A Sunday Where Little Happens

Clock from Haus Engelhardt Frankfurt, Germany

Late to rise, late breakfast, late shower, late to writing, late to go outside. Try as we might to fill every day with an abundance of activities so we don’t waste a moment in Germany, it’s inevitable that we hit a wall and need a slow day. After 19 days, including our flight here, the day where little happens just shows itself, and in this case, it’s a Sunday just 48 hours before we head back to the United States.

Even sitting down to write something or other feels like a chore I’m not ready to confront. And so I distract myself with a return to my neglected social media, not that I ever really do much posting there but it allows me to catch up with various subjects of interest. While the smell of plum cake that Klaus is baking wafts in from the kitchen, I bring up some newly released music from Andrew Ostler titled “Crossing The Line.” That plum cake will travel with us to be shared between Jutta, Stephanie, Katharina, Klaus, Caroline, and me later today, but for now, I sit here lazily, hoping something will happen without making an effort.

I’m getting hungry, but the effort to go find something feels like a task too big. There’s a pizza place within walking distance, but I have to wonder who offers delivery to this area. After looking at the limited choices and considering that many places close at 2:00 before reopening at 5:00, the window of opportunity is diminishing. With maximum waffle unfolding from my inner-Schweinehund, a savior appears in the form of a loving wife and a caring sister-in-law who are willing to collect whatever it is my heart desires. It’s settled, rigatoni carbonara from that pizza place, and I get to sit in the same chair I’ve been planted in for the better part of 6 hours, aside from shower and toilet obligations to care for my body and the people around me.

Now, with the order in and the ladies out for picking up lunch, I’m again presented with a blank slate of brain. Maybe some other music will help, so I turn to Bandcamp and find Robert Aiki Aubrey Lowe’s “Candyman” score, but before things really get underway, food is already here. Sweet relief from a minor hunger and absolving myself of the need to write as my right hand will be busy with a fork and who can type with one hand?

As with all things, this half-day of doing a lot of nothing is about to come to an end. We are all about to head into the center of Frankfurt to meet up with Jutta for a walk over to the river, where we’ll sit down to some plum cake and coffee. This will require a bit of effort on my part as I’ve still not moved from my chair since noon, and we are on the approach of 2:30. So, time to close the tabs to the news stories I was catching up on, finally put on some socks, and maybe (as if there was a choice) grab my camera and join the others to take the U-Bahn into town. Maybe I can have a brief nap on the train to add to my collection of having done little this Sunday? Oh, what is this luxury? Others are running late, giving me another 20 minutes of not doing nothing other than tagging photos here on the blog while maintaining my place on the thrown of the dining table.

Caroline Wise and Stephanie E. in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s already after 3:00 as we move down the train tracks with our basket in tow, heading to Granny’s house. The only thing missing is a wolf who we heard was busy blowing some house down elsewhere.

Klaus E. and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

The rare site of Katharina as with her away at nearby Darmstadt attending university, she’s typically seriously busy, but today with the chance for the entire family to get together, she carved out time. Good thing she did, as seeing her and her dad smile so nicely together is a treat.

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

And here comes Jutta…

Plum cake Frankfurt style

…joining us for Klaus’s homemade Pflaumenkuchen (plum cake) that he made just today.

Katharina E, Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Stephanie E., and Klaus E. in Frankfurt, Germany

A rare photo these days. Sadly, we don’t have someone else here on a Sunday afternoon we can ask to take a group image, so the four Engelhardts and one Wise are the best I can do.

Caroline Wise and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Katharina might be grinning as she dragged her aunt Caroline into a 20-minute lesson about Pokemon possibly infecting her with an interest, but knowing my wife, I’d guess she’d never find space to fit it in.

Jutta Engelhardt and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Grandmother and granddaughter obviously share the same height genes.

Katharina E, Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Stephanie E., and Klaus E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Our coffee and cake midday get-together is coming to an end. I’m happy we could all be here this afternoon and that this three-week trip to Germany was so focused on family.

Katharina E, Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Stephanie E., and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Which also included me. By the way, does this photo make my arms appear freakishly long?

Later, Klaus, Stephanie, Caroline, and I walked a mile over to a nearby favorite restaurant that put a blemish on our enthusiasm for the place. I’ll leave it unnamed until we get to visit on a date in the future when we’ll be hoping that they were only having a bad night.

All-in-all this was a day of rest where very little happened.

Going Everywhere To Get Nowhere

Sunrise over Frankfurt, Germany

Up early with Caroline, who’s going to Hannover with Klaus regarding some family matters. As the three of us head to the Zeilweg U-Bahn stop, the narrow passage we pass through snags me and tears my shirt at the shoulder. With no time to go change, I’m hoping the small one-inch (2 cm) slice won’t be too noticeable. On with the show.

Instead of staying in Frankfurt and wandering streets I’m already so familiar with, I’ll head somewhere I’ve never been before.  Top of the list was Marburg, north of here. With the sun rising over the countryside, I’m on a regional train speeding along for the one-hour trip to this mystery city.

Sunrise over Frankfurt, Germany

Welcome golden sun, spreading warmth and great light upon this adventure into the unknown. My exploration of virgin ground and venturing into the furthest reaches of the German countryside is reminiscent of my solo trip just a few months ago. I suppose the harkening back to my early days in Deutschland in the mid-1980s when this was a common occurrence draws the romantic out of me as I reach out across time to encounter my younger self.

