Wandering the Old West with Jutta – Day 1

Burro Jim Motel in Aguila, Arizona

This is another one of those blog posts that might have never been if it weren’t for my desire to build a comprehensive index of all of our travels. For more than a few years, I’ve been returning to old directories of photos and teasing out the exact days we were away from Phoenix. On more than a few occasions I find trips of which not a word or photo was ever shared. While on a lot of old posts, there were a minimum of images due to bandwidth issues at the time; I’m flummoxed how some trips never found their way up here. So here August 8th, 2022, I’ve brought together the best photos from this quick two-day getaway, and now I have to craft something or other to say because there’s nothing.

First up is an easy one; you see, back in 2001, Caroline and I passed right through here. On that day, this sign appeared to still be perfect, but here on the day I’m writing this in 2022, the Burro Jim Motel in Aguila, Arizona, is dead and gone. Click here to visit that trip from 2001.

Sunset Motel in Wenden, Arizona

The Sunset Motel in Wenden is defunct, too, though it probably was so even back in 2009. Knowing that we were traveling from Phoenix to Aguila and then Wenden allowed me to start determining the direction of our trip, and that made it a bit easier to put things back together.

Old horse tie-up and ruin in Salome, Arizona

I’ve looked for information about this old stone building with horse tie-ups still out front here in Salome but have never found anything.

Hope, Arizona

You enter Hope and just as quickly are leaving Hope behind.

Old Brayton Ghost Town & Museum near Bouse, Arizona

Old Brayton Ghost Town & Museum near Bouse, Arizona, was already fading fast here in 2009, but somewhere between then and 2022, it was removed from the map.

Old Brayton Ghost Town & Museum near Bouse, Arizona

This old stuff makes me curious about driving out this route once again and seeing how things have changed in the intervening years. Heck, for all I know, I’ll stumble upon another directory of photos featuring this exact trek.

Near Parker, Arizona

That’s the Colorado River with California on the left and Arizona on the right. We are traveling north on State Route 95.

Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge near Parker, Arizona

This is the Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge, and in the over 25 years we’ve lived in Arizona, we have yet to hike its short trails; this must be fixed.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline near Parker, Arizona on Knitting in Public Day

Caroline posing while holding her knitting with Jutta can only mean one thing: it’s World Wide Knit in Public Day.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on old Route 66 a.k.a. Oatman Highway in Arizona

Okay, Caroline, we get it; you are knitting in public. Yeah, but when has anyone else ever knitted in public on Historic Route 66?

Old Route 66 a.k.a. Oatman Highway in Arizona

When you travel the broad expanse of Interstate 40, you can only wonder why the original highway planners of Route 66 brought the road through areas such as this. Talk about being off the beaten path.

Old Route 66 a.k.a. Oatman Highway in Arizona

I would have bet $100 there was NO chance we’d be seeing burros on this road.

Caroline Wise in Oatman, Arizona

And then all of a sudden, you have two of them jamming their heads into your car, pleading that we take them with us or feed them. It’s probably the latter, as who has ever seen a burro in the backseat of a car?

Donkey's in Oatman, Arizona

Good thing I didn’t bet $100 per burro.

Donkey's in Oatman, Arizona

Nothing like a braying burro to get others to laugh with them.

Oatman, Arizona

The sign, aside from telling us about gold mining in the area, warns visitors to avoid the burros as they are wild and will bite and kick. Later, we also found out that local shops sell carrots to tourists as burro food, which makes some of them rather fat. Interestingly, fat donkeys carry a lot of their extra weight on their necks.

Caroline Wise in Oatman, Arizona on Knitting in Public Day

Apparently, the burros are either domesticated by now due to all the visitors feeding them, or they’ve come out to politely watch the knitting-in-public-day festivities.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

At this point in identifying our road trip, I got lost on the map for quite a while.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt nn Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

From where the next day started photographically, it only made sense that we stayed in Kingman, Arizona, for the night.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

But these photos looked like nothing around Kingman.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

Joshua trees and vermillion cliffs weren’t triggering our memories, so both Caroline and I continued scouring StreetView on Google Maps, trying to find something from our photos that would hint at our location.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona approaching South Cove Marina

It turned out that we went in a very unintuitive direction, far away from either of our best guesses.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona approaching South Cove Marina

This overlook is on Pierce Ferry Road, which travels out to Meadview, Arizona, as we were approaching South Cove Marina. We turned around at this point as there were over 70 miles ahead of us that would need nearly 90 minutes to cover before we’d reach somewhere for dinner. This is how we wander into the Old West.

