Los Angeles Bound

Caroline and John Wise

Got an early start driving to California today, allowing us to miss the crush to get out of Phoenix. With the major stress of leaving not happening it set the mood for a casual drive over. Also, strangely enough, we arrived in the city of angels with plenty of daylight left. While Caroline was prepared to indulge me with a visit to one of my nostalgic haunts for dinner, I opted to find a place known for its Sichuan style cooking and that’s just what I found.

Duck Tongue

It’s not every day you find a restaurant cooking up duck tongues, but Sichuan Impression on Valley Boulevard in Alhambra was serving up that and some spicy bullfrog and the amphibian dish came with a warning that it was seriously spicy. Our server wasn’t joking as we worked hard to eat our frog while our lips felt like they were swelling. We would have had some ginger rabbit too, but they were out.

Duck tongue has a bone, a rather large one at that considering how little meat you suck off the thing. What was there certainly tasted like a duck and now that we’ve had it we won’t likely be ordering it again. Not because it wasn’t good, it tasted fine (if you like duck) but it did require a quite bit of tedious work to tear the small portion of flesh off the bone.

Pool Sign

Once checked into our motel in Burbank we hit Magnolia Boulevard to get a few miles of walking in after the long drive. We make a mental note to visit this area again during the daytime to visit the shops as it’s a nice area around here. Tomorrow morning we have an event to attend right here in Burbank, more about that in my next blog entry.

Los Angeles – Day 2

Huckleberry Cafe in Santa Monica, California

From grasshoppers last night to green eggs and ham for breakfast. Huckleberry Cafe on Wilshire in Santa Monica will hopefully remain a favorite forever; here’s fingers crossed that they don’t lose their touch. Not only is their homemade English muffin topped with ham, egg, pesto, and arugula great, but their baked goods are seriously close to the quality we are accustomed to from Europe.

Santa Monica, California

Knowing that we’ll be in the car a lot later we needed to get some walking in before sitting down for our concert. We were only a few blocks away from the beach at Santa Monica, and as it is early on Sunday morning there are still many empty parking spots near the ocean.

Caroline Wise on the pier in Santa Monica, California

What’s up with Angelenos? Here it is a beautiful morning, blue skies, warm enough that we didn’t need sweaters on this late fall day and there are very few people out here. Maybe those who live here are so happy not to have to deal with traffic on the weekend as long as they stay at home that there’s no interest in the ocean unless they have visitors in town.

Berlin Currywurst at Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

For lunch, we just had to stop here at Berlin Currywurst at Grand Central Market. The verdict is that it’s okay, not great, just okay.

Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, California

We are arriving early at the Walt Disney Concert Hall for a pre-concert talk featuring Christopher Cerrone and Organist Cameron Carpenter. Christopher is the composer of  “The Insects Became Magnetic” and was also a performer in the piece, which I can inadequately describe as a kind of Kronos Quartet meeting the orchestra on a Japanese summer afternoon where the cicadas join the song. I mean to imply that I loved the debut performance of this work.

Organist Cameron Carpenter at Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, California

This is Cameron Carpenter, who has taken up life in Berlin, Germany. He gave a rivetingly smart talk about the organ pulling no punches in de-romanticizing the instrument away from its image as a spiritual tool. The man is passionate about knowledge in a way that makes it obvious to me, at least, why he has to live in Germany, where he can talk with people whose first inclination won’t be that he’s an asshole.

Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, California

The interior of the Disney Concert Hall is as spectacular as the exterior. I don’t think there’s a bad seat in the theater. This view was from our seats that cost the pretty penny of $184 each; not an inexpensive place to visit, but well worth it. Cameron’s rendition of Francis Poulenc’s Organ Concerto was a gut punch to the emotions as he commanded the attention of the hall towards his mastery in demonstrating the organ in ways that I’m fairly sure were new to many in attendance. With two standing ovations, he returned to the front of the stage for a fast rendition of a piece from Bach that will always stand out as the “right” way to perform it.

John Wise and Caroline Wise at Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, California

During the intermission, Caroline and I headed out to the garden terrace, where she raised a toast to her godmother Helga, whom she often thinks of when attending to the more formal and elegant aspects of life. The final piece of the afternoon saw Cameron and his organ console moved from the front of the stage towards the back of the orchestra to perform in Saint-Saëns: Symphony No. 3, “Organ.” We left with eyes teary in the emotion of music performed in a way that was able to poke a finger into the soft fabric of those sensitive enough to feel such gravity.