Marburg Hauptbahnhof, Germany

It’s shortly after 8:00 when I arrive, excited at what I’ll find. The first photo is of the train station, as the architecture of these places often stands out. As is always the case, I take a ton of photos with none guaranteed to ever show up here on the blog, but it’s good to remain in the habit of starting early to photograph things else I might just go along lost in the moment, before realizing I should have been keeping a visual record.

Lahn River in Marburg, Germany

I walk under an overpass that looks vaguely familiar until I start to pass over the Lahn River, which appears seriously familiar. Looking down the street and considering the castle on the mountain and the church spires I glimpsed, I start to nervously wonder, asking myself, “Have I been here before?” I pull out my phone, go to www.johnwise.com and search “Marburg.” Sweet Jesus, Mother of God, have you thrown a bucket of stupidity upon me? I was just here on May 30th, my sixth day in Germany just 14 weeks ago, and I already forgot that? Hello, old age, and welcome to a dozen new gray hairs as I earn them for my senior moment and the crushing defeat of romanticism.

Waiting in Marburg, Germany

Well, Marburg is NOT a central location to go ANYWHERE else. I studied and studied the departure schedule but came up blank, so with my gray mini-ponytail between my legs I buy a return ticket to Frankfurt that leaves momentarily. I race to the track, my train is there, and I start to run as it leaves in a minute at 8:48. At 8:56, still sitting in the station with nobody but me boarded, I’m starting to have my doubts if we are ever leaving. A conductor gets on the train, and I ask him about leaving for Frankfurt; he informs me that the printed schedule in the lobby is WRONG and my train left from track 4, not 1A. The train I’m on goes to godforsaken Giessen, which I swore I’d never visit again; either I stay on this or wait for the next train that runs later. I’m heading to Giessen because I’m aiming to be punished for my sins, whatever they may have been to this point in my life, and they are plenty.

Right on time for this train, we are leaving the station at 9:19, and now awake for four hours, I’ve effectively been nowhere, but I have had ample time to get some writing done. Once in Giessen, I’ll check their train plan and see if I can’t land somewhere other than Frankfurt on this adventure that I’m afraid is taking me everywhere except for where I think I want to go.

Train Station in Germany

Damn, Caroline is already in Hannover (sans her sweater that is now traveling to new destinations on its own), and I’m still on the train to Giessen, stopping at every little Dorf and village along the way. Please, universe, don’t make me wait in the town that shall no longer be named for any longer than I must be there, please.

Giessen Train Station in Germany

There wasn’t a moment to lose after pulling into the place as in just 2 minutes; a train was leaving for Frankfurt from an adjacent track. I ran downstairs, over one platform, and back upstairs, fully masked, mind you, only to find out that the train was running late. With about 5 minutes before I could make my escape, there was no time to investigate possibilities for traveling to other destinations, so Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof it is. We’ll arrive about 3.5 hours after I started my trip nowhere and back, but on the bright side, I’ve written nearly 2,000 words.

Hauptbahnhof Frankfurt, Germany

I was in the Hauptbahnhof only long enough to visit the Water Closet (WC = toilet) and jump on an ICE train to Mannheim. This will push me into running late to meet with Jutta, so I’ll have to dip into town, grab a quick photo or two, eat something, and get back to Frankfurt.

Blurry image from train in Germany

We’re zipping across the landscape, reaching escape velocities on a bullet train purported to reach speeds in excess of multiples of thousands of miles per hour, or so it’s claimed.

Mannheim Hauptbahnhof, Germany

Wow, only five hours to get to a city 90 minutes away by car; I could have driven to Amsterdam in the same time.

Mannheim, Germany

I asked for directions to Altstadt (Old Town) and was looked at as though I were strange. I was informed that the Wasserturm was straight ahead, and to the left was the Innenstadt (Inner City).

Mannheim, Germany

The Wasserturm is the most iconic landmark here in Mannheim, according to some things I read on the first entry Google delivered. I went with it and headed that way. I can’t find a historic area or a cathedral, so I’ll have to make do with fountains and a water tower.

Mannheim, Germany

As far as I can tell, you have now shared with me the entirety of the historic area of Mannheim. Maybe if I’d arrived at, say, 8:30 this morning, the extra time in town would have shown me more, or is this all there is?

Mannheim, Germany

From the Wasserturm, you are now looking towards Innenstadt.

Mannheim, Germany

I’m not altogether certain if those are chest muscles out front or some protruding boobies on this lioness human hybrid.

Mannheim, Germany

Through the shopping area where the only difference between this and Zeil in Frankfurt is that trams run right through the middle of the district. I went looking for a restaurant serving something regional to Mannheim, but before I got there, I took inspiration from the silent vote of popularity by a dozen people standing in line at a shop making sandwiches. A giant slab of pork with a heart-stopping layer of crispy fat atop it slathered with mustard pressed all my buttons…

Mannheim, Germany

…almost. I’d spotted the spaghetti eis on my way up the street, and as I returned, the need for water and coffee demanded I make the transaction worth the while of the cafe letting me sit at one of their tables. I think I’ve found the trifecta: pork fat, ice cream, caffeine, and while my arteries might not be their happiest today, my quest for an experience is certainly being satisfied.

In a few minutes, I’ll pack up, use the WC on-premises, and return to the Mannheim Hauptbahnhof for my 50-minute trip back to Frankfurt. Once there, I go straight to Jutta until her dinner gets underway, and I return to the main train station once more today to meet Caroline and Klaus, who’ll be returning around 6:00. From there, we’ll be off to dinner.