A Short Drive North With Jutta

Somewhere north of Fountain Hills on AZ-87 heading towards Payson, Arizona

Recovered from the intense trip to America’s northeast and Rinku and Yagnesh’s extravagant wedding, it was time to reset things with a short drive north.

Jutta Engelhardt on Lake Mary Road heading towards Flagstaff, Arizona

Jutta and I took this Wednesday after dropping Caroline at work to get in our little Kia Spectra 5, taking advantage of the cool weather and beautiful day.

Upper Lake Mary approaching Flagstaff, Arizona

Here we are at Upper Mary Lake shortly before arriving in Flagstaff, where my mother-in-law and I had lunch before heading down the 17 freeway to return to Phoenix and the heat of the desert.

A Hindu Wedding – Day 2

Yagnesh Rajnikant Damania getting married in Phoenix, Arizona

Things at a Hindu wedding are not so simple as getting dressed in your best clothes, there is the community preparation part that draws out a lot of laughter. From various prayers, joinings, sweets, a coconut, this milk and turmeric washing, to dances welcoming the bride and groom after they’ve gotten dressed in their wedding clothes, these events have many moving parts that rely on friends and family to help organize everything.

Rinku Shah getting married in Phoenix, Arizona

And then the ceremony begins with many rituals, prayers, and symbolic offerings to usher in a life of happiness.

Yagnesh Rajnikant Damania and Rinku Shah getting married in Phoenix, Arizona

And then they are man and wife!

Jutta Engelhardt at Rinku's wedding in Phoenix, Arizona

With my mother-in-law Jutta still in America, the Shah family extended the invitation to her and helped supply her with clothes appropriate for the day.

Caroline Wise at Rinku's wedding in Phoenix, Arizona

My wife is sooo hot.

Amish Buggy, Ephrata Cloister, to Phoenix

The blog posts of the previous 14 days were all updated in August 2022 to include more photos. Going from 3 to 5 photos to 2 dozen or more per entry, such as with this one, is common. As I’ve explained before, years ago, the bandwidth constraints made it difficult to include all the photos that I might have wanted. The good thing about these other posts is that while there were a minimal number of photos, I had written the narrative of what was happening over the course of the day, so while you may not have seen a photo of fireworks at Niagara Falls, I’d written of them. That’s not the case regarding this 15th day of our North Atlantic States vacation with my mother-in-law, Jutta Engelhardt. There were no photos and nothing written for this day, and I have no idea why not, but when I started moving sequentially through the day, I was surprised by this omission. So what follows is derived from the images, the itinerary that I still have, and the memories of Caroline and me that have been brought back to these days from the processes of updating the posts from the days prior.

Abe’s Buggy Rides in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, was our first order of business after the obligatory taking care of breakfast. Seems that we’ll be out on the town in the limousine of buggies.

How can one move through the communities of the Amish, see them going about their day using horse and buggy, and not wonder what it must be like to slow things down and travel in a way that is reminiscent of another age? I suppose if you grew up here and you found these traditional people tedious or annoying as you wished to pass them on your way to work or school, then you probably have no romantic ideas of such an experience, but I did, and today here we are learning firsthand what’s it’s like to venture out behind a horse.

Our coachman supplied pastries this morning in case we did not have time for breakfast. nice touch. Among others, Caroline is holding a whoopie pie for later consumption. As you can see, it’s quite comfortable back here. I can almost hear the cynic who says, “Tell me how much you enjoy this ride come January when it’s snowing.” Sorry, cynic, I’m opting for a life of self-delusional happiness where smiles, pastries, and love are readily available and always within reach.

While the Amish may eschew gas and electric devices and machines, it doesn’t mean they aren’t crafty when it comes to dealing with the needs of life. I was so impressed with this manure spreader I had to stop to ensure I got a proper photo of a horse and gear-driven contraption of poop flinging.

Utility and symbiosis with the task at hand, be it a farmer, a father, or a member of his community, you gotta respect that. Towards the end of our buggy ride, our guides stopped at a sewing workshop, allowing us to take a look at another type of Amish ingenuity: air-powered treadle sewing machines.

Caroline and I have been here before; on our first cross-country trip in 2000, we arrived at Ephrata Cloister well before they opened, and so we had to skip a proper visit. We were not going to miss it this time.

