why I can complain about Phoenix while extolling L.A., we would live here in the City of Angels, except the cost of living would probably keep us as economic slaves to trying to maintain a small apartment.

Inside our tiny room at the Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

Time to head west and check into our motel, one of our favorite motels anywhere – The Wilshire Motel. This tiny spot on Wilshire Boulevard on the way to Santa Monica is a cluster of cozy and clean bungalows just a few miles from the beach. The lady who operates the Wilshire always remembers us, even if it has been a couple of years between visits, although I don’t think we’ve ever gone that long between returns.

Caroline Wise walking on the beach in Marina Del Rey, California

With our lodging taken care of, we raced to the ocean and headed south through Venice to Marina Del Rey for a sunset walk on the beach. It was almost too late when we arrived as the sun had just dipped below the horizon, but we still had a short while to walk in the water and enjoy the late-day golden glow of the setting sun.

Ramenya on W. Olympic Blvd in Los Angeles, CA

Heading back towards our motel and about a mile roughly east is another Los Angeles favorite – Ramenya. Since our first visit when the line was outside the door, this small ramen shop has since gotten some serious competition, but we are still loyal and enjoy the variety of ramen on offer.

A bowl of steaming hot seaweed and tofu ramen from Ramenya on W. Olympic Blvd in Los Angeles, CA

This somewhat unappetizing view (I will not claim to be an exceptional or even mediocre food photographer) is a bowl of seaweed and tofu ramen. I opted for the spicy curry ramen. This ended our perfect day in Los Angeles after waking up at 5:00 in the morning over in Phoenix. It’s amazing what one can do with a little effort to get out and have some fun.

Visiting Another World

Inside the warehouse of India Imports in Los Angeles, California

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010, shortly after 6:00 a.m. I get in the driver’s seat of Sonal’s van for the drive to Los Angeles, California. The reason for our short two-day trip was to visit the suppliers that keep her store stocked with Indian and British goods. Thanks to the one-hour time zone difference between Arizona and California, we arrived at the first supplier before 11:00 am. Nirav is near the downtown L.A. area, and Sonal is here to say hello, order Ready to Eat items and see what’s new. Next up is India Imports, who, we learn, are also handling Deep Frozen Foods. Sonal usually orders Deep Foods from New Jersey, this offers the opportunity to save a little on shipping – if this distributor can consistently have what she needs in inventory.

Little India Market Place in Artesia, California

South on the 110 freeway, we go to Gardena, home of Kostas International, to pick up flour. Not just any flour, though; most Hindus have their favorite brand of flour, or Atta, as it is known. We were picking up 320 pounds of Sujata Atta, a whole wheat flour popular for making chapati and roti. By now, we are starving; it is just past 2:30 pm as we hop back on the 110 south to the 91 freeway east, exiting Pioneer Blvd. in Artesia to visit Little India for something to eat. Lunch is a couple of Indo-Chinese dishes fixed for us by the owner of Mumbai Ki Galliyon Se. In the same plaza, we also visit Ajay at Little India Market Place. Sonal and I met Ajay when he was working for Nirav some years ago he now owns and operates this small grocery with a beautiful display of garlands as you walk in.

Inside the warehouse of House of Spice in Cerritos, California

House of Spice – the granddaddy of and apparent current giant in the Indian food distribution arena was the last business stop of the day. While I enjoy the hospitality of all the business owners who invite me in to look into their operations, it is definitely House of Spice that is the most welcoming, open, and helpful in explaining the current trends and situations regarding the logistics and market conditions that surround the Indian grocery distribution world as it pertains to the western United States. I would like to share with you what I learned, but I suppose that for those of you with no interest in the mechanics of this industry, it would be boring. It’s nearly dark as we wrap up our visit while the workers at House of Spice rush to empty a container of food that arrived the day before from India.