Outside the train window, Germany

The 14:05 train I had planned on can leave without me as I’m jumping on the regional train that leaves right now. I’ll buy the ticket on board because buying tickets is easy until it’s not. What the bloody hell is this stupid RMV app doing to me? The person checking tickets is coming up behind me, and I can’t get my credit card or PayPal to make the transaction. The app reports, “Something went wrong, try again.” When it’s my turn to show my ticket, I explain what’s happening, and the guy said, “Try again, I’ll return.” It just wouldn’t take, so I went to the Deutsche Bahn app and bought a ticket leaving in 15 minutes via an Inner-City Express train for the same price. When the man returned, I explained the situation in German, mind you, and showed him the error message. He said it wasn’t a problem and that I was good to go.

Train stop in Germany

What I hadn’t realized was that this train is getting into Frankfurt nearly 30 minutes later than the ICE as we pass through Worms, Mainz, Frankfurt-Hofheim, and Frankfurt-Höchst. I need a short break as before returning to this post, I finished the draft of “A Walk Around Frankfurt,” and as soon as this train pulls into the Hauptbahnhof, I’ll jump a subway to Römer for a quick two-hour visit with my mother-in-law Jutta.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

The lady on the left, yeah, you know her by now, she’s wearing the look of snark. I told her about my futile trip north, and instead of offering sympathy, she asked how it felt to have an encounter with a forgetful mind that she lives with every day. The implication felt like she was reading the tea leaves of my story ahead, suggesting I may one day walk in her shoes.

Jutta and I sat by the Main River as we have so many other times this year enjoying a Coke for her and mineral water for me. I’ll never be able to share how many times she and I have laughed together as it’s so often no one could keep count. Our shared time today is brief, with only a couple of hours spent here on the river. She’s got dinner at 6:00 waiting for her, and I’m going over to the Hauptbahnhof to meet Caroline and Klaus, who are due shortly afterward.

Frankfurt, Germany

Rental bikes, like rental scooters, are scattered everywhere across this city. Sometimes, I come across abandoned rentals in the strangest of places and have to wonder, how does the company overseeing these dispersed vehicles claim them out in the middle of bridges, on forest paths, and, on occasion, in waterways?

Frankfurt, Germany

As I was approaching track 8, Caroline and Klaus were right there with the rest of their fellow passengers walking away from their train that had just pulled in. We walked up Kaiserstrasse and then over to Munchener Strasse for some Turkish eats at Kebab Han. Stephanie didn’t join us, as with Caroline and Klaus traveling to Hannover. me wanting to live a big new adventure before visiting Jutta, Steph made plans to meet with a friend she’s not seen in quite a while and was still out with her.

Frankfurt, Germany

I count on my readers and myself, having poor memories in remembering every detail I’ve ever posted here as this is not the first time this highrise has shown up on these pages. I don’t really have anything to say about it other than we walked past it on our way to Willy-Brandt Platz (formerly known as Theaterplatz), where a U-Bahn would whisk us home so we could get ready for our trip tomorrow that will see us leaving Frankfurt in the wee dark hours of 6:00 in the morning.

Jutta Zeit

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

So many days on vacation and so many experiences potentially lost to the fog of being busy all the time. But here I am to write these posts letting us account for each day covering the important moments. Maybe, like Jutta, we all suffer from a kind of dementia where the new information coming in takes precedence as we try to figure out how to deal with the new day. If yesterday was packed with things relatively mundane, why put importance on them and elevate them into long-term memory? But when we can return to even a fragment of the minutiae, it often happens that a flood of impressions arrives with the hint. We’ve seen with Jutta how an old photograph or piece of music aloft forgotten memories, how will this work when blogs with hundreds or thousands of photographs along with the text accompanying them can bring context and intense reminders to people?

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Our lunches with Jutta are never brief affairs, as we typically end up spending between two and three hours camping out at our table. This being Germany, nobody cares how long a customer occupies their place in the restaurant as it doesn’t affect a tip when everyone is earning an hourly wage that isn’t dependent on our largess. There are differences in service for sure, but one difference I don’t miss over here is the server absolutely ignoring you once you’ve settled your bill. So, we just sit in the sun, take our time, order more water, Coke, or coffee, and enjoy chatting. By the way, the talk rarely takes aim at the weather other than maybe the briefest of observations regarding the current moment. Sports and TV are also off the plate unless the ladies are talking about a documentary or something from the news. We do talk a lot about family, travel, and the people we are watching.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

After three hours on the first course, it’s time for ice cream, more coffee, and mineral water over at a corner Eis Cafe (ice cream parlor). I think we only spent about 90 minutes here before starting the slow walk back to the assisted living center. While Jutta has greater mobility with a walker, she’s still nearly as slow as any sloth or snail, moving nearly imperceptibly, requiring nearly 30 minutes to get her somewhere that it would take anyone else maybe 5 minutes to walk. Writing this feels like an exaggeration, but I’ve made the walk of 100 meters (300 feet) to the Main River and 260 meters (850 feet) to the restaurant we visit so many times that I have a pretty good sense of the average to get between places.

Frankfurt, Germany

And with that, it’s time to make the walk back to the facility, passing this bear we pass nearly every day we’re in Frankfurt.