Nearly ten years ago, I wrote, “Conrad Beissel, a man of German descent, was Ephrata’s founder and established this corner of Pennsylvania as somewhere he felt he could live as a hermit. By the early 1750s, Beissel was no longer alone, having attracted nearly 80 others who chose the monastic life of celibacy and self-discipline.”

Two years prior to this visit, Caroline attended a 4-day workshop in Harveyville, Kansas, called Yarn School, and now all of this equipment used in making yarn is looking familiar. A year after our visit, Caroline would acquire her first loom, and the process of making fabric would become part of her practice in the fiber arts.

Our tour brought us into an unrestored section of the cloister, allowing us to get a sense of the condition of the place prior to the efforts to save this tiny corner of American history. If you look at the photo three images below this one, you’ll see what a restored kitchen looks like as compared to this one.

Many of the rooms we looked at didn’t have doors and instead featured curtains because, living a life of celibacy, what need would there be for privacy?

Conrad Beissel died in 1768, the last celibate practitioner passed in 1813, and the church as it was ceased to operate in 1934. It wasn’t long after that that the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission took over the buildings and grounds to preserve things.

A restored kitchen.

This looks a bit too luxurious for the celibate members, so I’m guessing that this was the living quarters of one of the “householders” who oversaw the operations of the order so its members could devote themselves to the life of an ascetic.

Maybe someday, holidays will be able to be taken in living history settings where one could live as a monk for a week, a prisoner in an old jail, or as an Amish farmer.

The grounds here are beautiful and are what really instilled in us the desire to one day return.

I think there’s an underlying thought that maybe Caroline and I could have adapted to this kind of lifestyle as the isolation felt in our youth, led both of us to, at times, believe we might always be alone, so why not take it to an extreme? For her, it was a nunnery, and for me, it was the philosopher’s cave or mountaintop.

Next time we visit, it’ll have to be on a sunny day.

Time to leave.

About to turn in the rental car here in Baltimore, Maryland, and go home.

Shortly after departure, we were flying over some bad weather.

Just as Howard Hughes learned while he was making films, clouds make for great dramatic skies.

Rain falling but never reaching the earth.

This is what happens when you can’t pick just one sunset photo…

…because they keep getting better, like our wonderful vacations.

South to the Amishland

Wales Center, New York

We left Buffalo, New York, early this morning with half a cold Bocce Club pizza wrapped in foil and ready for breakfast. As typical of our travels, we meandered through the countryside, bypassing the speedier highway for more relaxed rural sightseeing. This photo was taken near Wales Center, just southeast of Buffalo; we are on the US-20A.

We have over 300 miles to cover today as we position ourselves closer to Baltimore, Maryland, from where we’ll fly home.

Along the way, we spotted a camel – what in the world is a camel doing living on a farm in New York?

Maybe it’s feasting on the beautiful flowers?

The sheep seemed right at home, though.

So, after Jamestown, Colonial Williamsburg, Mount Vernon, D.C., New York City, and Waterloo, New York, where Memorial Day began, we’ve now been to Mt. Morris, home of Francis Bellamy, who wrote the Pledge of Allegiance. At this time, we are traveling on NY-36 and avoiding the toll roads.

I’ve probably said it a hundred times before, but you don’t get to stop to admire brooks, sheep, camels, or flowers from the freeways or thru-ways as they are known in New York.

Obviously not seen from a main highway.

Ice Cream Island in Dansville, New York, with John and Jutta, though I spy a cone in my left hand for Caroline. I know it’s hers because I’m the vanilla man while she’s the “Anything-but-vanilla woman.”

The more we see of New York away from its big cities, the more it feels like New York State is one of the most beautiful in America. While every state we visit has some inherent natural beauty, and it would be near impossible to briefly quantify here in this short paragraph what those distinguishing characteristics are that have me feeling that New York stands out; it just seems to be that way.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Tioga, Pennsylvania

It wasn’t long before we arrived at the Pennsylvania state border and stopped at a visitors center with one of the best views of any state visitors center we have seen so far.

Near Tioga, Pennsylvania

Perched high above a river valley, on this clear day, you could see far and wide; only a panorama would have done the sight justice. A super-friendly employee at this roadside information treasure trove directed us to some beautifully scenic small roads to take on our way to the Lancaster, Pennsylvania, area.