Our hotel is the Rodeway Inn on Artesia Blvd – they have four Indian channels available on the TV in the room. We check-in, and just as quickly as we drop our bags, we get back in the van and head back to Pioneer Blvd. At Sukhadia Sweets, Sonal buys something special for her and her girls, and I bought some coconut and cardamom burfi for Caroline.

Ziba Music and Gifts in Artesia, California

Ziba Music & Gift was still where they have always been, it was encouraging to see them still in business after so many other music resellers have gone out of business. Ziba sells music, movies, and Indian musical instruments. The music on offer ranges from bhangra to Bollywood and Carnatic to lounge. I was here to pick up a copy of the soundtrack to Veer Zaara; after listening to it for so many years, it was time to support the industry and buy a copy.

Snack display at Ras Raj in Artesia, California

Dinner was at Ras Raj. I had the Manchurian Sizzler, and Sonal went for the Chole Bhatura – mine was better, although that is only my perspective. As we waited for our order, half a dozen other dishes pictured on the walls inspired me to want each of them. Being in Little India, it is difficult to pass up dessert, especially when falooda is on offer, so I didn’t pass on falooda – yum.

Inside the Naz8 theater in Artesia, California about to watch "3 Idiots" starring Amir Khan

The last stop of the day, of what by now was becoming a very long day – NAZ8. What is a NAZ8? It is a movie theater a few miles away from Little India that specializes in movies from Bollywood. We were here to watch 3 Idiots starring Amir Khan. While older Hindus would argue that the golden age of Bollywood was in the 50s and 60s, for Caroline and me, it began in the mid-90s and ended in 2009. 3 Idiots was a good film, with great laughs and great acting, even from Kareena Kapoor. The problem is for me that Bollywood is going the way of Hollywood, as in American Pie kind of humor. Not that the Masala film has gotten to that level yet, but the groundwork is being laid. For the first time in a Bollywood movie I have seen, men are seen from behind relieving themselves at the urinal while other men are filmed from overhead sitting on the toilet – all of this as part of one of the musical numbers. If you don’t know Bollywood, then you don’t know how revolutionary this is. All the same, three hours later, we are leaving the theater, and I’m thinking 3 Idiots was pretty good.

Watching Hindu television at the Rodeway Inn and Motel in Artesia, California

Without an alarm or wake-up call, I’m up early, turn on the TV, and check the Indian stations. Cricket, cricket, soap opera, and an old movie. I decided against the absurd chase scenes in this movie not featuring an actor I can recognize and tune in to the news about cricket. I don’t particularly like cricket, or sports for that matter, but the difference of it all and the great lettering in the onscreen graphics had me entranced for a short time. Starbucks called me from across the street, and soon, I was replenishing my caffeine stores.

Spices on display at Rani Foods in Los Angeles, California

Ajay over at Little India Market Place told us that Rani Foods wasn’t far away, so they were our first stop of the day. Another good place to find out more interesting facts regarding FDA involvement with food suppliers in India, embargos against particular products, who is really behind some of the popular brands Indians insist are the best, and how the Indian food industry is changing.

A new container of British foods unpacked and ready to be shelved at Piccadilly Imports in Los Angeles, California

At Piccadilly Imports, we spend a good part of the day with Emma and Ben, learning why certain British foods are, at times, impossible to find in the American market. Be warned, lovers of Smarties: the FDA has banned Smarties in the U.S. until the blue Smarties are removed, as the food coloring is not approved for the American market. Later Ben shows me a cherry red 1961 Porsche parked in the warehouse, which he has restored. It seems that the food industry is about to take the backseat as he looks to expand his time into more ‘me’ time and maybe less career time. Emma takes her time to walk around the shelves while we slowly shop and check out some products we knew nothing of, such as the case of award-winning Scottish Haggis made in America that will now be on the shelves of Indo Euro Foods in Phoenix, Arizona.