Frankfurt, Germany

That giant teddy bear has a friend nearby who, weather allowing, is blowing bubbles non-stop.

Frankfurt, Germany

We are dropping off Jutta back in her room, where, in one relatively small room, she’s hanging on to the mementos that bring her joy. From the photobooks I put together of some of her travels to the map of Indigenous peoples across America, including the Navajo rug, she wove herself on one of her many visits. There’s some furniture she cherishes, along with various photos of Stephanie, Klaus, and Katharina, just enough to warm her heart that her family is out there, hopefully doing well.

Frankfurt, Germany

With the portable toilet that’s been ever-present on the right side of the street now gone, I just had to take one more photo of this sight. We walk by so often, and both love how the old-fashioned bridge connects the two sides of government offices that occupy this area.

Frankfurt, Germany

Time for shopping now instead of waiting until the last day as we usually do. The first stop was at Blutsgeschwister for a bag to replace our worn toiletry bag and a new umbrella, both with the same gnome design.

Frankfurt, Germany

Well, this is embarrassing. It’s December 2023, and I’m moving through a bunch of old posts, rechecking them for grammar mistakes and links that have died, when I discovered something wrong with this post. That part of what’s wrong is that from the bag above, there was some missing text, and all of the subsequent photos and text from here down. The photos had been uploaded, meaning that there was text here at one time, but inexplicably, it’s all missing. I searched for cached versions and checked Archive.org, all to no avail. I do know that we were in MyZeil near Hauptwache with Caroline searching for a perfume that was beguiling her as she smelled it on the streets as people walked by.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

I’d know these clothes anywhere; we could only have been shopping at Gudrun Sjödén.

Frankfurt, Germany

The guy who worked here at Red Wing Shoes was incredibly helpful in doing a thorough measuring of Caroline’s feet, both of them. Unfortunately, they didn’t have her size of the Iron Ranger boot in stock and couldn’t have it in before we were to leave Germany, but the service was amazing nonetheless.

Frankfurt, Germany

My memory is thin here, but the photo was likely chosen as I  had something positive to say about the festive nature of this busker ensemble that was getting their groove on here in the main shopping area.

Frankfurt, Germany

No photos of dinner, family, or anything else followed this billboard in the subway advertising cigarettes. While it’s tragic that we apparently lost about six hours of a day on vacation in Germany, in the scheme of things, it’s nothing as our documenting of over a thousand other travel days is a treasure trove of otherwise forgotten moments.

Tante und Nichte

Brot und Freunde Bakery in Frankfurt, Germany

Part 1 of this entry will be published shortly, but for now: here we are on the other side of the same day. Everything began as usual with breakfast; though with Klaus and Stephanie out of town spending some days in Konstanz with a side trip to Zurich, we had to walk over to Brot & Freunde to fetch our morning meal. With this being my first visit to this nearby shop, I was astonished at the variety of Brötchen as in 19 choices not counting pretzel variations. This, from a small shop away from all major shopping areas, is a non-descript tiny place, and this doesn’t even take into account the more than a dozen sweet pastries on offer too! If that weren’t enough, they have an espresso machine to make us hot drinks too, which we need to take advantage of as we don’t know how to operate the coffee machine at home.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

While Caroline’s smile suggests a staged photo, she was editing my entry about the Popel eater (boogers) and was having a laugh at my description and, of course, the use of the word Popel, which is probably the first-ever use here on my blog. We are taking things slow this morning as we’re waiting for our niece (Nichte) to arrive around 11:30. This also turned out to be a good opportunity to do laundry as even we need to stop on occasion in service of the mundane.

Jutta Engelhardt of Frankfurt, Germany

Between things, Caroline spotted a photo album that she was curious about and grabbed it. It turned out to be old photos of Jutta and classmates from the late 1940s to the early 1950s. My mother-in-law, at age 14, can be seen in the top left photo, front row, far left. From that, you might be able to identify her in the other three images.

Jutta Engelhardt of Frankfurt, Germany

As is typical with people with dementia, Jutta was able to identify nearly everybody in these images, including first and last names, without thinking twice. As for me, days later, I have zero recollection of who she mentioned, but I suppose that’s not all that important.

Jutta Engelhardt of Frankfurt, Germany

Here’s Jutta at age 17 in 1952.

Jutta Engelhardt of Frankfurt, Germany

From the 60 or so photos in the album, these were the ones we felt were a good representation to set aside for digital posterity.

Caroline Wise and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Almost perfectly punctual, Katharina arrives to find these two strangers in the place she grew up in. Our niece is living in Darmstadt, where she attends university. Katharina and I had some time together back in June, so I’m leaving the Tante und Nichte (aunt and niece) for a day with each other. You can follow what I did in the blog entry A Walk Around Frankfurt.

Venus Fly Trap in Frankfurt, Germany

Katharina took a quick look at the potted plants in the kitchen and living room and applied water where needed. She clearly inherited Klaus’ green thumbs. Caroline sent this photo of the Venus fly trap to Klaus to assure him that it had survived his absence. The girls watched a fly hovering around the plant and even landing on one of the traps in suspense, but the fly was able to escape, maybe because the plant was not in need of fresh nourishment.

Caroline Wise and Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Shortly thereafter, after looking up the local vegan lunch options, niece and aunt were on the way for their own fresh nourishment at Dominion Food Revolution on Gruneburgweg.