With no time to spare, we headed to the freeway going east. Dinner was relatively quick, with a stop at an old favorite we’ve been to a dozen times: The North Woods Inn. Driving into Phoenix around midnight, we were once again shocked by the thought that we’d just left yesterday morning. Sometimes, pinching yourself is not enough; this hardly feels real.

Los Angeles – Day 1

Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, California

Left Phoenix a bit late for a trip to Los Angeles this morning; it was already 8:00. I didn’t have a lot of expectations for what we’d be doing today because the real reason for coming over was a concert we’re attending tomorrow and that’s all that’s really important for this quick jaunt to L.A. We made pretty good time getting there, and Caroline brought up that the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, aka FIDM Museum, is only open on Saturday and doesn’t close until 5:00, so that became our destination. This formal wear was worn by the composer and pianist Johann Nepomuk Hummel back in the early 19th century.

Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, California

The FIDM is free to visit with a small exhibition space, mostly used by the students who are studying here. In the gift shop, Caroline spotted a handwoven and hand-dyed indigo-and-white scarf that looked spectacularly good on her and so it became hers.

Los Angeles, California

We were somewhat worried about air conditions in Los Angeles due to recent hellish fires attacking the state, but as you can see here it’s a beautiful day to be visiting.

Caroline Wise, Jessica Aldridge, John Wise at Angels Flight in Los Angeles, California

Oh yeah, Jessica is still with us, though this was her last day hanging out. After we left the museum, we went wandering around with no plan at hand except to get some walking in after sitting in the car for so long. We stumbled upon the top of Angels Flight Railway and took the opportunity to finally ride this funicular down the hill. Obviously, we lived through the experience, but that wasn’t true for someone else back in 2001, when a malfunction had one train careen down the track into the train below, killing a passenger and injuring several others. This tragedy closed the funicular for the next nine years, only to reopen in 2010 and close again in 2011 for a month and then again in 2013 following a derailment, this time staying closed until late 2017. So here we were, acting as guinea pigs, tempting fate.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Across the street from the funicular is the Grand Central Market, which must be the most popular food court in all of California. While we gladly accepted a free sample of a street taco, we had to forego eating anything else to ensure we had a large appetite for what was coming later.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

While my daughter lives just a couple of hours south of Los Angeles, she’s very rarely been up here. Seeing we were in the neighborhood, I thought she might like to see one of the more iconic locations where Blade Runner was filmed. She insists she’s seen the film before, but she’s definitely not as enthusiastic as we are, and so I’m gonna say this is checked into the category of remembrances in which she earned demerit points for not showing enough excitement.

Los Angeles, California

This was one of the first theaters on Broadway in Los Angeles – today, it is a rotting hulk. The Pantages Theatre first opened back in 1910, but by 1925, it started changing owners until, for the last dozen years, it was operational as a grindhouse-type independent joint. With all the million-dollar condos going up west of here, maybe someday this area will be gentrified too, and these old theaters could find a new use. Then again, why would anyone want to go out when they can watch their big-screen TVs in the safety of their expensive nests?

Talking religion on the streets of Los Angeles, California

Forty years ago, scenes such as this drew me into downtown Los Angeles on the bus over and over again without my parent’s knowledge. I was fascinated by those who preached, screamed, sang, cursed, or were putting their madness on display on the streets surrounding Skid Row. While much of the downtown area is going through a renaissance, there are still pockets where people can get their attitude on. These dozen angry men were preaching against the sin of homosexuality and bestiality. The sign on the right is admonishing white people to get ready for “Nuclear Fury and Eternal Slavery” for subverting the people of Earth.

Guelaguetza restaurant in Los Angeles, California

Out of the frying pan into the fire. We are at Guelaguetza Restaurante, known as the home of mole, where we will certainly be trying a sampler of their various Oaxacan mole flavors, but first up are the chapulines. You may have already seen in the above photo that I’m talking about grasshoppers. This is our most serious dive into eating insects yet. These particular hoppers have been cooked in jalapeno, onion, and tomato and are quite spicy. The three of us take a serious helping of fried bugs and roll them up into corn tortillas with Oaxacan string cheese, avocado, and a splash of lime. Other than the strange sensation when the end of the legs gets stuck in your teeth, these chapulines are seriously good eating. I’d eat them again. As for the moles, they were terrific, as was the dessert sampler.

