Number 9 of 20

Trip 9: We are now booked for a rather short 5-day visit at Yellowstone National Park with reservations in hand for Old Faithful Inn during May 2020.  I even called ahead to have a note put on our reservation asking for room #225 we’ve stayed in on nearly half a dozen of our visits. To date, we have spent 36 days spread between 8 trips here at Yellowstone; this visit will push us to 41 total days. You can bet I’m already thinking about a winter return, possibly as early as Christmas 2020.

Update: This trip was canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Yellowstone Jan 2010

Trip 8: The next time these two faces are seen in Yellowstone National Park, it will have been ten years since we were last in the park and 20 years since we made our first visit back in May 2000. This photo was taken on January 22, 2010, during our second winter visit to the first national park on Earth. This indulgence of being able to visit two winters in a row afforded us another eight days here. That ice-cream-colored beanie was hand-spun and knitted by the woman on my right, and I chose the colorway. I felt it made a bold statement.

Yellowstone Jan 2009

Trip 7: Our first winter visit to Yellowstone was for nine days, split between Mammoth Hot Springs and Old Faithful Snow Lodge. We thought the park was going to be enchanting, but we never could have anticipated just how astonishing the place is during winter. There’s a fraction of the number of people who visit during the summer, and the quiet and serenity that accompanies this time of year cannot be understated. We arrived on January 10th, 2009, in time to celebrate our 15th wedding anniversary here in Yellowstone.

Canary Spring in Yellowstone July 2007

Trip 6: Four days over the long 4th of July weekend back in 2007 was enough to refresh our memories of how beautiful Yellowstone Park is.

Yellowstone Hot Spring May 2005

Trip 5: Only two days were spent in Yellowstone back in May 2005. My mother-in-law, Jutta Engelhardt, is with us again five years after her first visit to Yellowstone, this time in the spring instead of late fall.

Bison in Yellowstone May 2004

Trip 4: It’s May 2004, and we are with our friend Jay Patel on a cross-country road trip that wouldn’t have been complete without a stop in Yellowstone. Over the course of three days in the area, we spent a great deal of time exploring the geysers, mud pots, and wildlife. While you can’t tell from this photo, we also had plenty of snow to make snowmen and snow angels in.

Old Faithful Inn Yellowstone July 2003

Trip 3: Our only 1-day visit to Yellowstone occurred on July 6, 2003, after being away from the park for three years. We were on our way south after visiting Glacier National Park on the long 4th of July weekend.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Yellowstone 2000

Trip 2: Under the guise of bringing Caroline’s mother, Jutta Engelhardt, over to see Yellowstone (because I’m that kind of selfless husband and son-in-law), I was able to convince my beautiful wife of the importance of making a second visit to this corner of Wyoming in the same year. Truth is, I would have sold Jutta to any bidder for the opportunity to visit again, as I couldn’t get our first visit out of my head. This is during October 2000, the closing days of the park. We spent five days on this visit.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Yellowstone 2000

Trip 1: Our very first visit to Yellowstone National Park with our friends Ruby and Axel Rieke started on May 14th, 2000. While we had reserved a room for four days, I could have stayed for months. I was smitten with Yellowstone all summer long and schemed to figure out how to justify coming back sooner rather than later. Never in my wildest dreams could I have ever imagined that within 20 years, we’d be making our 9th visit and that we would be able to visit the park during all seasons.

Number 19 of 17

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Oregon Coast November 2018

Here, at the last minute, we decided that we’d go north. The destination we are heading to is Oregon, the coast specifically; it will be our 19th visit during the past 17 years. Only seven of the previous journeys into the state were made outside of late fall and winter, with our inclination to spend time on the rocky coast during the quiet season. The photo of us above is from last year somewhere along the Oregon coast.

Three Arch Rocks March 2002

Trip 1: Back in March 2002, we made our first visit to the Oregon coast and were smitten within minutes of arrival. This is the view from Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge, seen from Oceanside Beach near Maxwell Point.

Cleetwood Trail Crater Lake July 2002

Trip 2: By July of the same year, we were once again underway on our way up through California on our way to Oregon. It was the long 4th of July, 2002, and we now knew that the drive that far north wasn’t all that difficult, so off we went. The trail took us past a remote corner of Death Valley, through a ghost town, and up to Crater Lake National Park before we turned around to race home to Phoenix, Arizona.