Frankfurt, Germany

Not realizing that the vegan shawarma with hummus would be such a gargantuan portion, Caroline was happy that Katharina’s burger was small enough to allow her to share the dish.

Katharina E. in Frankfurt, Germany

Both took photos of the dishes and enjoyed their conversation in the warm sun. Afterward, dessert was in order.

Frankfurt, Germany

Katharina picked a brownie and Caroline a Middle Eastern pudding with rosewater, coconut, and pistachio crumbles. Since Katharina still had some time before her return train to Darmstadt, they decided to swing by “Oma Jutta” at Lebenshaus for a short visit. Criminally, Caroline missed the opportunity for a selfie of all three, but since my middle name is “forgiveness” (among others), I won’t hold it against her for long. When it was time for Jutta to head over to the dining room for supper, Caroline walked over to Eiserner Steg to meet me and pursue our own dinner plans.

Gott und Wählen

Can’t forget that we’re in a pandemic, though we are thousands of miles from home on vacation as occasionally the explosive numbers and widespread movement of a new variant in America take hold. While trying to avoid current events, people want to talk, and headlines pop up in the subways on animated billboards. So, we’re going home later this month to the breakout of the COVID variant called Mu. Germany will vote on a new chancellor a few days after we leave, and a note or two about Afghanistan made it to our eyes. Enough of that stuff; I only mention it because today I’m opening with this photo of us on the subway that has us in masks. In previous days, I’ve tried to keep masks out of the picture to offer a semblance of normal as it existed before the age of the Pandemic.

Yesterday, I visited St. Leonhard church and learned of the oldest building in the area, St. Justinus church in Frankfurt-Höchst. Ironically, we had just cycled past it the other day on our family bike tour, and I had no idea. As I brought this up with Caroline, she pointed out casually that this had been one of her many “Fun Facts of the Day” at work but hadn’t thought of it until I mentioned it. With some time available this morning, we took the train out to cross this important historical building off our list of places to visit.

Well, that was the plan. Little could we have guessed that a Catholic church would be closed Monday through Thursday due to the pandemic. Maybe we can come out to Höchst on a subsequent visit to see the Saint Justinus church that’s been standing here and in continuous use since 830, and I do mean the year and not 8:30. I posted a photo of the church from the river the other day during our bike ride and I can’t find a better view from where we are now so I snapped this image of Jesus on the Cross at the side of the church where two gentlemen informed us about the closure much to our disappointment.

Nothing left to do but make the best of a poor situation and return to the square where we had lunch the other day (under the blue umbrellas) and grab a bite to eat before going to see Jutta.

Our very German meal at Gasthaus Zum Schwan of pork variations with bratkartoffeln and cabbage was on order. Caroline opted to supplement the food with a hefeweizen.

Though we couldn’t commune with Gott (God) in his house here in Höchst, we could take some time to appreciate the old town.

There’s so much being said here with stickers that go beyond personal brands and veer into politics and social commentary, but with me falling behind in my blogging, I don’t really have time to decipher the sticker about Bolsanaro, Fuck Peter Booth, or FKTN which is not Fukutin a.k.a., a protein-coding gene.

While this distant suburb of Frankfurt has some quaint and historical qualities, there’s something provincial I sense here, making the place unappealing. I should blame this squarely on my own bias as there’s something about the inflection of the working-class Germans and their chain-smoking that gives them the appearance of blunt dullards on the verge of losing their humanity as they slide down the evolutionary ladder.

Caroline most certainly let out a loud groan reading this last sentence, but to ignore Germany’s class awareness is to simply stick one’s head in the sand, just as Germans are apt to do. I’ve written before about how Germans do not vacation in their own country unless they are skiing in the Alps or visiting Sylt up on the Wattenmeer. This, in my summation, is because, in those two locations, Germans will encounter other wealthy Germans, while in nearly all other locations they risk running into those fellow citizens that embarrass them.

Enough of picking at scabs; time to get on the train and return to the big city.

I walked with Caroline over to Lebenshaus, where Jutta lives; they have a nice clean toilet that’s free. From there, the plan was for me to catch up on writing.

As I headed away from the ladies, I ended up going to the coffee shop I knew they’d be visiting so I could surprise my mother-in-law.

And here they come.

We are at Einstein Kaffee on Römer, where mother and daughter are having a slice of Johannisbeeren cake and coffee while I try to focus on the writing. Once the cake was devoured and the last drop of coffee gone, the ladies headed back to Lebenshaus.

A little later, Klaus joined me for a short time, and when Caroline returned from Lebenshaus, they walked off to meet with Stephanie for a rice bowl dinner at a nearby favorite joint while stayed on to finish my writing for the day. A crowd had been developing in the center of the square outside Einstein; it was a political rally held by the Green Party.

People in the cafe were complaining about the size of the crowd and how last year’s Christmas market had been canceled due to expected crowding, and yet, for politics, the authorities are afraid to impose restrictions as they find that their own voices being heard face to face with the electorate is too important. Whatever serves power is allowed; whatever serves the individual is tertiary after power and money. I do not mean this ironically, as with Germany being in the driver’s seat of the Europan economic engine, they better keep the balance of governance in top form if the EU is to survive.