Just as we were finishing up, I received a surprise phone call from Itay, and we set up a meeting at Aroma Sunset Bar & Grill on Sunset and Martel, just down the street from where Itay lives with Rotem. While I learned on the phone about his reason for reaching out, I left it as a surprise for Caroline until we met. Rotem is expecting a baby boy, due in April 2019. We spent the next 4 hours until midnight discussing baby names, dissing Los Angeles, talking about culture and discovery, along with their recent trip over to Hawaii for the honeymoon they never had after getting married. The funny thing about this chance meeting is that earlier in the day, I was complaining about how Itay never calls, and then when we’re just 30 minutes away from their apartment, he is dialing into our presence.

Los Angeles – Day 2

John Wise at Repetto Grade School in Monterey Park, California

Forty-seven years ago, I lived in Monterey Park, California, after moving here from Long Beach, California, and prior to that Buffalo, New York. Repetto was where I attended the 2nd grade; if I did any of the first grade here, I have no recollection. At the end of our school year back in 1971, we moved to flat land in West Covina because the Sylmar earthquake in February of that year freaked out my parents, who thought our house would slide down the hillside we were living on.

Kim Kee Noodle Cafe in Monterey Park, California

Pork kidneys are what brought us through Monterey Park this morning. On my quest to find new experiences for this short getaway, I found a popular breakfast place that specializes in kidneys on everything. We are at Kim Kee Noodle Cafe on Garvey Avenue, and this is my dish: egg noodles with shrimp and kidney. Maybe you wonder if I particularly enjoy pig kidneys? Well, the truth is I’ve never tried them, so why not go large and order them up for breakfast?

Caroline Wise at Kim Kee Noodle Cafe in Monterey Park, California

Caroline also had some of my dish, and I had some of hers. She opted for congee with century egg. Let me tell you about this specialty that was a first for the two of us: century eggs, also known as preserved eggs, are an interesting food item from Asia that traditionally was made by placing duck or chicken eggs in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime, and rice hulls for several weeks to several months until they are properly transformed. The egg’s white has a gelatinous translucent appearance and texture while the yolk was a greenish grey with a pungent flavor. The congee itself was rather bland to me, but with a splash of soy to add a bit of salt, it pepped right up. Served alongside the congee was fried bread. Sadly, we didn’t realize that bread was supposed to go into the congee, so we just took a few bites and left it at that. At least now we know better for future rice porridge breakfasts!

Kim Kee Noodle Cafe in Monterey Park, California

When I went to pay our bill (the Noodle Cafe is cash only, which required me to run down the block to the nearest ATM), the cashier, seeing my camera, insisted I take her picture, which, of course, I had to oblige. Our breakfast was an experience to remember, and lucky for us, I’ve mostly gotten over my sense of being squeamish about things I’ve not tried. Rarely a month goes by recently that Caroline doesn’t bring up the idea of eating insects; I can see them in our future and ultimately on our plates.

Freeway off-ramp in Los Angeles, California

Out of the San Gabriel Valley and into downtown Los Angeles.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

We are at the Grand Central Market for a coffee, some blogging, and waiting to meet up with a couple of people.

John Wise, Scott Jaeger, and Tirdad in Los Angeles, California

Those couple of people are Scott Jaeger and his friend Tirdad. These two owned their own music labels years ago when they first met; Tirdad now lives near Washington D.C. and came in to meet with Scott and attend last night’s concert, and Scott, if I hadn’t mentioned it, is from the Seattle area. Funny that we keep meeting in loud, busy locations that make communication a little bit strained. Hopefully, one day, we’ll be able to sit down in a quiet setting and talk for a minute, though if our next get-together is at Superbooth in Berlin, the chance of finding a noise-free environment is practically nil. Come to think about it, maybe meeting in noise is more poetically appropriate.

Hertz Donut MK3 from Industrial Music Electronics - Beta Version

Scott brought this thing for me to test its firmware. This “thing” is the beta version of the updated Hertz Donut Eurorack module, which has the specific function of being an oscillator. Nothing from Scott can be defined with a simple description, as his work is specialized in complexity and a brand of being obtuse, allowing for the discovery of what is not apparent. The Hertz Donut was originally inspired by the Buchla 259 Complex Waveform Generator and the subsequent Buchla 259e Twisted Waveform Generator.