Mount Hood November 2002

Trip 3: Hey, it’s now November 2002, and we’ve just gotten started exploring Oregon with so much left to find. Here’s Caroline standing in an ice-cold mountain stream at the foot of Mount Hood. If you think freezing cold water phases my wife, you’d be sadly mistaken. We are now attempting to see all four corners of the state and the interior, so we have a better idea of exactly where we want to return to on future visits.

Harris Beach Yurt and Caroline Wise in Oregon November 2003

Trip 4: November 2003 and where better to go than back to Oregon. In the intervening time between visits, we’d learned that more than a few state parks along the coast have yurts as part of their accommodation offerings. Back then, they were incredibly cheap in our eyes and seemed romantic from afar. With this here, our first night staying in a yurt, we fell in love faster than it took to unlock the front door. We knew we were hooked. This photo of Caroline was taken at Harris Beach near Brookings, Oregon.

Horses near the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon

Trip 5: Barely six months had gone by before the call of Oregon summoned us back. Emboldened by the ease we were getting to places we thought were too far for 5 to 7 days, we took on this July 2004 summer drive back to Crater Lake. From there, we headed over the Columbia River and up to Washington to see Mount Rainier before driving out to Olympic National Park. Our return was via Oregon and California back to Phoenix, where the scorched desert awaited us. The photo was taken somewhere between John Day and the Columbia River in Oregon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Dutch Bros in Grants Pass, Oregon

Trip 6: This one was almost missed as we were only in Oregon for 2 hours after leaving the Redwoods down in California to head up to Grants Pass for a cup of Dutch Bros. coffee. It seemed like a great idea at the time. November 28, 2004.

Cape Meares Lighthouse in Oregon May 2005

Trip 7: May 2005, and it was time to share our affinity with the Pacific Northwest with my mother-in-law, Jutta. With Caroline and I now quite familiar with some “best of” places, we took her mom to Death Valley, the Redwoods National Park, up the coast of Oregon into Washington, and then over to Glacier National Park in Montana before dropping into Yellowstone for her second visit to that park and then down across Utah before stopping for her first-ever visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The photo is of the Cape Meares Lighthouse near Tillamook, Oregon.

Caroline Wise at Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint in Brookings, Oregon

Trip 8: Oh, it’s Thanksgiving, and there’s no better way to escape family obligations around the holidays than for us to be out on the road. November 2006 was the witness to this short 7-day excursion up through San Francisco with a quick jaunt into Oregon for a couple of days before heading down to Santa Cruz, California, to spend some time on that coast, too. The photo of Caroline was taken at the Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint near Brookings, Oregon.

Carl Washburne State Park in Oregon November 2007

Trip 9: This is becoming a trend where we pack things up for a road trip that somehow keeps ending up in Oregon in November because here we are in 2007, testing the question of, “Will it be boring this time?” The answer was a resounding “NO!” This photo was taken in the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, home of the most southerly temperate rain forest in the United States.

Rocks rising above the water in Siletz Bay, Oregon

Trip 10: You can pass Siletz Bay near Lincoln City, Oregon, one hundred times, and this view will always look different. I’m not sure we’ve stopped here that many times, but on this November 2008 trip along the coast, we were taken by the silhouettes etching out a perfect scene as our day was coming to a close. It was difficult choosing this photo of Siletz Bay when this was also the trip up the coast that had us stopping at the Devils Churn near Cape Perpetua for a sight that enchanted us for a solid hour or more. Click here to see an image from the Churn that is still one of my favorites.

Caroline Wise Kayaking in Garibaldi, Oregon September 2011

Trip 11: Oh my, it’s been three years since last we visited Oregon though we have great excuses why we couldn’t make it. In 2009, we visited Yellowstone National Park for the first time during winter. In May of that year, my mother-in-law Jutta spent two weeks with us in the Eastern United States. In 2010, we visited Yellowstone in January again, as the year before was so fascinating. Then, later in the year, we rafted the Colorado River through Grand Canyon National Park for nearly three weeks. Enjoying the idea of boating, we stretched out on our 10th trip to Oregon for some kayaking here in Garibaldi in September 2011.