Loyalsock Avenue in Montoursville, Pennsylvania

As we approached this famous Amish region, the forested roads gave way to idyllic pastoral farms. Hmmm, is this some kind of foreshadowing?

Jutta Engelhardt pointing out Mausdale, Pennsylvania

Jutta had to have this photo of her pointing to Mausdale because her daughter Stephanie might get a laugh about seeing this. You see, Stephanie’s nickname is Maus, which in English is mouse, so you could read this as Mouseville.

Rural Pennsylvania

The Amish are near.

Rural Pennsylvania

I could have tried to get a better shot of Mill Creek Dam, but this is what I got. When you live in a desert, things like flowing water hold magical appeal.

Amish girls in Leacock Township, Pennsylvania

The wheels made of wood and steel belts combined with the clopping sound of the horseshoes can seem loud, and then there are the horse farts along with the poo that falls out right before your face, but still, this form of transportation seems like a lot of fun if you don’t have a hundred miles to cover. It’s too bad there are no parallel roads, so the Amish don’t have to share roads with cars. Regarding the comment about loudness, I’ve never seen an Amish buggy feature a booming sound system that rattles nearby buggies.

Leacock Township, Pennsylvania

This is the Mascot Roller Mills & Ressler Family Home, built back in 1737 in Ronks, Pennsylvania.

Leacock Township, Pennsylvania

We are in the heart of Lancaster County, where the presence of the Amish is felt everywhere.

Amish man plowing his field in rural Pennsylvania

If there’s daylight, there’s time for work.

Amish farm in rural Pennsylvania

If it looks quiet out there, it’s because there are no machines, no electricity, no TV, no video games, not even the internet.

Rural Pennsylvania

By now, we have passed a number of black horse-drawn buggies moving members of the Amish community down the same roads shared by those of us in our speeding cars.

Amish farm in rural Pennsylvania

After our guilty stops to gawk at these folks living their lives in a fishbowl, we head over to one of the many Amish-style restaurants out this way to stuff ourselves with all-you-can-eat family-style dinner and then check in to our motel.

Amish man with two of his children behind a team of horses pulling a plow on their farm in Pennsylvania

Just as the sun is setting over Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, the sun is about to set on our two-week vacation here in the North Atlantic states. Tonight, we get in early to start rearranging our bags for tomorrow’s flight back to Arizona. Two dozen books, a dozen refrigerator magnets, yarn, thimbles, and various other souvenirs will be packed up and ready to go. No lamenting the end of this trip, though, as it has been nothing less than perfect. Plus, we still have two more things to do from our itinerary tomorrow.

Niagara Falls

Why Coffee Shop in Niagara Falls, New York

The cheapest room I could find in the Buffalo, New York, area, well, not the cheapest as that would also be the sketchiest, so I’ll clarify: the cheapest room in a reasonable area was over in the city of Niagara Falls. For under $100 a night, we were as close to Canada as we could be without paying Canadian rates, where it’s more expensive because it’s safe and clean over there. We were able to have some sense that things weren’t as bad around here and hopefully safer than in Buffalo.

Update: In 2020, the Rodeway Inn we stayed at on Main Street was removed from the face of the Earth; I guess we have a knack for choosing places that are close to being condemned. 

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Why Coffee Shop in Niagara Falls, New York

The Why Coffee Shop is probably the cheapest place we’ll ever eat breakfast ever again in our lifetimes. There might have been something on the menu that cost more than $5.00, but the majority of plates were averaging about $3.50; I’m not joking. And no, coffees weren’t $4.99 to make up for the low prices. Then again, it doesn’t appear that anything’s changed since they first opened in 1979.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Niagara Falls

The third time was the charm; that was how many times we had to try to get on the Maid of the Mist at Niagara Falls. The first time we came here was in the year 2000. It was November, and the season was over. Two years ago, when we arrived in springtime when the Maid of the Mist should have already been running, there was still ice on the river and on the falls that was delaying opening day – and our schedule didn’t allow us to hang out until things cleared. So, nearly a decade after our first attempt, we are on the river, about to see the falls from a whole new perspective.

