My Valentine – NOT!

Jutta Engelhardt sharing a iDeclair dessert at Claim Jumpers in Phoenix, Arizona

This is my mother-in-law, not my valentine. My valentine is sitting next to her mom out of the photo. This will be the last photo this year of Jutta, because, after 67 days of vacation with us, she is heading back to Frankfurt this Friday. During her stay with us, my mother-in-law walked in the Pacific surf on a blue sky, warm Christmas day in Santa Barbara, on New Years’ morning she watched 35,000 geese simultaneously launch into the sky to go feed. January 12th, she celebrated our 13th wedding anniversary in San Francisco and then a week later we hiked the snowy rim of the Grand Canyon. Then it was off to Los Angeles and Santa Barbara again before taking in a weekend in Death Valley. In between, Jutta helped me make homemade mozzarella, pickles, granola, and quite a few home-cooked meals. She missed most of the dreadful gray Frankfurt winter but had her fair share of cold weather in New Mexico and even here in Phoenix which came as a surprise to her. After so many days with the old lady, it is time for her to go, but we will still miss her when she finally does return home.

Wyld Men

My mother-in-law with one of the Wyld Men at the Renaissance Festival in Arizona

This will surely be one of my favorite all-time photos of my mother-in-law. Following the Wyld Men show at today’s Renaissance Festival, a muddy Dr. Cranius Lunch gives Jutta a big wet and loving hug. At the Festival, the Wyld Men are our favorite show of gut-busting laughter. A crowd-pleaser for years has been the  Ded Bob show, you owe it to yourself to catch a performance. The Tortuga Twins are better than ever and the Hey Nunnie Nunnie show has been growing on me. First stop this year, like all other years, was at the Turkey Leg stand – yum. We also enjoyed the King’s nuts which were warm and sweet, and the Lusty Wench chocolate-covered strawberries were perky as ever.

Salt Sausages

On the salt flat in Death Valley National Park at sunrise

Up before sunrise so we could take a long walk out on the salt flat near Badwater (elevation: 282 feet / 85.5 meters below sea level) and wouldn’t you know it, it takes forever for the sun to reach us.

On the salt flat in Death Valley National Park at sunrise

We almost gave up after having walked out approximately a mile and a half (2.4km) and waiting for more than a half-hour for the sun to peek over the mountains.

On the salt flat in Death Valley National Park at sunrise

Luckily, we held our ground because watching the shadow brighten and give way to sunlight was spectacular. The bluish salt quickly turns golden for a moment before blazing white.

Death Valley National Park in California

Out on the salty Death Valley floor, we found areas where the ground buckles and small stalagmites grow in the cracks; insects that didn’t leave before the last water evaporated are dried into fragile shells, and miniature forests comprised of salt crystals, hair-thin filaments, and ceramic-like chunks that sound of glass as they clink together.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the salt flat in Death Valley National Park at sunrise

Daybreak here is as amazing as any sunrise at the Grand Canyon.

Death Valley National Park in California

Heading up Mustard Canyon Drive to visit a place in the park we’ve not visited previously, I think.

Death Valley National Park in California

The Harmony Borax Works lay in ruins but are well worth the drive up the narrow road.

Amargosa Valley, Nevada

Trying to maximize daylight hours during the shortened days of winter, we pushed Jutta along so we could make one more stop along the way before heading home. And don’t be mistaken; I’m not implying this giant cow is my mother-in-law.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge in Amargosa Valley, Nevada

Looking into the clear waters that are emerging from this spring at the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge in Amargosa Valley, Nevada.

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge in Amargosa Valley, Nevada

Our visit will be short as we have quite a few miles left before pulling into Phoenix this evening.

Death Valley

Shoshone Inn in Shoshone, California

We took a night here at the Shoshone Inn in Shoshone, California, outside of Death Valley, because lodging in the park was just way too expensive; this won’t be the last time we stay here either.

Crowbar Cafe in Shoshone, California

Breakfast at the Crowbar Cafe because when you are going to Death Valley, what sounds better than eating at the Crowbar?