Near Heceta Head Lighthouse in Oregon November 2011

Trip 12: A second visit in one year is kind of extraordinary, but we apparently have an addiction problem, and I don’t mean mushrooms. This trip saw us bringing a friend along as maybe they can corroborate our sense of amazement for Oregon or they can point out why our regard is too high, and we can back off this incessant need to visit the state every chance we get. The mushroom was photographed near Heceta Head Lighthouse in Florence, Oregon, in November 2011.

Oregon Coast November 2012

Trip 13: Rafting in Alaska this summer wasn’t enough for us, so here we are in November 2012 for our 12th visit to Oregon. With some research, information about the location of this photo could be found but I’m feeling kind of lazy about this time in trying to write this blog. You see, when I started this entry, I thought we’d made 14 visits, but then I discovered a few more trips about which, for one reason or other, I never blogged. With no photos posted here, I had just assumed my blog showed all of our visits; wrong.

South Coast of Oregon May 2013

Trip 14: Out with my daughter Jessica in May 2013 because we’d never seen the state of Oregon with her in our company; seemed like as good a reason as any.

Oregon Sunset November 2015

Trip 15: It’s that time of year again. Here we are in November 2015, and once again it’s Oregon on our minds. We missed last year due to me starting a new company to build a Virtual Reality world, only to end up neglecting ours. True, we did raft the Yampa River up in Colorado and Utah with friends, and we visited Los Angeles and San Francisco during 2014, but it was truly the slowest travel year we’d experienced in over a dozen years.

Depoe Bay, Oregon November 2016

Trip 16: November 2016, did you think there was any chance we’d miss the opportunity to visit Oregon at this time of year?

Caroline Wise at Rockaway Beach, Oregon April 2017

Trip 17: Are we bored yet? Do we look bored? One doesn’t ride the wild corn dog if things are not top-notch. April 2017 marks the first time ever we’ve been in Oregon during this month: wow! So now we’ve visited this amazing state in March, April, May, July, September, and November, leaving only six other months we’ll have to plan visits for. Where do you find this exhilarating ride? In Rockaway Beach.

Boiler Bay in Oregon November 2018

Trip 18: By now, you must have already guessed that this was shot in November 2018. If you guessed that date, you win a trip with us to Oregon on one of our next visits. You just have to pay your way and pass a compatibility test with us grizzled travelers, and maybe you’ll be out exploring such fantastic sights such as this one on a late afternoon at Boiler Bay near Depoe Bay, Oregon.

Antilibrary

New Reading for John Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

Redefining my reading list and expanding the corner of our antilibrary* that is a large part of our small living space. The roots of this change in programming started earlier this year when I was in Frankfurt, Germany. A meeting with an old friend Olaf Finkbeiner triggered thoughts of media philosophy ranging from Joshua Meyrowitz to Jean Baudrillard. Then about a week later in Weimar, contemplating yet older thoughts attached to my readings of Nietzsche, Goethe, and Schiller, I started reminiscing on the intellectual proclivities of people who think. Upon my return to the States, I came across the blog of a guy I’d met a couple of times back in the ‘90s when I was living in Frankfurt, his name is Achim Szepanski. Back in the day, I learned of the work of Gilles Deleuze through Achim but by that time I was deep into other subjects and not interested in pulling in one more thinker of obtuse complex ideas.

There seems to be a convergence of thinkers whose work is entering my orbit. Again, I have to return to Achim, as it was his website non.copyriot.com that enchanted me with his complex visualizations of thought experiments, turning the page into a canvas to explore the current evolution of political and economic landscapes.

Then, over the course of summer, I see references repeated, again and again, spurring me to resolve why all of a sudden I’m seeing these patterns. At this point a kind of frenzy of curiosity grabs hold and I need to know more. Cursory investigations point in a direction that over time nods to particular sources and the degrees of separation dissolve to the point I must follow some of these threads.

One of those moments distilled my curiosity into picking up books by Nick Land (Fanged Noumena), Reza Negarestani (Cyclonopedia: Complicity with Anonymous Materials), Alexandre Lefebvre (The Image of Law: Deleuze, Bergson, Spinoza), Quentin Meillassoux (After Finitude: An Essay on the Necessity of Contingency), Alain Badiou (Ethics: An Essay on the Understanding of Evil), Paolo Virno (When the Word Becomes Flesh: Language and Human Nature and a couple of others). There are other authors I have my eye on and a couple of things I pulled from the shelf of my antilibrary as I look for something that seems just out of reach.

