L.A. Conservancy Tour

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

In the march forward through the long-neglected blog landscape, alas, yet another few days discovered gathering digital dust on the hard drive of a forgotten time. Here I am now in the future, the year 2023, when, with forensic tools, I uncover these images with great clarity, but the exact details of what we are doing these days, aside from the obvious, will remain buried in brains, not prone to giving up secrets. To state the easily apparent, we stayed at the good ole Wilshire Motel which was often our go-to place for a weekend in L.A.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Taking ourselves to the Grand Central Market in Downtown L.A. was out of the ordinary but made sense, considering we are right next door to a meeting point that has everything to do with the primary reason for this visit to Southern California.

Los Angeles, California

There’s something in common with more than a few of these old posts; it typically takes me some time to remember that I might have the itinerary and that it could have details that would help add to the story. Sure enough, I discovered something we’ll do here at the end of the day that I had no photos for and would have consequently missed; I’ll share it after the last photo.

Million Dollar Theater in Los Angeles, California

This is the Million Dollar Theater on Broadway, where we are meeting our tour guide from the L.A. Conservancy for the Broadway Historic Theatre and Commercial District Walking Tour. After learning about some of the history of Sid Grauman’s Million Dollar Theater and the current state of the theater that we couldn’t visit, we moved on to the next location.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

The famous Bradbury Building that I’ve likely written about on more than one occasion.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

Does Blade Runner come to mind?

Caroline Wise at the Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

Hello Caroline…

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

As I considered what to write here and started using image search to identify a few facades I couldn’t figure out, I thought about going into some history, but this might not be the best use of my time. Though I’d learn a lot, and Caroline too would capture some history we didn’t retain from our original tour, this post will likely remain unseen by anyone as it’s inserted into its holding place carrying a date nearly a dozen years old. Who, after all, looks at such dated posts?

Los Angeles, California

What I can offer is that we’ve enjoyed the various tours we’ve taken from the L.A. Conservancy and can only hope they remain well-funded and able to continue offering their events and tours for years to come.

Roxie Theater in Downtown Los Angeles, California

Permanence is not part of the American vocabulary if financial utility can move to a newer, shinier location. Once the exodus begins to cheaper digs, decay sets in, and the value of what was once grand is allowed to fall into nothing.

Inside the old Roxie Theater in Downtown Los Angeles, California

Lucky us, the current tenant of the space formerly known as Roxie Theater allowed us inside to see for ourselves that it now serves as a warehouse but still has the décor and movie screen present.

Paramount Sign in Los Angeles, California

Prior to the move to Hollywood, many of the studios were located right here in the Downtown Los Angeles core. Fading for decades is the old logo of Paramount Pictures on the side of this building.

Sidewalk at the Pantages Theater in Los Angeles, California

This terrazzo sidewalk used to be part of the Pantages Theater.

Los Angeles, California

Detail of the Beaux Arts and Spanish Baroque style Broadway-Spring Arcade Building.

Los Angeles Theater in Los Angeles, California

The Los Angeles Theater, built in 1931, was considered to be the most lavish of Broadway’s great movie palaces. Reading about all these old theaters, I got curious about the oldest operating theater in the U.S., it turns out to be in Washington, Iowa. The State Theater has been open since 1897 and is still showing movies as of 2023.

Palace Theater in Los Angeles, California

Growing up in the Los Angeles area and a frequent visitor of the downtown area, I wasn’t able to really consider the history of what I was seeing as I was simply overwhelmed by the sense of scale and decay of the city I was walking through. Learning that the Palace Theater was originally the Orpheum and was built in 1911 for vaudeville acts, not the movies, comes as a surprise, as is the fact that the building was loosely based upon a Renaissance-age Florentine palazzo. On its stage, the likes of Harry Houdini, Will Rogers, Fred Astaire, and Rita Hayworth have performed.

Los Angeles, California

Pardon the wonky bending in my photo of the State Theater building, but it was created from three different images stacked one upon the other in a panorama, as I couldn’t capture it correctly with the lens I was using.

From a terrific website by Mike Hume / Historic Theatre Photos with the copyright held by him, he wrote of the State Theater:

In 1929, a Bakersfield act called The Gumm Sisters played at the State, featuring a lead singer who earned the nickname “Leather Lungs” for her ability to be heard clearly at the rear of the 125-deep auditorium. As the Great Depression took hold and vaudeville declined (vaudeville ceased at the State in the mid-1930s), the Gumm Sisters moved to Culver City to appear in experimental Technicolor musicals, and “Leather Lungs” changed her name to Judy Garland.