Sugar cane and various vegetables packed and ready for shipment from Samra Produce in Los Angeles, California

The last distributor to visit is on the edge of the downtown Los Angeles area, Samra Produce. Samra specializes in Indian and Oriental vegetables. If you are in need of guvar, tindoora, bitter melon, Thai chilies, Indian eggplant, or sin qua, Samra likely has it – as long as it’s in season. With the vegetables loaded into the van, we are once again heading back to Little India.

Street signs in Little India located in Artesia, California

Lunch was at Tangy Tomato on Pioneer Blvd. We had the buffet, and while I would have enjoyed the foods being warmer than they were, they were well-spiced, flavorful, and all-around pretty good. The Sag Paneer was my favorite, as was the hot fresh garlic naan. With stomachs full, we head back over to House of Spice to pick up a few items they packed up for us; the van is almost full. Around the corner, we meet up with the girls of Nanak Foods as Sonal has a client with an immediate need for paneer who cannot wait for her next shipment. It is now getting late; there is no way to avoid the afternoon rush hour as millions clog the freeways on their way home. It takes us almost two hours to finally get through the 50 miles of traffic jam and see a break on the road that allows us to start driving home faster than 25 miles per hour. It’s midnight when we get back to Phoenix.

Real Purpose

Early morning in Santa Monica, California

The real purpose of this weekend trip to Los Angeles was not to go to Disneyland or see Toy Story; it is related to the reason we are here on a Monday morning, and considering we are rarely in L.A. outside a Friday night through Sunday, it must be important.

Caroline Wise in Santa Monica, California

Trust me, it wasn’t just so we could have breakfast like a couple of swingers at Swingers Diner.

Early morning in Santa Monica, California

Nor was it to gaze at the full moon.

Hollywood, California

Caroline had an appointment with the German Consulate to get fingerprinted so she could get a new passport. Of course, this being a government office, it is only open Monday through Friday. After an uneventful, pleasant, even visit with a German official for the first time in over 15 years, we had some time left before having to return to Phoenix. This was our view from the waiting room at the German Consulate.

Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary in Los Angeles, California

And with that, we pointed the car back west on Wilshire Blvd not quite ready to leave Los Angeles, and so we paid a visit to the Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary. This is the famous resting spot where Marylin Monroe is entombed.

Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary in Los Angeles, California

Talk about a love/hate relationship. I did not like Ray Conniff, I’m not old enough, but that he’d have this nod to Somewhere My Love on his gravestone is kind of peculiar as the music to that song was Lara’s Theme (Doctor Zhivago)  from Maurice Jarre (Composer for Lawrence of Arabia – a favorite of ours) who passed away earlier this year, father of Jean-Michel Jarre who I did grow up really liking so I guess this creates some mixed feelings.

Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary in Los Angeles, California

On the other hand, here’s Dean Martin, who I can’t listen to today, but when I was a kid, I loved every Martin & Lewis film I could watch as the chemistry between Jerry Lewis and this guy was perfect to me when I was ten years old. I suppose I can also admit to enjoying his musical schtick with this suave character who always seemed a bit drunk and too cool. But if I ever have to hear That’s Amore again, it will be too soon.

Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary in Los Angeles, California

And then there are all these other famous dead people from my childhood, including Eddie Albert of Green Acres fame, Jack Lemmon and Walter Matthau, Carroll O’Connor from All in the Family, Farrah Fawcett, Billy Wilder, Natalie Wood, and Bob Crane of Hogan’s Heroes who was murdered in Scottsdale, Arizona. Don Knotts, Mel Torme, Heather O’Rourke, Peggy Lee, Merv Griffin, and Truman Capote are all laid to rest here too.

Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary in Los Angeles, California

Our favorite headstones were from Merv Griffin, which read, “I will not be right back after this message,” and Jack Lemmon’s, which simply reads, “Jack Lemmon in.”

Pierce Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park & Mortuary in Los Angeles, California

And with that, it was time to return to Phoenix, Arizona, before we grew too comfortable here.