Too Weird

Caroline Wise on train to Cologne, Germany

Dropped Caroline off at the main train station at 6:00 this morning for her visit to Köln. That all went well, but after that, things got too weird. I’d like to share why she went into the area of Cologne (Köln), but it was a secret mission to collect “special” equipment and meet someone who shall remain anonymous. Hi Claudia 🙂

Woman with open stoma in Frankfurt, Germany

The photo should say it all but it wasn’t taken under the best conditions as I wasn’t of my mind (or stomach) as I first passed this person. Coming down the escalator the first thing that grabbed my attention was that a woman was sitting topless at a subway stop. That was nothing compared to what I saw next when she stuck her finger in her stoma and flicked what she cleaned out of it on the ground next to her. I had to look up what that technical name was, as I only knew that the abdominal exit thing was her forward-facing new butthole from a colostomy. My stomach turned hard as I grew instantly nauseous, and what the hell was up with the two old guys sitting a couple of seats away from her? That’s the price Germans pay for ignoring the world around them. Finding it rude to look upon people who are “out of sorts” they are in denial of BIG details like this, where a half-crazy person is flicking shit at their feet. I was approaching the valley of hurl and had to avert my eyes. As I boarded the train that had finally pulled in, I saw my opportunity to snap a photo or two, but my camera settings and the lighting weren’t perfectly coordinated, so this was the best I got before the door shut.

Breakfast at Eifler Bakery in Bornheim Mitte of Frankfurt, Germany

With that out of sight, I made my way over to Bornheim Mitte so I could have breakfast at the Eifler Bakery I had been frequenting regularly back in June. All was going well; my nausea had faded, and I got to writing about Klaus and my trip to the Celtic burial mounds at Bulau. Meanwhile, Caroline and I were chatting back and forth about her ride to Köln, her looking for the train bathroom, the train running late, her first sighting of the famous cathedral (Kölner Dom), and, of course, how much we love each other.

Man eating boogers in Frankfurt, Germany

Then it had to go and get weird. This guy sitting just on the other side of the glass a few feet from me started picking his nose, inspecting the catch, and gobbling it down. This wasn’t a one-off thing either, and for the next half-hour, I watched his technique carefully so I could best understand where he was failing at what should have been a stealthy action. Well, he wasn’t failing, as he wasn’t even trying to conceal his booger-picking/booger-eating Frühstück of Popel und Kaffee.

This wasn’t the first time I’ve witnessed such behavior in Germany, but it was the first time I was able to point my camera at a person and snap away as he was too deeply engrossed with finding those annoying nostril obstructions to pay attention to me. So I looked things up online to find out how socially acceptable this is here in Germany, and it seems as though it’s not. The first search result was for Joachim Löw, who’s taken the German national team to win the FIFA World Cup and himself to shame for not only eating his Popel (boogers) on national TV but also sticking his hand in his armpits, under his balls, and into his butt crack before sniffing his fingers. As far as I can tell, these behaviors are not normal for Germany, though I also learned that Dutchmen seem to pick their boogers in public more than any others, though they take pleasure in rolling and flicking them.

Now, I’m afraid to venture out into the city as I have no idea what I’ll see next, but after four hours here at an extended breakfast, it’s time to get going.

Bike horn in Frankfurt, Germany

To any of those people who might have read about my previous visit to Germany back in May and June, just because I’m posting this bike horn doesn’t mean I’ll be diving back into the diversity of bike bells as I did on that particular day in June.

Graffiti and call to action poster in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s voting season in Germany which also means it will be demonstration time too. You need not read German to hopefully be able to see #fridaysforfuture is the theme of this “Climate Strike.”

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Let’s say you have an extra four hours where you’re hanging out in Frankfurt with nothing better to do as your significant other is somewhere else, doing god knows what, and you were too lazy to jump on another train to a place like Stuttgart or wherever (actually I was too busy trying to catch up on some writing) so you find yourself at a loss of what to do. Oh, I know, I’ll go and see Jutta because my mother-in-law can be entertaining in funny ways, plus I know she likes spending time with family.

Frankfurt, Germany

Because I showed up without Caroline, Jutta assumed Caroline wasn’t in Germany with me and that maybe it was June all over again. When I told her that Caroline would be visiting tomorrow, she asked if her daughter was on the plane already. Nope, she’s in Köln. Jutta followed with, “What’s she doing there?” Visiting a friend but not Claudia, who probably doesn’t live in or near Köln. Maybe 20 minutes later, Jutta asked where Caroline was and was surprised to hear that she was in Köln and not in Arizona. Can you figure out for yourself how the remaining three hours played out?

All of that is of no serious matter except to remind Caroline and me that one or both of us may be facing a similar future and that, like Jutta, we need to laugh at the silliness of the situation and accept that, “It is what it is.”

Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

After more than two hours for lunch at Schwarzer Stern, we ambled along at old-lady-with-walker speed to the nearby ice cream shop. Jutta asked for something with fruit, so I got her the €9.50 Deluxe Fruit Boat (about $12). When they delivered it, she was certain she couldn’t finish even half of this giant of the ice cream world. Well, this champ at eating sweets left barely a morsel when they came to take the dish away. Okay, maybe it was a tenth of what was there, but I swear that my mother-in-law can enjoy a good dessert with the best of them.

St. Leonhard Catholic Church in Frankfurt, Germany

After walking Jutta back to Lebenshaus, I took a look at the church next door. St. Leonhard Catholic Church had been closed for nearly nine years before finally reopening recently. The renovation was a major undertaking and surely, attending a guided tour and paying a visit to the nearby Historical Museum would help to put the full picture of the effort together.