What I’m on the hunt for is an understanding of humanity’s direction both socially and economically. I’m trying to glean some small insight that will let me feel I’m not on the outside of our trajectory.

Do I have hope that these texts and treatises will help light the way? In some small way yes but not in the profound red pill kind of way. Maybe they can act like slivers that penetrate the body of my mind infecting it with a non-lethal mix of tiny new inspirations that the antibodies of thinking can harness while strengthening my neural pathways into taking roads unseen.

* Nassim Nicholas Taleb writes in his book The Black Swan: “A private library is not an ego-boosting appendage but a research tool. Read books are far less valuable than unread ones. The library should contain as much of what you do not know as your financial means, mortgage rates, and the currently tight real-estate market allows you to put there. You will accumulate more knowledge and more books as you grow older, and the growing number of unread books on the shelves will look at you menacingly. Indeed, the more you know, the larger the rows of unread books. Let us call this collection of unread books an antilibrary.”

Katharina – Going to Sedona

Fire near Crown King, Arizona

Picked up Caroline from her office about 30 minutes early and headed north for an overnight up in Sedona. Turns out this fire up near Crown King was burning Sunday night when we passed through the area on our way home from the Grand Canyon, but under the cover of darkness, we couldn’t see the smoke. Katharina has an early morning appointment near Sedona that would have required us to leave Phoenix shortly before 4:00 in the morning, so grabbing a cheap room up north felt in order.

Katharina Engelhardt in Sedona, Arizona

We made it up to this corner of the red rocks before sunset, allowing Kat to capture some of the sights she’ll likely miss in the morning as our route will take us south out of town. Matter of fact, we’ll be heading out so early that besides Denny’s, there won’t be anything else open for breakfast. Once up this way, I wanted to run us up to Oak Creek Canyon for the drive past Slide Rock up to Flagstaff, but remaining daylight is not in our favor, and most dinner options on a summer Tuesday night in Sedona end at 9:00, so we’ll need to tend to that too.

Sedona, Arizona

We only had time for a few short impressions as the sun was going to set at 7:40, so we stopped for a quick shot and continued further up the road.

Katharina Engelhardt in Sedona, Arizona

Everything was going great until we recognized that Kat seemed to be getting too much sun. We’d been trying to convince her to drink more water and wear more sunblock, but she thought .25 liters of SPF 50 per day was enough. Now she knows that in the Arizona desert, you wear SPF 250 and drink gallons of water, or this happens. It’s a shame to see our 19-year-old niece seeming to age right before our eyes.

Caroline Wise in Sedona, Arizona

The constant knitting, weaving, audiobooks, tea, and folk music have allowed Caroline to age gracefully, and even as she approaches her senior years, I gotta say that my wife is still one of the hottest women I’ve known, and if she were to ask me again to marry her, I wouldn’t hesitate. Sure, the wrinkles are getting thicker, but those eyes still pull me in, and I just melt as we smile at each other.

John Wise in Sedona, Arizona

As for me, well, spending more than two weeks with our niece has exacted a heavy toll on my nerves, and the stress has turned my hair white and generally made me look like a candidate to play Santa Claus this coming Christmas. I’m seriously considering some plastic surgery and maybe even dying my hair after she leaves this Saturday. Let this serve as a warning to others that 19-year-olds hanging out with you 24 hours a day will steal your remaining youth and turn you into an old person prematurely.

Sunset in Sedona, Arizona

Oops, almost missed the sunset while playing with that stupid FaceApp that Brinn brought to my attention. After a couple more photos of the fading light, we made our way over to Cucina Rustica for some very reasonable Italian cooking that would draw us back. Then, under the full moon stained red by the smoke that had been drifting up to Sedona from the fire we passed earlier, we were at our cheapo motel and trying to get to sleep quickly for our 5:30 alarm.