After our return to Phoenix, I’ll be able to plug this in and power it up. My guess from previous work with his modules is that I’ll need half a day to begin feeling like I’m starting to understand some basics and then a few more days to realize I knew nothing. On my way, I will have the great fortune of being the first to discover just a fraction of what this voice will have to offer and hopefully help him smooth some of the rough spots and ensure there are no bugs that would hamper people playing with the Hertz Donut to its potential.

Itay and Rotem in Los Angeles, California

With no time to spare, we had to leave downtown L.A. and head over to Hollywood, where, for the first time in nearly a year, we were meeting up with Rotem and Itay Braverman. They moved out of Phoenix almost exactly a year ago and decided it was a great idea to live in the nutty swarm of constant motion and perpetual insanity that is Los Angeles. Due to this being a nearly last-minute trip to California, we were reluctant to impose on them, so prior to our departure Friday, we didn’t reach out, but then, late yesterday, while driving through Hollywood, I decided to call Itay.

His enthusiasm in hearing we were in his neighborhood was immediately apparent; he wanted us to come right over, but we were on our way downtown to the concert, so we agreed to meet today around noon. It was terrific seeing these two Arizona/Israel ex-pats and hearing about their adventure in the madness they’ve found here. After a thousand miles an hour tromp into all things cultural, technological, social, and bureaucratic, our brief visit was all too soon over as we had another scheduled event on our calendar. We said our goodbyes, exchanged hugs and were happy to hear their great enthusiasm for having us stay with them on our next visit.

Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in Los Angeles, California

Down the freeway and back to the east, we’re in the City of Industry, where we already had tickets for the Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo. This unique event is America’s only touring black rodeo and is sometimes called “The Greatest Show on Dirt.”

Caroline Wise at the Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in Los Angeles, California

The rodeo celebrates America’s black cowboys and cowgirls, and once again, Caroline and I find ourselves the recipients of the greatest of fortunes in being in attendance for yet another incredible cultural event. The lady on the right was part of the Grand Entry at the beginning of the festivities and shared with us some interesting details about what was going on in the arena.

Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in Los Angeles, California

The Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo got underway back in 1984 and was created by Lu Vason after attending a rodeo where there wasn’t one black cowboy, though America has a long history of black cowboys. While everyone knew Will Rogers, not many knew of the cowboy Bill Pickett. So it was that the guy who is credited with creating the Pointer Sisters went on to move from entertainment to education by bringing the history of this part of America to the masses.

Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in Los Angeles, California

Bill Pickett was born in Texas back in 1870. He’s the originator of a move called “Bulldogging,” where the cowboy leaps off his horse onto the back of a steer and drags it to a stop. Today, that move is called Steer Wrestling, but it was Bill Pickett who first executed that daring feat. Today black cowboys and cowgirls are alive and well, coming from all corners of America, including Compton here in the Los Angeles area to Florida on the east coast.

Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in Los Angeles, California

Should you find yourself in Oakland or Los Angeles, California, Washington D.C., Atlanta, Georgia, Memphis, Tennessee, or Denver, Colorado, during one of the events, do yourself and your family a favor and go.

Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo in Los Angeles, California

There is one not-so-positive note about this weekend I’d like to share, though it is a bit of a downer to me. There were very few white people at today’s event. Caroline and I did not attend because of any particular connectivity to black people but because this was something uncommon that we’d likely not see in Phoenix, Arizona. Los Angeles is an intensely diverse city, and it simply feels like there should be enough cross-cultural curiosity that would have drawn in a more diverse crowd. As with our visits to Cafe Gunul 2 on Friday night, Bon Juk on Saturday morning, and Kim Kee Noodle Cafe this morning, we were again the only white people.

We’ve seen this before at the San Pedro Fish Market, where the majority of visitors are Hispanic, or Mix Bowl in Pomona, where during our first dozen visits, we were the only whites, and then Ten Ren’s Tea Time in Rowland Heights is super popular with Japanese customers but seemingly not with Anglo-Saxons. While these businesses and events are allowed to operate freely, and they themselves are inclusive, the community at large sometimes feels segregated.

