Grand Canyon – Day 2

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

It’s barely light out here on the edge of the Grand Canyon National Park. We stayed the night at El Tovar, ensuring we’d be close to the rim in the morning.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

It’s a bit cold out here, even in May, though not so cold as on previous visits when we had to bundle up in blankets from our room to stay a little warm.

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We’ve all seen these images before, maybe 100s of times, but when you are standing here in person, they take on an entirely new meaning. So, while my photos are not award-winning masterpieces of dramatic art, they serve us perfectly as reminders of the moments we were here to witness yet another sunrise over the Grand Canyon for ourselves.

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The Canyon fills with light rapidly once the sun is fully over the horizon though pockets of dark linger deep within.

Navajo Arts & Craft stand near the Little Colorado River Canyon in Arizona

The dream catcher at the very center of this photo is destined for Jutta’s friend Linda back in Germany.

Walnut Canyon National Monument in Arizona

Having accomplished what we set out to do at the Canyon we visited Walnut Canyon National Monument near Flagstaff to bring Jutta to yet one more place of Native American history.

Within a couple of days, Jutta was on her way back to Frankfurt, Germany, and once again, I am simultaneously happy to have my time and privacy back and sad that someone who enjoys the United States as much as my mother-in-law can’t just hang out with us and see even more of the magnificence that defines the natural beauty of our country.

Grand Canyon – Day 1

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise on the way to the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

So Jutta may have strolled the streets of New Orleans, snorkeled in the Florida Keys, sped over the Everglades on a fan boat, ate Southern-style cuisine, walked a short bit on the Appalachian Trail, visited Graceland, and a bunch of other things on this trip to the United States, but a vacation in America without a stop in the Grand Canyon wouldn’t be a proper visit, and so here we go.

Sunset in Northern Arizona

It’s late in the day, almost evening here on Saturday, when we decide that we’ll race up the Grand Canyon so Jutta can let everyone know back home in Germany that once again she has been to this National Park that intrigues her so deeply. We obviously won’t make sunset in the park, but we’ll be there bright and early for sunrise.

Casa Grande, Arizona

Casa Grande National Monument in Coolidge, Arizona

After a few days off to recuperate, Jutta and I took a day trip down south to visit Casa Grande Ruins National Monument in Coolidge.

Mission San Xavier del Bac in Tucson, Arizona

Followed by a stop at Mission San Xavier del Bac in Tucson further south.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at Titan Missile Museum in Green Valley, Arizona

And then, finally we stopped in at the Titan Missile Museum in Green Valley. I think my mother-in-law wears the hard hat better than I do; she looks like a serious engineer in that thing.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 12

On the other side of Hope, New Mexico driving west

This is the other side of Hope, as in Hope, New Mexico.

U.S. 82 in New Mexico

The people that had once lived here apparently never found Hope and instead might have settled for despair. However, if I try to curb the snarky comment, I can easily appreciate the view of the main window out across the landscape, the quiet they would have enjoyed, and a simplicity I have never seen.

U.S. 82 in New Mexico

We’re on Highway 82, and somewhere nearby, we stopped at Runyan Ranches for some apple cider; we are suckers for roadside treats and incredible views. If you look to the saddle on the left, you can get a hint regarding where our next stop is.

White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

The white sandy beaches of New Mexico!

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Of course, we asked my 67-year-old mother-in-law to get down in the sand with her daughter and make sand angels because isn’t that what everybody does when they visit White Sands National Monument?

White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Still looking for the shoreline.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Caroline is reporting back that she didn’t find it over that hill. Jutta starting to think it looks like a Blizzard from Dairy Queen and is considering tasting it.

White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

We never did find the ocean here but were able to huddle in the shade to avoid burning to a crisp as we did back on the 6th day of our cross-country adventure when we went snorkeling at Bahia Honda State Park in the Florida Keys. We’re not even home yet but are enjoying the fond memories we’ve shared and created.