St. Leonhard Catholic Church in Frankfurt, Germany

As I entered the church, there was a lady up at the organ practicing, which I chose to appreciate as a free concert. She added the appropriate ambiance to my visit to yet another beautiful little church.

St. Leonhard Catholic Church in Frankfurt, Germany

A man named Karan was watching over the church and offered up some details about the renovation. He noted that St. Leonhard is the second oldest surviving building in the Frankfurt area; the other is St. Justinus over in Höchst, where we were yesterday.

On Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

Walking through Frankfurt is like weaving across time. I see so many iterations of myself, Caroline, situations, fashion, and variations of themes I’ve experienced before during my life. I don’t see this in New York City, Los Angeles, certainly not Phoenix, and yet this is a composite of those and a hundred other places I’ve been. From singing beggars, thugs, sexy and conservative women, boring business people, addicts, homeless people, foreigners, young people trying to fit in with peers, kids with balloons, all with faces from around the world and ages from all years.

On Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

With this comes a certain melancholy as I witness so many eras of my own life replaying here in each successive moment. Maybe it’s the density of people combined with the fluid integration of all economic corners in constant movement. Old meets new, and from no-tech to hi-tech, a generation glides by on electric scooters; some walk, others ride bikes, weaving between the heavy pedestrian traffic, too many smokers, and an endless parade of those who glean trashcan after trashcan just minutes after the last person on the hunt for anything refundable. Between those gleaners are the pigeons picking up every morsel of dropped crumb and fry they can run to and snatch before one of their flying rat brethren beats them to it.

On Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

The music comes and goes as one street musician gives way to another. Busking and bottle collecting might be the most legitimate forms of begging here in Frankfurt. Guys, and I do mean mostly guys, have boxes strapped to their backs and scooters under their feet as they speed by to deliver some food or other across town. The woman who was offering prayer songs had given way to an accordion player who was too much competition, or she had made as much money as she was looking for. I suppose if I spoke better German, I’d get into trouble by asking people about their activities, such as I did when I ran into a member of MS-13 earlier.

How did I know his gang affiliation? The facial tattoos were the first indication. I spent a moment studying his face as we walked along near Römer, making eye contact he gave a look acknowledging his awareness of me staring at him so I said hello. It was enough of an opening that I was able to learn of his Mexican and Moroccan heritage while we walked along, talking in the bit of German I could muster. It took me a minute to gather enough details out of the intricate tattoos before my eyes fell on the area below his bottom lip tucked between his heavy black beard that said, “Stay Away.” Oops, I apologized for not staying away; he laughed and said, “Kein Problem” before we parted directions. Yes, I absolutely wanted to ask for a photo but felt it inappropriate. I regret my timidity in this situation.

Stumbling Stones on Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

The old-school punkers who’ve set up camp nearby, while kind of silly looking, archaic even, would probably not disagree with their photos being taken, but if history is a good indicator, they will want a nice donation to the beer fund, and they are not so original to warrant even a Euro. The beggars that walk up and present their card in German, offering some plea for money, are the worst as they tilt their heads in some sympathetic nod while muttering “Bitte,” an act I’ve grown tired of.

It’s belly season in Frankfurt with many young ladies showing midriff; more than a few are sporting solid six-packs, to my surprise. Guys looking for those girls are just as likely to have the most incredibly chiseled beards and sharpened hairlines that must certainly slice through the bullshit of flirting and just draw each other in.

On Zeil in Frankfurt, Germany

In America, I feel like I’m on the cultural sushi belt of all-you-can-eat banality being performed on a 30-second loop, trying to induce nausea by repetition. Maybe it is all the same here, but my eyes have difficulties finding it, and my ears cannot pick up on it either; that’s a luxury of my limited German for sure. I have to wonder how long it would take, sitting here watching people on Zeil before it grew old, and I’d run low on inspiration and finding entertainment in the play of life. Just then, the two guys who’d been sitting across from me, eyeballing the girls from Wiesbaden on my right, made their move and approached them. I’m probably smiling too much as the guy who mustered the courage strikes up a conversation. And then it turned a bit creepy when, after trying to exchange info, he enquired where they had parked their vehicle, and it started to feel like a stalking situation. With no interest being offered, the guys moved on, or so I hope.

Central Grill in Bahnhofsviertal Frankfurt, Germany

Here I am back in Bahnhofsviertel, feeling leary as usual as I’ve seen crazy in this area, and while much has been gentrified, there is still that element of tension. I’m at the Central Grill for some solid Turkish food. I know it’s solid, as this isn’t the first time I’ve eaten here. The last time I visited, I wanted lamb, but they were out; tonight, I feast on an order and a half of lamb chops.

While I wait on my dinner, I’ll add this to my blog: my history here near Kaiserstrasse dates back to 1985 when, three days after landing in Frankfurt (courtesy of the US Army), I was introduced to the red light district that was thriving here back then. Since then, only fragments of relics really continue to hold on. How they’ve maintained their spaces during COVID-19 is a mystery, as I can’t imagine hooking is a legit gig during a pandemic. Back in the day, the open use of heroin was just a thing that was going on while pimps patrolled certain areas as women in their control worked illegally on the streets. Legalized prostitution was limited to houses licensed to offer such services. The last time I held my breath and entered one of these old decaying buildings, the charm as it was, was long gone and replaced by trepidation. I never had felt things were all that sketchy, although I had watched all manner of things unfold, and here I am today, possibly feeling vulnerable due to my age but all the same, I’m still drawn into the underbelly.