San Gabriel Valley in California

While this is an extraordinarily beautiful day here in L.A., this is not the first time we’ve seen the mountains this clearly. I’m pointing this out because this was a rare view when I was growing up right out in the middle of this view. Straight ahead and slightly to the left is the city of West Covina, where I spent the majority of my childhood.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the West Covina Police Department in California

Nostalgia has pulled me back to West Covina on more than a few occasions, and today, our stop was somewhere I’d never brought Caroline before: the West Covina Police Station. Back when I was 13 or 14, I entertained the idea of being a police officer and so I looked at joining the Explorers Program where I could learn about what it was like to have such a career. Puberty and punk rock intruded into that naive and innocent young boy’s life, and my opportunity to wear a blue uniform was never realized. Across from the station was city hall, the library I’d visited a thousand times, and the city court where I’d go sit in on cases as people explained their drunk driving, speeding, petty crimes, and occasionally an assault or other serious crime. We were just spending some extra time out here until our next date.

Pacific Dining Car in Los Angeles, California

As we drove away from Hollywood earlier, we were not more than three minutes down the road when it occurred to me that we didn’t have fixed plans for after the rodeo, so I called Itay and Rotem back and asked if they’d join us for dinner, and they accepted. Prior to leaving Phoenix, I was scouring the web looking for late-night eats for our arrival Friday night. One of the places that showed up on a number of lists was this Los Angeles icon that’s been open 24/7 since 1921 called Pacific Dining Car. The place is made up like a train’s luxury dining car from back in the day. Seemed like a relatively safe bet, and in addition to feeding us, we’d earn bragging rights to having eaten at this “famous” stop in L.A.

Itay Braverman, Caroline Wise, John Wise, and Rotem Braverman in Los Angeles, California

Dinner itself was okay, nothing to really celebrate, but cheesily adequate. My guess is that this place will be lucky to celebrate its 100th birthday as not only is it rather expensive, but its style of feeding people seems to have already disappeared from many other locales. Our desserts were amazing, but at $14 each, they better be. With that said, should you be in L.A. I could probably recommend Pacific Dining Car for that 3:00 in the morning craving for filet mignon and eggs instead of Jack-in-the-Box, but for a regular dinner, not so much.

Los Angeles – Day 1

Porridge with Abalone at Bon Juk Restaurant in Korea Town Los Angeles, California

Starting on a fresh foot, having something new at Bon Juk restaurant in Koreatown. It’s hard to find a restaurant serving what would be considered Asian breakfast, but here it is, a porridge with abalone, and out of the photo is a sweet pumpkin porridge. So we covered sweet and savory in one meal. The other traditional sides that come with it were kimchee (of course), diced squid and radish, roasted pickled beef, and tangy cold radish water.

Dead Pay Phone on on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California

Payphones are certainly on their way out, but their long shadows remain. Sometimes, all you find is the sunburned spot and concrete pad where it once was bolted to the ground. at other times, only the phone has been removed, and then, on rare occasions, the phone remains, albeit in some state of disrepair. As these relics become anomalies, I find them more and more intriguing as my memory is able to find images of people from a previous century talking on them, stopping to look for something in the phone book that accompanied them (hoping the page we needed was still in it), and people asking for change so they could make a phone call. In some way, I guess they are like public installations of the once-ubiquitous typewriter: essential at one time, now mostly replaced.

Church on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California

On Wilshire Boulevard, we admire how beautiful everything is and how it’s amplified by the incredibly perfect weather. Angelenos tell us that within the week, it’s supposed to creep up into competition with Phoenix for being too damn hot, as it’s forecast to reach well into the 100’s.

View from Mulholland Drive in Southern California

We cut across Beverly Hills ending up on Mulholland Drive, where we found further proof of just how incredible our first full day in L.A. is turning out.

Skirball Museum in Los Angeles, California

The Skirball Cultural Center is best described by its Wikipedia article that reads, “The Skirball is an educational institution devoted to sustaining Jewish heritage and American democratic ideals. It has been open to the public since 1996. The Center, named after philanthropist couple Jack H. Skirball and Audrey Skirball-Kenis, features a museum with regularly changing exhibitions, film events, music and theater performances, comedy, family, literary, and cultural programs. The campus includes a museum, a performing arts center, conference halls, classrooms, libraries, courtyards, gardens, and a café.”

The first exhibition we encounter is a retrospective of Leonard Bernstein, whose 100th birthday is quickly approaching. From old pianos he’d played during his lifetime to behind-the-scenes footage of Marlon Brando during the filming of “On The Waterfront,” which he scored in addition to “West Side Story.”