Rio Grande near Hatch, New Mexico

Holy mackerel, not that one could survive in this trickle of a river, but look at all those illegal aliens crossing the Rio Grande to gain access to America. Okay, so this isn’t one of those points where the river could be crossed, but then again, does this river ever have enough water in it that would make crossing it difficult? In any case, one has to wonder how many “illegals” simply fly in from Europe and fit in with the white majority and are not easily identified by the mass hysteria regarding immigration in America. As you can see from my photos across the United States, there are plenty of lands and a ton of towns that could benefit from more residents and an improving economy; maybe we should open legalization for people who settle in small towns to help revitalize them as their native population moves to larger cities in search of work?

Hatch, New Mexico

These Hatch chiles are more famous than the town they come from. Hatch, New Mexico, is one of the places in America where drivers simply pass right by on their way between Albuquerque and El Paso.

Arrey, New Mexico

Arrey, New Mexico, is the last big town we’ll pass as we head to ever smaller roads that inevitably delay our return home but keep us off the larger highways as much as possible. For your knowledge, we are on Road 187, which parallels Interstate 25, which would have allowed us to drive at roughly 75mph instead of the more languid 40’ish we are barely maintaining.

Hillsboro, New Mexico

Hillsboro, New Mexico, is closed today.

AZ 78 going west in eastern Arizona

But viewing the upturned scalloped rocks of sandstone in Arizona is open.

Morenci Mine near Clifton, Arizona

So is this GIANT open-pit mine in Morenci, Arizona, that I believe I might have posted before. Click HERE and HERE, and from just last month, HERE too.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise returning to Phoenix, Arizona

Driving west into the sunset and the golden light that has drawn so many out this way.

Approaching Phoenix, Arizona at sunset

After 12 days out in America with Caroline and her mom, Jutta, across the south-central half of the country and over 6,000 miles or right at about 10,000 kilometers, we are ending this journey. From my old extensive notes that covered the first week of the trip to those days that I had to improvise and pull from dusty old memories with the help of Caroline, I’m able to put this trip up on our blog. We relish the fact that we not only have dozens of great visual reminders of our travels but also about 13,300 words of accompanying fragments that help fill in the gaps of what would have otherwise been easily forgotten.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 11

Esso Station in Mena, Arkansas

Mena, Arkansas, was where we took our overnight stop, and as you can see, it is shortly after sunrise that we are getting underway. This old Esso gas station opened back in 1928, and after years of decline, it was renovated before the turn of the century and is now a roadside attraction.

Driving west to Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Mena, Arkansas

Mena is located at the foot of Rich Mountain, which is the second-highest peak in Arkansas, standing at 2,681 feet or 817 meters. We were heading up towards Rich Mountain when I took this photo on our way to Queen Wilhelmina State Park.

Driving west to Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Mena, Arkansas

There’s very little time to stop and smell the flowers as we have 1,200 miles to cover between now and tomorrow night, so we end up taking some of our photos right through the windshield of the car while driving up these winding mountain roads. Oh, you can tell this is from the driver’s side? Yeah, I’m guilty of this small bit of unsafe driving.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on Steam Engine #360 at Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Mena, Arkansas

We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get a closer look at an old steam train and then to find out that we could crawl up on it, well that deserved a photo. We are about to leave the Queen Wilhelmina State Park on our race westward.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise entering Oklahoma

Leaving Highway 88 behind and joining Highway 1, also known as the Talimena Scenic Drive as we pass into Oklahoma.

Llamas and alpacas on a grassy hillside with flowers? Well, that adds to the scenic quality of this road in my book.

We won’t be in Oklahoma long as we beeline it to Texas.

This tortoise from Antlers, Oklahoma, as opposed to a tortoise with antlers, is certainly moving a lot slower than we are today, a matter of fact, too slow, and so we pulled over to nudge it to safety. This one, fortunately, didn’t need to be lobbed like a football.

Valley Feed Mill Paris, Texas

Welcome to Texas and the land of long roads.