Toy Story in 3D

Hollywood Farmers Market, California

We had time to burn, but not so much time we could revisit Disneyland this morning, so instead, we went to the next best thing, a farmer’s market. Not just any market either, but the zoo that is the Hollywood Farmer’s Market. The one where Scientology is always in the background, where the market band could be pop stars next year, or you could get mugged by a crazed former child actor.

Hollywood Farmers Market, California

As where we used to come here relatively often to stock up on fresh veggies but now rely on Tonopah Rob for those luxuries, we were here for reconnaissance on his behalf, allowing him to have a second-hand look at what our California neighbors are offered and what they pay.

Oki Dog in Los Angeles, California

Yep, Oki Dog for the lunchtime win with a pastrami burrito that KILLS.

El Capitan Theater in Hollywood, California

After sixteen hours in Disneyland, what could be more fun than going to El Capitan Theatre in Hollywood to see Toy Story and Toy Story 2 in 3D with special live guest appearances by Jessie, Woody, and Buzz Lightyear – exactly, we couldn’t think of anything else either, and so that’s precisely what we did.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at El Capitan Theater in Hollywood, California

We had ordered our tickets weeks before our little weekend trip to Los Angeles and scored 7th-row center reserved seating. What we didn’t know was that our tickets came with free drinks, a souvenir container of popcorn with a free refill, and during intermission, they were giving us a sliced apple snack.

Organist at El Capitan Theater in Hollywood, California

Before the screen went up, we were treated to some live Wurlitzer organ music. This historic instrument, built in the 1920s, was originally installed in 1929 at the San Francisco Fox Theatre. Today, the organ rises from below the stage level at the El Capitan and uses over 2,500 pipes installed on each side of the theatre.

Live presentation at showing of Toy Story at El Capitan Theater in Hollywood, California

After our 20-minute concert, the organ disappeared, and the crowd went wild when Jessie, Woody, and Buzz took the stage. Who knew this ensemble could dance so well? We spent the rest of the afternoon watching Toy Story and Toy Story 2 in 3D.

Bee Gees Hollywood Walk of Fame in California

To finish off the day, we made a pilgrimage to the Bee Gees’ star on Hollywood Blvd. We know how to live large!

Surfing

Dolphins surfing the waves south of Santa Barbara, California

Driving south out of Santa Barbara, I told Caroline to put down what she was doing and look out the window as, with only 20 minutes of ocean view out of the 8 hours of driving back to Arizona, she needed to be on the lookout for dolphins and whales. There must have been a whisper in my ear because, within minutes, we were pulling over to watch more than half a dozen dolphins swimming along the shoreline and surfing the waves. We did not fare as well in the whale-watching department but were thrilled to watch the dolphins and even the sea lion that showed up.

South of Santa Barbara on Highway 101

Then it was back on the road for a beautiful spring drive out of the greenery of Southern California and all the ugly traffic, but that’s the way it is over here.

California Desert off Interstate 10

Into the California desert as we pass through the Palm Springs area over to Blythe.

Arizona sunset on the 10 freeway

Back in Arizona, we catch a glimmer of the sunset before heading east once again into the darkness.

Doing Fine

Woody Burns at 84 years old in Santa Barbara, California

Having spent three months helping my uncle Woody Burns get back on his feet after a fall that broke his hip, I couldn’t be sure how we’d find him this weekend after our 5-month absence. In fact, he is doing better than ever. Prior to his hip-breaking fall, my uncle had been on a heavy dose of pain medication for a back injury that ultimately required extensive surgery, creating more pain than it alleviated. While he now uses a walker for getting around, he is more sure-footed today than I had seen him in the previous years, which in part I attribute to being off the pain meds. The intervening five months were too long a break in our otherwise regular visits that my great aunt and uncle had become accustomed to expecting every 60 to 90 days – we’ll return with my mother-in-law in tow in early June.