Skirball Museum in Los Angeles, California

It was a pleasant surprise to see a couple of pieces from Kehinde Wiley, who is the artist who painted President Barack Obama’s official portrait.

Skirball Museum in Los Angeles, California

What originally attracted us to visit the Skirball on this visit was the exhibit on Jim Henson and his career in puppetry. While most well-known for the Muppets and his frog puppet Kermit he was also an accomplished actor, director, and writer.

Caroline Wise at the Skirball Museum in Los Angeles, California

Somehow, I don’t think Jim Henson really ever considered that others would use his puppets for picking their noses; as a matter of fact, I don’t think many people who know Caroline would have thought her capable of such a thing either.

Skirball Museum in Los Angeles, California

Before she saw the note pointing out that the image was from Frankfurt, Caroline noticed the famous bridge in the background known as the “Eiserne Steg” or, in English, “Iron Pathway.” It is, of course, located in the city where Caroline was born.

Skirball Museum in Los Angeles, California

The one exhibit that appears to be a permanent display is the one that focuses on Jewish history in America. The Skirball is a brilliant modern space that, if we lived in L.A., would frequently draw our attention to the rotating exhibits and events that are hosted here.

Onion Rings from Chicago For Ribs Restaurant in Los Angeles, California

The world’s best onion rings, according to the menu at Chicago for Ribs in Los Angeles south of Venice. We were supposed to visit Berlins for an authentic German Döner Kebab and also go over to John Fluevog’s shoe store around the corner, but somehow, I forgot that we were visiting Los Angeles in July when half the western United States has descended on the area to visit the beaches, Hollywood, and Disneyland for their summer holidays. I don’t think we looked for a parking spot for more than 7 seconds before we woke up to the reality that suggested we head elsewhere. As for the BBQ we shared, it was pretty good.  Though I’m not sure we’d go again, it was well worth the stop.

Ballona Freshwater Marsh in Playa Del Ray, California

Before we stopped for lunch and a much-needed coffee, we had passed the Ballona Freshwater Marsh, and seeing we had some extra time to spend away from the freak zone that is Venice Beach, why not walk around this outpost of nature along Lincoln Boulevard? Nearly everywhere we looked in Los Angeles, there were signs of the growing homeless population, and here, next to the marsh was no different, with a tent set up in the brush.

Ballona Freshwater Marsh in Playa Del Ray, California

The marsh is a recent revitalization project to reclaim the land for its original purpose after decades of farming the area. The ecosystem is supporting a range of wildlife and the lush interior of the fenced habitat appears to be thriving.

Ballona Freshwater Marsh in Playa Del Ray, California

Algae are doing just fine on the surface of the murky waters, where ducks and other waterfowl dip below the surface on the hunt for good eats. Using a stick to poke through the surface, it turned out that the water was quite shallow, and in disturbing the mud/goo, the earth released a stench that suggested we back away before being overwhelmed by the swamp gas that was threatening to incapacitate us. We obliged.

Ballona Freshwater Marsh in Playa Del Ray, California

It’s surprising to us to be in L.A., find these small remnants of what the city once looked like, and realize that we are still in one of America’s largest metropolises.

Flyer for Genocide Organ playing in Los Angeles, California

While we were walking back to the car, Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics, who is also in Los Angeles this weekend, sent me this flyer. For the most part, there was nothing new in the way of relevant information from the flyer as we already had tickets to the sold-out show, but what we didn’t know was that there’d be “Nazi Haircuts” and a “Moon Bounce” available too. More on this later.

Film crew on the streets of Los Angeles, California

Dipped into a Starbucks for some revitalization juice and some writing on this beautiful breezy cool day, and while typing out the beginnings of this blog entry and watching the world go by, a police escort was driving by with this film crew dragging a car around with two actors in the front seat performing a scene. No idea what the movie, ad, or music video will be, but we know that the license plate is “Fivestar.”

Man on freeway overpass in Los Angeles, California

Went on a wild goose chase looking for dinner at Gracias Madre over on Melrose Avenue, but as we drove up the line outside and our limited amount of time left before the concert started said otherwise, so we headed over to the freeway to contemplate dinner near our concert location. While on the 101 parking lot, which is rarely ever considered a freeway, we spotted this guy dancing in religious ecstasy, letting us know that Jesus Saves Ikwote. Of course, we had to look up Ikwote, and then we realized the two were probably not related, and our bridge dancer was probably only referring to Jesus.