Katharina – Grand Canyon Day 1

Glen Canyon Dam in Page, Arizona

After a two-day pause in activities, so I could catch up on a few things, including getting ready to leave last night for a drive north, we woke in Page, Arizona, this morning. The ultimate destination for the day isn’t this far north, but getting up here put us in a good location for where we are going.

Lake Powell in Page, Arizona

The decision was made by Katharina on exactly the path we’d take and that afforded us the opportunity to drive north up the western shore of Lake Powell. There wouldn’t be a lot of stops on the way as we wanted to spend more of our day in the park.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt entering Utah

With our drive into Utah, Katharina has now visited every state in the four corners region. These states include Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and, of course, Utah.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The meadows on the way into the North Rim of the Grand Canyon have always been beautiful spots to me, though impossible to adequately photograph. The extensive fire damage north of here was not so majestic, though it’s an obvious necessity for a healthy forest. Turns out that the nearby Kaibab Lodge is closed for the season due to an extraordinary amount of snow that damaged their property. Normal snowfall in the area is about 100 inches (254 centimeters), but this winter, they received over 200 inches or more than 5 meters.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Visiting the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park today was very intentional. This time of year is tourist season and over on the other side of the Canyon are likely 100 times more visitors today than over here on the more remote side of the park.

Katharina Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Here we are at the highest point in the Grand Canyon at Point Imperial, which towers over this park at 8,800 feet of elevation or 2,682 meters. For comparison, those who know the Zugspitze in southern Germany, its peak stands at 9,718 feet or 2,962 meters.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Here’s a better view from Point Imperial, which is behind us in the photo above.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

No matter where you look in the Grand Canyon, be it near or far, the view is always spectacular. Even bad weather can’t harm the view, but what can diminish it are photographs. Regardless of how I try to capture images here that have already been taken 100s of millions of times before, there are no photos ever taken that will convey the impression one gets from standing near or moving into the Grand Canyon.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Cape Royal as it looked to us this day. I suppose the best we can do with our photos is to create reminders of what something looked like to us at a particular moment. For those who were here at sunrise or sunset, they saw different skies and shadows that made their visit unique to them.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Through Angels Window, and likely not visible in this lower resolution photo, you get a glimpse of the Colorado River deep below. Those who might be rafting down there today likely passed the Little Colorado River or are still hiking out of the canyon where its milky waters join the larger Colorado. As the crow flies, that stretch of river is about 50 miles south of Lees Ferry, where the majority of river trips begin.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

The cliffrose is in bloom, and if not for Caroline pointing it out, I might have only focused on the bigger picture and forgotten some of the details. I don’t always pay attention to what I say others should do, and I could bet a dollar that my wife wouldn’t disagree with that.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Walking out on Angels Window, it’s easy to forget that below you is a giant hole because on each side of this narrow trail that is less than 6 feet wide (2 meters), the drop-off grabs your attention, letting you pay close attention to the path and nearly nothing else. Well, that is, of course, if you have any fear of heights because this outcropping demands you muster the strength to face a serious threat to the senses that are screaming at you to leave.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Walking out here at Cape Royal, we learn that Kat isn’t feeling her best. Maybe she’s a bit dehydrated, or maybe it’s the fact that she’s nearly 1,000 meters or 3,200 feet higher in elevation than she’s ever been before. Her uncertain situation gives me a bit of panic as I’m not accustomed to a fit 19-year-old having stamina issues, and since she is scheduled to ride a mule into the Canyon with her aunt tomorrow, I’m a bit nervous about the potential of her passing out while on a mule walking down a narrow trail where a fall can easily mean death.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We made our way to the Grand Canyon Campground, stopping at the General Store to have a bite to eat and see how our niece was doing. We’re counting on her situation to be a temporary thing and with her reassurance, we decide to go forward with our plans.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

After checking in at Grand Canyon Lodge, where we scored a rim-side cabin with a partial view of the Canyon (this is not that view), we immediately headed over to the North Kaibab Trail. As Caroline and Katharina were going to be riding down this trail, I wanted to get some impressions of where I might set up to get some photos of them and came to the conclusion that the trail would not be optimal for me to get more than a couple of photos of them. Oh well, we had a nice walk down, probably about a half-mile, but it could have been significantly less as it only took half an hour to get back out.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Looking towards the South Rim about 200 feet (60 meters) west of where our cabin is.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Our dinner reservation wasn’t until 8:15, but we managed to get a table earlier, and with food out of the way, we went out for a canyon rim walk into the sunset.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

This is the Transept Trail that connects the Grand Canyon Lodge area to the North Rim Campground. The easy hike is about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) and is letting us work off dessert.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

By the time we reached the campground, the sun was further down than this, and in the woods, it was nearly completely dark. Lucky us, an almost full moon occasionally lit our way down the Bridle Path that parallels the road back to our cabin. All-in-all the day was packed with experiences and impressions that I hope Kat can look back on with fond memories.