Paris, Texas

You should know that Wim Wenders has inspired this visit to Paris, Texas. I first learned of Wim Wenders from Dennis Hopper, who told me about working with him on the movie The American Friend. Another bit of nostalgia: it was during these meetings with Dennis Hopper that I also met Harry Dean Stanton, who plays the lead role in the movie Paris, Texas by Wim Wenders. How I came to hang out with Mr. Easy Rider is another story that I’ll publish at some point.

Paris, Texas

Of course, visiting Paris in Texas is a bit of a treat for my mother-in-law as she never heard of another Paris outside of France. The town is pretty quiet today, and looks like its prosperity is on the wane.

Muenster, Texas

From Paris to Muenster, Germany…I mean Texas.

St. Jo, Texas

This required some sleuthing on Google Maps to figure out our driving route and what town this might have been as we were driving from Paris to Muenster and then the time stamp on the photo so I could get an approximation of how many miles we might have driven. Turns out that we are in St. Jo, Texas and Google Street View confirms it, although the town has been renovating the main square since we drove through.

Bull statue at Lonestar Hereford Ranch in Ringgold, Texas

Good thing others take photos and write about missing roadside attractions otherwise, I may have never found out that this bull statue used to stand at Lone Star Hereford Ranch in Ringgold, Texas. It’s sad to see such large lawn ornaments go away; kind of makes you wonder how you retire a 20-foot-tall bull.

Jutta Engelhard outside Henrietta, Texas

If the mother-in-law is falling asleep in the back seat, a surefire way to wake her up is to make a stop at a Dairy Queen. Jutta didn’t know how much she liked “fake” ice cream until she tried a Blizzard, and then every time we passed one, she’d be sure to point out, “There’s another Dairy Queen.” This particular one was in Henrietta, Texas.

West of Wichita Falls, Texas

We are west of Wichita Falls, Texas, as we trek across the Lone Star state.

West of Wichita Falls, Texas

If we didn’t pass cattle and oil pumping operations we might not have known that we really were in Texas.

Old Gas Station in Mabelle, Texas

A far cry from the Esso we visited earlier in the day back in Arkansas. With no one around to ask we had no way of finding out anything about this old gas station that has obviously been closed a good long time.

Edit: Turns out this was in Mabelle, Texas, but has since been torn down. 

This could be somewhere between Lubbock and Plains, Texas, but then again, it could also be between Guthrie and Lubbock.

More friendly horses and two German women in western Texas.

After more than half a day driving across that gargantuan state, we are finally in New Mexico and seeing hints of the Arizona sunsets we are about to re-encounter. From Plains, Texas, we drove to Lovington, New Mexico, on our way to Artesia, New Mexico, where we’ll spend the night in some cheap roadside motel.

Though we were in the car the majority of the day we still were able to carve out a great encounter with the countryside of Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and a bit of New Mexico late in the day. Obviously, we stayed off the major highways, and that certainly extended our time on the road, but we managed to drive nearly 800 miles today and, along the way, collect some memorable moments that will now stick with us for the rest of our lives.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 10

This is not getting any easier. The deal is that for the past couple of days, these blog entries are not coming from notes such as the extensive highly detailed notes that accompanied the first week of our road trip. Instead, I’m trying to pull details from a journey we made 15 years ago. At times Caroline lends a hand as her superior memory, while not infallible, is often carrying details I had long forgotten. What I can tell you about this photo is that the horse and pasture yummies are all from Tennessee, and the reason I know that is from the time stamp on the photos and that the next photo shows us crossing into another state.

Welcome to Mississippi, where we are just dipping our toe into the state to gain bragging rights to having visited the north and south of the state. Our visit was pretty brief because we had to head back up to Tennessee and into Memphis specifically.

Not knowing if we’d ever visit Memphis again, we had to take this opportunity to visit Graceland, home of Elvis Presley and his final resting place.