Caroline Wise in the Arts District of Los Angeles, California

Found parking rather quickly in the arts district; not only that, it was free. If you’ve ever visited California, you’ll understand that in San Diego, San Francisco, and Los Angeles, this is a rarity. Our concert is around the corner at 428 Hewitt, which is just across from 427 Hewitt, which, back in 1980, was a “club” called the Hideaway. It was here that I attempted to see Black Flag for the third or fourth time without success. The reason I didn’t get to see them that night was the same as previous attempts: the clubs would descend into chaos before Black Flag ever got to take the stage. On this particular September night, I first saw Mad Society fronted by this 11-year-old kid, Stevie Metz. They got through their set and were then followed by the Stains when total mayhem broke out. I don’t remember the Descendants or the Circle Jerks ever taking the stage, and Black Flag might have been outside the entire time because that’s the next place I saw them. This was also when I first met Chuck Dukowski, who was their bass player. Looking back it was an amazing time to be growing up in Los Angeles. To be back 38 years later, catching a power electronics show couldn’t be a more nostalgic moment in my evolving life.

Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics watching Genocide Organ at The Resident in Los Angeles, California

The merch booth is hopping busy with a line of 40 people. T-shirts and CDs are flying off the table. Coming in from Mannheim, Germany, with only one other performance slated for San Francisco from what I can find online, this four-piece Power Electronics group better move a serious amount of stuff to help offset the costs of bringing the band to the States.

The Resident in Los Angeles, California

There are two opening acts that we hadn’t known about, so our dithering on getting something to eat, figuring we’d just grab something after the show, proved short-sighted as by midnight, we were seriously hungry. The first performer was known as Liebestod (Loves Death), and I’m guessing this was mostly his setup, though he might have been sharing the table with the next act called Hive Mind. Both solo artists played a short set, and the first one was heavy on distortion and aggressive vocals, and the other a kind of groovy industrial ambient thing.

Caroline Wise watching Genocide Organ at The Resident in Los Angeles, California

I might guess that some people might wonder if I dragged my wife to this, but I can inform you that Caroline was listening to Whitehouse well before I met her in 1989, and she even supplied vocals to an experimental noise project in Frankfurt called VDM. I’ll leave it at that so as to not embarrass her too much as she’s never really been proud of her skills as a vocalist. Sadly neither of us own much in the way of black clothing anymore, and so we felt that we kind of stood out, combined with the apparent fact that we could have been the oldest people here, almost made us feel special.

Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics watching Genocide Organ at The Resident in Los Angeles, California

This is Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics, whom I mentioned above. He’s the guy who told me about tonight’s performance that allowed us to grab tickets before the show sold out, which happened just a few hours after I nabbed a couple for Caroline and me. Here’s some back story: earlier this year, Scott welcomed my feedback regarding his Eurorack sequencer, the Stillson Hammer MKII. He was in the process of squashing some nagging bugs and irregularities in the unit’s firmware. From that bit of collaboration, he asked if I’d be interested in testing a module he was updating; I jumped at the opportunity, and then, a couple of months later, he released the Piston Honda MK3. Today he brought another unit he’s working on an upgrade for that is known as the Hertz Donut MK3. I’m only sharing this info as by the time I hit publish on this blog post, he’ll have already presented a working prototype at Perfect Circuit Audio in Burbank, California, that, sadly, I won’t be on hand for. Click here to watch that presentation.

So not only are we catching the same show, and he’s delivering the next module I’ll be testing, but we finally have the chance to meet face to face. Regarding testing modules, I find that there’s a great deal of stress that accompanies the process of digging into a module I’m totally unfamiliar with, triggering my thinking that I’m possibly too dense to dig into the complexity of someone else’s engineering genius. It’s kind of the whole “Wayne’s World – I’m not worthy” shtick, but what I do know is that if someone is going to invest his/her time in waiting for feedback from me so they can get on with the business of making a living, I’m going to give 150% of my effort, for whatever that’s worth.