Bahnhofsviertal Frankfurt, Germany

Then, when I’m exposing my inner-sissy, I watch a couple of older people walking by two young women are out for a stroll, another old guy on his e-bike rides down the street, and here’s this overweight aging American conditioned to suspect anything that looks different to be potentially hostile. This realization eats at my ass as this idiotic fear has been planted long ago, and every time I’ve confronted it when as a young teen walking thru Skid Row in Los Angeles, visiting squatters’ flats here in Germany, looking for the goods in various red-light districts across Europe, or buying drugs from some shady characters, and even striking up the conversation with a member of MS-13 just today, I find that my anxiety wanes as soon as I confront this BS.

Here at 8:00 p.m., Caroline just reached out that she’s on her first connection that will bring her from the area where Claudia lives to Cologne for the transfer to a high-speed train that will zip her back to Frankfurt and into my hugging arms. In the meantime, I sip my Turkish tea, work on finishing the bottle of mineral water, and fret that I only have 71 minutes left on the battery for this notebook. I suppose that as I finish this and settle my bill, I can go people-watching at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) and hope that I don’t encounter stoma lady again.

It’s only 90 minutes before Caroline arrives, but then again, it’s 90 minutes.

Today was our 7th day in Germany, and it feels like it was nearly a month ago that we left Phoenix. Watch how I change my tune when, in two weeks, we are about to board our flight back to the US, and I lament how it all went by too fast and that we barely had enough time to do much of anything. Maybe our next trip we’ll finally take in Paris or Amsterdam, which for some reason seem to hold a lot of weight in measuring if we went far enough and saw all there was to see. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t feel cheated as our time spent anywhere is usually deeply immersive, and this certainly qualifies for that, but the more we pack into our limited schedule seems to burst the experience quotient.

Have you noticed that on a day without my wife by my side, I’m a verbose guy with nothing better to do than write? Yeah, I’m noticing it too, but you’ve got to appreciate that when we’re together, I’d rather spend time with her than with my computer. Time to call a server over so I could pay the bill and use their toilet, which is not a toilet at a train station.

Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

Seriously? The next bit will be hard to believe as I was just worrying about such a thing at dinner. I headed down Munchenerstrasse towards the main train station, and as I started to round the corner, a group of 7 or 8 men was crowding the sidewalk as I tried sliding between them and a woman with a stroller, one of the guys with his back to me stuck his leg out behind him, catching my left foot and as soon as he did he and a couple of others turned around and joined their buddies leaning against the wall. I’d imagine that had I gone down, there would have been three or four guys helping the old guy who just fell down back to his feet. Only then, I’d be minus a thing or two, such as the computer bag over my shoulder or the camera I had wrapped around my wrist and gripped tightly.

This pumped my adrenalin hard as I’ve seen this very thing happen years ago, but the guy that had been brought down was pummeled to disorient him. Situated in a sketchy part of the train station, it could easily have been deduced that the victim must have been drunk or on drugs and was simply suffering from his own stupidity. Such is the danger of walking alone on a street I knew I should have left but didn’t want to be paranoid about.

Now, in the train station, sitting at track #20 waiting for Caroline, I have to contend with the occasional beggar asking for “Kleingeld” or loose change. My answer is always the same, “Ich hab keins” (I have none). With a notebook in my lap, my phone/hot spot in my pocket, and a DSLR on my side, I always wonder when someone might run by and grab something. This, too, happened when I was 16 or 17, leaving a concert in Los Angeles as someone tried grabbing my SLR (back when film was still the thing), but then, like now, my camera strap was wrapped a couple of times around my wrist, and the lens gripped tight. The guy didn’t get my camera, but I went down and damaged the lens.

Thinking about these moments, I remember when my 1969 Chevy Nova was broken into at Huntington Beach in California and all of my cassettes stolen or the time in Amsterdam after visiting the Van Gogh Museum when I got back to the car and found I couldn’t open my trunk. It had been forcefully opened, and the key no longer worked. Feeling nauseous about why this would be, I stuck an arm into the trunk through a hole where a speaker used to be before I had torn it out, and my searching hand found nothing. That nothing included a very expensive (for the time) Sony Hi-8 pro video camera. The idiot who stole it probably got $50 to $100 for it so they could score some heroin, and the buyer picked up a useless NTSC camera that wouldn’t have worked on any European television as they used a system referred to as PAL that was incompatible with the American system.

Damn it, I’m tired of these panhandlers and need to put the writing to the side and go walking around in the busier areas.

Caroline Wise at the Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

And here she is, finally, and on time: Caroline, returning from a lovely day with her friend. The colorful bag is a caddy for craft items hand-sewn by Claudia. The backpack contains a travel spinning wheel that only weighs 3.5kg and should fit in an airplane overhead compartment. Overjoyed, we hugged and made our way to the U-Bahn. I would like to say that the rest of the night passed uneventfully, but the weirdness returned once more. On our last leg out to Heddernheim, a young man tried to pass by a couple of old guys who were hogging the space in the middle of the train. He asked one of them politely to make space, and the old man, for no apparent reason, went ballistic, shouting insults and ranting about Auslanders (foreigners). Just as I considered the necessity of getting involved, a tall younger man slowly moved between the angry old man and the young guy who was defending himself verbally yet dignified. Eventually, the old guys left the train, and the tension was released. The day, in some ways, was “Too weird.”