Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Leaving Las Cruces, New Mexico at dawn

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; the bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Up early Saturday morning for the 188-mile (304km) drive that passes through Texas and back into New Mexico.

Ruin in New Mexico

Welcome to Salt Flat, Texas. This is about all that’s left.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park in New Mexico

Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We reached Carlsbad Caverns quickly enough, and like Jutta’s and my trip here a week ago, a single bat was on the wall to greet us as we entered its domain.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We hoped to enter the cave through the Natural Entrance, which can’t be a given and depends on if my mother-in-law feels she has the stamina. Fortunately for us today, this is how we entered the cave.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Having just photographed the cave a week prior, I wasn’t sure if I would find any new angles to share, but here goes.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

While the cave system feels huge, it also feels rather compact as the paved walkway twists and turns so much that you never really know where you are.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

The trail is 1.25 miles long with an elevation gain or loss of 750 feet, though somehow it doesn’t feel like that at all, probably because your senses are tuned to taking in as much as possible.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

While this cave is astonishing, there’s much gone and broken as when it was first discovered; people didn’t know anything at all about the fragility, age, or health of an ecosystem that might be still evolving in this now mostly dead cave. Of course, we wouldn’t be able to enjoy it quite the same without the great lighting and pathways, but it sure would have been great to see and hear the cave while water was still actively forming these ribbons, stalagmites, stalactites, and other formations that boggle the mind.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Like organic creatures, these formations could have been considered lungs, and if you’d told me that, I might have believed you.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After descending about halfway, we detoured from the Big Room so we could make our reservations for the King’s Palace Tour at 3:00 p.m. Finishing the King’s Palace, we re-entered the Big Room to finish the trail we skipped earlier.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

What photos came from the main cave area or the King’s Palace are lost to time; suffice it to say that they are all from Carlsbad Caverns.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just stop and think about this: all of this rock used to be a solid structure until groundwater dripped through the earth, carving out the limestone.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But as where rivers scrape clean the surfaces they run over, these waters leach minerals carrying them along to form what we see here today.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Somewhere in our vicinity is the Lechuguilla Cave system, which is still very much alive but it’s off-limits to all but scientists and park personnel.

John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Jutta Engelhardt at the bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

With barely enough time to get good seats at the Natural Entrance amphitheater, our explorations ended with us watching the Bat Flight  – more than 350,000 bats making their way out of the cave’s Natural Entrance tornado-style for a night of bug munching.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Afterward, we felt like munching on something as well and headed to Carlsbad for dinner at Chili’s, one of the few eateries still open at 9.30 PM.

Steins Ghost Town in New Mexico – Day 5

Jutta in Steins Mercantile part of the Steins Ghost town in New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included one photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

My mother-in-law standing under the dollar bill we stapled under the shelf. In March, I stapled another dollar there when my grandfather Herbert and aunt Eleanor and I passed through on the way to Florida. There is also a bill on the left of the picture that Caroline and I stapled on the wall when we visited Steins in November 2000 on our way back home across the United States.

Somewhere in Arizona

Today, we found our way back to Phoenix through a very hot desert.

Rollover accident along the highway in Arizona

Well, that just sucks, a rollover accident where the roof of the SUV had to be cut off; we can only hope that everyone was okay. And that is the end of our short 5-day mother-in-law/son-in-law super drive.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park – Day 4

Jutta Engelhardt in Roswell, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Wow, I was wrong about where we were going to be last night! We ended up at the Sands Motel in Portales, New Mexico. From there, it was only 90 miles over to the Nuthin Fancy Cafe in Roswell, New Mexico, for breakfast. If you think my mother-in-law had any interest in visiting the world-famous UFO Museum and Research Center, you’d be nuts; this lady came out of having survived World War II in Germany and could give 2 cents of concern about some crazy idea that a UFO landed nearby. Yeah, I thought the same thing, “Your loss old lady.”

Jutta Engelhardt at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We made our way to Carlsbad Caverns National Park instead because in America’s natural wonders, Jutta has a big interest.