Old Warner Bros. Building in Los Angeles, California

Behind the diamond is an old Warner Bros. logo, and while this was originally a Pantages Theater in 1920, by 1929, it became the home of Warner Bros.

Tower Theater in Los Angeles, California

Tower Theater was once one of the narrowest theaters built; today, the ground floor is an Apple Store.

Rialto Theater in Los Angeles, California

To the casual visitor, I wonder how many of them miss these old marquees?

Orpheum Theater in Los Angeles, California

A bit more background on the Orpheum. These theaters were part of something called the Orpheum Circuit,  a chain of vaudeville and movie theaters. As vaudeville was winding down, Orpheum merged into another company, becoming Radio-Keith-Orpheum (RKO) Pictures. RKO gave us such films as King Kong, Citizen Kane, It’s a Wonderful Life, and Notorious. Howard Hughes took over operations in 1948 before selling shortly ahead of its collapse.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Prior to this day, Caroline nor I had ever eaten Salvadoran food so the idea of having a lunch of pupusas at a Pupuseria sounded great to us. As of this writing in 2023, Sarita’s here at the Grand Central Market is still open.

Los Angeles, California

Seeing we’re already parked here downtown, why not spend a little more time and visit the Central Library? During the late 1970s, the Los Angeles Central Library was one of my favorite places to hang out and browse its amazing collection of old books. Little did I know back then that the city had ideas of demolishing this building, and it was that idea that gave rise to the L.A. Conservancy in 1978.

Los Angeles, California

This Globe Chandelier featuring the 48 states that existed when it was built in 1926 for the rotunda of the central library survived the fire that devastated the library in 1986 and is just beautiful.

Los Angeles, California

While the high rises of Los Angeles are imposing from below and make for a great skyline from a distance, they are ultimately impersonal and disposable, in my opinion.

Los Angeles, California

While the old architecture is reflected in the new, the new hardly carries much of its own character that would make it interesting to look at.

Los Angeles, California

This 12-story building, built in 1912, is 100 years old here in 2012 and has found new life as luxury lofts for those fortunate enough to be able to live in such splendor in the heart of L.A. This here should have been the end of the post, as I have no more photos of what we were doing on this day, but as I referenced above regarding itineraries, I had a note in that directory.

It turns out that we saw one of the earliest screenings of the documentary film Samsara, not only that, we had the opportunity to meet and talk for a moment with the director Ron Fricke, who made Baraka too, one of our all-time favorites.

Los Angeles with Jutta – Day 3

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the San Pedro Fish Market in California

San Pedro Fish Market for a late breakfast of a giant fish and mega tray of fajita-style potatoes, onions, and peppers sounded great to Caroline and me; maybe a little unorthodox for my mother-in-law, but she’s a good sport, and what could she do anyway as her home is nearly 6,000 miles away and she is traveling in our car.

San Pedro, California

Plus, how many times in our lives do we get to sit in a dining area where this is the view on a winter day?

Jutta Engelhardt at the San Pedro Fish Market in California

The fish was picked clean aside from the eyeballs as for the veggies, we gave them our best try but were ultimately defeated.

View from Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Today’s view is courtesy of the incredible efforts to combat smog in the Los Angeles basin and California in general. Out in the middle of this photo is a sliver of blue between the dark land and a silver low horizon of the sky, that’s the Pacific Ocean. More than likely, just to the right and out of view is San Pedro, where we were having breakfast, which is about 30 miles away or probably a couple of hours by car on a weekday.

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Here we are at the Griffith Park Observatory in the Hollywood Hills, and strangely enough, after visiting Los Angeles off and on over the past 21 years, this is the first time Caroline and I have made it up here. With this kind of visibility and weather, we couldn’t have picked a better day.