For my mother-in-law, this isn’t exactly her idea of a great place to visit as she never developed a fondness for kitsch, nor was she a big fan of Elvis. As for me, this is an interesting look into a kind of prison that had likely become a madhouse. While others will feel a kind of closeness to the King by being among his possessions, all I can see is a place designed with the hope of being able to escape fame. During better times, this may have been a partying refuge where Elvis could entertain and share with friends and family, but then there’s the madness, isolation, and depression that came with his drug abuse and not being able to lead a normal life due to his bizarre fame.

I’d like to imagine that Sister Rosetta Tharpe once dined here with Elvis as he said thank you for teaching him what rock ‘n’ roll was going to be. While Elvis won accolades, fame, and fortune, she will live on in rock history as the pioneer who defined the sound of the electric guitar as an essential part of a music genre that has endured for the better part of 50 years.

Funny that I’ve enjoyed walking in the Acropolis in Athens, Greece, along with my share of castles, palaces, historic homes, and not-so-famous dwellings, but the feeling here is of a kind of anguish I felt at Dachau concentration camp in Germany. I don’t mean to imply that some kind of atrocities occurred here or that Graceland and Dachau should necessarily be compared; it’s just the sense of foreboding heaviness that has me ill at ease walking through this man’s home. Was it ever his intention to allow his refuge to be a museum where even his privacy is sold to those who want just a little more of him?

Once I took the thread of finding despair here at Graceland, the self-guided tour became too oppressive. This wasn’t helped by the fact that everyone was moving around in silence as visitors were given headsets to listen to a narrative about Elvis’s life here. The feeling of isolation was probably appropriate, considering that the majority of Elvis’s time here would have to have been alone. Taking off the headset, I was still feeling awkward, except now creepiness walked with me as the zombies in the house shuffled silently about, robbing the place of chatter and laughter.

The King’s wealth let him buy a lot of things, including a kind of immortality, as he entered the history books, but he couldn’t buy happiness. I was 14 when he died a hero to many who had worshipped a man they had had fond recollections of from the late ’50s to the mid-’60s. To me, he was cool in a “black and white era” kind of way but was a tired, bloated buffoon as I was busy worshipping the throne of Johnny Rotten and the Sex Pistols. All these years later, I can’t help but feel sorry for Elvis and the majority of others who have found fame in America, the double-edged sword where money carves away privacy, leading to megalomania or deep depression.

Hot Springs National Park in Arkansas is our next stop. Water, water, everywhere, nor any drop to bath in. While Bathhouse Row is historically awesome and architecturally beautiful, the baths are long closed as the age of therapeutic mineral baths gave way to shock therapy. Just kidding about one replacing the other, but the fact remains that public baths have fallen out of favor, so we won’t be doing any restorative swimming this fine day.

It’s pretty here in Arkansas. I don’t know what I expected, but this is beating those expectations. Okay, I know what was on my mind, more of Deliverance and squealing pigs. It’s sad this impression of the Southern United States as being one of backward, intellectually handicapped people that have been stereotyped ad infinitum during my lifetime. The idea that a bunch of “Gomer’s” lives down here is not my creation or sole interpretation; it is an image played across America millions of times a year. Why is this? Because the majority is hostile to anything less than total conformity, and those who control cultural hegemony are quick to label those that they find to be different. To be different is to be hated, and that’s just the way it is.

Good thing trees are harmonious and carefree without time to hate on others or choose to avoid certain neighborhoods due to prejudice. Instead, they grace our landscape, shade us, help produce oxygen, house us, warm us, and only on rare occasions try to kill us. For the most part, they offer us a beautiful backdrop and a place to carve our names to demonstrate that we will forever love someone.

Flowers, on the other hand, offer no permanence to carve a message upon, though they, too, indulge us by provoking our thoughts of love and romance.

A garden gnome riding a snail? Whoa, this is the most perfect thing we will EVER buy in Arkansas and it is coming home with us. I know what you are probably thinking, “Hey, is that symbolic of you riding the snail, John?” I’ll just offer you a sly grin for my answer.

Horses in lush pastures are nothing but love and are effectively the sunset and bookend for this day in Mississippi, Tennessee, and Arkansas (pronounced Arkansaw).