Caroline Wise, John Wise, and Jutta Engelhardt at Death Valley National Park in California

Entering the park.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Death Valley National Park in California

It took Caroline and me until this, our fifth visit to Death Valley National Park in California, to make our way up the mountain to Dante’s View. The overlook from Dante’s View peers down 5,000 feet (1.52km) to the valley floor, where a moonscape-like surface has taken over. The salt from an ancient sea on the valley floor takes on different shapes and patterns and, when viewed up close, reveals a variety of crystalline formations such as those found at the Devils Golf Course.

*This claim of being our 5th trip might be wrong as on subsequent reading of this years later, I can only account for three previous visits, which would make this our 4th time at Death Valley.

Death Valley National Park in California

The salt from an ancient sea on the valley floor takes on different shapes and patterns and, when viewed up close, reveals a variety of crystalline formations such as those found at the Devils Golf Course.

Death Valley National Park in California

The terrain here is not a homogenous desert landscape; it seems that everywhere you look, you see something unexpected.

Death Valley National Park in California

Contrast Valley might be another name for this National Park.

Death Valley National Park in California

And though it’s called Death Valley, it’s brimming with life.

Death Valley National Park in California

And suddenly, another day comes to an end.

The Grand Canyon

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We all go brrrr…but wouldn’t miss sunrise for all the hot chocolate in the world.

El Tovar at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Our wonderful lodging arrangement, which is also the same place Caroline and I stayed 13 years ago for our unorthodox honeymoon.

Grand Canyon, Arizona

It’s difficult not to stop every 50 feet in this park and take another photo when such spectacular shadows are chasing over the canyon.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at Hermits Rest Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

It’s obviously warming up as we are about to visit Hermits Rest.

Hermits Rest Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Being early anywhere has often afforded us the opportunity to take photos with no one else cluttering them. The interior of Hermits Rest.

Watchtower at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

If you’ve been to the Grand Canyon before, you might guess by this photo here that we are heading east, which might also imply we’ll be heading to the exit soon. First though, a stop at the Watchtower.

Watchtower at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

What a beautiful space.

Inside the Desert View Watchtower at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Looking down into the interior of the Mary Colter-designed Watchtower at Desert View.

Watchtower at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

I may be looking back at where we came from, but we are heading up as there’s a view from above I need to share.

Grand Canyon, Arizona

Look to the left, and you might be able to see the turquoise ribbon of the Colorado River slicing through the canyon, as seen from atop the Watchtower.

Watchtower at Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

We take our leave of the Grand Canyon for this visit of my mother-in-law, but I’m sure we’ll be back.

Snowy Arizona

A snowy icey Interstate 17 on the way to Flagstaff, Arizona

Most people, when they talk or hear of Arizona, immediately think desert. Well, not too far north of Phoenix, the elevation starts to climb fast, and today, on Interstate 17, on our way to the Grand Canyon, the road is icy with snow accumulating under cold gray skies. Our original plans had us leaving Friday afternoon for dinner in Sedona with an overnight about 25 miles (40km) south of the canyon rim, but poor weather kept us at home until first thing this morning. Shortly before arriving at the Grand Canyon, the clouds parted, offering up blue skies with a wonderous snow-dusted canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park in Winter

This was our first view of the Grand Canyon here at Mather Point. The drive up was treacherous, but the effort was worth all of the grandeur the canyon displays on these rare days when a visitor can witness the snow-dusted canyon walls under blue skies. We were well bundled up with warm clothes as the temperature was a chilly 35 degrees (2 Celsius) day and 11 degrees (-12 Celsius) overnight. The world’s greatest hot chocolate at the El Tovar Hotel and Restaurant also works wonders to help keep us warm.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Jutta was prepared for this weather as Caroline and I suffered: it’s cold out here.

Grand Canyon National Park in Winter

But the views are spectacular enough that it’s worth enduring a bit of discomfort.

Grand Canyon National Park in Winter

Just a bunch of wow.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Much to my surprise, had you told me those first years I knew her that Jutta is a great sport and loves to laugh, I’d have never believed you.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

I think it was Caroline’s intention to encase her mom in snow, but the old lady wiggled about too much, and getting the dry, cold snow to stick was problematic – wet snow might work better the next time. Of course, my idea wasn’t to turn her into a snowwoman but to simply nudge her off the canyon rim; who would have assumed that she did anything but slip? Well, she’s alive and kicking, so it may be that my best opportunity to “off” the mother-in-law has come and gone.