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

A Foucault Pendulum built back in 1935 is here, but I have to admit that I hope Caroline is willing to add something or other to the description of what exactly makes it a Foucault Pendulum. [In 1851, French physicist Leon Foucault used his pendulum to prove that the Earth rotates. His pendulum shows that when you have a really tall pendulum, it doesn’t just swing back and forth on the same plane, but the plane keeps shifting, and that is caused by the Earth’s rotation and what is called the Coriolis effect. Often, these pendulums are installed in science museums over a basin with flat sand so that the bob’s swings can be traced. – Caroline]

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

If you’ve never seen a Tesla Coil in operation, this is the place to witness it with your own eyes. When it was donated to the Observatory in 1937, there were a number of parts missing, but it was restored with the help of Kenneth Strickfaden, a Hollywood special FX artist who’d worked on the original Frankenstein with Boris Karloff, the Wizard of Oz, and his last film Young Frankenstein.

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

I don’t think I’m wrong about this educated guess, but that should be the San Gabriel Mountains in the distance, with Mt. Wilson being the highest peak.

View from Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Maybe a little redundant, considering I posted another photo above that included downtown Los Angeles, but I’m amazed by the view that I never knew growing up out here in the 70s.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California

Just hanging out, trying to walk off breakfast so we can grab an early dinner on the way back to Phoenix. Jutta was highly intrigued by the observatory since it is featured in the film “Rebel Without a Cause” with James Dean (whom she had a crush on back in the day).

Hollywood sign in California

Will I ever again have the opportunity to see the Hollywood sign with such clarity?

Yoma Myanmar Restaurant in Monterey Park, California

An empty plate is not the most compelling image. Heck, maybe none of the photos I share here are truly compelling, but I’m not posting to impress others; I’m posting to stoke the distant memories of those who experienced these days, that being Caroline and myself. From that one piece of oily green vegetable matter above the fork, I can be certain that this plate held a portion of Laphet Thoke, also known as Burmese fermented green tea salad. This place called Yoma Myanmar in Monterey Park was our food stop on our way home.

Los Angeles with Jutta – Day 2

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

Don’t neglect your stories because 10 or 20 years later, you might find yourself browsing your memories and looking at a sequence of photos, you’ll discover that nothing much of those days still exists from the depths of your head. I’m writing this in early 2022, having just stayed at the Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, so it is a no-brainer that our day started here, but the details are remote.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Santa Monica, California

With that landmass in the background, I can be assured that Caroline and Jutta are standing on the beach in Santa Monica north of the pier, but that’s about it.

Jutta Engelhardt in Santa Monica, California

To make my task more difficult, I’ve gone ahead and chosen 19 images to include here; not that I’ll have enough to write about the day, but I like what I captured, and they do remind me of those days we made our first visit to the museum just below.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Here we are at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

I can’t believe we could have chosen a more beautiful day to be here.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

An early “Talk to the Hand” sculpture.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Please excuse the following images for not having anything noted about them, but, to be honest, I got nothing…well, aside from inspiration, respect, and admiration

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Daikokuya Ramen Shop in Little Tokyo Los Angeles, California

I’d recognize this tiny shop in the heart of Los Angeles in a second; it is Daikokuya Little Tokyo, which, in my narrow opinion, has the best ramen on the west coast of America.

Niko Pueringer of Corridor Digital in Little Tokyo Los Angeles, California

At the time of our visit, I was a huge fan of the work coming out of the YouTube channel Corridor Digital, and as luck would have it, I ran into this guy, Niko Pueringer, who was waiting on a to-go order. Shamelessly, I asked to snag a photo of this minor celebrity; what they were doing with special FX and short storytelling I thought was genius.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California

Taking up our nosebleed seats way in the back, yep, that’s the wall about four rows behind us. Before explaining the reason for our attendance, let me share a tiny bit of nostalgia about the Shrine Auditorium: the scene in the 1933 version of King Kong where Kong breaks out of chains while being exhibited on stage was filmed right here.

Mahler Performance at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California

Now, on to the really big show, and I do mean REALLY BIG! Caroline, Jutta, nor I have ever attended a performance that featured 1011 people on stage, but that’s what Gustavo Dudamel has assembled before him as he conducts Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 8, and we were on hand so that we even got tickets for the extravaganza was a bit of a minor miracle.

Leaving L.A.

The sun is still low on the horizon this early holiday Monday morning on Wilshire Blvd. The streets are empty.

It’s Memorial Day. Monday morning, and the streets are still empty. The first sun rays are making their way to ground level as we are about to start our ride home. These quiet desolate occasions in a city that is almost always abuzz sure is a peculiar sight. This is a part of Los Angeles few have the opportunity to see. By 9:00 a.m., the roads will be full, shops will be open, and the frenzy that is found in this metropolis will be back in full swing.