Oh, look, it’s the Cave Door Greeter, kind of like the human equivalent at Walmart or Costco.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After selling my mother-in-law on how great the slow trail through the Natural Entrance to the Big Room is, she agreed to go for a little walk.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Caroline and I have already visited Carlsbad Caverns on three previous visits in 1998, 1999, and 2002; I hadn’t anticipated that I’d still be able to appreciate it as much as I am.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There’s one thing missing as Jutta and I make our way into the cave: the chatter of her and Caroline nattering on in German about what they are looking at.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are eight more images from inside the cave following this one; you can rest assured that I feel like deleting all of them and cutting to the juicy bits that will follow later in the evening.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But I love these photos, even if they are only 8 megapixels each.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

These contrasting colors and various rock types, many of them coated in the frozen minerals leached out of the surrounding earth, make for striking images and are on a scale that makes one feel like the puny little human one is.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are three other visitable caves nearby, including Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Slaughter Canyon Cave, that we’ve yet to visit. I think we need to better plan our spontaneous trips.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just imagine what these might have looked like when water was flowing over them. Over at nearby Lechuguilla Cave, one might see it (if they are a scientist and can wait years for permission after convincing the park service that their research is worthy and they have the requisite skills for serious caving).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Of course, one could visit Kartchner Caverns in Benson, Arizona, to see a living cave system, but with their no-photography rules I fail to understand the attraction fully. I need photos, or we were never there.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We actually have been to Kartchner because when I bought tickets they didn’t tell me ahead of time that photography wasn’t allowed. I can’t even remember what I saw as my jaw was clenched down so tightly that it apparently obscured my vision and erased my memory. Now consider this view of yet another psychedelic chamber: I know I was here, right here at the spot where this photo was taken, and that makes this place sit in my memories for years, and if ever I need a reminder, I just look back to these days and revel in the experiences we’ve been able to obtain.

[Or could it be that you have no memory of Kartchner because the cave tour itself felt very short, the bats were off lounging in Mexico, and the seeming majority of our visit was spent looking at some light show accompanied by new-agey music? – Caroline]

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

No tripod, handheld, not the best ISO, and still, I managed to snap off three portrait images of this giant cascade to stitch into a panorama.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Those are soda straw formations and represent the end of our self-guided tour of Carlsbad, well, the caverns anyway; there’s more to come above ground.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

At dusk, you might be so lucky, depending on the time of year, that you too can witness the Bat Flyout. My mother-in-law had one word to describe this phenomenon, “Sagenhaft,” which translates to fabulous or amazing.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

Sadly, the bats missed this cockroach, probably because it and a bevy of its friends were camping out in what can easily be described as the worst room ever in any of the cheap motels we’ve sunk to staying in.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This one, though, will not be stayed in. It took everything in my power to remain in this room to take these photos.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

So disgusting it was I didn’t even bother to haggle about a refund; I simply wanted my mother-in-law and me to put as many miles between us and this shithole as quickly as possible. Sadly, this was the only motel in Las Cruces that had availability, which meant that though it was approaching midnight, we’d have to tough it out for another hour until we reached Deming, New Mexico, with fingers crossed we’d find a room

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

While it might be difficult to make out, I believe this is the outline of a dead body and the single greatest contributing factor as to why this room smells something worse than hell.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

I’m still trying to figure out what happened to the curtains.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This was that place of nope, the Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Seriously, nothing compares to this in all of our travels.

Pioneer Cafe in Palisade, Nebraska – Day 3

Out in the flat part of Nebraska

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

This was the real reason for bringing my mother-in-law to the middle of America: the Great Plains.

Wheat in Nebraska

Golden waves of grain, living up to the American vision of things being beautiful and bountiful.

Abandoned farm vehicle in Nebraska

A spry 80-year-old widowed farmer feeding her cows crawled up over a nearby fence to chat with us and talk to us about her life out this way. She also told us about her favorite cafe not too far off.

Entering Palisade, Nebraska

That little old lady pointed us to Palisade and just over the railroad tracks on Main Street for breakfast. Love them grain silos.

At the Pioneer Cafe in Palisade, Nebraska with Jutta Engelhardt

We had a great breakfast at the Pioneer Cafe in Palisade, Nebraska. Ashley, the girl with the yellow shirt, was in training as this was her first day, and we were her first customers. The ladies at the Pioneer Cafe left a great impression on my mother-in-law, who thoroughly enjoyed their hospitality. If ever you find yourself near Palisade, Nebraska, you should stop in at 104 Main St for some great food, great service, and incredibly low prices.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Kansas Stateline

Kansas, you have the best Stateline sign for taking photos of people with the sunflower crowning them.