Genocide Organ at The Resident in Los Angeles, California

On to the performance of Genocide Organ that gets going around 10:45 p.m. and the first refreshing part of the show is that we get to see a four-piece that knows how to work the stage and the audience. These guys have been doing this since the late ’80s or so. To my ears, they took inspiration from Sutcliffe Jugend, Whitehouse, Discharge, and the contradiction found in the obfuscation of mixed visual cues that lead the casual observer down a deeper rabbit hole of frightening uncertainty, forcing them to try to interpret music in ways that are not dealt with regarding non-threatening banalities found in so many other pop genres. Whereas in gangster rap, the dominant white culture was able to isolate the black man and focus on a few tropes drawn from the lyrics allowing them to marginalize the culture using simplistic bullshit, Power Electronics fell into the vacuum of absurdity that reflects the mutation of murder, war, sex, carnage, deviancy, hate, and shame into a consumer good that is made new as pop entertainment. Power Electronics turns these evils back into what they are: atrocities. We live in contradiction of apparent truths and are left with a few who are trying to peel the scab of indifference off the victim while screaming at them, “Do you know what’s real?”

Genocide Organ at The Resident in Los Angeles, California

There are artists who experiment with uncertainty and improvisation to build an energy that might be translated by the audience into self-realization. Is this so different from the priest trying to bring the flock to god through prayer and obeisance? This is the church of fuck you culture and a full-frontal attack on removing one’s self from the mainstream, even if it’s just for an hour or two. The hysteria of sound, like all great rock and roll shows, channels the human-animal into primacy, and the music genres of Noise, Power Electronics, Musique Concrete, and Industrial allow us to find our raw voice and blank emotion where we are simply being the living thing outside of logic and control. We are not in love, romantic, tragic, or sad during these types of events. We are aware and alert, with sharpened senses paying close attention to the nuance of the attack. We are the fingernail on the chalkboard, and society at large is the ears.

In this sense, Genocide Organ accomplished what bands like Laibach and the work of William Bennett set out to do: make pop music for those angry enough to see things for what they are. Rock on Garth.

Los Angeles – Day 0

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Banning, California

It’s Day Zero because it’s a travel day. We won’t have much time to do anything besides driving the 381 miles to our motel in Los Angeles. Of course, we had to get gas before leaving Arizona so we could minimize how much we have to buy in California because it’s almost a dollar a gallon more here, though why should that matter with our Prius as it’s gonna set us back like $9 which is not exactly the biggest expense we’ll have this weekend. And then there’s the coffee we’ll need in Blythe. It was an iced coffee, as it’s a toasty 110 degrees there next to the Colorado River.

Cafe Gunul 2 in Rowland Heights, California

Looking for restaurants that were open late Friday night, I found this highly recommended Korean fusion place a few miles before our motel called Cafe Gunul 2. The lively little joint in a strip mall had about a five-minute wait, and the first thing we noticed was that we were the only Anglos in sight. I’d already read about some favorites and so that’s what we went for.

First up was the “Flaming Mac’n Cheese’n Corn’n Hot Cheetos,” which is one of the greatest comfort foods we have ever experienced. Of course, both of our hearts nearly stopped beating almost in unison as they balked at feeding these over 50-year-old blood-moving machines a diet rich in fat, grease, and crunchy, gooey yumminess that should probably only be eaten by healthy 20-year-olds who still have time to repair their arteries.

Cafe Gunul 2 in Rowland Heights, California

The owner of Cafe Gunul 2 did all the artwork in his restaurant, and while these small panels are pretty good, his larger wall-height pieces are as amazing as his food.

Cafe Gunul 2 in Rowland Heights, California

If you think we might be overdosing on carbs here as you see this plate of “Tato Lover Kimchi Bacon Fries,” you’d still be missing part of the picture as we also split an order of “Da Best Kimchi Pasta Ever,” which, besides the Kimchi, it is based on a carbonara recipe. Did we finish it all? No damn way.

Caroline Wise in Hacienda Heights, California

Our “cheapo” room at Motel 6 wasn’t all that cheap really at $100 a night, but it is summer and the last weekend of Outfest – an LGBTQ Film Festival that is going on for 11 days this year. That reminds me of the year we visited Disneyland during Gay Days and saw the stunned look of mid-westerners on what was probably their once-in-a-lifetime big trip to California and finding the Happiest Place on Earth also being the Gayest Place on Earth for a weekend. Gotta say that Caroline and I both love the diversity that is found in this state.

Tomorrow is the official start to our extended three-day weekend, where we are trying not to visit anywhere we’ve been before, which means none of our favorites.