Niagara Falls

Still early in the day, we are under a thick gray cloud layer that is supposed to give way to a beautiful blue sky, just not yet. We are on the first boat of the day, going out to meet the crashing falls. As a youngster, I was not able to appreciate this as much as I am today. Watching the churning waters, feeling the stinging mist being shot off the rocks as the water from above plummets 183 feet (55.8m), and the deafening roar makes for a ride equal to the best rollercoaster.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Niagara Falls

I only wish I had been better prepared for the amount of water that is everywhere. I thought being downstairs on the boat would offer us at least some protection so I could snap off a few photos, but that was not going to happen as there’s no such thing as “dry” down at the foot of the falls. From the smiles, you can tell that this was super fun.

Niagara Falls

Wouldn’t you know it, we start to leave for Canada, and the skies start to clear. Maybe the depression that is Buffalo also attracts the bad weather.

Niagara Falls

I think I’ve written this elsewhere, but the city of my birth has been in decline since before I was born, which is tragic as it was at one time an economically and culturally successful city, but there’s nothing like racism, intolerance, and lack of imagination to destroy the things that once were an example to a country. Enough said.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Niagara Falls

After the thrill ride on the Maid of the Mist, we walked over the Rainbow Bridge to Canada for a better view of the Horseshoe Falls.

Niagara Falls

Our timed ticket for Journey Behind The Falls and The Cave of Winds was more than an hour away, so why not eat first?

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Niagara Falls

And in an instant, the sun comes out to warm our faces…

Niagara Falls

…before helping all the flowers bloom just for us because that’s the way life is in Canada.

Niagara Falls

Time to eat, and then we head down there.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Niagara Falls

After lunch at Elements on the Falls, we got in line to await our turn, going down the elevator with rain ponchos in hand.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Niagara Falls

Standing in the Cave of Winds, we watched subtly shifting patterns of changing brightness and shadow depending on the volume of water and its vertical depth directly in front of us fall from above and, in an instant, be gone and simultaneously replaced by the ever-flowing, roaring waters that mesmerizes us into not wanting to give way for another visitor to have their chance to gaze into this moment of amazement.

Niagara Falls

Outside, we are standing next to the foot of the falls that tower overhead, dropping tons of water not far from our very heads.

Niagara Falls

Yep, we were that close.

Jutta Engelhardt at Niagara Falls

I can easily say that I believe I’ll never see a scowl on my mother-in-law’s face as the adventures of the three of us have filled her with eternal happiness.

Niagara Falls

Spilling out of Lake Erie, the waters now known as Niagara River will flow onwards to Lake Ontario prior to becoming the St. Lawerence River, only to drain into the Atlantic Ocean up around Nova Scotia and Newfoundland.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Niagara Falls

All the Canadians apologized and moved out of view when they realized we were taking a selfie; the rest of the people behind us were obviously not Canadians.

Niagara Falls

Back above the falls, the sky is now clear with the sun and mist in the air, delivering rainbows that flash into existence and fade, adding icing to the cake we are enjoying today. Jaded we are not; our sense of wonderment is alive, healthy, giddy even.

Niagara Falls

Time to leave Canada and Niagara Falls – for the moment.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, Brian and Lillian Marynowski, with John Wise in Buffalo, New York

South of Niagara Falls is Grand Island on the Niagara River and on Grand Island is Beaver Park. It is here on this Memorial Day that we meet up with my Aunt Lillian and her son, my cousin, Brian Marynowski. Lillian was named after her grandmother, Luba, who I mentioned in yesterday’s post.

Buffalo, New York

Brian’s kids, Jonathan and Jacob, were at the park, too, but we hardly saw them since they were busy playing. It was already late in the day, and after their traditional day-long picnic with friends and family, it was nearly time to wrap things up as we were arriving.

Leaving the park, we drove to Eggertsville where my aunt Lillian lives in the same house she grew up with my father and my grandparents. It’s difficult to catch up with just a few hours to visit, but we had a great time bringing my mother-in-law into a short version of my family history, and she enjoyed meeting my aunt and cousin.

Niagara Falls

A few photos ago, I wrote that we had to leave Niagara Falls – for the moment. Well, I knew that after our family get-together Caroline, Jutta, and I were going back to the falls for a night-time view.

Niagara Falls

And it just so happened that on Sundays and Fridays, there are firework shows at the Falls, and since this is Sunday it really is our lucky day (or, rather, night).

Niagara Falls

Not bringing my tripod with me limited the opportunity to take proper fireworks or waterfall photos, but I did manage to get this halfway decent photo of the falls before calling it a night.

Niagara Falls

Standing over Hell’s Half Acre, the rapids just upstream of the American Falls, between Luna and Goat Islands.