Grain silos in Monument, Kansas

Traveling on Kansas Highway 25 out in the middle of nowhere, we make a very short detour east as I see a capital specimen of a grain silo with an invitation to drop into the El Ranchito Mexican Cafe.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise in Moscow, Kansas

Caroline and I passed through here on our very first cross-country trip just five years before this.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Oklahoma Stateline

In keeping with the souvenir hunt of photos of my mother-in-law in front of as many Stateline signs as I can capture, I present Jutta Engelhardt visiting Oklahoma.

Jutta Engelhardt driving in Oklahoma with John Wise

The look on my face is explained by the fact that this is the first time Jutta has driven a car in more than 20 years. After some practice, I let her drive all the way across the panhandle of Oklahoma from the Kansas border to Texas. Aside from my hamming it up for the camera, my mother-in-law just loved this opportunity.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Texas Stateline

Back on terra firma, Jutta had to touch something solid and unmoving: Hello, Texas.

John Wise in Dumas, Texas

This selfie was taken for Caroline because while some might pronounce this in the French style as “Doo-maa,” Texas pronounces it “Dew-mus,” and of course, I go for “Dumb-ass.”

Jutta Engelhardt and a turtle in Texas

Saving turtles in Texas, as that’s what one does when barreling down the highway. Next stop: still somewhere in Texas because it’s a really big state.

Nebraska The Good Life – Day 2

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at the Wyoming Stateline

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

After our night in Longmont, Colorado, Jutta and I got on Interstate 25 as we had many miles to cover today and, while we could have stayed in Wyoming until we reached our ultimate destination, why not dip into another state for bragging rights about how many of these American states could be visited in a quick 5-day mother-in-law/son-in-law road trip.

In front of the Welcome to Nebraska State sign celebrating the Good Life with Jutta Engelhardt

Out of Wyoming and into Nebraska. While this is one of my favorite photos, as I never in my wildest dreams thought I’d get her to “dance …the good life,” there’s one coming tomorrow that will forever stay with me.

On the road in Nebraska

Ah, the Great Plains looking great.

On the road in Nebraska

What, there are trees out here?

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at Agate Fossil Beds National Monument in Harrison, Nebraska

I don’t know what face of excitement Jutta has on, but mine was about bringing a fossil to the Agate Fossil Beds in Harrison, Nebraska.

The Lakota Winter Count at the James H. Cook exhibit Agate Fossil Beds in Nebraska

This is the Lakota Winter Count at the James H. Cook exhibit here at the National Monument.

Fort Robinson State Park near Crawford, Nebraska

Still traveling north, we stopped in for a brief visit at the Fort Robinson State Park near Crawford, Nebraska.

Big horn steer in Nebraska

Are you lost? I thought these belonged in Texas.

Jutta Engelhardt at the South Dakota Stateline

Hmm, Great Faces, Great Places. Could this be a clue about our destination on this roughly 2,500-mile roundtrip?

Old farm tools roadside in South Dakota

I seem to have a fascination with old farm tools, broken-down homes, and stupidly long and brutal drives as far away as I can go.

Jutta Engelhardt at Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota

We have time to pass through the Wind Cave National Park but no time to stop; plus, Caroline should be along for the first visit to a national park we’ve not yet been to.

Prairie Dog at Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota

Ooh, wildlife and Wind Cave.

Bison at Custer State Park in South Dakota

Nope, this is not at Wind Cave National Park; we are now driving through Custer State Park with these bison following us. Just kidding.

Custer State Park in South Dakota

I just love these roads through Custer State Park.

Custer State Park in South Dakota

Enchanting is how one should describe the corkscrew turns and old wood bridges that pass through.

Mount Rushmore in South Dakota

I don’t believe anyone needs to be told that this is Mount Rushmore. Well, my mother-in-law has now seen it with her own eyes.

God rays in South Dakota

Time to head south as we have a long drive home that will likely involve some detours.

Longhorn Saloon in Scenic, South Dakota

Check out the inebriated celebrants in front of the Longhorn Saloon that closed about five years after we drove through.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Nebraska Stateline

No dancing late in the day, huh?