Frankfurt – Saturday

Caroline Wise and Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve seen this movie before. Two sisters get on the train to shop at the open-air market at Konstablerwache.

Frankfurt, Germany

Along the way, they make a detour to Hugendubel bookshop so Caroline can pick up her book of sheet music from Rammstein.

Frankfurt, Germany

Not in the mood for shopping, the forlorn husband turns to something sweet in the form of raspberries to help in dealing with the bitter reality that Frankfurt is disappearing.

Frankfurt, Germany

People go about their business oblivious to the fact that two people among them, while happy being here, must exchange this place for the one that pays their bills and makes amazing vacations possible.

Frankfurt, Germany

The protesters who begged us to stay had no impact on our decision to follow through with our original plans and leave by the 10th, regardless of how our hearts may have thought otherwise.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Caroline tried to assuage the horror of facing the airport and the 11-hour flight home by buying even more Gudrun Sjödén clothes, but I can’t be sure that really did anything other than giving her more stuff to make her look cute.

Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe Papier Kraemer or the library can fight these blues?

Frankfurt, Germany

I know we’ll eat sausages because sausages can heal everything.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

A happy face in the sea of shoppers. By the way, I hope you notice the glitch in the Matrix as somebody behind Caroline is wearing her shirt that was bought years ago at REI, so this cannot just be a coincidence.

Frankfurt, Germany

We are obviously in the Matrix otherwise; how did we just have elderflower pancakes for the first time ever in Croatia, and here we are on our first full day back in Frankfurt, and they are being cooked right here at the market as if the Matrix coded this very moment.

Frankfurt, Germany

The orange of apricots is a happy color and is helping in this transition to America.

John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

When all else fails, there’s always grown-ass-man-sucking-a-pacifier-wearing-green-rubber-gloves-selling-hugs-and-kisses (I opted for hugs) to make me feel better. How much better did I feel for my two Euros? It was so much better that I almost kissed him for free.

Jutta's Apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

We are back at Jutta’s apartment because Jutta loves seeing us.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Jutta also loves sharing a laugh with her daughter, though she half-heartedly complained that I was photographing her clutter. Reality hurts; just ask the two people who are leaving Germany in 48 hours.

Jutta's Apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe you’ve noticed this recurring theme across the breadth of this European vacation, where I tried capturing the place where I sat down to write.

Frankfurt, Germany

Greta Thunberg is one of my heroes; she should be one of yours too.

Frankfurt, Germany

Leaving Jutta’s to meet with the other Engelhardt’s with whom we have a dinner date for the “BEST” green sauce in all of Frankfurt!

Frankfurt, Germany

The Ebbelwoi-Express is a reminder to Caroline and me that we’ve never ridden the “Apple-wine Express” train that meanders through Frankfurt while the passengers get drunk on apple wine and forget where they are prior to stumbling off the train and trying to find their way home in a stupor. We’re making a date to get on the train and ride this iconic beacon of debauchery before we’re dead.

Frankfurt, Germany

Dinner at the Argentinian steak house that won this year’s “Best of Grüne Soße Festival” was great. The pairing of green sauce with steak wasn’t my idea of perfection, but it’s what we asked for. Next time, I go for the traditional presentation with boiled eggs and potatoes.

Frankfurt, Germany

I’ve whined about it before, but it bears whining about again; Frankfurt has too damn many cultural events, while Phoenix, like the desert that surrounds it, is a wasteland. I look at these walls announcing stuff going on over the next 60 days, and I want to pound my head into them, though I’d likely not hurt myself as the layers of posters are dozens thick, making for a nice soft cushioning surface to absorb my frustration, kind of like my wife.