A Beautiful Day in Frankfurt – Europe Day 2

U-Bahn at Zeilweg in Frankfurt, Germany

Jet lag hit hard this trip, real hard. Last night was brutal, and when I finally went to bed at 10:30 p.m. I was ready to sleep a good long time. Then, at 3:00 a.m., like an alarm went off, Caroline and I both woke and couldn’t get back to sleep. Well, at least she finally started her version of snoring after about an hour, but I heard the first U-Bahn of the day go by, followed about an hour later by the first flight approaching Frankfurt Airport. All the while, the birds had gotten an early start and were singing shortly after 3:00 a.m.

When I finally did fall back asleep, the sky and our room were getting brighter and I was debating going downstairs to do some writing. It was 9:00 a.m. when we finally woke again, as did everyone else. A late breakfast of various brötchen, butter, jam, meat, and cheeses was had before Caroline and I finally made our way over to the U-Bahn stop to head into the city center.

Frankfurt, Germany

This was our first view of Frankfurt from within the city after arriving at Hauptwache from the U-Bahn. We could have transferred trains, but I wanted to walk, so we hoofed it down Zeil to Konstablerwache and got on another train to head to Bergerstrasse. We could have gone to the Bornheim stop, but again, old memories and a perfect day forced us to walk the rest of the way to my mother-in-law’s.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt around the corner from Jutta's apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

We picked up Jutta at her apartment and took a walk to the nearby bus stop to make our way to Lohrberg.

Lohrberg in Frankfurt, Germany

Like I said, “It’s a perfect day.”

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt walking in Lohrberg in Frankfurt, Germany

We had some walking to do in the park on the mountain (Berg is a mountain in German) to get to where we were going to spend the afternoon.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Main Appelhaus in Lohrberg Frankfurt, Germany

We took up a table outside at the MainAeppelHaus and shared a terrific lunch of Handkaese mit Musik, a meat and cheese plate, and a couple of Frankfurters (besides the two I was traveling with). Caroline had a red currant prosecco (a sparkling wine), Jutta had an Apfelwein with sparkling water, and me a simple sparkling water.

Lunch at the Main Appelhaus in Lohrberg Frankfurt, Germany

For Nachtisch (dessert), we shared a slice of apricot cake and cherry cake (both made with Spelt) and had coffee to extend our time sitting here, enjoying the blue skies.

Poster teaching about the various apples that grow at Lohrberg in Frankfurt, Germany

After more than a few hours, we finally vacated our seats and started walking back to the parking lot to catch the bus back into the city. Caroline asked that I include this poster featuring the different apples that grow here upon the Lohrberg. (The MainÄppelHaus is a non-profit institution dedicated to teaching folks about native apple and pear strains).

Jutta Engelhardt and her youngest daughter Caroline Wise at Lohrberg in Frankfurt, Germany

We can never have enough cute photos of Caroline and her mom.

The skyline of Frankfurt, Germany

This is the skyline of Frankfurt, as seen from Lohrberg. The temperature was perfect; the breeze was even better than that. Our lunch was amazing, the conversation and laughs even more so. Everything about this first full day in Germany has lent itself to making a great day here in Frankfurt.

The Engelhardt's at dinner in Frankfurt, Germany

Back at the Engelhardt’s, Klaus had made us a lasagna for dinner and although it seemed like we just ate, it was going on 7:00 p.m. before we sat down. When we left this morning, he was busy in the kitchen making the bolognese before turning his attention to the bechamel; the rest was finished while we were out. While it was supposed to rain at some point today it turns out that things stayed so pleasant that Klaus had set up the table outside so we could sit in their garden for Abendessen (dinner).

The Kindergarten where Katarina attended around the corner for the Engelhardt's home in Frankfurt, Germany

This is the Hundertwasser Kindergarten and is the first school Katharina attended. This unique architectural work has 48 different windows, very few right angles, many curves, grass on the roof, a slide from the hill down to the first level, and other features that make this building not only unique but world-famous. After dinner, we took a walk for me to finish my daily step count, and as this is directly around the corner from where we are staying with the Engelhardt’s we headed this way.

Caroline Wise and her sister Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Caroline Wise and her older sister Stephanie Engelhardt. After not seeing her sister for 18 years or meeting her niece until she was 13, we visited Germany again five years ago, and then Caroline came back a couple of years ago for Stephanie’s 50th birthday, which was being celebrated at the same time that their mother Jutta was celebrating her 80th.

A German Snail crossing the trail in Frankfurt, Germany

There’s a joke here somewhere about the snail crossing the road, but I’m tired, and it’s getting late so I think I’ll just leave this here as the ending of the day.

Walking stats: A mere 5 miles or 8 km and 15 floors.

Getting Places – Europe Day 1

First glimpse of the European continent

The first view of the European Continent coming into view.

Rural European land from 30,000 feet

Farms in the Netherlands.

Farmland in Germany

Farms in Germany. If you are looking for more details, you won’t find them here. We are exhausted and have been traveling for fifteen hours now.

German city from 30,000 feet

More of Germany from high in the sky.

Approaching Frankfurt and passing the Main River in Germany

Approaching the Frankfurt International Airport and passing over the Rhein River as we do so.

Arriving in Frankfurt and greeted by Stephanie, Katarina, and Klaus Engelhardt with Caroline Wise

Best welcome at an airport ever! Caroline and I were met by Stephanie, Katharina, and Klaus Engelhardt here in the city of Caroline’s birth, Frankfurt, Germany. We are on vacation and will be moving further down the road at a point, but for now, we are here to visit family.

John Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise and Katarina Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

After a small snack with the Engelhardt’s, we walked over to our dinner reservation, which, when I made it I didn’t know was around the corner from Klaus and Stephanie. Shortly after we arrived, Jutta was delivered by taxi, and we were ready to grab a table. This was my first time seeing my Schwiegermutter (mother-in-law) in five years; back then, it was an emergency visit due to her breaking her hip. Although I was incredibly jet-lagged it was still a wonderful moment with all of us sitting down for dinner.

Hand cheese (handkaesse mit musik) with onions

“Handkäse mit Musik” was my appetizer of choice as this is one of the typical Frankfurt dishes and is never found in regions beyond the state of Hessen.

Calf schnitzel with green sauce

My entree was “Schnitzel vom Kalb mit grüner Soße” or schnitzel with green sauce. This is another taste of Frankfurt, difficult if not impossible to get anywhere else. I could have eaten this for dessert, too, but vanilla ice cream with hot raspberry (Heisse Liebe or Hot Love) spoke to me.

Asparagus and boiled potato with Hollandaise

Caroline opted for asparagus and boiled potato with hollandaise. White asparagus is not available year-round, and we were lucky to get this dish as we are moving closer to the end of the season; of course, she shared it with me.

Speissekammer Restaurant in Frankfurt, Germany

Our re-acquaintance with the traditional flavors of Frankfurt happened here at Speisekammer Restaurant, where we opted for a table outside. By the end of dinner, I was falling down tired from the jet lag; as a matter of fact, for a moment, I nearly fell asleep at the table and had to excuse myself to walk around. The first day of this vacation is now firmly set in the column of perfection.

Due to being in the air the better part of our day, we only collected 3 miles of walking or 5 km and hiked up a minuscule four floors.

First Day – Solo in Germany

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

In 2015, I visited Frankfurt by myself because John was too busy with his company. I really wanted to go right at that time, early September because that would allow me to help celebrate my sister’s 50th birthday and my mother’s 80th birthday at the annual family reunion hosted by Klaus’ family. I would only stay a little over a week and managed to see different family members every day. My calendar was packed! Unfortunately, I didn’t take any notes, and some of my photos were lost along with my phone (always back up your phone!!!), so it is difficult to fill in these entries so much later with so little to work with. 

I landed in Frankfurt! What a relief after almost missing my connecting flight in D.C. because I thought I’d have to change terminals, which ended up not being true. I was the second last person to enter the plane before the doors closed! Continuing on that theme, in Frankfurt, I thought my bag was lost in transit for probably 10 minutes until I realized that the lonely black bag circling the baggage carousel was actually my red bag, flipped upside down. Somehow, I had never noticed that our bag wasn’t red on all sides. I texted John the good news while I was still able to use the airport WIFI.

Frankfurt, Germany

Since I landed at around 7.30 in the morning, I had told my sister and brother-in-law not to pick me up from the airport and headed towards my mother’s apartment using public transport. On the way, I bought my first day-ticket for public transport at the RMV store at Hauptwache.

Frankfurt, Germany

Afterward, I went for a walk past Hauptwache Cafe to the nearest post office to buy stamps. Businesses were just opening and I was amazed to see that the street cleaners are still using old-timey brooms made with twigs instead of leaf blowers.

Frankfurt, Germany

I had promised John I would write a card every day, and I already had one ready to go, which I had picked up at the Phoenix airport.

Frankfurt, Germany

Next, I strolled down Zeil towards Konstablerwache. Before I hopped on the train to Bornheim, I took a good look at all the fresh local produce for sale at the market.

Frankfurt, Germany

This is Saalburgstrasse. My mother’s house is the somewhat bluish one about four houses down on the right. Considering it had been cloudy when I landed, I was happy to see blue sky.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

My mom was so happy to see me. We had a lot to talk about and eventually decided to celebrate with a slice of plum cake at Café Eifler at the corner of Saalburgstrasse and Berger Strasse.  I love plums (specifically, damson plums), and plum cake was very much in season and on offer everywhere. I ended up eating a slice just about every day I was in Germany.

It got late when I finally got to the Engelhardt’s, where we looked at their vacation photos (they had just returned from a trip to Japan!) and then fixed up my bed in the attic, where I sadly went to sleep by myself.

Leaving America

John Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Phoenix, Arizona

Just as I picked up Jutta in Denver, she’s leaving for Germany through Denver too except this time Caroline is flying with her to make sure everything goes okay. This has been a relatively quiet trip with Jutta here in Arizona with us. No grand adventures, just a lot of hanging out in our day-to-day life. It was six weeks away from the cold of the German winter but she’s returning to two months more of that season when she lands in about 16 hours from now. This is strange to think that this is our last photo together in the United States. Of course, I’ll see her again in Germany but these visits to our home have filled her with so many indelible memories that it is a sad thought of not seeing her face light up with a giant smile when she sees the two of us waiting for as she makes her way off the plane and into the terminal.

Giant Crater in Arizona

Caroline obviously got the window seat on the way to Denver and snapped a few photos along the way including this shot of the Meteor Crater in Northern Arizona. She also had a couple of nice photos of the snow-covered mountains coming out of New Mexico into Colorado but without much more to write about I won’t be sharing this time.

Denver Airport

By the time they arrived, the ladies had to hoof it to the plane due to some reason or other and some delays that were going on due to heavy snow. In their haste, Caroline never had the opportunity to snap a selfie of them but with her own plane back to Phoenix delayed she hung out until Jutta was well on her way back to Frankfurt.