Looking south on Wilshire Blvd toward Santa Monica and the Pacific Ocean just about 4 miles away on an early holiday morning in May

The Wilshire Motel is on the right. About four miles straight ahead is the furthest west we can travel without requiring a boat. Just down the street is Santa Monica, and beyond that, the Pacific Ocean. If time allowed, we would head that way for one more walk in the sand, but we were expecting heavy traffic on the return to Phoenix as we were not alone in heading to southern California. San Diego, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles are probably the three most popular weekend destinations for those of us who need to get away from Phoenix for a break. As I look at this empty thoroughfare, I can easily imagine a no-car day in L.A. where, on that occasion, only bicycles would be allowed. All across the southland (as it is known locally), people could explore the various interconnecting cities in the luxury of quiet that we are able to experience on these rare holiday mornings when most people opt to sleep in.

The Original Pantry Cafe has been open for business since 1924 - it is a landmark in downtown Los Angeles.

Well, we weren’t going to leave L.A. without at least a little bit of fanfare. The first stop before getting on Interstate 10 eastward was at The Original Pantry Cafe. I’ve probably told the story on my blog before, but here it is again. This place has been open 24/7 since 1924 – it has never closed. I have been coming here since 1981, and Caroline made her first visit somewhere in the late 1990s. Besides some furniture repairs and equipment replacements, I don’t believe much has changed about this place in the past 87 years. The breakfasts are huge and very inexpensive. The nostalgic feelings from a time lost are still alive and kicking at this landmark. With bellies, our minds, and experiences full for one long weekend, we leave for the 388-mile (628 km) drive home.

Another Perfect L.A. Day

Caroline Wise enjoying breakfast at Zabies Cafe in Santa Monica, California

Los Angeles is one of those places where you can feel like you have a purposeful life as a part of the city, that your existence is intertwined with the culture that surrounds you – as opposed to a city where you simply exist as an element within the hive. This was our first visit to Zabie’s Neighborhood Cafe in Santa Monica, and the owners welcomed us as though we were familiar regulars coming in as we would on any other Sunday; you won’t find that in Phoenix very often.

Zabies Cafe in Santa Monica, California

Caroline and I both ordered the Whole Grain Pancakes but couldn’t choose if we wanted blueberry, strawberry, or banana, so we asked for all three, and that is what we got. Breakfast at Zabie’s was perfect, starting us off on the right track to enjoy our Sunday.

On the south side of the pier at Santa Monica beach

It was still too early to do much in L.A. – even in go-go Los Angeles. So there was but one thing to do, head on over to the beach for an early morning walk in the sand and surf. In a few hours, as the day warms up, this beach, like most others along the southern California coast, will fill up with worshippers of the sun. My preference is for a quiet walk on an uncongested strand where, for a moment, the beach is an idyllic island setting, and it is all mine to enjoy.

A stop sign with a sticker attached below the word stop, it reads, "Eating Animals"

Free parking is not always easy to find in L.A.; as a matter of fact, just around the corner from this stop sign that asks us to “Stop Eating Animals,” we saw our first parking meter that allows the use of a debit or credit card in addition to coins. We kept on driving into the neighborhood and found an empty parking spot free of charge. Approaching this stop sign, we saw a placard outside a small duplex advertising a two-bedroom unit for rent. I called the number to see what they were asking for, $2,400 a month; I choked. We pay less than a third of that in Phoenix – one of the main reasons we put up with our desert town.

Inside the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California to see an exhibit by Jennifer Angus titled: All Creatures Great and Small

Years, it took years for Caroline and me to finally make the time to visit the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd across the street from the La Brea Tarpits. Every time we drove past this small museum, one or the other of us would sound off the reminder that one of these days, we need to stop in. Today was that day. On the second floor is where the exhibits begin, the museum typically hosts two artists or themes. For three and a half months, the second floor would be dedicated to a bug art exhibit by Jennifer Angus, titled: All Creatures Great and Small.

Inside the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California to see an exhibit by Jennifer Angus titled: All Creatures Great and Small

When you walk into the main space, you don’t immediately recognize what you are looking at; it doesn’t even look all that striking from a distance. Then, as you approach and start to see the details of what makes up the exhibit, you are struck. You are looking at insects. Brightly colored and arranged in patterns or made up in scenes within the cases, filling in for what might normally be figures in a dollhouse. Extraordinary and fun.

The artist occupying the third floor was Ann Weber; her exhibit was titled Love and Other Audacities. Ann weaves together large sculptures created from found cardboard. We should have started up here as her work is really nice, but being overwhelmed by the exhibit a floor below, it was hard to change channels from shock and amazement to interest and subtlety.

On Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California

From the museum, we needed to make our way over to the downtown area of L.A.

Wurstkuche in downtown Los Angeles, California - a hot place for an exotic sausage

Time for lunch on our unfolding perfect day. I read about Wurstküche on a blog some time ago. They have become somewhat famous and very busy. The line was longer before I snapped the photo, but then once in the lobby, it snakes through there before you arrive at the cash register and place your order. We split three sausages, the Mango Jalapeno with chicken and turkey and the Rattlesnake & Rabbit with jalapeno – this is one of their signature sausages, and it was yummy. The one sausage we didn’t really enjoy was the Vegetarian Mexican Chipotle. It was too spicy, and we love spicy, but there have to be other outstanding characteristic flavors besides just hot – this sausage didn’t cut the mustard. We also split an order of Belgian fries glazed in white truffle oil with two dipping sauces, the first was Bleu Cheese Walnut and Bacon, and the other was Chipotle Aioli. Caroline topped off her lunch with a rare find, a bottle of Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier from Bamberg, Germany – a smoked beer.

The 2nd Street Tunnel in downtown Los Angeles, California - made famous by a scene in Blade Runner

Over to 2nd Street for a drive through one of our favorite landmarks in L.A. – the 2nd Street Tunnel. If you don’t remember this sight, think Blade Runner, Terminator, and recently the movie Transformers. We have, on previous visits taken a moment to go over to Union Station, another location used in Blade Runner. One of these days, we’ll visit the Bradbury Building, where many of Blade Runner’s interior shots featuring J.F. Sebastian’s apartment were filmed.

A Royal Paulownia in bloom street side in Los Angeles, California

When you live in a desert, splashes of unexpected colors can be startling. We were meandering through the downtown area as we were not in a hurry to get to our next location. Along the way, we came across a bunch of Royal Paulownia trees in bloom – WOW. Our destination was Mitsuwa Marketplace at the corners of Centinela Ave and Venice Blvd. There is a Japanese grocery that also features four or five small restaurants around an open court, and a Japanese bookstore is near the entrance. We stopped here Saturday night with the hope of eating at Santouka Ramen, a highly rated and super popular ramen shop, but we arrived shortly before they closed. As we just had lunch and weren’t hungry, we wouldn’t be eating at Santouka today either; we were going back for Caroline to check the bookstore for their collection of Japanese craft books.

We had come back out towards Santa Monica and West L.A. because we had reservations for the eighth-row center at 4:00 p.m. at The Landmark Theatre on Pico Blvd for a showing of The Tree of Life. This and the Burmese food were the main reasons for our weekend trip to southern California. I was nearly certain that The Tree of Life would not play in Phoenix, or if it did, it might play in near-empty theatres for a week and be gone. As it turned out, the movie ended up playing in Phoenix for almost two months – who knew? Yes, it was worth it, driving to L.A. for a movie – we loved it.

Green Leaves Vegan Vegetarian Restaurant on Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood, California

After the movie, we took a drive through Hollywood. By 8:30 p.m., we were getting hungry again, but with so many choices of small, funky restaurants, it was hard to choose one. We had considered Korean in the Koreatown district but kept on driving, looking for something really different. Then, at 8:58 p.m. on a Sunday night, we spot this place called Green Leaves Vegan Vegetarian Restaurant on Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood. Drats, it’s 8:58. They’ll never seat us, but we’ll try anyway. Hey, no problem, come on in and have a seat – we are open until 12:00 a.m. Big frowns ensue for the city we live in because nothing is open past 9:00 p.m. on nearly any day of the week in Phoenix. I’ve stated this before on my blog: I am not vegetarian, Caroline is, but that doesn’t stop me from enjoying something different, and for most of the country, vegan and vegetarian is as exotic as finding the cuisine of central Africa. This place rocks, we split the Cha Cha Pumpkin – worth coming back for. The other dish is lost to forgotten memories, but it must have been good, too, because we both want to go back.

Now, this was a perfect day.